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Cabinet for oven and hob - assembly steps the simplest design

March 27, 2018
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Today we will figure out how to assemble a reliable cabinet for the oven and hob. Work is within the power of almost any person, the main thing is to have at hand necessary materials and tool.

Stages of work

Let's figure out how to properly organize the workflow, for simplicity, we divide all activities into 3 stages:

• Preparation;
• Cabinet assembly;
• Cutting a hole in a table top.

Preparatory work

To get started, collect everything you need:

• Chipboard blanks for furniture, They are made in accordance with the rest of the elements of the kitchen set. The standard width of the cabinet is 600 mm, the depth is from 400 to 600 mm, the 600 mm option is most often used, most ovens fit under it;
• Furniture supports. Cheapest fit plastic elements, they are easy to use and easy to attach;

• Fasteners for construction. We will tighten the locker with euro screws, which are also called confirmations. Guides for drawer screwed with self-tapping screws 3.5x16 mm;
• Drawer guides. It is better to purchase a ball version, it is much more reliable and durable than standard roller elements.

From the tool you need the following:

• screwdriver. In the kit, stock up on equipment: nozzles for self-tapping screws and euro screws, drills of different diameters;

Additionally, purchase a special drill for confirmations, it makes a hole and at the same time selects a pot under the head of the fastener.

• Electric jigsaw. Necessary for drilling an opening in the countertop under the hob;
• Measuring fixtures, you can do with a tape measure and a pencil.

Assembling the cabinet under the oven

Let's figure out how to assemble a cabinet under the oven. Regardless of the size of the structure, it is always assembled in the same way:

Illustration	Description
	Side walls being prepared. It is best to order them ready-made, but you can cut the material yourself, for this you use a power saw or a jigsaw.
	Sidewalls are being prepared: The line of attachment of the guide is drawn, the height of its location depends on the height of the drawer; Holes are drilled along the location of the partition on which the oven will stand. It is located above the drawer.
	Exposed guide, it aligns with the outer end of the structure and the previously drawn line.
	The guide is fixed. For this, self-tapping screws are used, which are located in holes specially designed for this. There must be at least four fasteners per rail. Another guide is similarly attached to the second wall.
	The bottom of the cabinet is being prepared. 4 holes are drilled in it for confirmations, the indent from the front and back sides is 50-70 mm, the indent from the edge to the middle is 9 mm, since the thickness of the plate is 18 mm. If the thickness of the chipboard is 20 mm or more, then the indentation is made by half the thickness of the plate.
	Legs attached to the bottom. Points are marked with an indent of 5 cm from the edges, and supports are attached there. They are screwed on self-tapping screws 3.5x16 mm.
	The bottom is placed on the edge, combined with it side pedestals. Holes are pre-drilled in it using a confirmatory drill.
	Side walls screw on. To do this, euro screws are inserted into the holes and tightened with a screwdriver so that the cap is flush with the surface.
	A partition is inserted on which the oven will stand. It is screwed on with confirmations from the sides.
	Cabinet is almost ready. It remains to assemble the box according to the size of the opening and attach the mating parts of the guides to it.
	The finished box is inserted into the opening. The cabinet is ready, you can proceed to the preparation of the countertop.

Preparing the worktop for the hob

The tabletop can be either separate or integral for the entire working area. A cabinet is placed, a tabletop is fixed on it and the following work is carried out:

Illustration	Description
	The center of the panel is marked. The line is drawn strictly perpendicular to the wall. For this marking, the outer part is pre-measured hob.

Built-in ovens are very convenient and functional. Built-in oven cabinet allows you to beat any kitchen room even a very small one. The option when the oven is placed directly under the hob does not suit everyone. As for independent models, they can be placed in any place convenient for you and at an ergonomically optimal height. All the features of the installation of such furniture and equipment will be considered in this article.

Module classification

There are 2 types of modules for the oven:

• The oven, which is located directly under the hob.
• Oven placed in a pencil case.

The drawer can be located at the top or bottom of the oven. Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Cupboard under hob

If the cabinet is under the hob, then:

• The cooking area is compactly combined. This option is especially relevant to save space in the kitchen.
• Another positive point is that this is a universal option, suitable for women of any height.

• Poor ergonomics. You have to work in a bent position. Cooking and cleaning the oven are bound to be connected with the fact that you constantly have to “bow”. If a woman has back problems, then she is unlikely to spoil her family with baked dishes often.
• Cooling ventilation is located at the bottom or top of the structure. If the drawer is under the hob, the system is more likely to block.

Construction in a box

The most ergonomic and comfortable option is when the oven is at chest level:

• The hostess does not have to bend down, she is happy to cook delicious and healthy dishes.
• Cleaning the oven is also not associated with great inconvenience.

The only drawback of this placement of the oven is the inconvenience for undersized women. However, this minus is not critical. The problem can be easily eliminated if you make an oven cabinet with your own hands or order it from a specialized company for an individual project.

Important! Please note that installing the oven in a pencil case and strengthening the carrier horizon on which it is located go side by side. To do this, just screw 2 additional strips down from the horizon. This makes it possible to avoid collapse of the structure.

Product dimensions:

• In the west, equipment with a width of 900-1200 mm is considered standard. This corresponds to the concept of comfort in the US and Europe.
• In domestic kitchen sets, the width of the bedside table suitable for embedding is 600 mm. Therefore, the appropriate technique must be chosen.

Important! These requirements, for example, are best met by products from IKEA. Choose an oven so that it is smaller than the bedside table in width.

• There are also very tiny models with a width of 450 and a height of 600 mm. But this is not mass production, rather, a trial version.

Important! For most super-compact models, with a width of 450 mm, the height remains 850 mm, that is, standard. The depth of most of the products is 500-550 mm.

How to make a nightstand yourself?

To get started, stock up on materials and the necessary minimum of tools:

• Chipboard or plywood with a sheet thickness of 1.6-1.8 cm.
• Countertop (you can use the same materials, but with a sheet thickness of 2.8 mm).
• Legs.
• Fasteners - dowels, confirmations and self-tapping screws.
• Guides.
• Screwdriver.
• Drill.
• Joiner's glue.

Important! The instructions for the technique contain information not only on dimensions, but also on the requirements for the installation niche. If you are going to purchase or make your own cabinet, be sure to consider this.

The dimensions of the furniture that serves as an installation niche are the dimensions of the oven plus 1-2 cm of margin in size plus the thickness of the material. In fact, this is a box with 3 horizontal slats - one at the top and three at the bottom.

Make all necessary calculations. Then cut out the following details from the prepared material:

• Side parts (niche height + leg height + tabletop thickness) - 2 pcs.
• Horizon - exactly with measurements in depth and width - 2 pcs.
• Body plank. Its length corresponds to the width of the niche. The width of the body strip is up to 100 mm.

Important! You can cut sheets of MDF and chipboard in a professional workshop. At the same time, rational consumption of material, accuracy and speed of execution are guaranteed. In addition, edging is carried out in the workshop with a waterproof melamine film.

Built-in oven cabinet: assembly

Collect the finished product for dowels or confirmations. If fastening on dowels, then it is duplicated with furniture glue. The order of assembly is this.

IN modern kitchens more and more often you can see built-in appliances. And this is not surprising. Cookers and refrigerators integrated into the kitchen set, washing machines and dishwashers, microwave and UHF ovens allow you to save the work surface, more functionally dispose of the interior of the cabinets. And, of course, they give a more holistic and harmonious look to the overall design of the kitchen. How to build an oven with your own hands? It’s worth starting with the correct layout of the kitchen set.

With a competent approach to the development of a kitchen design project, the location of a free-standing stove or a duet of “oven + hob” is inextricably linked with the supply of the hood to the ventilation shaft. Therefore, even at the stage of the beginning of the repair, you can clearly determine the location of the oven. And, accordingly, provide sockets for its connection.

However, not everything is clear here. It is impossible to place the socket strictly behind the oven. When the fork is included in it, a “dead” zone is formed, which will not allow the oven to move to the desired depth.

The option of placing the outlet below the level of the oven is also not very successful. It is much more convenient to first turn off the equipment, and only then remove it from the kitchen cabinet. And not vice versa - when there is a need to disconnect from the network, start to put forward a rather heavy unit.

Most optimal solution- move the socket below the level of the countertop into a nearby cabinet-cabinet. Ideally, if there are drawers in the adjacent table-cabinet near the oven. Then in the cabinet itself you can not install the back wall at all. It is enough to take out the desired box - and access to the outlet is open.

It is also a good idea to screw the overhead outlet to the side of the cabinet with hinged doors. It will not interfere with the internal filling of the cabinet, and it is quite convenient to use it.

The main thing is that this cabinet does not turn out to be a table under the sink. Such a close proximity to water, sewage drain is undesirable.

Drawings how to build in an oven with your own hands

This task is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. To facilitate installation, household appliances are available in certain standard dimensions. You can always change from one built-in oven to another without changing kitchen furniture.

The standards here are simple: any electric or gas oven is built into a 600x600 mm niche. Moreover, the width of the niche is 600 mm, taking into account the thickness of the side walls of the module for the oven (according to the requirements of most models, the final size of the opening should be at least 560 mm).

The depth of the oven is designed to fit under a worktop with a standard width of 600 mm. That is, the body to the front overhang should be 550-560 mm. Embedding an oven with your own hands under a narrowed countertop will not work. But under the extended one, in various design variations, it’s quite.

Nuances may arise in specific non-standard cases. Therefore, carefully study the instructions at the stage of purchase. household appliances. For some ovens, it is required to provide space for ventilation in the design of the box.

Or even a special cutout for air circulation in the bottom of the cabinet or countertop.

A typical design of a cabinet for an oven is shown in the drawing.

If the table-cabinet is “clamped” between adjacent modules, then there is no need for an upper tightening bar. Many furniture makers do not install it at all.

If the height of the kitchen set is standard (840-850 mm for different thicknesses of the countertop), then the height of the sidewall of the oven cabinet itself will be 720 mm. By simple calculations (720-600) we get a space of 120 mm along the bottom of the installation. More precisely, the free space will be (120-32) only 88 mm, minus the thickness of the bottom and shelf.

A drawer with a box 50-60 mm high is usually built into this space. If you increase the height of the bottom row of the kitchen to match your height (you can read about it), then the drawer will be deeper and more functional.

Actually, according to the same principle, the cabinet “turns” into a cabinet for a built-in oven. We just increase the space of the bottom drawer in height.

But there is one important nuance. The depth of the sidewalls of the cabinet increased in height must also be increased so that the gap between the wall and the cabinet body is not visible.

And this means that the air circulation near the do-it-yourself oven built in this way will be disrupted. Not in vain, after all, a separate drawing is attached to the instructions for ovens for installation in a pencil case. In which you can see that you need to leave the drank under the air circulation.

Therefore, a cutout should be provided in the countertop covering such a low cabinet for a built-in oven with your own hands. It can be covered with a ventilation grill.

Do-it-yourself oven cabinet, drawings and calculations

Take for example the calculation of a cabinet for a built-in oven standard sizes. Her drawing will look like this.

With a tabletop width of 600 mm, taking into account the overhang in front and behind, the depth of the case will vary between 460-500 mm.

If it is decided to put the tightening bar in the center of the module, then it should be lowered by about 10 mm relative to the sidewalls. Otherwise, it will interfere with inserting the hob into the countertop above the oven with your own hands.

If the body of the pedestal is made of chipboard 16 mm thick, then the calculation of the details will look like this.

Sometimes the drawer in the design of the box under the oven is abandoned altogether. It is absolutely not needed as a storage place, if the kitchen is large and there are enough drawers and shelves in it for the hostess. Then a “trick” (a rigidly fixed facade) is placed on the opening under the oven.

Built-in oven - the model is very convenient. Not everyone is satisfied with the option when the oven is located under the hob: especially when both units need to be turned on at the same time. An independent model can be placed anywhere and at any height.

Product dimensions

Started production of ovens foreign companies. This significantly affected the dimensions of the product.

The standard width of the models is 90–120 cm. This corresponds to the European idea of ​​​​comfort.

• However, the standards of Russian kitchen sets are completely different. Here, the cabinet for the oven and the hob has a width of 60 cm. In this case, the manufacturers of the devices gave in and began to produce models with the appropriate width. For example, well-known manufacturer goods for the house Ikea.

In order to ensure ease of installation, the width of the oven should be reduced by 1–2 cm.

• Today you can also find very miniature built-in models - with a width of 45 cm and a height of 60 cm. However, these are rather test samples. As a rule, even with a width of 45 cm, the height remains standard - 85 cm.
• The depth in most products is 50–55 cm.

A cabinet for a built-in oven is usually equipped with a drawer for storing baking sheets, dishes and other things.

Materials and tools

Do-it-yourself cabinet under the oven is a very real task. There are no particular difficulties here. To make it you will need the following:

• plywood or chipboard 16–18 mm thick;
• worktop 28 mm thick or more;
• legs;
• furniture confirmations, dowels and self-tapping screws;
• guides;
• electric drill;
• wood glue.

Kitchen Cabinet Calculations

As a rule, the instructions for the oven contain data not only on the dimensions of the model itself, but also on the requirements for the installation niche. This should be used in calculations.

The cabinet for the oven has dimensions equal to the parameters of the installation niche plus the thickness of the material used. In fact, it is a box with a double bottom - horizons 1 and 2 and a horizontal crossbar at the top - a hull bar. The latter is required for the normal attachment of the hob to the countertop. In addition, this part maintains the distance between the sidewalls, which is also important.

First you need to make calculations, then the following parts are cut out of chipboard or MDF sheets:

• sidewalls - the sum of the height of the niche, the thickness of the table top and the height of the legs - 2 pcs;
• horizon - that is, the bottom, dimensions are exactly equal to the parameters of the installation niche - depth and width - 2 pcs;
• body strip - its length is equal to the width of the niche, and its own width does not exceed 100 mm.

The back wall of the drawer, as a rule, is not included in the detailing: it is made from scraps of fiberboard. Usually its height does not exceed 100 mm.

The details of the drawer are calculated by the residual method. It's easy to do this:

• the height of the facade is equal to the difference between the height of the kitchen cabinet, the height of the legs and the thickness of the first horizon. The facade does not cover it due to the peculiarities of the installation of the oven. Width corresponds to 60 cm minus 3 mm. As a rule, there is no handle here: to make it more convenient to use, a notch is made on the second horizon;
• side parts are equal in length to the depth of the pedestal minus gaps, and in height - to the distance between two horizons minus gaps;
• the length of the rear wall takes into account the thickness of both sidewalls and the thickness of the guides.

Chipboard or MDF can be cut to size in the workshop: on professional equipment, the pattern will take much less time, and accuracy is guaranteed. In addition, in most cases, the details are edged here - they close the ends with a melamine strip. Otherwise, the operation will have to be done by hand.

Product assembly

The kitchen cabinet for the oven and hob is assembled on confirmations or dowels. The fastening of the latter is duplicated with glue. Holes for them are pre-drilled.

Self-tapping screws are allowed.

1. First you need to assemble the box itself - sidewalls and horizontals.
2. Then fix the body strip, lowering it 10 mm from the edge of the sidewall.
3. To the bottom of the product you need to attach the legs with self-tapping screws.
4. If it is decided to make a drawer, then, before installing the first horizon, guides are attached to the walls - articulated or telescopic.
5. Install the back wall.
6. Assemble the product and install on the guides.

Do-it-yourself cabinet for the oven is ready. In the photo you can see a product that is in no way inferior even to well-known brands, like Ikea.

Currently, the vast majority of kitchen sets are designed with, therefore, understanding the design of such modules is very important.

The box we are considering has two fixed sizes:

• This is its width, which is equal to 600mm
• And, which is also equal to 600mm (sometimes, an opening is designed with a height of 595mm).

From the total height of the box, only the size of the lower drawer with a facade depends.

The dimensions of the niche for the installation of the equipment we are considering can always be found in the instructions for it.

Let's calculate the details of the module:

Horizon - 600 by 460 (mm) - 1 pc.

Side - 870-28-100-16 \u003d 726 (mm), where 28mm is the thickness of the tabletop, 100mm is the distance from the box to the floor (height of the supports), 16mm is the thickness of the lower horizon.

• Side - 726 by 460 - 2 pcs.
• Horizon 2 - 600-32=568 (mm), where 32mm is the thickness of the two sides of the box.
• Horizon 2 - 568 by 460 - 1 pc.
• Body bar - 568 to 100 - 1 pc.

A few words should also be said about the hull bar.

In this case, it is designed alone, moreover, it is located 10mm below the upper edge of the side ().

This is done so that when using a 28mm thick tabletop, it is normally attached to the tabletop and does not rest against the bar itself (sometimes the dimensions of this technique can go beyond the dimensions of the tabletop in height).

By the way, I often met training materials on the net, where in the box we are considering, the hull bar is not designed at all.

I think this approach is not correct, since this bar maintains the distance between the sides of the module, and in any case it is necessary.

Calculate the facade for the drawer below

The height dimension it overlaps is:

870-28-100-600=142 (mm), where 100mm is the height of adjustable supports, 600mm is the inner opening of the box.

You also need to know that the depth of the oven is such that with a rear “overlap” of the countertop on the box of 100 mm (namely, this (and more) size should be given for kitchens that include such modules), in the projection of the oven (on the wall ) there should be nothing (sockets, pipes, etc.), since the cabinet may simply not “become” into the box.

The photo shows an option when there are sockets on the part of the wall visible through the opening, which then had to be removed. Therefore, these problems need to be addressed at the design stage of the kitchen, and not when it is almost installed. Also, you need to consider the evenness of the floors. If they are not even, then the lower modules will be adjusted, and accordingly, the position of the projection of the opening of our box on the wall will change.

All this must be taken into account.

Similar modules can also be designed in such a way that it is located not from below, but from above, but we will talk about that.

That's all.

See you in the next articles.