How a cesspool is arranged in a private house: a diagram and construction instructions. Cesspool in a private house - types of device, location options and subtleties of installation Cesspool in a private house with your own hands

If there is no centralized sewage nearby, then as an effective solution to the problem, we suggest that you learn how to make a cesspool with your own hands.

In any country house or country house, where there is a toilet and hot and cold water supply, there is a need to collect and remove sewage. And below we will look at the most important points when arranging a cesspool:

	Choosing a place for a cesspool in a private house.
	Construction different types cesspools with their own hands.
	What materials can be useful in the work.

A cesspool is the easiest sewage option in a private house or country house, which you can implement with your own hands.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you entered from our Remontik website.

Where should a cesspool be located in a private house?

First of all, you must choose a place for a cesspool, while being guided by the following requirements:

the pit should be located on the territory adjacent to the cottage or private house;

it is allowed to arrange a cesspool no closer than 10 m from the foundation of the house and other structures on the site and to structures located on neighboring sites.

Attention! This requirement, first of all, is explained by the fact that with a close location of the cesspool, the foundation of nearby buildings and structures may collapse and they will be flooded:

the distance from the cesspool to the fence is regulated and must be at least one meter;

the depth should in no case be more than 3 meters (when choosing it, you must take into account the depth of the ground water);

the pit should be located at a certain distance from drinking wells (25 meters).

This distance directly depends on the type of soil on the land:

With sandy and sandy soil - the cesspool cannot be located closer than 50 meters from the well.
With the predominance of clay soil - not less than 20 meters.
With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands? Main types

To date, two options for arranging a cesspool are offered:

sealed cesspool;

an ordinary cesspool that does not have a bottom (drainage).

In this type of drainage pit, effluents go into the ground, where they are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria. A prime example such a cesspool will be an ordinary village toilet.

With daily high volume Wastewater(more than 1 m 3) you will need a sealed pit, which needs to be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is directly related to the fact that the presence of the bottom in the cesspool, water goes into the ground and its cleaning is carried out by microorganisms that live in the thickness of the soil. However, their possibilities during processing are limited.

With large volumes of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with their purification. In this case, wastewater will pollute the adjacent soil and it is possible that they will enter the water-bearing layers of the soil with further contamination of drinking water.

If it is necessary to dispose of a large volume of wastewater, you can think about installing a septic tank with filtration fields.

How to make a regular cesspool with your own hands

A simple cesspool is very easy to do:

A hole is dug 2 m wide, up to 2 m deep and 2.3-3 m long.

The walls of the soil are laid or strengthened.

A layer of gravel is laid at the bottom.

A protective cover with a hatch is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

simple and fast installation;
low cost of operation and construction;
simplicity and ease of use.

Some disadvantages of the drainage pit:

unsuitable for the use of large volumes of wastewater;
environmentally hazardous;
spreads an unpleasant odor;
possible unscheduled overflow due to ingress of rain or melt water;
the groundwater level may be below the level of the cesspool.

How to make an airtight cesspool with your own hands

A sealed storage tank (cesspool) is a sealed container where wastewater flows through pipes. Wastewater, as the tank is filled, must be pumped out with a sewage machine.

The main advantages of a sealed pit:

does not depend on the level of groundwater;
environmentally friendly, since wastewater does not enter the environment;
the location of the pit does not depend on the types of soil on the land.

Main disadvantages:

high construction cost;
monthly operating costs (you have to regularly call a sewage truck, on average 2-4 times a month);
smell is possible if the drive is made in the form of a well.

Calculation of the size of the cesspool

V holes \u003d number of days x number of people x V people x 0.001, where:

V pits - the working volume of the cesspool, calculated in cubic meters;

the number of days - the frequency of calling a sewage machine to clean the pit;

V people - the norm of water for one person per day, measured in liters. Accepted 100-200 liters per person.

Here is an example of a calculation:

A family of 5 lives in the house, and you are going to order a cesspool truck once every two weeks. We accept V people - 150 liters per person per day.

As a result, the required volume of the drain pit:

V pits \u003d 14x5x150x 0.001 \u003d 10500 liters, or 10.5 m 3.

What materials can be used for a cesspool

Consider different variants and types of cesspool structures that you can build with your own hands. Immediately it should be said that they are all divided into permanent and temporary.

Tires.

If you need a toilet pit latrine at a minimal cost, we recommend building it yourself using old car tires.

This is a quick and cheap option for building a drain pit. It has a simple design. First, a pit is prepared, where the tires are laid (one on top of the other). Crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the pit, if necessary, additional sealing of tires with a clay lock can be made.

Advantages:

simplicity, low cost and fast construction speed;
durability;
easily restored if necessary.

Flaws:

tires are rotting;
fast filling with irregular cleaning, as a result of which you will lose useful volume;
with a large load on the pit, it negatively affects the environment.

concrete rings.

We suggest considering the possibility of building a cesspool using concrete rings.

This is another good option for quickly building a cesspool. According to the device, it resembles a well. Concrete rings are stacked on top of each other. If desired, the joints between the rings are sealed with a concrete screed.

According to the principle of operation of the pit from concrete rings rather refers to sealed types of cesspools, so you need to empty it in a timely manner. Although it is possible to build a septic tank from concrete rings.

Advantages:

relatively low cost;
durability;
ease of construction of a protective cover with a hatch;
the possibility of building a cesspool with your own hands.

Flaws:

the need for regular emptying;
high labor intensity of work;
the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipe.

Brick.

A brick drain pit is a good and optimal solution if you need drain hole for a bath or a pit for a toilet.

Advantages:

ease of construction - any summer resident will be able to cope with brickwork;
economic security - the contents of the pit imply regular removal by a sewage truck or can be cleaned on the spot.

Flaws:

periodically there is an unpleasant smell (you can cope with this problem by regularly cleaning the drive, and by using drugs that accelerate the decomposition of biological waste);
short service life (about 15 years), as a result of degradation brickwork in adverse pit conditions;
flooding (flooding can be eliminated by regularly pumping out the liquid collected in the storage tank).

How to make a cesspool out of bricks with your own hands: a description of the main steps

First of all, decide where the cesspool will be located, taking into account compliance with all requirements and ease of use.

Then decide on the design. A brick cesspool, depending on its purpose, may have a square, round or rectangular masonry.

We calculate the volume, determine the dimensions and prepare the pit.

In the case of a rectangular pit, we perform a bottom slope towards the location of the hatch. We lay a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick at the bottom, after which we fill it with concrete mortar. You can also use a ready-made concrete slab. required sizes. A cement mortar screed is made from above.

We carry out the laying of walls, the thickness of which should be at least 25 cm. It is best to lay the walls in half-brick in a checkerboard pattern. Quarter-brick laying is also acceptable.

Once the walls are ready, you need to build a clay castle of the outer part or cover them with bituminous mastic for a more reliable seal.

Plastering the inner surface (if necessary). For plaster, you can use a solution of sand and cement in a ratio of 2 to 1.

Cover and sunroof installation. When the base of the pit is ready, we install its overlap with a hatch. It should be no less than half a meter to cover the pit from different sides.

In the role of overlap, it can use densely packed logs or reinforced concrete slabs. When laying the floor, it is necessary to provide in advance a place for a hatch, the diameter of which should be 0.7 m.

On top of the coating, waterproofing is made of polyethylene film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil, 40 cm thick.

Attention! In order to prevent the spread of smell from the pit, as well as its freezing, the hatch is made double. The top cover should be level with the ground, and the other at the level of the ceiling. You can fill the space between the covers with heat-insulating material (slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

Barrel.

A drain pit from a barrel is a great option for arranging a sewer with your own hands. It can provide natural wastewater treatment in case of small runoff volumes (up to 1 m3).

Preparing a barrel for a drain pit:

Take a 200 liter barrel made of non-corrosive material, make the side walls in it in a checkerboard pattern with a drill or a grinder. These will be the drainage holes. They are recommended to be done in increments of 10 cm.

We prepare and attach a pipe to the bottom of the barrel to fix the drain pipe. For a high seal, use silicone sealants. We cover the connection point of the branch pipe with bituminous mastic.

We wrap the barrel from different sides with geotextile and fix it with a non-heating twine. This is necessary to ensure high-quality protection of the barrel from the penetration of foreign particles and soil into its container while maintaining drainage efficiency.

Preparation of a pit for a barrel and installation of a sewerage system:

dig a trench and lay sewer pipes there with a slope;

A cesspool for a private house can be built with your own hands from different materials. Each has installation features, advantages and disadvantages, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with in advance. For example, a brick cesspool requires building skills.

Cesspools made from tires or concrete rings are by far the most common options. Read more about how to install these objects.

Before starting installation, it is also important to carry out high-quality design work. In particular, choose a suitable place for the construction and calculate the required capacity of the drain pit and take into account the norms of SNIP.

The device and types of drain pits

Cesspool for country house It is considered a fairly simple method of eliminating sewage. In most cases, it is mounted in cottages where there are no permanent residents, so there is no need to install complex septic tanks or connect to a centralized sewer.

The device of a cesspool in a private house is not particularly difficult. This building consists of the following components:

excavated pit;
a special container where stock liquids will be contained;
pipeline;
a system of fasteners and anchors so that the container does not float;
filters for wastewater treatment;
sealants and other mounting compounds.

The advantage for a private house of a do-it-yourself cesspool is financial savings and the ability to select the type of device, depending on the characteristics of the site (soil, proximity to the groundwater surface, etc.).

Which manufacturing method to choose also depends on the regularity of use, the required service life and financial capabilities. To do right choice, it is recommended that you carefully study the options offered on the market and make a list of the features of your own sewer system.

If the variety is chosen incorrectly or there are errors in the arrangement of the cesspool, the owner of the site is likely to encounter some unpleasant moments. These include the ingress of sewage into the environment (deterioration of the ecological situation in the area), damage to property, the appearance of an unpleasant odor, etc.

Types of cesspools and septic tanks

Structures are classified according to the material used for the manufacture:

automobile tires of various diameters;
wood (this includes chipboard, plywood, boards, fiberboard, etc.);
brick;
concrete rings and slabs;
plastic, metal-plastic, MDF, plastic.

The above materials are affordable and easy to find. It is worth noting that it is permissible to use not new products, but used ones. High Quality. Models are also divided according to the period of application:

all seasonal;
summer patterns.

Before starting the installation, it is important to choose the right location for the structure, study its device and calculate the capacity of the tank. If this is not done, then several problems may arise at once:

if placed incorrectly, the owner will be held administratively liable, and the building will have to be destroyed and re-erected elsewhere;
the system will not function correctly;
frequent pumping out of the contents (using a sewage pump) or using special equipment for sewage will be required. Thus, this will lead to significant financial or temporary losses;
improper preparation for installation work can lead to inefficient functioning of the cesspool.

Therefore, it is advisable to immediately pay special attention to the design stage of the future system.

Location

To select a location, you must follow certain requirements and standards that are regulated by applicable law.

Note! If this is not done, then the inspection may require the relocation of the structure, and a fine will be imposed on the owner of the site.

It is advisable to pay special attention to the design and choice of location.

The structure must be located at some distance from the walls of houses, other buildings and objects:

3 m from trees and gardens;
4-5 m from the road;
10 m from various rivers, streams and foundations;
30 m from the reservoir;
50 m from the well where drinking water is taken. If the soil is clay, then a distance of 20 meters is allowed.

It is recommended to avoid arranging a cesspool at the lowest point of the site. Otherwise, such an arrangement can lead to flooding with showers and rain. It is also undesirable to place the structure on the site if the groundwater level is less than 4 meters.

It is advisable to analyze from your own experience how much water is consumed per day, but if this is not possible, then you can use the average value - 150-200 cubic meters. meters per person. This parameter is largely based on the habits and lifestyle of those living in the house. Statistics say that, for example, city dwellers consume more water than people living in villages.

Installation of cesspools - preliminary planning

After making calculations and selecting the location of the cesspool for a private house, we do its installation with our own hands. When the owner has chosen what material the sewer system will be built from, construction can begin. First of all, it is necessary to dig a pit of a suitable size for the future cesspool.

This stage can be carried out with the help of specialized equipment and a team of workers or completely independently. In the latter case, it will take more time, but sometimes only this option is possible.

For example, when it is impossible to carry out the entrance of special equipment or power lines are located too low.

In order to properly equip a cesspool for a private house with your own hands, you need to adhere to a certain algorithm:

The first ring is installed, a person climbs inside it and begins to dig under it, throwing soil to the surface.
As you dig deeper, the soil under the walls is also removed.
Be sure to maintain a uniform removal of the earth from under the ring, because. it is important to have a smooth vertical arrangement products.
When the ring is in line with the ground, mount the next ring.
The soil continues to be evenly harvested until a suitable depth is reached.

When preparatory excavation completed, it is necessary to prepare the products from which the drain pit will be built. Depending on the nature of the soil, the required design and other factors, concrete rings, machine tires, plastic containers, bricks are used. Formwork requires boards.

Before you make a cesspool of tires, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of this material. The benefits include:

tires are not subject to aggressive impact environment, corrosion does not apply to them;
low price for products;
light weight, which makes it easy to move the components;
the material is easily processed with improvised means, no special tools are required.

Flaws:

small section of tires in comparison with reinforced concrete rings or brickwork;
suitable exclusively for creating drain pits of small volume. For a country cottage where more than 5 people live, you will most likely need to choose a different material of manufacture;
Larger tires require additional assistance.

The pit is dug out independently or you can use the help of an excavator. As a rule, an additional 30 cm more than the dimensions of the products themselves are laid in the size of the pit. This will greatly simplify the installation process, and will also increase the filtration capacity of the sewer.

Some craftsmen advise removing the sidewalls of the tires so that the working area of \u200b\u200bthe drain pit is increased and waste cannot accumulate on the surface. However, this action can lead to a decrease in the strength of the system, as well as difficulties during installation.

If the owner of the site nevertheless decided to do this, then it will take about 45 minutes to prepare one tire. The procedure is carried out in this way: a hole is created in the side wall, into which a hacksaw passes, then with its help the remaining unnecessary elements are eliminated.

Watch the video

You will also need to prepare one of the tires for connecting sewer communications. To do this, a hole of about 20 cm is created in the side. The further process is almost identical to the procedure for building from concrete rings.

A sheet of high-strength material is then installed on the erected pit, which is not subject to corrosive deformation. It is advisable to use a thick galvanized metal sheet. After installing the cover, the building is covered with a layer of earth and compacted.

After a while, a turf will form on top, so the pit will not be very visible on the site. Such a design will be able to function effectively for a decade, processing a daily fluid flow in the amount of approximately 70-100 liters. If it is necessary to build only a drain for a bath, then it is enough to use 4-6 large tires.

Watch the video

The construction of a drain pit for a private house is carried out using various materials. Which type to choose depends on the financial capabilities of the owner, the required service life and the daily volume of waste fluids.

The most reliable and durable construction is considered to be made of eurocubes, however, in this case, additional assistance will be required. With a low daily water consumption, the best solution would be to equip a tire pit.

The operation of the plumbing, bathroom and toilet of a country house requires the arrangement of a competent system for collecting and discharging wastewater. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewage system, it is enough to obtain permission and make an insert into the communal system, then in the absence of the benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of waste disposal will have to be dealt with independently. Currently there are options to address this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the simplest option so far is the cesspool, a structure proven by more than one generation of homeowners. This type of sewage tank is good because it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Design features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be attributed to filtration (absorbing) drain structures or sealed sewer tanks. Sewage collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where they are decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of domestic wastewater from the site.

The cost of arranging a cesspool will pay off handsomely: this structure will give an urban level of comfort even far from civilization

Many sources on the network claim that the choice of one or another design depends on the daily amount of waste being drained. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools with a volume of more than one cubic meter per day. We believe this statement is only partly true. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewage machine will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m goes to deepen the sewer line. Therefore, about 3 m of usable height remains. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5–6 cubic meters, you will have to pump it out at least once a week. The filtration design will make it possible to increase this interval by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out does not differ at all from servicing a sealed container. The only thing that can deter the construction of absorbent sewage pits is their low environmental friendliness, since a large amount of effluent can pollute aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features, allow the construction of a pit of any type, then the filtration system will be unrivaled.

A feature of absorbent sewer collectors is the presence of a drainage layer

Sewage pits without pumping are characterized by the presence of side walls and a floor slab, while instead of a bottom, a crushed stone pillow is equipped in the structure. Thanks to it, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the ground. Often, the walls of absorbent structures are perforated, which increases the absorbency of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewer in winter and protects against the spread of unpleasant odors. A hatch is constructed in the upper part of the structure, through which the level of effluents is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering sewage pits

The advantages of absorbing tanks are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operational interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses increases significantly. However, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

limited daily volume of wastewater;
the impossibility of building a structure with high level groundwater;
low degree of wastewater treatment;
decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
unpleasant odors around the building.

Despite these disadvantages, leaky cesspools attract with their simplicity and the ability to use materials that often remain during the construction of a country house.

Factory plastic container one of the most durable and simple ways sewerage arrangement

Sewer pits of a sealed type are free from the disadvantages of absorbing structures, but require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the tanks are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for hermetically sealed structures, the norms are more democratic, although they require to think over the ways of the entrance and the arrangement of the site for the sewer truck.

The use of special bacterial agents makes it possible to increase the efficiency of waterproof drainage structures. Bacteria process sewage into bottom sediment and water, which can be used to water the garden.

The choice of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings. Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, they use capacious iron containers without a bottom or old car tires. In a word, any suitable materials will fit for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid concrete structures are used, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, it is possible to build a pit in the traditional way - from bricks or reinforced concrete rings, concreted its bottom, and ensured the watertightness of the walls.

brick

Brick pit absorbing type

A waste tank built of brick is one of the most inexpensive and simple options, especially if it is necessary to build a pit without pumping. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps that increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the possibility of building a pit of any size and configuration. Brick absorbent wells are not without the disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - silting and negative impact on ecology. In addition, masonry brick under aggressive operating conditions quickly collapses, which causes short term service of filtration systems - about 20 years.

From car tires

Worn-out truck tires are a cheap and durable refurbishment material. sewage tank without pumping

You can build a drain system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house at minimal cost using car tires as building material for an absorbent cesspool. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and equip a filter layer of crushed stone at its bottom. Tires installed one on top of the other form a durable structure that prevents shedding of the walls of the structure.

As in the previous version, the negative aspects include a high probability of environmental pollution with wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid silting and a decrease in the efficiency of the system.

To increase the filtration capacity of the cesspool, spacers are installed between the tires. The resulting gaps work in the same way as the perforations of concrete and brick pits, increasing the area of contact of wastewater with the soil.

From monolithic reinforced concrete

A concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures.

A cesspool of this type is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, built by pouring concrete mixture into an installed crate. Despite the fact that such a container is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow us to call this design the best. At present, this method of construction is being crowded out by ready-made sets of reinforced concrete rings and covers.

From concrete rings

Depending on the tightness requirements, concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls.

The arrangement of a cesspool from cast concrete rings can only be partly attributed to inexpensive options. This is due to the fact that building materials will not only have to be bought, but also to hire equipment for loading and transporting to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy reinforced concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms (further we will tell you how, if you wish and have free time, you can get by with just a shovel). Nevertheless, it is this option that is the simplest and most durable way to equip both absorbent cesspools and hermetic structures. Reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are currently being produced, which are ideal for the construction of waste collectors without pumping.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from the old metal barrel it is possible to build a filtration pit, which will ensure the efficiency of the sewerage of a country house

The easiest way to make a sewer pit is to bury a plastic or metal container of a suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to get both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first one is the absence of the bottom of the tank and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filter pad.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that the construction of a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are mistaken. In order for the operation of the sewer system to take place without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewer well and consider its design, but also to choose the right construction site.

The size of the waste sewer facility

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), mode of operation (regular or occasional use), soil type and other factors.

To calculate the sewer tank without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

the volume of wastewater per family member when using the bathroom, toilet and washing machine taken equal to 200 liters. Depending on the specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 liters;
the calculation is carried out according to the maximum daily wastewater consumption;
when determining the size of the cesspool, its volume must contain at least three times the daily amount of wastewater. That is, for a family of three people The container must hold at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer well are determined for reasons of convenience, given that the depth must be measured from the entry point into it of the sewer line. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times greater than the vertical dimensions (length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the effluents are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria and go into the ground, the size of the absorbing system will be sufficient for efficient operation.

When determining the volume of the filtration cesspool, the composition of the soil on the site must be taken into account. Sands and sandy loams perfectly pass water, while clay or loamy soil requires a larger area of contact of wastewater with the soil, and, consequently, an increase in the size of the pit.

For the construction of a storage sewer tank, the same averaged data on drainage are used as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping in days. For example, if it is planned to pump out a hole every two weeks, then for a family of three, its volume should be 150x3x14 = 6.3 cubic meters.

Most sewer trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-capacity sewage tank is necessary

Before making a final conclusion on the size of the sewage facility, be sure to consult with the utilities or private individuals who pump out the sewer. The fact is that the volume of most sewage trucks is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5-8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to lay down additional volume if the arrival of service vehicles may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a place for construction

When choosing a site for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you get a rather long list. Nevertheless, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since their failure to comply is fraught with both inefficient work and inconvenience in sewerage maintenance, as well as administrative responsibility under the current Code of Administrative Offenses.

Restrictions on the choice of location for a cesspool

It is not necessary to place a cesspool in the lowest part of the site in order to avoid its flooding with flood or rainwater.
It is forbidden to equip filtration facilities if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.
The hole must be removed:
from the foundations of buildings - not less than 10 m;
from fences - more than 1 m;
from roads and trees - 4 m.
The distance from sources of drinking water should be:
For clay soils- not less than 20 m;
for loams - at least 30 m;
for sand and sandy loam - from 50 m.
When choosing a place for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of a sewer truck access.

Blueprints. Photo gallery

At the final stage of designing a sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of sewer lines and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure to be so elementary that its design does not require "excessive gestures", we recommend that you draw up at least a simple sketch. Believe me: it is better to correct mistakes made with a pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapted to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration sewage facility Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings Drawing waste pit with overflow Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for making sealed and seepage pit latrines

Having decided on the location of the drain pit and having made the necessary calculations, they begin earthworks. If the sewer is equipped using a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. It is dug by hand or with the use of earthmoving equipment.

The excavator will save time and effort when preparing the pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earthmoving equipment

For the construction of a sewer, it is also easiest to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on the site is impossible for a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines interfere, etc. In this case, they use the old method that our grandfathers used. One of the rings is put in place, they climb inside and, using a shovel with a short handle, they remove the soil, gradually removing the earth from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is flush with the site, the next ring is installed and the soil is continued to be removed until the desired depth is reached.

Necessary tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, bricks, concrete rings or a precast concrete structure with a lid, tires from trucks, formwork boards, etc. are prepared before construction begins. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

cement and sand for mortar preparation;
small rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
metal bar or reinforcement for the manufacture of a concrete cover;
a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
waterproofing;
buckets and a container for preparing a solution;
trowel, mason's hammer;
bubble level, cord and plumb;
shovel and bayonet shovels.

If planned large volume concrete works, then it is best to use a concrete mixer, which you can borrow from friends or rent.

Brick building for a private house

For the construction of the sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burnt material, which is considered a defect in production. Silicate products are not recommended due to their low resistance in a humid environment.

The order of work is as follows:

After the pit is dug, its bottom is leveled and covered with a 50-cm layer of rubble or concreted, depending on the tightness of the structure. The latter option is carried out with the arrangement of an armored belt, which strengthens the concrete base of the drain collector.
Arrangement of the filtration layer
Perform wall laying. Depending on the project, the structure may have a round, square or rectangular shape. The masonry of the sealed container is continuous, with careful filling of all seams with sand-cement mortar. To make a pit without pumping out, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, increasing the filtration efficiency of the structure.
It looks like masonry sewer pit absorbing type
Around the sewer pipeline, it is better to make a window with a side and upper gap between the pipe and the masonry from 5 to 10 cm. Such a solution will not affect the tightness of the structure, but when the structure shrinks, this trick will save the pipe from damage.
The walls are laid out to a height below 20–30 cm from the level of the site, after which they begin to arrange the floor. To do this, a sealed crate with a hole for the hatch is installed on the pit, an armored belt is constructed and the slab is poured with concrete mortar. The frame and the manhole cover can be bought or made from improvised materials: cuts metal corners, profile pipes and steel sheet.
Overlapping the sewer tank with a hatch for pumping wastewater
The slab is covered with a layer of soil and rammed.
In regions with a harsh climate, the distance from the plate to the zero mark of the site is increased to 50–60 cm. This allows you to fill the hole with a thick layer of soil, which prevents the sewer from freezing in winter.

Video: the secrets of building a brick pit

Sewage well made of reinforced concrete rings

To date, manufacturers offer rings in a wide range. It must be understood that for a diameter of additional elements of more than 1.5 m, you will have to use lifting equipment, so the best option for making a cesspool with your own hands is products with a size of Ø1 × 0.89 m. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and cover. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table standard sizes reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Instructions for the progress of work:

By analogy with a brick structure, a crushed stone filter layer is built at the bottom of the pit, a concrete pad is poured, or a factory reinforced concrete base slab is installed (in the case of using an excavator). At the same time, it is imperative to control the correctness of the work performed by the construction level.
3-4 rings are stacked on top of each other, reaching the top level. If necessary, the desired height can be achieved with several rows of brickwork.
When installing rings of large diameter, lifting equipment is indispensable
Using a perforator, holes are made in the concrete wall for sewer lines. We remind you that their size must ensure the integrity of the pipes during shrinkage.
If it is necessary to obtain a sealed structure, the joints of the rings are sealed with a mortar, and after it dries, the outer surface is sealed with bituminous and other moisture-proof compounds, and the inner one is plastered.
The design of imported rings will ensure the required tightness immediately upon completion of installation
Install or make your own floor slab.
When buying concrete rings, you can also purchase a finished floor. This will reduce construction time, but will lead to additional costs.
The structure is covered with a layer of soil.

Video: construction of concrete rings

Concrete pit from monolithic reinforced concrete

The sewer well made of monolithic concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable designs. Note that in this case it is better to dig the pit by hand. This will allow you to install the crate on only one side and will reduce the consumption of concrete. Construction works carried out in stages.

The bottom of the pit is leveled and tamped, after which a concrete screed is made at least 10 cm thick with internal reinforcement.
After the concrete has set, the side surfaces of the pit are covered waterproofing material. This will avoid shedding of soil during concrete work.
Installing the armored belt and pouring the base
At a distance of at least 4 cm from the walls of the pit, a vertical armored belt is mounted and formwork is installed. It should be said that a wall thickness of 15–20 cm will be enough for a pit of any size.
If there are not enough boards for the manufacture of the crate, you can use the sliding type formwork.
Adjustable (sliding formwork) construction
Install mortgages in order to obtain openings for the installation of sewer pipes.
When pouring concrete, be sure to perform its bayonet or tamping. This will remove air bubbles from the mixture and increase the strength of the structure.
A large pit will provide additional convenience during work, however, it will require the use of double-sided formwork
Sewer pipes are brought into the inlets and ventilation is installed.
Fill the top plate with soil and install the hatch.
Pit cover. Pay attention to the exit of the ventilation riser - for sealed sewage systems this is a must

Video: reinforced concrete drain pit

Do-it-yourself cesspool from tires from vehicles

Tires from heavy vehicles and buses are used to make a sewer pit. Given the width of the wheels, you will need at least 8-10 tires. The pit can be dug both manually and with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20–30 cm larger than the external dimensions of the tires. This will facilitate their installation and make it possible to increase the throughput of the absorbent system. In some sources, you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of tires to increase the internal volume of the pit. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since this will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is easy to conclude that the area of contact of the liquid with the soil has priority over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

According to the laying method, the option with tires is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing 5-6 spacers between two adjacent tires, which can be used as a red brick. The gaps between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purpose, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick fragments, after which an overlap is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system.

It is possible to increase the absorbency of pits without pumping out by installing drainage pipe more than 1 m high and at least 20 cm in diameter, which is dug halfway into the ground. In its hidden part, holes are made with a diameter of not more than 5 cm. Of course, the best material will not be metal, but plastic.

Video: tire pit in a country house

Decoration of places for installation of cesspools. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil that covers the cesspool, it is not difficult to hide it from the eyes. To do this, shrubs are planted over the sewer, a flower bed is set up or a lawn is sown. To decorate sewer manholes, wooden and stone elements are used, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps from our photo gallery you can draw interesting idea or use a ready-made solution on your site.

Garden stand mounted on the cover of the pit Lawn decorative elements in the form of wooden circles Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn. Decoration natural materials Even the ventilation riser can be beaten gracefully and beautifully Aerobatics - use the place and create a real masterpiece landscape design Installation of a flowerpot of the original form with flowers decoration artificial stones Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of designs of cesspools allows you to build a sewage facility in full accordance with the needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply with sanitary norms and rules, especially in terms of the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what our children and grandchildren will get.

Why often in dachas where centralized sewerage is not provided, they use the most primitive type of toilet - with a bucket? Not at all out of a desire to get as much compost as possible over the summer, but out of elementary ignorance of how to properly equip a cesspool. Many simply do not want to get involved with the call of the sewer, believing that they will incur the wrath of the leadership of the dacha cooperative. In fact, such a truck is no more than a truck crane, a dump truck or a concrete mixer, which are allowed to enter the horticulture: otherwise you cannot build a house. And with a properly planned cesspool, it is often not necessary to call for sewage equipment. With these arguments, it is easy to solve once and for all the organizational problem of building a cesspool.

There is another obstacle to the construction of an elementary sewage system - the fear of violating sanitary standards, which will lead to contamination of the area with putrefactive bacteria. In everyday life, people are afraid to get a source of stench near their summer home, so they prefer to install a "green house" away from their homes. But with a modest size of suburban areas, the toilet may be just under the windows of the neighbors. At a private house household plot it turns out more in area, and the owner has more freedom of action. However, even here there may be a fear of building a “such a complex” structure incorrectly, which will lead to disastrous consequences. However, for such a sewer as a cesspool in a private house, the scheme is quite simple. And it depends to a greater extent on the nature of the soil.

What mistakes happen when building cesspools?

A cesspool is a source of an unpleasant odor that appears as a result of the accumulation of sewage, as well as a breeding ground for germs and bacteria. It is necessary to correctly calculate the location of the well, as well as to carry out its maintenance on time.

Indeed, mistakes in arranging a cesspool can lead to undesirable consequences, among which "ambre" on the site is the least evil. It is easy to deal with him: the pit must be closed. It is this step that will make it possible to make it even close to home, but at such a distance as to ensure the access of a sewage truck. At the same time, a real sewerage system must be built in the house, as in a city apartment. And so that a bad smell does not spread from plumbing fixtures, do not forget about water locks. This is the second most common mistake when installing sewage in private homes: the owners are well aware that such a shutter must be at the toilet - it is incorporated into the design of the device - but they forget that the drain holes of the bath, sink, sink and shower go into the same cesspool, and they do not make siphons.

In a private house or country house where the sewerage is done by the owner himself, there is a temptation to install drain holes on the floor of the bathrooms in order to protect yourself from a hypothetical flood associated with malfunctioning faucets or pipes. But even such a hole must contain an overflow that provides a water seal. It is necessary to ensure that the water in it does not stagnate and at the same time - does not dry out. Then foreign smells will not appear.

Another mistake is the wrong choice of depth for laying the drain pipe. You must first find out what the level of soil freezing is, and then only plan the location of the sewer pipe at the exit from the building. Under no circumstances should the drain freeze if the house is used, even temporarily, in winter.

Important! Do not forget that the sewer beds should not be strictly horizontal, but should have a slope of at least two or three degrees per meter, otherwise there will be no natural outflow of water from the house into the cesspool.

It is important not to make a mistake with the size of the cesspool, so as not to be constantly afraid that it is about to overflow. In this case, it is desirable to calculate the volume not for the entire structure, but for that part of it that is below the drain pipe. This volume is considered from the needs of the family.

You cannot build a cesspool scheme by copying it from another site, because both the soil and the soil can be different. When building a structure, you need to use the data of your particular site:

geodetic;
soil science;
soil samples;
depth of aquifers.

Why is a closed cesspool a part-time treatment plant?

A cesspool is a kind of septic tank that processes the incoming water, but does not provide complete purification.

A closed cesspool is not just a sump for liquid waste: anaerobic bacteria process the contents in it, with the exception, perhaps, of the layer that is in direct contact with air. Anaerobic bacteria are known to perform the initial step of converting wastewater into cleaner water. After fermentation with their participation, the water does not lose, but it changes the smell - to a marsh. The water does not become transparent from this purification: turbidity remains at this stage. Also, solid particles of mechanical suspension can be deposited in the pit, and if there is a desire to separate them to obtain compost, then a chamber with overflow from the sump to the septic tank can be built. Naturally, such a septic tank provides far from complete water purification, and they are also subject to disposal by a sewage machine. The scheme of such a cesspool will be much more complicated, since it is already, in fact, the simplest.

Let's get back to soil research. If it is found that the groundwater in your area is deep, then you can turn the cesspool into a filtration well. This scheme is called a cesspool without a bottom. It is possible to indirectly determine whether the water is deep by the following sign: if most of the neighbors have wells dug, and not wells, then they have found shallow aquifers in their plots. If everyone uses exclusively wells, then you need to ask how deep they are. But for the final decision, you need to make sure with the help of hydrological studies. If it is not possible to conduct them, then it is better to choose a sealed cesspool scheme, since it is universal.

Cesspool in a private house. Diagram without a bottom

Such a pit actually has a bottom, only it is not airtight. With such a scheme, nature itself is given the opportunity to purify wastewater, much like it happens with rainwater in nature. It must be remembered that the contents of sewage are often a more aggressive environment than rainwater. They can contain not only soap, but also more caustic detergents, and the soil must completely process them before they reach the aquifer. To do this, it is necessary that it be at a depth of more than 2.5 meters. The nature of the soil also matters: it should be sandy loam or sandy type.

The figure shows a diagram of a cesspool without a bottom, this design assumes the absence of a concrete substrate at the bottom of the pit, and filtration occurs in a natural way using natural soil.

“To charge” the soil with filtration is short-sighted, so the bottom must be covered with a pillow of fine gravel and sand. Through such a "sieve" a day should pass no more than a cubic meter of liquid per day. It is always better to reinforce this permeable bottom with geotextiles. It will not allow sand to move, seeping between larger particles of soil. If the filter is made of backfill of different fractions, it is better to re-layer them with permeable geomaterials.

Not only the shallow occurrence of groundwater speaks against the construction of such a structure, but also the large volume of discharges from the house, as well as the clay character of the soil. In this situation, an airtight pit should be built. As for the walls and top, these structures may be the same for pits with different types of bottom, so you can move on to studying the sealed structure.

Scheme of a sealed cesspool

If it is impossible to use the finished one, since a significant pit size is needed, you can build it yourself. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of drains (below the pipe!) And calculate the diameter of the structure. The volume is calculated from the considerations of half a cubic meter per person. But this is only a minimum, so you need to make a margin due to the following situations:

there may be guests in the house;
it is impossible to ensure the timely call of the sewer;
a pipe break occurs, additionally loading the sewer;
it is planned to connect new appliances that require drains: a washing machine or dishwasher, a shower cabin, etc.

This is why a volume margin is desirable. When it is known, you need to choose the material for the walls. It can be both brick and concrete - in the form of well rings. But whatever the material, you need to connect the elements with a waterproof solution in order to avoid the penetration of the contents of the pit into the soil and soil, as well as the ingress of melt water into the pit, which would significantly reduce its resource. The bottom of such a pit is best made of concrete, for which you can use a specialized reinforced concrete product - the bottom of the well. It has the same diameter as well rings, but it can also be used as a bottom for a brick structure.

A sealed cesspool is a structure, usually presented in the form of a container made of concrete structures (bottom, rings, top, hatch)

For reliable waterproofing of the structure, special geomembranes can be used, which are used in the construction of building basements. This material is easily butt-jointed, but this does not mean that it does not need to be welded. Sheets connected not only with an overlap, but also with a welded method, provide excellent insulation from moisture from the outside. From the inside, the container can be covered with waterproof cement, which was also used in the seams between the rings or bricks.

How to make the top of a closed cesspool

Open cesspools carry the potential danger of falling through, so you need to make the top of a closed pit strong, and not get by with light covers. This also applies to the hatch through which cleaning will be carried out. The upper part of the structure is ideally - reinforced concrete slab. For well rings, the industry produces such an element. It provides a hole for a standard sewer hatch, which is desirable to install, but only choose its modification from durable plastic. Such a lid will be easy to open, but at the same time it will not fall through, even if children begin to play on it. Plastic lids available in a modification with a lock, which guarantees the safety of the kids: they will never open this hatch.

If the upper part is built from a concrete slab and the hatch is made independently, then it must be provided that the lid attaches it tightly and is weighty so that only an adult can open it.

It is desirable that the top plate be sprinkled with soil and soil, while the hatch itself protrudes outward. If the house is used during the snowy period, then it is necessary to provide for a small height of the hatch above ground level so that it is easier to find and dig it out in the snow.

The image shows a scheme for creating a cesspool: preparing a pit - reinforcement - construction for formwork - erecting walls and laying pipes, creating an upper part and a ventilation outlet.

In order to go down into the pit and clean it after pumping out sewage, the hatch must be made in such a way that an adult can climb into it.

How to calculate a place for a cesspool?

You can also determine the place for the structure near the house, because it is hermetically sealed from above. In this case, the length of the sewer pipes will be minimal. But from the water intake wells - your own and neighbors - you need to be as far away as possible. There should not be a structure in the vicinity of water bodies. If the soil is clayey, then you need to retreat from all these water sources by 20 meters. When it is sandy or sandy, it is better to retreat 50 meters, because such soil has the property of osmosis, that is, like a wick, it draws liquids into itself. With loamy soils, the distance can be reduced to 30 m.

The bottom of the pit should not be lower than 1 m to groundwater. It is better to make the area of this reservoir larger than to deepen it greatly, risking either infection from a pit without a bottom, or the ascent of a sealed container. There is always some air in it, so in melted underground waters it will work like a float. If there is no concrete ring of the estimated diameter, the pit can be made square or rectangular by placing a slab of waterproof reinforced concrete at the base.

The scheme of the correct location of the cesspool on the site, the calculation of the distance from water sources and residential premises.

You need to retreat at least a meter from the fence, and from the road - in the same way as from reservoirs. Any road has under itself the changed soil. It can be compacted, replaced with a sand and gravel cushion, therefore, it is not known in advance how it will behave in the vicinity of a cesspool.

Little tricks from the experts

If you have determined a place for a cesspool equidistant from all sources of water, roads, reservoirs, then this is not a fact that you will be able to lay the pipe at the desired slope and at the same time manage to place it completely below the freezing depth of the soil. There is a way out of this situation: you need to insulate the pipe so that the water in it does not freeze. Warming is best done along the entire length of the pipe before it enters the tank, so as not to get a "cold bridge".

Plumber,

Ravil Rakhmatullin.

If you are building a cesspool without a bottom, then it is better to stock up on material and do not be too lazy to make it from two overflow wells. The first of them will be sealed, the second - filtration. So you can get fertile sludge that can be disposed of separately, and the risk of groundwater contamination will be much lower. It is important that the pipe between these containers must also be inclined if they are not located side by side, since in this case gravity must be ensured.

Builder,

Leonid Knyazinov.

You do not need to copy the location of sewer facilities even from the nearest neighbor. The condition of the soil and soil, even in adjacent areas, may be different. The neighbor has everything clean, solid ground, and you have a whole underground river running through or a stream. You also need to pay special attention to areas on the slopes, because there it may turn out that on the one hand the pit will be below the freezing level of the soil, and on the other, it will be higher, and if an input is made from this side, it is better to insulate it.

Sergey Dlinnov.

When passing sewer pipe through the walls - in the foundation and the cesspool, it is better to lay sleeves from pipes of a larger diameter, and already pass the main drain pipe into them. Then even small tectonic shifts will not scare you.

Builder,

Boris Burdyukevich

How to draw up a cesspool scheme?

Summing up, we outline all the parameters that should be taken into account in the cesspool scheme:

Her design;
depth of groundwater;
soil and soil composition;
depth of soil freezing;
site topology;
the location of all sources of drinking water, roads and reservoirs;

The choice of materials is also important - plastic, brick, concrete. To create a scheme, and according to it - drawings of a future building - is a simple matter. And if you have building skills, then building such a structure yourself is quite realistic. If you take into account all the subtleties, then no one will suffer from your well or septic tank: neither you nor your neighbors. If you choose closed type cesspool - this will turn out to be the safest and cheapest sewerage device for a country house.

The decision to make a cesspool yourself remains an ideal choice for a situation with the inability to connect to the central sewer. Such a structure solves the problem of ensuring the disposal of waste and sewage for a private house. The choice of this option is due to simple installation, easy maintenance and small financial investments necessary for construction and further operation.

The very device of this simplest and most ancient sewer system is a recess dug and equipped with walls in the ground, designed to collect and partially process wastewater. Partially filtered liquid enters the soil below, and the accumulated residue must be periodically removed so as not to overload the container.

Above the recess, a light wooden building. After filling the pit, the upper part is removed, and the remaining space is covered with earth. The accumulated elements go through the process of decay and turn into compost. Fruit trees planted here will thrive in a fertilized area. And you can use the new building.

But this method is clearly insufficient for the needs of a large building in which many people constantly live. In this case, for large volumes of waste, modern structures with walls made of various materials are needed. Most often for these purposes is used:

brick is a great masonry option even for beginners;
concrete rings, the delivery and laying of which requires special equipment;
cost-effective way of arranging from tires;
metal barrels that prevent shedding of side surfaces;
the use of ready-made plastic barrels has a long service life - more than 40 years.

Mention should be made of the convenience and modern version- the use of septic tanks. These products are made in multi- and single-chamber modifications. The most complete and deep cleaning of waste occurs in models equipped with several chambers. Purified water is suitable for watering vegetable gardens.

The cesspool device involves the installation of two types - sealed and filtering. In the first case, there is an accumulation of effluents until the time of their pumping. The second one provides for the presence of holes in the walls for partial penetration of waste into the ground. To carry out filtration around the tank, it will be necessary to lay a gravel-sand layer with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

According to requirements sanitary safety from the bottom of the structure of the infiltrating type to the groundwater table there must be at least 1 m of soil.

The purpose of such a recess is drains from storm sewer and drainage.

With a large amount of household waste, there is always a risk of soil contamination, which can only be prevented by arranging a sealed system.

Principles of design and preparation of sewage pits

A carefully designed project and competent planning will help to avoid problems during the construction process in terms of existing norms and rules. First of all, attention should be paid to the most important points:

Safe in terms of sanitary requirements location.
The choice of the type of system depending on the specifics of the site and housing construction.
Decide on the dimensions of the recess.
Plan in advance the technology of work.
Prepare appropriate materials.

Each of the items in the above list has its own nuances, the implementation of which is very important for safe and reliable operation.

The place where the structure will be located must necessarily be remote from fences, residential buildings, wells. From the tank with drinking water, For example, the distance is maintained at least 25 meters, and from the house - starting from 5 meters.
With existing relief irregularities placement at the bottom of the site should be avoided. Flooding during periods of heavy rains and snowmelt threatens to contaminate the soil and groundwater. Construction technology is selected from the characteristics of the soil in the surrounding area.
Dimensions are primarily calculated taking into account the number of residents. For one person, a daily volume of 0.5-2.0 cubic meters is planned. m of drains. The need to pay for each call of equipment, with the help of which the cesspool is pumped out after it is filled, requires one more rule to be followed - to make the volume of the structure a multiple of the capacity of the sewage machine.
The task of diverting drains is solved using the technology of an eternal cesspool. Design feature this method consists in the construction of two tanks, interconnected by a special branch pipe under a certain slope. After filling the first tank, the liquid flows into the second. This technique allows you to significantly increase the area of \u200b\u200bsoil for water drainage, and only large fractions and feces will accumulate in the main pit.
A do-it-yourself cesspool of a hermetic design is a recess with a concreted bottom. The main advantage of such a device is the complete isolation of sewage and the absence of any odors on the site and in the house itself. But relative disadvantage is fast filling and frequent emptying, especially in the presence of washing machines and dishwashers, intensive use of the bathroom and shower.

A sloppy approach to planning and execution installation work threatens with the following consequences:

unpleasant "aroma" inside the building and on the site;
freezing of water residues inside sewers;
penetration harmful substances into the soil.

Careful execution will create a favorable and comfortable environment for living and recreation. You only need to clean the cesspools on time and periodically monitor the condition of the system.

Consider in more detail the features of construction different types such a sewer system.

Arrangement of a brick cesspool

as far as possible from any buildings;
take into account the direction of groundwater flow;
provide access for the sewer.

Sizes are always an individual choice. There is no doubt that a deeper device will require less frequent cleaning, but one should never forget the level of groundwater. Closer than 30 cm to them, you can not place the bottom.

How to make a cesspool if the water is close to its location?

In this case, there is simply no alternative to the sealed type of device. In the case of a shallow depth, you can increase the length dimensions or use a multi-tank design. But it is not recommended to dig more than 3 meters even in dry ground.

The standard option for a residential building with 4-5 people living in it is a depth and diameter of 3 meters.

Buy only red ceramic bricks. Silicate and cinder blocks will get wet pretty quickly and will be unusable. Most best material- this is a burnt brick, rejected for construction because of its irregular shape.

The construction process consists of several main stages:

Digging a pit is the most time-consuming procedure. At handmade two people within a couple of days can dig a 1.5x3 m deepening in sandy soil. But clay soil will cause a lot of difficulties and will require the use of hired workers or an excavator. The shape for the pit is usually chosen in the form of a glass with a slight expansion towards the top, giving additional reliability.
The foundation must begin with the process of backfilling the soil with gravel and sand. This layer is poured with concrete pre-laying fittings. Usually the thickness of this layer is 15-20 cm and depends on the diameter of the pit.
Wall laying is done in half a brick with a size, and in brick - with a large diameter. The proportion of cement and sand in the mortar is usually 1:3 and 1:4. After completion of this stage, bituminous mastic is applied to the walls.
A ready-made pancake with a hatch hole of the appropriate size is used, as well as a self-poured lid.
At the end, the overlap is covered with a layer of earth with the location of the manhole cover slightly above ground level.

Video of arranging a cesspool made of bricks:

Over time, any structure becomes clogged. Used for cleaning various ways. Biologics for cesspools remain one of the best practices ensuring accelerated decomposition of waste and increasing the service life of such sewer systems.

How to make a concrete cesspool

The use of such elements will be an ideal option for the safety of soil and plants located near the place where wastewater is stored.

In the usual version, 2-3 concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 m and a meter height will be required. If a family of 3-4 people lives in the house, then to pump out the total volume of the structure of 4.5 cubic meters. m will have to call a special vehicle on average once a quarter.

How to make a cesspool in a private house from concrete rings - the sequence of installation work:

under the required slope below the freezing point of the soil, drain pipes leaving the building are laid and insulated;
a pit is dug with a width exceeding the diameter of the rings by 80-90 cm. A pillow of 30 cm of sand, fragments of brick or gravel is poured into the bottom of the recess;
a crane or winch will be needed to lower the concrete elements;
first place the ring with the bottom, using the building level to avoid distortions vertically and horizontally;
layer of waterproofing bituminous mastic applied to the inner surface and joints;
free space is filled up and carefully compacted;
a slab of reinforced concrete and a metal or polymer cover is attached.

There is a high probability of accumulation of methane and sulfuric gas released during decay in the tank. For their output, a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is installed.

How to make a concrete cesspool video:

Instructions for the manufacture of sealed and filtration cesspools

After selecting the area for the location of the drain tank and having all the calculations, earthworks can begin. With earthmoving equipment or manually a pit of the required dimensions is being prepared. Usually, an excavator is involved for such events, but the specifics of the site do not always allow special equipment to drive to the required place.

In such a situation, you can apply the old tried and tested method - install one ring in place and start picking up soil from under the walls with a shovel. At the same time, it is important to control the level of the location of the product. After leveling the upper cut of the element with the level of the soil, another ring is set and the sampling of the earth continues in the same way.

To make a cesspool yourself, you will need to prepare materials for the walls, a formwork board and prepare the following components:

sand and cement the desired brand for mixing the solution;
crushed stone and rubble for the manufacture of a filtration layer;
rebar or rod useful for arranging the cover;
corner or suitable hatch metal with frame;
waterproofing materials;
suitable container and buckets for mortar;
mason's tools;
plumb line, building cord and level;
set of bayonet and shovel.

When working on a large scale, you can rent or ask neighbors for a concrete mixer.

Decoration of installation sites for cesspools

It will not be difficult to disguise the sewer from prying eyes because of the layer of earth with which it is covered. After that, there are many ways to decorate - sowing a lawn, laying out flower beds, planting shrubs. sewer manholes ennobled with stone and wooden elements. The owner of the site can show all his imagination and creative ingenuity in this process.

The photos below show examples of beautiful decor.

An excellent example of the manufacture of a luxurious lid, which is equipped with a septic tank for cesspools, can be viewed on the video:

How much does it cost to make a cesspool on the site

When determining the costs for the construction of a sewer collector, one should proceed from the fact that the arrangement of a small capacity is not economically feasible. It is best to start calculating the total cost for devices from 3000 liters. Several key factors affect your financial investments. To make a cesspool whose price matches your capabilities, you should analyze the following parameters:

the cost of materials for the selected type of device;
prices for the services of specialists involved in the construction.

For example, let's take cesspool from two rings of one and a half meters in diameter. A neck is supplied with these elements, the presence of which will completely hide the main part below ground level.

If you order a turnkey installation, then the calculation includes:

A complete set of materials, including concrete preparation components, waterproofing and a manhole.
Delivery depending on the distance to the installation site.
Digging followed by backfilling of the pit.
Mounting measures for the installation of rings.
Concreting the bottom of the well.

At the moment, all these stages will cost the customer 30,900 rubles.

When performing such work on their own, professional builders recommend paying attention to the following points:

to fill a three-cube tank, about one and a half cubic meters of soil will be required. You can leave it, and take out the rest immediately after arranging the pit;
having concreted the bottom, let the mixture stand for 10-12 days to achieve optimal strength;
brickwork can not be done very smoothly. It is hidden from view and performs main function- keep the soil from shedding;
for formwork, it is best to take a profiled sheet or board;
bayoneting the mixture used to fill the ceiling contributes to a good pouring of the reinforcing cage;
carefully tamp and level the soil around the entire perimeter and on top of the well.

An extensive choice of designs allows you to build a device according to financial capabilities and needs. One of the main conditions is the observance of sanitary standards in terms of protection against environmental pollution.