How to lay the floors in a wooden house? Do-it-yourself wooden flooring: wooden flooring designs, do-it-yourself installation Wooden floors in your house

Natural building materials are considered quite relevant in application. In this regard, wooden floors in a private house, being an environmentally friendly product, are used in many suburban buildings.

They are quite popular, as the installation is quite simple and reliable. You can do the work without the services of specialists with your own hands. True, this will take a lot of effort and time. In addition, you will have to carefully study the nuances of their flooring technology.

Choice of option

Such a question sooner or later confronts every owner who plans to reconstruct or build his house from scratch.

First you need to decide how the floor will be installed in a private house.

To date, the following options for flooring wooden floors are most popular:

Located on logs (cuts) on the ground.
Mounted on brick (concrete) pedestals.
Flooring on a cement screed.

The advantage that a wooden floor has in a private house over a concrete counterpart is the environmental friendliness of the material and good thermal insulation performance. The only drawback is the need for well-executed waterproofing. If this is not done, even the most reliable larch or beech floor will require replacement over time.

Of all the known methods of flooring, a concrete base is considered the most durable. But the material is very cold, so it is necessary to lay a wooden covering on top of it.

Construction and wood

Choose wood for the floor without flaws

For example, the system of laying wooden floors in a private house, located on the ground floor, is considered. For this situation, the coating is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements:

lags (cuts);
draft floors;
waterproofing;
thermal insulation;
finishing floors;
finishing flooring.

The structure is located on supporting pillars or beams made of cement mortar or brick. Under the floor there is a subfloor in which communications can be placed, and this free space can also be used to store canned goods, vegetables or other unnecessary things.

If the underground is thought out in advance, and the foundation was well insulated during its installation, the arrangement of a full-fledged basement floor is allowed.

This method of floor installation is considered the most common, because thanks to the subfloor, the space is well ventilated, the wood is always dry, and an optimal microclimate is created on the ground floor. Installation of a wooden floor directly on the ground is allowed only if the level of groundwater penetration has been taken into account.

Failure to comply with these requirements can lead to the formation of mold and mildew in the subfield. Waterproofing in this case, you need to pay special attention.

Material selection

For logs, choose resinous wood

Wooden floors in a private house are constantly exposed to heavy loads, therefore it is recommended to use only durable wood for their installation, and it is also necessary to choose materials that fit the following characteristics:

From what percentage of moisture the fiber has, the service life of the floors will depend. Otherwise, you will have to thoroughly dry the boards and treat them with special compounds that prevent the formation of mold.
The device of the floor in the house is recommended to be performed only from boards and timber that do not have cracks and chips. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the need for a short period of repair of the structure.
Treatment with fire-fighting compounds and antiseptics is required in any case.
The board made of oak, ash and beech has the greatest strength. The disadvantage of these types of wood materials is that they are too fragile and expensive. Therefore, sawn timber from coniferous species is most common: pine, spruce, larch, cedar.

Underground

Don't forget the ventilation holes

When laying the floors with your own hands, you definitely need to think about the fact that the subfloor under them has ventilation holes. If this is not done, the life of the flooring will be significantly reduced.

If windy and snowy winters occur in the region in which the house is located, a ventilation pipe with a visor is installed as a barrier against blowing out the underground space.

To improve the quality of ventilation, you can make an additional window fan. A small grate with a cell size of more than 10 mm will serve as an obstacle to the entry of mice and rats.

Poles or beams

The installation of floors in a private house begins with the installation of base columns. In most cases, these are brick lined or poured concrete structures. As an option, a tree of durable species is used: oak, beech, ash, but their service life rarely exceeds 10 years. For more information about flooring in a house made of timber, see this video:

First you need to choose the location of the columns. To do this, use a tape measure and lacing. The rope is stretched between the walls in the center of the room. With an interval of 80 - 100 cm from each other, notes are made in the ground. These are the locations of the pillars. Further, you can be guided by the following rule: the distance from the columns depends on the thickness of the lag or overcut. The larger the beam, the greater the distance allowed to be made.

To accurately determine the distance between the columns, it is recommended to use the table.

After the installation sites are determined, you can proceed with the installation of the pillars. by the most the best option separate foundations will be poured under them, going to a depth of 50 - 100 cm.

Their height should exceed the ground level by 5 - 10 cm, after which a waterproofing layer is laid and the main element is mounted. The average width depends on the height of the structure and ranges from 40 to 50 cm.

To avoid leveling the floor and facilitate your work, you need to take care of the correct horizontal line at the stage of preparing the base for the posts and monitor its observance during the entire installation process.

Installation of logs (cuts)

Under wooden logs hydroprotection is put

Before you make wooden floors in a private house, you need to lay on the pillars aligned at the same height wooden beam, on which the floorboards will be laid in the future. On the stone surface it is necessary to place hydroprotection, for this it is allowed to use roofing material.

A beam is laid on top, which must be fixed on the basis of the pillars. To do this, you can use metal plates or corners that are attached with anchors, screws or nails. After the cuts are laid and fixed, they must be treated with an antiseptic.

If the horizontal was not observed, the plane is leveled by placing wooden wedges under the timber.

Floorboard installation

Depending on the chosen method of how the floor will be installed in a private house, the procedure for further work may differ significantly. The simplest is the installation of a single floor.

To make a double wooden coating with a heater placed inside, it will take much more time and consumables.

Single

After the cuts are fixed, tongue-and-groove boards 4–5 cm thick are laid on them. Fixing to the beam is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. Having completed the laying, it is allowed to lay the floor covering or paint the erected floor.

Mostly a single floor is mounted for a country summer house, which is used only in warm weather.

Double with insulation

If the floor is being laid for a house in which you will live permanently, it is recommended to use a double floor with an intermediate location of thermal insulation. Such technology will require more time and money, but the result will not keep you waiting long. The floor will be much warmer, and living in the house will be more comfortable. For more information about installing a wooden floor, see this video:

Its installation procedure is as follows:

When installing rough wooden floors in a private house, you need to leave a gap of 2-3 cm from the extreme board to the wall. It is needed for the temperature shift of the wood and will help to avoid possible swelling of the surface.

Wood is considered a natural and environmentally friendly material that requires mandatory care. Despite the superficial complexity of flooring for a private house, even a person who does not have sufficient multifaceted experience in this field can do this work.

Read in the article

How to make a concrete floor without hiring workers

Concrete pavement is used mainly in houses with brick or concrete walls. Its device is made in several steps:

We do markup. Personally, I recommend using a laser level in your work. It must be installed at the bottom of the doorway and mark the future floor level on the walls. To make a marking in the center of the room, we drive nails along the laser line on the wall and pull the ropes.
We proceed to the organization of the thermal insulation layer. To do this, we need to level the ground and clean up debris. We fall asleep thermal insulation starting from the far corner from the door. The best option here would be gravel.
We make a layer of sand, ram and smooth the surface.
We proceed to waterproofing (250 micron polyethylene film is ideal).
Now that we are ready to start pouring, we need to set the beacons at the same level.
From the far wall, we begin to pour concrete between the slats, leveling it with a rule and removing excess.

After the concrete "grabs", we remove the slats and fill the voids with mortar, distributing the material with a grater for plaster. Now, before laying the topcoat, it will be correct to leave the surface covered with polyethylene for 20-30 days. To increase strength, you can moisten the concrete under the film every few days.

How to make a concrete floor in a private house

This option can also be used in a country building. Most often, concrete floors are made in the utility rooms of the house. They are uploaded like this:

A shallow pit (10 cm) is dug in the room.
Its bottom is leveled and compacted with a hand roller.
Sand is poured in a layer of 5 cm. It also needs to be compacted.
A reinforcing mesh is laid on wooden blocks.
Lighthouses are exposed.
The concrete mix is being poured.

It is better to start laying the solution from the corner farthest from the door. It is advisable to do the filling in one go.

The strength of the poured concrete floors will gain no earlier than in two weeks. After this period, you can start walking on them. However, heavy furniture or household appliances it should be brought into the room no earlier than a month later.

How to make a floor in a private house from boards

Floor from boards in one layer. Is the most simple option gender. This design is suitable exclusively for summer buildings or housing in warm countries. If the building design provides that the floor beams are mounted in the walls, then the distance from one beam to another is, most often, too large to immediately lay the boards.

To provide the necessary strength, laying a log is required. If you plan to arrange the floor on top of the supporting pillars, then the placement of the beams can immediately be made as required.

Now, logs are laid on top of the supporting beams, which are set strictly horizontally, for this, wooden spacers and wedges are used. After checking the location of all the logs with a level, they need to be attached to the beams with nails, and then the floorboard should be nailed to them.

Two layer plank floor

For the arrangement of such a floor will require significantly high costs and efforts, but this is offset by a decrease in heat loss. For the device of the subfloor, it is better to use coniferous wood. To save money, you can use a non-edged board or slab.

Most often, thermal insulation is laid in the space from the draft to the finishing floor.

As thermal insulation, you can use expanded clay, a mixture of clay and sawdust or straw. Naturally, you can use modern materials - polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A finishing floor (grooved board) is laid on the thermal insulation.

concrete floor

The concrete floor is equipped in several stages:

First of all, markup is done. Here it is better to use a laser level. After its installation, it will mark the walls in the right places for the future floor. To mark the level in the center of the room, threads are pulled from the marks in the walls.
Next, we do gravel backfilling. This is the insulation in your floor. The earth should be cleared of plants so that they do not germinate through the floor. After that, drive in stakes so that their level does not reach the level of the future floor by 100 mm. Dumping starts from the wall opposite the door. After backfilling the entire area, the gravel is leveled and compacted, and the pegs are removed.

At the next stage, sand is poured, compacted and leveled.
The arrangement of proper waterproofing plays a huge role, the moisture insulation of a concrete floor is usually made with a plastic film, the thickness of which is not less than 250 microns.
Next, we make the filling. First of all, you should set the level of the beacons, which use wooden or metal slats, the distance between which is from 1 to 1.5 m. The upper edge of the slats should be in contact with the stretched threads. Then, the rope marking is removed.
Now the inter-rail space is poured with concrete, from the end of the room to the door. After that, the concrete is leveled using the rule.

After the "seizure" of the concrete, it is necessary to dismantle the rails, and fill the voids with a solution. To level the mortar in the cracks, a “grater” is used for plastering. After that, the floor is covered with plastic wrap for a month. It is better to periodically moisten the concrete. This will enable the concrete to gain maximum strength.

Warming on the joists

If the house is old, then before insulating the floor in it, it is often necessary to dismantle the ceiling and go deep into the ground.

After that, a rough, most often wooden coating is laid. A layer of waterproofing is mounted on top of it: it can be mastics or roll materials. They will protect the insulation and logs from moisture.

Then logs (boards or wooden bars) are mounted on the subfloor with waterproofing. All wooden elements must first be treated with an antiseptic.

Installation of mineral wool

To insulate wooden structures, it is better to use mineral wool (it does not burn). If the material is in a roll, then it is unrolled as a single sheet, and stacked without first cutting it into pieces.

Fix cotton wool with a stapler. Mats or slabs are tightly laid in the gaps between the lags.

Vapor barrier and flooring

A layer of vapor barrier is laid on the insulation. It can be a dense polyethylene film or professional membranes.

Then the finishing floor is mounted, leaving a ventilation gap between it and the insulation. Under it, experts recommend installing a fine-mesh metal mesh, it will not allow rodents to enter the house.

Warming the floor in your own home is a job that one person can handle. The main thing at the same time is to choose the most suitable and high-quality insulation and observe the technology of thermal insulation.

Floors. Laminate.Linoleum BlogStroiki

From the message it is not entirely clear whether the floor will be laid on the ground or a concrete base is being made for the installation of plank floors. In addition, it is not known what the basement of the building is.

At least one thing is clear that in wet soils it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer, which can be made of crumpled clay, concrete, plastic film or other materials, and the level of the floor surface should not be lower than the level of the sidewalk.

When installing a new concrete floor on the ground, it is necessary to perform the following measures - to level the base and prepare it. However, first of all, the upper surface of the soil should be cleaned of debris.
Leveling the base can be done with an optical or laser level, and at home with the usual level. The purpose of this operation is to determine the relief of the base, the zero mark and the level of the floor surface.

When preparing the base, it is necessary to dig a trench with a depth of 500-1000 mm, depending on the types of base soils, the degree of their freezing, the height of the rise of groundwater. Then the bottom should be well tamped to avoid further cracking of the floor due to subsidence of the base. After ramming on the ground with an overlap on the walls of the trench, geotextiles are spread and a sand cushion is poured, the thickness of the layer of which also depends on the condition of the base soils and ranges from 500 to 1000 mm. The sand cushion also needs to be compacted periodically by wetting. On top of the sand cushion, a backfill is made of gravel or crushed stone with a layer thickness of 100-150 mm, which is then tamped into the sand.

After the sand cushion with a layer of crushed stone is rammed, the waterproofing is laid. Most often it is made from rolled bituminous waterproofing materials or polymer membranes with an overlap on the walls. If in this area high level groundwater, then hot bitumen can be additionally poured over a layer of crushed stone with a layer thickness of approximately 20 mm. If there is no moisture in the soil or its suction for the floor structure is not critical, it is enough to make an underlying layer of polyethylene film.

For the installation of a cement-sand screed, it is best to use concrete not lower than M300, while the difference in the thickness of the concrete screed should not exceed 30-50 mm. The recommended thickness of the concrete floor on a compacted soil base is at least 100 mm, the standard reinforcement option is a road mesh. Polymer impregnation can be used to prevent the formation of concrete dust and harden the concrete surface.

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How to properly care

Caring for the floor should be based on the rules for caring for the material of its finish.

The floor is one of the main elements of the interior, so it is important to adhere to the established requirements when choosing materials for the floor. Coverage is selected depending on the purpose of the room.

For example, linoleum does not withstand heavy loads, and parquet does not like moisture.

The materials used for finishing coating can be classified different ways: hard and soft, stone and wood, synthetic and natural. Each type of material has its own characteristics of laying and methods of care.

Rigid materials include tile and stone. They are durable, not afraid of moisture. Modern technologies allow laying tiled floors not only in the bathroom and kitchen, as before, but also in other rooms. If desired, the tile can be easily replaced with another one. Tiles can be made from natural stone: marble, granite, and if financial opportunities allow, then from malachite, jasper, rhodonite.

Synthetic materials, such as, for example, vinyl, concrete, are practical, but are afraid of moisture, temperature fluctuations, as well as chemical and mechanical influences. Floor rubber is a mixture of cement, cork, rubber, marble chips and chalk. It is flexible, durable, resistant to mechanical stress and temperature changes.

Natural, oddly enough, is linoleum. It is made by applying a hot mixture containing resin, beeswax and linseed oil to a fabric base. Natural linoleum is an expensive, but very effective material.

The most common surface is wood. Wood flooring is made from various breeds wood. The most durable and very expensive is oak flooring. Maple, beech, elm, ash, linden, birch, cherry, pine are also used. Modern wooden material is a laminate, which is represented by a multilayer structure. He has upper layer made of wood. Laminate flooring is easy to install, inexpensive, and outwardly looks like natural wood.

No less common now and carpet. Carpeting is a pile fixed on a substrate. Carpet can be either synthetic, consisting of nylon or acrylic, or natural, made of silk or wool. It is easy to lay it on, and if necessary, replace it.

In modern conditions, it is important not only to properly cover the floors suitable coating but also know how to take care of it. Even the most durable materials are sometimes susceptible to certain cleaning products.

If the coating has a smooth surface, then it can be washed: moistened with water small plot floor, wipe it dry immediately.

Wooden surfaces are wiped with warm water with the addition of a neutral agent, moving in the direction in which the parquet or floorboards are laid. It is not necessary to wet the surface abundantly, especially if it is lined with parquet. He might get pissed off about it. Instead of soap, it is better to use a little vinegar. In this case, there will be no streaks on the surface. In addition, vinegar perfectly refreshes the color of a wooden coating.

The floor of stone, slate, ceramics is treated with a solution of warm water and a neutral agent. For unglazed tiles, the detergent is replaced with acetic acid. It will remove stains from the surface and make it evenly, subduedly shine. The slate floor is periodically rubbed with citrus oils. Marble coating is simply moistened and wiped thoroughly. Marble does not tolerate waxes and oils. He spoils them.

Linoleum flooring should not be heavily wetted. After treatment with a solution of warm water with a neutral agent, it is wiped dry and then rubbed with wax.

Vinyl and synthetic floors are perhaps the easiest to maintain. Care consists in washing with water using universal detergents and rinsing with clean water. It is necessary to monitor the composition of detergents: they should not contain solvents, otherwise the surface will become porous and rough to the touch.

Carpets should be vacuumed at least twice a week and, if the material permits, washed twice a year with a special shampoo. If the cover is made of natural materials, and you can’t wash it with water, once a month it is treated with a special dry powder according to the following scheme:

Clean the surface with a vacuum cleaner.
Scatter the powder over the entire area
Vacuum again after two hours.

quality materials, modern technologies And proper care- these are the three components of a good sex.

For information on how to make a warm floor in a house without errors, see the following video.

materials

The arrangement of floors in a private house involves the use of substances that perfectly support the microclimate inside the house.

For the construction of such structures, several groups of materials are used:

Lumber. This group of substances is used during the construction of lag-based floors. The most popular products are wooden blocks, board of various thicknesses, sawdust (heat insulator). This group includes plywood, OSB and other boards based on wood products.
insulating materials. This group is also very wide and includes substances for arranging hydro, steam and thermal insulation. Products of this type include rolled materials (film, roofing material, all types of mineral wool), as well as bulk structures (expanded clay, sand, crushed stone, etc.). Many of these substances do not form a separate layer. They are meant to cover and isolate other elements of the system.
Decorative trim. Such coatings also come in several types. The most common are solid board, ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, etc.

All of them allow you to create universal floor coverings with various technical and decorative properties. Some of them can only be used under certain conditions.

For the organization of underfloor heating, concrete floors are suitable, which tolerate changes in temperature and humidity well.

General principles for wooden floors

Directly sexual boards are always laid on logs, but the logs themselves can be laid both on a concrete or even earthen base, and on supports - usually these are brick, wooden or metal poles. Rarely, but still, a technology is used in which the ends of the log are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and are operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, it is very difficult to block wide spans - logs of a very large cross section and weight are required, and it is almost impossible to install them correctly alone ...

Installation of wooden floors concrete base practically no different from the arrangement of floors in an apartment with ceilings made of reinforced concrete slabs. Much more difficult is the case with floor installation on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.

Floating screed on the floor in a private house differences from the floor on the ground

According to the process of its creation, a concrete screed on interfloor ceilings does not differ significantly from what was described in the previous section of the article. But there are a few nuances that you need to be aware of.

The thickness of the cushion under the concrete screed is significantly reduced - unlike floors on the ground, there is no need to compensate for heaving of the soil and retain water from the soil. In the floors of interfloor ceilings, the pillow plays the role of an elastic foundation through which the loads from the screed are transferred to the supporting structures of the house.

Floating screed on the floor in a private house

At the same time, the need for insulation disappears - when creating a screed on interfloor ceilings, the owner of a private house does not have the task of reducing heat energy losses.
Particular attention should be paid to the brand of concrete being mixed - for floors where a simple finish and a minimum of loads are expected, it should be at least M50. And with a more modern and expensive finish or the presence of a large number of furniture and people in the room, it is better to use material of the M150 brand and higher.
A damper in the form of a silicone tape is required between the walls and the concrete screed - in this case, you will not have problems due to the difference in the “behavior” of materials under conditions of temperature and humidity changes.
Before starting work on the arrangement of the concrete floor on the floors, it is necessary to calculate the allowable load and the total mass of the structure.

Another example of a floor pie

When creating a concrete floor in your cottage on your own, remember that only strict adherence to technologies and standards will provide you with a reliable and strong coating that will be able to last for decades.

We select the coating for the kitchen

The floors in the kitchen - both in a private house and in an apartment - are subjected to increased loads. Therefore, they must be made as resistant as possible to moisture and hot steam, to abrasion and various mechanical damage. What coverage do we recommend? There are several options, each with its own advantages and disadvantages:

cork floors, which came into fashion just a few years ago. Of the advantages, one can single out resistance to almost any aggressive influences and durability. The main disadvantage is the rapid contamination in the cooking area and the difficulty in care;
tile. The usual tile, which was used a couple of decades ago, is most likely not suitable for the kitchen, as it is too susceptible to mechanical stress. But you can easily replace it with stone tiles, which have incredible strength and resistance to moisture. The only drawback is to mention only high cost. However, stone floors will pay off over many years of operation;
Another option for a kitchen in a private house is porcelain stoneware. This material is much cheaper than natural stone, however, in terms of its operational properties, it is practically in no way inferior to it;
linoleum. The best choice if you want to equip inexpensive floors in the kitchen in a private house. It can withstand heavy loads, but is unlikely to withstand exposure to hot steam or dripping hot fat. However, you can replace the damaged section at any time - low price allows you to do this quite often;
the laminate mentioned above is also suitable for the kitchen. But it is best to choose a special moisture-resistant material that repels water and does not collapse under prolonged exposure.

What to make floors in technical rooms? The main requirement for them in a private house is the same water resistance, abrasion resistance and strength. If we consider the numerous tips published on the Web, we can recommend using special collections for the bathroom and bathroom. ceramic plate or porcelain stoneware. Such materials withstand almost any impact and are ready to serve you for many years.

Warming technology

To lay the heat insulator, it is necessary to prepare the following materials: insulation in the required amount, film (with a density of at least 200 microns), cement, sand, water, beacons, reinforcing mesh.

The foam insulation process consists of several stages.

Preparation

Before that foam plastic with your own hands, it is necessary to remove excess soil to a thickness of 10-15 cm, or, conversely, make sand and gravel backing the same amount below the intended floor.

The surface must be leveled.

waterproofing layer

A layer of waterproofing is created from dense oilcloth: it will delay ground water, will prevent an increase in the level of humidity and the occurrence of condensation.

Then you need to install beacons.

Rough screed and laying insulation

After that, a cement screed 40 mm thick is poured.

Styrofoam plates are laid in a checkerboard pattern on the solution, tightly fitting to each other. Insulation will not allow heat to escape and will not allow cold to penetrate into the house. Then take a break for 2 days, allowing the screed to dry.

fine finish

The final stage of work is a finishing screed. To create a flat surface, beacons must be attached to the heat insulator.

Then the entire structure is poured cement mortar, the layer thickness is approximately 70 mm. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it, which will prevent the screed from cracking and falling apart.
The surfaces are allowed to dry, after which they are cleaned of sags and leveled.

Expanded clay insulation

If expanded clay is used as a heater, then you need to carefully calculate the thickness of the heat-insulating layer and the size of the screed, since the floors in a private house are under heavy loads.
Experts recommend using expanded clay of different sizes, then the insulating layer will be more dense.

The whole process of work is similar to that described above. A layer of expanded clay with a thickness of at least 10 cm is poured over a rough screed. When laying, there should not be a slope, the layer must be even, otherwise the floor insulation will not be reliable. A control measurement of the distance between the beacons and the backfill can be carried out using a special template or tape measure.

Before pouring the finishing screed, expanded clay is treated with cement milk: this will speed up the setting of the insulation, making it more durable. Reinforcing mesh, laid on top, will save the surface from movement, cracking.

The floor cannot be used for a week. The entire structure will reach its final strength in about a month. After that, you can lay the decorative floor covering.

Concrete base insulation

For floors in which the floor is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, it is better to use rigid mineral wool slabs as a heater.

To make this design even warmer and more durable, you can use a concrete screed, poured over a heat insulator. The mineral wool must first be covered with a mounting grid.

Floor covering for the living room

Living room in country house most often used for its intended purpose - for receiving guests or for joint recreation of all family members

In any case, this is the face of your home, so it is important to apply here only the most quality materials with high aesthetic properties.

An example is the good old wooden parquet, which, when correct styling and appropriate care looks just great

In order not to make a mistake in choosing, be sure to pay attention to the types of wood from which the material is made, as well as to the varnish coating, which can give the parquet a unique shine.

Which ones to choose

The preference given to one or another design depends on the purpose of the building. In the summer kitchen or in the country, which are operated in the summer, there is no need to create complex structures. In this case, the boards are laid on the logs. Of course, such a floor will not keep warm.

In a capital house used for living all year round, it is better to use more massive structures.

If the house does not have a basement, then the most budgetary and less difficult to implement is the installation of the floor of the first floor on the ground. In this case, two options are possible: either they use a concrete base (the so-called screed), or they mount multilayer wooden floors on logs.

The way the floor will be on the second floor is directly dependent on the method of laying floors between floors. With wooden bases, beams and logs are used. If the floors are reinforced concrete, then only logs are used. The floor on the second floor, as well as on the first floor, can be on beams, on logs, on concrete slabs.

If the building has a basement or cellar, then the floor in it must also comply with certain standards. Due to the proximity of the earth, it should be as insulated and stable as possible. The material is chosen depending on the further purpose of operating the premises: if a living room is planned in the basement, then wood is preferred, if a workshop is created, then a concrete screed will be appropriate, and if a cellar is equipped in which stocks will be stored for the winter, then there is nothing better than clay.

In order to avoid unpleasant surprises, when constructing a cellar, it will not be superfluous to find out the depth of groundwater.

Dry screed in the house work plan

Such a coating, as I said, attracts with its quick installation. It can be equipped in just one day, even without outside help. The basis is usually used materials such as slag, expanded clay or silica sand. Due to their free-flowing structure, they are perfectly distributed over the surface and almost do not shrink. Plus, such "dry" floors contribute to the preservation of heat in the house.

Source: http://sdelalremont.ru

We will install a dry screed according to such a simple scheme:

We prepare and tamp the base, cover it with waterproofing.
We install wooden bulkhead boards on the waterproofing layer at a distance of 60–80 cm. We mount beacons, thanks to which our screed will be uniform.
We scatter the “dry” floor and level it with the rule.
We cover the surface with plywood plates starting from the door and moving deeper into the room.
We close the joints of plywood and walls with sealant.
Our base is ready for finishing work.

Now, knowing all the nuances of installing a wooden, concrete and “dry” floor, you can decide which coating is best to make. That's all for me, subscribe to our updates on social networks and share with your friends! Bye!

4 Secrets of underfloor heating

The increasing popularity is gained by a warm water floor. It can serve as the basis for heating or maintain comfortable living conditions. It depends on the overall heat loss, the climate in the area, and the design features of a private house. They are not suitable for wooden flooring, as wood does not conduct heat well. The best option is a cement screed. A concrete floor with water heating is used for the first, basement floors, if the base is a sand cushion.

Do-it-yourself installation of underfloor heating begins with the preparation of the base, it must be even without recesses and protrusions. Permissible difference value - 5 mm. If defects in height or depth exceed 1-2 cm, a leveling layer of fine gravel with a grain size of not more than 5 mm is poured.

The device of warm floors is carried out according to two methods: a snail and a spiral. In option 1, the entire surface is evenly heated. Thanks to the spiral, better heating is provided in colder areas. Therefore, the first hot branches are mounted in this zone. According to the drawing of the laying scheme, the required length of the pipes is calculated.

For a thermal floor only a solid pipe is used. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, several heating circuits are mounted, each of which should not exceed 100 m2, so that there is enough pressure to circulate the coolant.

It is better to use metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. For thermal insulation, a heater with a thickness of at least 5 cm is laid on the base. If the base is soil, or the floor below is a cold room, the insulating layer is made 10 cm. To reduce heat loss, a metallized film is laid over the heat insulator, which acts as a reflective screen. It also requires protection, so polyethylene (75-100 microns) is laid on top. The strips of the film are overlapped, fastening the seams with construction tape.

Pipes are fixed with fasteners: metal mesh, slats, plastic brackets. Filling is carried out after the laying is completed, the connection to the collectors is made, and the system is filled with a coolant at a pressure of 4 bar. A damper tape is laid along the perimeter to compensate for expansion, to insulate the floor from walls, and to eliminate cold bridges through which heat is lost.

Before concreting, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on top of the pipes, if strips and brackets were used as fasteners. A concrete screed is made from 5 to 10 cm, there must be at least 3 cm of solution above the pipe. With insufficient thickness, cracking of the surface is possible, with an excess, heat loss is inevitable. While the concrete sets, it is covered with plastic wrap to maintain normal humidity. Completely screed freezes 28 days.

Tools you need to create your own concrete floor

Before considering step by step instructions on arranging a concrete mortar coating, we will present a list of tools that the master will need to complete this work.

Table. Concrete floor in a country house - tools for work.

Tool name	What is it used for
Concrete mixer	Mixing concrete from the main components.
	Leveling of soil, sand and gravel, mixing of concrete, excavation of earth for a floor pit on the ground floor.
	Storage and handling of cement and other concrete components.
rammer	Soil compaction, as well as sand and gravel pads to create reliable support concrete slab.
	Control of the position of beacons, drawing markings before starting work on arranging the concrete floor.
	Giving smoothness and evenness to the newly formed concrete screed.
	Working with small volumes of mortar, initial leveling of concrete for floor screed.
Needle roller	Elimination of small cavities with air in the thickness of uncured concrete screed.
construction wheelbarrow	Transportation of sand, cement and other bulk building materials.
Metal brush	Cleaning seized concrete from "cement milk".

Important! When working with floors of a large area, it is more advisable not to mix all the concrete yourself, but to order it together with a mixer truck - the time savings will cover the increased costs. .

How to choose lags

Logs - bars of rectangular section, laid parallel to each other as the basis of the floor. Hardwood, coniferous wood is used. The main selection criterion is durability. Do not use material with signs of rotting that has begun. The presence of a large number of knots is not scary. For a lag of a country house, a beam with a size of 50x150, 100x150 mm is suitable. How more room, the greater the requirements for the strength of the base. Sometimes it is enough to lay paired boards on the edge.

How to choose lags

The location and height of the lag is selected.

The height of the log should provide a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finished floor. The dimensions of the lumber selected as the floor frame and the thickness of the insulation must match. For example, with a log height of 150 mm, it is not always possible to lay a heater 100 mm high. It should be noted that a few centimeters will go under the subfloor board and the cranial bar. The lag can be increased in height with an additional rail.

Wooden floor options

Concrete or stone varieties of the floor in a private house today are a rarity. Even with powerful thermal insulation, it is almost impossible to turn them into truly warm floors in a private house, so most owners prefer to build a wooden floor in a private house with their own hands. When properly cared for, floors wooden planks can stand for several decades, but still they need to be periodically repaired, updated and restored.

Traditionally, a warm version of the floor in a private household can be done in three ways:

Laying a classic floor from boards, with mineral wool insulation or expanded clay backfill;
Flooring from boards on log beams laid on a concrete pie, with thermal insulation from expanded polystyrene;
Make laying of log beams on columnar supports.

In the first two cases, fertile soil is replaced by a compacted layer of gravel and sand, sealed with roofing material sheets. If the floor insulation in a private room is made with expanded clay backfill, then, in addition to the main floor, it is necessary to lay a rough base of boards. On top of the backfill, you need to make a film vapor barrier, and then lay the new floor from a sanded board.

In the second case, the underfloor heating is laid on the logs, based on a double concrete screed, insulated with EPPS and reinforced with a reinforcing mesh. Lag beams can be supported on the basement of the walls or on threaded studs.

Both options are quite effective, but today they are considered too expensive, since a system of studs with a concrete cushion and massive hanging logs will obviously cost a decent amount. Today, flooring is done in this way in a relatively small private room, with an area of 10-15m2. How to make a warm floor in a private house in an affordable way?

The most modern and easiest to assemble is the installation of a floor from boards on columnar supports. When choosing a method for how to properly make a floor in a private house, one has to take into account the complexity, cost of installation and the possibility of repairing a wooden floor in a private house in the future. Installing load-bearing beams on columnar supports allows you to cheaply and safely assemble the floor in a private house of almost any size. It is possible to repair floors on poles within one day, but it is not so easy to repair studs or a long massive beam of suspended logs.

A concrete pad under the joists allows you to dramatically reduce humidity and heat loss in a private house. Initially, it will be necessary to backfill with crushed stone and sand, lay a waterproofing film, a layer of insulation, and close it with a layer of concrete, 40-50 mm thick. Experts recommend making a screed if the ground is soft and there is a danger of rodents entering the underground.

Thermal insulation materials advantages and disadvantages

Most often, owners of private houses insulate the floors with expanded clay, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The popularity of these materials is explained not only by their quite democratic cost, but also by numerous other advantages.

Today, the building materials market offers a modern one, which also has many advantages, but is distinguished by a high price.

Expanded clay

It is a granular material based on clay. Due to its finely porous structure, it is very light. Its main advantage is that when moisture accumulates, it does not lose its insulating properties. The undoubted advantages of expanded clay include the following:

good thermal conductivity;
resistance to temperature changes;
fire resistance;
strength;
durability (extends the life of wooden floors up to 50 years);
environmental friendliness;
ease of installation.

For laying such a heat insulator, serious vapor and waterproofing is not required.

The disadvantage is that the expanded clay insulating layer must be at least 10 cm, and preferably even more than 50 cm. Otherwise, the degree of insulation will be insufficient.

Styrofoam

This is one of the most popular heat insulators used in private construction. High heat and sound insulation are the main advantages of this material. Styrofoam is obtained from various raw materials, so it may differ in density. The higher this indicator, the lower the level of thermal insulation and the higher the resistance to mechanical stress.

For the floor, a material with a low density is chosen, since it is protected from above by a rough and finishing coating. The foam is durable. Various microorganisms will not appear in it. Insulation of the floor in a private house with foam plastic is a simple process.

The disadvantages of polystyrene include a high fire hazard, as a result of combustion, it exudes poisonous smoke, and the “love” of rodents (they cause significant harm to the insulation).

Mineral wool

Over the past decades, this material has become a traditional insulation for walls, ceilings, floors. It is produced in the form of plates, mats or rolls. With proper installation, mineral wool will last at least 30 years. It is not afraid of temperature changes, it is completely fireproof. Low thermal conductivity, good sound insulation, ease of installation are the main advantages of mineral wool.

The disadvantage is vapor permeability. A prerequisite for the installation of this insulation is high-quality waterproofing. Otherwise, over time, the mineral wool will become saturated with condensate, accumulate moisture and quickly lose its heat-insulating properties.

Also, when using this material, you need to use protection against rodents, which are not averse to settling in it.

Penoplex

The demand for this material in the Russian building materials market is high. Penoplex is a foamed polystyrene produced by extrusion of general purpose polystyrene. During the manufacturing process, airtight cells are formed in it; after solidification, the material acquires a homogeneous structure.

It is distinguished by durability, strength, ease of installation. Such quality as frost resistance allows using it in the most severe climatic conditions. Penoplex has a low thermal conductivity: 5 cm of insulation replace brickwork 1.5 m thick. Its advantages include a low level of moisture absorption and vapor permeability.

Weaknesses: afraid high temperatures(melts), high cost, "love" of rodents.

When deciding how to insulate the floor in a private house, which insulation to choose for this, experts recommend focusing on basic parameters materials present on the labels, in the characteristics on the packaging:

combustibility coefficient (marking G1 - the material does not burn without direct fire);
water absorption coefficient (indicated as a percentage, the lower, the less water the insulation absorbs and better retains its insulating qualities);
thermal conductivity coefficient (a material with a lower index better insulates the floor);
the density indicator will indicate how much the heat insulator will make the floor structure heavier (the higher this coefficient, the more durable the subfloor and floors should be).

What are the draft floors in wooden houses

According to the lags. Most often used as a base for finishing floor coverings with low load-bearing performance: laminate floors, linoleum, parquet board or block parquet. Draft floors in these cases perceive loads and evenly distribute them over the floor area. Sometimes such floors are called the base, this name is used by inexperienced builders, but it has the right to life.

Under the lags. In the lower part of the lag, cranial bars are fixed, they serve as the basis for attaching the subfloor, insulation, and vapor and waterproofing.

Dry subfloor device

On load-bearing beams. In our opinion, the most good option, but it needs to be thought through at the design stage wooden house. Why do we think so?

Bearing beams - photo

The distance between the floor beams is ≈ 1–1.2 meters, specific values and thickness values are calculated depending on the load. Then logs are placed on the floor beams with a distance of 40–60 cm. Why do double work, it is much more expedient to install floor beams a little more often, while reducing their size. The same beams will perform the function of the lag. What will be the result? Significant material savings.

Floor beams

If we calculate the amount of timber for beams and logs in the traditional construction option, then the second option makes it possible to achieve savings of at least 40%. At modern prices for natural high-quality (and for these works lumber is used only from the very High Quality) in cash transfers, the savings amount to significant amounts. Another undoubted plus is the increase in the height of the interior, with a lag height of within ten centimeters, this is a noticeable increase.

Distance between beams

Any low-quality materials can be used for the subfloor, unless it serves as the basis for the installation of finishing floor coverings. It can be either pieces of boards, OSB sheets, plywood or chipboard, or unedged boards. The thickness of the materials does not matter; boards or slabs with a thickness of one to three centimeters can be used on the same floor. It will be laid on thermal insulation materials, for them, slight differences in the height of the base are not critical. Of course, unedged boards should definitely be sanded, wood pests breed under the bark.

Sub floor elements

The second important point for all subfloors is protection against negative impact moisture. Currently, there are quite effective antiseptics in the implementation, with which you need to soak the boards at least twice.

Fire bioprotection of wood

Important. Before impregnation, lumber must be dried.

The lower the relative humidity, the more they will absorb antiseptics, the more reliable the protection.

No antiseptic - not a problem. Just oil the boards, the effect will be exactly the same. Handle the ends of the boards for the subfloor with particular care. An inattentive attitude to the ends is one of the main mistakes of inexperienced builders. They first lay the cut boards on the supporting elements, and then they process two surfaces with a brush, they forget about the ends. The ends of the wood absorb the largest amount of moisture, in this place all the capillaries of the wood are open.

Wood processing with drying oil

And the last. Keep in mind that no antiseptics will help if the underground of a wooden house does not have effective natural ventilation. The draft floor will sooner or later lose its original properties. You will have to change not only it, but also the entire floor covering.

If you are afraid of penetration through the vents of rodents, put metal bars on them. If it seems to you that in winter the floor in the rooms on the ground floor is very cold due to the air (and this can be), then close them for a cold period of time. But be sure to open all the vents with warming. Ventilation, by the way, is a prerequisite for the durability of the lower rims of the log house.

The device of products in the foundation

Practical advice. Using smoke or a lighter, check the effectiveness of the products. Bring open fire to the holes and observe how and with what force the flame reacts to the air currents. Weak air movement - take Urgent measures to improve ventilation efficiency.

Correct airflow position

Profitability of stacked rough foundations

floors in wooden house

We hope you understand how to make floors in the house, how to install a double floor base, and carry out high-quality insulation. Of course, the installation of a subfloor significantly increases the cost of work, but these expenses will definitely pay off over time. Practice shows that such insulation helps to save 30% on space heating in winter period. And this is a significant contribution to family budget and a good argument in favor of the described version of the boardwalk.

And one more positive moment. A well-made double base increases the life of the finish coating. Therefore, we make floors in a wooden house according to the described scheme. Traditional and simple technology allows you to do all the work yourself. Compared with other analogues (concrete screed, for example), the cost of the described wooden structure will be much less.

In fairness, it is worth talking about the shortcomings of the black wooden floor:

Firstly, due to the rigidity of the structure, it dampens impact noise very poorly.
Secondly, double flooring cannot be used in rooms with high humidity (in baths, steam rooms, showers).

Installation of wooden floors

When building a private house, many people prefer to make the floor out of wood. Such a desire to have high-quality wooden flooring underfoot is explained by the desire to use environmentally friendly materials, which include wood. In addition to high environmental friendliness, such a floor has a number of other advantages.

Wooden floors are easy to install and easy to repair during operation. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the material, such a floor will keep heat inside the house without releasing it outside. Plank flooring made of quality wood is characterized by a long service life and an attractive "natural" appearance.

To make a floor in a private house, you need to choose the right wood. The choice of starting materials should be based on the design features of the structure itself. The device of the floor in a country house must necessarily provide for the presence of a subfloor that acts as an air gap. If such a layer is absent, then the wooden floor will quickly become unusable due to moisture.

In addition, for a good floor, it is important to have all the layers of the structure, including logs, rough flooring, hydro and thermal insulation, and a finishing coating.

The floor in a private house is subjected to significant mechanical stress, so for its construction it is required to choose wood with good technological characteristics. The boards must be well dried, the recommended moisture content is no more than 12%. Any chips and cracks on the surface of the material are not allowed. Experts recommend giving preference to coniferous wood, suitable for pine, larch, fir, cedar. To increase the life of the future floor, all boards must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

The installation of a wooden floor begins with the determination of places for the supporting pillars and their installation. The fertile layer of soil around the entire perimeter of the house is removed and removed, gravel is poured in its place, and sand is placed on top of it. Layers of gravel and sand must be well compacted. Waterproofing material is laid on the ends of the supporting pillars, most often ordinary roofing material is used for these purposes.

Filling with gravel.

Next, we make beams that need to be fixed on poles metal corners. Floors in a private house are best done with double insulation. Experts suggest first laying plywood sheets on the sides of the beams, and then placing mineral wool or other insulating material on them.

When the insulation layer is ready, you can start laying the rough coating. The boards of this layer should fit well to each other; ordinary self-tapping screws can be used as their fastening to the beams. It is better to leave some distance between the flooring and the walls of the house: a gap of 1.5 cm can be considered the norm for this part of the floor. These gaps provide ventilation for the entire floor structure and protect the walls from expansion of the floorboards when they dry out.

A layer of vapor barrier made of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid over the subfloor. The joints of individual pieces of film must be glued with adhesive tape, and the edges should be wrapped on the walls to a height of about 20 cm - to the height of the finish coating. When the film is laid and fixed, you can proceed to the assembly of the finished floor.

The finished floor is assembled from solid boards or plywood sheets. Plywood sheets are easier to attach, but in the end they do not look very attractive. Therefore, if you want to leave wooden floors in your house, then it is best to immediately collect the finish coating from a tongue-and-groove board, and if you plan to close it decorative material- it is enough to fix the plywood sheets. Plank floors after assembling the finished floor must be varnished, which will not only protect the material from external influences of a mechanical and chemical nature, but also emphasize the decorative qualities of natural wood.

Concrete floor

The device of such a floor is relevant where the walls of the house are expelled from brick or cinder block

The device of such a floor is relevant where the walls of the house are made of brick or cinder block.

In a private house around the entire perimeter (living rooms, kitchen and utility rooms), soil 5 cm thick is removed. The base is well leveled and rammed, slightly moistened with water.
A layer of sand is poured on top, which is also slightly moistened and rammed. Let the cake layers dry.
Now you can pour a rough screed mixed with gravel or expanded clay instead of sand. It is poured on the sand and leveled well. Let dry completely.
A waterproofing layer is laid on the rough screed. It is better if it is roofing material, but 250 micron oilcloth can also be used. All joints are connected with adhesive tape, and the edges of the coating are thrown onto the walls of the foundation.
To insulate the floor in all rooms, including the kitchen, it is necessary to lay a heater (expanded clay or extruded polystyrene foam).
After this layer of the cake, reinforcement is laid on the floor and a finishing screed device is made. It is leveled according to the installed beacons and dried for at least a month.

Important: on a screed arranged in this way in a cottage, you can make any floors from wooden boards to laminated panels. .

Bulk coating in a private house

Next, let's see how to make a floor in a private house using a special self-leveling compound. This method of coating in suburban buildings has recently become very popular. Making such a floor is easier than even concrete. In addition, bulk coatings, in contrast to cement screeds, can be very beautiful.

So, how to make a filler floor in a private house correctly. This operation is performed as follows:

A concrete base is being made. The method of filling it is no different from the above.
The surface of the finished screed is dedusted. If the concrete floor has been poured for a long time, it will most likely need to be corrected.
Surface priming is in progress.
Using a perforator, the bulk mixture is diluted with water.
The solution is applied to the primed base in small portions and carefully leveled.
Immediately after pouring each portion, the solution must be passed with a spiked roller to remove bubbles.

The finished floor should be covered with plastic wrap. In this case, he will gain strength better.

As you can see, using a self-levelling compound is a very good answer to the question of how to make a floor in a private house. A photo of such a coating with a 3D pattern, presented a little below, clearly demonstrates its attractiveness and reliability. You can make such a coating, including with your own hands.

Wood flooring

A wooden floor for creating a coating in private homes is chosen quite often. This is due to its environmental friendliness. Many people want to have a quality wood flooring. Such floors have a number of significant advantages.

With careful processing, wooden flooring can last for decades without changing its appearance and physical characteristics. In addition, wooden floors have high thermal insulation properties. They create comfort in the house. In addition, the installation of wooden flooring is done by hand. For work, you will need to prepare a standard set of tools.

Before you make a floor in a private house, you should take care of choosing the type of wood. It should be selected according to the type of building. The floor is arranged from several layers. It must have thermal and waterproofing. The subfloor acts as an air gap. Due to it, wooden elements will not be exposed to moisture. They will not develop mold or fungus.

The floor covering is constantly under mechanical stress during operation. That is why the wood that will be chosen for the floor must have good technical performance. Boards must be dried before coating. The moisture content of wooden elements should not exceed 12%.

It is also worth visually inspecting the elements of the future floor. They should not have chips or cracks. Otherwise, it may affect the quality of the coating. Also, before laying, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will extend the life of such products.

Installation of a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

First you need to determine the location of the supports. In place of the removed fertile soil gravel should be covered. Sand falls on top. This is how the pillow is made. Each layer should be carefully compacted. The ends of the support poles turn around waterproofing material. Usually, roofing material is used for this purpose.
After that, the beams should be laid. And they are attached to the supports with the help of corners and self-tapping screws. Floors in a country house should be carefully insulated. Professional builders recommend laying plywood sheets before installing the insulation. Commonly used as insulation material mineral wool.
When the insulation layer is laid, you can begin the rough flooring. Boards should be chosen in such a way that they fit snugly against each other. Self-tapping screws are used to connect them to the beams. About 1.5 cm is left between the subfloor and the walls. Such gaps make it possible to exclude structural distortions during thermal expansion.
A vapor barrier is laid on top of the subfloor. It usually has a thickness of 200 microns. The joints of the canvas are glued with construction tape. The edges of the vapor barrier are wound onto the walls to a height of 20 cm. After laying the film, you should start laying the finish coat.

Solid wood boards are used for the finishing floor. Sheets of plywood can also be used. They are much easier to attach. However, they appearance leaves much to be desired. For this reason, it is better to choose grooved boards. Plywood can be covered with various decorative trim. The floor of the boards is usually varnished. This allows you to protect the coating from various influences. Also, thanks to the use of varnish, the aesthetic properties of a wooden floor can be emphasized. You can build a warm floor with your own hands in the case of constructing a concrete screed.

Subfloor for soft floor coverings

With its help, not only the loads are evenly distributed over the surface, but also the logs or concrete bases are leveled. Such floors are used for laminate, piece parquet and parquet board or linoleum. The materials used are plywood, OSB or fiberboard, all materials must be waterproof.

Mounting plywood on glue

The screed must be even, the difference in height cannot exceed ± 2 mm.

There are two ways to lay the subfloor on the screed: on the slats or directly on the base. The first method is used in cases where the base has significant irregularities, it is required to lay engineering networks under the floor or make additional insulation.

Scheme of laying plywood with a layer of insulation

Plywood floor on logs

Align concrete pavement using rails is much easier and faster than re-screeding using cement-sand mortars. Waterproofing is necessarily placed between the slats and the screed, the slats are aligned in height with various linings, fixed with dowels. The slabs of the subfloor are nailed with nails, the dimensions of the slabs must be adjusted to the distance between the slats. The side faces should be located in the middle of the rail, two plates are fixed on it at the same time. Make sure that four corners do not meet in one place, this position of the sheets can cause swelling of the finish flooring.

The scheme of laying plywood on wooden logs

The second option for laying the subfloor along the screed is used on even grounds that do not require additional insulation. To achieve an ideal surface, the use of building glue is allowed. It is smeared with a comb under the slabs and eliminates even the slightest irregularities, the subfloor becomes a single monolith with a screed. Further, the floor device algorithm depends on the materials used.

Plywood laid on the floor

The heads of the hardware must be completely recessed; for this, special or home-made finishers are used. If it is planned to lay linoleum on the subfloor, then it is recommended to grind the entire surface with an electric machine.

Sanding plywood

Particular attention should be paid to the joints, the presence of sharp changes in height is not allowed here. .

In the photo, checking the evenness of laying plywood

The holes from the caps of the dowels are puttied.

Plywood floor putty

Remember to always leave a gap of 1-2 centimeters between the subfloor and the wall. To prevent bridges from appearing in these places, place pieces of any heat insulators in them.

Video - Subfloor construction

fine finish

The design of any floor involves a decorative finish.

This can be done using several types of materials:

Board installation. This is the main option for arranging wooden floors. Before laying it, the wood should be treated with special compounds. They will protect it from premature decay and damage by microorganisms. When installing the board, it is important to carefully adjust its dimensions in order to get joints without gaps.
Laying laminate or parquet. Their installation is carried out only on perfectly flat bases. If the floor is formed from logs, then you need to level it with plywood, boards or other similar materials. After that, the substrate is laid, on which the lamellas are joined together. When old floors are used for installation, it is important to check their condition. If necessary, it is desirable to cover the damaged areas so that the parquet does not sag over time.
Tiling. This option is suitable for bathrooms where there is high humidity. Installation is carried out on cement mortars that adhere well to the tiles. The material is only suitable for concrete bases.
Use of roll products. This includes linoleum and all similar materials. They allow you to get beautiful surface but require a solid base. You can use them for any reason.

Floor device diagram

The scheme of installation of the subfloor on the logs

Methods for installing a country floor

Structurally, you can choose one of two ways to install the floor.

The main elements of a wooden floor

If possible, logs rest directly on the foundation. Sometimes a special mortgage crown is laid out for this purpose. In this case, the floor is rigidly tied to the frame of the house and, along with it, experiences seasonal fluctuations.

If it is impossible to put logs on the foundation or elements rigidly connected with it, then install an independent floor that lies without reference to the main structure of the house. This is done by laying each lag on the posts. This method of performing the floor is allowed only on stable and inactive soils.

The device of a dry subfloor on logs

conclusions

To figure out which types of flooring are more suitable for a private house, you should know the features of the operation of the building. For example, for country house no need to equip the floor in several layers. It also does not need to be insulated. Such buildings are used only in the warm season. Also, the installation of floors in a private house is usually performed using wood. Such material has a low price, and is also simply and quickly mounted.

For capital buildings, a more complex structure will have to be equipped. At the same time, the wooden floor must have several layers, including hydro and thermal insulation. Before installing such a floor, you need to carefully prepare. You will also have to choose high-quality materials. Before deciding what type of flooring to make in a private house, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each type of floor.

The concrete base is carried out in stages. It is chosen only if necessary to create a reliable and durable floor.

Do-it-yourself self-leveling floors
PVC Floor Tile
How to make a dry floor screed with your own hands

Do-it-yourself wooden flooring is quite possible, if you first study the instructions for this work. Boardwalk has always been more popular than floors made from other materials, as it differs from them in its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and the ability to create a specific, especially healthy microclimate in residential premises.

Most often, coniferous wood is selected for flooring in the house. Mostly larch is used, which shows particular resistance to both temperature extremes and high humidity. Due to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, destructive fungal formations do not appear on it, which means that the processes of decay and destruction are excluded.

Gender Requirements

Wooden flooring must meet certain requirements, without which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for residents. These criteria can be safely attributed to:

Effective soundproofing and thermal insulation of rooms.
Reliability and durability of a wooden covering.
Wear resistance, and therefore - the durability of the floor.
Moisture resistance and hygiene - cleaning the floor should not cause any particular difficulties.
The aesthetics of wooden flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
Ease of installation work.

To achieve all the mentioned qualities of a wooden floor, you need to choose the right material for its installation.

Material selection criteria

In order for the floors to serve for a long time without drying out the boards and their deformation, when choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the following material parameters:

grade. For a finish coating, it is better to choose the highest or first grade of the board, and for rough flooring, grade 2 ÷ 3 is usually bought. If the finished floor is covered with paint, then second-rate material is quite suitable for it.

The quality of the wood will directly depend on the grade of wood. Even when purchasing top-grade material, you need to pay attention to the presence possible defects, such as chips, cracks and knots - they should either be completely absent, or be in a minimal amount.

It is very important to pay attention to the drying of wood. It must have a certain humidity, otherwise, over the years, cracks will appear between the boards, and the floorboards themselves will become deformed. Humidity for finishing boards cannot exceed 12%, and for roughing - not more than 17%.
The length of the bars and boards should ideally correspond to the length and width of the room where the floor will be laid.
The standard thickness of floorboards is 120×25mm and 100×25mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the lag on which the boards will be fixed. According to the existing technology, these distances should be selected in accordance with the data given in the table:

Step between lags in mm	Floorboard thickness in mm
300	20
400	24
500	30
600	35
700	40
800	45
900	50
1000	55

Buying any construction material, after the necessary calculations have been made, it is necessary to add 15% in reserve to this amount - this rule has been verified by experienced builders, therefore it is recommended to follow it.

Wood preparation

Before the process of installing the lag and flooring of the floorboards, they must be prepared. Usually, flooring material is sold already planed, but if burrs are detected during inspection, they must be removed with an electric planer.

Their installation is started only after the material has completely dried.

The choice of floor design

Knowing all the requirements that apply to the coating material, you need to decide on the design of the floor, since for each specific case a different option is suitable, depending on the conditions in which the installation will take place.

There are several main types of wooden floor designs:

Floors on logs laid on floor beams. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the finishing floor.
"Floating" construction - boards laid on a concrete base, but not attached to it .
Coating fixed on logs laid on the ground.

These methods of arranging a wooden floor have become the most popular, as they give creative freedom to the master, who can bring his own adjustments to the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that suits it to a greater extent.

Floor beam system

Logs, as the basis for the floor, can be fixed to floor beams, which, in turn, are laid on a columnar or strip foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is arranged has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.

To create an air gap, floor beams are often raised above the ground to a certain height, laying them on top waterproofed foundation surface. They can be rigidly fixed to it or simply securely laid on top. The second option is chosen if the foundation has not yet had time to shrink, and when it does, it will not pull the floor system along with it, which will certainly begin to deform from such an impact.

With a large width of the room (more than 3 meters), columns can be additionally installed between the walls, which will create rigidity for the floor system. All supporting structures under the floor foundation beams must be waterproofed in order to wooden details served the longest possible time.

What should be the thickness of the lag and floor beams? This mainly depends on the width of the free span (distance between adjacent support points). Usually proceed from the following indicators (see table):

After the floor beams are installed, the logs need to be fixed on them. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected floorboards.

When arranging such a “floating” floor structure, the logs, and then the boards, should be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent of them. A material is laid in the opening between the walls and the floor system, which will not allow cold air to enter the room, allow the wood to “breathe”, and expand freely when temperature and humidity changes.
When laying logs consisting of two separate sections, their overlapping by 400 ÷ 500 mm should be on the support posts or on the beam. The logs should be aligned with the building level, if necessary, to achieve an ideal horizontal, small pieces of wood are placed under the logs.
After the logs are set and fixed, it is recommended to arrange a subfloor, for which low quality boards are quite suitable. To install them, cranial bars 30 × 50 mm in size are screwed on the entire length of the lag from below.

The boards of the subfloor are not always fixed to the cranial bars, usually they are simply laid tightly to each other. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the subfloor, fixing it with staples to the logs and boards.

Between the lags, the vapor barrier is tightly laid - it can be mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as dry filling from expanded clay or slag.

Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation. Its individual sheets are glued together with adhesive tape, and then the film is attached to the logs with staples.

The top layer of vapor barrier is necessary so that dust and particles of insulation material cannot enter the living quarters. On top of this entire floor system, floorboards or thick plywood will then be laid.

Prices for various types of timber

Logs fixed to the concrete pavement

Often, to create a layer for the floor in apartments, a wooden floor on logs is also arranged on a concrete base. Here, the whole difficulty lies in leveling the lag on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise the wooden covering a few centimeters above the concrete slab.

If the apartment is located above the first floor, then most often the logs are laid out, leveled, and then fixed to the concrete base using anchors.

Both in the first and in the second version, the lags are drilled through. To raise the log above the base, use different metal and plastic elements. In this case, the photo shows the studs. They allow you to raise and lower the logs on one side or the other, aligning them in level. The extra piece of the hairpin, after removing the lag to the desired height, is cut off with a grinder.

In each of the options, a heater can be laid on the concrete between the lags, which will add thermal insulation to the coating, and also help to drown out the noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where the logs are installed under the wooden floor. Mineral wool, polystyrene or can be used as an insulating material.

Flooring on concrete pavement

Sometimes a wooden floor is laid on a concrete floor without the use of a log. As a covering, floorboards or plywood are used. It is advisable to lay a thin insulating material under such a floor - most often foamed polyethylene is used for this, but it is better to choose one that has a foil coating.

Separate sheets of the substrate material are fastened together with adhesive tape to create a solid coating - it will make the floor warmer and drown out noise. If plywood is used for flooring, you need to remember that it must be laid on top of it. decorative coating. Floors made of sufficiently thick boards will look respectable if they are varnished, waxed or of high quality paint.

Floor board installation

Having chosen the boards of the required thickness, it is important to determine the correct direction of their laying on the floor. As many years of experience show, the best option for laying boards is considered in the direction natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, planning the laying of the board should begin with marking and fixing the lag.

The floor boards have different types connections:

1. Connection using an insert-liner in the grooves of two boards.

2. Groove-thorn connection in the presence of tongue-and-groove boards.

3. Connection "in a quarter".

The last type of connection is the easiest to install, so floorboards with such an attachment are most often used. In addition, the "quarter" connection creates a single coating with almost imperceptible gaps between the boards, so it optimally retains heat in the room.

Boards can be fixed to two ways of fastening:

Nails or self-tapping screws can be driven into the groove located on the side of the board, at an angle of about 45 degrees, with the cap recessed into the wood. Some craftsmen prefer to do the opposite, driving the screws at an angle into the edge of the spike.

In the second option, nails or self-tapping screws are driven in or screwed into the front plane of the board.

Starting to install floorboards, it is necessary to step back from the wall 12 ÷ 15 mm. Later, a strip of insulation is laid in this gap, and closed with an installed plinth. It is necessary for the tree to expand with changes in humidity and air temperature.

The board is attached to the joists with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. Hats are driven under zatay”, later they are sealed with putty matched to the color of the wood.
If insufficiently seasoned wood is used, then the laid floor requires a drying period that lasts 6 ÷ 8 months. During this time, the coating will shrink and shrink, gaps will increase between the boards, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of relaying it. In this regard, during the initial laying of the flooring, all the floorboards are not completely nailed to the joists, but only the fifth - seventh board is attached. After drying the boards, they must be shifted, pressed as tightly as possible to each other and nailed to the logs.

If boards with a tenon-groove connection are chosen, for a tighter connection, a mallet is used, with which, through the bar, the spikes are driven into the grooves. Often, special clamps are used for this master, especially in cases where, due to the slight curvature of the boards, the installation goes with smearing the grooves and spikes with carpentry glue.
For a tight connection of the last board, installed against the wall, temporary wooden wedges are used, they are driven in between the wall and the board.
The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove to the end, then, most likely, a burr or some kind of roughness remains on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed, the spike must be adjusted to the groove.

Find out and also review the causes of squeaking and how to fix it, from our new article.

Video: flooring with clamps

flooring prices

Floor coverings

Floor surface treatment after final laying

After the floor has been sorted out and secured, it may be necessary to scrape its surface. This process is carried out if, during the drying of the board, it led a little, and the surface became uneven.

The starting varnish helps to reveal insufficiently smooth areas on the surface of the boards, and therefore, after it dries, it is easier to find roughness and carry out their additional sanding.

After grinding, skirting boards are installed, which will well hide the gaps between the wall and the floor boards. If, as a result of this operation, gaps remain between the floor and the plinth, then they are sealed with putty to match the color of the wood.

Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can proceed to the final coating of the surface with wax, oil, varnish or paint.

The plank flooring is covered with a finishing composition not only to give it aesthetics and respectability, but also to protect it, which means maximum long-term operation.

Oil treatment

If the boards have a beautiful pronounced textured pattern, then special oil is often used to cover it. It makes the floors warmer, not as slippery as when coated, and also gives it antistatic properties. The oil penetrates into the structure of the wood and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, practically repelling it.

Wood coated with oil is less susceptible to various damages, and existing flaws become virtually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of the wood, preserving its naturalness, allowing the material to "breathe", which creates a favorable microclimate in the living room.

Floors that are covered with oil must be protected from dust until it is completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care by special means. It is very important to remember that furniture with metal legs is not recommended to be placed on such a surface, as there is a risk of unwanted reactions, as a result of which dark spots may remain on the wood.

Oil flooring is recommended in rooms with high humidity - this is a bathroom, terrace and kitchen. Such a coating is also well suited for a hallway or corridor, since boards impregnated with such a substance are more resistant to abrasion.

There are flooring compositions that do not consist of pure oil, but with the addition of liquid wax to it, which gives the floor a matte, soft sheen. Pure oils are also applied to the surface of wood, they are well absorbed into the surface, economical in application and do not require a long wait to dry.

Floor oil can be colorless, or it can have different shades that make the wood darker or give it a special, pleasant and warm color.

The oil is applied in two or three doses. It can be rubbed or applied with a brush, and its excess is immediately erased to avoid the formation of a film on top, which will create an uneven coating.

The oil composition can be applied hot and cold in several layers. The faster the wood absorbs the oil, the more layers will need to be applied. The heated composition penetrates much faster and deeper into the pores of the tree, and such a coating lasts much longer than with a cold application method.

Waxing the floor surface

Wax is most often combined with an oil coating. So, sometimes waxing occurs with a composition that consists of natural beeswax and linseed oil. Such a coating protects the floor surfaces well from scratches and dirt, as well as from absorbing moisture, but will not protect the wood from cracking and intense mechanical stress. Wax coating gives the surface a pleasant matte sheen and a golden hue.

Wax is applied to the cleaned floor with a wide roller in several layers. The first of them must be very thin in order to be well absorbed into the surface. Next, the floor is sanded, and then it is covered with another layer of the composition and sanded again.

Wax combined with oil is an environmentally friendly topcoat and is very good for use in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood that has undergone such processing has the properties to "breathe", so the floors will last a long time and create a favorable microclimate in the room.

Wood floor varnishing

The lacquer can be applied with a brush, roller or trowel room temperature, moderate humidity and absence of drafts.
On the cleaned surface, the first layer is applied nitrolac, which will serve as a kind of primer for the finishing layers of the composition. It is applied in a thin layer along the textured wood pattern. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
After the primer dries, the surface is well sanded with sandpaper. After that, the floor is washed with soapy water, thoroughly wiped and dried.
After that, proceed to the application of finishing layers. There can be two or three of them, and each of them is dried and polished.

Applying varnish to floors is a rather complicated undertaking that requires careful selection of the composition for a particular type of wood. Therefore, if this particular method of processing a wooden floor is chosen, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select the necessary materials.

The lacquer coating is quite fragile, which is easily damaged by mechanical stress, so it is undesirable to walk on thin heels or move furniture on it. In addition, varnishes are most often produced on chemical bases, which, clogging the pores of wood, do not allow it to "breathe".

Staining a wooden floor

Recently, paint is rarely used to cover a wooden floor, but it still happens, especially in cases where a special interior style is chosen. In addition, paint is used in cases where it is necessary to cover a not very attractive view of wood, since such a coating completely covers the floor surface. For such finishing, you can choose paints on different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersion and latex.

Water-based paints are preferable for residential premises, as they do not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always an opportunity to choose the one that is more suitable for a particular interior.

Enamels and other paints based on chemical solvents are also used for living rooms, but after their application, the premises require long-term ventilation, as these fumes can pose a threat to human health.

Before painting the floor with water-based compounds, the boards are coated with a special primer. For the rest of the coating materials, preparation of the base is required with the help of impregnating compounds, in which drying oil usually acts as the main component.

The paint can be applied in one, two coats or, last resort, at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the “golden mean”, since the paint, applied too thin, will quickly begin to wear out, and thick, on the contrary, peel off. Each coat of primer or paint must dry well before the next is applied.

It is described in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal.

So, if you have the basic concepts of working with wood, as well as the necessary materials and tools, you can try to lay the floors from boards or plywood yourself. If you have any questions, you can always turn for clarification and advice to articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - another interesting video on the technology of laying a wooden floor.

Video: how to prepare and lay a wooden floor

To build a private house, you have to work hard, and all the processes performed require significant costs.

In an effort to save money, some do some of the work on their own, so the question arises, how to make a floor in a private house without calling on construction teams to help?

To do this work is within the power of everyone who has all necessary materials, suitable tools and certain knowledge.

Sex Varieties

Scheme of the device of a single and double plank floor

Before starting work, you should decide what design the main coating will have.

Among the most popular types, the following types of floors should be distinguished:

single;
double;
concrete.

The choice of each of them is design features buildings in which future installation is planned, and the conditions for further operation.

Features of the device floors

Single floors are recommended only for summer cottages

A single floor is usually quite simple design, for the implementation of which there is no need to spend a lot of materials and time. The floorboard is fixed directly to the logs with nails.

The disadvantage of such a floor from the boards is the limited use. This coating is used most often only in the country, or in small houses and fully performs only the functions of holding the weight of all objects and people inside the room, combined with moderate cheapness.

In a room where year-round living is planned, such structures are used less and less.

Double floors consist of finishing and rough screed, have thermal insulation

A double floor is a construction suitable for laying indoors, in which people will be all year round. What to make the floor from so that it is warm even when it is cold outside?

This design consists of two layers: a rough and a finishing screed. Between them, waterproofing and heat-insulating materials are laid. They perfectly protect not only the floor from destruction, but the whole house from blowing and dampness.

Floor device diagram

The rough coating is made of unedged boards, and the finishing one is made of grooved boards. All the processes that the construction of a floor in a private house needs can be done by hand.

The concrete floor is a common screed. To do this, first implement preparatory work for dismantling the old coating and placing guides, then a waterproofing layer is laid and a solution is made, which fills the prepared area.

To ensure that the floor is of high quality and ready for further finishing works, he should be given the time necessary for setting.

Table of consumption of concrete for a jellied floor.

Single floor unit made of wood

The instructions below will allow you to understand the question of how to properly make the floor in a private house, subject to the order of all actions.

The device of a single floor will be carried out on poles, which, as a rule, are mounted during the construction of the main structure. At the same time, the interval between the pillars should be kept at the level of 80 cm. Subsequently, beams 10 cm thick are laid on each of the supports.
On top of this structure, we lay a grid of logs, which should be a section of 5x5 cm. If the board prepared for the floor has a section of 3 cm, then the distance between the logs should be maintained at 50 cm. Set the system under the level using special wedges and firmly fix with nails.
A rough floor from an unedged board is laid on this structure with their own hands, and a floor covering, usually linoleum or laminate, is laid on top of this layer.

For such floors, thermal insulation does not play a big role, since they are built for temporary or auxiliary buildings.

However, when placed in residential buildings, before laying the subfloor, the space between the lags should be filled with sheets of foam or expanded polystyrene. positive properties are low cost and speed of construction.

double wood floor

The device of this design is somewhat more complicated. It includes, along with a rough screed, layers of vapor, heat and hydro protection with a finishing layer located on top. Last layer, as a rule, is made of grooved boards.

How to build a floor to keep it cool in summer and provide a pleasant microclimate in winter? For more information about the correct floor device, see this video:

All processes can be done with your own hands, if you follow the step-by-step instructions:

When placing the boards, it should be taken into account that between the vapor barrier and the layer of finished boards there should be an air pocket of at least 2-3 cm.

For good ventilation in the air pocket, special through holes that need to be covered with a decorative crate.

Concrete floor

Initially, marking is done for the manufacture of such a coating. To do this, use a laser level, which will accurately help to set the marks along which the threads will subsequently be pulled.

Calculation and tools

Concrete floor installation

To carry out all processes, you must have:

vibrorammer;
ruberoid;
small expanded clay;
polyethylene film;
foam boards;
reinforced mesh;
spirit or laser level;
slats.

Only when performing a durable, perfectly even concrete floor can one hope for a high-quality arrangement of the floor covering.

Concrete floor installation

Before you make the floors in a private house, you need to read the instructions that will help you do all the processes in strict accordance with the rules and regulations:

Initially, the base of the surface on which the concrete floor will be performed is prepared. For this, a rough base is prepared, which can be made from layers of broken bricks or crushed stone using M100 concrete.
The next stage involves the installation of a waterproofing layer. It is very practical in this case to use roofing material.
After that, you need to take care of thermal insulation. You can use expanded clay or foam boards for this purpose. IN middle lane it is advisable to place both of these layers simultaneously, starting with the foam.
On top of the laid layers, it is best to place a small wooden crate, followed by laying the chain-link mesh.
On top of the erected frame, starting from the corner farthest from the entrance, a smooth pouring of concrete begins with simultaneous leveling with the rule along the marked beacon lines. Filling is carried out in one go.
The final stage is the leveling of the top layer with a liquid cement mortar or a special self-leveling compound. For information on how to properly fill the subfloor, see this video:

To successfully complete the tasks of pouring the floor, you should be guided by the attached instructions and purchase high-quality consumables and fixtures.

Wooden floors allow you to keep warm in the house using minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most common throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coatings.

Floors made of high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics for centuries, are relatively inexpensive, versatile (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for a different type of flooring. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment by just one person.

General principles for wooden floors

Installation of wooden floors on a concrete base practically no different from the arrangement of floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. Much more difficult is the case with floor installation on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.

A few words about the tool

From the chosen method of floor installation depends on what tool you need for work. But in any case, you can not do without:

laser level; in extreme cases, you can use the hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
conventional or cross building bubble level with a length of at least 1 meter; the cross level is preferable, since it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
jointer and (or) grinders.

The usual carpentry tool will not be superfluous - a square, a small ax, a planer, a chisel, a nail puller.

Floor installation on support poles

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following "layers" (from bottom to top):

the basis of all flooring is logs;
draft ("lower") floor;
waterproofing layer;
thermal insulation layer;
directly wooden floor (finishing flooring);
finishing flooring.

This whole multi-layered "sandwich" is usually kept on supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The best choice today is brick pillars that have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require much labor during construction. The only limitation is the height of such supporting pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, it will be necessary to increase their cross section, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of bricks and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. With a height of pillars up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is enough, with a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made at least 1.5x1.5 bricks, columns up to 1.5 m high are laid out at least 2x2 bricks.

Anyway under the brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete "pyataks", whose area exceeds the area cross section columns at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the platforms is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the log and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN the logs with a section of 100 ... 150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are pulled out in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel “cushion” is made, onto which concrete mix. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting "penny" is a few centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the supporting pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use a laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE of the LAG plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is already adjusted to its level. It is not necessary to bring it strictly down to a millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be above the level of the basement of the building - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid "cold bridges".

Some features of the pillars

It is worth considering them the presence of fasteners for beams-lag. Usually, as such fasteners, vertical “studs” with threads or anchor bolts embedded in 10-20 cm are used - later, through holes are drilled in the logs in appropriate places, with which the beams are “put on” on the resulting pins, and are attracted by nuts with washers. The protruding excess of the "thread" is cut off by the "grinder".

The lateral surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane on which the lag will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster- it will additionally strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. On the surface of the finished columns is laid 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing material.

After the masonry mortar has completely dried and hardened (it takes about a week), logs can already be laid on the finished support pillars.

Laying lag on brick columns

The length of the lag is selected depending on the design of the floor. When laying on supporting pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire "sandwich" of the floor lies and rests exclusively on the posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the log are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; this design virtually eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building subsides, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a "floating" version of the floor, the length of the log is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise the logs will be difficult to rigidly attach to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into "half-paws" - but the joint must necessarily fall on the support post and be nailed or (for a lag section of up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the lag is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting the roofing material waterproofing gaskets!); however, it is much better between the roofing material and the lower plane of the beam-lag to lay flat a piece of board with a thickness of 25-50 mm. In the case of butt lags, this must be done!

Log alignment

After laying out the lag on the prepared support pillars, they must be "set" in level. This is done as follows: with the help of wooden spacers of small thickness two extreme beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Gaskets are still used only on the extreme support pillars, while you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; in the case of "floating" floors, this fastening will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, on the upper planes of the laid lag tightly the construction cord is pulled. All other intermediate beams are displayed on it; then, if necessary, gaskets are installed between the remaining posts and lags. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams should lie tightly on the pillars, in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.

Draft floor

After laying the log, a draft floor is made. To do this, along the entire length of the lower cut of the log, a narrow bar (“cranial” bar) is nailed on each side of it. Raw boards with a length equal to the distance between the lags are laid on it between the lags. After laying these boards “solidly” they are covered with a vapor barrier film, on which insulation is applied or filled up. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof cloth.

Underfloor ventilation

When arranging the floor on brick pillars in the underground space ventilation must be provided- forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. Required element such ventilation - the so-called "perfume": Through holes in or walls below floor level. Such openings should be available along the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It must be possible to block the airflow in winter time. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the openings of the vents are closed with a mesh with a fine mesh.

When unless the underground is too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of products is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.

How to properly lay floors

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof sheet. The choice of board depends on what kind of surface the finished floor will be. If it is conceived as natural, it will require grooved batten(with a lock); if linoleum or laminate is to be laid, it is quite possible to get by with an ordinary edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRY!

We fasten the grooved board to the lags

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with a spike to the wall. The following boards are pressed against the previous ones with the help of some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws are not suitable in this case, they do not attract the board to the upper surface of the log. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be staggered.

Floor finishing

After laying the floorboard, the floor is ready for finishing, which consists in its sanding (sanding) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is fixing the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.

The polished surface is painted or varnished, for example, yacht; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or material surface. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied, a paint roller and a good respirator are used for work. If you want to get not a glossy, but a matte floor surface, you can use wax or oil.