Generator 220v from the engine from the washing machine. Mini hydro from an old washing machine. We make a brazier from a drum from a washing machine, photo examples

electric motor washing machine- a very valuable and useful thing. Getting it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Washing machines break down with depressing regularity. The most interesting thing is that the motor from the washing machine can be turned into a 220 volt generator. There is only one "small" problem on the way.

So, the washing machine engine has a classic commutator motor design. The device can operate on both direct and alternating current. Most motors have 6 pins on the connection block. The bottom pair is the rotor output. The middle pair is the stator winding. The top pair is for the tachometer sensor. In order for the motor to start working, some force, a small voltage, must be applied to it.

The voltage on the motor will create a magnetic field, and this in turn will create an EMF on the stator winding. All this means that wires can be connected to the rotor, which will later transfer energy from the power source. As a source of energy for the motor, you can use a 12 V battery. At the same time, to start the generator, if you need to turn it by hand.

That's what it's all about the main problem. The washing machine motor is quite suitable to be used as a generator. However, (including) due to the lack of permanent magnets, it is impossible to stably create an EMF on it. The generation of direct current requires high speeds, which can only be achieved manually. Therefore, it will be quite difficult to “attach” such a thing somewhere.

Video

In continuation of the topic, read about and not only.

An old washing machine is a real Klondike of spare parts for home master. And the desire to give them a second life is quite understandable - for example, to design a wind generator. A simple and useful device will partially solve the problem of power supply of a small object: country house, outbuilding for tools or workshop. Especially since:

• The cost of the cheapest Asian-made wind turbine model from Aliexpress is several tens of thousands of rubles. And no one can guarantee that you will be sent a serviceable and powerful device.
• A do-it-yourself wind generator from a washing machine will cost no more than 5000 rubles. The price includes all the necessary consumables, provided that you already have a faulty machine that you want to find a worthy use.

Please note that some mechanical and electrical knowledge is required to successfully assemble the device. But the output will be quite 2 - 2.5 kW, completely ready for long-term operation in the Russian climate. A couple of rooms, a small PC or a TV - the power of the device is quite enough to supply them with energy, moreover - completely free.

We select materials

The basis of the future design is the electric motor of the washing machine with a power of at least 1.5 kW. We are talking about a serviceable design, and not a burnt motor. You will also need:

• A rotor with blades that will rotate due to the force of the wind. The design of the blades is easy to make with your own hands from improvised materials: plywood, sheet metal, etc.
• A set of neodymium magnets - 32 pcs. 0.5, 1 or 2 cm.
• Reducer, "responsible" for the speed of rotation of the generator.
• A protective cover that excludes any climatic influence on external structural elements.
• A battery that carefully collects and accumulates energy for the operation of household appliances in a calm period.
• Inverter for transforming direct current into alternating current.
• Mast for installation of a structure in an open space.

If you decide to surprise your relatives with a wind generator made from a motor from a washing machine, do not rush to the nearest market for shopping. Most of the listed devices and materials are easy to find in the old household appliances, out of use and gathering dust in the basement or on the balcony. This saves you time and further reduces the cost of the future generator. The exception is neodymium magnets, which are better to order on Aliexpress or in ordinary stores selling electrical equipment and radio products. Tools that should be at hand during work: a screwdriver, scissors and pliers, as well as a drill or screwdriver, which will play the role of wind during testing of the device.

Cores are removed from the motor rotor, on which grooves are cut 5 mm deep. Then the cores are covered with a tin coating and proceed to the laying of neodymium magnets. First, they must be marked and then - sequentially laid out on a strip of tin, taking into account the mutual attraction of neighboring magnets. Fastening is carried out using a suitable superglue, which guarantees a reliable connection of metal elements.

Please note: when constructing a windmill from a washing machine engine, it is important to observe the distance between adjacent magnetic elements. The attractive force of neodymium magnets is so strong that even fastening with superglue will not be able to hold them in place. And the adhesion of elements will negatively affect the working capacity of the new generator.

You will have to work hard to create an impeller with a shank and blades. The main thing is that they rotate easily under the influence of the wind. Great solution there will be fiberglass - a dense and lightweight material that is durable and not afraid of the climatic difficulties of the Russian weather.

After laying and gluing, the tin sheet with magnets is placed on the rotor, filling the gaps with cold welding or epoxy. The final grinding of the surface with sandpaper - and the generator frame is completely ready.

For a wind generator from a pump from a washing machine, a vertical gearbox is recommended. Its main advantage is the ability to rotate freely on the mast along with the paddle design. Of course, the weight of the additional device will slow down the rotation speed somewhat. But the gearbox, which limits the number of revolutions of the blades, will “take care” that during hurricane wind the propeller did not fail.

According to the diagram below:

• the main gear 5 is put on the mast 7;
• reinforcing segments C are welded in a circle;
• bearings with gears B are put on fittings;
• small gear A is in contact with gears B;
• gear B is in contact with the teeth of the gearbox housing 11.

Checking device performance

The two wires leading to the motor winding are connected to the rectifier, and the rectifier is connected to the controller to which the battery is connected. Using a drill or screwdriver, the device is put into operation at a speed of about 1000 rpm. The voltmeter probes are connected to the battery and the resulting voltage is measured. An indicator of 200-300 V indicates the excellent performance of the device.

Please note: if the voltage level is low, a mistake was probably made when installing the magnets. If you are determined to achieve the goal and assemble a working generator, the device will have to be redone or made in a new way.

Making a mast for installing a wind turbine

A high mast will help to securely install a wind generator from a pump from a washing machine. Optimal solution – steel pipes with a diameter of about 32 mm, relatively light and durable. Several sections connected in series by welding will easily turn into a high mast about 10 m long. It is painted white or another light color and mount fasteners from the corners, securely holding the structure in vertical position. The finished mast can be placed on an “unnecessary” lighting pole or other free pole that was once installed, but has not yet found a worthy use for it. In the absence of a pole, you will have to independently think over and make a support for the mast that can withstand the weight of the working structure.

IN household it is useful to have a power source that will autonomously ensure the operation of devices in the event of power outages in the network. A do-it-yourself alternator from a washing machine engine for charging a battery will solve this problem.

How to make it from the motor of an outdated washing machine, we will tell you step by step. We note at once: for this we need, in addition to necessary materials and tools, technical knowledge and skills, patience and time. But the savings on the purchase of an industrial power generator and the resulting amenities will justify the effort.

How to convert an engine into a generator

The main difficulty lies in the alteration of the rotor from induction motor direct drive. Consider this using the example of the Vyatka washing machine with a capacity of 180 watts.

You will need:

• pliers;
• Screwdriver Set;
• locksmith scissors;
• cold welding;
• lathe;
• rectifier;
• neodymium magnets - 32 pieces, sizes 5, 10 and 20 mm (buy through the online store);
• tin;
• glue;
• sandpaper;
• scotch;
• epoxy resin;
• protective glasses.

Remove the rotor from the removed and disassembled electric motor of the washing machine. On a lathe, cut the core to a depth of 2 mm and cut grooves 5 mm deep for the magnets according to their dimensions.

For a homemade template, cut a strip of tin according to the circumference according to the size of the entire part. Using the template, mark out the rotor to evenly place the magnets. 8 pieces will go to one pole (and there will be 4 in total). Carefully and carefully with superglue or cold welding, secure in place.

Wrap everything with several layers of paper, securing it with tape. Cut a hole to fill with epoxy. After hardening, remove the shell. Sand the surface on the machine with sandpaper.

Install the part in the motor stator.

The peculiarity of the generator is that it rotates at a higher speed than the engine. To solve this problem, use a tachometer to determine the number of revolutions of your collector engine. Add 10 percent to the result. To achieve the calculated indicator, select capacitors of the appropriate capacity. They must be single phase. Keep in mind that a squirrel-cage device gives more high voltage. To get 220 volts at the output, use a step-down transformer.

Testing

Produced by a generator made of a collector motor, the current is supplied to the battery. It is connected to the charge controller and the module. By using a DC voltage inverter from the network, it converts it to AC for power household appliances. To find out if your product gives the necessary 220 volts and 50 hertz, you need to test.

You need:

1. battery;
2. rectifier;
3. controller;
4. tester.

After ringing the outputs of the motor winding with an ampervoltmeter, find two active ones after the alteration. Cut off the old ones.

Connect the found contacts through the rectifier to the controller. And the last one is with the battery terminals.

Connect the drill to the rotor with an adapter and turn it on for 1000 revolutions. Measure the voltage at the battery input with a tester. If everything is done and assembled correctly, it will be the desired one - 220 volts.

Important! Check winding sticking. If it is large, the generator power will be low.

Application possibilities

So, I managed to create my own generator. Savings at the same time, according to the most conservative estimates, will amount to more than 4,000 rubles. Indeed, in the distribution network it costs from 6,000, and you will spend only on the purchase of magnets (1,200–1,400 rubles). The scope of use of the unit, which gives up to 2 kilowatts of power, depends on your imagination and desire. Can be illuminated country house by connecting to the motor of a motorcycle or chainsaw.

Homemade products from the engine from the washing machine (video selection, photos, diagrams)

1. How to connect the motor from an old washing machine with or without a capacitor

Not all "washer" motors will work with a capacitor.

There are 2 main types of engines:
- with capacitor start (constantly switched on capacitor)
- with starting relay.
As a rule, "capacitor" motors have three winding outputs, power 100 -120 W and revolutions 2700 - 2850 (motors of centrifuges of washing machines).

And engines with a "start relay" have 4 outputs, a power of 180 W and a speed of 1370 - 1450 (washing machine activator drive)

Connecting a "capacitor" motor through the start button may result in loss of power.
And the use of a constantly on capacitor in a motor designed for a starting relay can lead to burnout of the windings!

2. Homemade emery from the engine of a washing machine

Today we are going to talk about transformation. asynchronous motor from the washing machine to the generator. In general, I have been interested in this issue for a long time, but there was no particular desire to remake the electric motor, since at that time I did not see the scope of the generator. Since the beginning of the year, work has been going on on a new model of the ski lift. Having your own lift is a good thing, but riding with music is much more fun, so I quickly got the idea to make such a generator so that I can use it on the slope in winter to charge the battery.

I had three electric motors from the washing machine in store, and two of them are absolutely serviceable. Here I decided to convert one of these asynchronous electric motors into a generator.

Looking ahead a little, I will say that the idea is not mine and not new. I will only describe the process of converting an induction motor into a generator.

The electric motor of a washing machine with a capacity of 180 watts, manufactured in China in the early 90s of the last century, was taken as a basis.

I ordered magnets from NPK Magnets and Systems LLC, before I had already bought magnets during the construction of a wind farm. Neodymium magnets, magnet size 20x10x5. The cost of 32 pieces of magnets with delivery is 1240 rubles.

Alteration of the rotor consisted in removing the core layer (deepening). Neodymium magnets will be installed in the resulting recess. At the beginning, 2 mm of the core was removed on a lathe - a protrusion above the side cheeks. Then a 5 mm recess was made for neodymium magnets. The result of the alteration of the rotor can be seen in the photo.

Having measured the circumference of the resulting rotor, the necessary calculations were made, after which a strip template was made from tin. Using a template, the rotor was divided into equal parts. Neodymium magnets will then be glued between the risks.

8 magnets were used per pole. In total, 4 poles turned out on the rotor. With the help of a compass and a marker, all the magnets were marked for convenience. Magnets were glued to the rotor with “Superglue”. Let me tell you, it's hard work. The magnets are very strong, I had to hold them tightly when gluing. There were moments when the magnets came off, pinched fingers, and glue flew into the eyes. Therefore, you need to glue magnets with the use of goggles.

I decided to fill the cavity between the magnets with epoxy resin. To do this, the rotor with magnets was wrapped in several layers of paper. The paper is secured with tape. End faces for additional sealing are smeared with plasticine. A hole has been cut into the shell. A neck is made of plasticine around the hole. Epoxy resin was poured into the hole in the shell.

After curing epoxy resin, the shell has been removed. The rotor is clamped in the chuck drilling machine for further processing. Grinding was carried out with medium grit sandpaper.

There are 4 wires coming out of the motor. I found a working winding, and cut off the wires from the starting winding. I installed new bearings, because the old ones rotated a little tight. The bolts tightening the body are also new.

The rectifier is assembled on D242 diodes, the SOLAR controller, bought a few years ago on Ebay, is used as a charging controller.

Tests of the generator can be viewed on the video.

To charge the battery, 3-5 turns of the generator are enough. At the maximum speed of the drill, it was possible to squeeze out 273 Volts from the generator. Alas, sticking is decent, so it makes no sense to put such a generator on a windmill. Unless the windmill will be with a large propeller or gearbox.

The generator will stand on the ski lift. Tests in field conditions already this winter.

Source www.konstantin.in

4. Connecting and adjusting the speed of the collector motor from the automatic washing machine

Regulator manufacturing:

Regulator setting:

Regulator test:

Regulator in Bulgarian:

Download:

5. Pottery wheel from the washing machine

6. Lathe from a washing machine

How to make a headstock lathe on wood from a motor from a washing machine. and a speed controller with power maintenance.

7. Wood splitter with a washing machine engine

The smallest single-phase, screw splitter with a 600 W washing machine motor. with speed stabilizer
Operating speed: 1000-8000 rpm.

8. Homemade concrete mixer

A simple home-made concrete mixer, consists of: a barrel of 200 liters, an engine from a washing machine, a disk from a classic Zhiguli, a gearbox made from a Cossack generator, a big driven pulley from a fairy washing machine, small self-pointing pulleys, a drum pulley made from the same disk.

Prepared and put together: Maximan

Clean energy derived from natural resources is one of the most popular topics today. Imagine that in your country house or country house there is a generator that feeds all the resources of your household with free electricity. It can be a wind turbine or a hydro turbine, it doesn't matter. Do you think these are all fairy tales? Not at all.
In fact, these are technical developments that are not so difficult and expensive to implement at home with your own hands.
One of these options based on a brushless DC motor, we want to present today. The author proposes to remount such an engine from a washing machine into a generator, soldering the leading stator coils in a special way. After such alteration, the engine can be used for a wind turbine. And if it is equipped with a water intake device like a Pelton turbine, then it is possible to build a hydroelectric generator.

Necessary materials and tools

As you probably already understood, today we only need the engine itself from the washing machine. The author used a DC inverter motor from the American Fisher & Paykel washing machine. Such engines are used in their products by LG, which is present in our domestic market.
We will also need:

• Soldering iron, flux and solder;
• Hot glue;
• Fine-grained sandpaper - zero.

Tools: wire cutters, pliers, paint knife.

Starting to rebuild the engine

To work, it will be necessary to dismantle the engine from the machine body. It consists of three main parts:

• Stator - a round platform with driving winding coils located along the outer edge of the circle;
• The rotor is a plastic or metal cover with a plastic core. Permanent magnets are placed along the perimeter of its inner wall;
• Shaft - the central part of the engine, equipped with bearings to transfer kinetic energy to the drum of the washing machine.
  We will work directly with the starter.

Stator preparation

We place the engine platform on the table, and get to work. Our goal is to solder the phase connections according to a different scheme than the original (photo).

For convenience, you can mark groups of 3 coils with a marker. We cut each of the 6 coil outputs with wire cutters according to the diagram.

The cut edges must be bent with a screwdriver or by hand, so that it will be more convenient to work with them later.

We clean each contact with fine-grained sandpaper to improve soldering.

When everything is ready and cleared of debris, we connect together every second group of three contacts. Strengthen hand twisting with pliers.

With a soldering iron, we tin the twist with the help of a flux, and solder it with tin solder. We open the twist, and solder it with reverse side. We do the same with the rest of the contacts. As a result, we should get seven twists.

Phase loop

We clean the contact group used to supply power to the engine.

Now you need to loop the remaining 3 phases. We select the ring for the first phase. We make it from a piece of copper multicore cable. We mark and cut it to the size of the inner circumference of the platform.

We expose the insulation at the junctions with free contacts, and clean them with sandpaper. We begin to solder the ring from the contact group, passing each of the seven, ending with the last contact. For a reliable connection, we tie the end of the contact on the ring.

We loop the second and third phases by analogy with the first. Care must be taken not to solder adjacent contacts to each other.