Instructions for installing interior doors - do the installation yourself! Do-it-yourself installation of an interior door with your own hands: step-by-step instructions (video) Adjusting the door up

In this video, you will learn how to properly install interior doors from step-by-step instructions with your own hands.

  • Installation work interior doors quite complex and requires accurate measurements, compliance with certain technologies and good experience in this area. Therefore, the question of how much it costs to install interior doors has a definite answer - not cheap.
  • Therefore, the alternative is to install the door yourself, but only after a detailed study of the basic installation technique. The first thing to prepare is materials and tools. This is a door with a frame and hinges, dowels and screws, anchors and wooden wedges, mounting foam; drill, level, tape measure, hacksaw, goniometer.
  • After dismantling old door and taking measurements, you select new door. You cut the hinges (two or three pieces usually), paying attention to the location of the handle and the side of the door opening. For marking you will need a goniometer. Next, proceed to planting the door frame. The box must be aligned horizontally and vertically and fixed in the opening. The door leaf is tried on to the box several times.
  • If necessary, the box "sits down" on the foam. All visible cracks are filled with foam. The last step is platbanding. During door installation important point are the gaps, which have standard values. Upper and lateral - at least 2 mm, lower - 6-12 mm.
  • According to their type of movement, doors are divided into sliding, hinged and folding. Swing doors are the easiest to install. Sliding and folding doors have various modifications and design features, so if you are not experienced enough, it is better to entrust the installation of this type to professionals.
  • The installation of interior doors usually requires the participation of two people, and the whole procedure from preparing the doorway to installing fittings does not tolerate haste, neglecting fittings and additional measurements. Only in this case, the door will be installed with high quality and serve for a long time.

The door block is not a load-bearing building element, therefore, loads from building structures should not be transferred to it. Leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the box and the building structure.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

  1. Unpack door frame.
  2. On a flat surface that excludes damage to the product, assemble the elements of the box by selecting the desired side of the canvas opening. Check that the edges of the crossbar and the buttocks are in the same plane, and in the place where they fit, the gap does not exceed 1 mm. On the back of the crossbar, drill four through holes, then connect the elements of the box to the screws. For a self-tapping screw 4.2 x 70 we recommend a drill with a diameter of 3.5 mm.
  3. Insert the frame into the doorway and secure with wedges (at least three points on each side).
  4. Using a strictly vertical level, fix the hinged rack with a perforator and fixing screws, using spacers between the opening and the box at the attachment points.
  5. Loosen the hinge screw and hang the door leaf.
  6. Close the door leaf, and set the post on the lock side so that the door leaf fits around the perimeter, ensuring an even gap, and fix the post in this position.
  7. Open and close the canvas several times, making sure that it is installed correctly and nothing interferes with closing. Right installed door(when it is opened at 45°) must not open or close spontaneously.
  8. Finally fix the hinges on the self-tapping screws and install the fittings.
  9. Fill the mounting gap between the box and the wall with low expansion foam (follow the manufacturer's instructions when using foam).
  10. The platband is recommended to be installed only after the complete drying of the mounting foam. During the drying period of the foam (about 12 hours), the door should be kept closed at all times.

CHANGING THE SIDE OF THE LEAF

A blind canvas of a standard size in height is both right and left. This is achieved due to the vertical symmetry of the canvas.

To change the door opening direction:

  • unscrew the fixing screws and pull the lock body out of the door, turn it by 180° (so that the lock tongue is on top, above the bolt), install the lock in this position back;
  • pull the bolt out of the lock body with pliers by 3 mm and turn it 180°.

Necessary tools for installation: screwdriver with a set of bits, rotary hammer or hammer drill, level, hacksaw, measuring tape.

The installation instructions for interior doors allow you to install such structures on your own without much difficulty. You just need to strictly follow its points.

Thank you for your help in creating the article of our partners: Porta prima interior doors factory - www.portaprima.ru

Door structures between rooms in an apartment or a private house cannot be called very complex technical systems. However, their assembly and installation require knowledge of a number of nuances. Firstly, a self-installed door should not spontaneously open. Secondly, it must close without excessive effort. Thirdly, door structures must have a certain strength and not fall apart in cases where they are mounted in the dwellings of "lovers" to slam the doors.

Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in several stages:

  1. Assembly of the supporting structural element - the box.
  2. Installation of the canvas, and then the box beam (a handle, hinges and other fittings are attached to it).
  3. Aligning the box in the door and fixing it securely.
  4. Canvas hanging.
  5. Finishing of doors with platbands.

Types of interior doors

A conventional door block consists of two elements - a leaf and a box. The latter is made of hinged and feigned timber, as well as lintels. If you will be installing doors with a threshold, the box is complemented by a special bottom bar. The door leaf in most cases is hung on two hinges. There are systems with three loops, but they are used extremely rarely. The set of door blocks, as a rule, includes platbands. If the manufacturer does not provide any, you will need to purchase them separately.

In situations where the door frame is smaller in width than the door opening, you need to purchase extensions or trim the walls with flashings or slopes that are more elegant in terms of design. Here you need to know that professionals do not advise plastering slopes if you do the installation of structures made of wood materials (for example, MDF) with your own hands. Such doors are simply deformed after applying a plaster composition to them.

An excessively wide opening is often reduced with the help of wooden beam. Its dimensions should correspond to the "extra" width. Such a beam is installed from the side of the door pillar, where its hinges are located. The beam is attached to the rack with small cross-section universal self-tapping screws, and it is connected to the wall with anchors. Installation interior structures it is recommended to do it with your own hands after pre-finishing the premises (it is understood that you have leveled the walls, carefully and accurately puttyed them, and then plastered them).

Reducing the doorway with a wooden beam

In other words, the assembly and installation of doors is carried out after the completion of all, without exception, "wet" finishing work.

Otherwise, there is a high probability that the system may “float” from high humidity. Be sure to arrange a draft flooring, as well as decide on the thickness and type of finish floor that you will do. Without this, you will not be able to accurately mount the door frame to the height of the threshold. If you just decide to change the interior doors in a room where there are no repair work is not implemented, the latest recommendations are irrelevant.

It is very important to install the racks correctly. A door frame is attached to them. If you install it on crooked racks, the operational functionality of such a door will be minimal. Rack preparation is carried out as follows:

  1. The upper parts of the racks must be cut with a hacksaw (it is better to take a saw with small teeth) and a miter box. This operation is easier to do if you have a miter saw.
  2. By inside racks measure the required length (it consists of the lower gap, the height of the door leaf and the upper gap). The lower gap is usually taken to be about 1 cm, the upper one - no more than 0.4 cm. Prepare the second rack in the same way.
  3. Now you start processing the lintel. measure desired length along the inside. The required length will include the width of the leaf, a small (about 0.4 cm) gap on the side where you will put the lock on the door, and another gap on the side of the hinges. Get the length (internal) of the lintel. Note - absolutely accurate.

Installation of interior door racks

Now you can saw off the ends of the lintel with your own hands (again, with a miter saw or a miter box). This procedure is done at a 45° angle. Next we do door hinges. Their installation should be done as carefully as possible. It is important to determine the exact value of their depth and the distance between the lower and upper edges of the door leaf. The scheme of work is as follows:

  1. We measure on the rack (on the inside) from the top edge a distance of 20 cm.
  2. We apply the loop to the selected area, outline its contour (use a regular pencil).
  3. When folded, the hinge leaves a free space (gap) from the rack to the canvas of 0.4 cm. We calculate the installation depth of the fitting element, taking into account its thickness.
  4. With a chisel (or better with a milling cutter) we make a platform for the loop.
  5. Similarly, we determine the size and location of the installation of the lower hinge. But in this case, the value of the lower gap (1 cm) must be added to 20 cm.
  6. Having installed the hinges on the rack, we apply this design to the canvas and make marks about the areas where the hinges are located.
  7. It remains to make seats for the loop elements.

You managed on your own challenging task. Now you can deal with the box and platbands. More on this later.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly and installation

Installing the box yourself will be quite simple if you follow the procedure below. You need:

  1. Attach (strictly perpendicular) with a stand to the lintel. If you are installing an interior product made of MDF, in order to avoid cracking it, you must first make holes with a drill and only then install self-tapping screws. Important! Holes are made of a smaller section than the diameter of the hardware used.
  2. Put the box in the opening, and then fix it securely using spacers and wedges.
  3. Take the building level and align it along the horizontal and vertical plane of the structure. After that, feel free to use self-tapping screws.
  4. Hang the door on the hinges. It can be inconvenient to perform such a procedure on your own, so call an assistant. After hanging, check the quality of installation, eliminate certain installation defects, if any.
  5. Close the interior door, install spacers of suitable sizes between the uprights and the canvas. They will save the box from squeezing out when blowing foam.

The last step is to fill the gap between the wall and the door frame. When the foam hardens, the spacers will need to be removed. You just have to install the platbands with your own hands. Everything is simple here - you file an angle of 45 ° and mount the elements in their place. Fastening of installed platbands is recommended: self-tapping screws; special nails (they are called finishing); on glue.

It is advisable to cover the tops of the self-tapping screws with decorative plastic caps. And nail heads are usually overwritten. Congratulations, you installed interior doors on your own, saving a lot of money on the services of specialists!

Starting from 2019, the EU countries are switching to residential construction standards, according to which the level of thermal insulation of private and multi-storey buildings under construction cannot be lower than the “passive” class (energy consumption for heating should not exceed 15 kWh / (m² year)). Thermal resistance windows and doors within this class - not less than 0.9 (m² K) / W. In the climatic conditions of Northern Europe and middle lane RF only Finnish entrance doors meet these requirements. However, in the domestic private housing construction, these products have enjoyed well-deserved respect for more than 20 years, regardless of any foreign standards.

Our developers use the term "doors with a thermal break". What does this mean? To explain, let's take a short digression into architecture and design.

good architectural solution for thermal cutoff is the arrangement of a vestibule with inner door, duplicating the input. However, why spend money on two doors instead of one and lose square meters for the arrangement of the vestibule, if everything can be decided differently?

Two types of heat loss are associated with entrance doors - heat transfer and convection. In the first case, energy saving is achieved by using heat insulators, in the second case, by using high-quality seals that eliminate air leaks through the gaps. The design of the door leaf on the principle of a sandwich panel removes the issue of increased heat transfer over the area. At the same time, the absence of an all-metal shell excludes the formation of a perimetric cold bridge. After all, even a “classic” door that is well insulated inside freezes through for this reason.

What is a thermal break in simple terms: when you remove a pan with metal handles from the stove, then in order not to burn yourself, take an oven mitt. So the tack will be a thermal break.

IN door blocks thermal insulation material divided into several layers. The transitions between the layers of insulation will act as a thermal break.

In addition to direct heat loss in cold winter conditions, all-metal doors can also cause aesthetic inconvenience: frost on the canvas and a puddle of condensate at the threshold in the hallway do not look very “cozy” ... Finnish entrance doors are deprived of all these shortcomings. Along with the insulated sheet, the thermal break in them is also ensured by the structural features of the box.

Other Benefits of Passive House Doors

Like most Scandinavian products, warm wooden doors are positioned not only in terms of energy saving, but also in terms of environmental friendliness. The principle of zero gas emission is maintained with respect to all components - from the frame and filler to the cladding and the type of emulsion finish paint.

The consumer chooses between flat painted or aluminum surfaces, as well as bas-reliefs and millings of various depths and styles. Glass inserts complete the aesthetic palette. By the way, about glass: as in energy-saving windows, warm Finnish doors use a two-chamber double-glazed window with k-glass and argon filling of the chambers.

Finnish warm double-glazed doors

Products of the "arctic" type (as the doors of this category are also called) are superior to conventional wooden input modules in terms of strength, reliability, durability and heat saving. They are not afraid of any climatic zones and vagaries of the weather. Despite the "northern" version, the parameters of the product even in southern conditions improve the microclimate of the house, preventing the penetration of heat into the hallway and living room.

These doors favorably differ from armored metal doors not only because they are warmer. The mass of the product is also important. With the same quality of canopies, Finnish arctic doors open and close easier. Their canvases do not warp during prolonged use.

Distinguishes Finnish manufacturers and a wide range of design developments. Why wide range variability is important entrance doors? The fact is that the interior of a northern European house implies the absence of a hallway. Entry group located in the living room. Therefore, both the entrance from the street and the passages to the rooms are in sight at the same time. Therefore, the product should be in harmony not only with the exterior of the house, but also with the overall style of the interior, if possible, matching the design with interior doors.

Typical configuration of products of the Arctic category

Typically, the leaf of such a door consists of a sandwich with a thickness of 60 mm. Its layers are:

  • Outside, HDF sheets coated with weather resistant paint.
  • Aluminum sheet. Carries the functions of waterproofing and giving the canvas additional rigidity.
  • Frame made of laminated glued laminated timber (does not lead in the most severe climatic conditions).
  • A layer of extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 200 kg/m³.
  • Door lock type Multihela 4565, cylinder TrioVing Assa Abloy.

The frame and threshold are made of hardwood. Section 115×42 mm. There is an aluminum trim on the threshold. It is the rejection of the all-aluminum threshold and its replacement with a one made of solid wood that provides a lower thermal break, which is ignored in traditional designs of entrance door frames. An elastic sealing contour is made both along the perimeter of the web and from the receiving part of the box.

The size range of canvases is based on a multiplicity of 100 mm in width and 10 mm in height. The main dimensions are 900×2100 and 1000×2100. They accept Finnish enterprises and orders for the production of doors for non-standard openings. However, with a competent organization of construction and repair processes, the likelihood of such a need is zero, especially if you take into account the possibility of filling the opening due to side transoms (narrow additional wings).

You should be careful when buying Finnish doors in domestic building supermarkets. To reduce the price, sometimes the original canvases are completed with Russian, Belarusian or Chinese boxes without a lower thermal break and sometimes without a seal .

You should also not order Finnish doors with reinstallation of locks of a different design. It is better to use the original ones, since, in addition to all their other advantages, they provide adjustment of the locking density. And this is important for fitting sealing contours.

The main manufacturers of Finnish doors

We choose warm Finnish doors from trusted manufacturers

The products of the Fenestra brand were the first to enter the domestic market (since 2014, they have been produced under the Kaski brand). Some Finnish models, such as the Fenestra ST2000, are jokingly called “Russian folk doors” by developers and sellers because of their stable (more than 20 years!) demand for them. In addition to Kaski, the brands EDUX and Jeld-Wen have earned the trust of consumers. The average price tag for their products is somewhat lower than that of Kaski with comparable design and quality. Jeld-Wen doors use veneer glued to HDF sheets. This is the only design difference from Kaski and EDUX models.

Kaski except standard thickness 60 mm there is a thermo category with a blade of 86 mm. The meaning of this modification is to increase the thickness of the expanded polystyrene insert. thermo doors are noticeably more expensive than the basic 60 mm models. Another feature of the brand is that hi-tech and modern options are presented in an impressive number of designs. However, in model lines of all the mentioned manufacturers provide solutions for the main types of individual development - archaic stone houses, log cabins in the style of modern country minimalism, cottages with Victorian clinker brick cladding and laconic constructivist concrete "cubes".

Ensuring thermal break during installation

Correct setting of the input wooden doors the arctic has some features associated with the exclusion of cold bridges. First, the horizontalness of the floor surface in the opening is checked and, if necessary, leveled with a wooden plank, smaller in width than the thickness of the door frame. The gap under the bar is carefully foamed (after installing the door). A layer of elastic material with insulating and waterproofing properties is laid on the bar. Usually, mineral wool impregnated with paraffins is used.

The box is being installed traditional method. The only remark concerns the uniformity of the width of the mounting slots between the box and the draft opening: you should try so that the box does not rest against the opening anywhere, and the slot is foamed around the entire perimeter without gaps.

The process of how to independently install doors in a room is divided into several stages. Insertion of fittings is carried out by specialists. Otherwise, the hardware installation scheme is studied in detail.

Interior door device.

Right choice

Before proceeding with the self-installation of an interior door, you will need to find out design features And specifications products. The door leaf is made of wood, plastic, metal, glass, MDF panels.

Measurements before installing an interior door.

Measure the height and width of the opening. The interior door is selected based on the data received. Installation work they are produced so that there is a gap of 10-15 mm between the base base of the opening and the door frame. To prevent the structure from jamming, an additional gap (5 mm) is provided between the door leaf and the frame elements. Before you buy and install doors, you will need to consider the following Finishing work floor surface. The product is checked for chips and other defects.

Installation door structure made using mounting foam, spacers, screws, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a level and a hacksaw for wood. The process under consideration is presented in the form of the assembly of the corresponding box and its installation, installation of the door and trim.

Installation work

First make the ends in the box. Then the structure is assembled. The top of the box is fixed with wedges. Using the level, check the correct position horizontally and vertically. The wedges are hammering. The spacers are installed opposite the lower previous elements. Its parameters should be equal to the length of the door plus 5 mm.

Girth box device.

When installing the door, check the gaps. The structure must open and close freely. The box is foamed mounting foam. Pre-concrete surface is wetted with water. Since the previous material is poisonous, it adversely affects the varnish. It can be protected with mounting tape. The wedges are dismantled after the foam has completely dried. The excess is cut off with a knife.

Related article: How to make a door frame with your own hands: recommendations (video)

To install the platbands, you will need to find out their length. To cut it in a miter box, use a hacksaw. Then the platband is fixed with finishing nails. It is possible to increase the operational life of the door if you take care of it correctly. For this, care products are used. wooden surface. It is forbidden to contact the canvas with alkalis and acids.

MDF box

If the box is presented in the form of MDF, then the door is installed taking into account the weak mechanical properties characteristic of the first design. The elements of the box are assembled depending on the type of mounted doors. The removable pad is installed according to the specified parameters. This technology contributes to the formation of a quarter of the desired width.

Interior door installation.

Then they measure the part of the box that is in contact with the canvas at the junction of the canopies. Excess is cut off. The last element is connected to the door using butterfly hinges. They don't need to be sunk. This factor is important when installing MDF doors. Then mount the remaining parts of the box. They are fixed with screws. Manufacturers advise additionally sealing the fixation points of the elements with wooden chopsticks. For this, PVA glue is used. Pre-make holes.

In order to form the same gap between the canvas and the box, it is recommended to lay linoleum or other material around the perimeter of the parts. A step of 50 cm is observed. The box is pulled together with ropes to the door leaf in 3-4 places. The applied method aligns the frame with the door, taking into account the necessary clearances.

The next step involves installing the door in the opening using spacers from the bars. The resulting space between the box and the opening is filled construction foam. After 24 hours, you can remove the rope. Then handles are cut in and a lock with platbands is installed.

Step-by-step instruction

A hole is cut out in the canvas so that the handle can enter it without hanging out. Similar work is done using an electric unit. First, measure the height at which the handle will be located. The standard value of this indicator is 1 m from the floor. Make a mark on the door. The recess is selected under the body of the mechanism. The lock is installed in the recess, a groove is selected. Then make a hole for the handle. The lock is fixed. The previous element is fixed. The next step involves installing the striker.

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