Why a damp cellar and what to do. How to effectively dry the cellar from moisture and condensation? Internal waterproofing device

Dampness in the basement is an unpleasant phenomenon. What to do if it appears? Before you begin to deal with the problem, you need to find out the cause of the appearance of moisture in the house. Understanding the cause will help you choose effective methods and for a long time, and maybe forever get rid of such a nuisance as wet surfaces in the room.

Why is dampness dangerous?

Why is it necessary to remove excess moisture from the premises? The appearance of moisture in the basement can lead to unpleasant phenomena that are difficult to get rid of.. Condensation on surfaces causes the following effects:

the appearance of mold and fungus;
violation of the temperature and humidity conditions of the premises;
violation of the operating conditions of building structures, which leads to destruction in the foundation and other load-bearing elements;
the appearance in the premises of various microorganisms that are dangerous to humans and lead to serious diseases;
wetting of walls and ceilings, violation of interior decoration.

Causes of the problem

Mold in the basement appears as a result of dampness

There are several reasons why condensation may occur on the ceiling, floor and walls of the basement:

Basement ventilation problems. This can be caused by errors at the design or construction stage. Sometimes it happens that the ventilation ducts provided for by the norms are cut by incorrectly laid floor slabs or clogged with construction debris. The lack of normal ventilation leads to the fact that during cold weather, condensation forms in the basement, which is warm compared to the outside air, and the windows sweat.
Level change ground water. This problem is especially relevant in the spring, when the snow begins to melt actively, and the soil is oversaturated with moisture. The issue must be taken into account at the design stage and provide drainage system and reliable basement waterproofing. An increase in water in the soil leads to the fact that puddles appear on the floor. Their depth depends on the extent of the problem.
Why does such a phenomenon occur? The answer to the question will be - a violation of the foundation construction technology. If during construction no attention was paid to the vertical waterproofing of the basement walls, then during operation they inside drops of moisture will appear.

All these reasons why dampness appears in the basement are associated with the neglect of technology at the construction stage of the building.

Ways to fight

To understand what to do with dampness, it is necessary to correctly determine the reason why surfaces get wet. Further actions aimed at getting rid of excess moisture depend on its source. The cause can be determined by the location of the moisture.

if droplets form on the ceiling and walls - the reason is insufficient ventilation;
the formation of liquid drops only on the walls - the lack of vertical waterproofing of the basement walls;
in the presence of puddles on the floor - the reason is flooding with groundwater.

Further steps are taken depending on the source of the problem.

Insufficient ventilation

If condensation has formed due to insufficient air exchange in the room, it can be removed by organizing additional ventilation. The same situation is relevant for the occurrence of dampness in the attic. This room also heats up, but at the same time it is in direct contact with the external environment.

Scheme of natural ventilation of the cellar

The contact of warm air with cold surfaces is the main and only reason why condensation forms. With sufficient air exchange in the basement or in the attic of the house, the air heated from the interior is cooled. Condensation does not form.

Ventilation in the basement of a private house or in the attic can be done in two ways:

natural;
forced.

Natural includes air and ventilation ducts. According to the norms, the total area of the vents must be at least one four hundredth of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Forced means the use of special equipment, the installation of which will require serious financial costs. The method is relevant only for large rooms.

To remove condensation on the ceiling and walls in the basement or in the attic, you must perform the following measures:

Scheme forced ventilation in the cellar

Thermal insulation of engineering networks. The basement has plumbing and sewer pipes, the temperature of the liquid in which is higher than in the room. This causes condensation to form on their surface. To get rid of heat losses, it is necessary to make reliable thermal insulation protection for pipes that sweat precisely because of heat leakage into a cold space. Thermal insulation measures can be performed using special materials. Manufacturers mineral wool, polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam produce special products that are convenient to put on pipes. Efficient materials allow you to remove heat leaks and get rid of the reason why the pipes sweat.
To eliminate dampness in the attic or in the basement of the house and the appearance of drops of moisture on the ceiling or walls, ventilation ducts or pipes are installed. After the construction of the house is completed, it is not possible to place ventilation ducts in the walls, so they are attached to vertical structures. To get rid of dampness on the ceiling and other surfaces, two pipes are provided in the room - supply and exhaust. They need to be done in different corners of the room, located at different heights from the floor.

After the reason why condensation appears in the attic or basement has been eliminated, the room is dehumidified.

Insufficient waterproofing

If the walls of the basement of the house (without a ceiling) are sweating, the reason is capillary moisture. You can get rid of it in one of the following ways:

Pasting waterproofing materials. They are presented on the construction market mainly by roofing material, linochrome and hydroisol. They are made on the basis of a canvas impregnated with bitumen. The gluing process is a rather labor-intensive undertaking. It is better to entrust such work to professionals.
You can protect the walls of the basement from moisture at home using bituminous mastic. In addition to it, they use polymer compositions and synthetic resins. The advantage of the method is the ability to do the work with your own hands. Minus - insufficient degree of protection. It is usually used together with pasting materials.
penetrating compounds. To get rid of capillary moisture, you can use compounds that penetrate concrete and increase its moisture resistance. The action is achieved by narrowing the pores in the structure. This method can be called highly effective, since not only the premises are protected, but also part of the supporting structure. The composition is able to penetrate to a greater thickness and prevent water damage to the foundation for many years.
Screens. This method is suitable for high pressure groundwater. Screens become clay castle, geotextile or concrete.

Work with any material is performed in the following sequence:

removal of finishes from the walls, their cleaning;
surface treatment with an antiseptic;
primer;
waterproofing walls and floors;
finishing;
a blind area around the perimeter of the building, if it is missing or damaged.
draining the basement space.

Groundwater level rise

Wet walls from behind high level water in the soil is the most serious problem for the home of the presented. If the condensate does not require external measures, then in this case it is necessary to dig out the foundations. It is recommended to make waterproofing in the following order:

excavation of the foundation;
drainage device around the perimeter of the building;
if necessary, strengthening the foundation;
performance of external waterproofing (the same materials are used as in the previous case);
performance of internal waterproofing;
backfilling;
blind area around the perimeter of the building;
dehumidification of the room.

Scheme of the construction of the basement waterproofing structure at a high pressure of the groundwater level

The method will require impressive financial and labor costs, but it will protect the foundations and basement from groundwater. The material is selected depending on the pressure of the water. Several methods can be used together, for example, penetrating compounds along with pasting waterproofing.

With the arrival of the cold season, homeowners with basements are faced with such a serious problem as the formation of dampness in them. The appearance of condensate on the ceiling and walls is a signal to take action. Urgent measures. This phenomenon can destroy things, food supplies, lead to the growth of moldy fungus, and become the culprit in the destruction of the entire structure of the building.

Causes of dampness

The trend towards accelerated construction has led to the fact that it is carried out in violation of time-tested technologies, on projects drawn up contrary to all existing norms. As a result, after a certain interval following the delivery of the object, moisture appears in the basement. Its effect on materials reduces their strength, shortens their service life, and forces them to spend additional funds on restoration work.

There can be several reasons for dampness in the cellar. In some cases, the source of moisture is clearly visible, and it is not difficult to remove it, in others, it is necessary to involve specialists with equipment to search for it.

Causes	Consequences
Lack of ventilation	Humidity is the first sign of insufficient inflow air masses to interior spaces. Its high content in the air leads to the formation of condensate. This happens if calculation errors were made and as a result there are not enough ventilation ducts or they are completely absent. Ventilation shafts are clogged with construction debris, which is often observed due to improperly laid slabs.
High primer location	With spring snowmelt and heavy heavy rains, the underground water level rises sharply. An improperly executed drainage system entails the accumulation of moisture near the walls and dampness in the basement. The presence of the first underground aquifer is a permanent phenomenon and plays a key role in laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account, otherwise the threat of flooding will always exist.
Capillary formation of dampness	Foundation masonry made in violation technological processes, leads to the appearance of microcracks through which moisture will seep. It gradually erodes the base, leading to the growth of mold, which can subsequently cause partial damage and even collapse. This can be caused by the lack of waterproofing on the floor or its damage.
Incorrect or insufficient insulation of the foundation	Temperature fluctuations, which are especially pronounced with the onset of cold weather, lead to the fact that the warm air inside the cellar, cooling sharply, causes condensation.
Incorrectly formed drainage system	The runoff from the roof must be diverted from the private house to the drainage network. The lack of slopes on the roof, above the windows and porch, the blind area around the building, as well as gutters and pipes becomes the culprit for the fact that water flows down next to the building, causing dampness in the basement.
Trees planted near the house	The reason for the erosion of the walls is provoked by the growth of the root system of plants that are too close to the structure.

Having appeared in the basement, dampness will not disappear by itself. The walls will gradually accumulate moisture and collapse. A moldy fungus is formed on them, which harms not only the structure of the building, but also human health, the changes will also affect the temperature regime.

The best ways to get rid

To find the source, carefully examine the cellar:

Moisture on the walls and ceiling indicates insufficient ventilation.
The appearance of puddles on the floor informs about the lack of drainage and elevated level ground water.
If the condensate appears only on the walls, then the foundation is poorly insulated.

If it was not possible to find out the reason, it is necessary to perform forced drying, using ventilation and special devices to maintain a certain temperature regime.

Condensation	Installation of ventilation	In opposite corners of the cellar, exhaust and supply pipes are built in at different levels. The first is under the ceiling, and the second is fixed almost at the floor - they both go outside. In a basement with a large area, a forced system is additionally installed, with which you can adjust the set temperature and humidity.
Capillary penetration of moisture	The level does not exceed 10%	Surfaces must be cleaned of mold, dried and treated with an antiseptic. From the inside of the basement, waterproof them and make the final finish.
Capillary penetration of moisture	Level from 30% and above	It is required to install a vertical waterproofing layer outside a private house with a mandatory blind area. Preparation of walls from the inside of the foundation with preliminary clearing of leaks, their sealing and priming, and subsequent application of a moisture-proofing compound.
Moisture penetration through the floor	The existing coating does not provide the proper level of tightness	The flooring or concrete screed is dismantled, the waterproofing is carefully studied. Found gaps are closed, the room is dried. A layer of sand or expanded clay with a thickness of at least 5 cm is poured onto the resulting base, roofing material is placed and a new coating is being installed.
Increased humidity in the cellar due to the high occurrence of groundwater	Requires constant pumping of liquid	If it is impossible to remove dampness inside the basement, then you need to dig a pit into which it will be collected, and subsequently remove it with a pump. To do this, the floor is made with a slope in the direction of this design.
The building is old and there are cracks in the foundation.	Building new walls	Foundation gaps are closed with rags soaked bituminous mastic, plastered and completely treated with a waterproofing compound. They build an additional wall inside the cellar, the thickness of which is ¼ brick.

The cause of increased humidity in the basement of a private house is plumbing and sewer communications. The temperature of their pipes is always much different from the temperature of the room, which causes the appearance of moisture and mold. In this case, thermal insulation is necessary.

Best working ways to deal with moisture and mold

There are a number of folk methods that have been proven over the years to dry out a damp basement when it is seasonally flooded. They will not help to completely eliminate the problem, but in an emergency they are effective.

1. Calcium chloride has the ability to absorb moisture in large quantities. Arranged cans with the substance will allow you to get rid of condensate. For an area of 8-9 m2, 1 kg is required.

2. Quicklime, sprinkled on the floor, will not only absorb excess moisture and dry the basement, but at the same time disinfect the air and destroy mold. For a medium-sized room, you need 4-5 kg. This method requires caution, since the vapors of the substance are poisonous. After processing, you need to perform ventilation.

3. Dried, calcined clay, laid out in the corners, cooling down, will absorb dampness. If necessary, it can be removed and reused.

4. Eliminate mold on the walls and ceiling of the cellar by washing it off with boric or acetic acid. For this, 20 ml of the composition is diluted in 0.5 l of water. Applied with a brush. To obtain a greater effect, washing should be repeated twice with a frequency of 2-3 days. Wash the surface after the first time.

5. If the affected area is extensive, then it is appropriate to treat the basement with diesel fuel, and then whiten it.

Fighting mold takes a long time and can take several years. Therefore, one must think about how to remove dampness when laying the foundation of a building.

If your basement is damp, then it is fraught with many problems that are not always easy to get rid of. Very often, due to excessive humidity, the insulation properties of floors and walls deteriorate, and the strength of materials also decreases. Even at the construction stage, work should be carried out to eliminate the likelihood of condensation in the room, since getting rid of dampness in the basement, otherwise, will not be so easy.

If you want to remove dampness from the basement or cellar, you must first find the cause of its appearance. Moisture can enter the basement from the street or simply condense on the inner surfaces of the walls and ceiling. Often the main source of dampness is obvious, but sometimes it is not so easy to find, and in such cases, homeowners hire specialists to find it. They determine the temperature and humidity in different places of the room, evaluate the tightness of the basement, and find places where air from the street enters.

Water usually enters the premises through microcracks and wall defects, as well as due to improperly installed utilities. If the basement is damp, then special attention should be paid to the blind area, which is probably not in the best condition. In addition, if trees grow near the foundation, then water can penetrate into the room due to their roots. High groundwater pressure should also be considered.

When the source of dampness is within

If dampness in the basement is formed due to condensate, then in order to remove it, it is necessary to carry out work on the installation of a high-quality ventilation system. As a rule, it is enough to use only two pipes (exhaust and supply), which should be placed in different corners of the room and at different levels.

Pipes in the basement require special attention.

In large basements, natural ventilation is often not enough. Therefore, you can do it yourself forced system. In this case, a controlled ventilation device is assumed, with the help of which at different times of the year it will be possible to install a certain temperature regime in the basement.

In cases where the basement is located water pipes, it is necessary to make them thermally insulated (it is best to use polystyrene foam or any other suitable material). Pipe insulation is also necessary if it is necessary to dry the basement in a short time.

It is necessary to carry out the procedure for draining the basement after the work to eliminate the source of dampness is completed.

When the source of dampness is outside

If you have determined that the source of dampness is precisely located outside, then several options for the problem should be considered: a high level of groundwater, precipitation, the so-called capillary rise of moisture.

The option of carrying out work will depend on the specific source of moisture, as well as on the level of moisture in the walls in the basement. When the humidity level inside the room is insignificant (no more than 10%), it is enough to do the following with your own hands:

remove old plaster, clean and rinse the walls;
treat them with antiseptic compounds;
install a high-quality waterproofing layer;
perform the finishing touches;
dry the room well.

In this case, you will have a dry basement for a long time. When the walls are significantly damp, additional work will be required, which will include the installation of an external waterproofing layer.

In addition, outside work includes:

preparatory work (cleaning, priming, strengthening the surface);
creation of a vertical waterproofing layer (any suitable materials can be used);
high-quality blind area.

Under certain circumstances, additional work may be required to get rid of the moisture in the room, as well as eliminate the cause of condensation.

If you have even the slightest doubt about the source of dampness or choice waterproofing material to eliminate it, you need to consult with specialists.

Cut-off (horizontal) waterproofing

If the formation of dampness and condensate in the basement occurs due to the capillary rise of moisture, then it is necessary to make high-quality horizontal waterproofing with your own hands. In this case, one of two methods of arranging an insulating layer can be used: using rolled or coated waterproofing.

Rolled waterproofing is required to overlap on the foundation. The material will fully repeat the shape of the surface, and will also provide a high level of insulation of the room. No additional coats are required, although some homeowners prefer to make 2-3 new coats so that they do not have to worry later.

Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation during construction.

Coating waterproofing must be applied on a horizontal surface. It is often recommended to make multiple coats to provide a high level of moisture protection. Modern mixtures, sold as coating waterproofing, penetrate into the structure of the material, filling all cracks and pores in it, which makes it possible to create a high-quality waterproof layer. Although the durability of such insulation is lower than that of rolled insulation.

Vertical waterproofing

Often, a horizontal waterproofing device is not enough, so many experts additionally recommend considering the option of creating a vertical waterproofing layer. Vertical waterproofing can be pasting, coating type, as well as screen or penetrating.

Pasting waterproofing is represented by materials made of film. This type of material is glued to the surface. If earlier roofing felt and roofing material acted as such materials, today they are gradually being replaced by more modern insulators that can provide long-term and high-quality protection. At the same time, doing such waterproofing is quite labor-intensive, so for work, if possible, it is best to hire specialists. Additionally, waterproofing of this type is protected with geotextile materials.
Coating waterproofing is arranged using mastics and special solutions. A few decades ago, people used the most common bitumen for coating waterproofing, but this did not allow them to get a completely dry basement. Today, innovative materials are on the market (for example, bituminous mastics, synthetic resins, polymer compounds, etc.), which are easy to apply with your own hands and can provide excellent surface waterproofing.
Penetrating waterproofing is presented today in the form cement mortar, which additionally add some modifiers. After the walls and ceiling of the basement are treated with such a solution, the pores of the material are significantly narrowed, as a result of which the water resistance of the structure increases several times. At the same time, there is no reduction in the vapor permeability of the surface. Such insulation is quite durable and of high quality.
Screen waterproofing is relevant only if groundwater actively acts on the basement walls from the outside. For the construction of an insulating layer of this type, as a rule, a clay castle is used. Of course, now on the market you can find more modern materials (for example, the same geotextiles or bentonite mats). By the way, bentonite, when saturated with water, will increase in size by 10-20 times, which will provide a high level of protection against moisture. It is one of the most effective waterproofing materials.

The choice of one or another type of waterproofing layer device is individual for each country house. Doing something without having the necessary experience is not worth it. If the exact cause of dampness in the basement is not clarified, installing an insulating layer will not solve the problem.

vertical waterproofing.

Forced dehumidification

If you were able to identify the source of dampness and eliminate it, then at the end of everything you need to perform the procedure for draining the basement. You can dry the basement in any way (using fire, natural or forced ventilation, special devices).

In any case, when the basement has been exposed to moisture for a long time, it needs to be dried to make it suitable for further use. Many people prefer special dehumidifiers for basements. These devices will help you get rid of dampness after waterproofing work. They can be used if necessary. For example, this is very important if you have a storage room for vegetables, a bathhouse, a sauna or any other room in your basement, due to the functions of which moisture may appear.

You don’t have to do anything - just turn on the dehumidifier and leave it running exactly until the humidity level in your basement returns to normal. Such devices allow you to dry the basement quickly and efficiently.

How to urgently dry a storage room and what to do to keep it always dry in the future

“My cellar wept. There are constant drops of water on the ceiling, the wooden hatch is wet through, the carrots and cabbage have long since rotted, the potatoes are still holding on,” a FORUMHOUSE participant writes. Syava_1.

A "weeping" cellar is always a big problem. How to dry it urgently and what to do to no longer face increased dampness? We tell what the participants of our portal do.

For high-quality storage of vegetables, the temperature in the cellar should not be higher than +5 degrees, the air should be clean and fresh, but without drafts.

BogAD Member FORUMHOUSE

The Russian scientist A. T. Bolotov wrote more than two centuries ago that there should be no damp and musty air in the room where vegetables are stored - the vegetables will rot. And at the same time, he notes that there should be no draft, because it will dry out our vegetables.

But you can’t overdry the cellar either, there is even data from observations by FORUMHOUSE participants of their cellars, which indicate that excess moisture is not as dangerous for storing vegetables as excessive dryness.

The humidity level for optimal storage of stocks should be 70-80%.

Having measured the temperature and relative humidity in the cellar with a thermometer and hygrometer, we bring them into line with the desired indicators (recommendations BogAD):

If it is cold in the cellar (the temperature in winter is below +2 0 C), we insulate the basement or work.
If it is too warm in the cellar (the temperature is above +5 0 C), we lower it by isolating the cellar area from heat sources. Provide adequate ventilation and isolate the area from heat sources.
A slight excess of relative humidity is corrected by ventilation.
With a significant excess of relative humidity (abundant condensate on the walls and ceiling), we make waterproofing, and then we are already engaged in ventilation.
If the air is musty - the ventilation system does not correspond to the area or is absent, we eliminate this omission.
If drafts walk in the cellar, ventilation system also needs modernization, it may be enough to simply add a damper to the inlet.

Based on the diagnosis that was made to the cellar, a work plan is drawn up. But there are situations when a stored crop needs emergency help, and there are several ways to provide it.

The picture on the left shows the cellar dehumidification scheme, which FORUMHOUSE participant DoctorBo I saw it in some book from Soviet times.

DoctorBo Member of FORUMHOUSE

The light bulb warms the air, it rises through the open basement hatch.

On the right picture - an improved, modernized scheme, in which the light bulb is located not under the hatch, but under the chimney. This scheme is better, especially when we are not dealing with a cellar, which is located under the building - then the air does not go into the house, but outside it.

Variants of this method, successfully tested by the participants of our portal:

A light bulb from the refrigerator is inserted directly into the pipe, 5-7 cm.
If the light bulb does not fit in the pipe.

Glebomater Member of FORUMHOUSE

Put a lampshade on the bottom of the pipe, there is a light bulb in it. The light bulb is on, heats the air in the lampshade, the draft starts to work.

Instead of a light bulb, you can use a candle (to avoid fire hazards, put the candle in a tin). It is better that the candle is as close to the floor as possible, and to improve traction, the exhaust pipe is lengthened by building a tin link on it.

A burning candle or light bulb accelerates air circulation, intensively ventilates the cellar. The musty atmosphere of the cellar is replaced fresh air, and in a few days the cellar is usually completely dried out.

If we use dry alcohol tablets instead of a candle or a light bulb, then we will get an additional advantage: alcohol combustion products have antiseptic properties.

Member of FORUMHOUSE topos proposes to involve the science of chemistry in the service of draining the cellar.

topos Member FORUMHOUSE

1 kg of dry calcium chloride takes 1.5 kg of water. Buy 50-100 kg. Downloading. A day later, you clean it, dry it (calcine it) and load it again. Merry work.

You can also use a good household dehumidifier (such as they drain pools), a heat gun. Or put an ordinary oil cellar in the center of the cellar - in this case, drying will be carried out due to thermal radiation. But this process is long and expensive (it may take several weeks of continuous operation of the device). Most importantly, without proper ventilation of the cellar, the desired effect with the help of a heater can hardly be achieved.

topos

To drive air with an electric heater is a stupid thing when the ground is wet, the air is moist and there is no ventilation. You will create a regular bath. You need exhaust ventilation with air intake near the basement floor.

For storage of supplies in the cellar, weak ventilation will be sufficient. Strong ventilation is more likely to hurt.

Jeeper FORUMHOUSE moderator-consultant

By strong ventilation, you disturb the climate in the cellar - for example, you can cool it down a lot in winter, and heat it up a lot in summer. This contributes to the formation of condensation and mold.

Nevertheless, competent, well-thought-out cellar ventilation is the key to successful storage of vegetables until the next season.

Tocon FORUMHOUSE Member

The ventilation began to work, the cellar stopped crying (before that, one might say, it roared without ceasing).

Ventilation in cellars and cellars is arranged as follows:

An exhaust pipe is installed on the north side of the basement, which drops 10-15 cm relative to the ceiling.

A supply pipe is installed on the south side, which should drop to a level of 10-20 cm above the floor.

Usually pipes are installed diagonally, in opposite corners of the cellar. To avoid the formation of condensate in the cellar in the summer, the exhaust openings are closed for the warm season, and they also make sure that the lid is tightly closed and insulated from heat as much as possible (for this, you can put a piece of foam on it). In autumn, when more than low temperature than in the cellar, the cellar lid is opened and left open until the temperature in it is about +2 - +3 degrees. The warm, moist air of the cellar will be replaced by dry and cold air from the street, so during such ventilation, the damp cellar usually dries out quickly.

For the winter, with the exception of especially frosty days, only the inflow is closed.

Efh Member FORUMHOUSE

I can advise you to leave one hood open for the winter and insulate the pipe itself well (so that it doesn’t drag on with a jacket). No stitching, and nothing will freeze.

Some participants of our portal do not have ventilation in the cellar, but condensate does not form in it, since the causes of dampness were different - bad and cold walls and floors. Sometimes these shortcomings are easy to eliminate, and sometimes a global alteration of the cellar is required.

A damp basement or cellar in a house can cause many problems for owners. A high degree of humidity becomes not only the cause of food spoilage, but also the rapid destruction of the walls of the building. You can get rid of dampness yourself if you take the necessary measures.

Dampness in the basement or cellar: causes, optimal humidity level

Before you start removing dampness from the basement or cellar, you need to understand well the reasons for its occurrence. It can appear both in the basement of brick, cinder concrete, foam concrete or aerated concrete house, and wooden.

Damp penetration from the outside

Water can enter the basement from the outside or appear as water droplets on the walls and ceiling.

It seeps into the basement or cellar through microscopic cracks and defects in the walls, as well as due to poorly installed communication networks.
If the basement is damp, then you need to pay attention to the condition of the blind area.
Growing near the foundation big trees can pass water into the room through their root system.
Close proximity to the surface of groundwater can cause dampness.

Internal moisture source

If condensation collects on the walls, then the ventilation system in the basement does not work well or it is completely absent. To eliminate the cause, two pipes are enough to create a supply and exhaust ventilation. In large basements, natural ventilation is usually not enough, so it is necessary to create a forced system, thanks to which it will be possible to independently regulate the temperature in the room. If there are water pipes in the basement, they must be well insulated to prevent condensation on the walls and ceiling.

Why does the basement of a wooden house get damp?

Since the tree is natural material, then it is subject to various negative "diseases" - the appearance of mold and fungus, rotting. Therefore, dampness often appears in the basements of such buildings. If a pleasant microclimate reigns in the house, but greenish spots appear on the walls of the basement and an unpleasant smell of rot is felt, this indicates high humidity. To begin with, assess the condition of the drainage system and sewerage. If there are no problems in this area, and the fungus does not disappear, you need to look at the problem more broadly.

The reason for the high level of humidity can be poor-quality waterproofing and insufficient ventilation system. Fungus and mold will never grow in a dry and well-ventilated basement. The waterproofing layer will not allow moisture to penetrate into the room, which contributes to the development of fungal and mold growths. Particular attention should be paid to old wooden buildings, in which the primary layer of waterproofing has long been broken.

Why does dampness occur in the garage

This is a non-residential building that does not require major insulation work. But many people have basements in their garages where they store various products and canned food. And in this case, dampness becomes a problem. As in an ordinary house, good ventilation, waterproofing and an external blind area should be created in the garage.

When the temperature outside is below zero, the level of humidity in the basement increases. This is due to the difference in temperature outside and inside the room. Cold outdoor air cools the walls, and inside the basement the temperature is much higher and therefore the air, cooling in the basement, turns into condensate and accumulates on surfaces in the form of water droplets. As a result, humidity increases, which creates favorable conditions for the growth of fungi and mold.

What level of humidity is considered normal

For the human body, the normal level of humidity is about 40-60%. At higher percentages, the risk of chronic respiratory diseases, skin diseases, and dangerous bronchial asthma increases. Dampness causes wet spots, mold and a suffocating putrid odor. Wooden structures deteriorate, and stone and concrete structures begin to crumble. Metal elements rust, and wooden elements quickly rot.

If it is impossible to remove dampness through natural ventilation, the humidity regime in the house is disturbed and fungal spores that hover in the air begin to actively multiply not only inside residential premises, but also in basements (cellars). This process is on a massive scale. If the humidity level reaches 70% or more, and the air temperature in the room is 15 ° C, then active measures should be taken. First you need to accurately determine the level of humidity using a hygrometer, and then move on to identifying the source of dampness and fixing the problem.

How to remove dampness from the basement: effective methods of struggle

Cracks become a dangerous source of moisture infiltration into the room. So the first thing to do is eliminate them.

External waterproofing

First, you should check the condition of the house from the outside, since very often dampness appears due to poor-quality installation of the drainage system.

We examine the slopes on the building.
We make sure that the drainpipes divert water into a funnel of a special storm drain underground or into a surface gutter.
We check the drainage system, which is located around the house.
We look at the state of the blind area.

Any problems found must be corrected.

Then you need to protect the walls underground.

We remove the destroyed blind area.
We dig a small hole outside the basement walls, about 0.5 m wide and half a meter deep below the floor level.
They dig a hole around the house half a meter wide to dry the walls
Thoroughly dry the outer walls of the house. This can be done naturally or with the help of special construction fans.
We treat the walls with special antiseptics.
We fill the hole with rubble.
We make a dense underground adjoining blind area from roofing material. To do this, we fix a sheet of material half a meter above the ground on the wall of the house and take it over the edge of the outer wall.
We make a high-quality blind area.
We coat it with bituminous mastic.

Internal waterproofing device

As a result of improperly made basement waterproofing, dampness begins to appear over time. To keep the room dry, this needs to be fixed.

Dry the basement well.
We remove the old peeling coating from the walls, ceiling and floor.
It is necessary to remove the plaster damaged by mold and fungus from the walls for quality repair all defects
We clean all the cracks and cracks. Carefully seal the damaged areas with cement mortar.
Soaking all the walls effective tool against fungus and mold.
A special tool is used to clean concrete surfaces from fungus and mold.
With bituminous mastic (or other waterproofing agent), we thoroughly coat all walls, ceiling and floor.
We close up the leaks and where they were before, with alabaster.
The device for internal waterproofing of the basement is performed by treating the walls with water-repellent materials
For greater efficiency, you can re-plaster the walls of the basement.
After drying and waterproofing treatment, it is also possible to re-plaster the basement walls.

To enhance the waterproofing effect will help some actions.

Basement cement floor waterproofing

Dismantle the old floor.
Seal all existing gaps and cracks in the concrete with a cement mortar.
When everything is dry, cover the floor with sifted sand or fine expanded clay (a layer of at least 5 cm).
From above, lay sheets of roofing material, 3 mm thick with an overlap of 10 cm on each other and on the walls. You can use a special waterproofing film for the floor.
Once again, seal all the cracks with bituminous mastic and make a new screed.
If desired, you can lay logs and arrange a wooden floor.

Basement clay floor waterproofing

If the basement floor is made of clay, then this will speed up the process.

Remove a small layer of clay (5 cm).
Leveling the base.
We lay polyethylene on top in 2 layers with an overlap on each other and on the walls of 10 cm.
Pour a layer of slightly moistened clay with sawdust (10-15 cm thick) on top of the film and tamp it well. We take sawdust and clay in a ratio of 1:10.
As the clay dries, it will crack a little, so the cracks will need to be sealed with the same solution.
Then we put another similar layer of clay with 20-25 cm on the walls.
When the clay dries, the humidity in the cellar will decrease, the air will be much drier.

How to Remove Basement Dampness During the Rainy Season

It often happens that the humidity increases in autumn and spring during the season of high rainfall. In this case, a different method of removing dampness is used.

We fill the floor with sand or gravel, about 10 cm thick. If the moisture does not go away, add more. This will lower the groundwater level to the point where water cannot rise above floor level.
To remove condensate from the walls, it is necessary to use a special waterproofing plaster solution, which will allow the walls and floor in the cellar to “breathe”. You can buy a ready-made mixture (Monolith, Ceresit, Polimin, Konsolit) or make it yourself. To do this, mix hydroadditives and dry plaster: for example, 250 ml of Cemaplast superplasticizer and 50 kg of cement or 21 g of Palmix per 50 kg of dry cement.

How to strengthen a thin floor in the cellar

A thin floor causes dampness in the cellar. In this case, it is necessary to make a double base by laying roofing felt sheets that will protect the floor from excess moisture. All joints must be well smeared with bituminous mastic, and then a finishing cement screed should be made on top.

An excellent way to eliminate dampness is calcium chloride. It is able to absorb moisture, as it is considered an excellent absorbent: pour the powder into various containers and place them in the corners of the cellar. Usually, 0.5 kg of the substance is enough for a small cellar.

Ventilation system

A poor ventilation system is one of the main causes of dampness in the basements of brick or wood houses.

The device is a simple supply and exhaust system

Take two thick pipes, one of which is drawn from the floor in the basement and brought out under the very ceiling to the street with a height of about 30 cm. The pipe should not reach the floor by about 10 cm. This will be the supply system.
Place the second pipe directly under the ceiling and also bring it outside by about 40-60 cm. This will be the exhaust system.
Pipes should be at different ends of the room. Install special covers on their ends that will protect the holes from rain and melt water entering them.

Video: ventilation device in the basement of the garage

Folk methods of dealing with dampness

There are inexpensive but effective folk methods fight dampness in basements.

To remove dampness, it is necessary to place four cans of white moss powder on the floor or shelves in the corners of the room. It perfectly absorbs moisture. This method will be effective only with a small percentage of basement moisture.
Moisture can be removed with hydrochloric acid. To do this, we remove all food and conservation from the basement. We dilute the acid so that a weak solution is obtained (100 ml per 1 liter of water). We put on gloves and carefully process the walls, shelves, ceiling and floor with the resulting solution. Care must be taken as hydrochloric acid can cause chemical burns.
The other way is also effective. Put glass or ceramic deep dishes on the floor, fill it with rock salt, and pour on top sulfuric acid. It is necessary to work only in protective clothing in compliance with all safety measures. Pairs that will stand out as a result chemical reaction, capable of destroying mold and fungal spores. When the dampness is gone, it is necessary to ventilate the room well and rinse all surfaces. You can buy sulfuric acid in online chemical reagent stores. This is a very dangerous substance, so you should think carefully about the advisability of using it in the basement of a residential building so as not to endanger the people living in it.
After creating a ventilation system, you can use slaked lime to further remove excess moisture. To do this, you just need to put a deep container with a substance in the corner of the basement. It not only absorbs moisture, but also kills developing fungi in pairs.
If the walls in the basement are damp, but fungi and mold have not yet begun to appear, you can put red-hot clay bricks in different places (3-4 pieces for a small room). As the clay cools, it will actively absorb moisture. When the bricks have cooled, they must be heated again.
Can be put electric fireplace next to a damp wall. It will warm up the required area and dry it. But this method will be effective only if the basement is damp small plot walls.
Mold and fungus in the basement can be removed with boric, acetic or citric acid. You just need to wash all surfaces well with one of the active substances.
You can remove dampness from the cellar using ordinary diesel fuel. In this case, it is important to first free the room from products, and only then treat the walls and ceiling well with fuel, and whitewash the surfaces.

Dampness in the basement of the garage or wooden house may arise due to the proximity of groundwater, the location of the building in a lowland. Wooden structures most prone to rotting due to the high level of moisture, therefore, methods for eliminating the cause must be effective, and folk are not always so.

An eco-friendly way to kill fungus in the basement - video

How to eliminate dampness and fungus in a wooden cellar

Also remove mold from wooden surfaces it is possible with the help of a solution of sodium fluoride, zinc chloride, sodium silicate fluoride or ammonium.

Ammonium Sulphate Powder Removes Mold From Wooden Cellar Walls

You can make a special paste.

We take 150 g of sodium fluoride, 135 clay and 200 ml of water.
Add to boiling water Chemical substance and pour in the clay.
Mix everything well until a homogeneous consistency is formed.
We process all the surfaces of the cellar with the resulting paste and leave them to dry. This amount of paste is enough to process 1 m 2 of a wooden section of the wall. For greater efficiency, we re-treat in a month.

Sodium fluorosilicon powder is needed to prepare a paste used to protect wooden structures from moisture.

How to prevent dampness: preventive measures

If you live in an old house and cracks regularly appear in the basement, which cause dampness, then you need to repair them well with rags soaked in bituminous mastic, and cover them with plaster on top. This will be a temporary method, but it will not allow water to enter the room.
In the basement, you can make a pit, which is a metal or concrete "glass" for water drainage. It will be easy to pump water out of it with a pump. But in this case, the floor in the room should have a slight slope towards the pit.
It is necessary to regularly monitor the condition of the basement, check the condition of the sewerage and plumbing systems, as well as the roof of the house.
It is important to regularly ventilate the room.
In the summer, on hot days, take out all the wooden shelves and racks to the street so that they dry out and warm up well in the sun.
Treat the walls every season with effective antiseptic agents.

Depending on how damp the walls and other surfaces of the basement are, as well as on the cause of such a problem, it is necessary to choose the means to solve it. Using correctly various methods removing moisture, you can always keep your basement or cellar clean and dry.