Make a stove in a brick house. Drawings and schemes for laying brick heating furnaces. What materials are used for laying a brick oven

Do-it-yourself oven, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick oven is made.

Consider the order of the furnace, which we will do with our own hands:
First

Second

We install the blower door with a size of 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast-iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of a brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay a grate with a size of 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut down a niche in bricks so that there is a gap around the perimeter of the grate with a size of one centimeter.

Seventh

We cut down two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate, to roll the coals into the furnace.
We install the first smoke damper, which, in the open state, provides the summer mode of the furnace.
Install a furnace door measuring 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We grind the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, install a half brick on the edge.

Eleventh

We will cut grooves in bricks for installing a stove with a size of 300x720 (mm).

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Similarly, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

We grind the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, ordering as in the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch a video for a complete understanding of the masonry process.

So, you can assemble an inexpensive oven with your own hands.

The device and schemes of furnaces for the home

1. Scheme of laying a heating furnace from two tiers
2. Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of stoves for the home with predominant bottom heating
4. Furnace masonry, designed by V.

Groom-Grzhimailo
5. Laying the furnace, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Conventionally, heating furnaces can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of used long time of imperfect heating units, manufacturing companies produce improved models of heating devices based on the latest technologies.

But in private households and suburban summer cottages, heating brick stoves are still widely used, while the schemes of stoves for the home are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year there are fewer and fewer experienced stove-makers who are able to repair or remake them.

Currently, classic wood-burning stoves for houses, with their characteristic advantages, are not used to heat the premises, but to give the interior a uniqueness and originality.

Scheme of laying a heating furnace from two tiers

The device of the two-tier heating furnaces shown in the photo is a design of two parts located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat transfer of the lower part of the furnace is 3200 kcal per hour, and the upper one is 2600 kcal/hour.

In furnaces for private households, brick laying with voids is provided in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of bunk ovens have a completely identical device.

In such heat units, a channelless smoke circulation system is used. According to the scheme of laying the furnace, gases from the firebox enter the upper hood with a nozzle. After cooling, the gases go down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, go through the liner into the mounted chimney.
At the lower furnace, the chimney runs through the upper half of the structure. For this reason, the latter of them has a smaller heating surface.

The upper part of the structure has a separate chimney.

The device of the heating furnace of a two-tier design is distinguished by the simplicity of laying bricks, and the scheme for moving gases is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part such a door is located in the side wall (in more detail: "Heating stoves for the house - do-it-yourself masonry").

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. Pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke dampers.

Usually, the upper part of the voids in two-tier heating furnaces is covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural array.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: "How to repair a brick oven with your own hands").

Carefully lay out the chimney for the lower part of the heating bunk structure.
If leaks are allowed in the masonry, the wall separating the two pipes in the upper part will allow heat to pass even when the two smoke dampers are closed.

In a single array, if desired, you can combine different types furnaces having a rectangular or square shape and operating on various types of fuel.

Do-it-yourself stove laying schemes

Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is distinguished by a combined or mixed smoke circulation system. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat transfer is 4200 kcal/hour.

Device heating stoves square shape with lower heating suggests that the firebox in it has a relatively large height.

The lateral openings located symmetrically on both sides (2 pieces each) serve to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas then descends through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, the gases enter the risers through the lower screws and rise up through them.

There, the side chambers together form the so-called upper cap, which consists of three U-shaped cavities. These cavities are located in parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to a mounted chimney and evaporate into the atmosphere. See also: "Heating stoves in development."

Consequently, the schemes of furnaces for a square-shaped house with lower heating have 3 caps - the upper cap and 2 large chambers.

In such a heating structure, any type of solid fuel can be used.
If it is planned that the furnace will operate on coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid out exclusively from refractory bricks.

Schemes of stoves for the home with predominantly lower heating

If the heating structure has predominant lower heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer of 2640 kcal / h.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this furnace is classified as a combined duct heating unit with bottom heating.

When a furnace heating scheme for a private house is created using this design, it is understood that flue gases from the firebox will first descend and then rise up the riser to the ceiling (see also: “Kuznetsov’s heating furnaces: do-it-yourself drawings and ordering”).

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then they will go to the last of the risers, which passes into the chimney.

The above design is distinguished by a rational solution and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulating gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a cap with a nozzle.
The principle of operation of the structure provides the air with the opportunity to pass at the bottom of the hood and at the same time it does not cool down.

The masonry of this stove is easy to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will go into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

The channelless scheme of laying the heating furnace shown in the photo was developed by Professor V.

Groom-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating structure. It has a rounded shape and is placed in a case made of sheet steel. Gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but under the influence of gravity. As a result, the cooled and heavier gases sink to the bottom, and the hot lungs rise to the top.

This furnace device for the house consists of two parts - at the bottom there is a firebox.

There is a small hail (mouth) in its ceiling, which ensures the passage of flue gases to the upper part, which is a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called channelless or bell-shaped.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the ceiling, and when they cool down, they fall along the walls to the base.

From there, they enter the chimney and, under the influence of draft, are carried away into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal one is along it.

Buttresses are located along the walls of the structure from the ceiling towards the vault, designed to increase the internal surface of heat absorption and for better absorption of heat by the brick mass from exhaust gases.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the design developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to perform masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, despite the fact that the unit heats up quickly enough. See also: "Which brick oven is better for the house - types, advantages and disadvantages."

The creation of this furnace is not difficult.

Its advantage is as follows:

- in the event that the smoke damper on the pipe is not tightly closed, the upper part of the device will not cool down from the cold air entering the firebox.

Air penetrating into the fuel compartment through the slots in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the hood, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes to the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the hail is not subjected to cooling.

As for the shortcomings of the scheme of furnaces for a house of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. In order to level this minus a little, it is necessary to arrange holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove functions perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with firewood, especially damp, the gaps between the buttresses will become clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are in the 8th row, which does not allow you to completely get into all the gaps of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the root pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made rectangular or square.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the cap should be made thicker up to half a brick. See also: "Brick shield for a metal furnace."

Masonry of the furnace, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Schemes of stoves for the home, developed at the Thermal Engineering Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have a size of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a mine-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the ceiling, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move along the collection channel to the smoke riser. If the smoke valve is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
A feature of the furnace arrangement scheme lies in the different wall thicknesses of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the flame channel. He has outer wall 3/4 brick thick. The rest of its walls are laid in half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its layout is simple.

The efficiency of the furnace engineer Kovalevsky is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heat unit is the possibility of overheating of its upper part, since the hottest gases are directed into it. They will go down the furnace completely cooled down, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: " gas stove for the home - convenient heating").

Chimneys are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and this facilitates the care of the combustion chamber by lowering the slag into the ash pan or steel box located under the grate. The smoke in the structure is discharged into the built-in pipeline.

Today, owners prefer to build these brick kilns. country houses and country buildings.

In the struggle for fuel economy, and, accordingly, money, improved designs began to appear.

Now there are a large number different types new heating devices, which you can also pay attention to.

An interesting scheme of the furnace for the house is shown in the video:

Furnace masonry

The bricks of the first row are first laid out without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using the level to check the horizontal position. With light blows of the mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with mortar bricks, controlling the masonry level.

With a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the furnace in terms of and diagonally. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on the mortar.

Having laid the first row, we lay the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners with a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we lay out the perimeter first, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer nails 80-100 mm long into the corners in the seam between the first and second row.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately to all corners of the second row and mark on the ceiling the points from which the plumb line was lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace in space is obtained. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order.

In the course of laying, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of excess squeezed mortar with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet cloth.

The thickness of the oven masonry seam should be as thin as possible.

How to fold a brick oven with your own hands

In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of ligation of bricks. Each vertical seam must be covered with a brick of the next upper row.

Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always achievable. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the length of the brick.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because.

it can withstand higher temperatures. Dressing the seams of masonry from fireclay and oven bricks is not desirable due to different coefficient linear expansion.

Therefore, either the entire row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace lining is made on edge. We leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and fireclay bricks.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for tight fit of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

We eliminate the detected defects before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the holes of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

We apply mortar to the brickwork at the place where the door is installed. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks.

Then we lay the ends of the wire in the seams of the masonry.

Installation of the grate

When installing oven appliances, it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand the same when heated.

This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in the high temperature zone. If they are tightly walled up in the furnace masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, furnace door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installing the furnace door

The furnace door is installed, as well as the blower door, only it is wrapped with asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontality of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

With intensive use of the furnace, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the top of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame.

The clamp is attached to the door with rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or a brick to the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is performed by a wedge jumper.

Plate installation

The row on which it will be installed, lay out the plate first without mortar.

We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account the temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the plate. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord into it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, achieving its horizontal level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of mortar of 25-30 mm to prevent the walls of the oven from burning through.

Arches and vaults

When laying furnaces, it is often necessary to block various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using bridges of simple and complex shapes. The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap arranged between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault must be odd. The middle odd brick is the castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of the arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes.

You can not use one form of the heel for all arches and vaults.

These photographs show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so I have prepared a video guide "Do-it-yourself ovens" especially for you, which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying the stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the oven with the pipe installed without a base must not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you are laying a slab base, you should check to see if the chimney can switch between the support beams in the attic and the shingles.
The base of the oven must not be tied to the base of the house, and the structure of the oven must not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can let them sit at the incision and swelling. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in case of unequal settlement of the house.
Wooden elements of the house and smoke must be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the kiln is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar must be potable or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the surface of the brick will appear as a white coating.
The grout sand must be used by a quarry (not a river) because the river sand particles have a rounded surface, making the grout brittle.
Stove and fireplace - brick column on clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side impacts from the load-bearing structures of home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to look for when making masonry bricks

Protect yourself and make sure the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid base, a horizontal wall and the verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is superimposed on it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured on top and leveled, and the first colorless brick is laid. Repair the gasket and press the hammer on the protruding bricks. The horizontality of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first row is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each line, check its flatness using the wall rule. After installing the two types, in order to ensure the verticality of the furnace box, you need to pull out the strings with a thickness of 1-3mm at the corners of the wall.

Ceiling attachment points are determined by the towing line. Above, the water line is lowered in such a way that the weight drops to the top of the outer corner of the oven. On the floor on the ceiling, from which the groove descends, the nail bends, a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope, we insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

The rope vertical is then exposed to the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place laying strips along the edges of the joint, spread the mortar, place the brick and place it in place with a stroke of the handle. After the solution has dried, remove the spacers.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained with Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, as bricks are more prone to breakage.
Parts of cigarettes are located side by side in the seams.
In the area reversing the flow of the smoky bottom, always the door is defined as a cleaning hole, or better "brick push" that extends 5-10 mm from the wall, is easier to understand than the necessary cleaning of the chimney.
The gasket must be planned so that the brick does not rely solely on the door frame or oven, and closes over them or is made wedge-locked or vaulted.

This is done to simplify the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less as metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer be broken by this clutch. To avoid this, place the steel bands loose, without mortar or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use asbestos with a layer of 5 mm that you are in contact with the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are laid with a minimum step of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under smoke smoke up to 70-150mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened and laid along the firebox recesses, and the ashes will be difficult to clean the poker when preparing the stove for subsequent ignition.
Doors and corners must be fixed in the wall, which is screwed into holes and steel wire with two-core wires.

At the other ends twist past the nail and pull the wire, keep it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side wall of the oven must be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the pipe frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the draft will be insufficient and smoke will occur in the chimney.
The walls of the chimneys must be flat and even.

To the solution in the chicken, the vertical channels do not get inside the oven, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney on a wire.

Periodically remove and clean it, make a canopy from the channel with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the ceiling of the oven to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the floor must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
To protect the floor under the fireplace stove, place a metal heating sheet.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
Area ratio cross section a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entrance to the fireplace should be approximately 13%, a chimney height of 10 m - about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire (or as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a pipe, a cap on a pipe) must be installed.

Protects the oven from smoking in windy weather and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Brick heating stoves

Since ancient times, brick has been used to build a furnace. Thanks to modern technologies it became possible to use other Construction Materials.

Despite this, the brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials, brick heating stoves are in great demand.

Many build stoves for the home on their own, as this process is quite simple.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding. Installing such a furnace will not be difficult, since it does not require further lining. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

For this work, a small number of tools are needed, namely:

• Container for preparing the solution.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick ovens

Currently, there are separate types of brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for preparing delicious and healthy home-cooked food, and others perform only decorative functions.

There are also models that perform several functions at once, these include a heating and cooking stove made of bricks. This type of stove is also called "Swede", and in some areas they are called "Dutch".

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, the opinions of different people are divided. Some believe that the fireplace should stand separately, others are quite satisfied with the built-in stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and the use of consumables. Such an oven heats up the room quickly enough. In addition, a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

So, it can become an adornment of absolutely any home.

A brick oven-barbecue is a simple device, although it looks rather complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to an ordinary barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the courtyard of your own house will not be difficult. (See also: Brick ovens for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick ovens belonging to a certain type are strikingly different from each other.

Furnace Requirements

Most of the sites that are devoted to this topic set themselves the task of selling already finished project ovens. But what about people who decide to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create brick heating stove projects.

To greatly facilitate your work, you need to understand what requirements apply to modern brick kilns.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drafting absolutely all types of brick ovens. The list of requirements includes: (See also: Do-it-yourself oven construction)

1. Profitability.
2. The ability to retain heat for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire volume of the furnace.
5. Easy to operate.
6. Ease of maintenance.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of the furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

The heating stove is best placed in the center of the house, since if it adjoins at least one side to the wall facing the street, its efficiency will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature fluctuations may occur, which negatively affect the life of the hearth. As well as the efficiency of the chimney.

The combination oven must be positioned in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. And the stove-fireplace should be located in the living room with a fireplace.

Solution preparation

Next, you need to do cement mortar. For its preparation, clay is poured with water. At the same time, it must be sifted in advance, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick oven for a summer residence)

Important: a properly prepared clay mortar is a guarantee of the durability of the stove.

Soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be thoroughly mixed so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency so that when pressed on the brick, it is squeezed out from the seam.

dry masonry

Before you start laying the brick on the mortar, it is recommended to make a dry masonry.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to a disastrous result.

To keep the correct direction when laying, it is necessary to check its verticality, dressing of seams, internal organization, the correctness of the seams and the horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay the oven)

The construction of the furnace

Before starting to use a brick, it is dipped in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that clay releases.

When laying a brick, it is necessary to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

In this way, a more durable building can be achieved. Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the mortar due to their design features. It should be at least 3 and not more than 5 millimeters.

Excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is fixed with wire.

If this is neglected, a backlash may form, which will lead to the door falling out. For a more secure fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After that, it is required to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick block, into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must match with the door frame.

A gap of even one millimeter should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, it is required to dry the stove. To do this, open all windows and doors. The oven will dry out completely only after 15 days. The fact that the stove is ready for use is indicated by the disappearance of all damp traces.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the place, the first row is laid, on which a sheet of thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or waterproofing is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for the waterproofing device. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After that, sand is sifted, which is then poured in a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the site is carefully leveled. Verification is carried out by the building level.

In order not to be mistaken with the built structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. On this, the most important row can be considered ready.

After that, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of mortar and a blower door is placed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is fixed with annealed wire, after which you can prepare for the formation of the next row.

The third row must be laid out from fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

A grate is laid on the same row. The fourth row is laid on edge. Also at this stage, it is necessary to make special stands inside the chimney. It is worth noting that the bricks of the back wall are laid without the use of mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called knockout.

A little later, the installation of the furnace door is carried out.

So that it can open from the bottom up, it is wrapped with an asbestos cord, after which it is fixed with wire. For some time it is supported by bricks. To make sure it stays vertical.

The manufacture of the back wall is carried out using two bricks, which are placed on the edge.

And already from the next row, the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Scheme and laying of brick ovens

This will allow you to perform a more durable dressing of the seams.

On the eighth row, a beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. The ninth row needs to be moved back a little to provide support while opening the door. Before installation hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. A chimney is formed from the same row, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent the passage of smoke into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be docked with a metal pipe. If it shifts to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, the inside of the stove is cleaned from clay and water through the knockout brick.

A piece cut from polyethylene material is placed on the hob. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. On this brick oven with a stove is ready. We must not forget that it will be possible to use it only after it has completely dried out.

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Drawings of a brick sauna stove

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the construction of a brick oven, in a section along two sections.

How drawings with orders help to lay out brick ovens for the house

1. Red brick masonry.
2. Laying fire-resistant (chamotte) bricks.
3. Furnace door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bin for bath stones.
8. Smoke damper.

Drawing of the furnace, where its overall dimensions are indicated.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant bricks. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15…20 (mm). Behind the firebox, at the level of the grate, a metal water tank is installed.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, in which stones with a slide are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material specification:

• red brick, 65 x120 x 250 (mm) - 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) - 72 (pcs.)
• clay - 60 (kg)
• refractory clay - 35 (kg)
• sand - 32 (kg)
• smoke damper - 140 x 270 (mm)
• furnace door - 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door - 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate - 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank - 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• stone bin - 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15…20 (mm)

Masonry stove for a sauna heater designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is displayed at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the blower door, start laying refractory bricks, while strictly observing the rules for ligation of bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. The blower door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. They put the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5 ... 8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bin for stones.

Drawing of a metal bunker for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17 row. Grooves are cut out in bricks and a valve is installed in them.
18 row. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of a brick sauna stove designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are considered in the presented material.

Reference:
The heating time of water and stones is 150…180 (min.)

In the following article, you can familiarize yourself with the device sauna stove with heat exchanger.

For the device of furnace heating of small country cottages or country houses in order to save materials and money, it makes sense to choose projects of heating stoves made of bricks of small dimensions and simple in execution. Then, having acquired building materials in accordance with the project, you can get down to business on your own, having previously studied how the laying of stoves is done with your own hands.

Heating and cooking stove

What type of stove to choose?

At the very beginning, you need to decide what the design of the furnace will be in your home. For this you need to study existing species stoves for the home and choose for yourself suitable option from the suggested list:

• Dutch channel-type stoves and the like take up the least space, are the easiest to build and are undemanding to materials. They work more in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, the efficiency is low - 40%.
• The chamber-channel Swedish brick oven for the home is more efficient than the “Dutch”, its efficiency is up to 60%, it also takes up a little space, but is somewhat more difficult to implement. In addition, building materials should be selected very carefully.
• Russian stoves are the most efficient, their efficiency reaches 75%, but laying the stove is extremely difficult, it will not work without an experienced specialist.
• A heating and cooking stove with a built-in water heat exchanger is the simplest version of a heater. Its construction will take the least materials, and the simplicity of the design allows even a beginner to do all the work with their own hands, only a serious and scrupulous approach is needed.

Advice. If you have completely no experience in masonry work, then for self-construction it is better to choose a "Dutch" or a hob, the construction of stoves - "Swede" is somewhat more complicated and requires experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, it is not recommended to take it on yourself.

Next, you should understand where and how much space you are ready to allocate for construction, as well as the number of rooms heated by the stove. If the house is small, then the heat source can be placed in the wall between the rooms, so that each one warms up from the back or side wall of the brick oven. The figure shows examples of the placement of various heaters inside the building.

The first diagram on the left shows the placement of a stove for a brick house with a stove bench in the bedroom and heating of other adjacent rooms: living room, hallway and bathroom. The second diagram shows where you can put a heating and cooking stove with hot water for hot water. Between the two bedrooms it is planned to build a "Dutch" type heater with the output of the loading chamber to the living room. The third diagram shows an example country house, where the same stove heats the kitchen and bathroom, and there is a fireplace in the living room.

The principle by which the placement and construction of the furnace takes place is simple: direct heating from its walls should capture as much as possible large quantity rooms, and when this does not work out, it is better to use furnace schemes with a built-in hot water coil. In this case, the rest of the rooms will be heated by heating radiators.

masonry brick

In order for a do-it-yourself brick oven to work efficiently and durable, it is necessary to choose the appropriate building materials for its construction, in particular brick. Not only the strength and durability of the structure depends on this choice, but also its thermophysical properties that provide comfort in your home.

It is especially important to choose the right quality materials if you are planning to fold the Swede oven. For the "Dutch", the requirements for the quality of bricks and masonry mortar are not so high.

Previously, brick ovens were entirely made of red clay bricks, but now they are used in 2 types:

• red ceramic brand 150;
• refractory fireclay.

In the past, the sizes of stove bricks and ordinary building bricks were different. If the dimensions of the building single are 250 x 125 x 65 mm, then the stove stone was 230 x 114 x 40 mm or 230 x 114 x 65 mm. In our time, for convenience, the dimensions have been unified, so the selection is reduced to assessing the quality of the material. Here are some recommendations for acquiring the material from which brick heating stoves are laid:

• Stones should be purchased in the same size.
• You can not use a hollow brick, and even more so silicate. Only a full-bodied ceramic stone is needed.
• For facing masonry, it is better to take stones with a decorative texture, if it is not planned to finish the walls with additional tiles or other facing material.
• In the combustion chamber, the brickwork must be refractory, made of fireclay stone.

Work instructions

After the scheme of the heating furnace is selected, a foundation device is required for it. The exception is small "Dutch" and heating and cooking stoves, which do not exert a large load on the floors. The latter can be erected directly from the cement floor screed, having completed all the measures for thermal and waterproofing, discussed below.

In other cases, the heating furnace should rest on a foundation, preferably a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation. Its dimensions make it 50 mm larger than the dimensions of the building itself, the thickness of the plate is 100-150 mm, depending on the load. The foundation is performed separately, not in contact with the base of the building.

Before making a brick oven, the foundation slab must stand for at least 2 weeks, after which waterproofing is laid on top of it (roofing material in 2-3 layers), followed by sheets of asbestos or basalt cardboard for thermal insulation. Then a sheet of roofing steel and a felt litter are laid, from which the laying of the stove begins. The litter must first be wetted, and after laying, allow it to dry to the metal. Now you can proceed directly to the construction of the walls.

First of all, you should figure out where to start laying. For this, there are special schemes, they reflect in detail each row of stones, starting from the base and ending with the chimney. When you have chosen a certain type of heat source and found or purchased project documentation for its construction, then it necessarily shows the ordinal laying of furnaces of this type. Below, as an example, is the order of a small "Dutch" with a size of 520 x 520 mm.

Next, you need to prepare a mortar for laying stoves from white or yellowish clay with the addition quartz sand in a ratio of 1: 1. It is not recommended to use water with a high content of calcium and magnesium salts (hard water). Before cooking, the clay is soaked in water and left for a day, after which it is passed through a sieve with a cell of 3 x 3 mm. This process is carried out by wiping, since a mixture of clay and water cannot otherwise be passed through a sieve. Then sand is added and kneading is done with a gradual addition of water. The final solution in consistency should resemble thick sour cream.

The sides of the masonry stone have their own names, they determine the type of masonry. The traditional laying of brick ovens is spoon and bonder. This means that from the front side of the wall we can see the sides of the stone with the corresponding names. Bed laying is extremely rare, and for the construction of stoves it is not allowed at all. The wall is built with dressing, that is, the vertical seams between the stones should not match.

The process starts from the first row and on, constantly referring to the diagram, which shows the ordinal masonry. In this work, there is no need to rush, the emphasis should be on quality. It is better for a beginner to first lay each row dry, without mortar, based on the drawings. After making sure that the laying is correct, apply mortar to the bricks and lay them finally.

Remove excess clay, achieving a joint thickness of not more than 3 mm and not less than 2 mm. In some places, it is possible to make thickening of the seam up to 5 mm. The stone must be put immediately in place, moving and tapping is not allowed. Excess clay mixture removed from the stones cannot be used again.

Additional instructions for masonry to be followed, for convenience, are given in the form of a short list:

• Each stone is placed, resting it on 2 others.
• The first and last rows are bonded.
• To avoid delamination, vertical seams are filled with mortar.
• The bricks of each subsequent row must overlap the stones of the previous one by at least ¼ of the length.
• Coincidence of bonder and spoon rows is not allowed.
• The hemmed sides of the stones are placed inside, and not outside the walls.

To lay out a brick oven yourself, it will take a lot of personal time and patience. There are no irresponsible nodes or parts here, each brick matters. If you approach the issue carefully and responsibly, the result will be healthy warmth and comfort in your home.

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that simple stove from brick, even made by your own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick ovens and share the secrets of the oven craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick oven is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish interior element.

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick emits water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when it cools. The stove, as it were, “breathes”, due to which the optimum humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° C, while when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 ° C. In addition, being made of clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heater, you can not worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of arranging the furnace and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary furnace of this type has:

• foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a furnace that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for the lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which facilitates the cleaning of the furnace;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and emits exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Construction of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging extra bed recreation. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to a visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

• rapid heating of the surface;
• the possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is eliminated;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which appears during improper operation. Another - large dimensions and weight. That, perhaps, is all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, let's focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch stoves. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the "Dutch" rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly because of the low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows you to increase the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the "Dutch", the "Swedes" take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.

   

   The Swedish stove will please its owner with high efficiency and functionality.

3. have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the oven. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   The Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.

4. Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A feature of the "blacksmiths" is an extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heater. As for the minuses, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the latter disadvantage is compensated by the fact that much less brick is required for the construction of a “cap” than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and oven

Step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov stove with orders can be found in our next article:.

Having considered everything possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heater that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of building.

1. House intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then the best option than "Swede" or "cap" can not be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - a hob, a water circuit, an oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If the functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a “Dutch woman” that heats several adjacent rooms is a good option.
2. Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings involve irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. An ideal option are fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since they can be used to heat the room in as soon as possible. Such an advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the air temperature in the room drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. A stove in a country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or a unit with a firebox, a fireplace and a stove bench.
4. Bath heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bath is attached to the house, then instead of the tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heaters are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heater to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before choosing a working project of a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat transfer of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. This method uses an average thermal power taken from one square meter unit surface (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs during severe cooling - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of the furnace, only those of its surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" sections of the walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the flue, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, already these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel bookmark. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity based on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2-3 times greater than the obtained value, which will allow the furnace to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the furnace part, it must be taken into account that the maximum bookmark should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various quadratures.

Table of calculations of the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove will be fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood-burning stoves do not require a lot of traction, so best form the smoke channel will be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits flue, while all values ​​\u200b\u200bare adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since precise design requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet, there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will fall into the furnace through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or “whistling” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only to degrade performance, but also to more serious problems.

To calculate the amount required material it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be built up with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often, such events are carried out with the changed aerodynamics of the area. For example, after growing trees or erecting taller buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• definition optimal location for the installation of a heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Necessary materials and tools

Stovemaker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Panicle for mopping laid rows.
3. Corner, plumb and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scribbler.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Stitching.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Bulgarian (angle grinder) with a circle on the stone.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains almost unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Building mixture for laying furnaces. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. A set of furnace castings - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for fixing cast iron.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and corners for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant plates for protective thermal insulation.

Chamotte brick SHB No. 22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a major foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Rubble.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for the construction of formwork.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is located in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and the other faces to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits right choice places.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms country house

When installing a heater, one should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum allowable distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

• from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof, there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the furnace leave a gap of at least 100 mm;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the ceiling of the furnace. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common house foundation. At the same time, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, and even damage to the heater. If the stove will be built in a finished house, then the first thing they pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they start marking and building the foundation.

Given the weight of the stove, the foundation must be solid.

If wooden floors are equipped in the house, then they are cut out at the installation site of the furnace, departing from outer contour 10–15 cm. After that, they dig a pit, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle lane, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-cm layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully rammed. After that, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the crate boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with a plastic film. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which they use both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and brick fragments.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the foundation surface is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours have passed, necessary for the preliminary setting of the solution, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying the brick, the foundation must be waterproofed with a roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Solution preparation

Now, when you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves in the distribution network, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar on your own - this will additionally save. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the building.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls with a diameter of 5-6 cm are rolled out of the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower the spatula into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of the solution less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If it is required to increase its fat content, then the grinding method is used, which consists in settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly fold a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heater, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the oven, it is necessary to find the layout of the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can search turnkey solutions on the Web or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Schemes for ordering furnaces in the photo

Orders of the Swedish oven Orders of the "Dutch" Orders of the Russian oven
Orders of the heating and cooking furnace
Orders of the stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Stove orders with a hob and niches for drying

On the presented ordering scheme, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish stove. We recommend first laying out the structure dry, without the use of mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Further work is done in this order:

1. To the floor level, the bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar solid. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb. From the careful execution of the work depends on how smooth and stable the oven will be.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blowing chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent displacement and overturning of the door, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are brought out to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not attached in any other way than by very precise laying.

5. In the fifth row, a grate is installed. Correctly laying the cast iron will help the recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the furnace, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.

   

   Furnace door installation

7. Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected in the bricks with which the furnace door will overlap. Thanks to this, the design will look even and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   For an exact fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the outer walls with basalt cardboard or other refractory material.

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before overlapping the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning soot and soot, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The masonry of the 22nd row covers the door.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal gas duct is covered. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the oven niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row, fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this, both mineral heaters and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Here's a beauty you can fold with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Earlier, we considered how oven doors are mounted and fixed. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Mounting Features oven

If the design of the furnace provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes the largest possible surface area. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of the transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal gas duct, and the places of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

The hot water boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the gas flue or under the hood of non-revolving units. If it is planned to use the hob and the water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transverse metal pipes, which are welded into side tanks made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5-15 mm is left between the water-heating boiler and the furnace walls. Of course, it is necessary to foresee how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the furnace

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes; it is necessary to wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heater in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensate on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with firewood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is raked out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

Choosing the right fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood hardwood is considered - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, arguing that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “useful” tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and own health significant damage can be done.

It often causes difficulties to kindle the stove after a long cooling, for example, in a cottage or in a country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A proven method will help resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, lay it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater's performance.

You will also need a material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs brick ovens: .

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, it will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is within the power of not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners. Of course, one must be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heater will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know a lot of nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in homes. They acted as the main component of any country house. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system that runs on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on at full capacity on autumn days when the house gets cool. In this case, the stove will help to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and the house will become warm pretty quickly.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness because the oven is built to last for decades. It does not matter whether you are building a do-it-yourself heating stove or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about furnaces, we note that they are divided into structures for one- and two-storey houses. The main difference between them is the height. The building being erected can have a stove or be used only for heating. In the second case, the slab is absent in it as an integral element. The height of the do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the scheme. Next, we will take a closer look at how to build a do-it-yourself oven with a stove in a private house.

masonry materials

Calculation of materials is extremely important point when laying the oven with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop stove we are reviewing in this article usually measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its highest point to ceiling the first floor by 2.1 m.

Before starting work on the construction of the furnace with your own hands, need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities to be used in its construction. During the work it is necessary:

• red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pieces;
• silicate brick for the construction of the furnace 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
• sand - 80-100 buckets;
• clay -200 kg;
• corner 50 × 50 mm and 40x40 mm;
• steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
• metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
• roofing material -3 m;
• asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
• wall insulation material.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

• sand;
• cement;
• fittings;
• crushed stone;
• formwork boards.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a do-it-yourself stove, which can be used to heat your home and cook food, you will need to purchase cast-iron parts:

• grate -1 pc.;
• hob with two burners - 1 pc.;
• gate valves - 3 pcs.;
• two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower, 1 each;
• doors for cleaning - 5 pcs.

After the materials are prepared and the builder has the necessary tools at his disposal, you can proceed to the active phase of work.

Foundation

Accepting the fact that the structure being erected has a large mass, when building a foundation with your own hands perform its deepening not less than 80 cm. However, when conducting foundation work, one should take into account the climatic features of the area of ​​​​residence, as well as the depth of freezing. You can find out about this from local builders. Given all these points, a do-it-yourself oven built according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The foundation pit for the foundation being laid should have a square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands by resorting to hand tool- shovel.

After completion of excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at her bottom making a pillow of sand, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness a layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured with a layer of 15 cm, which, after laying it, must be compacted, and then the formwork should be installed. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

The foundation for the future furnace is poured in several steps. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. The top layer must be poured with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the solidification of the foundation should take a long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise the stove, built with your own hands, even according to the chosen scheme, won't last long. A crack in the foundation will lead to the need for repairs.

When the base of the furnace with the slab has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with waterproofing material- three layers of roofing material. The first do-it-yourself brick laying will be carried out further on it.

Compared to a fireplace, the design of a do-it-yourself stove with a stove is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of ​​​​the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After that, you can proceed to the laying of the first row.

If a vertical laying pattern is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size is 13 × 13 centimeters.

The ordinal scheme for laying out a heating and cooking stove assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, a blower chamber should be provided in its scheme. When the laying of the second row begins, the blower door is installed, which, before being installed in the opening intended for it, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

When installing the door, a wire is wound to it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the laying of the fourth row of the furnace, holes are indicated on it, designed for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth, the grate of the firebox is laid. When constructing the wall of the furnace and its threshold, it is permissible to use silicate bricks.

Installation of the furnace door is carried out on the sixth row. She, like the blower, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

From rows 6 to 10, special attention must be paid to the shape of the holes that will ensure the movement of air inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos gasket.

The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will fall on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

On the 19-20th rows of masonry, a drying chamber is formed. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.

Again metal corner laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The door for cleaning is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are being installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace, which goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

• door installation is carried out on the 2nd-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
• installation of a chimney valve is carried out on the 27th row;
• the part of the stove installed on the second floor should be in the form of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. Gradually it is replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is put on the upper part of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from entering it.

Schemes of furnaces

Furnaces that are built in private houses with their own hands can currently be divided into two groups:

• modern devices;
• obsolete structures.

Do-it-yourself buildings of an outdated type are not a problem to build. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often in houses they put stoves with a stove that differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your house or just a building for heating with your own hands, then you need to seriously approach the task of choosing them. Introduction to the benefits of stoves different designs will allow you to make the right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build a structure from scratch. It is enough to redo it and you will have at your disposal equipment for heating and cooking.

To avoid mistakes during the rework process, you should first familiarize yourself with the video and various instructions on how professionals do this work. Also during the work it is necessary to use drawings. Applying the knowledge gained, you can get a good result at the end of the work - you will have a stove with a stove, built by yourself.

One of the common types of ovens is a two-story one. If we talk about its device, then, we note that it consists of two structures- one is on top of the other. Each of the parts of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. During operation of the furnace, heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal / h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal / h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, two structures are separated from each other by means of brickwork with voids. This allows you to reduce the weight of the furnace and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower furnace, also acts as the basis for the first structure.

Both the upper furnace and the lower one have the same design. In the case under consideration, a channelless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool down, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the liner.

At the lower furnace, the chimney runs in the upper part, so the heating surface is smaller. The upper structure has a separate chimney. The process of its laying does not contain difficult moments. The scheme of gas movement is also simple. In the back wall there is a door through which the lower structure must be cleaned. Cleaning the top structure must be through the door. located in the side wall. The fuel for the double deck oven can be either hard coal or anthracite. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This overlapping option provides stability, and in addition makes the design of the furnace as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such a volume, errors should be excluded. Indeed, in the event of their occurrence, repair will be extremely difficult.

With great attention should be approached to the device of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case may experience heat leakage from the wall which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke dampers are closed.

Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel doesn't really matter either. For a country house, a do-it-yourself stove can be an ideal heating option.

An oven of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, then it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts, the firebox, has a great height in the design of this furnace. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is provided by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower vents. Then they rise to the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which has three U-shaped cavities in its composition.

The cavities are parallel to each other. Having got up, the gas will linger in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after its cooling, it will pass into the front plane along the lower part. The front plane is connected to the plug-in type chimney. From there, the gas will escape into the atmosphere.

The design of this furnace provides for three caps: the top and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be any. For laying out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

The stove in the house is a good help in creating a comfortable microclimate at minimal cost. She can act as the main home heating system or be used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You yourself will be able to build a stove in your house if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality performance of work will allow you to get a furnace that will give off heat well and will last for decades.

Since ancient times, it so happened that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, and provide hygiene, and put to bed. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house, not without reason in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who most of all needed comfort and warmth. Today, the functions of a traditional heater, Swedish or Dutch stove are reduced mainly to a heating and decorative function, which does not prevent them from being used for cooking fragrant and healthy meals from the arsenal of many world cuisines. The article will focus on brick ovens for the home.

Folding the oven is a whole science that has been known for more than one year of study. If there is no qualified stove-maker among your friends, and you really want to have a hearth in the house, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before you get started.

We decide on the design of a brick oven

Depending on what hopes real estate owners have with their home, it is worth considering the options that satisfy all desires. Do not forget about the dimensions of various furnaces and their weight. It is necessary to calculate not only your own forces and means, but also the strength of the foundation.

Russian stove

• Suitable for connoisseurs of tradition. This design performs the maximum number of functions, so it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally, it is placed in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can be placed in the center of the room.
• The lounger is provided for rest; Depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. A continuous air supply for better fuel combustion is provided by a blower. The hearth and the stump are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Cooked food left in this area is guaranteed to stay warm for a very long time. The undercoat and the underplate were used to store kitchen utensils, tongs, pokers. Pechurki are recesses of small diameter located along the side wall of the stove. They served to dry small things, for example, mittens covered with snow dried out very quickly in them.
• Those who wish to lay down a Russian stove in the house will have to provide for it a place of at least two meters in height, one and a half meters in width and two and a half in length. A design with such dimensions will easily provide uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a furnace also requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant volumes of the room or are not fans of the traditional color should pay attention to another version of the stove.

Brick oven photo

Swede

• A model that is more compact than a Russian stove, designed for space heating and cooking, is Swedish.
• She has the same height requirements - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat to cook food on two burners of a cast iron stove at the same time.
• There is also an oven, which the housewives will appreciate. The Swede has many modifications, they are named after the developers (a stove designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each one is slightly different in size, appearance, heat dissipation, so choosing the right option is not difficult.

Brick oven video

Dutch

• It will serve only for heating the house. It, contrary to its name, has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove-makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer with compact dimensions. If there are no severe frosts outside the window, then the Dutch woman is able to keep warm for a day. Design features include a winding chimney and a low (compared to a Russian stove) located firebox. Thanks to this, the Dutchwoman warms up evenly from the bottom up.
• Its walls are thin - one, less often two bricks, the base in the form of a circle or rectangle fits on an area of ​​1 m². To heat a medium sized room country house, this is more than enough. And in terms of weight, it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of details, but this only plays into the hands of the issue of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of the Dutch stove is very attractive, to improve appearance it is often tiled.

Preparatory stage before making a brick oven

At the preparation stage, you need to attend to the search for a project brick wall suitable in all respects, consider its location, take into account all fire safety requirements. You will need to pick up tools, purchase the right material and invite assistants.

The draft scheme can be ordered from specialized agencies or trusted resources on the Web. For those who wish, detailed courses are even filmed on video.

Of the tools you will need:

• a mesh (sieve) for sifting sand, with a mesh size not exceeding 2 mm;
• shovel;
• grinder (you have to cut a brick);
• a pickaxe hammer will help chop a solid brick into small pieces and trim them to the desired shape and size;
• stitching for seams. This is a special tool that allows you to give the seams between the bricks a neat and aesthetic look. If the stove is planned to be subsequently plastered or covered with decorative tiles, then this device will not have to be used. And when the master wants to leave the brickwork in its original form, the jointing will ensure the same density and width of the seams;
• trowel (trowel) for applying the solution;

• nozzle-mixer on the perforator. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and such a mass can be evenly mixed only using a power tool;
• tape measure is better to take with a margin of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
• a plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
• a rule is needed to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat wooden lath more than a meter long is also suitable;
• the building level checks whether the masonry has “fallen” relative to the horizontal;
• the work will be “dirty”, so cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops should be kept ready. It is better to clean the solution before it dries.

The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the chosen furnace configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: a cast-iron stove, the number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main items of expenditure.

• Sand must fall under the following characteristics: clean, fine, uniform. This result can be achieved by sifting.
• Clay is skinny, normal and oily. The proportions of the preparation of the working solution depend on its variety. Many experts advise choosing the "golden mean", that is, clay of a normal degree of fat content.

Brick is produced in four main types.

• Ceramic. This is a classic among materials for housing construction. Lay the foundation, build bearing wall, build Vacation home- all this can be done from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
• silicate brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
• Refractory brick type used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures is the norm. Metallurgists and glassblowers, for example, work with furnaces built from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extreme high temperatures make refractory (fireclay) bricks the best for building a furnace. It is divided into four types:
  • carbon steel is rarely found in free sale, it is intended for the use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
  • lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
  • the quartz look, for all its fire resistance, is very unstable to the effects of alkalis or iron oxide. But for walls and vaults of furnaces it can be used;
  • alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating over 1300 ° C.

Refractory bricks are more expensive than conventional ones. Russian manufacturers offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.

Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for decoration. To improve the appearance of the furnace, it is used quite often. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.

Foundation for the installation of a brick oven

• The furnace foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is explained by the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will arise in any case, and the loads on both bases and temperature effects will be different.

• The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing is a mandatory requirement for the base of the furnace.

How to lay a Russian brick oven

• What else needs to be considered before starting work? A classic Russian stove will require about 1,700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (hole dimensions 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of mortar.
• As for the layer of the applied mixture, in this case the rule is more - it means better, it does not work. A masonry seam of moderate thickness will help the bricks to grasp faster and stronger.
• According to the classical canons of laying out the furnace, the vault of the furnace should go at an angle relative to the mouth. A protrusion in the form of a nut cuts off sparks from the crucible on the pipes and traps soot.

• Orders have been developed to help the master. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of a particular row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the installation locations of cast iron and other parts of the stove.

Drawing of a brick oven

• The base of the furnace must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing material is quite suitable. The first row will be laid out directly on it. Burnt (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, as they are not afraid of moisture.
• In order for the dressing of the seams in the initial and subsequent rows to be of high quality, in the corners starting row lay three bricks ¾ in size. That is, a triangle is formed from these incomplete bricks: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be made on a bevel to ensure maximum fit.
• Second row serves as the initial for laying out the guard.
• Since masonry involves the installation of bricks apart, in order to avoid the coincidence of the seams, third row will require the presence of four bricks in the corners with dimensions of ¾.
• When laying fourth row you need to take whole bricks. A pair of bricks that are stacked opposite each other, forming the entrance to the under-furnace, should have beveled corners. Thus, support for the arch will be obtained. In order for the stove to turn out to be even, a wooden formwork is built in its opening.

• When the arch is completed, you can return to laying fifth row. Three ¾ bricks are placed in the corners. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) must be beaten off with a hammer with a pick so that they form a support for the vaults of the furnace.

• Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork is designed in such a way that, after completion of work, it can be easily removed through the entrance to the underfurnace. If you can't give bricks desired shape, you should use the usual ones, and fill the voids with mortar and pieces of broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying a whole brick with neatly made bevels.
• Seventh row in terms of execution technique it resembles the first one, for the eighth solid brick is used. The eighth row involves arranging a platform for a cold stove.
• Ninth row- as the first, connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed between the walls.
• Eleventh row must completely cover the sandy backfill and the stove itself.
• Thirteenth row involves the start of work on laying the walls of the hearth and furnace. A strip of metal passes between them, which in its shape exactly repeats the furnace mouth. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should be with holes through which steel wire is passed.
• All other rows are performed in order to build up the walls of the firebox and hearth up to up to the seventeenth row. It requires that pre-chip and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces become a support for the vault of the furnace. The crucible-furnace itself is laid out similarly to a guardianship.
• The completed arch of the crucible is an occasion to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of heels - supports is fixed on the side of the hearth window. The arch, of which they are the beginning, will be small. When laying out the next rows, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, gravel and broken glass.
• twenty first row serves as a cover for the backfill and the crucible, and twenty second forms an additional layer.
• twenty third row should strengthen the shield walls and the retube. In the last element, a stuffing box is fastened, it is needed to connect a samovar pipe to it, if it is planned to heat it indoors. When the subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the half-door of the view.
• Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter be formed next to one of the walls (an additional row of three bricks). The next row can completely block the overtube. The only caveat is that on the right side it is supposed to leave a hole in it, blocked by a valve.
• From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Almost at the very ceiling, cutting is carried out in order to let the bricks in a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The last value is that the groove increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating the ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
• After the masonry dries, they proceed to the final finishing of the brick oven, make a trial heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.

Do-it-yourself Dutch brick oven

The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but it has its own nuances. The classic version looks like this:

• the design has rectangular shape(even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
• there is no grate;
• structural elements:
• a firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the furnace;
• a chimney consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel passage of gases through the system: three lowering and three lifting channels;
• cleaning door;
• blew.

You will need to purchase:

• refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
• well bending wire;
• a piece of roofing material for waterproofing;
• crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
• masonry glue;
• firebox door, blower, valve;
• a standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.

Scheme of a Dutch brick oven

Stages of work

When the foundation for the stove dries out, it is covered with roofing material, and that, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying stoves, two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Let the solution dry.

• First row spread over a layer of sand moistened with water. A sand cushion is poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Without forgetting the rules of dressing, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
• In the third row begin to form an ash chamber, the door is installed later.

• Fourth row perform in order to build up an array of the furnace, the door is immediately installed. To fix it in the masonry, a metal wire is used. If the first three rows of bricks were laid out flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on edge until the firebox door is closed.
• The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pan door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are again laid flat. Eighth row- Height increase.
• Some homeowners equip a hob in a Dutch stove. If it is provided for by the project, then ninth and tenth row are shifting back. At the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter, on which a cooking surface is installed. The tenth row involves the beginning of laying the foundation of the chimney. To facilitate the design, a metal chimney is sometimes mounted.
• IN eleventh row a valve is being installed (using an asbestos cord), and the masonry is made in a quarter of a brick.
• IN fourteenth row the firebox is covered from above, a hole is formed along the back wall for the exit of excess smoke. Similar work is done in the next row.
• IN two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleaning door. You can simply leave a brick in its place without bonding it with mortar.
• Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, they install the finished pipe or continue to form it through masonry.
• Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the mortar, it will grab better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.

• For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to drown the Dutch woman with those types of fuel that are characterized by rapid combustion (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The furnace does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally fly out into the chimney.
• Fuel, which forms a lot of ash during combustion, will also not contribute to heating the room, but it forms a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
• The best option is a fuel that can smolder for a long time.
• It is worth adding to the issue of fire safety that the Dutch oven cannot be heated too much. It will emit carbon monoxide when overheated. The degree of heating is checked by the usual touch of the palm to the masonry: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is about 50 ° C. This is the norm.
• For those who are laying stoves for the first time, it is worth doing a test laying in a “dry” way. That is, to perform all the work in stages, without fastening the bricks with mortar. So you can fill your hand and at the same time decide whether you need outside help.

Making a stove with your own hands is not the kind of activity that can be submitted the first time. A careful study of the schemes, trial masonry without the use of mortar, the advice of experienced craftsmen will make the task easier. Work and patience, according to the saying, greatly contribute to the positive outcome of any business.