Drain pipe. Laying drainage pipes: we select and install corrugated perforated lines with geotextile Laying a drainage pipe with geotextile with our own hands

Why is drainage needed?

Before enjoying outdoor recreation, the owner of the land must make a lot of efforts to improve it. A large number of land plots outside the city limits are characterized by waterlogging of the soil.

To get rid of excess moisture on the site, a drainage structure is created, which is an outflow of liquid artificially laid in the soil, consisting of a system of channels or pipelines. Once in them, the water moves towards specially equipped storage wells and reservoirs or is discharged outside the local area.

In practice, the owner of the site should be alerted by a number of signs of the presence of excess moisture, which indicate the need to equip drainage:

growth on the site of a large number of moisture-loving plants;
periodic appearance or constant presence in the basements and cellars of buildings ground water;
the formation of poorly drying puddles after rain.

But as practice shows, the absence of the above signs does not indicate that there are no problems with waterlogging and that they will not appear in the future. The best solution may be to consult a specialist who will determine the degree of soil moisture in the area and the need for drainage work.

Drainage system options

When deciding how to lay drainage pipes, you should be aware of the existence of several ways to create drainage structures:

Creation of trenches with gravel and sand. drainage system closed type- these are ditches and trenches dug in the ground, which are filled with a layer of rubble, and sand is placed on top. Often on personal plots they use an effective design called a "herringbone" - secondary pipelines are brought to the central highway.

Installation of perforated pipes

Before the installation of drainage pipes, calculations are made and building materials are selected.

seasonal groundwater level;
soil characteristics and soil structure;
the volume of moisture in the form of flood waters and precipitation.

All this information can be requested from the regional office of land resources. Based on the data obtained, specialists will make calculations and find out the required trench depth and pipe parameters.

When laying drainage pipes with your own hands, preference should be given to plastic products. The device of plastic pipes is simple - they have two layers of polyethylene or PVC, so that the products will last at least 50 years even if they are installed at great depths.

The procedure for laying drainage pipes with your own hands

The creation of a drainage structure begins with the marking of the territory, according to a pre-compiled scheme. Then they dig trenches with a depth that was established during the calculations. To determine their width, 40 centimeters are added to the outer diameter of the pipes. Also, do not forget about the slope of the drainage pipe about 3 °.

Pipes wrapped with geofabric are laid on a pillow. The connection of drainage pipes is carried out using special couplings.

At the final stage, backfilling is performed - performing all the steps in reverse order. On top of the pipes, crushed stone, sand and soil, previously taken out of the ditch, are poured in layers. Sod is laid on top, if desired.

discrepancy between the depth of the dug trench and the needs of the system, which may result in a violation of the water balance on personal plot;
use of drainage pipes of the wrong type that should have been used. As a result, the constructed structure will quickly fail;
incorrectly made angle of inclination of the drainage. This leads to incorrect operation of the system, and on the ground there are serious problems with the observance of the water regime.

If the laying of drainage pipes can be done independently, then entrust the calculations and drawing up the scheme to specialists. Doing enough simple job, it is necessary to follow the instructions, paying special attention to the angle of inclination of the system, the reliability of the connection of the elements, the correct arrangement of the manholes.

Laying drainage pipes with your own hands: installation, how to lay, laying drainage pipes with geotextiles, connection technology, photo and video examples

Do-it-yourself drainage pipe: step-by-step laying technology + analysis of the nuances of organizing drainage

Drainage is a piping system designed to drain excess fluid from a site. It must be equipped if underground aquifers come too close to the surface or there is a risk of flooding the area during spring floods.

Let's understand the system construction technology: how the drainage pipe should be laid with your own hands, what tools and materials will be required for this.

When the site needs drainage

Drainage is an expensive system, even if you do not have to pay for the services of specialists and the owner of the site is ready to do all the work on his own. Therefore, you should figure out how much it is generally needed.

The need for a system cannot be determined “by eye”, because groundwater can lie close to the surface, which becomes a real problem only during floods or heavy rains.

Many areas are located in the lowlands. Waterlogged soil causes root rot, which creates many difficulties in caring for the garden and garden. Plants are often affected fungal diseases, "eats" the mold. Some crops do not take root in wet soil, and the crop rots in the bud.

Dense clay soils do not absorb water well. This leads to frequent flooding of the underground parts of buildings. Due to the high degree of mineralization, ground and atmospheric waters negatively affect buildings: destroy building materials, provoke corrosion. Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to 100% prevent basements, foundations, plinths from getting wet. As a result, buildings serve much less than they could.

You can determine whether drainage is needed on the site by several signs:

Terrain relief. Sites located in lowlands and on steep slopes need a drainage system. Otherwise fertile soils can be washed away or flooded during rains and floods.
Puddles. The flat terrain is convenient for construction, but puddles can appear and remain for a long time. This is a clear sign that water is poorly absorbed into the soil. A drainage system should be installed throughout the site.
Rotting of the root system of plants. If excess liquid remains in vegetable gardens, flower beds and lawns, the plants will rot and get sick.
moisture loving plants. If one or more types of moisture-loving plants grow on the site, this clearly indicates waterlogging of the soil.
Flooding of basements and cellars. An obvious "symptom" of the need for drainage is the flooding of foundations and underground building structures.
Hydrogeological research and observations. If experts have determined that the site has a high GWL, or similar conclusions can be reached during earthworks, you should take care of the drainage of the soil.

Proper laying of drainage pipes on the site with your own hands is the only way to inexpensively and effectively get rid of excess water. If you contact a specialized company, the system will cost significantly more. It is better to understand the features of the arrangement of drainage and do everything yourself.

How is the drainage system

Soil drainage can be deep and superficial. In the first case, the system is designed to drain groundwater if it floods the site. In the second, drainage provides a decrease in soil moisture during the flood and rainy season. Both types of systems can be designed and assembled by hand.

Depending on whether it is necessary to collect moisture from the entire site or only from certain zones, linear or point drainages are equipped. Systems of the first type require careful design; when arranging them, it is necessary to strictly observe the laying technology and the slope angle of the drainage pipes.

IN linear systems there is a need if you need to drain the areas around buildings, paths, entrances, ennoble adjoining territory or remove excess moisture from the garden. Drains are shallow ditches where water flows and then moves to special receiving tanks, storm sewers or to an off-site discharge point.

Point collectors do not need to be accurately calculated and prepared diagrams. They serve for local drainage and are located on flat areas, in recesses. Therefore, there is no need for a large amount of excavation, and much less materials are required for arranging a point system than for a linear one.

Open systems are very simple to implement and cheap, but they spoil the landscape with an unaesthetic appearance. Another disadvantage is that the walls of the ditches have to be constantly corrected, because. they crumble under the influence of moisture, and the system ceases to perform its functions (water stagnates at the bottom of the trenches and does not move to the place of discharge).

To solve the problem of shedding the walls of the ditches, you can use the method of backfilling with crushed stone: a large fraction material is laid on the bottom, and a fine fraction on top, after which the entire drainage cushion is covered with turf. This option allows you not to trim or strengthen the walls of the trenches, but it is suitable for areas with relatively low humidity, because. the carrying capacity of the ditch is greatly reduced.

For the arrangement of a closed system, special trays-water collectors made of concrete or polymer materials. They are covered with gratings on top to drain water. Such a device helps prevent shedding of the soil, and dirt and debris do not get inside the structures. In most cases, site owners prefer light polymer tanks, because. they are easy to install and durable.

When determining how to properly lay the drainage pipe to protect the plants from excess moisture, you can use the average values. As a rule, the optimal depth is 0.6-1.5 m. Moreover, for flower beds, lawns, beds, it does not exceed 0.9 m, and to protect the rhizomes of trees, it is necessary to dig the deepest trenches, especially if the site is located on peat soils.

Types and options for choosing drainage pipes

Of all the materials for the manufacture of pipes, polymers are the most popular. Their undeniable advantages are durability, resistance to chemicals and smooth inner walls, which do not stick to dirt. Stormwater and groundwater drain into the pipeline and freely move to the water collectors by gravity.

Drainage system made from modern materials capable of serving up to half a century. The main thing is to mount it correctly, conduct technical inspections on time and not ignore the need for repairs. Another advantage of polymers is that they are relatively high price, because ready-made drainage is inexpensive, practical and durable.

An excellent solution is a pipe in a geotextile sheath. The outer material filters water while retaining dirt. Due to this, the pipelines do not silt. An alternative to drainage pipes is ordinary sewer pipes. From them you can make a drainage with your own hands. To do this, simply drill holes in the products, and wrap them with geotextile fabric on top.

If a local drainage system is required, pipes with a diameter of 100-200 mm can be dispensed with, and if it is necessary to remove moisture from a large area or there is too much water, it is better to choose products with a diameter of 300-400 mm. The best choice is a special drainage pipe with a filter shell.

Drainage pipeline laying technology

When arranging drainage, the relief of the site is of fundamental importance. The system must be built in such a way that there are no problems with the outflow of fluid into the ditches. If there are no results of geodetic studies, you should independently draw up a diagram, marking on it the places where rainwater drains.

When creating a circuit, you need to be careful, because. errors will cause drainage to be ineffective. According to the finished drawing, they outline how to lay and tilt the drainage pipe and where to install the water collectors. After checking the data, markup is carried out on the ground and work begins.

The pipeline leads to a drainage well. If it is long and located on a flat area, manholes are equipped at each segment of 50 m. They are also needed in places where the pipeline turns and bends, where the slope changes.

A drainage well can also be built with your own hands. It consists of a bottom, a shaft with a neck and a hatch. The dimensions of the well should be large enough so that a person can descend into it and clean it of silt. If it is not possible to equip an overall well, then it should be equipped in such a way that it is possible to wash the walls with a hose and scoop out the dirt.

Concrete, plastic, brick can be used as materials for the manufacture of wells.

The strongest and most durable structures are made of reinforced concrete well rings. They have a large diameter, they are easy to maintain. Minus - difficulties with installation due to the large mass. As a rule, you have to attract assistants or use special equipment.

Do-it-yourself drainage pipe laying technology

The nuances of the technology of laying a drainage pipe with your own hands. Features of the choice of drainage pipes and arrangement of the system. Drainage Installation Instructions

Drainage pipes: do it yourself

The increased humidity of the site is always a source of big problems for the owners. Wet soil destroys plants - due to insufficient oxygen supply, roots rot and almost the entire crop is destroyed. Not in the best way feel and buildings. The foundations become damp, water appears in the basements in the spring, the walls are covered with a network of cracks and colonies of fungus.

Excess moisture can be easily removed with the help of special engineering structures known as drainage. The owners should pay attention to the arrangement of the drainage system in the first place immediately after the acquisition of the site. And preferably before large-scale construction works if any are planned.

How and why drainage works

An artificially constructed watercourse is a system of underground pipelines and surface channels for collecting water. Moisture enters special containers, and then is removed outside the site.

It is possible to determine whether a site needs drainage by indirect signs. The high moisture content of the soil is evidenced by:

the presence of moisture-loving plants (for example, nettles);
flooding of cellars and cellars;
long drying of the site after rain (large puddles remain, from which water does not drain well).

But even in the absence of such warning signs, structures are not immune to water damage. For example, during heavy rains or during active snowmelt. For this reason, experts recommend, in any case, to install drainage around the foundation with their own hands and equip storm drains.

The main advantage of this type of drainage systems is the exclusion of expensive treatment facilities and other technical units. The complete system consists of:

from drainage pipes;
storm drains (gutters and storm water inlets);
sand traps - special mechanical filters at the inlet to the system collector;
common drainage wells;
a collector with a check valve (from here the water is discharged into the ground or a reservoir).

How to choose pipes

The main element of the system is the pipeline. For this reason, special attention is paid to the choice of pipes or drains, as they are more commonly called. Experts recommend paying attention to the following technical specifications.

Manufacturers offer products made of asbestos cement, polyethylene (with perforation) and polyvinyl chloride (perforation can be done by hand). Asbestos cement is the cheapest material. However, there are serious doubts about its environmental safety. That's why everything more buyers opts for products made of durable plastic.

Ready-made perforated drains are sold in a geotextile wrapper. Cheaper PVC pipes require additional processing - cuts are made in a checkerboard pattern up to 5 mm wide. Processing is carried out on both sides. The distance between the cuts is 50 centimeters. Additionally, you will need to purchase a geofabric to wrap the pipe before laying it in the ground. The fabric serves as a filter and prevents liquid dirt from clogging the perforated pipes.

The diameter is selected depending on the amount of groundwater and precipitation.

Usually the diameter is from 5 to 8 centimeters.

Soil type

Soil type is one of the most important parameters when choosing pipes:

In soils with a high content of crushed stone, perforated products are laid, but without a geotextile filter.
Sandstones use geotextile-wrapped pipes with perforations. Additionally, it is recommended to make a sprinkling of crushed stone to prevent deformation of the pipeline.
Perforated products with a coconut fiber filter are mounted in clay soil. A cheaper option is to use geotextile. Be sure to make a backfill of crushed stone, covering the pipeline by 15-20 centimeters.
For loam, perforated pipes wrapped with geotextile are used.

In any soil, you can also use ordinary PVC pipes with homemade perforations and geotextile winding. This will greatly reduce the cost of the drainage system.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

shovel and bayonet shovel;
garden wheelbarrow for soil;
manual roller for compacting sand and gravel;
mounting knife for cutting pipes;
drill or grinder, if you want to make notches (perforation);
scissors for geotextile.

You should also prepare building materials:

pipes;
adapters for manholes and collector;
fittings for pipe installation;
plastic pipes with a diameter of 30 to 50 cm for arranging inspection and drainage wells (you can also
purchase ready-made wells with a hatch or plastic tanks);
geofabric in rolls;
crushed stone or gravel, sand.

Work order

Drains are laid in the following order:

trenches are dug along the marking line, their depth should be below the freezing point of the soil;
a plan is drawn up and marking is carried out on the ground;
a layer of sand up to 10 centimeters thick is poured onto the bottom and carefully compacted with a skating rink;
crushed stone or gravel is laid on top (layer thickness 20 cm);
pipes are laid on the prepared pillow;
the system is mounted using couplings, and then the angle of inclination of the pipes towards the water collectors is checked;
at the joints and turns of the pipes, manholes are equipped (a piece of plastic pipe is cut off, a protective cover is mounted);
backfilling is performed - a layer of crushed stone, sand, soil is laid out sequentially;
on top, you can lay turf or sow herbaceous plants;
at the end of the outlet pipe after the collector, a check valve is mounted or a well is arranged to collect water (a sealed plastic tank is used).

Highlights when laying

The drainage system must comply technical requirements. Self-activity in this matter is not welcome. For this reason, owners should pay attention to some important points:

To carry out the work, it will be necessary to create a vertical plan of the site, taking into account the occurrence of groundwater in a particular area. Specialists will help to compile it for a fee.
The exact depth of the pipeline, its diameter and type are calculated. At this stage, you will also need the help of specialists.
When digging a trench, make sure that its size is approximately 40 centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipes used. The slope of the trench is from three degrees (from 0.5 to 1 meter slope).
Manholes are located no closer than fifty meters from each other.
Installing a check valve or arranging a water collector is a prerequisite for the proper functioning of the entire system.

Common Mistakes

Most common mistakes when arranging a drainage system, the following:

shallow depth of trenches (decrease in system efficiency and increased risk of drains freezing in winter);
the use of pipes of the wrong type and diameter (leads to a quick failure of the system);
lack of an angle of inclination or a small angle (the operation of the system is paralyzed at maximum load).

Installation drainage system- work that the owners of the house can do. However, it is better to entrust the preparation of a plan and carrying out all the necessary calculations to specialists.

Also, special attention is paid to compliance with all technical standards. The selection of pipes, the depth and angle of their laying are important points in the installation work.

Maintenance

Even a properly installed and well-functioning drainage system requires regular maintenance. Maintenance. Inspections of drainage and manholes are carried out once or twice a year. Owners should be alert low level water, which may indicate:

clogging of drains;
about the appearance of a leak in the pipeline;
about the silting of the drainage well.

Sludge is the easiest to deal with. To do this, it is necessary to clean the drainage runoff using a fecal pump with a float shut-off mechanism. Such a unit will automatically cope with polluted water containing large impurities.

Flushing of drains is carried out with special equipment. To solve the problem with clogging of the system, you need to contact the experts.

Proper laying of drainage pipes with your own hands - highlights and typical mistakes

Laying drainage pipes: purpose of drainage, selection of drainage pipes, tools and materials, installation procedure, common mistakes, system maintenance

Most effective way to protect the foundation of a private house from the destructive effects of ground and storm water is a high-quality drainage system. What is especially important when water accumulates in upper layers soil, as it can provoke flooding of the basement or basement, moisture and deformation of the walls, as well as the occurrence of fungal formations. The article will discuss how to lay drainage pipes.

Pipes for the drainage system, which are installed around the entire perimeter of the site, allow you to create a high-quality drainage system. After all, the danger of flooding is not only groundwater, but also floodwaters. Damage can also be caused by precipitation that exceeds permissible limits.

Drainage pipe photo

Unlike foundation waterproofing, the drainage system can be laid even after the construction of the house, if there are grounds for this. But under certain conditions, it is better to install at the initial stage of construction. This requires the following reasons:

the gently sloping location of the site, contributing to a significant accumulation of water;
clay and loamy soil, which have poor culvert characteristics;
statistics of exceeding the level of precipitation characteristic of the area in which the building is located;
elevated groundwater level (less than 1.5 meters to the ground surface).

In addition, it is worth focusing on the depth of construction of the remaining buildings on the site. The presence of a deep foundation next to the main building not only prevents the natural outflow of groundwater, but also contributes to its accumulation, thereby increasing the risk of flooding. A barrier to the free circulation of water are also concrete blind areas equipped on the site and asphalt pavement. In such a case, it is considered competent to connect storm drains to the main drainage system.

To prevent the consequences of changes in the level of groundwater and the accumulation of moisture in the soil around the building, laying a drainage pipe will allow.

Types of drainage systems

There are two main options for designing a drainage system:

Open (surface)- used to remove excess moisture that has arisen due to the accumulation of precipitation or melt water. The open drainage system is presented in the form of ditches and trenches.
Closed (deep)- in laying pipes with perforation are used, which are laid to a certain depth in a previously prepared trench. The main function is to drain groundwater and protect the foundation of the house.

Materials required for laying a closed drainage system

The process of installing a drainage system is quite laborious and requires thorough preparation. From bulk building materials will need:

Sand. In drainage works, river sand is mainly used. His main function is to create a filtration cushion around the drainage pipe.
rubble. To equip the system, you will need a medium and large fraction. The purpose of crushed stone is to form a stable layer to prevent the penetration of dirt and large parts of the soil. In addition, crushed stone prevents excessive soil pressure on the corrugated pipe.

drainage pumps. They are used only in case of significant flooding of the site with groundwater. Contribute to mechanical drainage;
drainage pipes. With their help, the main drainage system is formed. The number and diameter depends on the complexity of the bookmark scheme. Most often, plastic pipes are used for drainage;
geotextile- protects the drainage pipe from soil contamination. As a rule, interlining or dornite is used. In addition to strength, both types of textiles have a filtering ability;
couplers- necessary for attaching drainage pipes to each other.

As a rule, the drainage system needs periodic cleaning; for this, manholes are installed along its perimeter. And to collect water in the system, a collector well is mounted.

Selection of drainage pipes

Before starting the installation of the drainage system, special attention should be paid to the choice of pipes for work. The first thing to consider is the use of perforated pipes in the arrangement of the drainage system. The second is the diameter and the presence of holes for the outflow of moisture and air exchange. And no less important point is the material from which the pipes are made.

Currently, the following types of pipes are presented on the building materials market:

The most popular in the arrangement of the drainage system are polymer drainage pipes. Their advantage over other species is as follows.

Long service life - up to 70 years.
High levels of strength.
Resistance to corrosion processes and exposure to aggressive environments.
Reduced weight indicators that simplify the process of transportation and installation.
Self-cleaning ability due to smooth surface.
Silt resistance.
Value for money.
Ease of maintenance. Thanks to the geotextile filter, the system does not need to be flushed.

Drain pipe diameter:

up to 150 mm - for a drainage system that drains a small amount of water;
up to 300 mm - for systems with a high load.

For an extensive drainage system, you will need pipes of both small (for branches) and large diameter (for the main branch of the system).

Plastic drainage pipes

Polymer pipes, which are usually used for laying drainage systems, are made of PVC, polypropylene or polyethylene and are represented by the following types:

single layer or double layer. The choice of the number of layers depends on the density of the soil;
flexible and rigid. Rigid pipes are applicable for simple drainage schemes, while flexible pipes allow you to create complex branching throughout the site;
pipes with or without filter jacket. As a rule, drainage pipes already have holes along their entire length. But if there are no special holes in the purchased material, you can make them yourself with a drill and a thin drill;
corrugated or smooth.

As for geofabric coverage, as a rule, samples already covered with filter textiles are presented on the building materials market. When buying uncoated pipes, their surface can be wrapped independently by securing the material with a rope or thin wire around the perimeter of the pipe.

Drainage pipe laying design

Before starting work on the installation of a drainage system, it is worthwhile to first draw up a plan for its location on the site.

This requires taking into account the type of soil and the height of groundwater. The branched scheme is most often used, at the junctions of which manholes are installed.
The distance between the branches directly depends on the type of soil. For clay soil, it is 10 meters, for loamy soil - 20 meters, with sandy soil type - 45 meters.

Laying drainage pipes with your own hands

First you need to determine the location of the drainage system. There are only two accommodation options:

"wall" drainage - passes only near the foundation of the house and prevents moisture from entering directly into the building itself;

a drainage system located around the entire perimeter of the site protects not only the basement of the building, but also other outbuildings and plantings located on the territory.

The first step is to mark the site for the placement of drainage ditches. To facilitate the process, you can use a special laser rangefinder. Particular attention should be paid to places where moisture accumulates after rain - this means that water exchange is difficult in this area due to the density of the soil or the presence of obstacles.
Trench. The recess under the drainage trench must be carried out taking into account the height differences. The main task of the prepared ditch system is the rapid and unhindered outflow of water.

Tip: during work, you can use a watering hose by running a certain amount of water - make sure that water does not accumulate in certain parts of the trench.

Before installing drainage pipes, the bottom of the trench must be carefully tamped. Then any filter material is laid, while its ends should extend beyond the trench. Next, river sand and crushed stone are poured, first large, then medium fraction, to a thickness of no more than 20 cm.
Drainage pipes are cut according to the dimensions of the scheme, using a jigsaw or special device- pipe cutter. Next, start laying pipes, connecting the joints with fittings. In order for the junction to be strong, it is necessary to dock the parts after preheating the docking sections.
Pipes must be carefully wrapped with geotextile, securing the joints with a rope or thin wire. The choice of such a material is not accidental, since it must pass the water coming out of the perforation. In addition to the throughput, the function of geotextiles is to protect the perforations of the pipe from clogging.

Pipe laying must be done at a slope, connecting the ends to manholes. Two types of wells can be used in the system: sealed, allowing the use of collected water for technical purposes, and absorbing - the water will go back into the soil. The slope of the drainage pipes depends on its diameter, the larger it is, the less slope is needed.
The next step in the installation of drainage pipes will be filling the surface with crushed stone and sand. After that, the structure is wrapped with sheets of filter material located on the surface and covered with a layer of soil.

Maintenance of the drainage system

In arranging the site with a drainage system, not only its thoughtful and high-quality installation is important, but also compliance with the operating rules. This will extend the life of the system for as long as possible.

Approximately once every four years, it is mandatory to inspect the condition of pipes and wells, as a preventive measure. In addition, once every two years it is worth measuring the water level in the wells, its significant change may indicate the following factors:

damage to the integrity of the pipe;
the formation of a dense blockage;
the growth of silt deposits on the entire surface of the pipe;
partial settlement of the pipeline due to soil movement.

In order to avoid such problems, it is necessary to timely inspect the drainage system and clean it from various kinds of pollution.

Errors in the laying of the drainage pipe

The effectiveness of drainage directly depends on the quality of the installation. Any violations during operation contribute to the disabling of the system. In the best case, you can repair the damaged area, in the worst case, you will have to completely reinstall the drainage system.

The most common mistakes include:

selection of the pipeline system without taking into account the quality of the soil. For example: on loamy soil it is not recommended to use pipes without a filtration system;
violations associated with a change or absence of the angle of inclination of the drainage system;
initially, the option of draining water from the well was not provided;
the technology for arranging drainage pipes is not observed - the installation was made without filtering dumping of crushed stone and sand;
lack of geotextiles and filter material;
poor-quality soldering of pipes;
no perforation.

Choosing the type of drainage system, it is necessary to be based on the location of the site and the quality of the soil. For self-arrangement of drainage, it is necessary to plan in advance the layout of the drainage. When choosing materials, preference should be given to the most practical and durable. These include plastic corrugated pipes with perforation. Observing all the stages of laying the drainage system, you can get a high-quality drainage system. In addition, drainage guarantees the protection of the basement or basement of the house from the harmful effects of groundwater.

Drain pipe laying: step-by-step instruction, Construction portal

The most effective way to protect the foundation of a private house from the destructive effects of groundwater and storm water is a high-quality drainage system. What is especially important when collecting

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Drainage system device

The correct arrangement of the drainage system is very simple: in the selected area, it is necessary to make special trenches into which pipes are laid to collect water. All collected moisture through pipes that have different diameters is discharged into a storage tank, reservoir, river.

The peculiarity of such a system is that treatment facilities and expensive installations are not required for its creation.

In addition to pipes having different diameters, the drainage system includes manholes for maintaining the entire system. At the same time, the laying scheme, material, and pipe diameter are determined when planning drainage.

Do-it-yourself drainage system for suburban area involves the use of some materials that are mandatory. Among them:

sand and gravel;
piece of geotextile (if the type of soil requires the installation of just such a filter);
pipes of the selected type, the choice of which depends on the soil and the characteristics of the laying;
manholes will require a concrete or plastic pipe (the amount depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe system).

The tools for work are the most minimal: a shovel for digging a trench, a building level, a measuring tape, wheelbarrows for sand and gravel.

Drainage trench and manholes at their summer cottage

To lay a drainage pipe, it is necessary to properly dig a trench, otherwise the drainage will cause a lot of inconvenience and will not work effectively. The layout of the system, the depth of its occurrence is determined by the project, which must be drawn up by a specialist.

The trench device is as follows:

first, digging is carried out to the required depth, the width of the trench should be 40 cm more;
after this, sand and gravel are poured to create a laying cushion. It is often recommended to lay geotextiles;
the slope of the trench should be about 3 ° so that water can not only enter the pipe, but also drain down it.

The drainage device largely depends on such circumstances as the depth of groundwater, the freezing point of the soil, and the characteristics of the site itself.

For the area where the drainage system is located, it is necessary to provide for the presence of manholes for maintenance. Their device assumes the presence of a well along the route and in bends, the distance to each should be no more than 40-50 m or about 20 m in bends.

Such wells have a round or rectangular shape, their device includes reinforced concrete rings, other materials that are resistant to moisture. Installation does not require waterproofing, the device should not be sealed. The main task is to provide observation, maintenance of the drainage system, supply water for washing under pressure, and prevent silting.

The filter drain pipe should be laid in a drainage ditch min 60 cm wide

If the drainage system for the site has a laying depth of up to 3 m, then a plastic pipe can be used as a manhole. The diameter of such a pipe should be about 30-50 cm. It is best to take products intended for pressure sewage, corrugated, although you can also take smooth ones that have the appropriate diameter.

Drainage pipes: what to choose?

To make a drainage system for the site, you will first have to choose the right pipes. Today, asbestos-cement, polyethylene pipelines are used for this. Their diameter, as a rule, is from 50 to 80 mm. You can also purchase PVC pipes and make perforations on them to drain water with your own hands. Such perforation is performed by cuts on both sides of the pipe, always in a checkerboard pattern. The width of each cut should be 3-5 mm, the length should be half the value that the diameter has.

The distance between perforations is 500 mm. Sometimes, instead of cuts, holes with a diameter of 4-5 mm are made, their location is exactly the same, but the distance between them should be up to 100 mm.

Before laying pipes, it is necessary to choose their type and material of manufacture correctly. The selection is carried out taking into account the soil and laying conditions. There are four types of soil, including sandy, clay, gravel, loamy. So, in order to make drainage, you can use these types of pipes:

For crushed stone soil, pipes without a perforated filter layer should be selected.
In the presence of sandy soils, drainage can be made from pipes with a geotextile filter, which will prevent the system from becoming contaminated and clogged with sand. It is best to additionally sprinkle rubble around the pipe.
For clay soil, two options can be used: special pipes with coconut fiber filters and pipes without a filter, which are sprinkled with crushed stone and wrapped in geotextiles. To make drainage, it is necessary to lay the system in the ground, but pour a layer of crushed stone with a thickness of about 20 cm on top.
For loam, pipes with a geotextile filter are used.

Suitable for the site simple pipes without a filter, but it is recommended to sprinkle them with crushed stone, wrap them in geotextiles.

Fender, ring drainage, drainage around the house

Drainage systems for the site differ in individual types, but for home gardens, two such systems are often used, such as a fender or a ring. The scheme of such drainage is closed, it differs in its appearance resembling the branches of a tree. Combined systems can also be used, but they all differ in that they have a closed loop. The dewatering of the site is carried out using general drainage.

The drain can be very different, sometimes such a type of system as reservoir is used. This method is used when the speed of water entering the site is negligible. This is the simplest option, in which the pipes are not laid in a trench, but on top of a simple layer of sand and gravel. Such a layer of soil is perfectly permeable to water; when laying such a shallow trench with their own hands, they make a slope of 3 cm for each m of the system.

Reservoir drainage is the simplest, it does not require much effort or expense to lay it, usually this is the most used method for small summer cottages.

Features of work performance

The main mechanical steps in the assembly of the site drainage

Today, the device of the drainage system must meet all the requirements:

Before work, it is necessary to draw up a project for laying drainage. This means that a vertical layout of the site is necessary, as well as determining the level of groundwater, the type of soil itself on the territory. You can’t do it yourself, you need the help of specialists.
Based on the data obtained, it is determined what should be the depth of the trench, the diameter and type of pipe. Such calculations are also recommended to be entrusted to specialists.
After doing design work you can start digging a trench, which is quite possible to do with your own hands. After laying to the required depth, the bottom is covered with a layer of cleaned sand, on which fine gravel is poured.
When digging a trench, it must be taken into account that its width should be approximately 40 cm larger than the diameter of the selected pipe. This will allow you to make the right sprinkling in the proper amount.
Now, using only their hands, the pipe is laid on a sand and gravel cushion, after which sand and gravel are sprinkled. For some types of soil and pipes, it is necessary to additionally use a special fabric.
The slope when laying drainage with your own hands should be from 3 °, manholes for maintenance are required. The distance between such wells should be up to 50 m, the presence of such elements is mandatory at the bends of the system, when the angle of inclination changes.
To avoid blockages, it is recommended to install corrugated pipes that have the ability to self-clean (where possible).
To properly lay the drainage, it is necessary to install a check valve or a special collection well, from where water will be pumped out periodically.

Mistakes in self-laying drainage

Drainage ceramic pipes: a - round, b - with a longitudinal support plane, c - with slotted holes for water intake, d - faceted, e - with sockets, e - with protruding ribs.

The laying of the drainage system must be carried out in full compliance with all requirements. This also applies to the choice of pipes for drainage, which should be suitable for the type of soil. For example, if you have loamy soil in your area, then pipes that do not have a filter cannot be used. So, among the most common mistakes that are made when laying drainage with your own hands, there are:

incorrectly selected type of pipeline;
during installation, the angle of inclination adopted for laying the drainage system is not observed;
water is not drained from the collection well;
do-it-yourself laying technology is violated, that is, the filtering coating, consisting of sand and gravel, has not been completed.

Therefore, if you plan an independent drainage system, you should make sure that the materials are chosen correctly, the technology is strictly observed.

Maintenance of the drainage system

It is not enough to properly lay the drainage channel with your own hands, it is also necessary to ensure its maintenance. Approximately four times a year, it is recommended to carry out preventive inspections of the condition of wells and pipes, to measure water, which can immediately indicate a decrease in throughput (if the level drops below the required one). The reasons for this decline are as follows:

pipe damage;
the occurrence of blockages;
blockages and silting of pipes for drainage;
the occurrence of sedimentation of the pipeline.

To prevent this from happening, you need to properly care for the system. This is not only cleaning pipelines, but also regular inspections. The efficiency of drainage is also affected by the correct installation, which can increase or reduce the service life.

You can lay a drainage system on your own personal plot with your own hands, but for this you must follow all the rules for installation. This applies to the choice of the type of the system itself, the location of the pipes on the site, the choice of the drainage pipes themselves. Only in this case, do-it-yourself installation will be of high quality and reliable. It is also important to maintain drainage, regular preventive inspections and pipe cleaning, which allows you to increase the service life several times.

High level groundwater can bring a lot of trouble not only to garden plantations, but, first of all, to the foundations of buildings. As a result, the house can give uneven shrinkage and, as a result, a violation of the geometry of walls, roofs, windows and doors. In addition, the constant moisture of the walls causes the formation of fungus, which can lead to a deterioration in the health of those living in the house.

If you know that on your site groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, then you should take care of a drainage system that will drain excess water outside the site, keeping the foundation of the house intact, your health and the health of your loved ones, as well as plants in garden.

Making a drainage system on your own is not very difficult, you just need to know the technology for the production of work.

What is drainage?

The very concept of "drainage" means the removal of excess water in a natural or artificial way from the soil surface or from the ground. Drainage is used both in construction and in agricultural technology to drain storm or groundwater using a system of channels, drainage wells, wells, laid pipes and other devices.

Drainage must be done if:

the groundwater level has been raised on the site,

In the old days, when plastic materials were not produced, asbestos-cement, ceramic or steel pipes were used for the drainage system. To get a complete drainage system, it was necessary to manually drill holes in such pipes. Not only was such work not easy, the holes eventually became clogged with soil, which negated all the efforts spent on arranging the drainage system. Currently on sale there is a large selection of different pipes for drainage.

For the installation of a drainage pipe, it is better to purchase a corrugated plastic pipe, in which there are ready-made holes. So that the holes in the pipes are not clogged with soil or silted up, they can be wrapped with low-density geotextiles, which cost mere pennies.

Corrugated Drain Pipe

What are the advantages of plastic pipes:

First of all, plastic differs from all other materials in durability. The service life of such materials is estimated at 50 years or more.
Plastic pipes, regardless of the material (polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene, and others), can be easily processed with improvised tools that are in every home.
When installing a drainage system, plastic pipes can be laid to any depth.
Pipe assembly is easy, thanks to their design features and the availability of a variety of connecting elements for sale.
And finally - plastic pipes are several times cheaper than metal or ceramic ones.

Drainage system device

The laying of drainage pipes begins with the preparation of a site plan and a project, which should indicate:

pipe locations,
length and depth of trenches,
installation of drainage or manholes,
a method of draining water into a storm sewer or other container for collecting water.

The project should indicate the level of groundwater occurrence, the level of soil freezing, the type of soil on the site. It is unlikely that anyone is able to do such a project on their own, therefore, in order for the drainage system to work flawlessly, you need to turn to specialists who will competently make all the calculations. And the technical work itself is quite within the power of the owner of the house.

Before laying plastic drainage pipes, a trench should be prepared according to the design dimensions. The trench is dug wider than the diameter of the pipe by 40-50 cm, if the depth of freezing of the soil is small and the worker can fit in such a trench.

With a large depth of soil freezing, it is more convenient to dig when the width of the trench allows you to turn around with a shovel. There are no exact instructions here, everyone digs a trench in the way that is more convenient for him. The main thing is that the slope from the house to the drainage wells or other place of water collection is observed.

The technology of laying drainage pipes involves laying several drainage layers of sand and gravel at the bottom of the trench. But first, geotextiles are lined on the bottom and walls of the trench, only after that is sand is added, then crushed stone. And already a perforated plastic pipe is laid on the crushed stone layer, which is poured in the reverse order - crushed stone, sand, geotextiles and previously selected soil. The use of geotextiles protects pipe openings from silting.

The slope when laying drainage pipes must be maintained within 3 degrees throughout the entire length of one branch of the drainage system.

In some cases, the drainage system is arranged according to the “herringbone” system - this is when more perforated pipes are connected to the main drainage pipe, like branches extending from the tree trunk.

Laying drainage pipes according to the herringbone principle

In addition to laying drainage pipes, it is necessary to arrange manholes that allow, if necessary, to clear blockages and monitor the water level in the drainage system.

Inspection wells should be located no further than 50 meters, and on the bends of the drainage system or a sharp change in the slope of the pipes, they must be arranged without fail.

All collected water - from the ground or rainwater, must be discharged either into a storm sewer or into a special reservoir, from where it can be used for irrigation or other technical needs on the farm.

If water is to be drained during the installation of drainage pipes into an open body of water (river, lake, pond) or into a storm drain, then at the ends of the drainage pipes, check valves.

Causes of malfunctioning drainage system

During the installation of the drainage system, the technology or sequence of work could be violated. For example, at first crushed stone was poured, and then sand was poured to the bottom of the trench, and as a result, the holes in the pipe could clog.

Or maybe the drainage filling was not done at all. Or the slope was broken when laying pipes, as a result of which water cannot drain by gravity into a drainage well or into a storm sewer.

When draining water into an open reservoir, check valves were not installed or for some other reason.

Even if you did everything right, and your drainage system works flawlessly, you need to remember that any device needs periodic inspection and maintenance, which consists in measuring the water level in manholes, cleaning the drainage system from accumulated debris and dirt. Inspections are recommended to be carried out 4 times a year, i.е. every season.

Laying a drainage pipe - how to do it yourself?
The drainage pipe acts as a drainage system and protects the foundation of the building from destruction. We will understand the device of this design, how to properly install

Drainage sewerage is a system of perforated pipes, called drains, functioning as one unit with the sewer system of the house and the septic tank.

At the same time, very often drainage sewers are made to drain effluent from the bath, because there are no large fractions here and such water, which has passed through a layer of rubble and sand, can be passed into the ground without worrying about the state of the environment.

Storm drainage can also be provided. It is necessary to divert rainwater from the soil surface. In this case, trenches will be laid around the house, equipped with water receivers coming from the drain.

How does a do-it-yourself drainage system work

Having understood what a sewage drainage system is, you should consider the features of its design.

There is nothing complicated here.

It is a perforated pipe laid in a trench on a drainage layer.

The role of the latter can be different materials- depending on the characteristics of the soil, the level of groundwater, as well as the degree of pollution of wastewater.

Gravel, sand and geotextiles are commonly used for drainage.

Together, they provide additional cleaning. Wastewater, prevent clogging of sewer pipes with silt.

Gravel, sand and geotextile

According to a similar principle, the drainage system of the site is equipped with one's own hands in cases where it is necessary to provide protection from an excessive rise in the level of groundwater and flooding of the site.

Also, such a system will good method organizations storm sewer, diverting water from downpipes, preventing flooding of the foundation of the building. The only difference here is the lack of drains.

Drainage system of the site without drains

In all these cases, you should carefully consider the last moment - where the water will flow from the drainage pipes or trenches.

If the runoff from the house must be discharged exclusively into a septic tank or a filtration well, then groundwater and rainwater can flow not only into a special collector, but also, for example, into a pond, any other body of water.

It can be used to equip a birdbath.

Schemes of the drainage system of the site

How to make a drainage pipe from a sewer pipe

The drainage pipe for sewerage is a conventional perforated pipe.

You can buy it in any store.

But, if you have a PVC sewer pipe for arranging outdoor sewerage, then you can make a drainage out of it, moreover, with your own hands, because sewer and drainage pipes differ only in the presence of holes in their surface.

Drainage pipes for the site

There are two ways to implement this idea. The first is with a circular saw.

You will need to do the following in this case:

take DISC SAW. The disc must be equipped with carbide tips,
using this tool, make many cuts in the pipe, distributing them evenly over the entire surface of the product. Their length should be 10-20 cm. It is necessary to ensure that there are not too many cuts, because then the pipe will lose its strength,

Circular saw for cuts in plastic

The work will look like this:

Holes in the drain pipe with a drill

take a drill and make a large number of holes in the pipe,
it must be taken into account that the diameter of the hole must be less than the size of the crushed stone fractions used for arranging drainage. This will prevent clogging of the drain pipe. The optimal hole diameter is 5 mm. The distance between them should be a maximum of 10 cm.

Drainage pipe with holes

We looked at how to make a drainage pipe from a sewer. Which method to choose, you can decide based on the tool available.

How is sewage drainage done?

Thinking about how to properly make drainage for sewers, you should consider a step-by-step instruction that can clarify the situation and give an idea of the sequence and features of the work being done.

The drainage will be equipped as follows:

Drainage Installation Instructions

dig a trench desired length and depth. It is recommended to observe its optimal depth of 1.2 meters. If the groundwater level in the area is not high, you can make a trench 1.5 meters deep. Be sure to take into account the slope - 1-2 cm per meter of pipe,
we fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand, carefully tamp it down, observing the slope. For such work, you need to choose sand with a grain size of 1.5-1 mm,
instead of sand, you can fill up a layer of gravel. The size of the fractions should be 20-40 mm,
we cover the trench with geotextiles necessary to prevent silting of the pipe. Its edges should go outside the trench,

Drainage installation and pipe laying

Backfilling with crushed stone and wrapping with geotextiles

This is a fairly common drainage system.

A trench of the required width is dug here, its depth will be 1-1.5 meters.

In the same way, the bottom is equipped with a sand cushion, only several drainage pipes are laid on it parallel to each other with a distance of 0.7-1 meters.

This is what the drainage filtration field looks like

Of course, you can do without geotextiles, but it is still recommended to use this material. It prevents silting of the drainage pipe, extends its service life by an average of 4-5 years.

Types of slope of the drainage system

It is also important to know that the slope sewer pipe will depend entirely on its diameter.

The standard diameter indicators are 110 mm, and the slope is 1-2 cm per meter of the product.

If the diameter of the drainage pipe for the sewer decreases, then the slope should increase.

There is a regularity here: the larger the diameter of the perforated pipe, the greater its throughput.

Drainage system and how to make a drainage pipe from a sewer
Drainage sewerage is a system of perforated pipes, called drains, functioning as one unit with the sewer system of the house and the septic tank. At the same time, very often drainage sewers are made to drain effluent from the bath, because there are no large fractions here and such water, which has passed through a layer of rubble and sand, can be passed into the ground without worrying about the state of the environment.

The drainage pipe is the main component of the drainage system, which in turn is a structure designed to collect and drain filtered rain, melt and groundwater. Rain and melt waters cause unwanted rise in groundwater, increasing destructive impact on the foundations of buildings and elements of landscape design.

The use of drainage pipes effectively protects the house from damage associated

with high humidity, mold and frost formation, prevents flooding

cellars, the formation of puddles and spring ice on footpaths, prevents decay garden plants due to excess moisture in summer cottages and garden plots.

Drainage pipes are corrugated perforated pipes with stiffeners and big amount rational small holes located in the cavity of the wave (corrugations). The stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute the soil pressure along the entire length of the pipe and perceive additional loads that arise. These pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 0.7 to 6 meters. The stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute pressure throughout the pipe and absorb additional loads that arise. Drainage pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 6 meters. The presence of a large number of small holes of a special profile for one running meter The product contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the drained area.

The presence of a large number of optimally located small holes of a special profile along the entire length of the pipe contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the site. Due to the low weight - (a coil 50 meters long and an optimal diameter of 110 mm weighs only 25 kg.) - installation and transportation are carried out without special

Also, one of the advantages of these pipes is their high corrosion resistance in aggressive groundwater. The service life of a drainage system made of polymers, with proper operation, is 50 years or more.

Efficient drainage prevents groundwater from rising too high at the base of the house, protecting the building from damage caused by moisture, mold and frost. If it is required that the drainage work in the cold season, it should be laid at a depth exceeding the freezing depth of the soil. Specialists

think that for middle lane Russia almost always needs drainage.

Drainage flexible corrugated pipes made of polyethylene with a filter are used for

the creation of melioration systems (drainage), to protect buildings or sites from excessive

moisture, seasonal groundwater rise. Drainage is an extensive system

of interconnected pipes located around or into the system, water flowing down the ground enters.

Each pipe (specialists call it a drain) has a network of holes (perforation) on its walls. They are at the same distance from each other. Drainage can be laid both before and after waterproofing the foundation and basement, but strictly before the general backfilling of the outer side

foundation. The water collected through pipes enters the collector (transport network), and then into the water intake well or into the water intake (river, stream, ravine). Sometimes water from a water intake well is pumped out by a pump into the nearest ditch, ditch or sewer well. As a result of well-executed drainage, the groundwater level decreases, fertility improves, drained soil is easier to prepare for sowing, and such land also accepts fertilizers better.

DRAINAGE- this is a system of underground channels, called drains, through which groundwater is removed from building structures and its level is lowered, as well as land is drained for the cultivation of agricultural products. Water from the drainage network is discharged outside the drained area into the water intake. Thus, a drain is an artificial watercourse in the soil for collecting and draining groundwater (usually underground). Drainage systems are used in agriculture, forestry, landscaping and construction projects.

Where are RUVINIL drainage systems used? ?

Construction

The foundation of any building structures, even at a shallow depth of 1.5–2 m, is exposed to groundwater. The composition of groundwater includes components that have destructive properties. Even waterproofing does not protect in this situation. A high level of groundwater leads to the destruction of building foundations, flooding of basements, the appearance of fungal formations, etc. When constructing roads, sidewalks and open flat areas, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics and degree of soil moisture.

Land reclamation and agriculture

High groundwater levels lead to rotting and freezing fruit trees, the occurrence of fungal diseases of plants and waterlogging of the area. If it is necessary to drain swamps and waterlogged areas, it is effective to use polyethylene corrugated pipes, which provide a quick and cheap laying of the drainage system. The drainage system, mounted even on flat areas with the help of a drainage pipe, removes the backwater of groundwater and significantly reduces their level.

How to lay drainage pipes?
How to lay drainage pipes? – informational article

Modern drainage pipes are light in weight, affordable and easy to install, for their laying there is no need to use heavy equipment, and also to hire over qualified specialists, it is enough to follow the phased work and our recommendations, and the installation of drainage pipes is carried out in the following sequence:

trench preparation

A drainage (filtering) layer of fine crushed stone of a fraction (grain size) of 10-20 mm with a height of at least 15 cm is poured into an open trench.
The drainage layer is planned with a constant slope, at least 10-15 mm per 2 m of length. For control, you can use a water level and a cord or level fixed on a two-meter rail, at one end of which a boss is fixed that fixes the size of the slope. In this case, the design slope will be reached when the bubble is in the center of the level.

Pipe laying

Laying installation of drainage pipes starts from the upper mark to the downstream well (reservoir).

The pipeline is assembled from separate drains (perforated pipes) and fittings (adapters, bends, tees, plugs) and is laid on a planned drainage layer.

In the case of using ceramic and concrete pipes, the gaps in their joints (5-15 mm) should be used as water inlets, protecting them from flooding with turf laid down with grass, moss or other fibrous materials.

The connection of asbestos-cement pipes should be carried out on couplings with sealing rings.

The finished pipeline is sprinkled with a drainage (filtering) layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 10-20 mm, at least 20 cm high above the top of the pipe, without breaking the connections and without changing the created slope.

On top of the drainage layer, you can lay a layer of harvested turf with grass down. The trench is backfilled with permeable soil such as sand. to the surface of the earth, and a fertile layer of earth is laid on top.

Installation of drainage pipes:

drainage (filter layer) from crushed stone of fraction 10 - 20 mm, 20 mm thick,
drainage pipe,
permeable soil (sand) - 90 - 100 mm,
fertile layer of earth (sod) - 10 - 15 cm.

The introduction of new drainage products on the market, such as corrugated perforated polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes with filters for various types soils, greatly simplified the work. Such pipes with stiffeners make it easy to install drainage pipes, they evenly distribute loads throughout the pipe, which makes their service life almost unlimited.

PVC drainage pipes are laid to a depth not exceeding the freezing level, in accordance with the depth of the existing foundation, installation of drainage pipes performed in the above sequence. Filters are used to protect the drainage system from silting. A pipe with a geotextile filter is designed for sandy and sandy loamy soils. A pipe with a coconut fiber filter is laid in peat bogs, clays and loams.

In addition to these materials, freshly cut brushwood without leaves and bunches of fascines connected from it, poles 6-10 cm thick, flaky (flat) stones, cobblestones, and bricks can be used as drainage.

Drainage along the fence can be arranged in separate sections. A ditch 2.5-3 m long, 0.5 m wide is dug to a depth of 1-1.5 m and gradually filled with household, poorly disposed waste (broken glass, cans, construction debris, stones, etc.). After layer-by-layer compaction, the ditch filled to the lower level of the fertile layer is filled up. Then they dig another ditch into the joint. And so, over the course of a number of years, a drainage system is created.

How to install drainage pipes: step by step instructions
In order to properly install drainage pipes, it is necessary to correctly follow certain instructions and sequences. This material describes how to install drainage pipes yourself.

The most commonly used engineering installation for drainage is a drainage system. Installation of the drainage system can be done by hand. Drainage systems, properly installed on the site, do an excellent job of lowering the level of groundwater. It is possible to install drainage systems from materials that are always at hand in the garden plot, and from materials specially purchased for this.

Scheme of the drainage system: 1 - collecting drains; 2 - main drain; 3 - inspection wells with sedimentation tanks; 4 - drainage well.

Proper installation of drainage systems

Installation has a number of features. First of all, it must be carried out before planting and building, as a large amount of land must be removed. Before work, a calculation is required. It is necessary to observe a slope towards the spillway from 0.2 to 1 cm, the pipes are wrapped in geotextiles, the trenches are sprinkled with gravel.

The device of the drainage system can be done independently. For this, simple tools and materials are used, namely:

shovel;
rail for checking the level of pipe installation;
knife for cutting pipes;
garden wheelbarrow;
drains - plastic pipes with holes;
tamper;
rotary wells;
corners for pipes;
crushed stone;
geotextile.

The system consists of main and additional drainage trenches, a ditch or a well. The main trenches are oriented towards the watershed, and additional trenches are laid to them in a herringbone pattern, i.e. the main trenches end in a drainage ditch or wells, and they must be located taking into account the future garden and house, leaving room for them.

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Economical options for a drainage system from improvised means

To decide how to arrange a drainage system on your site, you need to clearly understand all the stages of work.
Drain designs: I - drainage track; II - drainage with a wooden tray; III - drainage with a tray of large stones; IV - drainage with a tray of wooden planks; V - fascine drainage (bunch of shrubs); VI - fascine drainage; VII - tray made of perforated asbestos-cement pipe; VIII - tray-ceramic pipe;
1 - sand; 2 - small gravel (small pebbles); 3 - large crushed stone with a fraction of more than 50 mm; 4 - turf; 5 - reinforced concrete slabs; 6 - antiseptic, perforated boards; 7 - large stones, wattle fence; 8 - fascina; 9 - "goats" from bars; 10 - asbestos-cement pipe; 11 - ceramic pipe; A, h - variable depth and base of the drain.

On preparatory stage you need to do the following:
dig a trench 50 cm wide around the perimeter of the house at a distance of about 2-5 m from the foundation to a depth corresponding to the level of the foundation sole;

determine the lowest and highest points of the site;

calculate the slope of the drainage system, which should be about 2-3%, i.e. 2-3 cm per 1 m of drainage gutter;

determine the location: this may be a nearby body of water or, if there is none, a general drainage system.

Organization of the relief of the territory: A - a collection of storm water from the utility yard;
B - storm drains; 1 - zone of a residential building; 2 - zone of the household yard; 3 - garden 4.5 - fruit and ornamental gardens.

At the next stage, it involves the choice of a trench design suitable for your site, designed to drain water (drains). Drains of all types have a similar design. The main materials for the device of any drainage are sand, crushed stone of large and small fractions, turf.

There are several types of drainage that you can do yourself:

The simplest option that does not require the use of additional materials. In this case, the water will drain by gravity into the receiver.

Reinforced concrete slabs are laid in a triangle. Through the formed channel, water flows to the collection point.

Drainage in the form of the letter "P". It is arranged from perforated and antiseptic-treated boards or small stones.

Fascina - a bundle of branches. For such a system, birch, alder, oak branches, or coniferous branches can be used. To make a fascine, thicker branches need to be wrapped around with thin branches and wrapped with wire. The branches should be laid with thin ends in the direction of the water drain. This structure must be built on the ground next to the trench. Width finished and unified, i.e. not in separate bundles, fascines should be at least 25 cm.

Drainage in the form of a wooden canal lined with large rubble on all sides.

A perforated asbestos-cement pipe is used as a water pipe.

Perforated ceramic pipe - also very good decision for drain.

All these designs will ensure the effective removal of groundwater from the house.

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Drainage device using special materials

The construction of the drainage system: a - grooves in the direction of the slope with sloping walls; b - pipes laid end-to-end. c - side pipes are connected to the main one at an angle of 60 °. g - a pit for a drainage well.

The most reliable way to organize an open drainage system on the site is to use special pipes. Installing such a system on the site involves performing several standard simple operations.

You need to start by preparing a trench for pipes. Most best option- Christmas tree-shaped trenches dug throughout the site. The width of the trench is about 20 cm, the depth is clay soil- 60 cm, in sandy soils - up to 110 cm.

To collect water at a distance of 2 m from the blind area, you need to arrange a trench with special gratings around the perimeter of the house. The slope of the entire drainage system is calculated towards the lowest part of the site.

Determine the location of the wastewater outlet. It can be a ditch, a well, an artificial or natural reservoir. At the bottom of the trench, it is necessary to pour and compact crushed stone with a layer of up to 25 cm. Special perforated pipes must be wrapped with geotextile - a material that can filter water well, and laid on a cushion of gravel. Pipe diameter for - 63 m, for drainage - 110 mm.

Pipes pre-wrapped with geotextiles must be laid on crushed stone and covered with it from above. The joints of the pipes of the system are also recommended to be well wrapped with geotextiles. Such a system will serve effectively and efficiently for many years.

The arrangement of drainage solves several problems at once. The main ones are the drainage of high groundwater and perched water from the deep foundation of the house, reducing the load on the waterproofing of basement walls and underground technical floors, and draining the site on wet soils. The standard scheme of the drainage system consists of water receivers and pipes laid in the ground. After reading the article, you will learn how the drainage pipe works and how the device of the drainage pipe allows you to simultaneously collect water and divert it into special wells or outside the site.

Drainage pipes are easily recognizable by their corrugated surface and applied perforations.

Types of drainage pipes

Drainage pipes differ in materials, device and even shape.

By type of material, there is the following classification:

ceramic;
asbestos-cement;
polymeric.

All of these materials have good frost resistance, high resistance to moisture and are not subject to decay. But they differ from each other in other respects.

Ceramic

As for external sewage, this is a traditional material that was ubiquitous before the “polymer era”. There is even a Soviet GOST, which regulates the shape of ceramic drainage pipes. Inside, they have the shape of a hollow cylinder, and outside they are not only cylindrical, but also in the form of a six- and octahedron.

For reference! Unlike sewers, drainage pipes are made without sockets - they are connected using couplings that do not create conditions for the accumulation of silt at the joints. The same connection technology was “borrowed” later by products from other materials.

Another difference from ceramic sewer pipes is the absence of a glazed layer on the outer surface.

Ceramic drainage pipes - without perforation, glazed layer and sockets Source o-trubah.com

Usually the walls of the drainage pipe have holes in the form of grooves or slots, but sometimes they are absent. Non-perforated pipes are not used to collect water, but only to drain it from the site.

Advantages: absolute environmental friendliness and rather high service life (up to 30 years).

Flaws: high cost, fragility, difficulty in transportation, it is difficult to fit the size and lay the drainage pipe during the installation of the system.

Asbestos-cement

For drainage, ordinary asbestos-cement non-pressure pipes and couplings marked BNT and BNM are used. Unlike ceramic ones, they have a universal specialization - the organization of external sewerage and drainage pipelines, the protection of underground telephone cables.

In order to use them not only for drainage, but also for collecting groundwater, they need to be improved - cutting through slots or drilling holes.

Advantages: versatility, low cost, ease of fitting to size.

Disadvantages: the need for refinement, fragility, difficulty in laying drainage and poor environmental properties.

Drainage asbestos-cement pipe with perforation Source vse-o-kanalizacii.ru

For reference! The last quality needs some explanation. Since January 1, 2005, the European Union has banned the use of asbestos and products from it - there are sad statistics from the Ministry of Health about the carcinogenic effect of asbestos dust on the body. While it is believed that the cement binds the asbestos microfibers, fitting and punching holes is bound to produce this dust. Therefore, all work with this material is prescribed to be carried out exclusively when using respiratory protection and mucous membranes.

Polymer

They are:

rigid and flexible;
smooth and corrugated;
single-layer and double-layer;
with a protective winding made of geotextile and with an additional filter layer.

According to the degree of "ring" rigidity, several classes are distinguished, which are indicated by the marking SN2-SN24, and the larger the digital index, the more the pipe is able to withstand the pressure of bulk gravel, sand and soil.

Almost the entire range of this category has perforations with different patterns on the surface. There are also those that have one row of holes, which, when laid, are placed on top to collect sedimentary water. But more often, the holes “encircle” the entire surface so that the installation of the drainage pipe is not difficult and allows water to seep in from all sides.

Polymer perforated drainage pipe Source otdelkagres.ru

In addition to the "standard" cylindrical shape, there are flat corrugated drainage pipes. They do not have such a high throughput, but, thanks to an additional stiffener, they are more compressive strength in a horizontal position. And in vertical position- take up less space and do not require large-scale earthworks.

In addition to perforated pipes, there are products made of porous polymer. Open communicating cells and wall porosity (at the level of 80-90% of the volume) replace the perforation and serve as an excellent filter against the penetration of silt inside. But even in this case, they resort to additional protection in the form of a geotextile winding, which either wraps the pipe at the production stage or wraps it during the arrangement of the drainage system.

The novelties include drainage pipes, which have an additional filter layer made of granulated polystyrene foam. It is located between the wall and the geotextile winding. And when laying in a trench, they do not require backfilling of a layer of crushed stone.

All these subtleties of the device of the drainage pipe determine the methods of its laying.

Varieties of drainage pipes depending on the material and type of soil in which they will be laid Source papamaster.su

There are no general disadvantages of polymer pipes. A wide price range and a large assortment of materials, sizes and devices allow you to choose the best option for each case.

General advantages: long service life, high resistance to mechanical stress and damage, ease of fitting and installation.

Laying technology

In order for the system to work clearly, you need to know how to properly lay the drainage pipe, depending on the type. For each drainage pipe, the laying technology will vary slightly depending on the design. But First stage everyone has the same:

They develop a drainage scheme: the location of pipes, places for wells and revisions.
Depending on the type of soil, the geological characteristics of the site, the location of groundwater and the required throughput, the size and type of the drainage pipe are selected.
On the basis of the planned route for laying drainage pipes on the site, the site is planned and marked for earthworks.

The ideal option is when the drainage scheme is developed in conjunction with the project of the house. Source mainstro.ru

They dig trenches. On dense soils with straight walls, on loose soils - with sloped walls or strengthen them for the duration of work. The bottom is made 30 cm wider on both sides of the pipe.
The bottom surface is leveled, the soil is compacted, a slope towards the drainage well is formed within 0.5-3.0% (minimum 0.5 cm and maximum 3 cm per meter of length).
A layer of coarse-grained sand about 15 cm thick is poured and rammed, observing the slope laid down during the formation of the bottom of the ditch.

Further technology for laying a drainage pipe depends on its design.

Laying a drainage pipe with geotextile, if it does not have a factory winding:

Geotextiles are laid on top of the sand. The width of the canvas should be sufficient so that the edges can then be brought together.
Pour a layer of crushed stone (15 cm).
A perforated pipe is laid and covered with a layer of rubble on top.
The edges of the geotextile web are wrapped and fastened together. As a result, the pipe should have a uniform backfill of about 15 cm with crushed stone on all sides, textiles should pass along the “sand-crushed stone” border, and free space should remain before the walls of the trench.

The principle of operation of drainage - water seeps through geotextiles, crushed stone and perforation, then flows by gravity through a pipe to a well Source pogreb-podval.ru

Pour a layer of sand on the sides and top (about 15 cm).
The excavated or imported fertile soil is laid back.

If the pipe has a factory-made geotextile winding, then the drainage installation procedure is reduced by two “steps”.

Note! You can buy geotextiles separately, choose perforated pipes without winding and wrap them before work.

Video description

In the video below, see how the installation process of the drainage system takes place:

For deep drainage, two-layer corrugated pipes made of polymeric materials with an additional filter shell are most in demand in civil engineering. And the same profile, but without a geotextile winding, is used to equip closed-type storm sewers.

The inner walls have a smooth surface, which ensures high self-cleaning and does not create prerequisites for siltation of the horizontal part of the drainage system.

The outer walls are in the form of corrugations with an annular profile, which provides the required rigidity. The corrugated surface also allows the use of O-rings when connecting pipes with couplings and tees.

For laying in areas with normal operation (blind area, lawns, footpaths), ring stiffness class SN4, SN8 is sufficient.

For drainage under driveways or parking areas, pipes with ring stiffness class SN16-SN24 are selected.

Video description

Visually about the choice of drainage pipes, see the following video:

Conclusion

The durability and strength of the foundation, the absence of water in the basement during the rainy season and snowmelt, the normal moisture content of the site and the “health” of green spaces depend on a properly designed and installed system of deep drainage and storm sewerage. Therefore, water disposal and drainage should be handled by specialists.