Laying sewer pipes in the house. Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house - the main steps. Sewer pipe laying depth

Modern man spoiled by civilization. Sewerage, which not so long ago seemed to be a component of elite housing, today has become an integral part of almost any apartment. Those who live in multi-storey comfortable houses do not have to think about the design and installation of this system, but the owners of individual buildings have a harder time. Domestic sewerage is a rather complex system. The efficiency and reliability of its operation directly depends on the design and installation of the structure. How to avoid errors in the process of arranging the system? Let's figure it out.

Where to start construction work?

Arrangement internal sewerage involves the installation of risers of fan pipes and the installation of piping in the premises. It is best to take care of the drainage system at the design stage of the building and place all the "wet" rooms at a minimum distance from each other. Ideally, make them adjacent, so you can significantly simplify the arrangement of internal sewage. It is also important to correctly determine the location of the collector pipe, to which all pipelines will converge.

Now you can begin to develop a scheme for future sewage:

Observing the scale, we draw a plan of the building.
We mark on it the location of the risers.
We put on the diagram all the plumbing fixtures that are planned to be installed. We note for ourselves the features of their connection.
We draw pipelines that will connect risers and plumbing equipment. We mark all the necessary turns, joints, etc. Be sure to indicate the connecting elements that will be required for the installation of tees, bends, etc.
We determine the parameters of the riser and the fan pipe.

In accordance with the scheme, the installation of the system will subsequently be carried out, in addition, it will help determine the number necessary materials.

Internal sewerage includes risers of fan pipes and piping in all internal premises of a private house

Now you need to choose a pipe laying method. There can be two of them: hidden and open. In the second case, the trunk is mounted on a wall or floor. The first is more time-consuming and involves the execution of strobes in structures into which pipes are subsequently laid. When choosing this option, experts advise laying internal water and sewer pipes in one gate. Plumbing is on top and sewage is on the bottom. This is very convenient as it reduces the time required for installation work, and their volume. In addition, much less material is required to seal the strobe.

Here is an example of such work:

Important points when designing a system

When designing internal sewerage, the following aspects must be taken into account:

For a gravity system, and internal sewage is such, it must be maintained. For pipes with a diameter of 50 to 80 mm, it is 2 cm per meter; for products with a diameter of 80-100 mm, the slope increases to 3 cm per meter.
The drain pipes of the dishwasher and kitchen sink must be equipped with grease traps.
The toilet must be connected to the riser only by a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
For a house with several floors, the diameter of the riser should be 100-110 mm. It must be equipped with hatches for cleaning.
It is best if the house has only one sewer riser. All branches of the internal sewer system will approach it.
The location of the outlet of the pipeline is determined by the location of the collection well, which must be installed at the lowest point of the site. The outlet is located in the wall closest to the well.

By following these simple rules you will avoid many problems.

Internal sewerage can be laid hidden or open way. The first option involves the implementation of strobes in which pipes are laid, which makes it quite difficult to arrange. The second one is much simpler in execution, but less aesthetically pleasing.

Choosing parts for the pipeline

First of all, we determine the material from which the elements are made.

Option #1 - cast iron pipes

Some time ago, there was simply no alternative to such details. Their advantages include durability, such pipes serve more than half a century, high strength and fire resistance. At the same time, cast iron is not sufficiently resistant to impact point loads, from which it must be protected as far as possible. The disadvantages of the material include very big weight, high cost and complex installation. In addition, the inner surface of such pipes is rough, which contributes to the deposition of layers, which, after time, can completely block the path of sewage.

Option #2 - polypropylene products

The advantages of such elements are resistance to all types of corrosion and solutions of salts, alkalis and acids, durability, high heat resistance. The latter quality allows the details to easily endure both low and high temperatures which makes it possible to lay them in almost any conditions.

Another advantage is increased fire resistance. Polypropylene is capable of quite long time withstand exposure to fire and do not emit toxic substances. Attractive and affordable price. Some difficulty is the installation of parts, which requires special equipment.

The most popular are plastic pipes for sewerage. They are lightweight, easy to install and have a smooth inner surface that prevents build-up on the inner walls of parts.

Option #3 - PVC parts

They can be made from non-plasticized or plasticized PVC. The characteristics of products made from these materials are similar. The advantages of PVC pipes include a low coefficient of thermal expansion, which allows products not to increase or sag when heated, as well as resistance to UV radiation. In addition, a very large assortment of shaped elements is produced, which makes it possible to assemble a pipeline of any configuration.

The disadvantages of products include fragility when low temperatures, low resistance to fire and the release of toxic substances during combustion, as well as sensitivity to certain chemicals.

General installation rules

Internal sewerage in a private house is equipped with a number of rules:

Riser elements with a 90° turn are assembled from two plastic elbows rotated by 45°. If a cast-iron pipeline is installed, two 135 ° bends are used.
To be able to eliminate possible blockages in pipeline sections, an oblique plastic or cast-iron tee is installed at 45 ° with a plug and one elbow or cast-iron branch. Cast-iron fitting differs from plastic in names and gradations. For example, a 45° plastic elbow will fully match a 135° cast iron elbow.
Branch pipelines, which are located in the basements, under the ceiling of the premises, are connected to the risers using crosses or oblique tees.
The height from the lower section of the horizontal socket of the tee or straight cross to the floor should be no more than 20 mm.
The length of the pipeline from the toilet to the riser should not be more than 1 m. For other plumbing fixtures - no more than 3.5 m.
90° crosses or straight tees can be used to make turns on risers or transitions to horizontal runs.
To prevent the appearance of odors from the sewer in the room, an exhaust hood must be equipped. The so-called fan pipe is brought out through the roof to a height of about 0.7 m. It is unacceptable to connect it to a chimney or ventilation.
If not possible, a special air valve for sewerage is mounted.
The diameter of the riser must be equal to the diameter of the exhaust part. With one hood, you can combine two or even more risers on the top floor or in the attic. The horizontal sections of such a pipeline are fixed with hanging brackets or simply wire to the rafters.
On risers that do not have indents in the upper and lower floors, revisions for the sewer are installed. standard height revision arrangement - 1000 mm from the floor level. If the part has to be installed in the corner of the room, it should be turned at an angle of 45 ° relative to the walls.
When installing an internal sewage system, all plastic pipes passing through the floors are installed in special metal sleeves. The height of the element depends on the width of the overlap. The top of the part should protrude 20 mm from the floor level, and the bottom should be flush with the ceiling.
The riser is installed with a sleeve on. In order for it not to fall from the pipe, it is tied with a thin wire to the superior socket of the cross or tee, or bursting with pieces of foam.
If it is assumed that a toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures will be connected in series on a horizontal section, a sewer adapter must be installed between them. Plastic parts must not be turned high. This threatens with problems with the subsequent connection of equipment, especially with a shower or bath. On average, the turn should be carried out at half the socket of the tee in height with a direction towards the wall.
Clamps are used to secure the sewer. plastic pipes fasten on horizontal sections as necessary, so that no fractures occur. On average, one clamp is installed per half meter - a meter of the length of the line.
Cast iron pipes are mounted on steel brackets with a bend at the end, which prevent the pipeline from moving. Fasteners are installed under each pipe near the socket.
The risers are fixed to the side walls with 1-2 clamps per floor. Fasteners are installed under the sockets.

It is important to note that at the end of the installation work, tests for tightness are mandatory.

The fan pipe can be brought to the roof different ways. The diagram shows three possible options designs

For the arrangement of internal sewage, various connecting elements are used. It should be borne in mind that the same cast iron and plastic elements may differ in names and markings

Sewerage is a necessary element of any comfortable home. Its arrangement does not require special special knowledge, but, at the same time, it cannot be called a simple matter. There are many nuances and features of the arrangement of the system. You should start with the development of a pipeline laying scheme, which will become the basis for subsequent work and help you correctly calculate the amount of materials needed. Already at this stage, you can evaluate your strengths and understand whether you will be able to cope with the work on your own or you will need to look for assistants. Many companies specialize in providing plumbing services. Professionals will quickly and competently carry out the installation of a sewer system of any complexity.

It is difficult for us to live without amenities, even being in a private house. We strive to provide maximum convenience, creating an optimal standard of living for our family. For this, it is very important to think over the issue of construction in advance.

When constructing a sewer with your own hands in a private country cottage, You can save money, but you need to carry out these works in accordance with construction and installation requirements.

Sewerage in the house involves the arrangement of external and internal sewerage.

Internal is piping, installation of a fan pipe and a riser.

The outer one includes a set of pipes running from the house to a septic tank or a deep cleaning station.

Scheme of internal sewerage

This septic tank has three chambers interconnected. Water enters first, settles and leaves in the sediment solid waste. Then it is pumped to the second, which is the aeration tank, where water is mixed with activated sludge from microorganisms and plants. All of them are aerobic, and forced aeration is necessary for their vital activity.

Then water and sludge enter the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank by a pump.

The aerotank is quite expensive, but it does not have any installation restrictions. Of the minuses, one can only say about the need for electricity, and permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.

July 17, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Perhaps someone has already encountered, but someone just needs to lay sewer pipes in a private house. In any case, you can get acquainted with five very important conditions for high-quality and long-term operation, which are sometimes overlooked.

Failure to comply with these requirements may well be called errors, but some of them can be changed on a live pipeline. I'll tell you about it, so get comfortable, let's start.

Conditions and installation of sewerage

5 requirements that are sometimes forgotten

I suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the important conditions for laying pipelines, so that, when considering installation, they are implied by us “by default”:

As indicated by the instructions from SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85, each sewer pipeline, if there is no forced flow, must be mounted under a slope. This angle is regulated by the same rules, depending on the diameter of the pipe, but not on the location of its laying.
Any sewer can become clogged from time to time, but in long stretches such a blockage may be inaccessible to clearing. Therefore, for the purpose of preventive maintenance of communications at a certain distance, revisions are inserted (for premises) or revision wells (for the street) are equipped.
When installing sewer pipelines, septic tanks and storage tanks, certain distances to other objects and structures should be maintained. This precaution minimizes the harm that can be caused by a leak or burst.
To prevent freezing of pipes, they are laid below the freezing level of the soil, or at the level of the zero point. A unified system of these parameters does not exist even by region, since here the binding to the terrain and type of soil is of decisive importance.
At home, a sand pillow is often neglected, but this can not even be regarded as negligence, but as a serious mistake. Sand protects the pipeline from sharp stones and metal fragments, does not lead to displacement during soil subsidence, and is partially a heater.

Installation of the pipeline on the street

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Yekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Soil freezing table up to 0⁰C in Russia

Now let's figure out how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, and I advise you to start with the external laying of the pipeline (from the house to the end point).

The thing is that later it will be easier for you to focus on the depth of exit through the foundation, that is, you will need to calculate the internal one in such a way as to reach a point of a certain depth. I set such priorities due to the fact that in the room the depth of communications does not matter.

As you can see from the table, the average depth of soil freezing in a particular region can be quite large and it will be difficult for you to equip the pipeline at this level. Therefore, in order to avoid freezing, you can resort to insulation using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

In addition, there are ready-made shells for a certain pipe diameter. However, the price of a shell made of polystyrene or mineral wool is quite high, especially if there is a foil coating, so I would recommend wrapping communications manually.

If you don’t know what the depth of soil freezing is in your area, then you can follow the path of experience already gained, that is, find out about the depth of pipe laying from your nearest neighbors.
In such cases, a good indicator is the installation of a water supply system, and if it does not freeze, then according to the same specifications you can equip and sewerage.

For manually insulating pipes, it is best for you to use basalt wool (adjust the thickness yourself - it depends on local needs). Slag wool should not be used for this purpose - it contains pieces of iron ore, which rusts.

From this, cotton wool gives a drawdown, which leads to an increase in thermal conductivity. It is best to fix cotton wool with nylon threads, and then wrap it with roofing material, as in the top photo, or with dense polyethylene, fixing it with wire or the same threads. But still, scotch proved to be the best in this matter.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewers

Decide on the route along which you will lay this communication - also consider the possibility of arranging revision wells, if any. By the way, you may have problems with neighbors who do not like the location of your septic tank or cesspool.

And here there is a way out - you can call representatives of the BTI before the start of work, who will issue the appropriate permit. The presence of such a document will save you from having to explain yourself to "friendly" neighbors.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

Now you can dig a trench with an approximate slope, depending on the diameter of the pipeline that you will be laying - use the table above for this. Most often, for the private sector, if there is no centralized sewage system, a diameter of 100 mm is used - this is quite enough.

But in some cases, when several yards are combined to drain waste into one septic tank or cesspool, the pipe cross section may increase, but you will not use more than 200 mm.

Sewer installation: 1 - pour a pillow; 2 - we lay the pipe; 3 - fill it with sand

At the bottom of the trench, you fill up a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 20-30 mm and with its help you already level the slope you need. The final angle is already set when assembling and laying the pipeline itself - you just add or remove sand in the right places. After laying, you need to fill the pipes with sand, tamp it, and only after that pour the previously excavated soil (I already mentioned this above).

Since the technology of laying sewer pipes in the ground requires immobility of the soil, compacted sand is needed for this purpose.
However, it is rather difficult to tamp a shaky mass, and for this purpose I simply pour plenty of water on it - shrinkage occurs within half an hour, after which it is possible to fill the trench with soil.

In the absence of a centralized sewage system, you will need to install some kind of storage or flow-type tank, that is, a cesspool or septic tank. Concrete, metal and plastic tanks are used for this, although, in the case of cesspool there may not be a separate container at all, although this is not very hygienic.

But I won’t talk about the installation of such treatment or storage facilities now, since this is already a topic for a separate article.

When laying underground sewer communications, avoid using right angle bends - with such a configuration of the route, the possibility of blockage increases dramatically.
If you still cannot do without it, then you can combine the turn using two 45⁰ fittings.

Installation in the house

The layout of sewer pipes in the room directly depends on the location of plumbing units in the house. For example, you may have two toilets or an additional sink (sink) on the second floor, then you can not do without a riser. However, be sure to respect the slope you saw in the table above.

There is no 32 mm pipe, but they are used for a washing machine or dishwasher where the drain is forced, so there is even a counter-slope (if the specifications require it).

Crosses 100×50 mm of various configurations

Anyway extreme point is a toilet bowl, as it is connected to the socket of a fan tee or a hundredth pipe outlet that goes outside (to a riser or lounger). All other appliances require a 50 mm pipe, which is connected to a 100x50 mm fitting.

It can be a tee or a cross with different angles and diameters of the branches. Similar fittings exist for interchanges of any complexity - these are different couplings, angles, tees and crosses, either one or different diameter.

Rubber reduction 50×32 mm

But there are no plastic reductions with a 32 mm outlet, therefore, a rubber reduction is used to connect the 50th and 32nd pipes - it is quite reliable for low and medium pressure pipelines. The same reductions (50×40 mm and 50×25 mm) are used to connect sink, sink, bath and shower siphons.

In each socket, whether it is a pipe, a branch or a reduction, there must be a sealing rubber two-lobed ring, which ensures the tightness of the connection. Such seals do not need to be purchased separately - they are sold complete with equipment.

If you purchased pipes and fittings from different manufacturers (although this is not even necessary), then you will have difficulty connecting.
The o-ring will create an obstacle, and with more force, it may bite.
I solve this problem by lubricating the joint with liquid dishwashing detergent.

Conclusion

Technically, laying sewer pipes with your own hands, even if you follow all the recommendations that I mentioned above, is pretty simple.

Watch the video in this article for a more visual presentation of the information presented. Perhaps you have your own developments - share them by describing the technology in the comments.

The arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with a layout and a laying scheme. This allows you to most conveniently arrange all plumbing, make the right slope, accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work smoothly, and in the event of a breakdown or clogging of one of the elements, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article, we will tell you how to correctly draw up internal and external (external) sewerage schemes for a private house or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.

Charting starts from a distant plumbing fixture in the attic or top floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and consumables, bathrooms on different tiers are placed one vertically.

Sewerage in the house consists of:

Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
Drainage from all plumbing;
Pipes leading drains to the external sewer;
Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
Clamps in the walls that support the pipes and give them direction and angle.
Central stand.

It is important that the house does not have a transition from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

accurate drawing internal system depends on the number of storeys of the building, the presence of a basement, the number of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and the attachment to additional equipment also matter ( pumping station or separately for each device).

On the diagram All items must be displayed to scale. so that in the event of a scheduled repair or emergency It was possible to quickly sort out the wiring and find a breakdown.

outer line

External sewerage starts from the pipeline from the foundation. Effluent is diverted to a septic tank, cesspool or filter facility. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). Outside there is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be mounted near windows, with access to the courtyard or near smokers. Categorically it must not be connected to a conventional ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for the intake of drains, autonomous installations are used.

Cesspool. It is easy to organize on the site and is the cheapest option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of stocks. There is a possibility of dirt getting into ground water and bad smell.
A do-it-yourself septic tank made of concrete-filled bricks or pre-cast concrete poles c. It performs its functions well, durable and strong. The disadvantages include a long installation time and serious construction costs.
Industrial stand-alone installation. Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered by the speed of construction, High Quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. Differs in the highest degree of cleaning and big productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

Be sure to determine the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that 200 liters of water per day is used for each inhabitant of the house. Drains in the septic tank settle for 3 days. Based on these data, we get Exact size waste tank.

So, a family of 4 people consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, it is necessary to select a septic tank of just such a volume. If desired, you can make a small margin in case of a maximum load of the tank. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main armature:

Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
Tees with a 45 or 90 degree flank.
Elbow for connecting pipes with a height difference (450 rubles / pc.).
Rectilinear double-sided clutch with rubber cuffs in the sockets (from 30 rubles).
Revision (60 rubles)
reductions of different parameters (from 40 rubles / piece)
Hood umbrella (from 50 rubles)

Before you begin to equip the sewer system, you must carefully read the basic requirements put forward to it. As we will tell in a special review.

Water can be not only useful, but also harmful to the human body. Which coarse filter better fit to give, find out from this.

Optimum inclination and depth of laying during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of laying. With a cross section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid clogging and “fatting” of the sewer in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When mounted on a land plot, the same angle of inclination is observed. A sleeve (a pipe of larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to outdoor sewerage, And located 30 cm above the freezing level of the soil.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable- you will have to make a very deep septic tank. Subject to a constant slope, it will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost is increased by additional concrete rings and more durable (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or heating cable insulation can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain waste from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

Pipes can be used to organize a sewer system in a private house. cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

Outdoor (PVC)

Designed for outdoor networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite being relatively cheap, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and concealed installation . For them, a connection by cold welding is recommended. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications, they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

Single or multilayer.
Foam protected aluminum coated and polymer layer.
The connection is carried out by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the device and laying of an external system

Briefly instructions on how to properly make a local autonomous system sewers in a private country house(in the country) with their own hands, looks like this:

Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
Formation of a sand cushion.
Layout of all constituent elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewerage. For greater reliability attachment points are treated with silicone sealant.
Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
Fill the trench, trying to compact the sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding a sharp load at a right angle. The thickness of the sand bed at least 15 cm.

For pipeline turns, fittings for external engineering networks are used. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the site with an intermediate revision well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer for a private house, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly sewer in a private house, do everything according to the scheme yourself and lay pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be better if follow a few guidelines:

When installing a sewer it is important to consider every nuance: the placement of plumbing, the relief of the site, the location of the intake manifold or septic tank, the depth of pipe laying and the angle of inclination.

Only with careful scheming, careful planning and order installing a sewerage system in a private house or in a country house with your own hands can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.

Carrying out a sewerage system in a private house requires strict control and tracking of all steps. Which ones? We will tell further.

Very often, people living in the village have a desire to somehow improve life in their home. And the first thing a person usually needs to increase comfort is a cozy bathroom in a home.

First of all, you need to design how you want to arrange the pipes. The result should be two systems: external and internal. For the interior, determine the location of the fan pipe, riser, sewerage pipes for the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.

Helpful information:

The external system includes pipes leading to a septic tank and, if desired, to a deep cleaning station.

Good for those who can design and organize the discharge of wastewater into a centralized system. If this option is not provided, it remains to build a septic tank. Moreover, it is better to immediately turn to professionals so that there are no problems with the sanitary and epidemiological service in case of violation of the rules for installing a septic tank. And if there is not enough money, then you will have to lay the sewer in a private house with your own hands. It is possible with a filtration field to protect the ecology in the territory. Or maybe just a storage septic tank. We do not consider other options. But most importantly! Observe the mandatory requirements of the sanitary and epidemiological service.

Sewerage scheme

Before starting work, draw a diagram of the laying of pipes and their connections inside the house. It will be easier if necessary premises will be nearby. Since the scheme for each system is individual, work out all the nuances of the markup. Although in the end you can do as your heart desires. The main thing is that it works, there is enough money and they have not deviated from the norms.

When developing a sewer project, do not forget about the collector pipe. Knowing its location, you can design the wiring of the remaining parts of the sewer system.

The procedure for drawing up a plan

Drawing up a plan for conducting sewer pipes in a private house is a very important stage. As the plan is drawn up, so will the entire purification system serve you. Step by step:

Take the plan of the house. If this is not the case, draw the house yourself as accurately as possible on a piece of paper in a box, given the scale.
Decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located.
Mark the location of plumbing on all floors, including the basement. By the way, by this point you should decide on how to connect it.
Draw how the pipes go to the riser, taking into account the branches, corners and tees.
Calculate the footage of the required pipes by measuring the length of each. And do not forget to take into account the diameter of the parts.
Completion of the design - draw a diagram of the external system: the outlet of the pipes and their laying to the septic tank.

After the plan-scheme for conducting the internal sewerage system is made, you can proceed directly to the pipes. However, there are features that should not be neglected:

Wastewater from the toilet room, namely, from the toilet bowl, must exit through a pipe with a diameter of 10-11 centimeters. Moreover, it is desirable that their length be at least a meter.
The remaining pipes come from the bathroom and kitchen with a diameter of 50 millimeters. They are prepared, like a PVC or PP pipe for a riser. In my opinion, there is no difference in materials, since they lose their properties when heated above 100 degrees Celsius, and such temperatures are not observed in sewer systems.
Blockages usually form at 90 degree turns. So consider purchasing some 45 degree plastic elbows to avoid sewer clogs.
Until now, some people use cast iron, steel, and God still knows what impractical Soviet pipes. But in vain. PVC and polypropylene pipes much more reliable, more durable, and, most importantly, are inexpensive. Moreover, the implementation of a sewerage system with such pipes is much simpler both in a private house and in an apartment building.

How to choose the right pipe

Without a clear long-term preparation for conducting sewer pipes in a private house, you can easily break firewood by going directly to practice. Have you made a plan? Have you done the necessary calculations? Then we go to buy materials. Everyone knows and everyone has seen the pipes gray color which are used for internal wiring. That's what we need. For an external sewerage system, orange color pipes. It is logical to assume that orange ones are better visible on the street in the ground, which is why they are used in outdoor wiring. In addition, their properties also differ, primarily with regards to the material. The underground ones are orange, tougher and able to withstand more severe loads than the grey, domestic ones. Accordingly, the material from which they are made is very dense.

For more successful do-it-yourself pipes, experts advise using two-layer corrugated pipes. However, in a private house, pipes are laid at a depth of 2-3 meters, which means that the use of corrugated pipes becomes impractical. Much easier and cheaper to use orange pipes. It is best to use a 110 mm diameter material for the sewer system from the outside, for a problem-free exit of wastewater.

Laying sewerage in the house

Turning to the practice of laying internal sewerage, many novice plumbers face difficulties in connecting and securing pipes to walls and ceilings. It is very difficult for one to do such a job. It will take a lot of time and nerves. So if you have someone to turn to, do not neglect help, even for a small fee. Working in tandem will more than justify your efforts to place sewer pipes.

Today, probably, in every plumbing store you can buy pipes made of polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene. And in modern trading houses specializing in construction and finishing materials you can not only look at the goods from the showcase, but also take them from the shelves yourself, choosing the dimensions of the goods, among which there are always tees, caps and elbows. By the way, a cuff made of rubberized material is installed in each pipe, which allows you to firmly dock the pipes during installation and protects against leakage. For additional protection, the seams are coated with silicone sealant.

Don't Forget the Little Things

Here are some points to always remember:

If you are running the pipe through a wall, install a heavy guard to avoid the pipe deforming if the foundation moves.
SNiP 2.04.03-85 specifies the requirements for setting angles for materials of different diameters. Please read them carefully before proceeding with the installation. Otherwise, dirty water may run to the wrong place or not as we would like.

Laying sewerage under the foundation

If the hole in the foundation for the outlet was not designed during construction, then you need to make it yourself. Drilling can take a long time. In some cases, for several days. Therefore, it is better to immediately contact the specialists in drilling the foundation slab, or purchase an expensive powerful hammer drill with special drills.

When marking the drilling site, keep in mind that the depth of the sewerage should be below the freezing line of the earth. Moreover, each region has its own standards.

The sleeve for protecting the pipe at the place where the foundation passes must be at least 150 millimeters from the edges of the wall.

We put the riser and part the pipes

Most often, the riser is mounted in the toilet room. Optionally, it can be installed in a niche, or you can simply attach it to the wall closely with the help of clamps. Do not forget that the size of the pipe from the toilet to the riser should be 10 centimeters.

When connecting pipes with different diameters, use adapters. Oblique tees are used when ordinary ones cannot be connected to the riser. The collector pipe is obligatory in case of connecting several waste pipes and is selected with a diameter of 100 - 110 millimeters. Well, in order to avoid sewer odors, put. Otherwise, you will have to pinch your nose with a clothespin.

Installation of a fan pipe

Having put the riser and made the wiring, no one guarantees protection from unpleasant odors. You can protect your nose. It is used for air piping from the sewer to the street through the roof of the house. It is displayed directly from the riser according to the following rules:

Roof access at an angle.
A revision is attached between the fan pipe and the riser. Revision is a special tee that allows you to clean the system with various traffic jams, blood clots and blockages.
It is carried out separately from the ventilation and chimney, and it is unacceptable to place the pipe outlet on the same level with them.
Installing a vent pipe near windows and doors is extremely unfavorable.

What are septic tanks

Such an important stage as conducting a sewerage system outside a private house or cottage should not be overlooked. Subsequent difficulties may be associated with the flooding of adjacent territories and the occurrence of unpleasant odors, as well as with possible violations of the rules for installing a septic tank, which, when checked by the sanitary and epidemiological service, will be identified and will incur material losses.

Septic tanks of the second type are accumulative, easier to install, cheaper and more practical, but require more labor. For them, a capacity of at least 2 cubic centimeters is selected, or it is constructed from reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of 3 meters. Precipitation in such a structure accumulates everything, and a sewage machine is required to pump it out.

Calculation of the volume of a septic tank

What size to choose a septic tank? It's not hard to calculate. Below are some tips.

The precipitate falls out after 72 hours. A person usually consumes 200 liters per day. For four people living in the house, the calculation is as follows: 4 x 200 x 3 = 2,400 liters / 2.4 cubic meters.

We “dig” a septic tank and set up a release

We act in order:

We prepare the necessary equipment and materials.
We dig a hole for a septic tank and a trench for release. If the hole is meant to be deep, then it is better to dig with an excavator. So faster.
Installing a septic tank.
We connect all parts of the system. Do not forget that the release should be sloping according to the previously studied materials of SNiP 2.04.03-85.
We organize a ventilation system.
We seal all cracks and joints.
We sprinkle the building.

Laying sewer pipes

A sand bed should be laid under the highway.
Laying of sewer pipes is carried out at a depth of 200 - 300 millimeters below the freezing point of the earth.
If it is not possible to make sufficient depth, the pipes are wrapped heat-insulating material, or carried into the pipe heating cable connected to an external power source.
If the tilt angle is large, there will be noise. If small, blockages are possible. Act according to SNiP.
We do not recommend laying sewers under the floor. When repairing, it will take a long time to get to them.
The pipe leading to the sink should not have more than three bends.
Put on dishwashers and sinks. So the sewer network will last longer.

Conclusion

Well. So you got acquainted with the organization of the sewerage system in a private house. Follow all the steps in stages and do not miss the little things. Then the system will serve you for a long time.

P / S: before you start operating the system, run clean water through the pipes. If you don’t find leaks anywhere, then run it again, just more big amount water.

And further. If you are 100 percent unsure of your abilities, entrust this work to professionals. They certainly won't make mistakes. And in addition to everything, you can always turn to them for advice and help in case of any breakdowns or malfunctions.

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