How to plan a garden. Examples of the optimal layout of the garden and vegetable garden in a small area. Laws of rational distribution

What needs to be done in order to collect a rich harvest from your site every year? Is it enough fertile land, timely applied fertilizers and treatment of plants from pests? It would seem that here they are - the cherished hundreds, it is worth planting them and reap the result. But everything is not so simple. Conflicts exist not only among people, but also among plants.

But we are not trees, we can move away from the opponent, but plants do not have such an opportunity. Therefore, before embarking on a landing, it is necessary to develop its plan. And in order to plan correctly, you need to have knowledge of what crops have grown in the previous few years on each site, how fertile each site is, which plants can be planted together and which are best kept away from each other, and other factors.

We are planning a garden

For arranging a garden, you need to choose an open area, since all vegetables love sunlight. On the site near the house, fence and other structures in partial shade, onions can be planted, it is the only one capable of growing in shading. But you should not count on a big harvest.

Be sure to consider the compatibility of vegetables. The celery family and the onion family are friends with families. A good neighbor for them will be cabbage, as well as potatoes, dill and lettuce.

Potatoes alone go well with beans, corn, horseradish, onions and cabbage.

Radishes get improved taste qualities and becomes larger if adjacent to bush beans.

Tomatoes are combined with greens, cabbage, asparagus and beans.

Carrots, in principle, are peaceful and are combined with almost all crops, including peas.

Peas, in addition to carrots, are friends with cucumber, potatoes, corn and radishes. And the radish, in principle, has a good disposition, positively affecting other vegetables.

But cabbage with tomatoes and beans cannot boast of good neighborly relations.

Cucumber is not compatible with potatoes, potatoes with tomato and pumpkin, tomato with fennel.

You should not plant peas with beans near onions and garlic, and radishes next to hyssop.

We are planning a garden

When planting garden trees, you have to use analytical thinking as much as possible, in particular, the ability to plan several years ahead. After all, a tree is not a potato - you can’t transplant it next year. Not only that, you need to choose the right landing site for each tree. It is also necessary to calculate the planting of vegetables, flowers, bushes relative to trees.

Vegetables and shrubs should never be planted near young trees. It may seem at first good decision, since this arrangement saves space well. But in a few years the trees will grow, and garden crops and berries will be in the shade.

Of course, vegetables can be planted every year in a new place, but that's if it exists. And not all shrubs will be happy about the imminent change of residence. In general, when planning a garden, you should either immediately allocate space for each crop, or understand where it can be allocated in a few years.

Those who plan to grow strawberries, berry bushes, cherries and plums in the garden should be aware that each of these plants has its own ideal fruiting periods in one place, and over time they will have to be transplanted.

With berry bushes a little easier. At good care they are capable of very long fruiting in one place. With regular pruning and spraying, plants can produce good harvest within 10 - 15 years without changing the place of residence.

But strawberries in one place should not be grown for more than 3 years. Therefore, one of its beds should be released every year for vegetables, and a vegetable bed for strawberries. In this case, it is immediately clear that it is more convenient to refer strawberries to the garden, so that it is easier to change the ridges. In addition, strawberries are best planted in places where snow is well retained in winter.

When planting shrubs, their preferences must be taken into account. Gooseberries and redcurrants like dry, well-lit areas, while blackcurrants prefer wetter areas. Raspberries produce many root branches, while sea buckthorn has long roots. These plants interfere with the development of others, so they are planted separately.

Tall trees and shrubs planted close to the boundary can shade neighboring areas, this, of course, is unacceptable. Only by respecting the rights of neighbors can one demand the same respect towards oneself. Vigorous trees should be planted at a distance of two meters from the border, and medium-sized trees at least a meter away. The distance between the border and the trees can be occupied by bushes of currants, raspberries and gooseberries.

In order for the house to receive enough light, tall trees should be planted deep into the site. And next to housing, plant flowers, vegetables, herbs, strawberries, shrubs.

To take into account all the nuances when planting and transplanting plants, you need to know the data on which plants grew on each of the plots during the previous 3-4 years. It would be useful to predict exactly how plants will be transplanted not only in this year but also in the next few years.

In this regard, the computer makes life much easier. With the help of special programs, you can recreate the site plan to mark in which year and where certain crops grew.

For those for whom this method is not suitable, you can redraw the plan every year with a simple pencil and keep all the plans for the previous few years. True, this is not very convenient, you constantly have to erase the drawings and apply again.

To simplify this process, you can draw and cut identical rectangles from a blank sheet, each of which will indicate a specific crop that the summer resident is going to plant, and try to assemble a "puzzle" for future planting on last year's site plan.

The method is convenient in that you do not have to constantly erase and redraw the missing details, but you can easily correct the omissions simply by moving the rectangle to a new location.

It often happens that the space of the garden is organized: on the first impulse, under the influence of emotions or under the influence of advertising, seedlings, flowers, accessories are bought, and then all this is placed randomly on the site or according to the principle “like everyone else”. How will it all end? One and the same: it will soon turn out that almost everything was out of place, and as a result, the site is ugly and uncomfortable.

To get what you want, you need to act like professionals from the very beginning - competently plan your garden. There is no other way, only advance planning allows you to get the garden you dream of.

Dinner Zone

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What kind of garden do you dream of? This is where you need to stop. This is the first professional step. You need to determine what kind of garden you need, and very specifically and "materially". To do this, start with yourself.

Take a blank sheet of paper and in a calm atmosphere think and write down: what you like and what you don’t, what are your needs, hobbies, family traditions, how you spend your leisure time, what inspires you, what you want to achieve. It is important. Let each member of your family make such a record, such a “research” will then help you in choosing specific options.

Resting-place

flowerpower.com.au

Now it's time to assemble the "family council". Gather together and have everyone make a list of their wishes for what they would like to have on the site. First, abstract from the size of the site, as well as whether it is new or already has plantings and buildings on it. Do not limit your imagination, write down everything you want: a bathhouse, a gazebo, an orchard, a vegetable garden, a patio, a rock garden, an alpine hill, a pond, a workshop ... Children will probably need a playground, and a cozy bench for older family members. And where there is a garden - there is a barn, and compost heap. Discuss your lists together and roughly estimate the area for everything planned out. It is quite natural that everything will not fit on the site. Therefore, you need to go through the lists a few more times and cross off everything that you can do without, and this is where your first list will help you - a list of your personal priorities.

The location of the beds

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You have identified your "objects of desire". The next step is to create a "collection of ideas". To do this, you need a bright folder with pocket files. Gradually put into it all the “images” that are related to your future “design project”: magazine clippings, photographs, drawings, samples of flower beds, arbors, original ideas, color solutions, materials from exhibitions. At first, do not analyze the feasibility, complexity - just collect whatever you like. The most unexpected decisions, not necessarily in the same variants as in your "collection", and from this "kaleidoscope" your unique version will be formed.

Well, now - you are ready to proceed directly to planning. After all, now you know your dream “by sight”. When planning, you need to consider whether you have a completely new site, or an already inhabited garden. The dream garden is real for you anyway. A fully inhabited garden can also be redesigned one hundred percent, it's all about the technique used.

shrubs

Use very effective method which does not require special skills and abilities. It's called "the method of kálek".

1. The boundaries of the garden. Take a blank sheet of paper and draw the boundaries of your area. To do this, you will need graph paper (scale 1:100, which means that a meter on the site corresponds to a centimeter on paper. This will be the most convenient scale for you). You can take plain white paper and use a scale ruler (such rulers are sold with different scales, choose the one with 1:100). You will also need pencils (simple and colored), a compass, a square, a ruler, tracing paper, a tape measure and a compass. Before drawing, measure the sides of the plot with a tape measure. By the way, if you don’t know how to draw at all, documents for your site will help you - there should be a scale plan, its configuration. You just have to enlarge them to the desired, larger scale.

Stone as a material for improvised buildings

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2. Garden zoning. Here you need to determine which zones (parts of the garden) will be located where and what size they will be. Zones always have some function and usually distinguish: a residential area (house, summer house, summer cuisine, patio, etc.), recreation areas (gazebo, barbecue area, pond, swimming pool), utility areas (garden, vegetable garden, barn, garage, workshop, etc.). But this is only indicative, and you yourself can “establish” any zones, since you already have your own wishes.

Zones should be noted on your "design project". But not on the sheet of paper where you drew the boundaries of the site! Take a few sheets of tracing paper for this. Transfer your original plan to tracing paper in several copies and mark the zones on one of them. They are drawn as abstract spots of arbitrary shape. Sign them. Consider the resulting option. It is possible that questions will arise where it is better to place any zone, for example, a gazebo. And you have just a few cripples. Estimate this way and that, compare the options, move the tracing paper along the main plan and immediately see the best one. So, gradually, you will receive a complete plan of zones (and determine their size according to your needs). At this stage, priority is given to practicality and rationality, because even the most spectacular design is unlikely to please you if it is inconvenient on the site.

catwalks

3. Tracks. Draw them on the paper. First, mark the intended routes of your movement with arrows, and then draw the outlines of the tracks along them with lines. Their exact width and shape can be added later. The main criterion is to be comfortable. For decorative reasons, do not make all the tracks absolutely even, let there be a slight bend. Loop them around the garden - connect them into a single route. This is both convenient and practical; this is one of the techniques of landscape architecture.

4. Trees and shrubs. Draw them on the tracing paper in circles of the appropriate size, for this, ask in the reference books what size the crown of the trees you have chosen in adulthood and what distance they need when planting. General recommendation by placement such: more tall plants- in the lower part of the site, flowering - closer to the recreation areas. Shrubs, including berry bushes, can frame the path, conifers can be fenced off from the prevailing winds.

5. Flower beds. Draw everything on the next tracing paper, as there will be many options! Arrange them however you like, but don't forget about lighting requirements. Place for roses - in front of the house and on the south side, conifers and heathers are good in rock gardens, give the entrance to the site to plants that bloom longer than others.

Garden furniture

6. Vertical gardening. We draw it with conditional icons also on tracing paper. Choose your types vertical gardening that you like: screens, arches, trellises, pergolas, etc.

7. Garden accents. Place accents on a schematic plan: garden accessories, containers with plants, think over lighting, spectacular details. In a word, give the site a "zest".

Well, now - the most exciting moment! By combining all your tracing papers, you will get a plan for your dream garden.

Yard

www.meaningfullife.com

Here the same method is used, but with some peculiarities.

1. Analysis of existing conditions. At the very beginning of planning, you should draw the boundaries of the garden. But then follows an analysis of the existing conditions - what is “given” to you. You need to draw a site plan as it is now. So, you have drawn the boundaries of the site, and now put on this plan all those objects that already exist on it (trees, buildings, etc.). The resulting plan of what is "given" now needs to be supplemented. This means - to identify the individual characteristics of your site. Mark the cardinal directions on the plan, determining them with the help of a compass - this is very important for the correct orientation of future plantings and buildings, this is your light "climate". Mark all the features of the microrelief - depressions, elevations, irregularities and sign them. Draw with an arrow the direction of the slope, if any. Evaluate its angle by eye. Pay attention to the landscape around you, the proximity of the forest, reservoir, road, how beautiful the views from the site are, to the buildings of the neighbors. Directly on the plan, sign what you would like to hide, and what, on the contrary, to reveal. Depict objects on the plan with simple geometric shapes - circles, rectangles of the appropriate size, preferably colored.

If your garden is inhabited, you know a lot about it. Therefore, be sure to mark on the plan the direction of the prevailing winds, the “movement schedule” of shadows during the day, the location of the warmest and coldest places (those where frost is guaranteed and snow stays longer). It would be very good, of course, to find out the level ground water and soil composition (approximate, precise analysis not needed).

It is very good to use a camera when analyzing the existing conditions. It will be very convenient to take pictures of some corners of your estate in order to always have food for thought before your eyes and not miss a single detail.

decorative lantern

mimimiamiliving.com

2. Zoning of a habitable garden. The main thing when zoning is to take into account those individual features that you identified at the first step: the relief, the surrounding landscape, existing buildings, and climatic features. If from somewhere it opens especially beautiful view- it is logical to make a recreation area there if there is a low or depression - best place not to be found for a pond. The most important design secret: most of the minuses of your site are actually pluses, this is luck, this is your individual style, it is thanks to them that your site will become unique!

flower border

www.homesandland.com

If the site has already been developed, there are buildings and plantings, then you need to consider each "object" as far as it suits you and fits into the new zoning. There is no need to be afraid of cardinal changes, since everything can always be adapted to new conditions, there are special decorative techniques for this.

All subsequent five steps- plan paths, plants, flower beds, vertical gardening and garden accents on separate tracing papers in the same way as when planning a new garden. But before that, having completed the zoning, mark on the tracing paper only those objects that you would like to leave in the garden, and abstract from the rest - do not transfer them to your project.

The layout of the fruit and berry garden is a responsible task, the solution of which will depend on the future supply of the family with tasty and varied fruits and berries. Therefore, when planning a site, you need (as the people say) to hurry slowly.

Preparatory work

When planning a land plot, it is necessary to allocate an open sunny place for a garden with a high standing of groundwater. It is impossible to lay a garden in a lowland, where cold streams of air and water will roll down during the spring flood. After an external examination of the land allocated for the garden, determine and write down in your diary a list of preparatory work.

woodcroft orchard

Clear the area of old stumps, wild shrubs, stones and other debris.
Plow the area deep or dig with the turnover of the formation.
Water to encourage weeds to emerge. After seedlings, carry out deep cultivation and level the area.
In parallel, take the soil to the nearest chemical laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, chemical composition. This is necessary for the subsequent care of the garden: fertilization, irrigation, and other agrotechnical measures.
According to the results of the analysis (according to the recommendations), apply the recommended doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for the final autumn processing. Without such data, it is not advisable to fertilize the site. It is better to apply fertilizers and other components directly to the planting hole ( mineral fertilizers, humus or biohumus, slaked lime, biological products from pests and diseases).

Zoning when planning garden and berry plantings

On a separate sheet of your garden diary, draw a diagram of the layout of the garden. The garden can be located in front of the house, to the side or behind, but the trees and bushes should be located from north to south for better illumination and have three zones. They can be located one after another or divided into three separate sections located at different ends of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe cottage.

If the zoning is joint, then a garden is laid in the first zone, the plants of which will not shade the cultures of the second zone, and in the morning they will receive their share of the sun.
In the second zone, it is better to place berries. Their height is up to 1.5 meters. The morning shadow from the bushes will not harm the plants of the third zone.
In the third zone will be planted proper Orchard. From the neighbors, it should be at a distance of 2.5-3.0 m, so as not to obscure their site.

On the pages of the garden diary, write down the names and brief description fruit and berry crops, and in the diagram, indicate under the numbers their location on the plot area.

pickleslee

Berry layout

When breaking down the berry in the diagram, immediately consider the nature of the plants. So, blackcurrant grows quietly surrounded by other neighbors, but sea buckthorn and viburnum are rather quarrelsome with neighbors. Therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn can be used as a green hedge, and viburnum, hawthorn - in a landscape decoration of a recreation area. In solitary plantings of mowed lawns, they look great.

Some owners believe that berry growers are generally better placed along the boundaries of the site. In this case, part of the land is released for other crops or zones (recreation, sports, etc.). Such planning is suitable if the site is not fenced with a green hedge or the berry bushes themselves can serve this purpose with their features (thorny, dense, etc.).

The density of planting berries is very important. It is a natural regulator of the optimal development of plants, their resistance to diseases and the formation of crops.

Raspberries are planted in dense rows, 0.5 m apart and 1.0-1.5 meters between rows. Growing, raspberries occupy the aisles, the former aisles are freed from raspberries and become temporary paths. By pruning overgrowth, the culture is interchanged, returning after 2-4 years to its original place.
Ioshta, black and golden currants are planted at a distance between bushes of at least 1.5 m, and red through a meter. Large bushes will shade each other, thorns of certain gooseberry varieties will completely limit access to berries. Honeysuckle and shadberry, when used as a green hedge, are planted after 1.0-1.5 meters (and even thicker), and in the berry bush at a distance of up to 2 meters.

Thomas Generazio

The number of certain berry bushes is very important. Think over and on the diagram plan in advance the quantity of each type and variety so that you can provide your family with fresh berries and make preparations for the winter. For a family of 4-5 people, there will be enough 20 raspberry bushes, 3-4 bushes of all types of currants and gooseberries, ioshta, shadberry and honeysuckle. Leave some room for exotic newcomers to come into your line of sight over time. A properly planned berry tree grows normally and bears fruit within 7-12 years, and then gradually rejuvenates or the bushes are transferred to another place.

Orchard layout

On the next free page of the garden diary, draw a layout of fruit crops. Conditionally allocate 4 square meters for each crop. m of total area under one tree. Do not thicken the landings. Trees will grow and begin to interfere, and even oppress each other. Planting pits should be in a row at a distance of 4.0-4.5 m. Leave aisles at least 2.5-3.0 m. Pay attention to the types of crops. So, today most farms are switching to columnar forms of apple and pear trees - the main horticultural crops in the dacha economy. In terms of habit, these species are much smaller, and the yield is almost equal to tall crops. Columnar forms are easier to care for, they are resistant to disease, less damaged by frost.

For an average family, 1-2 trees of each type are enough. The garden should contain early, middle and late varieties to have fresh fruits throughout the warm season and also prepare processed ones for the winter. From garden crops, it is enough to have 2 cherries (early and late). Instead of a medium cherry, plant 2 cherries. They form a crop after an early sweet cherry. You need 1 quince (later you can graft another species or other varieties on it), 2-3 plums, including one marabelle. Enough 1-2 apricots of frost-resistant varieties. 2-3 apple trees, which over time through grafting can be turned into 6-8 varieties different terms maturation. Don't forget to leave room for exotics. Be sure to plant the nuts separately. Almost nothing grows under the crown of this crop. If you like hazel, set aside the first row for it so that taller trees do not deprive it of the sun with their shade. 11-12 fruit trees will eventually grow into 18-20 varieties of all kinds.

In order for the garden to serve for a long time and not get sick, it is imperative to use zoned varieties. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, weather changes, bear fruit longer. You can get acquainted with varieties and varieties for your region, up to the district, and their characteristics in catalogs and other literature. When buying seedlings, be sure to contact the experts. Remember! A garden planted with low-quality seedlings will add work and care, but will not please you with the harvest and quality of the fruits.

General Approaches to Planting a Garden

Lay the garden in the fall, that is, dig planting pits according to your scheme, prepare near each that fertilizer mixture that is necessary for the condition of the soil.

Planting hole preparation

In autumn, you can only prepare a planting hole of approximate size, since the final version will be determined by the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the purchased seedling. The preliminary size of the planting pit is approximately 60x60 for 2-year-old seedlings, for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm and finalized when planting the seedling in the pit.

Soil preparation

Near each pit mix upper layer soils with humus, peat. In the spring, before planting a seedling, add a glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska to this mixture. Mix well.

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Purchase and preparation of seedlings

Planting seedlings is best done in the spring. During the growing season, the seedlings will get stronger, the root system will strengthen. A young tree adapts to a new location during the warm spring-summer-autumn period.

Do not rush to buy seedlings from individual unfamiliar sellers, especially along the roads leading to the dacha. It is better to purchase seedlings in farms that grow them or in nurseries. There is more confidence here that you will acquire the desired zoned variety of the garden or berry crop you need.

Carefully inspect the selected seedling. If you find dried roots, a crooked stem, cracks in the bark or drops of gum, refuse to buy. Remember! No assurances from the seller will return the lost time.

Rules for planting seedlings

Soak the seedlings in a root or other growth stimulant 1-2 days before planting. Prepare a container of clay talker with the addition of root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides suitable for tank mixes may be used.

About 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, pour some of the soil mixture into the hole with a cone. During this week, the cone will settle, and the planted seedling will be correctly placed in the pit. Dip the prepared seedling into a mash, insert it into the pit, straightening the root along the cone so that there are no creases upwards, and fill 2/3 of the pit with soil mixture. Fill the bucket with water. After soaking, pour in the rest of the potting mix or soil. Drive in a stake and secure the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling, swaying under the gusts of wind, will break off the small roots that provide the plant with the soil.

Important nuances of landing

When planting, be sure to follow the correct depth of the root collar. When it is deepened, the tree can dry out for no reason in 5-10 years (especially on heavy soils). On the lungs sandy soils(especially in the south), it is better to deepen the root collar somewhat into the soil (8-10 cm), "hiding" it from the upper drying layer. In seedlings that form adventitious roots or shoots (figs, currants, plums, apple trees), deepening does not interfere with the normal development of the tree. Seedlings of these crops quickly rebuild the root system, often on insufficiently moist soils.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be at the level of the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher (no more). In grafted seedlings, the grafting site is located 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse the root neck and graft and deepen the planting to the grafting site. In this case, the root neck is deeply buried in the soil and the tree dies early.

If you have correctly identified the root neck and planted the seedling so that it rises 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. We compact the soil around the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, we make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 more buckets of water. Together with the soaking water, the seedling will also be pulled into the soil. Make sure that the root collar remains 2-3 cm above the soil. If necessary, top up the soil after watering and mulch with a small layer of fine mulch (peat or humus, sawdust). If live seedlings are purchased, the planting is done correctly, in 2-3 weeks your garden will turn green with the first young leaves.

starkbros

How to determine the root neck

In a young seedling, it is good to wipe the lower part of the trunk and the beginning of the root with a wet cloth. The root collar is defined as a transition from greenish (trunk) to light brown (root zone).
In older seedlings (3-4 years old), we wipe the lower part of the trunk with a wet rag and, after the wet zone dries, carefully scrape off the bark with a knife at the site of an inconspicuous expansion of the trunk into the root. If at the site of expansion the scraped color of the young subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root zone. The place of transition of one color to another is the root collar.
In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This is the root collar. The place of origin of the roots should remain above the level of the landing pit.

What not to do when planting seedlings

It is impossible to use semi-rotted manure when planting, only humus mixed with soil.
You can not often water the seedlings with small norms of water. They only dry out the soil in the planting hole.
Do not water seedlings cold water(from an artesian).
It is impossible to fertilize plants in the first year after planting, and especially with nitrogen fertilizers.
After planting, it is impossible to mulch the near-trunk circle with a large layer of mulch. In the event of prolonged rains, water accumulated in the mulch will cause the young bark to rot and the plant to die. A thick layer of mulch is applied in the fall, which will protect the soil from freezing and the death of seedlings from low temperatures.

What to do when planting seedlings

Whiten young seedlings with a solution of chalk and clay with the addition of biological products from diseases and pests or a solution of copper sulfate.
Insulate the trunk with several layers of burlap, lutrasil, spandbond, paper and other materials.
From hares and other rodents, protect the trunk with a mesh chain-link or spruce branches, deepening the latter into the soil by 5-10 cm.
After each sufficiently large snowfall, trample the snow around the trunk, which will protect the latter from being eaten by mice.

A rare owner of a private house prefers not to plant on his site fruit trees. Everyone usually wants to have a fruit garden - in spring, trees delight with wonderful flowering and aroma, and fruits and berries from your own garden always seem much tastier than those bought in a store or market, besides, you know that these are environmentally friendly products. In the art of Feng Shui, the image of a blooming orchard is a symbol of abundance and prosperity. The layout of the garden is a responsible matter, their growth and ability to bear fruit will depend on how correctly you plant the trees, so this task must be taken with great attention.

If you want to grow vegetables in your garden as well, the layout of the garden and vegetable garden must be considered together. It is better to take a place for beds at the southern border, from north to south, this is better for crops growing in the middle lane. Some gardeners recommend placing beds from east to west. Behind the vegetable and strawberry (strawberry) beds are fruit bushes - currants, gooseberries. Trees are planted behind the bushes, a light shade from the trees will not harm the berry bushes, and the vegetable beds should be in the sun.

An example of the design of vegetable beds - they do not have to be square or rectangular shape, the original beds resemble flower beds

What do you need to know before planning?

Before you start planning your garden, you need to take into account the following important factors:

What is the size of the area can be allocated for an orchard. For trees with spreading crowns, a distance of 4 sq.m.
terrain. For an orchard, flat terrain or a gentle slope would be ideal, cold air lingers in the hollows, excessive moisture, these areas are unfavorable for fruit trees.
Soil analysis of your site. Fruit crops have a powerful root system, soils must be fertile to provide it good food. Stony, clay, sandy soil is not suitable for a garden. The proximity of groundwater negatively affects the growth of trees.
Presence of heat and light. For most fruit trees, it is important that there is plenty of light and heat; in the shade, they grow and bear fruit much worse. It should be said about the area with constant strong wind- the wind interferes with normal pollination, dries the soil, often damages crops and breaks tree branches. A high fence or green spaces can partially protect against winds.

Planning starts with a blueprint on paper. If there is already a house on the site, you need to start planning from it. A map of the site, the contours of the house and other buildings, as well as places where trees already grow, are applied to the paper on a scale.

This site is protected from the wind by trees planted around it, which have already grown enough to provide protection.

If the site is not built up yet, a place for building a house is applied to the scheme. The layout of the garden on the site suggests the presence of a front garden. The house should face the street, in front of it there is a strip of land for the front garden. Its size depends on the area of the site - for someone it is only a meter, for someone it is 6-8 meters. In a small front garden, flowers, raspberries and berry bushes are usually planted, in a large one - ornamental trees, flowers or several fruit trees at the discretion of the owners.

For large fruit trees - apple trees, pears, take a place in the northeast side of the site, between them and fruit and berry bushes - a place for smaller trees - cherries, plums.

An example of the layout of the garden and vegetable garden - the site is divided into two parts. In the first - a house surrounded by a front garden and beds with vegetables, the second half - an orchard with trees planted in rows

In general, it will be convenient to draw a site plan, put on it all the existing buildings, the proposed location of the garden and vegetable garden. On the site you need to mark the holes for planting trees. Try to plant trees at a distance so that as they grow, they do not obscure each other. Heap-growing bushes and trees in the garden do not grow well, in addition, conditions are created for diseases of horticultural crops. In fruit trees, the root system is powerful, it should develop freely.

Advice. If your site is overgrown with wild shrubs, there are stumps on it that need to be uprooted, do necessary work and burn the wood residues. Collect the ashes in a dry place, it will come in handy when creating fertile beds.

Usually, the layout of the orchard involves planting trees in such a way that they do not obscure the neighbors' plots, but it is not uncommon for a tree to grow near the fence itself, providing both owners and neighbors with fruits, while no one has any claims.

Today it is fashionable to give the beds an original shape, for example, a pizza garden. The highlight is that from the round beds in the center, the rest diverge like slices of pizza, forming a circle.

At the borders of the site, raspberries, blackberries or berry bushes are usually planted, which also bear fruit well in shading.

Landscaping and regular planning

Below are examples of garden planning for lovers of order and clarity of form and for those who like it when plants in an orchard are also planted according to the scheme, but give the impression of natural areas.

Landscaping involves the arrangement of trees and other crops in a free order, close to natural. In such a garden, in addition to fruit crops, decorative ones are also widely used.

An example of a free-plan garden - vegetable beds on the left and top, fruit trees planted in groups in the center and on the right

With regular planning, trees and shrubs, as well as vegetables in the garden, are planted in strict rows at the same distance. The landing pattern also has a strict geometric shape - a square for sections whose length and width are almost equal, and a rectangle for sections whose length is much greater than the width.

An example of a regular layout of a garden with a vegetable garden is a clear geometry, the site is divided into regular squares, rectangles, plants are planted in rows

Where are the best crops to plant?

These are trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in your latitudes. For middle lane these are pears, apple trees (it is advisable to plant several trees of different varieties), different varieties plums and cherry plums, cherries. Cherries and apricots will ripen in warm latitudes. Berry bushes - all varieties of currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. With a small area of \u200b\u200bthe plot, shrubs are conveniently located around the perimeter.

If you plant several apple trees, among which will be summer, autumn and winter apple tree, the fruits will delight you at different times of the year

An example of an interesting layout of the garden - paths diverge from the square of slabs in the center, between which there are beds, different crops are planted on each of the beds. Get comfortable with any of them.

On vegetable beds next you need to plant crops that grow well in close proximity to each other:

cabbage, cucumbers, peas;
white cabbage, dill, potatoes, onions, lettuce, celery;
tomatoes, peas, carrots;
horseradish, potatoes, beans, onions, cabbage.

When you draw a diagram, decide which plants to plant and in what quantity, you can start marking the garden on the ground, buy seedlings and prepare the soil.

The layout of the garden and vegetable garden will help to solve many problems for its competent arrangement and obtaining the required amount of crop. Inexperienced summer residents and gardeners, having planted their own comfortable garden, complain that there is not the required abundance of fruits and fruits that they counted on.

Option 3D layout of a plot of 15 acres with the location of the garden, house and vegetable garden

The layout of the site is considered the most important stage in its arrangement. The layout of the summer cottage and garden plot directly begins with a preliminary study of the soil where garden and garden crops are to be grown, and the climatic conditions that affect the number of fruits. If the soil is excessively clayey or with sand impurities, then you need to additionally add peat to it, feed it with black soil, other substances and fertilizers, on which it will directly depend good nutrition roots.

In the climate, the fundamental factor that negatively affects the fruiting process is:

excess moisture;
frosty winters;
spring frosts.

Therefore, it is important to select trees and crops that are most suitable for a particular region.

Sketch and layout of the garden, garden and the entire plot of 10 acres

Important aspects are the layout of the garden and the competent selection of trees. The most frost-resistant trees are locally bred. They perfectly adapt to any climatic conditions and give a good result, if not annually, then after a year. The hardiest trees are cherries, pears, apples, and plums. Apricots and peaches are considered the least resistant to frost and high humidity.

Cherry does not tolerate closely located groundwater at all, and if reclamation is not carried out in time, then in just a few years it will dry up.

Layout of the arrangement of a small suburban area

There are a variety of gardens, therefore, when choosing the required assortment of trees and plants, it is necessary to take into account their future productivity.

An example of planning a vegetable garden and a garden on a small plot

To determine how many trees to plant on garden plot, you must first mark up the summer cottage, taking into account the existing buildings. This must be done because each object casts a shadow, so when planting bushes, trees and other crops in the shade of buildings, they will not bear fruit, but will be drawn into the natural light area. This will continue until the top of the plants is slightly above the barrier that restricts access to natural light.

Therefore, on the developed plan, it is necessary to indicate the height of each existing building and the cardinal points. It should be noted that the shadow, most likely, will be located from the east and west, somewhat narrowing towards the south. It is necessary to shade the places on the diagram where the shadow is more than half a day. These places are not suitable for planting plants.

In shady places, you can lay decorative paths, equip lawns, a pond, make flower beds. In order for the trees to provide a good harvest, the shade area must be excluded from the planting plan.

How to combine a garden and a vegetable garden

The layout of the garden and the garden is considered to be a rather important stage, because it is necessary to correctly distribute the usable area. starts with the idea of the immediate arrangement of the beds, which must be perfect. If you need a garden and garden layout, then you need to make two separate schemes that will display a summer cottage at different times of the year. Thus, it is possible to achieve a more competent distribution of free space. When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account not only the area of \u200b\u200bthe summer cottage itself, but also take into account the fact that planted crops can grow over time.

Drawing and layout of a plot of 6 acres with a combination of a garden and a vegetable garden

In addition, it is worth remembering that the planting of vegetable and horticultural crops should not be done too tightly. It is necessary to consider where the garden will be located on the equipped summer cottage. Experienced gardeners recommend planting all crops on the south side, however, if this is not possible, then it is worth choosing sunny areas, but with some periods of shade.

Be sure to take into account the rules for planting each plant, its compatibility with neighboring crops, the need for natural sunlight and fertilizer, frequency of watering.

It is carried out taking into account the periods of fruiting of all available trees and shrubs. It is best to place all crops in the garden and in the garden, taking into account the periods of their full ripening. The scheme for planting all crops in the country must certainly be planned very competently. In order to think everything over correctly, you need to prepare a photo of your dacha with adjacent land.

What can be models for planning a garden and a vegetable garden

may be the most various options carrying out the planning of the garden and vegetable garden, but with each of them it is necessary to take into account:

the number of marked acres;
feature of the soil of the garden;
the required number of equipped beds.

Layout and placement of beds in a garden of 4 acres

Ideal for those who prefer the arrangement of a rather unpretentious garden and vegetable garden, which implies the use of predominantly ornamental crops and green spaces. Often such a model is a circle shape. Inside it should be exquisite beautiful flowers and other plants to fully show all their beauty.

Outside, a certain design is created, consisting of green spaces. It is best if these are low shrubs so that you can fully demonstrate the beauty of the planted flowers. If the dimensions of the summer cottage are quite impressive, then fruit trees are planted behind a semicircle, the number of which directly depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe proposed model. Enough interesting option is a rectangular shape.

Drawing and layout of the site

The peculiarity of this model implies that in this case it is necessary to plan the garden and the garden together. Often, the design of such a summer cottage involves the use square shape. The peculiarity of such a plot is that it is possible to plant as many beds of vegetables as the size of the plot allows.

Near garden crops, you can place a few berry bushes. For best view suburban area costs extra, but place them a little far from all other cultures. A feature of this layout is that with all the abundance of species, the original form remains.

Sketch and layout of landings on a plot of 5 acres

interesting and unusual option is the free planning of the available land. The shape and size of such a plot depend directly on the available acres. When developing such a scheme, one must take into account whether it is possible to combine several different crops with fruit trees.

If the area of \u200b\u200bland for the garden remains quite small, then it is best to use the method of arranging vertical beds. Tall vegetables and legumes will feel great on grids and various supports. When organizing a garden, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of crops, the need for a well-arranged natural light. In addition, it is worth considering that you do not need to plant old trees for. In this case, young seedlings are quite suitable.

How to make the best choice for arranging an orchard

Considering various kinds landscape tricks, you can competently equip your plot of land, taking into account all norms and requirements. To organize the site with your own hands, you must first correctly select the place for arranging the future orchard, select the types and varieties of trees, while taking into account the existing natural and climatic conditions in the country.

When equipping an orchard and a vegetable garden, you need to remember that the depth of groundwater should be no more than 1.5 m. Otherwise, to significantly lower the level of groundwater, you will have to make certain channels or lay drainage pipes. Trees located on a land plot with high groundwater will:

grow poorly;
give a rather low yield;
do not tolerate winter frosts;
be subject to fungal diseases.

Project and layout of the garden on a plot of 10 acres

Plants located in the country will help determine the acidity of the earth. Areas where cereals and legumes thrive are ideal for gardening. If there is a lot of sorrel on the ground in the country house, this means that the soil is quite acidic, which can adversely affect the normal fruiting of trees. You can reduce the acidity of the soil by adding lime to it. The program for arranging a garden and vegetable garden implies a preliminary study of the relief of the site.

The south side is considered the best option for arranging the garden, and the north side is the worst.

It is not necessary to place the garden on the lowest point of the land, since it is there that cold air will be concentrated, which can cause serious damage to many plants. When deciding on the location of the garden, it is necessary to take into account the orientation of the cardinal points.