Impregnation from rotting. Effective protection of wood from moisture and rotting. Preservation of wood from the destructive effects of moisture

Wood remains the most common building material that owners country houses and cottages are used for the construction of various fences on the site. The wattle fence between the recreation area and the beds near the cottage will look harmonious, a beautiful wooden fence around country house or a low wooden picket fence around the flower beds in the yard. But unprotected wood is subject to rapid deterioration due to constant interaction with rain, wind, snow, and the sun.

In shaded areas in the yards of cottages, in places with high humidity, boards quickly lose their original appearance and become moldy or affected by fungus. How to process fence posts and the plank fence of a country house itself so that they retain their attractive appearance for more than one year? There are many ways to treat wood, although fence posts, for example, require different protections for the outside and the one that goes into the ground.

Common mistakes when installing wooden poles

Initially, it is important to understand the reasons why the support posts for the fence become unusable and how they need to be processed. This happens, first of all, under the influence of moisture, which, by impregnating the wood, creates “good” conditions for the development of all kinds of bacteria. And if the top of the pillar has time to dry out under the sun and wind, then at the point of contact with the damp earth, the process becomes irreversible. The tree begins to rot, becomes covered with mold, insect pests start up there. The processes of decay in the lower part of the column are somewhat slower, but inevitable. No better way to prevent this process than to treat the fence posts with antiseptics and waterproof their lower part.

TO common mistakes summer residents when installing wooden poles should include the wrong choice and installation of logs, as well as non-compliance with the rules for processing the underground part.

When choosing columns, pay attention to general state wood - no signs of rot, blue color, pests. The moisture content of wood should not exceed 15%. Logs must be sanded and dried before treatment with antiseptics.

It is important to determine where the log has the top and where the bottom is, since the pole must always be dug up with the butt up. This prevents "sucking" of water through the capillaries.
In no case do not wrap the treated end of the tree with roofing material, since when moisture enters such a “glass”, it remains there forever, creating conditions for decay.

The treatment of wooden poles is necessary with preparations that have antiseptic, moisture-proof and fire-retardant properties.

Compositions for processing the underground part of the pillars

There are many folk methods on how and how to process fence posts.

Here are a few of them:

Coating with birch tar or spruce resin (the oldest and most proven method).
Processing with used car oil (the cheapest way). The oil is applied in several layers in a heated state, thoroughly soaking all the ends and cracks. 90% of the mining composition is mineral oil - a good water-repellent antiseptic. The acid salts contained in the mining kill any fungus in the wood.
Roasting and processing with bitumen. That part of the log that will be buried in the ground can be burned either on a fire or with a gas burner, creating a charred layer of several millimeters. The burnt part is treated with molten tar or bitumen.

The protective layer is applied in two stages, so that each layer of bituminous impregnation can harden, it is necessary to withstand the drying period of the first layer for about a day. Bituminous impregnation is correspondingly black, so only treat the part of the wooden fence post that will be hidden in the ground with it.

It is not recommended to apply bituminous impregnation on wooden poles during fog or rain.

The construction market also offers all kinds of synthetic waterproofing compounds - mastics, pastes, etc. For example, Biom-2 or Izhora bituminous mixtures, several layers of which, in combination with a fiberglass mesh and a protective film, create excellent waterproofing with high protective properties, designed for 10-15 years of operation. Moreover, a 15-kilogram bucket of such a mixture costs only 450 rubles.

Neomid 430 eco - preservative indelible antiseptic for external use, which provides maximum protection for wood during prolonged contact with soil and moisture. Protects against damage by wood-destroying and wood-coloring mold fungi, algae, mosses, as well as wood-boring insects for up to 35 years.

Installing unfinished poles is strongly discouraged.

Step-by-step instructions for installing and protecting support poles

Step one.

We determine where the butt of the log is and mark that this will be the top of the pillar. Before proceeding with the installation of fence posts, its lower part should be treated with a penetrating antiseptic to a height of 1.5 meters. Better by immersion for two days in a 5% solution of copper or iron sulphate. You can also apply a 5% solution of potassium bichromate in 5% sulfuric acid, the remaining solution will need to soak the soil around the dug-in post. This will provide antifungal protection for 15-20 years.

Step two.

After impregnation with an antiseptic, the buried part is treated with one of the types of waterproofing (bitumen, tar, mastic, mining, etc.).

Step three.

We are in the process of installing the pole. There are several various ways, some of which provide additional protection of the post from interaction with wet soil.

Option one (cheapest). The processed end of the column is buried in the ground and carefully rammed. After a few years, it is imperative to check its base for the appearance of fungus or rot.

Option two. Prepare a hole a little over a meter deep and twice as wide as the diameter of the column. The bottom is covered with gravel, then a “glass” without a bottom is made of geotextile or other non-woven material around the perimeter, which will protect the gravel backfill from clogging with earth. The entire space is covered not with soil, but with gravel or rubble, carefully tamped and spilled with mining.

Option three (the most expensive, since the purchase of pipes is added to the costs). Using a sleeve made of a metal or asbestos-cement pipe into which a wooden pole is inserted. Since the sleeve rises 10 centimeters above ground level, the tree will not have direct contact with the ground, and therefore will be subject to decay processes.

The process of installing a wooden pole into a sleeve requires care and time. So that the pillar does not fall inward, you should select a piece of pipe (100 cm) with a diameter less than the diameter of the pillar by about 10 centimeters. The log is laid on the goats and at a height of about 30-40 they make a circular cut, and then with the help of an ax remove the necessary layer. The resulting cylinder should enter the pipe freely.

First, this part of the column is impregnated with drying oil or mining, and allowed to dry for several days. Then, the tar is heated on a fire to a liquid state, the beveled end of the column is thickly coated with a hot mass with a brush, and a piece of pipe is planted. The gap between the tree and the pipe and the lower part of the post are also treated with tar. The resulting pole is buried so that the top of the pipe protrudes slightly above the ground.

Step four.

Impregnation of the visible part of the column with an antiseptic and applying the main coating (paint, varnish). To further protect the pole, experts recommend covering it with a tin cover.

Protective coatings for the visible part of the post

The upper part of the post, which is above ground level, also requires special protection with both antiseptics and protective paints and varnishes. To understand how to process fence posts, decide on the type of coverage. If it is important to preserve the texture of wood, then coatings such as Pinotex or Belinka, Biotex, AVIS timbercoat varnish have long established themselves on the market.

If it is planned to apply paint, then both a simple domestic-made oil paint based on zinc white and wood paints from the largest foreign manufacturers Tikkurila (Finland), Selena (Poland), Alpa (France), Akzo N.V. » (Netherlands), Belinka Belles (Slovenia).

Before applying a layer of paint, the tree is always primed.

The paintwork should be renewed every three to five years to keep the wood from rotting and being damaged by insects.

All photos from the article

With all its undeniable advantages, wood has one significant drawback - poor resistance to decay and pests, especially if the operating conditions are not the most favorable. Of course, there are some breeds that are immune to moisture, but there are not many of them, and the cost of such options is much higher, so the processing of boards from decay is a relevant and important issue, and our article will be devoted to it.

What factors should be considered when choosing a particular option

If you do not know how to process the material, then when determining the solution, you need to be guided by several criteria:

terms of Use	Naturally, all elements located inside buildings are exposed to adverse effects much less than a board used in outdoor structures. It should also be noted that inside the buildings there are rooms with an unfavorable microclimate (for example, a bathroom and a kitchen), which also require additional processing.
Material condition	For example, a heat-treated decking board does not need special protection, and as for ordinary materials, without additional work they will very quickly become unusable, and it is unlikely that they will be able to be restored, and damaged structures will have to be changed.
Node Location	Everything is simple here: if the board is visible, then a colorless composition or options that create an attractive coating are most often used. If the elements are hidden or located in the ground, then there is no talk of external beauty, the most important thing is to ensure the reliability of protection and preserve the properties of the composition after processing for the longest possible time.
Features of the situation	At this point, various factors are taken into account: from financial possibilities, because the price of compositions is often rather big, and large structures require significant volumes, the method of application is also important, because even when doing work with your own hands, you can use a brush, roller or spray gun

Important! If the processing of elements is difficult or impossible, then it is best to purchase a material that has undergone special processes in the factory and has increased resistance to adverse effects.

Wood is the first construction material on the ground. Huts and huts were built from it. It can be given any shape. But with all the advantages of the material, it is necessary to mention the disadvantages - instability to fire and decay. The main method of protection is impregnation for wood from moisture and decay.

Why does rot appear?

Before you go to the store and purchase wood treatment products, it is important to find out what contributes to rot. Among the most common causes are high humidity, lack of fresh air. In such a situation, spores of the fungus actively spread. A little time is enough, and the walls or floor beams will be “decorated” with white or gray spots, often with a velvety effect.

Other reasons also contribute to the appearance of mold and rotting on wood:

the temperature indoors or outdoors changes drastically. Wood fibers are rapidly destroyed, cannot resist the development of fungal colonies;
wooden surfaces and parts are continuously exposed to water: tap or rain;
soil interaction. It concerns . The soil contains not only a sufficient amount of wood-boring bugs capable of as soon as possible destroy the structure of the material, but also bacteria, microorganisms acting at the cellular level. With a sufficient level of humidity, rot and mold spread over the entire surface;
sharp cold spells. Some types of wood without proper treatment absorb significant amounts of water. At sub-zero temperatures, moisture freezes and expands, cracks and rot appear.

What is the danger of rot?

The most obvious answer is that the structure of wood is destroyed in the shortest possible time, stratified, falling apart into pieces. Elements of the porch, fence, building will have to be changed. The consequence is moral discomfort, unfavorable indoor climate, additional costs for repair work.

The main reason forcing a person to fight mold and rot on wood is the spread of numerous respiratory diseases, including asthma. It is easier to eliminate putrefactive spots than to spend years on treatment later.

How to get rid of rot

Most effective method solving a problem is preventing it. It is better to take measures to ensure that rot does not appear than to fight it later. The main way to fight is to conduct annual checks and inspections of all wooden surfaces. This will help to identify infected places in a timely manner and eliminate them in a timely manner.

The main means of combating rot

The industry offers consumers several varieties of wood rot control products. When choosing one or another option, consider the main type of impact:

to protect against rain, snow, moisture from the soil of arbors, pergolas, verandas and terraces, it is better to choose special paint and varnish compositions;
vapor and waterproofing membranes and films will protect against the appearance of condensate and its destructive effects. The option is ideal for baths, bathrooms, rooms with constant high humidity;
Excess moisture from any source will help to remove high-quality drying, but without artificial heating. It is important to emphasize that the effect will be very short-lived.

The only advantage is the minimum investment of money;

a one percent solution of copper sulphate, if it does not completely eliminate rot spots, will slow down their development for several months. Processing will have to be done at least once a year.

Antiseptics and varnishes - the main means of combating rot

Antiseptics are suitable for use regardless of the cause of mold and mildew. Recommended for use both at the stage of construction and design, and during operation, when the fungus has already appeared, and they need to be preserved.

Lacquers and paints. Not only protect wooden products from mold, but also give an attractive appearance, emphasize the structure of the material. The disadvantage is the high price and long time processing taking into account drying and the need to apply several layers.

The use of wood preservatives

If giving comparative characteristic varnishes and antiseptics, then the use of the latter is more financially profitable. In addition, varnishes and paints do not eliminate existing stains, but only preserve them. Antiseptic compounds eliminate those that already exist and prevent the emergence of new ones.

How to choose processing aids

The antiseptic market is filled with products from both foreign and domestic manufacturers. The former are more expensive, but do not always guarantee quality. Which composition to choose, only the buyer decides, based on their own preferences, characteristics of the drug and financial capabilities.

In Russia, you should pay attention to Sarus products. It not only eliminates existing rot, but also prevents new colonies of the fungus from appearing. An important advantage is the low price.

If rot covers a significant part of the surface, you should pay attention to Neomid 500. The good power of the drug is “compensated” by the high price. Among the cheaper analogues with the same characteristics, Liga Bioshield stands out.

For the treatment of very rotten areas, water-based Senezh products are used, which penetrate deeply into the structure of the tree. They are recommended for both primary and secondary processing, and for work in damp, cool places, such as cellars. The only exception is that surfaces must not be painted. oil paint. When choosing a drug from a series, consider the specific task.

The drug Drevosan Profi will help prevent the development of putrefactive processes. Recommended for processing fences, window frames, small architectural forms. An additional advantage is the death of not only mold and rot, but also insects that destroy wood from the inside.

If you want to save money, buy one drug for both external and internal works? Spend money on the antiseptic "Bicidol-100". An important advantage is that the composition not only forms a protective film on the surface, but also penetrates the wood structure without changing it. During the entire period of operation, the tree will be under reliable protection from both water and fire. The disadvantage is that the color of the tree will change to green. If you want to avoid this, pay attention to the modification of the drug "Bicidol-500". Preservation of the original color is guaranteed.

The choice of treatment agent should be made only after careful consideration. specifications, composition, principle of action and side effects. No less important is the method of application - with a brush, spray gun. Some formulations provide that the product must be completely dipped into the solution.

The duration of the drugs

The combination of constant humidity and high temperatures creates favorable conditions for the appearance and development of rot. A quality drug will delay this moment by 12 years or more. Antiseptics protect against both fungus and fire. The maximum validity period is no more than 7 years. For the treatment of buildings, design elements, fence posts, water-resistant compositions are intended. Then for 30 years or more you won't have to worry about repairs or replacements. Ideally, the composition of the drug includes components that protect against the appearance of cracks.

Don't buy random funds. Read the instructions from the manufacturer, consumer reviews. Careful selection is a guarantee of getting rid of mold and rot. Preliminary cleaning of existing stains of rot, dirt, paint or varnish will help to enhance the effect of any drug.

Do-it-yourself wood preservative (video)

Natural wood is, of course, the leader among materials for building a house. Absolute environmental friendliness of wood, high aesthetics and easy unlimited possibilities use - all this reveals the secret of the popularity of the material for many centuries. However, wood is not without its drawbacks. First of all, this is a weak level of resistance to negative external factors. That is why the question of how to treat wood and boards from decay is extremely important for all connoisseurs of natural and natural.

How to treat wood and boards from decay

The processes of biological destruction of wood, or rotting, is a rather unpleasant process, which, unfortunately, is inherent in this material. The processes of decay begin to occur and accelerate:

At high air humidity;
At high humidity of the feedstock;
When there is no good ventilation;
With temperature fluctuations;
When condensation accumulates;
During the freezing of the material;
Frequent contact with damp soil.

It is best to apply preventive measures even during the harvesting and storage of wood.

During storage, the moisture content of wood decreases, so it is advisable to use a tree that has lain felled. Previously, this technique was used: they cut down a tree in the winter in order to start construction in the summer. Currently, there is no need to withstand such a long period. Technological measures are used to protect wood.

Wood decay treatment involves protecting the wood from moisture penetrating through the pores. This can be done with a good waterproofing layer, from the moisture contained in the atmosphere - by painting with special paint and a good roof. High-quality thermal insulation and a vapor barrier coating, pre-equipped ventilation will protect against condensates.

In addition, it is necessary to place wooden structure buildings are much higher than ground level. In addition, the ends of the log house wall should be sheathed with boards and treated with a special tool. But first things first.

In order to wooden product For many years it has pleased you with its aesthetic characteristics and reliable design. Experts advise preventive processing of the material at the manufacturing stage.

Means for treating wood from decay

Modern methods of combating decay processes involve processing with special means:

The ends can be processed with Senezh TOR;
The walls can be covered with a special Senezh NEO product, which will protect it from moisture penetration;
It is also possible to apply a finishing layer of finishing like Senezh Akvadecor.

Attention. Lately, they are becoming more frequent negative feedback about Senezh products. When choosing funds, consult several points of sale.

All these methods in their complex combination will help protect the wood from decay. It is up to you to decide which impregnation against wood decay is better to choose, you need to be based on the type of wood and its operating conditions.

End processing Senezh TOR video:

Fire retardant wood treatment

Wood, unfortunately, is a very combustible material. You can protect it from fire by using special means. They are best combined with the treatment of wood with an antiseptic. The best conditions for wood impregnation are:

Low moisture content of wood (up to 25%);
The temperature of the impregnation itself is about 60-85 ° C;
Application of impregnation on specially made tattoos.

Previously, buildings in the private sector were not treated for fire. Currently, such preventive treatment is practiced. In such cases, you can cover the surface with special refractory materials, simple impregnation with saline solutions is often used. In the second case, when fire hits the surface, the salt begins to melt and creates a film that can stop the fire.

Fire fighting equipment is divided into:

Passive ones create a film on the surface of the tree. A good protection against fire is impregnation with compounds formed on the basis of ammonium sulfates and phosphates, boric acid and storms. The advantages of borax and boric acid are that they have an additional antiseptic effect. When fire hits the surface, the salt begins to melt, creating a film that can stop the fire.
Active agents not only block the access of oxygen. BUT and contribute to a decrease in temperature, emit non-combustible gases, prevent the release of resins and combustible gases.

You can prepare a wood impregnation agent at home according to the recipe given in the video.

Means for protecting wood from fires, or fire retardants, can be:

Senezh OGNEBIO;
Neomid 450;
Pirilax;
Valty Pokhyusti.

Processing is carried out by means of the above means in several layers.

Antiseptic
Conservation

Both methods involve the use of special chemical substances. Antiseptic means applying a special substance - an antiseptic manually, with a brush or roller. And conservation - only in the factory by soaking raw materials in special baths, as well as autoclaving.

There are several types of antiseptics. Their use is mandatory in cases where mold has already begun to appear. They are:

Water soluble. Completely eco-friendly, do not have an unpleasant odor and dry quickly. Ideal for wall, floor, ceiling, window and door surfaces. It is not recommended to use them for a tree that has constant contact with water.
Water repellent. They have a rather sharp odor, but a deeper level of penetration. Excellent for use in baths, saunas, basements and cellars.
Flying basis. They cover the wood with a thick film that takes a long time to dry. Perfectly are suitable both for interior, and for front processing.
Oil based. They are water insoluble and also form a strong film. They can only be used to impregnate dry wood. Not recommended for residential areas.
on a combined basis. Great for any kind of wood. They have not only antiseptic, but also fire and bioprotective properties.

Specific means

The following remedies are excellent for protecting wood from mold:

"Wood Doctor" Suitable for all types of wood, regardless of the level of damage. Non-toxic and completely safe.
"Bioks" - belongs to the class of protective-textural coatings. It protects the wood from mold, and is also able to emphasize the texture of the wood. It can be both colored and transparent.
"Biosept" - is considered one of the the best means. It can be used both inside and outside. It is based on new generation biocides. The tool is absolutely environmentally friendly, reliable and safe.
"Aquatex" is great for planed and sawn surfaces (for example, doors, poitus, platbands and much more).
"Pinotex" is also great for almost any type of wood, does not fade and provides excellent protection.
"Elkon" there are several varieties that differ in their characteristics. It is applied outside and in rooms. It is used for drawing on freshly processed material.
Carticide compound. You can get acquainted with its characteristics by watching the video.

Recommendations for choosing means for treating wood from decay

Before choosing an impregnation in the store, depending on the operating conditions of the wood, pay attention to the following characteristics:

Does the impregnation cause corrosion of the metal. This quality must be taken into account if further connection with metal fasteners is expected.

Duration of impregnation on wood.

How deeply the impregnation penetrates into the wood. Is it suitable for rooms with high humidity.

How environmentally friendly is the impregnation? Is it possible to use it inside residential premises or places where animals live.

Is the impregnation designed to counteract the appearance of fungus.

Is it possible to use this impregnation in rooms with temperature changes.

Does not emit an unpleasant odor from the treated surface during temperature changes or high humidity.

These questions can be asked to a representative of the trading organization. All information is available in the instructions attached to the materials.

Coating rules

In order to apply a protective coating, special knowledge and skills are not required. You can do this work on your own. Before starting work, pay attention to the following characteristics:

Stock up on protective equipment such as a mask, gloves and goggles.
In the process, you will need the following tools: a brush, a metal brush, detergents, sandpaper and scraper.
Before starting work, inspect the wood itself. Cracks on its surface indicate the need for processing.
The optimal time for work is considered to be a temperature of 20-25 0 C. It is allowed to start work at 10 0 C, and not higher than 40 0 C. It is strictly forbidden to work out a frozen tree.

If the wood has previously been treated or coated, all traces on the surface must be cleaned and removed.

Perform preparatory work and processing in the following sequence:

Clean the wood of dirt and old coatings with a solvent or scraper.
Treat the surface with sandpaper and remove dirt with a detergent solution.
Create conditions for the wood to dry completely.
When applying protective agents, pay special attention to end surfaces, joints, cuts.
In the case of applying a second layer of work, perform at least three hours later.

It will take at least 48 hours for the coating to dry completely. The time may vary depending on the temperature, humidity in the room.

Processing a log house with an antiseptic video

Folk methods of wood protection

There are also folk methods for protecting wood without chemistry from fires. This is the preparation of a solution based on clay, salt and water. The proportion of its preparation is as follows:

Clay - 75 parts;
Salt - 5 parts;
Water - 20 parts.

All this mixture is diluted to a thick mass and applied in several layers. Also among folk remedies popular coating, prepared on the basis of superphosphates. The mixture is made according to the ratio of water and superphosphate 25 to 75. It is applied in a similar way in two or three layers.

Important: such a coating tends to harden after 5-6 hours, so the prepared composition must be used during this period, otherwise it will become unusable.

The problem of how to treat wood and boards from decay has been of interest to people for a long time. And over the years there have been many folk methods protecting wood from biodegradation. So, what to do with the tree so that it does not rot:

Conclusion

Protective equipment is selected individually. Processing of terraces, arbors, rafters and rough floors is carried out using hard-to-remove solutions. If there is very high humidity in the premises, then products with an ultra-reliable level of protection are used. You should also consider:

room temperature;
Terms of Use;
Validity period of funds;
Exterior finish.

You need to choose the means and methods based on your own needs and preferences.

We also recommend you:

The lower crown of the bath, which is the least protected from moisture, or wooden frame rots in the first place. This can be prevented by timely processing of the first link. This article is for those who want to keep the lower crown and want to do it right. How to process the lower crown of a bathhouse or a wooden frame from a bar and how to do it correctly will be discussed below.

Without understanding the cause, it is impossible to prevent decay and extend its service life. And the replacement of this link is painstaking and costly work that requires special knowledge and skills. By determining the cause of rotting, it is possible even at the stage when a house is being built from a bar, it is possible to prevent undesirable consequences. The main reasons include:

Broken or incorrect waterproofing between concrete pouring And brickwork top of the foundation of the house. Usually, roofing material is used for these purposes. So moisture does not rise up through the pores of the brick, and a wet base under the first crown of a bath or a log house from a bar is not the best option.
Broken or improperly laid second layer of waterproofing between the bottom log and the foundation surface.
The “vents” are not fulfilled and the foundation with the lower links is not ventilated.
Precipitation fell and stagnated on the roofing felt, as there is no protective ebb. It is performed in different ways, the easiest way is to close the joint along the perimeter with a board or cylindering. You can purchase a ready-made drain and install it on the basement of the foundation of the house due to a small extension beyond the masonry. Another option is a concrete screed along the upper part of the foundation with a slope from the log house, covered from above by any roof.
Insufficiently processed lower crown.

The absence of any of the above factors will lead to rotting of the log cabin of the bath.

What crown treatments are best to use?

exist folk ways than to process the lower crown of the bath and modern compositions such as: Senezh, Belinka, Tikkurila. For greater savings, it is better to use folk and proven means, but the appearance of processing in this case will not be the best. For more decorative, traditional ones are suitable. The second option is advised to use by professionals, as it is safer and more proven. Of course, acquiring expensive coverage, no one is immune from fakes, the quality of which is not even worth talking about. For this reason, most people prefer the old-fashioned ways of processing the first link of the bath and building a house from glued beams. Let's talk about those and others in more detail.

Folk remedies

Use a solution of copper sulfate. To do this, a log of natural moisture is placed on the end, and a bag with a rag heavily soaked in copper sulfate is tied up on top. The rag should be in contact with the end of the beam. Under the influence of natural movements of juices inside the wood, the timber will be saturated with saline and will protrude from below. The rag must be soaked all the time so that it does not dry out. After that, it is well dried under a canopy. Craftsmen offer to soak the log in a bath with copper sulphate. Immediately make a reservation that this method is not safe for health. When heated blue vitriol emits toxic fumes for humans.
Treat the lower crown of the bath or at home with propolis and oils, then rub with wax. The method looks somewhat fantastic, but it is used in the villages and it is time-tested, although laborious.
The famous method of processing in the West and among the Finns. It is prepared from ingredients available to everyone: flour (rye or wheat) - 750-800g, blue vitriol - 1.5 kg, table salt - 400 g, lime (slaked) - 1.5 kg are diluted in 10 liters of water. Cooking: While stirring constantly, water is added to the flour, achieving the state of sour cream. 5 liters of water is heated not to a boil and poured while stirring. Then everything is mixed and filtered. The finished mixture is heated, stirring constantly, adding vitriol and salt. Slaked lime is added last. It is necessary to cover the crown with a warm composition in 2 layers, after the first has completely dried. Experts say that such processing at home is enough for 10-15 years. With this composition, you can even process the bottom of the floor in baths and completely build a house from profiled timber.
Softwood timber is the least susceptible to decay and can be treated with birch tar or spruce resin. Such compounds will protect the wood from bugs, but have a strong unpleasant odor, in addition, spruce resin is sticky. After such processing, the crowns of the house cannot be painted or sanded. It is also a fire hazard, as these substances are highly flammable. Therefore, it is customary to treat with such compounds the part that is in contact with the ground.
In rural areas, the lower link of the log cabin of a bath from a bar can be processed by working off motor oils. The biggest plus of such processing is cheapness. Apply it in a heated or cooled state in several layers, allowing the previous one to soak well. 90% of this composition consists of mineral oils, and they repel water well. The soot contained in the used oil protects the logs from the sun and is an antiseptic. But it has already been proven that impregnation in this way is not of sufficient quality, since it does not penetrate the wood evenly. In addition, such a coating has a mourning color.
The method of processing timber with bitumen or tar has not gone away. Underground structures are processed with such compositions heated and mixed with diesel fuel. Today, manufacturing companies offer modern bituminous impregnations and mastics.
Drying oils and oils, they can only conditionally be attributed to folk, since these compounds are the basis of varnishes and modern paints. Hold for a long time, do not peel off and do not crack. For deeper penetration, it is better to apply warm. So they will be more fluid.
Moisture penetrates best from the ends of the link; to prevent this, the ends are “riveted”. To do this, the ends of the bath logs are tapped with a rubber or wooden hammer. This treatment will help the wood stay dry longer and prevent cracking.
Burning the surface of the beam with a blowtorch. This method is not safe, but a thin layer of burnt wood serves as a good antiseptic and destroys the capillaries through which moisture enters the tree.

Traditional processing aids

Such processing includes all kinds of drying oils, impregnations, coatings. Let's talk about some of them in more detail.

"Senezh"

Produced by SENEZH-Preparaty LLC. It has been tested and certified by Rospotrebnadzor of the Ministry of Health and Social Development of the Russian Federation. Fire bioprotective composition produced in polyethylene canisters of 5, 10, 65 and 1000 kg. Performs the role of complex protection of wood, including the lower crown. Do not use after varnish, drying oil or any other water-repellent composition. Included in the 2nd group in terms of the effectiveness of fire protection according to NPB 251-98. The term of protection is up to 20 years. Does not change the color of wood, does not prevent the penetration of air. Has no smell. It has penetrating properties and accumulates in the inner layers of wood, preventing the penetration of moisture and fungi.

Processing: It is applied to the cleaned wood with a roller, brush or sprayer at a temperature not lower than +50C. You need to apply in 2-3 layers, allowing the previous one to dry for 20-40 minutes. Do not process a frozen link or mix with other impregnations. Must be mixed before application. Consumption: 600 g/m2 (1.6-1.7 m2/kg).

"Belinka"

Produced by the Australian manufacturer "Belinka". Certified by the Australian Holzforschung Institute. To protect the crown, use Belinka Base.

Impregnation - primer Belinka is a deeply penetrating composition of alkyd resin and biocides. Protects wood from fungus, pests, blue, moisture. Creates a protective biocidal layer on the surface. Unlike other compounds, it has several types of biocides, which increases the level of protection several times. Available in containers of 1, 2.5, 5 and 10 liters.

Treatment: Apply with a roller or brush on the cleaned surface in 2 coats. Drying of each layer 6-12 hours. Application temperature from +10C. At sub-zero temperatures, it can also be used, but it will dry for more than 12 hours. Consumption: 1l / 5-10m2.

The manufacturer is the Finnish company Tikkurila Oy. The company has been operating in the industry of paints and varnishes and antiseptics for over 100 years. For the treatment of baths and wooden houses from moisture, fungi, blue and mold use the Tikurilla Vinha and Valti product lines. These lines are specially designed for adverse climatic conditions. They can be used for both external and internal work.

Products that form a protective film on wood are produced under the names "Color Extra" and "Color Satin". Absorbent protective lines "Aqua Color", "Color", primer "Pohyuster".

Each of the listed coatings are antiseptics and protective agents against moisture and rot. All of them can be colored or coated on top with paints on wood. Available in 2.5, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 50, 100 liters. The term of protection is 5-10 years.

Processing: Apply to the cleaned surface with a brush or roller in 2-3 layers. Application temperature from +50C. Each layer should dry from 2-3 hours. Water-based antiseptics can be applied with a sprayer, as shown in the video:

The price of traditional coatings

You can buy coatings for the crown of a bath or at home at any hardware store or market, and even on the Internet. Be sure to ask the seller to show the certificate for the purchased products. Due to the high popularity of these protective equipment, fakes that are not safe for health began to appear on the market.

It is easy to distinguish a fake from a quality product:

Too low price.
Poor quality packaging.
Lack of supporting documentation.

For the convenience of readers, we present the average price for coatings in Russia for 2014 in the form of a table:

As can be seen from the table, Senezh will be the most profitable option for processing the first crown of your bath or home. Tikkurila is the most expensive. Quality in this case depends little on the brand. Which processing of the first crown to use will be the envy of your buying opportunities. Professional products are safer and quality tested.