How to increase the door opening. Design of the doorway (1). Video - Milling for a loop

During the repair process, for one reason or another, it may be necessary to expand the doorway. It is quite possible to do this, but it is important to follow some rules. The process itself is very labor-intensive, so it should only be performed if there is really a need for it and alternative methods cannot be used.

If the doorway is significantly widened, reinforcement installation is required

Valid parameters

In a private house, solving the problem of rebuilding individual parts of the building is much easier. However, we must not forget about the established norms and restrictions. In an apartment, any such actions should be agreed upon in advance with the BTI. Violation of the standards when trying to expand the opening can lead to the wall not being able to withstand the load and the building becoming dangerous for people to stay in it.

To prevent this, it is important to know what restrictions exist for expanding the entrance or interior door. For most designs, the standard dimensions are 70-80 cm. Most often, changes in these values are due to the purchase door block wrong size.

The maximum permissible openings are 200 cm wide and 210 cm high. It is advisable not to build them in load-bearing structures. An exception may be an opening front door, but in this case it should be further strengthened.

Scheme for strengthening the opening in load-bearing wall with a jumper made of channels

Tools for work

To increase the doorway in modern construction can be used various instruments and devices. There are several ways to dismantle excess wall:

Rough method. In this case, tools such as a sledgehammer, hammer drill, jackhammer and the like are used. In this case, it is necessary to first outline the contours and use tools to knock off the excess. Of course, the process is very labor-intensive, and there is another threat here - the formation of microcracks due to high impact loads. This may require additional finishing works and generally worsens the strength of the wall structure.
Dry cutting. For this purpose, such a familiar tool as a grinder is used. With its help, you can easily cut out the desired shape of the contours. It also copes with reinforcement. The downside is that you have to cut on both sides, and it’s not always possible to match the cuts exactly. In addition, dry cutting leads to the formation of a large amount of dust and quickly wears out the diamond blade.
Wet cutting. For this purpose, you can use a spray bottle and irrigate the work surface while working with an angle grinder, but a more rational method would be to use a special construction cutter. It is equipped with a large diamond blade and a water container. With its help you can cut out in one go the right size opening and at the same time with minimal contamination. True, the cost of such equipment is considerable.

Basic methods of dismantling part of a wall in an opening

When carrying out such work, be sure to use personal protection: glasses and a respirator, they will protect you from dust and small fragments.

Panel house

Most often there is a need to expand the doorway precisely in panel house. In high-rise buildings, this issue is quite problematic, since in addition to a large amount of construction waste, there is also a negative reaction from neighbors to such noisy renovation work. That is why it is necessary to reduce the time of dismantling the structure as much as possible. The best option, affordable, this is a grinder.

First you need to completely remove the old door frame from the opening. Supporting wooden beams are also dismantled. Next, you need to make the appropriate measurements and outline the contours of the desired passage dimensions.

If an opening is being expanded in a load-bearing wall, especially one adjacent to the front door, an important aspect is the temporary strengthening of the structure. It is best to initially cut out only the top part and move the jumper. Despite the increase in width, it should go deeper into the wall by at least 15-20 cm on each side.

When expanding an opening in a panel house, an important aspect is temporary strengthening of the structure

Cutting is carried out along the intended contour, first on one side of the room, and then on the other. The most problematic areas are the exit of the reinforcement. After the metal bars are cut, you can take a sledgehammer and remove excess concrete. If the opening area is large, you need to work in squares. To do this, the wall is divided into sections and additional lines are cut. Dismantling is done from top to bottom so that upper tiers did not fall on you during the work process.

Brick house

The process of expanding the opening in brick wall. It is important to be careful here, since excessive impact loads can lead to the destruction of the entire masonry. It is best to perform this operation in the following sequence:

Outline the contours of the future opening.
If necessary, move the jumper. You can use a metal channel as reinforcement.
You need to remove excess bricks one by one. To begin with, the mortar is cleaned from the seams as much as possible. Then use a hammer drill, chisel, or chisel to break the brick into small pieces.
If the work area is large, you can clean the outline of the opening, and inner part knock out the masonry with a sledgehammer.
The extreme contours are cut off with a grinder. For arched vaults, you initially need to clear the edges of the bricks around the perimeter.

When expanding an opening in a brick wall, a lintel must be used to strengthen it

If you need to make a wide entrance opening in a brick house, you will additionally need to cut off the reinforcement.

After rough work, check the integrity of the masonry and, if necessary, plaster cracks and cracked seams.

Height increase

In addition to expanding the doorway in the load-bearing wall, it may also be necessary to increase its height. In this case, you cannot do without moving the horizontal jumper. Without it, the entire burden will fall on the fragile door structure, which can lead to wall collapse.

How to safely increase the height of a doorway? To do this, you must first install supports in the passage. Then, using a grinder, vertical cuts are made to knock off the excess concrete. The old jumper is removed. Its edges can be left in the wall or replaced with a brick backing. The new crossbar is installed higher and covered with mortar. Further work can be done only after it has dried.

To safely increase the height of the opening, you need to install a jumper

It is not recommended to carry out such manipulations in a load-bearing wall. If such a need is unavoidable, follow the rules for performing dismantling work and in no case deviate from the established norms; violation of them is fraught with a fine and, in addition, is life-threatening.

The desire to arrange an arched opening or install a new door leads to the expansion and increase in height of the opening. If in interior partition While it is possible to cut an opening of any complexity from lightweight material, openings in load-bearing walls definitely require special attention.

Existing risks

Modern factory door designs very often do not fit into the interior openings of Soviet-era apartments, and only widening the openings saves the situation.

Enlarged openings in load-bearing walls

In addition, the new units have completely standard door sizes, which are very different from the older products that have been in place for the past decades. This may be the height, but more often the door opening is not satisfied with the width. In this case, the problem of decorative and functional arrangement of an interior transition can only be solved by enlarging the hole in the wall or narrowing (reducing) it.

Let's talk specifically about increasing the passage between adjacent rooms. But it doesn’t always turn out to be safe to widen the hole under the door in different types buildings.

For example, if you restore a partition that is not the main functional basis of the building, made of gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard), sibit (cellular aerated concrete) or other lightweight building material, then nothing bad will happen. On the contrary, the work will be somewhat troublesome, if we consider the transfer of metal profiles under the gypsum board, but it will be successful.

In gypsum plasterboard partitions, the expansion of the opening is done by transferring the profile and cutting the sheet

It’s a completely different matter to increase passages in load-bearing walls. Reconstruction of a similar plan in partitions of load-bearing value is already considered a redevelopment of the premises. This means that the work must be carried out in full accordance with a separate project, which contains an accurate engineering calculation of the redistribution of loads on the floor after the full scope of changes made.

Officially developed project for strengthening the opening

To reproduce such work in multi-apartment buildings, it is necessary to collect a complete package of documents regarding regional requirements:

certificates from the local BTI;
documentation of home ownership, extract from the house register;
floor plan of the entire building;
a plan for future reconstruction from an architectural organization;
a plan for all stages of future work, and so on.

Minimal damage from incorrect redevelopment

If you think about it, the solution to increasing the passage in the apartment will bring a lot of red tape, but it’s worth it. After all, this list of documents, first of all, is needed not for show, but personally for the safety of you, your loved ones and the people living around your apartment. Unauthorized damage to a load-bearing partition in a multi-story building can lead, at a minimum, to the collapse of the wall, and at maximum, to collapse part of the house. We don't need irreparable consequences; we just need to strengthen the openings.

Calculations of expansion parameters for doors

If you have a door structure for which you need to adjust the size of the hole in the wall, you can calculate the exact parameters of the work. Cutting the opening by eye will not work; it is better to make precise markings. To make an opening with your own hands to the exact dimensions of the structure, it is worth making the following measurements:

height and width of the existing door;
thickness and width of the door frame that comes with the kit;
remove the width of the platbands that are planned to be installed;
pick up the threshold and remove its height, if, of course, it will be installed.

Calculation of the dimensions of the opening and the door located in it

So, the calculation of the available sizes is as follows:

The required width of the passage in the wall consists of the following parameters: the width of the door leaf, the thickness of the frame post, the technological gaps on each side (≈2 cm).
The height of the doorway is determined as follows: the height of the threshold is added to the thickness of the frame, plus the technological gap.
The thickness of the passage wall is generally 75 mm. For other indicators, extensions are added if the walls are much wider, or a door frame with a narrower beam is selected.

Do-it-yourself arch calculation

If you want to arrange an arched vault in the transition to adjacent rooms, expanding the transitions to adjacent rooms cannot be avoided.

Dimensions of arches depending on the width of the opening

Making an opening in the form of an arch is not difficult, the main thing is to properly prepare for the work, that is, calculate the arch. An arched opening can have any type of configuration. That is, you can make any shape of the arched vault, and the curved bend can be attributed to a creative view of the matter.

It is much more difficult to make a classically shaped arch with an oval regular bend of 45 cm, so we stock up on the following equipment for calculation work on a scale of 1:50:

compass;
paper;
Pythagorean theorem from school curriculum: R²=L²+(R²-H²).

It has long been derived from the well-known Pythagorean formula, and construction masters use the formula to calculate the exact radius of the circle of the future arch in the opening R=L²+H²/2H.

Opening size: r is the radius of the circle, L is half the chord of the arc, h is the lifting height

You can make it a little easier when determining the radius of the classic arch shape, but not entirely accurate:

draw a doorway of future expanded natural dimensions on paper (previously, a piece of wallpaper for the walls was used for this);
a compass is placed on the axis of symmetry and, changing the radius, several arcs are drawn;
the optimal option is selected, and the remaining radii are erased.

Where does the span expansion process begin?

Carved arched doorway in concrete wall

Before making a doorway in a wall wider, you should take care not only of dismantling the old door structure, but also of strengthening the openings. In panel buildings, reinforcement can be done after the concrete cutting is completed, but brick openings require some attention. You can make a monumental opening in a load-bearing brick wall with your own hands, but this will require the following list of materials and tools:

steel channel cross section in the form of "P";
coupling bolts with a diameter of 20 mm;
studs d16 mm;
steel plates sheet steel;
metal corners;
cement mortar;
electric drill;
a gas cutter, an electric cutter or a manual grinder with a diamond wheel;

Unloading a load-bearing wall using a jack

Concrete cutting can be done using a variety of tools, but diamond cutting is the most acceptable option.

supports or jacks for the period of work;
hammer drill when working with a brick wall.

The cross-section of the beam and the class of material used in the work to strengthen the opening are determined during preliminary calculations of the future load. The data obtained must be included in the design document for the redevelopment of the interior. The length of the steel channel is selected so that its profile penetrates the thickness of the brick wall by at least 25 centimeters.

Reinforcing a brick wall opening with a channel

It is better to immediately make holes in the channel for the coupling bolts, of which you need at least 3 pieces for an opening of medium length. It is advisable to distribute the ties along the channel at a distance of 50 cm.

Dismantling work in brick and concrete walls

Diamond cutting of opening

The expansion of openings by cutting concrete begins according to pre-created markings on the plane. Diamond cutting will make the process somewhat easier, especially if you use circles that reach a cutting depth of 10 centimeters. During work, it is recommended to constantly wet the walls to reduce dust formation. So don’t forget about safety measures:

special glasses;
respirator;
gloves;
protective suit.

It is worth noting that openings in load-bearing walls require double-sided work. That is, cutting out the opening on both sides of the premises due to its massiveness.

Strengthening the openings, as noted earlier, is done before dismantling the wall. The best option for strengthening the reliability of a load-bearing partition would be to use welded frames on both sides, tightened with studs through the walls.

Reinforced opening design

Concrete walls are cut out into small areas, rectangles or squares. Whereas in brick partitions, a through cut is made, and the blocks themselves are knocked down with a hammer drill, and then with a sledgehammer, if necessary. It is strictly not recommended to use a hammer drill for concrete. Strong vibration effects can be destructive to the panel and cause a number of microcracks, which will weaken the entire structure. Brick walls require a completely different approach, as demonstrated in the video below.

Projects of old and modern multi-storey buildings do not always suit individual apartment residents. Narrow doors create discomfort and prevent the passage of large furniture. To solve the problem, widen the openings by demolishing part of the partition. Meet the project with reverse side The question is that the doors are too wide. The overall sash sags on its hinges under the weight and looks ugly. To solve this problem, apartment residents begin to narrow the doorway during a major renovation.

Is changing the dimensions and location of the passage considered redevelopment?

To expand or narrow doorway in a panel house you will have to change the length of the adjacent wall. In the technical passport for the apartment, the door is shown schematically. Dimensions are usually not indicated, but the BTI has all the data. When expanding or narrowing the passage in the wall, the layout of the room, originally provided for in the project, is violated. Over time, if you want to sell the apartment, great difficulties will arise with the preparation of documentation.

By law, changing the size or location of the opening for a door block is considered redevelopment. It is advisable to legitimize the corresponding actions. To obtain permission to expand or narrow an interior doorway in a panel house, you need to contact the BTI.

Tool

To perform a narrowing or widening doorways in an apartment, you will need a simple construction tool:

hammer, sledgehammer, long chisel;
hand saw for wood;
plane;
hammer drill, drill, screwdriver, grinder;
pliers, figured and straight screwdriver.

The set of materials depends on the work performed. To narrow the interior doorway, you will need a wooden beam, a metal profile, drywall, brick or foam block. The blocks are laid on cement mortar, and the gypsum board sheets are fixed to metal frame self-tapping screws. When expanding the doorway in height, you will need a metal corner to strengthen the upper lintel.

Ways to reduce a passage in a wall

Narrowing an old doorway during redevelopment involves reducing the size of the door in height or width, as well as in both parameters at the same time. The procedure can be performed in three ways: using timber, drywall or blocks.

The most reliable method to reduce an opening in a wall is to partially block it with blocks. The option is ideal for the front door. Suitable materials include brick, cinder block, and cellular concrete blocks. It is better to use foam block or aerated concrete for interior partitions. The material is light, easy to cut, but absorbs moisture. It is slightly less durable than brick.

The work consists of the following actions:

to reduce the height of the passage in the wall, prepare a jumper from a beam or a metal corner;
the workpiece is cut off larger than the width of the passage, and landing nests are made under it at the ends of the wall using a grinder;
After fixing the lintel, the space above it and the sides of the passage in the wall are filled with blocks.

When choosing this method, take into account the weight of the blocks. The heavier the material, the stronger the jumper will be needed. If the whole block does not fit into the gap above the jumper, it is sawed with a grinder or wood, polystyrene foam, or polyurethane foam are used for filling. The disadvantage of porous blocks is the absorption of moisture. To prevent fungus from appearing, the structure is treated with protective impregnation.

How to reduce a doorway with timber?

It is easier for an apartment dweller who does not have construction experience to reduce the width of the doorway with timber, and also to lower it. The work order consists of the following stages:

The thickness of the timber used to narrow the doorway is adjusted with a planer so that the workpiece does not protrude beyond the plane of the wall. The surface is treated with a grinder. In this case, the finishing material will fit better.
The dimensions taken from the opening are transferred to the timber. Workpieces are cut with a saw required length and fix them to the ends of the wall. The thickness of the beam should not protrude beyond the plane of the wall, and the upper lintel should be cut to such a width that it fits tightly into the ends of the side walls.
When drilling mounting holes on the beam, recesses are provided to allow the heads of the fastening elements to be hidden flush.
The posts and lintel are fixed to the wall with anchors, bolts or other parts.
Large gaps between the frame and the end of the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. Small cracks are sealed with putty.
The finished structure is impregnated with a primer. After drying, they are covered with gypsum board, chipboard or other sheet material.

When reducing the doorway, the frequent dynamic loads acting on the door are taken into account. To prevent the structure from becoming loose, the timber is attached to the wall as often as possible.

After you have managed to lower the door opening with timber, the question arises of how to close the space from above. The easiest way is to cover it with plasterboard, plywood or chipboard. A small gap is hidden with wide platbands. Before finishing, the cracks are filled with foam.

The advantage of this method is the ease of installation of the timber. The downside is the installation limitation. In humid rooms, the wooden frame becomes deformed and cracks due to temperature changes. The method is not suitable for the bathroom and kitchen.

Reducing the span with plasterboard

To build up an interior doorway with plasterboard, on the installation side of the profile frame, clear the wall of various materials and treated with a primer.

Having taken measurements of the entrance opening, cut the guide profile into the required pieces. The upper lintel is fixed with hangers, and the side elements are fixed directly to the ends of the wall.
GKL sheets are screwed to the finished frame with self-tapping screws, maintaining a pitch of 150 mm;
The cracks are sealed with putty. The plasterboard structure is primed, and a metal perforated corner is glued to the corner joints.

Seal the opening above the door and along its width with plasterboard if the difference in size between the opening in the wall and the door frame does not exceed 100 mm. To fix the gypsum boards, a frame is made from a galvanized profile. The frame turns out to be quite weak and is easily deformed if there is a large gap when opening the sash. Plasterboard construction is best used for arched passage. To strengthen the gap between the profile and the ends of the wall, fill it with pieces of timber or polyurethane foam.

How to reduce a doorway with foam blocks?

Working with aerated concrete and foam blocks is easy. The material is not heavy and can be easily cut even with a regular hacksaw. Blocks are usually used to narrow passages in thick walls and panel houses.

It is easier to reduce the width of the door opening. The blocks are laid out in a column from the floor to the top crossbar. If it is additionally necessary to reduce the height of the passage, a lintel made of wooden beam. The gap is sealed with pieces of foam blocks.

The laying out of blocks begins from the floor. It is important to initially prepare a flat and durable surface. Pieces of reinforcement are embedded between the rows. One end is driven into the wall. This strengthens the structure. The rods will not allow the foam block pillar to move away from the wall.

Used as a mortar for laying blocks adhesive composition on a cement base. It is sold dry in bags and to prepare it, just add water and then mix well. The solution is applied to the blocks with a notched trowel.

The finished structure is impregnated with an antifungal compound, plastered, puttied or sheathed with plasterboard. After finishing, the door frame is installed.

Narrowing the opening with brickwork

When reducing a wide opening with bricks, the work requires similar construction actions as in the case of a foam block. The difference is heavy weight material. Instead of timber lintels, it is better to use metal corners.

They begin to build up a new doorway from the side, not forgetting to reinforce the rows. The masonry is carried out using a solution prepared from three parts sand and one part cement. Water is added until a homogeneous thick mass is obtained. The mortar is applied to the brick with a trowel.

How to reduce a passage with concrete walls?

To for new door To reduce the interior doorway with concrete walls, any of the considered methods will do. The best option is to use blocks. In a lived-in apartment, work begins with exposing the wall. Removal finishing materials will allow you to assess the condition of the concrete structure. If there are severe defects, the wall will have to be partially destroyed, and the resulting widened passage will have to be narrowed again.

To build up an interior doorway with blocks from above, the wall is partially destroyed to insert a lintel. If there was electrical wiring or other communications near the old door frame, they need to be moved.

How to widen a doorway?

To increase the doorway, you will have to remove part of the wall. You can widen the passage in concrete and brick partitions from 0.7 to 2 m. In an apartment on the first floor, they adhere to the recommended width of 1 m and carry out additional reinforcement of the structure. It is allowed to increase the height of the doorway up to 2.1 m.

Widening the passage in the wall begins with dismantling the door block. The sash is removed from its hinges. The box is cut with a hacksaw and removed with a pry bar. The expansion of the interior doorway is done to install a larger door. According to the dimensions of the new block, markings are drawn on the wall.

The excess area is removed in two ways:

Gentle. To cut openings, a grinder with a diamond wheel is used. There is a lot of dust, but the possibility of cracking the entire partition is excluded.

Aggressive. When removing pieces of the wall, a sledgehammer, hammer, chisel, or hammer drill is used. If you overdo it, you can damage the integrity of the entire partition.

An enlarged doorway must be strengthened. It is especially important to strengthen the pier where the old lintel is removed when the passage is expanded in height. The main methods of reinforcement are welding on the ends of the walls metal corners, channels, tires made of thick sheet steel or installation of tie beams with bolts.

Brick house

A feature of expanding a doorway in a brick wall is accuracy. In order not to disturb the masonry, it is better not to hit the partition with a sledgehammer. You can widen a doorway in a brick wall with a minimum amount of dust using a hammer and chisel. Bricks are knocked out one by one on the marked area. You can get the job done faster and get the smoothest edges possible by using a grinder, only after cutting there will be a lot of dust left.

The transfer of the block lintel is carried out by increasing the height of the old doorway. Additionally, the top masonry is reinforced with welded channels or tie beams.

Panel house

To expand an interior doorway in a concrete wall, use a grinder with a diamond blade in the same way. The panel is cut in turn on each side. If the diameter of the disk is not enough to cover the entire thickness of the concrete, slots are made on both sides of the partition.

You can expand the doorway of a concrete wall without dust using impact drill. Drill along the contour of the marking in frequent steps through holes, and only the reinforcement is cut with a grinder. Pieces of concrete can easily break off with a sledgehammer. If it is necessary to increase the height of the passage in a concrete wall, the old lintel is similarly dismantled.

Large openings are widened in squares, removing sections of the concrete panel from bottom to top. The ends are reinforced with a frame, welding on sheet steel tires or metal corners.

When changing the dimensions of the passage in the interior partition, it is important to carefully carry out the dismantling work and install a reliable new design and coordinate the redevelopment with the BTI.

Hello. We bought a house for self-finishing; in the doorways, the fittings play the role of lintels. But since the height of the doorways turned out to be insufficient for manufacturing standard doors with the box, they suggested cutting off the reinforcement to increase the height of the opening. That's what we did, but now I'm afraid the wall will fall without a lintel. wall of brickwork. Professional opinion is needed.

Maybe it will fall. maybe not...

Do we now need to re-make the jumpers? And what is the least labor-intensive way?

Hello. If the masonry is not fresh, if a NORMAL mortar was used and when enlarging the opening, the work was carried out carefully (without fanaticism using a sledgehammer, jackhammer, etc.), then most likely nothing will happen to the wall. If for personal peace, then you can arrange primitive pseudo-jumpers. The simplest solution is to use reinforcement (the number of rods depends on the thickness of your walls). At the very top of the vertical of the enlarged opening, drill HORIZONTAL holes with a depth of 105 mm on one side and 205 mm on the other. The diameter of the holes corresponds to the diameter of the fittings + reserve. When drilling, it is important to maintain the alignment of opposite holes. Cut a piece of reinforcement 200 mm longer than the width of the opening. Insert the reinforcement into a deep hole, insert it into the hole in the opposite slope and push it 100 mm. We treat the ceiling part of the opening with a deep penetration primer and “throw it in” with cement-sand mortar. Good luck.

Sergey suggested a good option I’ll add one more, if the height of the opening is set to zero, take reinforcement with a diameter of 20 mm and a length 20 cm longer than the opening - 2 pieces, use a grinder to cut a brick measuring 2.5 cm by 2.5 cm to the length of the rod flush with the edge of the opening, do this operation on both sides and insert reinforcement on the sides and plaster. As a result, the rods should be flush with the opening, then you can sleep peacefully

Good afternoon. Find a good welder. And let him frame the opening for you from the corner 63–75, enough for the eyes. Naturally with tension plates. It’s quick, not labor-intensive, and most importantly, don’t disturb the walls again.

On both sides above the opening, place corners below the brick by raking along the sides 10 centimeters on each side. It will hold

Doors are one of the few types of joinery that does not forgive mistakes. If you took the dimensions incorrectly or cut the parts at the wrong angle, that’s it, you won’t be able to correct the dimensions, you’ll have to redo everything all over again and use new materials. If the sawing angle does not match, then sealing the resulting gap with sealant is useless. It may become invisible (although this is unlikely), but the strength of the structure will be significantly reduced. The individual elements of the box will not touch over the entire surface, but only at a few points. Accordingly, the load on the bars increases significantly, such a door will not last long. Moreover, you have to use the door very often and with varying efforts.

What we mean is that all work on assembling the door frame must be done very carefully and carefully. The technological gaps between the blade and the frame, the threshold and the floor are 2–3 millimeters; with the same accuracy it is necessary not only to measure, but also to cut off all individual workpieces and make precise allowances for the width of the cut.

You must know your instrument and its " specifications" The tool must be sharp and in good working order, and the hand must be “firm and confident.” We strongly recommend that all cuts be made with an electric saw with a rotating table.

Why not in a miter box? The answer is simple. If you use a miter box, then we can say with great confidence that you rarely make cuts, otherwise you would have bought an electric saw long ago. And since you rarely trim materials at an angle, you don’t have enough practice.

How to take measurements

First measure the doorway. Standard door leaf sizes are 2000 mm in height and 900 mm, 800 mm and 700 mm in width. The internal dimensions of the door frame increase by 3 mm around the entire perimeter (technological gap), the external dimensions of the frame are larger than the dimensions of the door leaves by 70 mm. This is the standard thickness of the box slats. If your slats are of a different size, then the external dimensions of the door frame will also change. And the gaps between the doorway and the frame must be at least three centimeters.

Now you can check if your doors fit the doorway. If not, you will have to either expand or reduce the doorway. This is the worst option; the dimensions of the doorways must be carefully monitored at the stage of assembling the bathhouse frame.

Another important point in size - the gap between the door frame and the floor. Depending on the specific installation location of the door, this gap is regulated by the provisions of SNiP 41–01–2003.

Set of rules. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning

The gap varies within 10÷15 millimeters and should provide the minimum required air exchange rate for each room. Any natural ventilation of premises works on the principle of supply and exhaust. If there is no influx fresh air, then, of course, there will be no exhaust hood.

Some owners, in order to save heat in the premises, want to install doors without a ventilation gap; this option is possible for bathhouses; no one is going to spend the night in them. But here inexperienced builders can create problems for themselves. The minimum gap between the door leaf and the floor within 1÷2 mm can cause them to jam or make it difficult to open/close. The fact is that flooring in bathhouses it rarely has such horizontal accuracy. To avoid problems with the door leaf and not to trim it after installation, you need to measure the floor level at the corners of the frame.

This is quite difficult to do; we will tell you in detail about two methods.

Using a hydraulic level. Very carefully place two marks on the doorway on both sides. The distance from the marks to the floor level is approximately 20÷30 centimeters. Using an accurate ruler, measure the distance from the floor to the marks you made. In most cases, the discrepancy will be at least 2÷3 millimeters. This must be taken into account during the manufacture of the vertical sides of the frame, and the minimum gap between the door leaf and the floor will increase by the amount of the discrepancy between the horizontal floor. In one position it will be, for example, two millimeters, and in the opposite place it will increase to 4 ÷ 5 mm. If you do not take into account the floor level, then the door frame may not open completely at all or will open with a lot of “creaking”. You will have to remove and cut the canvas, and this is extremely undesirable.
Using a laser level. Align the laser beam exactly horizontally at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the floor level. Using a ruler (preferably on a square), take measurements at the corners of the doorway; take into account the violation of the floor height when making the box. This method is much simpler, measurements are made faster, but under one condition - you have a rather expensive device.

Door frames can be with or without a threshold. With a threshold, doors are often installed as entrance doors and rarely as interior doors; without a threshold, doors are installed only as interior doors.

Door frame prices

door frame

Assembling a door frame without a threshold

Let's start with the easier option. Initial data: the material for making the boxes is profiled timber made from natural wood. For MDF doors, the technology is almost no different.

Step 1. Bring door elements into the room.

Very important. Never place them near heating appliances, you do not need to dry them, you need the wood to gain equilibrium moisture content and stabilize its linear dimensions!

What is equilibrium humidity? We need to dwell on this topic a little; it concerns not only door frames, but all wood products. Wood has two humidity indicators: absolute and relative, they depend on various conditions and processing technologies. But all types of wood have a sorption effect - the ability to absorb moisture from the air. Initially, the humidity can be at least zero; when it enters the room, the humidity rises to the equilibrium state under the given specific conditions. If the products were stored in a warehouse in humid conditions, the doors will dry out a little; if they were stored in very dry conditions, the doors will pick up moisture until they reach equilibrium. We hope that this is clear and now you will not believe advertising claiming that the humidity of their products is 8-10%. Such humidity may be present at the exit from chamber or vacuum drying, but over time the tree will inevitably take on water and increase its performance.

Step 2. Check the height and width of the openings, making sure that the box will fit into them with a gap of approximately 3 centimeters. Hydraulic level or laser level find out the horizontality of the flooring at the corners of the doorway.

Step 3. Use a circular saw with a turntable to trim the box blanks - they may have been damaged during transportation or storage. You can cut with a regular hacksaw, but there is a high probability of veneer peeling. If you still have to work hand tools, then you need to cut the workpieces from the veneer side, let the chips be on the invisible side of the beams. It is better to use a special hacksaw with fine teeth or a hacksaw for metal.

Step 4. Mark the top of the box. To do this, place a block on top of the door leaf and make marks with a gap of 2–3 millimeters. For a template along the gaps, you can use packaging cardboard; it is just the right thickness. Marks can also be made with a pencil, but it must have a very sharp end. It is better to cut the workpiece later; first you should install the hinges on the door frame.

Step 5. Place the door leaf on its side in vertical position. You can rest it against the walls or make a simple device to hold it in the desired position. Nail two spacers onto a piece of board at an angle at a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the door leaf. To prevent the possibility of damage to the corners of the blade, place a piece of soft cloth on the device. The device is very simple; cutting in hinges with it is much more convenient.

Step 6. Measure the location of the loops.

It is recommended to place them at a distance of 20 centimeters from the bottom and top of the canvas. But make a specific decision yourself, it all depends on the characteristics of the door leaf. The main thing is that where the hinges are installed, the sidewalls of the canvas are as strong as possible. Measure twenty centimeters at the top and bottom of the canvas, attach the loops to the marks and make marks along their length.

Step 7 Now you need to mark the position of the hinges on the door frame.

To ensure that they match exactly, place one of the frame boards on the side of the door and measure the gap between the floor and the leaf at the bottom. It is recommended to do it within 10 millimeters.

Important. If you want to have a minimal gap between the door and the floor, then you need to take into account the difference in floor height at the corners of the opening. Using a sharp pencil or a construction knife, make notches for the location of the hinges on the board of the box. On the vertical bars, be sure to make a difference in the height of the floor, otherwise one of them will either sag or not fit into its proper place. Keep track of which corner of the doorway the floor is higher from; on this side of the door frame, the side board should be shorter by the same amount.

Step 8 Cut the door frame boards on the machine according to the marks made. If your door boards are veneered with natural veneer, problems may arise during sawing. Natural veneer has a thickness of up to 1 mm, with the same slope the board will rest against the guide during cutting. Use a sharp chisel to carefully remove a strip of rolled veneer from the back of the board. It is not necessary for the entire length, only in places it has washed down. This is the only way to guarantee a perfect cut and the tightest possible fit of the individual elements of the box.

Step 9. Saw two side and one transverse blanks of the door frame at an angle of 45°. We remind you once again - check the dimensions several times; if the box is too short, you will have to throw it away and buy new materials.

Step 10 Install the hinges, they should hang with the manufacturer's logo facing up. Place the loops exactly along the notches made earlier on the block and trace the outline. You can select the material for the loops using a manual milling machine or an ordinary chisel.

Use a chisel to cut out holes for the hinge

If you have a hand cutter, great. By the way, it will always come in handy during the construction of a bathhouse, and not just a bathhouse. Set the opening width on the machine according to the width of the loop and the depth according to the thickness of the loop. Place the machine on the board of the box and mill the hinge seat according to the marks. Remove the roundness in the corners with a chisel. Perform the work carefully, do not allow the material to crack.

Video - Milling for a loop

Working with a chisel is somewhat more difficult. First, you need to use a chisel to cut out grooves along the drawn contour, approximately equal to the thickness of the loop. Then carefully begin selecting material for the loop. If you have a box made of MDF, then the work is somewhat easier. If the box is from natural wood, then pay attention to the direction of the fibers. Never use a chisel against the grain; you will always end up with deep nicks or cracks. The first layer of wood is removed by tapping it with milk on a chisel; more precise adjustments must be done manually. The chisel must be sharp; while working, watch the angle of inclination of the tool. If the loop sinks a little into the canvas, there is nothing to worry about. The main thing is that it does not protrude, as this may prevent the door from closing. The loop must fit into the socket with little force, otherwise a strip of material will be visible.

Step 11 Before screwing the hinges to the box, drill holes in the fastening areas with a drill with a smaller diameter than the diameter of the screws. This technique will prevent cracking of the box board.

Hinge Attachment

Step 12 To ensure that the heads of the screws with which the door frame will be attached to the wall are not visible on the door frame, you need to make a recess for their heads under the hinges. Take a wood drill of the appropriate diameter and drill holes for the countersunk holes on the hinge sockets made. You have already drilled holes for the screws, this will help you choose a place for a large screw or dowel so that its head does not fall under the screws. The holes for screws or dowels should be located exactly in the middle of the box board.

Step 13 Assemble all the elements of the box together. Self-tapping screws should enter at an angle of 90° to the cut surface. Make sure that they do not overlap the technological grooves of the telescopic box. During assembly, align the parts accurately, do not allow mutual displacement, then it is very difficult to correct this displacement. To make the connection easier, you can first drill holes of a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the screw.

Important. When assembling parts, press them with maximum force. The fact is that the self-tapping screw can, before starting to screw into the second part of the box, turn a little in the first - a gap will form between them.

The box is assembled, now it needs to be installed in the doorway. The work is very important and precise, we will tell you how best to do it.

Door leaf prices

door leaf

Installing a frame in a doorway

Step 1. Carefully place the box in the doorway, temporarily securing it with pieces of foam or packing cardboard. Using a level, check the verticality of the box on the side where the hinges are attached. To firmly install the box level and adjust the gaps, wedges will be needed. They can be cut from waste box bars on a machine at various angles.

Step 2. Install wedges under the hinges; dowels or mounting screws will be placed in these places. Additionally, drive one wedge into each top corner. To prevent the box from moving during wedging, you need to drive two wedges on opposite sides with the cut parts overlapping each other. Check the position of the box with a level, do not rush, accurately check the position of each element. The door frame should be flush with the outer wall of the room; the extensions will be installed on the other side. Make sure that the wedges do not protrude beyond the plane of the wall.

Step 3. Fasten the box through the holes made for the screws in the hinge locations.

Very important. There must be wedges next to these screws. Otherwise, the box will become deformed when the screw is tightened. The pretend side of the box has not yet been exposed, but is only slightly fixed in the wall.

They install the door side after hanging the doors; in this way, maximum dimensional accuracy is ensured. When aligning the side of the box, constantly check the horizontal position of the top jumper. If you have correctly taken into account the problems with the horizontal floor in different angles doorway - the horizontal part will lie in the correct position.

Step 4. To make the frame elements more stable, you need to partially foam them when hanging the door leaf.

Before this, the surfaces should be cleaned of dust and dirt and be sure to moisten with water using an ordinary sprayer. Most employees construction companies they neglect cleaning and wetting surfaces, but in vain. The adhesion coefficient of foam to wet surfaces increases by an order of magnitude. Keep this in mind. Foam the front part of the box only in one or two places; it will still have to be moved.

Step 5. Attach hinges, latches or locks to the door leaf. The installation algorithm depends on the specific type of fittings. While you were doing this work, the foam on the door frame has dried, you can hang the door leaf to it.

Step 6. Place a lining of the required thickness under the door leaf and attach first the upper and then the lower hinges of the door to the frame. Close the door and finally use wedges to expose the front part of the frame. Everything is fine - foam the door frame around the entire perimeter.

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Video - Assembling a door frame without a threshold

Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Now it’s worth considering the process of assembling a door frame with a threshold. For variety, we will connect the elements of the box not at an angle of 45°, as in the case described above, but at an angle of 90°. We do this on purpose in the hope that extra knowledge will not hurt anyone.

In addition, such a connection of door frame elements is considered more durable. If in the first case the length of the screws was limited by the thickness of the corner joint, now these restrictions are removed; the screw can enter the body of the bar by 2–3 centimeters. A stronger connection increases the stability of the door frame threshold, and it can be subject to significant forces.

Checking the condition of the doorway, checking the floor level in the corners, taking dimensions, preparing places for installing hinges and drilling for screws to secure the frame is no different from assembling a door frame without a threshold. And then the differences begin.

Step 1. Saw off the top horizontal bar of the box. Its length should be equal to the width of the door leaf plus 6 millimeters for gaps on both sides of the frame. You need to make two such blanks - one is used under the door threshold.

Step 2. On the vertical bars of the box, you need to remove the protruding thrust quarter. Keep in mind that the clean size of the vertical posts should be equal to the height of the door leaf plus 6 mm for gaps on both sides. In addition, the left and right vertical posts of the door frame must take into account the difference in floor height at the corners of the doorway. We have already described all technological operations in the first example; there is no point in repeating them.

To remove a quarter, attach the horizontal part to the end of the vertical post of the box and mark its width. Take measurements with maximum accuracy, do not allow any gaps to appear in the connection. No matter how you fix them later, a true master will always see the shortcomings. Carefully file the protruding quarter along the marked line; the depth of the cut should be equal to the height of the quarter. Use only a fine-toothed hacksaw; the tool, as always, must be in good condition.

Step 3. Remove a quarter from the end of the vertical bars with a chisel. Do the work very carefully. The plane of the block after removal should be perfectly flat across its entire width. Hold the chisel correctly while working. It has a flat bottom part, and the top is sharpened at an angle. The top plane should always be visible, otherwise the chisel will spontaneously cut into the wood and you won’t get a smooth surface. This rule applies to all cases of working with a chisel. Do the same work on all sides of the door frame.

Step 4. Place the parts on a flat surface and connect the upper part of the door frame first. Before screwing in, you need to first drill holes in the parts that are slightly smaller in diameter than the diameter of the screws. This will eliminate the possibility of cracking or the appearance of a gap between the parts during connection.

Corner assembly diagram

Step 5. Before assembling the threshold, we advise you to check the compliance of its dimensions and the correct location. To do this, carefully place the assembled frame of the box, consisting of two vertical and one horizontal elements, on a flat area and put the door leaf in place. Mark the exact position of the hinges on the door leaf, check all the gaps around the perimeter of the door frame and door leaf. As long as there is no threshold, the vertical posts can be moved a little. Check the distances again, check that the threshold is made correctly and, if necessary, correct any mistakes; in this situation, you have the opportunity to slightly adjust the dimensions.

Installing a door frame - photo

Video - Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Pay special attention to the reliability of fixing the door frame on the side where the doors are hung. There is no point in increasing the number of dowels or screws; no more than two should be used. Why? Loads on the door frame from the door leaf are transmitted only through the hinges, which means that the frame should be secured in these places. No matter how many screws you put between the hinges, they won't work. Just drill extra and noticeable holes in the box. And the fastening hardware can be hidden under the hinges. The main thing is that these two hardware fit with maximum reliability. If the slightest wobbles are detected, eliminate them immediately, do not hope that the foam will withstand. Only unscrupulous or incompetent builders can do this. The foam holds lateral forces well, but does almost no compression at all, always remember this.

Don't be upset if some of the screws were slightly longer than required and appeared on the back of the box. This does not affect the strength of the fasteners or the appearance of the door. The main thing is that the frame does not crack.

If you have a door frame made of natural wood, then the screws should be used with large pitches, if made of MDF - with small pitches.

Video - Revolutionary installation system for door frames of any type

Video - How to properly assemble a door frame

If the doorway is significantly widened, reinforcement installation is required

Valid parameters

To prevent this, it is important to know what restrictions exist for expanding the opening of an entrance or interior door. For most designs, the standard dimensions are 70-80 cm. Most often, a change in these values is due to the purchase of a door block of the wrong size.

The maximum permissible openings are 200 cm wide and 210 cm high. It is advisable not to build them in load-bearing structures. An exception may be the entrance door opening, but in this case it should be further strengthened.

Scheme of strengthening an opening in a load-bearing wall with a lintel made of channels

Tools for work

To increase the doorway in modern construction, various tools and devices can be used. There are several ways to dismantle excess wall:

Rough method. In this case, tools such as a sledgehammer, hammer drill, jackhammer and the like are used. In this case, it is necessary to first outline the contours and use tools to knock off the excess. Of course, the process is very labor-intensive, and there is another threat here - the formation of microcracks due to high impact loads. This may require additional finishing work and generally impairs the strength of the wall structure.
Dry cutting. For this purpose, such a familiar tool as a grinder is used. With its help, you can easily cut out the desired shape of the contours. It also copes with reinforcement. The downside is that you have to cut on both sides, and it’s not always possible to match the cuts exactly. In addition, dry cutting leads to the formation of a large amount of dust and quickly wears out the diamond blade.
Wet cutting. For this purpose, you can use a spray bottle and irrigate the work surface while working with an angle grinder, but a more rational method would be to use a special construction cutter. It is equipped with a large diamond blade and a water container. With its help, you can cut an opening of the required size in one step and at the same time with minimal contamination. True, the cost of such equipment is considerable.

Basic methods of dismantling part of a wall in an opening

When carrying out such work, be sure to use personal protective equipment: goggles and a respirator, they will protect you from dust and small fragments.

Panel house

Most often there is a need to expand the doorway in a panel house. In high-rise buildings, this issue is quite problematic, since in addition to a large amount of construction waste, there is also a negative reaction from neighbors to such noisy repair work. That is why it is necessary to reduce the time of dismantling the structure as much as possible. The best option, affordable, is a grinder.

First you need to completely remove the old door frame from the opening. The supporting wooden beams are also dismantled. Next, you need to make the appropriate measurements and outline the contours of the desired passage dimensions.

When expanding an opening in a panel house, an important aspect is temporary strengthening of the structure

Cutting is carried out along the intended contour, first on one side of the room, and then on the other. The most problematic areas are the exit of the reinforcement. After the metal bars are cut, you can take a sledgehammer and remove excess concrete. If the opening area is large, you need to work in squares. To do this, the wall is divided into sections and additional lines are cut. Dismantling is done from top to bottom so that the upper tiers do not fall on you during the work process.

Brick house

The process of expanding an opening in a brick wall is carried out somewhat differently. It is important to be careful here, since excessive impact loads can lead to the destruction of the entire masonry. It is best to perform this operation in the following sequence:

Outline the contours of the future opening.
If necessary, move the jumper. You can use a metal channel as reinforcement.
You need to remove excess bricks one by one. To begin with, the mortar is cleaned from the seams as much as possible. Then use a hammer drill, chisel, or chisel to break the brick into small pieces.
If the work area is large, you can clean the outline of the opening and knock out the inside of the masonry with a sledgehammer.
The extreme contours are cut off with a grinder. For arched vaults, you initially need to clear the edges of the bricks around the perimeter.

When expanding an opening in a brick wall, a lintel must be used to strengthen it

If you need to make a wide entrance opening in a brick house, you will additionally need to cut off the reinforcement.

After rough work, check the integrity of the masonry and, if necessary, plaster cracks and cracked seams.

Height increase

In addition to expanding the doorway in the load-bearing wall, it may also be necessary to increase its height. In this case, you cannot do without moving the horizontal jumper. Without it, the entire load will fall on the fragile door structure, which can lead to the collapse of the wall.

To safely increase the height of the opening, you need to install a jumper

When my parents were building a house and planning interior decoration, they calculated the level of finishing flooring in advance, and it met the standards. This was done for the purpose of pre-ordering hinged interior wooden doors made from natural oak.

Despite the fact that doors with standard dimensions were chosen: 80 cm wide and 200 cm high, we had to wait four long months for the order to be completed.

By the time the order was ready and the doors were delivered, the finished laminate floor had already been laid on both floors of the house, and it turned out that the height of the doorways in the house was different.

On the second floor, she found herself right under the 200 cm high door; there were three openings in total. And on the first floor, eight doors did not fit in height: doorways were five centimeters higher than the required level for installing door frames!

The house of accomplished adults could not remain with huge gaps under the doors; it was unacceptable. You understand that we were talking about quite large losses.

Then the master who came to install the doors suggested non-standard solution, which negated the problem. He secured it to the door lintels (the upper horizontal parts of the door frames) wooden structures from the same beams, processed on the outside and painted “for finishing”, that came with the doors “in reserve”.

Then I attached shaped “plates” to the extended jumpers and rubber seals. Thus, the master built up the frames from top to bottom and hid the difference in height (gap) between the door leaf and the lintel.

The slopes of the boxes were not cut to height, so there were no problems with them: on the second floor they are shorter, and on the first floor they are longer.

This ingenious and simple solution of the master saved the situation. I didn't have to order new doors! The result was a kind of wooden mat for door panels that harmoniously fit into the interior of the house. None of the visitors have such doors.

There are many guests in the house, the vast majority of them never noticed that the height of the doorways on the first and second floors is different. And those who saw the difference asked to tell us how they could make such interesting doors.

This is such a simple miracle. I'm attaching photos to show how they look door frames and doors in the parents' house.

But our advice to you: before ordering doors, it’s better to finish the floor so that you know exactly the size of the openings. Try to guess and determine which doorways and doors are on which floor?

Every person before starting a renovation thinks:

Where to start and what can you save on?
How to replace doors if the openings are non-standard?
What to do if you don’t have super professional equipment?
What should the private sector do with its non-standard sizes?

Let's start with the fact that any door block consists of two parts - the so-called “frame” (lutki) and the door leaf. The box is placed “tightly” in the opening. A canvas opens from inside the box, which can be glazed or solid (solid). Boxes come with a threshold and without a threshold. This affects overall dimensions block. Doors differ in their action (opening-closing) by " ". Standard dimensions of door blocks assembled with a threshold depending on the thickness of the racks: 650 × 2050 mm (660 × 2060) for bathroom units: 750 × 2050 mm (760 × 2060) for kitchen: 850×2050 mm (860×2050) for living quarters, etc. There are many types of doors. Among wooden doors, the most common type is a frame structure, and boards, plywood, fiberboard, and glass are used as the internal material. Recently, doors with laminated coatings, including those imitating the texture of natural wood, have become increasingly used, so to save money, I would advise buying just such doors. These doors can be converted to almost any size.

You need to start by measuring the opening where the block will be installed. If the opening is currently occupied by an old door block, then in order to remove exact dimensions, it is necessary to remove the casing that is nailed along the edge. Then we measure the width from brick to brick (the outer size of the box should be 2-5 cm smaller than the size of the opening), measure the height from the finished floor to the lintel-beam (the outer height of the box should be at least 1 cm less than the opening). But it happens, and in private houses it is often and densely, that the finished opening does not fit in size and it is simply impossible to expand it. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the door leaf by reducing the size.

This is not as difficult to do as it might seem at first glance. To do this, you need to have a small arsenal of power tools:

Manual frezer.
Cylindrical cutter.
Carpentry clamps.
Hand grinder.
Screwdriver.

door trim

Now everything is in order.

Thanks to this, it is possible to adjust standard size canvases to smaller, non-standard ones. This makes it possible to fill any openings.
I think that solid wood doors (entirely wooden) can also be remodeled within reason.

Next, I will tell you how you can change the door block without removing the old frame (loot) because... There are times when it is simply impossible to dismantle, because the whole opening may collapse due to the specifics of the construction, mainly - this applies to old private houses, less often to old apartments. You can, of course, strengthen the above-door part of the opening with a profile before dismantling, but this will require additional labor, costs and, of course, unsafe.

We start with measurements.
We measure the internal size of the old box in width: let's say 1070 mm minus 30-40 mm for accurate installation of the new box, if the old one is not level. In height, the internal size of the box from top to floor: let’s say 2000 mm minus 20 mm. If there is a threshold, then we cut it out and remove it because We don't need him. We get the outer size of the new one - 1980x1030 mm, which we will install.

The door block for this size of the opening (1980×1030 mm) should be one and a half, i.e. one door is wider and the other is smaller. For example, 600 mm and 380 mm are the width of the canvases, taking into account the thickness of the two frame posts and the gap between the doors - this is 4-6 mm, as well as a 30-50 mm gap for the polyurethane foam. This size may vary depending on the thickness of the box being inserted. And the door height is 1930 mm.

I have already written above how to reduce door panels.

As you can see, the old box (loot) is not visible. WITH inside a new standard (100 mm) box, as a rule, does not overlap the old one in width. Therefore, it is necessary to increase the width of the new frame around the perimeter using an additional expansion strip, which is sold in any door showroom. I usually use this one.
Universal additional panel (MDF). Dimensions: Length: 2070 mm. Width: 120 mm. Thickness: 10 mm.

When the polyurethane foam has dried after installation (preferably the next day) and the painting work has been completed, both sides of the block
and cash is pouring in. After which appearance It is guaranteed that no one will think that there were once old doors.

There are also openings of non-standard sizes, for example, the width is too small for a double-hollow or one-and-a-half door, but too large for a single-floor door. In such cases, you can do door-book, those. folding door.

And yet, it happens that a standard 900 mm door does not open conveniently in a narrow corridor.
This is not difficult to do.
✓ Take a door 900 mm wide, measure 600 mm (if less, it will not be convenient to pass through).
✓ Mode with a hacksaw for wood, but in such a way that the blade does not fly out, those. We cut through one side of the door, turn it over - the other is in flight mode.
In general, we do one door, two doors.
Since the doors are hollow inside, it is necessary to insert lengthwise bars with PVA glue measuring 27x27 mm (27x40 mm, 27x45 mm are possible).

But 27 mm for doors with a thickness of 35 mm the size remains unchanged. Otherwise, you will not insert the block if it measures 30x40 mm. Then, when the glue dries after about 12 hours at an air temperature of +20 ° C, you need to sand the end a little and stick on the decor (edge) to match the color of the door. Using a hot iron, press the edge to the end of the door, cut it off and clean it. When the canvases are ready, we connect them together using canopies. We simply divided one door by width - 900 mm by 600 mm and 297 mm.

What to do if a door block with a redesigned door of 600 mm and 297 mm is not enough to fill the opening. Then you just need to select a standard door size and a self-made half from an additionally purchased blank or glazed panel. The latter will be a little more difficult because... You will have to make two cuts because of the glass. Deaf is easier.

I measured out how much I needed and cut it off. In principle, everything is the same as what I told you about earlier: they cut it off, inserted a block, sanded it and glued the edge on. The sizes of the two doors can be very different: 600 mm and 400 mm; 700 mm and 400 mm to infinity.
Here's another example of a repurposed laminated door block. This block was made due to the dimensions not meeting the standard.
Before the alteration, two door leaves were purchased, which were the same in width (600 mm).
I just reduced one door by 200 mm on both sides. 100 mm on each side.
Well, that's all on this topic.
Write in the comments and contact the “” section with any questions - I will always answer.
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