How to lay laminate with different types of locks. How to make a joint between laminate and laminate - what to use How to connect laminate different locks

What is the difference good repair from bad? Thoughtfulness of details. Very good and expensive material can be spoiled by little things. In the case of laminate, this is 100% true. Even such a nuance as a seam in the coating between two rooms, the junction of two laminates that are different in height or in the way of laying. All this requires a thoughtful approach. How to join a laminate, what methods and materials to use and we'll talk further.

The laminate is laid using floating floor technology. To ensure that it does not rise with changes in temperature or humidity, the coating should not have hard fastening points. To compensate for changes in size, a gap of about 1 cm is left around the perimeter of the rooms to the walls. Subsequently, it is closed with a plinth. Skirting boards are attached to the wall, not to the floor.

Even if the same type of laminate is laid in the rooms, with large areas it is better to doorway make a seam. It is needed all for the same purposes: so that when the dimensions of the planks increase, the seams do not swell. The seam usually runs under the door. When it's closed, you can't see anything at all. Even when the doors are open, a properly selected docking profile or threshold does not attract attention.

How to connect laminate between rooms

Where to make a laminate joint between rooms? It is most logical to connect the laminate to the laminate so that the seam is under the door leaf. Then at closed door joints are not visible. If several doors enter the room, it is desirable to arrange all connections in the same way.

Between the rooms, the laminate is connected using:

connecting profiles;
thresholds;
cork compensator.

The connecting profile and the nut are not the same thing. These are two different types of connectors. The thresholds can be used with any floor covering, but they differ in appearance, as they are usually made of a different material. The connecting profiles are produced by the same companies that make the laminate. They are covered with the same film that is used for laminating the plates. This allows you to choose a connecting strip for a laminate with an exact match in color and pattern (if you're lucky).

Connection profiles

How to join a laminate so that the seam is minimally noticeable? Using laminated joint profiles. They are made of aluminum alloy or MDF, covered with a film that covers the laminate. Connecting profiles for laminate consist of a guide and a decorative strip. The guide can be plastic or metal. It is attached to the floor with glue (plastic) or dowels (metal).

The decorative strip can be metal or MDF. In any case, the material is laminated with a film. This type of molding is produced by the same companies that make laminate. Colors and textures match the laminate. If your company does not produce such strips, you will have to take a sample and try to find it from other manufacturers.

According to the shape of the top bar, the connectors can be straight (in the photo above in the center) or rounded (in the photo on the left). Straight lines are less noticeable, but materials of the same thickness should be joined. Rounded ones can be set at a slight angle, which makes it possible to join laminate of different thicknesses.

Straight butt profiles for joining laminate flooring come in one thickness. They are called direct or connecting. There are options for coatings of different thicknesses, they are called "transitional". They have different shelf heights. It is selected according to the thickness of the coating used.

The width of the bar can also be different. The wider it is, the greater the compensation gap can be made. The minimum width of the bar is 22 mm, the maximum is 44 mm. Perhaps there are more or less, but they are very rare.

How to join laminate with sills

Connection pads floor coverings- This is a bar made of wear-resistant material. What distinguishes them from connecting profiles is that it is only a bar. It just closes the gap at the top.

Make sills from the following materials:

Metals and their alloys. Most often this aluminum alloys and brass. Coloring usually imitates one of the metals - brass, bronze, aluminum, etc. They can be shiny, matte, with a satin finish (semi-gloss), etc. There are options laminated with wood-like film, but they must be selected according to the color of the coating.
Made of wear-resistant plastic. There are many planks in brown tones, there are colored ones, with imitation of wood.
Wooden. Sold unpainted, you can try to choose the color yourself.

In order for the sills to look normal and not “scratch” the eyes, they are selected to match one of the mating coatings. Before joining the laminate, take samples of your coatings and go in search of the sills. Neither by eye nor by photo you will understand which of the options will be optimal. Only by attaching to a specific material can you choose.

Without "trying on" you will not understand which one is better.

According to the type of fastening, the sills are hidden or open-mounted. Open-mounted - with through holes in the bar in which the fasteners are installed. Fasteners - self-tapping screws. It is desirable to select their color to match the color of the nut, and the shape of the cap should be conical and straight on top. If there is no fasteners in the kit, it is better to take a bar or a piece of it with a hole to the store with you. There you can "try on" different screws and choose the best option.

One of the sills is a gap-closing profile. And all

Flush-mounted thresholds are usually made of metal. More often made of aluminum and brass, you can find stainless steel (at the price of an airplane wing). It is better if the aluminum is anodized - it does not change color longer. Aluminum can be laminated with a woodgrain film, which increases the chances of making the joint less noticeable. Fasteners are included with the strap. It must have a certain shape of the cap - so that they go into the groove.

Cork expansion joints

If you do not like the sills, you can put a cork in the seam. There are special cork compensators. They are usually used when laying parquet. In width, they can be 7-12 mm, in height - 15, 18, 20 and 22 mm. Cork strips are painted and polished. Cork compensators are sold in pieces of 90 cm, 120 cm. You can also find strips 3 m long.

Cork compensators are laid when one of the coatings has already been laid, and the second will be mounted. This is convenient if the doors open onto the corridor, and two coverings from different laminates are connected, moreover, with different laying directions.

To install a cork compensator, you will need wood glue and silicone sealant (preferably transparent, it is almost imperceptible). We apply glue on the floor in a zigzag or two parallel strips, install a strip of cork and press it. We take silicone, bend the cork, coat the joint with the laminate, return the compensator to its place, press it.

When the second coating reaches the joint, the laminate cut must be smeared with silicone - this will protect against moisture and debris. Be sure to remove excess silicone immediately, otherwise they can then be torn off the cork only by damaging the surface. So, once again: we glue the bottom of the cork strip with universal glue, which glues wood and concrete (if you have concrete), and glue the sides with a sealant to the cuts of the flooring.

Installation of thresholds in the seam of the laminate

Read the installation instructions before making a joint between a laminate and a laminate threshold. It is usually included in the package. There may be some nuances, but in general, the order is the same. We will describe the general sequence of actions.

Connecting laminate flooring between rooms with a flush-mounted threshold

When installing the threshold with concealed installation, the bar is cut to the desired length. Holes are drilled in the seam, in the middle between the two coatings. Dowel plugs are installed in them. The dowel heads are inserted into the groove on the plank and distributed along the plank so that they are opposite the holes. It is more convenient to press the bar to one of the door jambs, turn it sideways, set the screws in this position.

If there is a self-adhesive layer on the bar, the protective film is removed. If there is no such layer, a thin strip is applied to the edges silicone sealant. It is better to choose a sealant that, after drying, remains elastic, and not hard. Such a seal will not collapse from periodic loads (when someone steps on the threshold).

Then we turn the bar with the fasteners installed, and carefully, from top to bottom, lower it into the holes. If the fasteners are set incorrectly, an assistant will be required. One person holds the bar, the second adjusts the position of the screws. When all the screws are in the holes, we take a rubber mallet or a hammer and a piece of wood and, with their help, seat the threshold in place.

Docking laminate with laminate between rooms with an open-mounted threshold

You can close the joint of the laminate with an ordinary threshold. First of all, we measure desired length strips, cut with a hacksaw. We clear the junction of debris. We apply the threshold as it will lie. Using a pencil or marker, we put marks on the floor through the holes for installing fasteners. We hold the pencil strictly perpendicular. Even a slight deviation can bring installation problems.

We take a drill, insert a drill. Diameter - 1 mm less than the diameter of the fastener. We drill holes in each of the marks. The drill, again, is vertical.

We install plastic dowel plugs into the holes, hammer them so that they are flush with the floor. Apply a layer of silicone sealant on the sides of the nut strip. Turn the plank over and put it in place. It must be lowered from top to bottom. Lateral movements are undesirable due to the possibility of smearing silicone. We take the screws, insert them from above, tighten them.

If during installation silicone squeezed out from under the bar, immediately take a damp cloth and wipe everything without residue. As long as it has not polymerized, it is removed without problems. After a few minutes, it can be difficult to achieve a clean surface.

Now you know how to join a laminate with the help of thresholds. It's not all that difficult.

Laying laminate without thresholds throughout the apartment

Not everyone likes laminate joints, no matter how you arrange them. IN small apartments you can lay this coating with a continuous carpet. But maximum length without thresholds - 10 meters, and width - 8 meters. Different manufacturers may have differences in the maximum allowable laying without connecting seams, but not by much.

Even if this is possible in your apartment, it is not very convenient if you need to repair the laminate. The fact is that the laminate can be deformed, rubbed, etc. When laying with joints, it is easier to get to the desired fragment and replace it. If there are no joints throughout the apartment, for any replacement you will have to sort through everything from the very end. Very uncomfortable, though not fatal.

Still, laying laminate without joints throughout the apartment requires a thoughtful development of a laying plan. After all, there are no joints, you have to think which of the schemes will be the most convenient.

Flooring is an important step in home improvement. They are placed on different materials. Today the most common laminate. Because it has many benefits. Chief among them is attractive

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appearance and long service life. His choice is quite rich, so you can choose for every taste and any interior. The room in which the laminate is laid will be cozy, comfortable and beautiful.

Laminate-to-laminate bonding can be done in a variety of ways

Laying this coating is quite a difficult job and must be carried out correctly. Otherwise, the laminate will look of poor quality and its service life will decrease. It is very important not only to think over the main laying work, but also additional ones. So, almost all floor coverings form joints that need to be hidden. They mostly appear at the intersection different rooms. After all, each of them has its own coverage.

Connecting laminate and laminate is not easy enough. Since it must be done carefully, at the same time, so that it does not form a tubercle, which will create obstacles for the movement of people. In addition, it should be completely invisible. Otherwise, the room will not only be uncomfortable, but the view will deteriorate.

Connections: when is it necessary?

As experience shows, specialists can cope with this work quickly and efficiently. Basically, problems arise when a person performs all the work on his own. This is explained simply. He does not have the necessary experience and skills to work. Therefore, it is more difficult for him. But you can always use the advice and tips of professionals who have already taken into account and thought everything over for a long time.

Making connections is very important when arranging the floor. It allows you to firmly fix the planks of the coating, as a result, they will not be able to move under mechanical stress and other impact factors. This laminate will last much longer.

When making joints, it is important to understand that these are not the joints that were obtained between the tiles during their laying, but those that were formed with the material that was laid a long time ago. Also, there are a number of cases when it is necessary to carry out this procedure. These include:

The connection that happened between the rooms;
When laying the floor in a room with a large area;
Laying different materials in one room. It can be a laminate that differs in color, appearance and other things. This is mainly done for zoning;
When finishing steps, thresholds and other differences that are on the floor.

Laminate to laminate joints: methods

The connection can be made different ways. The most common is the use of planks. They form a laminate lock connection. You can buy them in the same store where the main material is. At the same time, their differences should be taken into account. They come in different shapes and materials.

So, allocate direct, transitional, angular and final. The former are used in the arrangement of laminate connections with a laminate or with another coating. For example, when making a connection between tiles and laminate. If the joint was formed due to a difference in floor levels, then it is better to use transitional strips. Corner ones are used when working with steps or when arranging podiums. After the laying of the main cover is completed, the opening of the edge will appear. They do not look aesthetically pleasing, so they must be hidden. To do this, use the final profile.

Data Additional materials serve not only as decoration. They will also make all expansion joints hidden.

Laminate interlocking: plank materials

The strips that are used in the design of connections are made from different materials. They can be laminated, that is, obtained from wood and covered with a special film on top, which performs the function of decoration. The choice of such profiles is quite large. It allows you to choose the one that will be most suitable for the main coating and after installation will not be noticeable. Basically, such connections are made in the doorway.

Another version of the profiles is made of metal. Basically, brass or aluminum is used for these works. They are very durable, so they are recommended for use in places where there is high traffic.

You can also apply plastic profiles. They are highly flexible and soft. Therefore, they are suitable for uneven joints. In addition to these advantages, this material has a low cost and a large selection of shades. But the period of its operation is much inferior, which is a disadvantage.

For the design of corners, rubber profiles are better suited. In addition to their basic functions, they will make movement much safer.

Types of laminate connection

There are different types of connections. The most common castle. It firmly fixes the panels. Even with significant mechanical stress during operation, they do not change their position. Moreover, such a connection, without additional effort, is both disassembled and assembled. In this case, so-called click-locks are used. They can be reapplied up to five times.

Another advantage of such connections is that it has a high tightness index. So at high humidity, its properties are not violated. This does not affect the disassembly process in any way. It goes on easily and easily.

Adhesive bonding is also used. But this method is rare, it is not very practical, therefore, over time, it fades into the background, giving way to new methods of fastening. To perform this type of lock, glue is used, which lubricates the strips and seals them with a hammer.

This method is not very practical. Since it does not allow replacing one of the laminate boards or performing its general repair if necessary. And the process of removing the floor covering is quite complicated and lengthy. In addition, the low mobility and flexibility of the joints over time can cause it to break.

Above what has been said, it follows that it is necessary to responsibly approach the basic work of laying the floor covering, but also additional ones, such as connections.

When deciding how best to join the laminate, the craftsmen proceed from the structure of the materials being joined: it is easier to assemble the same type of planks into a single sheet than, for example, fit them under tiles and linoleum. The profile market offers a number of devices that facilitate the design of the floor from different coatings.

Before joining the laminate between rooms, it is important to consider optimal conditions to apply this method of laying floor finishes:

assorted sections of the laminate are easier to connect to each other in the doorway than to lay out all over;
in order to provide an opportunity for natural thermal expansion of the planks, rows every 7-8 m should contain compensation gaps 1-1.5 cm wide;
if in different rooms different types of panels are used, locking connections may not match;
zoning the room also implies careful design of the joints so that the selected shades and textures of the lamellas are harmoniously combined;
if a podium is planned, without such a frame, the steps will look messy.

The lock connection is reliable and durable, it firmly holds all the details of the coating. At the same time, depending on the temperature and humidity conditions, the laminate is able to change dimensions, it narrows and expands. Deformation gaps allow you to maintain the integrity of the wood structure when changing the microclimate. If you correctly dock the material, that section of the gap that falls on the doorway will be masked.

How to join the laminate?

The connection can be made using thresholds, adhesive compositions, cork compensators, polyurethane foam. The choice depends on the type of coverage and the characteristics of the room.

Castle method

Relevant for identical planks that match in height and structure. The locks in the slats taken from the same batch will match exactly, so this method finishing is used in small rooms that do not need additional deformation gaps.

Connecting strips - sills

The most common elements that attract low cost, ease of installation, widespread availability on sale. Depending on the design, the product can be glued or screwed over the gap that needs to be hidden between different-sized areas of the coatings. Such a gap will be enough for the natural expansion of the lamellae, the wood structure will not warp and rear up.

Nuts are made from a wide range of materials, the most versatile being metal with variable lengths. They help to dock a variety of coatings, including laminate with linoleum and ceramic tiles.

Cork expansion joints

Usually they allow you to connect the lamellas together, less often they are used to work with mismatched types of floor finishes. Due to the soft structure of the cork, it is possible to lay the coating without gaps: when the wood expands, the expansion joint will shrink, and during the shrinkage of the panels, the material will take on its original shape.

The product is introduced after the completion of the floor assembly: a small spatula will help to lay it in the remaining cavity. Cork is difficult to see unless you know exactly where it is, as it matches the color of the main trim. If necessary, the compensator is tinted with paint or a marker.

Foams and sealants

They are used infrequently, as they stain the surrounding surfaces. Their advantage is the ability to mask gaps of any width; they can be used to join sections of complex shape. It is important to remove excess composition after application, otherwise traces will remain. In this case, it will not be possible to dismantle the surrounding panels without destruction, the sealant will not allow the wood to expand, so the method is not used in large rooms.

Often the connecting components are shipped with the laminate batch. They fit perfectly when arranging different materials, although they cost an order of magnitude more expensive than universal slats. Such elements are produced only by large brands that produce laminate.

Types of connecting sills (slats)

Depending on the material, the products are divided into:

laminated. Pressed wood shavings are laid as a basis, a laminated coating imitating the texture of lamellas is provided on the outside. With their help, aesthetic docking is provided, but they are vulnerable to moisture;
rubber. Usually they have an angular design, they are used to decorate the edges of podiums and stairs. Rubber is devoid of sharp edges, durable and strong;
metal. They are made of aluminum, steel, brass, the outer decorative layer is made in wood, gold, silver colors. High strength allows them to be used in areas with high traffic;
wooden. They are less common due to the high cost of the material, they are used to decorate the interface zone of sections collected from natural wood. They need careful maintenance, regular polishing and updating the varnish layer.

The following profile forms are common:

straight. Standard variations that are in demand for the design of joints between coatings that have the same height;
transitional. Designed specifically to work with multi-level materials;
angular. They are used to combine perpendicular surfaces, for example, when finishing stairs, podiums;

With the help of finishing strips, the edge of the last laminated panel is decorated.

The nuances of mounting connecting profiles

The quality of the final joint is affected by the evenness of the rough coating: height differences are highly undesirable. The maximum permissible deviation from the horizontal in this case is only 2 mm.

It is important that before laying the laminate and all components acclimatize in the room for 48 hours, otherwise there is a high risk of swelling of the coating even if the expansion gaps are observed.

Installation is carried out at positive air temperature. It is advisable to orient the slats and joint zones in the studio apartment along the rays of light entering the room, in which case the joints will be less noticeable.

Docking options and technologies

The process of designing the connecting zones varies depending on what materials you have to work with. Most often, the task of interfacing the laminate in two adjacent rooms arises, and when laying the floor in the studio, wood flooring can be combined with linoleum and tiles.

between rooms

The algorithm for using thresholds:

Make measurements of the connecting strip and the doorway. It is important to make sure that the nut not only fits into the entrance area, but also completely covers the entire length of the expansion gap.
The bar is applied to the future location, markings are applied through the holes in the product: further holes for dowels in the rough base will be drilled along it. The fixing points should not affect the laminated base, they are prepared in the center of the gap. You also need to circle the location of the nut.
In accordance with the markings, holes are formed in the subfloor, while the diameter of the drill is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the dowels supplied with the connecting plate.
Dowels are placed in the holes, a threshold is laid on top.
The bar is fixed with self-tapping screws, carefully screwing them in and tightening them tightly in plastic dowels.

The sills with hidden fasteners are mounted as follows:

By analogy with the previous case, measurements and markings are made.
The underside of the product is equipped with a groove into which the caps of self-tapping screws with already screwed dowels are placed.
Holes are formed according to the markup.
The threshold is held over the masked gap, while the dowels with self-tapping screws are moved along the groove so that they fall into the holes created by the perforator.
The bar is tapped with a hammer through a folded fabric or wooden block so that it sinks close to the level of the laminate.

There are also thresholds on a self-adhesive tape, they are easier to install, but there is a high risk of their displacement during operation.

with tiles

If metal sills are a priority, the algorithm for their installation is described above. Here you can also use a cork compensator as a docking profile.

Procedure:

For the accurate introduction of a flexible cork expansion joint, it is cut not only along the length of the doorway, but also along the height of the floor covering so that it does not protrude above the laminate and tiles.
After laying the laminate, the connecting element is fixed with construction adhesive. First, the rough base is covered with an adhesive, a cork bar is applied, but at this stage it is not pressed.
To seal the gaps, acrylic sealant is applied, then the retainer is pressed against the laminate and the subfloor. Excess sealant is removed with a damp sponge, the surface is cleaned with a dry rag.
On the other hand, ceramic tiles are laid.

Such a method of docking is expedient not only from the point of view of aesthetics, it allows you to protect the floor from water penetration, increase the operational life of the coatings.

With linoleum

The materials have different thicknesses, so here it is necessary to visually smooth out the difference in height. Multilevel joints are easier to organize using metal sills - this classic method is even for beginners.

If you want to equip the floor without deviating from the horizontal, you can put dense material under thin linoleum and use a convenient T-shaped molding when connecting.

What is a laminate, I think everyone knows. This stuff is very popular right now. Excellent appearance and affordable price- these are the main factors that people take into account when choosing this flooring for their house or apartment. How to lay laminate This is what we are going to try to figure out now.

As usual, we start with surface preparation. To begin with, our subfloor needs to be examined for any irregularities. Basically, manufacturers allow unevenness up to 2 mm per meter of floor area. Those. You take an even rail (level, rule) 1 meter long and apply it to the floor in different places and in different directions, determining the presence of depressions and bumps.

Drops on concrete floors are leveled with a thin screed device from self-leveling bulk mixtures. If you have uneven wooden floors, then it is advisable to put chipboard or plywood on them. Good for laying laminate flooring. It is important to understand here that the more irregularities on the base, the more likely there are gaps between the laminate panels. When walking on the floor in places of unevenness, the panels bend relative to each other, the interlocks gradually wear out. And the lower the quality of the laminate itself, the faster the cracks will appear.

The next step is to lay the underlay. Its thickness is usually from 2 to 4 mm. It is not worth making the substrate thicker, this will again lead to wear of the locks. The choice of substrates is now very diverse. The cheapest are obtained from polyethylene foams (penofol, polyfoam, isolon and many others).

Cork substrates are more environmentally friendly, but also more expensive. There are substrates made of extruded polystyrene foam, made in the form of rectangular sheets. One side is ribbed. When laying, it should be facing down.

In general, the choice is large, and besides, it is constantly replenished. To be honest, I can't advise what to choose. I never felt any noticeable difference. As usual with every manufacturer, his product is the best. Let me just say that the service life of all the above types of substrates is much higher than that of the laminate itself, so any of them is quite acceptable.

When laying laminate concrete base, under the substrate you need to additionally spread waterproofing. It can be, for example, a simple polyethylene film 0.2 mm thick or any other waterproofing film.

Before laying, the laminate should lie in the room for at least 2 days so that it adapts to the temperature and humidity of the room. Laying is recommended to be done along the direction sun rays. When laid across, the joints give small shadows and they become a little more noticeable, spoiling the integrity of the appearance.

In general, there are two ways to install a laminate:

adhesive;
castle.

The adhesive laying method has one good advantage - the joints are reliably protected from moisture penetration. As a result, the service life of the coating is increased. But the laying process itself is more complicated and time-consuming (compared to the castle), besides, there are additional costs for glue. In rooms where a floor heating system is installed, it is not recommended to use this method.

Glue laying is carried out by applying a special water-repellent glue to the ends of the panels (sold together with the laminate). Under no circumstances should a water-based adhesive (e.g. PVA) be used. This will cause the joints to swell. Glue is applied to the panel groove along the entire length. Then the groove is joined with the spike of the previously laid panel. The connection is sealed with light hammer blows through a wooden block. Excess glue is wiped off with a damp cloth.

After laying 3 rows of panels, it is better to let the glue dry for a couple of hours. Then we lay the floor to the end. The coating can be put into operation 10-12 hours after installation is completed.

The adhesive method of laying is now used less and less. There is practically no such laminate on sale. It is being squeezed out of the market by lock panels. This is due to the ease of installation of the latter. Moreover, the coating of the lock laminate can even be disassembled without damaging the panels and, for example, transferred to another room. Although, to be honest, I have never heard of anyone doing this.

Locks from all manufacturers of laminate have their own characteristics and differences. But in general, all of them can be divided into 2 groups: Click And lock.

When laying laminate with locks such as lock one panel is driven into another with a hammer. Thanks to special combs, the spike is securely fixed in the groove without the use of glue.

Type locks Click appeared later and are considered to be of better quality and wear-resistant. They are mounted by turning one panel into another at an angle (30-45º). Then it is pressed to the floor and the lock snaps into place. I’ll add on my own that you still have to hammer the laminate with a hammer, although manufacturers don’t write about this on the instructions.

The installation sequence of the laminate of all the types described above is almost the same. Laying starts from the left corner of the room. Before laying the 1st row, it is necessary to measure the width of the room and calculate how wide the last row will be. Otherwise, it may turn out that you cover the whole room and at the end there will be a gap of 2-3 cm along the wall. You can’t close it with a plinth, and such a narrow strip of laminate will not hold well. The width must be at least 5 cm. To do this, you will need to cut the panels of the first row to length.

Between the laminate and the walls it is necessary to leave a gap for thermal expansion. Usually it is made about 1 cm. The main thing is that it is then closed with a plinth.

So we collect the first row of laminate from left to right. The rightmost panel basically always needs to be cut off (do not forget the gaps). From the remaining piece, you can start the next row, so we get the necessary spacing of the seams. It is recommended that this difference be at least 30 cm.

Having typed the first row between the laminate and the walls, we insert wedges to provide the necessary clearance, while you need to monitor the straightness of the row. Actually, I do things a little differently. When knocking panels of subsequent rows with a hammer, the wedges often fly out, the straightness of the row is disturbed, in general, it is inconvenient. Therefore, I fix the first row with self-tapping screws with washers (if we lay them on a wooden floor) or dowel-nails with washers (if the floor is concrete). I screw them in the corners and at the joints of the panels of the first row. After finishing the installation of the laminate, be sure to unscrew it.

When laying laminate with glue and with hammer type locks lock each subsequent panel is first joined along the long edge, then along the end.

When laying laminate with lock type Click first, a whole series of panels is assembled and then it is completely inserted into the previous one. With a large width of the room alone, it is inconvenient to do this, it is better together.

When installing for tamping laminate panels, it is convenient to use a special set of tools. If this is not available, knock the laminate through a piece of panel (10-15 cm), inserting it into the groove with a spike. When installing the rightmost panels of the row and the entire last row, you can wring it out of the wall with a small nail puller, only carefully, through the lining, so as not to damage the walls and laminate.

After completing the installation, you need to install the skirting boards, and they can only be fixed to the wall, and not to the floor.

Laying laminate is not as easy as it seems at first glance. This process has a lot of nuances, the observance of which is important for the successful completion of the procedure. AND correct docking laminate between rooms, as well as with other coatings, just refers to these aspects of proper installation. The procedure is simple, but it is important to know how to join the laminate between rooms. Only with the necessary knowledge, it will be possible to create neat and beautiful floors.

How to dock laminate and tile - photo

This material, which is a rectangular long slats, which consist of several layers, is one of the most sought after floor coverings on the market. It is highly durable, attractive appearance, ease of installation. The coating itself, created from a laminate, can serve for many years if strips of the appropriate quality were used for manufacturing, and they were correctly laid.

On a note! The thickness of one lamella varies between 9-11 mm. The width is 19.5 cm, and the length of the bar can be up to 185 cm.

The coating consists of several layers, its base is made of fiberboard, and other layers are located above and below it. From above, the coating is covered with a special protection made of melamine resin, under which there is a layer responsible for giving the material a certain color (for example, imitation of a cut of wood or stone). bottom layer also performs a protective function. Thanks to the top layer, the coating is not afraid of exposure to ultraviolet rays, moisture and other external factors.

Laminate does not like water, and its side, unlike the bottom or top, usually does not have moisture protection. That is why it is important to correctly lay the material so that there are no gaps between the individual lamellas. However, often when laying a flooring in an apartment between separate rooms or other rooms, you have to join the lamellas - it is not always possible to lay a laminate with one continuous cover. Also, often this type of coating is joined with other types of materials for finishing the floor - for example, tiles, linoleum, etc.

On a note! Since laminate does not like water, it is rarely installed in rooms with high humidity. These are kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms. Ceramic tiles usually take their rightful place there. And it is also very important to properly and beautifully dock with the laminate.

Prices for laminate "Tarkett"

tarkett laminate

Why you need a connection

Why is it so important to correctly arrange the joints of the laminate between rooms? There are several correct answers to this question:

individual sections of the coating are sometimes easier to dock between rooms than to continue to lay out the coating all over;
according to the recommendations of experts, every 7-8 meters between the rows of laminate should be gaps about 10-15 mm wide. They are necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the slats;
jointing is necessary for joining different types laminate, the interlocks of which do not match;
the procedure is performed with a combination of lamellas of different colors or different coatings when zoning a room;
it is also indispensable in the design of steps, if the room has a podium.

By itself, the locking connection between the lamellas is quite strong and reliable; it will not allow individual parts of the coating to walk. But the laminate is a “live” coating, it is able to change its dimensions depending on the temperature and humidity of the air, either expanding or narrowing. That is why the presence of deformation gaps is necessary. Still, the laminate has in its structure a wood component, which reacts sharply to changes in humidity and temperature.

On a note! Such deformation gaps must also remain along the walls along the perimeter of the room. Otherwise, the coating may bulge over time.

Thus, it is necessary to do the joining of individual parts of the coating and not always the reason is that it is required to connect the floors in separate rooms. It will also look ugly if you leave different types of coatings without joining.

How to join laminate

Connecting individual laminate planks between two rooms can be done in several ways. It can be docking with locks, directly available on the lamellas, docking with thresholds, cork compensator or adhesive mixtures such as sealants or mounting foam.

lock connection suitable if the same planks of the coating are joined, having the same structure and height. Simply put, when lamellas from the same batch are used. In this case, the locks will match exactly. Also, the method is suitable for small premises, where additional compensation gaps between the coating areas are simply not needed.

Nuts are used more often than other elements for docking. This is due to the simplicity of their installation, availability and low cost - you can buy sills at any hardware store for little money. The profile is simply screwed or glued (depending on the type of product) to the gap remaining between the laid sections of the coatings. This gap will be sufficient so that the lamellas can easily expand if necessary, and the coating will not rear up. By the way, sills can be made from a variety of materials, but standard metal ones are most often used. Their length can also vary.

On a note! With the help of thresholds, you can join a variety of types of floor coverings among themselves, including laminate with ceramic tiles or laminate with linoleum.

It is usually used only to connect two sections of a laminated coating, less often - to connect different types of coatings. Such a product will allow you to avoid the presence of gaps on the floor at all, since cork is a rather soft material and will simply wrinkle when the coating expands, and when it shrinks, it will return to its original shape again. The cork compensator is laid already immediately after the installation of the entire coating - with the help of a small spatula, as it were, it is inserted into the cavity of the remaining gap. Usually the cork is not even visible to the naked eye, since the color rarely differs from the coating itself. And if necessary, it can be tinted with a marker or paint.

Sealant and foam are used less often as they can stain the surface of the coating. But on the other hand, with their help, you can hide gaps of any width and join sections of coatings that have rather bizarre shapes. It is important to immediately remove excess material after application, otherwise after drying they will leave ugly marks. The main disadvantage of the method is the impossibility of dismantling this section of the panels if necessary. Also, due to the sealant, the lamellas cannot expand, which means that the method can only be used in small areas.

Sometimes connecting elements are produced together with the laminate. They are ideal for joining individual sections of the coating. They cost, as a rule, more than universal connecting elements. Usually such options are produced only by large and well-known manufacturers laminated coating.

Types of connecting strips

All connectors for individual sections of flooring can be divided into several categories. They are divided by the type of material from which they are made, as well as by shape.

Table. What can sills be made from?

Type / material of manufacture	Peculiarities
	This type of sills is made from pressed wood shavings, in other words, these are MDF moldings. They have a laminated coating on the top, which gives the desired color to the product. Usually selected in accordance with the texture of the lamellae. They allow you to discreetly and beautifully join individual sections of the laminate floor. The disadvantage is that MDF moldings are afraid of moisture.
	It can be made of several types of metal - aluminum, brass, steel. The surface has decorative coating, which is often done in gold, wood or silver. Due to the high strength of the product, they are usually installed in places with high traffic and a significant impact on the floor covering.
	Pretty flexible and suitable option for the design of curly joints between coatings. Such a threshold is made of plastic, it is inexpensive, it can be made in almost any color. The main drawback is the fragility, which is why such a threshold quickly loses its appearance.
	It usually looks like an angular profile and is used if you need to decorate the edges of stairs or podiums. Made from rubber. Strong, durable product with no sharp edges.
	A rather expensive option for sills, which is rarely used for joining laminate. It is more often used for the design of joints between individual sections of a natural wooden floor. The nut is difficult to care for, constantly requires varnishing and polishing.

Combined floor in the hallway - tiles and laminate

Also, profiles for decorating joints can have different shape. They are:

direct- these are used to form joints between two types of laminate or between a laminate and other coatings. The main thing is that they have the same height, otherwise it will be inconvenient to fasten the sills;
transitional- this version of the nut is useful just for joining multi-level coatings;
corner- such a threshold is useful if you need to connect two perpendicular surfaces to each other, for example, when decorating podiums and stairs;
final– allow you to close the edge of the last lath of the laminate.

What to consider before starting installation work?

Before you start joining two separate sections of the laminate flooring or connecting it to another type of floor finish, you should take into account several features and make sure that all the necessary requirements for the working conditions have been met. For example, the installation of a laminate and its docking can only be carried out if the rough base is perfectly even. There shouldn't be any gaps.

On a note! The maximum horizontal deviation of the floor prepared for laying the laminate should not exceed 2 mm.

Also, do not lay and immediately acquired laminate. He must necessarily lie down in the room for two days before starting work. Otherwise, the coating will most likely heave over time, and even the presence of compensation gaps will not save the situation.

Installation of laminate can only be carried out at positive temperatures. Work begins from the farthest corner of the room from the exit. It is also recommended to orient the lamellas along the direction of incidence of light rays, so the joints between the lamellas will be minimally noticeable.

Mounting of connecting strips

Let's see how the installation of connector thresholds is carried out, which are necessary for joining individual sections of the laminate between rooms.

Step 1. The first step is to measure the threshold and doorway. It is necessary to make sure that the product enters the opening and completely closes the deformation gap along the entire length.

Step 2 The threshold is applied to the installation site, markings are applied through the holes in it, which will allow you to outline the drilling points of the rough base. Dowel holes should be drilled in the center of the gap and not on the surface of the laminate. The location of the nut is also noted.

Step 3 At the marking site, holes are made in the subfloor. The diameter of the drill should be optimal for the size of the dowels included with the nut.

Step 4 Dowels are inserted into the holes made in the floor.

Step 5 The sill is placed in its intended place.

Step 6 The strap is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into plastic dowels and tightened tightly.

On sale there are also sills with hidden fasteners. In this case, you will have to act as follows.

Step 1. As in the previous case, the threshold and doorway are measured, and then markings are applied to the subfloor in the places where the dowels will be inserted.

Step 2 The threshold with hidden fasteners has reverse side a groove into which the self-tapping screws are inserted. The dowels are screwed onto the self-tapping screws immediately.

Step 3 According to the previously applied marks, holes are made for the dowels.

Step 4 The nut is attached to the gap, which must be closed with it. Dowels fixed on self-tapping screws, moving along the groove, are inserted into the holes made by the perforator.

On a note! There are also self-adhesive sills on sale, on the wrong side they have a special adhesive tape that allows you to fix the product in the right place.

Video - Nut mounting option

Joining laminate and tiles

If you need to join the laminate and tiles, you can act in the same way as when installing metal thresholds, or you can use another version of the docking profile - a cork compensator.

Step 1. To install a flexible cork expansion joint, you will need to cut it not only to the required length of the doorway, but also in height so that it does not protrude above the surface of the coatings.

Step 2 The laminate at this stage has already been laid, you need to start laying the tiles. But first, the cork sill itself is glued to the base with the help of reliable building glue. First, glue is applied to the rough base along the edge of the laminate, on which the threshold is then laid, but is not temporarily pressed.

Step 3 Acrylic sealant is also used to seal the gaps between the cork compensator and the laminate. Then the cork expansion joint is pressed against the subfloor and the laminate.

Step 4 Excess sealant is removed with a sponge dipped in water. The surface is then wiped with a dry cloth.

Step 5 In the traditional way, on the other side of the cork compensator, ceramic tiles are laid on the glue.

In general, joining laminate and tiles is necessary to achieve aesthetic harmony, extend the life of coatings, and protect the joint from water.

Video - Option for joining laminate and tiles

It is not difficult to join individual sections of a laminate or different types of floor coverings to each other. The main thing is to know how it's done. In general, if you follow the installation instructions, difficulties should not arise even for novice craftsmen.