Beautiful gates for the fence with their own hands. Various options for wooden gates. Wooden gates ... with an entrance portal ...

Not a single one can do without a convenient entrance suburban area or yard. But to make a gate with your own hands from corrugated board, wood or metal is not difficult at all.

Do-it-yourself gate from corrugated board

To install a gate from corrugated board with your own hands, you must:

Determine a place future gate. Immediately when installing the fence, leave an opening between the two support posts, to which the frame will be welded. So the problem of discrepancy between the size of the gate and the opening is easily solved.

Weld the transverse crossbar, which will give the structure strength. To do this, a piece of pipe is placed in the middle of the frame. Use a level to make sure it is level.

Cutting down extra parts of the frame. You should get a flat frame, without entering pipe elements. After the connections are boiled, and then cleaned using a grinding wheel.

Weld the tops loops. First, the attachment points are carefully cleaned with the help of a “grinder”, the upper loop is attached, after which the frame is hung. It remains to weld the bottom loop. At this stage, it is important to check whether the installation is performed correctly. If, when opening, the frame touches other parts of the structure, it means that a mistake was made in the gate scheme.

Fully weld hinges. The frame is removed again, and the hinges are well welded. The resulting seams need to be cleaned. If you do not want the material to suffer during welding, close the corrugated board from sparks and scale.

Do lock hole with the help of a grinder. The main thing is to make all measurements correctly and mark the right place on the frame pipe in advance.

Install striker do-it-yourself gate lock from corrugated board. It is attached to the fence post with a screwdriver. The frame is pre-installed in place. When everything is ready, check if the lock closes well.

Protect the structure from rust. To do this, it is covered with special compounds and painted.

Mount sheets corrugated board. The material is first adjusted to the dimensions of the resulting frame, then installed with a drill and a gun for rivets or self-tapping screws. Lastly, the pads and handles on the lock are mounted.

Install limiter. This is a piece of metal placed inside the opening and designed to ensure that the gate does not open too much.

In this way, a do-it-yourself gate made of corrugated board is installed immediately on the fence posts, which allows you to get a reliable and durable design without any extra effort.

Do-it-yourself wooden gate

Looks good and the gate made of wood. This design is no less durable and decorative. The steps are:

Prepare tools and materials for work. You will need boards and bars, metal corners and hinges, self-tapping screws, bolts, a drill, a level, a square, a tape measure, a socket head and a ratchet, a construction pencil. Before starting work, it is advisable to impregnate wooden blanks with an antiseptic that will protect against insects, mold and drying out.

Make the right measurements. It is necessary to determine how wide the passage will be, and then calculate the required number of boards. The frame will require bars. It is hung on supports, which are installed in advance using metal wedges. In order not to cut off later ki, carefully determine the distance between the supports before installation.

Prepare the material for the frame. The bars should be shorter than the boards for the gate by about 5-10 cm.

Assemble the frame by using metal corners and fasteners. At this stage, bolts will come in handy, the size of which should be much smaller than the width of the workpiece, which will allow you to assemble it efficiently without damaging the bars. You will get a rectangle, in the center of which a crossbar is installed.

hang frame on ready-made supports. Try on whether all structural elements converge well, then install the frame using props.

Attach to supports loops. Preliminarily set all the elements in level, and do not tighten the bolts to the end. It is enough to adjust them and tighten them up to the stop.

Mount boards gates. They are screwed to the frame with screws.

Color received wicket.

Install the top bar. Such a frame looks very decorative, and it is easy to make it: you need to place the bar a little higher than the top of the boards, placing a piece of timber between it and the support. Nail down.

Install heck. Do-it-yourself wooden gates are well suited for small metal locks, which are placed on the edge board from the opening side.

Thus, you can easily make a wooden gate with your own hands in just a few hours.

Wooden gate for giving step by step instructions with a photo

Looks great wooden gate to give - step-by-step instruction with a photo will help to make it quickly and easily. The construction will require larch boards. It is this type of wood that is preferable, since it is less prone to decay and has a decorative cut. If desired, you can replace it with pine.

Thus, it is necessary to prepare:

larch blanks measuring 2000 x 140 x 20 (10 pieces);
pine boards 2000 x 150 x 50 (2 pcs.);
loops (2 pcs.);
metal-toothed plates (6 pcs.);
brass plates (4 pcs.);
brass self-tapping screws (40 pcs.);
corner;
heck;
door handle;
priming;
protective agent;
yacht varnish;
chisel and hammer;
hacksaw;
drill;
screwdriver;
jigsaw;
plane;
bubble level;
pencil and brush;
skin;
rope.

It is advisable to sketch in advance scheme gates to get an idea of the installation steps.

The wicket is made like this:

Make from pine blanks sidewalls. Loops are attached to them.

align elements vertically using a level.

Support boards and attach to concrete poles.

Treat wood with multiple layers antiseptic and protective composition, cover with yacht varnish.

Install support bar using self-tapping screws.

Collect frame, fastening the corners with brass strips and self-tapping screws.

Strengthen the structure with metal-toothed plates, which are pressed into the tree and nailed.

Such a plate will make the gate reliable and durable.

Adjust the hinges for the gate.

mount loops on the base plate.

Insert the frame into the opening to check the fit.

Make from the board brace, which will give the structure rigidity.

Attach the brace to the frame with the plates.

The result is a strong frame for the gate.

Fix the frame to the hinges, sheathe her boards. The first workpiece is installed to the support, which is set according to the level.

There are 2 self-tapping screws for each sheathing board, 3 for corner ones.

Sew all boards.

Drill holes for self-tapping screws in advance and countersink so that the caps sink a little into the material.

mount handle. For the convenience of work, we advise you not to fix the second board from the edge yet - it is easy to reach both sides of the gate through the opening.

With a pencil and string forming a compass, draw circles at the top of the structure.

Make cuts along the lines jigsaw, process the saw cuts in the same way as the blanks, only complete with not one, but two layers of varnish.

Set brass corner, which will not allow the loops to align.

Fasten the rubber retainer with a self-tapping screw.

Such a step-by-step instruction with a photo will help to make a wooden gate for a summer residence without much difficulty.

Do-it-yourself gate schemes

Gate schemes will help to cope with the work. You can see them in the pictures.

Wicket from corrugated board photo

Do-it-yourself gate from corrugated board can be made in several ways. For example, designs are made in the same style with a fence or, conversely, contrast with it. The gate looks great in combination with brickwork or wide pillars of light stone. You can decorate it with the help of a visor over the opening, forged edging and other elements, even hang a mailbox. By connecting the imagination, it is easy to create a gate that has a strict, solid or, on the contrary, a bright and fresh look.

Wooden gate photo

To make a wooden gate with your own hands, boards or picket fences of various widths are used, there are no gaps between them or, conversely, large distances are left. The gate itself is painted in the same color as the fence, or made contrasting. Black hinges and locks are well suited to blanks with a natural wood pattern. As for the frame, it does not have to be wooden - a metal profile will do. An interesting option- wicket from shields installed horizontally

Forged gates photo

Forged gates look decorative. They have a light, airy, romantic look, which is achieved through the use of openwork weaving, mesh, metallic flowers and curls. Typically, such products are painted black, which goes well with light shades of supports. The upper edge is made semicircular, figured, or the profile is decorated with decorative peaks. Above the opening, you can install a forged openwork visor, which perfectly complements the design.

Chain link gate

For those who do not want to spend a lot of time on a fence, it is recommended to make a gate with your own hands from a chain-link. The simplest and most uncomplicated option: two supporting metal poles are built into the ground, to which an ordinary rectangular frame with a grid is fixed. All metal parts are covered with paint, except for the chain-link itself. To conveniently mount the handle, it is recommended to install a small piece of metal profile obliquely between the outer side of the frame and the cross member

Gate made of metal picket fence photo

It is easy to make a gate with your own hands from metal fence. The blanks are painted in the desired shade, mounted with gaps at the same level or in a checkerboard pattern: some are lower, others are higher. To make the gate look more interesting, you should use unusual fittings, decorative strips, self-tapping screws with large hats that stand out against the background of the material, hang a mailbox.

Modern fences can be both truly designer products and works of art, as well as the most ordinary wooden structures which inspire us with the atmosphere of the village and refined refined taste. And of course, not a single fence can do without a gate, which you can do without problems with your own hands.

Tools and materials

In order for the wooden gate to turn out to be of the highest quality and the assembly process to go smoothly and without hitches, you will need to assemble everything in advance necessary tools, as well as purchase material so that in the process of work there is no need to run to the store and buy in addition what you urgently need.

So, what tool will you definitely need:

Hacksaw for wood, for sawing wood. A good alternative would be electric jigsaw, it will be easier and faster to work with it.
Screwdriver and drill, with sets of drills and bits for screwing in self-tapping screws.
Just in case, a screwdriver, hammer and pliers.
Roulette, pencil, square.
Building level.
Shovel for earthworks.
Glue for wood.
And of course, screws and nails.
Hinges, lock and handles.

From the materials you need to prepare boards, slats, bars, several large beams for poles that are suitable for you. As you can see, there are not too many tools and materials, and all of them are easy to assemble, even if there are problems with the purchase, you can always find something from neighbors, friends, or just rent it.

On gates and gates made of wood, pine or larch is most often used; the second is preferable because it is extremely resistant to decay.

Choosing a design

A wooden gate can be the most diverse, here everything is limited only by your personal imagination. On the Internet, you can find hundreds of different options for how to decorate a wooden gate, what shape to make it, what to use for decoration, and so on.

If we take a general classification, then we can distinguish a number of the following varieties of wicket designs:

Solid - the level of visibility of the site through such a structure is zero.
Viewable - from the name it is clear that such a gate has gaps through which you can easily see everything that is on the site.
Frameless - such gates do not have a frame, all rails are fastened with jumpers.
Gate with a frame - there is a frame and all the elements are fixed on it.
Straight options - are made in the form of a square or rectangle, have straight shapes without cutouts and other things.
Decorative carved models are very beautiful, but difficult to manufacture products.

Choosing the right one for yourself is not so easy, but you can choose exactly the gate that will fit into your interior as accurately as possible and perfectly fulfill all your wishes.

If you cannot find a suitable ready-made option, try drawing an acceptable model yourself, and then bring the sketch to life.

We assemble the gate from scratch

The entire installation process should be divided into separate stages, then the work will move better and faster. We have compiled a small step by step plan, which will help you navigate and on it you will know exactly where to start the assembly.

When specifying the size of the frame, leave a margin on both sides. This is necessary so that the gate can open freely. And secondly, the tree can gain moisture and swell during rain and in wet weather.

So, what are the installation steps you need to go through:

Installation and fixing of pillars.
Assembling the frame for the gate using the "thorn" methods.
Installation of gates on poles.
Production of complex architectural elements and forms.

We install poles

He begins the process of fixing the supports with earthworks, for which we have prepared a shovel in advance. We dig a hole as small as possible in diameter, which only allows a bayonet shovel. The depth should be about seventy centimeters, this depth will be enough to keep the gate stationary even with frequent use.

Installation of poles must be done by at least two people. Hold the post, controlling its position along the plumb line and fill the hole with rubble.

Then we install beams there and wedged with boards, bars, stones or any other solid materials.

After the tables are installed and wedged, we carefully double-check the evenness and installation with a level and proceed to falling asleep with earth. It is best to thoroughly dry and crush the excavated soil. Then it is filled up as much as possible, compacted and spilled with water several times, as the pit is filled. Subsequently, you get a pole that will easily stand for many years and remain reliable support for your gate.

We make a connection in a spike

Since the gate is the front of your fence, stacking board on board and twisting them into a frame is not a viable solution. Here you need to work more carefully and work a little harder. An excellent option would be to make a connection into a spike, that is, one board, the spike will go into the groove on the second. This is quite easy to do, but you will need to work hard and do some pretty painstaking work.

First, he will make a spike for our frame. We take a board, note what size the spike will be and make two cuts on both sides of the board at the beginning of the spike. Then, using a hammer and a sharpened metal plate or chisel, gently knock down the excess so that only the middle remains. Then we level the surface with an emery, file or grinder.

The wicket frame must be checked for geometric dimensions. The corners of the wicket frame must be 90 degrees.

In order to make a groove, you will need a grinder or a milling cutter, if the first is easy to find, then the second is quite problematic. Cut two recesses to the width of the spike, then with the same chisel knock out the resulting middle. We grind and we can proceed to the connection.

In order for the boards to be securely fastened, we smear both elements with glue, then we connect and leave to dry, while catching some kind of load.

Wicket installation

To install the gate, simply screw the hinges onto the pole and install the lock, after which the gate can be used immediately. The lock clings in the closed position, so you will do the job more accurately, and it is guaranteed not to jam.

Complex architectural forms

To give the gate a more attractive look, you can round the top, decorate it with bends and other elements. To do this, we need an electric jigsaw, a pencil and cardboard or plywood.

Start by drawing an exact line on the cardboard, what shape you want to give to the future gate, and then cut out this stencil. Having attached the cardboard to the gate, begin to carefully walk along it with a jigsaw, after which the cut edges should be sanded and painted or varnished.

Required fittings

In order for the gate to work properly, you should choose the right fittings for it. For outdoor installation, there must be special hinges that do not corrode, do not freeze in severe frost, withstand high blood pressure and have a fairly easy move, even in the case when a weighty structure is installed on them.

The lock and handle should be selected based on the same indicators so that they do not rust, are durable and do not freeze.

As soon as the gate is exposed, mark the holes for attaching the hinges to the frame and to the post. Do this carefully without changing position, then attach the loops.

Coloring the structure

Before you start painting, you should do a number of preparatory work. To begin with, wooden gates are carefully sanded or sanded with sandpaper. Then it is wiped from the formed dust. Any flaws such as dents should be repaired immediately with a special wood putty. After that, it is necessary to carefully open the wood with a special primer for outdoor work and wood.

It is best to apply the primer in two layers, then the effect will be much better. After complete drying, you can start painting the structure or opening it with any varnish. Paint and varnish should also be applied in two or even three layers, then the color will be better and more saturated.

If the gate with your own hands will be mounted for an already existing fence, then you must certainly take into account the material for the manufacture of the erected fence. You should also carefully study all the features of the installation technology. At the same time, it is not at all difficult to make a gate with your own hands.

Variety of models

Therefore, the manufacture of gates, as a rule, is made of metal and wood. Plastic elements can be used as an addition to finish the finished design of the entrance gate.

Drawing of a product from a profiled sheet

If entrance structure will open outward, the door hinges will have to be fixed on the street, this will greatly facilitate intruders entering the site. If for some reason the product can only be made with an outward opening, anti-burglary wicket hinges must be installed on the door.

Do-it-yourself drawing for assembling gates and wickets from profiled sheet

The width of the gate is taken from the calculation of no more than 800-1100 mm. Narrowing to 650–750 mm is undesirable: people will pass through this entrance in outerwear. If the canvas is wide, the open gate from strong wind hitting a fence can be damaged.

Sketch of the constituent elements

The height of the gate is calculated taking into account the size of the fence, but the vertical parameter should not be more than 2 meters. When creating a drawing, snow and icing of the fence should also be taken into account. Between the doors and the pipe, where the hinges are located, you need to leave a distance of 5 mm, to the ground level - 90 mm, on the remaining sides - 3 mm.

Scheme of installation of wooden gates and gates

In order not to install an extra support post between one of the gate leaves and the gate, they put a common pipe: wicket hinges are welded from one part of the support, and gate hinges from the second. The common pole is usually metal, the opposite support can be wooden.

Reinforced support is also required if the door is built into swing or sliding gate leaves.

An example of a forged structure

It is undesirable to install pillars in the form of an asbestos-cement pipe filled with concrete mortar, as is often recommended - the support will turn out to be fragile. Gate posts are not piles, they are subject to instantaneous dynamic loads. Without a solid foundation, support pillars holding the structure front door, crack quickly.

Scheme for the formation of basic elements with your own hands

Door racks are most often made in 1 brick. To support the gate, laying one and a half bricks will be required if the doors are up to 1.5 m. Supports with laying in 2 bricks are made if the gate is higher than 1.5 m. Also, for very tall buildings, a three-row ligation of seams is used.

Do-it-yourself scheme for installing a support post

How to make a gate in a fence

When choosing a suitable location for arranging the design of the front door in the country, the basic principles are taken into account. For example, you need to think about how to organize a convenient approach to a garage or outbuildings in a summer cottage. Consider whether there are holes nearby. If depressions are present near the front door, then water and dirt will certainly collect here.

Creation option

Do not assume that you can build only one gate in the country. You can install multiple. For example, one will be used as the front entrance, and the other will be the rear, designed to reduce the distance to the required object.

Harmony of brick and forging

Eat various ways arrangement of the front door, but, one way or another, it must correctly fit into the design of the fence and the backyard. Therefore, it is necessary to pay great attention to the choice of building materials, door assembly and decorative elements.

The combination of forging with profiled sheet

Among the most popular are the following door designs, which differ in the material used, appearance, structure:

Metal entrance doors. They consist of forged patterns, they look quite beautiful, they are used in the construction of a fence with the same decor.
Eurostudent allows you to give the door leaf an original design. Complementing the design of the door with carved wooden poles, it can be installed as an internal fence that will separate the adjacent territory.
Metal profile products are best suited for fences that have a similar design.
The panel structure looks great with a stone or brick masonry fence.

European fence construction

You will also need additional accessories. For any door design, the following accessories may be needed:

automatic or manual latch;
cloth closer;
double-sided loop;
bolt;
electric drive;
patch loop;
lock (mechanical or electromagnetic);
latch with a ring;
constipation.

Design version of the fence with a gate

Design options for wooden entrance gates

During the manufacture of any structure, the choice of lumber is of no small importance. It is advisable to choose deciduous or coniferous varieties. Larch is the most durable material. Because if it matters long time operation, purchase this particular variety.

Moreover, the thickness of the board for assembling the door leaf should be the same.

Types of models of entrance groups

Picket fence products

Doors that are small in height or protected from the wind are best made of wood according to the frame scheme. For standard canvases, the frame of the entrance gate is made of a board measuring 35x140 cm, the main planks are 20x80 cm. The support should be made in a Z-shape.

Sketch of a model from a wooden picket fence

If the filling of the door leaf is unable to withstand increased loads, the frame must be made in the form of an hourglass (X-shaped supporting structure) or a "butterfly". In the latter case, under the crate of 15x25 mm bars, 2 crossbars are installed horizontally at the top and bottom, the X-shaped structure is framed around the entire perimeter. For a door stretched in height, it is better to make an E-shaped frame.

Load distribution scheme

garden gate

As a rule, canvases are made with an openwork pattern. To ensure good strength, it is better to make a frame gate. The elements at the joints are cut into half a tree and secured with several diagonally mounted screws.

Scheme of the gate assembly steps

Beautiful frame products will be obtained from the wings interior structures entrance doors under small glazing.

Scheme of a tongue-and-groove board

To fill the door frame, you will need a grooved board 35x100 mm. The size of the frame is chosen so that a whole number of boards can fit in the span, not taking into account the height of the tongue. A groove is required around the perimeter. Overhead hinges for the gate can be installed shortened, the so-called semi-barn. It is undesirable to install card hinges for the front door.

Sketch of laying composite products

Since high humidity quickly destroys wood, it is advisable to protect it with a polycarbonate canopy mounted on top. This way you can extend the service life. If desired, the visor can be installed not only on the door, but also around the entire perimeter of the fence.

Protective canopy

The design of the entrance gate "arrow"

On the backyard territory, the design of the gate in the form of an arrow looks very beautiful. For manufacturing you will need the following:

plywood 6–7 mm thick;
screwdriver;
jigsaw.

Classic size drawing

You need 12 pieces in total, six on each side. If it is packaging plywood, before making the arrow, the wooden elements must be impregnated with a water-polymer composition. The "legs" of the two middle elements are shortened by approximately 10 centimeters for installation on a spike.

The scheme of the formation of the pommel

The lancet gate is fixed on PVA and self-tapping screws. First, you need to assemble four front elements, including those made under the spike, after which two back ones are fixed to them. Connect the elements with a "snake" with an interval of 90–160 mm.

Straight "legs" of the product can be made shorter, taking into account the chosen design. At the upper ends of the vertical elements for fastening the arrow, you need to cut a spike.

Standard drawing for creating an entrance group

Pergola type construction

A pergola is an entrance that does not have a roof or walls. For example, the entrance structure of a pergola can be made in the form of a tunnel where climbing plants are located.

The traditional entrance structure, a colonnade with several rows, is simply topped with crossed boards. It became popular thanks to the residents Ancient Greece, however, they came up with this type of entrance gate in Persia. Such a portal was used for shrines and palaces.

Do-it-yourself design sketch

A structure of this type has a powerful psychological effect of dominance, which also affects the owner. In the East, the pergola was used to suppress the pride of visitors before they approached the royal throne. Therefore, it is undesirable to install a pergola as an entrance to the house.

Design example

If, taking into account the design, it is necessary to build a classic pergola, it will need to be made visually light, and it is desirable to decorate the fence and structure with an openwork ornament and install it in height below the level of the pergola.

Openness minimizes structure dominance.

Photo of a successful solution finished structures the entrance door to the cottage is presented below.

Construction scheme

The structure of the entrance gate made of metal must be fastened to profile pipes 60x60x3 mm, which are dug to a depth of 1 m. Mark the area and the points of attachment of the supports. Cut with a grinder the required size of the post plus 1 meter.

Drawing of a swing gate with an additional gate

Dig holes for supports. The width of the supports must be greater than the section of the professional pipe by 15 centimeters. Then mix cement mortar. Insert a pole, cover with a layer of fine gravel (about 20 centimeters), tamp, then the pit must be completely filled with mortar. At the heart of the frame is a metal profile - a corner or a square professional pipe 55x55x3 mm. A frame is assembled from a pipe by welding.

Mounting diagram

Taking into account the created sketch of the frame, cut the blanks of the required size from a long profile. Lay the parts on the table, connect with a welding machine. For better rigidity of the frame, fix the cross braces. The frame must be spot welded. This will save time for the assembly of the structure.

Scheme for creating a frame

The last stage is the fastening of the profiled sheet to the door frame. Cut out the door leaf required size. Remove burrs from cut areas. Fix the cut sheet. The connection of the corrugated board with the wicket frame is carried out by welding using the continuous seam method.

If the gate is the face of the house, then the gate is a smile on it. Even if it is somewhere inside and leads to the garden. Do-it-yourself wicket - a welcoming and relaxed smile. Therefore, it is necessary to treat the manufacture of this generally unpretentious product diligently and with soul.

materials

Here the choice is not so rich. Plastic sections of the fence, gate leaves and wickets are durable, can be quite attractive and do not require preliminary earthworks, but, alas, they are not fire resistant and do not resist vandalism: it is easy to stick into the ground - it is easy to pull out from there. Outside of production conditions, plastics are low-tech and labor-intensive, therefore do-it-yourself gates and are most often made of wood and metal. In this case, plastic can be used as an auxiliary and finishing material, which is discussed below.

Note: fittings will also be required for gates and gates. To make it yourself (the fittings are not structurally complicated) or to buy it is a master's business. What to choose sensibly or take as a sample, see fig. right below. Something in addition, if and where necessary, see later in the course of the presentation.

In general about the design

It is customary to make the entrance gate open inwards. This is necessary, first of all, for the safety of both visitors and hosts: moving away from the swinging sash, the guest runs the risk of getting his shoes into the mud, or even crashing onto the roadway. Also, if the gate opens outward, then the hinge hinges will be on the street, which will facilitate the work of potential intruders. If the swing gate can be made to open only outwards, anti-burglary hinges must be installed, and either a viewing window should be made in the sash, or an intercom should be installed at the entrance.

The width of the gate leaf (sashes without hinges and locks) is taken as for interior doors - 750-1000 mm. Narrow its leaf to 600-650 mm, as for doors to utility rooms and places common use, it is impossible: they pass through the gate in outerwear. If you make it wider, then accidentally unlocked, it can slam in the wind so that the loops will turn out. The height of the gate is taken according to the height of the fence, but for the same wind reasons, not more than the height of the passage above the stairs, i.e. 1.9-2 m. Between the leaf of the gate, the pole on which it is hung, and other framing elements, a gap of 6 mm from the side of the hinges, from 80 mm at the bottom and from 2 mm along other 2 sides.

In order not to put extra poles, which in this case is the most time-consuming, one of the gates is often made common with the gate: gate hinges are attached to it on one side, and gate hinges on the other. The "backbone" of this pillar in any case should be steel, although a wooden pillar is also possible for the opposite collar. A reinforced common post is also required if the gate is built into the gate. Then you need to take into account something else, see below.

Note: it is impossible to make gate pillars in the form of an asbestos-cement pipe concreted and filled with concrete, as is sometimes advised - the entire pillar turns out to be fragile. Remember - the gate pillars are not piles, they are subject to fast alternating dynamic loads, and without an elastic base, the pillars will either crack or loosen pretty soon.

If the fence posts are solid brick, then the gates must be laid in 1.5 bricks with a gate height of up to 1.6 m and in 2 bricks with a higher height, using special schemes (orders) of 3-row dressing of seams for corner fence posts, see fig. .

Cause it requires enough great experience bricklayer, but steel embedded parts for attaching hinges still do not always hold securely. So it would be better to make brick gate posts by folding them around a steel pipe ridge according to a simplified masonry pattern for intermediate fence posts; rows of masonry then simply alternate in mirror image.

Brick in this case is more decorative material, so that you can use a fragile, but beautiful facing: a pipe with a diameter of up to 120 mm will enter the central clearance of the column. Mortgages, which have now become just overlays, are connected to it with pieces of reinforcing bars for welding, see fig. on right. The locations of the mortgages and their connections with the ridge must be calculated in advance so that they fall on the masonry joints, otherwise you will have to hammer grooves in the bricks. The pipe-line is being concreted "in full", not less than 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth in the area.

Note: in general, the erection and fixing of pillars and columns in the ground is a special branch of the construction industry. Concreting here requires particularly reliable. For gates and gates, it can be simplified using the techniques of TISE technology, see for example. video below. By the way, the idea of the authors is really good, but it is still not necessary to prime the concreted parts of steel parts. And we will return to the gate as such.

Video: concreting pillars for gates and gates

About corrugated board

A gate made of corrugated board is good not only due to the availability of material, speed and manufacturability, but also because the corrugated steel sheet gives the sheet additional strength. It is believed that the appearance is utilitarian. However, gates with corrugated boarding gates can be improved in various ways, see below.

wooden gates

Simple fence and rack

Cloths of gates of small height, or openwork, or located in places sufficiently protected from gusts of wind, are made of wood according to the so-called. frame scheme, although in truth it is not a frame, but with a load-bearing sheathing: the entire canvas acquires design rigidity only when overhead strips are installed on the “frame”. For gates of ordinary sizes, the supporting supporting elements are made of boards (30-40) x (130-150), and overhead strips are also made of boards (15-25) x (60-100). In this case, the "frame" is made in a Z-shaped pattern, pos. 1 and 2 in fig.

wooden gates

If the decorative filling is very subtle and is not capable of carrying loads, the frame is made into a “butterfly” or “hourglass”, in the form of an X-shaped support with crossbars along the edges. In the "butterfly" under the crate of slats from 10x20 mm, 2 horizontal crossbars are placed, at the top and bottom, and the "hourglass", pos. 3, for any, even film, finish, framed on all sides. Such gates are more labor-intensive, because the support boards at the crosshairs cut into half a tree, and the hourglass must also be cut into the frame.

For a gate extended in height, the E-shaped support structure, pos. 4. A special case is a wattle gate. The wattle thing is quite strong and tough, but not for twisting diagonally. In the gate, the earth does not hold him back, so the wattle gate is reinforced with an Λ-shaped support. It is enough to reinforce only the lower half in this way, pos. 5, this does not deprive the wattle gate of a rustic look, especially when the wood darkens.

Garden and rustic

The garden gate is most often not designed uniformly and is openwork. Then, in order to ensure the rigidity and strength of the canvas, it is made framed: all the loads are taken over by a frame made of timber from 40x100. Its parts at the joints are cut into half a tree with waterproof glue and pulled together with pairs of diagonally located screws. Excellent frame gates are obtained from the wings of old doors and windows for fine glazing, pos. 1 in fig. Under an oblique lath crate without a tie-in at the crosshairs, the corners of the frame are additionally reinforced with scarves from the board (15-30) x (80-150), pos. 2. Sections of the frame for heterogeneous decorative filling are separated by crossbars, pos. 4 and 5.

Solid input

Particularly durable, and when impregnated with fire retardants, synthetic resins and made of hardwood and vandal-proof, there will be a wooden panel gate, see fig. left. In this case, the frame is made of timber from 50x150, and its details are connected in the corners into a tenon-groove. A grooved board from (30-40)x100 is used for filling. The dimensions of the frame are taken such that an integer number of boards fit in its window without taking into account the height of the tongue crest. Inside the frame along the contour, a groove is selected; one of the extreme boards enters it with a tongue tongue, and the tongue groove of the opposite one is connected to the frame groove with dowels (lamellae).

Note: overhead hinges of frame and shield gates can be shortened, see fig. on the right, so-called. semi-barn (overhead loops of full length - granary). You can't use card loops anyway.

Wicket - arrow

In the garden, a wooden lancet gate looks especially elegant, see for example. photo in fig. on right. The gate-arrow is considered quite laborious, but in fact it is not difficult to make it for a novice master. The material is enough for a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 5-6 mm, and from a special tool you will need a jigsaw and, preferably, a screwdriver.

The scheme of cutting the material and assembling the lancet top of the gate is shown in fig. below. You will need 12 pieces in total, 6 per side. 4 medium ones, if necessary, are narrowed from the inside under the decorative filling (shown by the dotted line). Before assembling the boom, all blanks are impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion, if the plywood is ordinary construction or packaging. The "legs" of the 2 middle parts are shortened by about 100 mm to fit on the spike.

An lancet pommel is assembled on PVA glue and small notched nails or self-tapping screws. Fastener length 20mm for 5mm plywood and 24mm for 6mm plywood. First, 4 front parts are assembled, including those shortened for a spike, and then 2 remaining back parts are attached to them. The parts are knocked down / screwed together with a “snake” (zigzag) in increments of 80-150 mm with an indent from the edge of 30-40 mm. The back "snake" should be a mirror image of the front.

The straight legs of the "boom" can be shortened according to the overall design of the gate. At the upper ends of its vertical posts, a spike is cut out for landing an arrow. They plant an arrow on the same PVA and reinforce it with 4 diagonal pairs of self-tapping screws, 2 each in front and behind. The back pairs should be a mirror image of the front ones.

Wicket and pergola

A pergola in a general sense is a building without walls and a roof. For example, a garden pergola may simply be a trellis tunnel through which vines are planted. The classic pergola, a colonnade in 2 more rows, crowned with crossed beams, became known in Europe thanks to the ancient Greeks, but was invented either in Ancient Egypt, whether in Persia for palaces and temples.

The fact is that a classic pergola gives a rather strong psychological effect of dominance of the structure and, accordingly, of its owner. In the despotic East, the pergola was supposed to suppress the pride of the visitor before he approached the throne or altar. Unfortunately, there is no way to go into the subtleties of why this is so, but this effect is quite objective, like the pacifying effect of a pond mirror with water lilies or thoughts of abundance inspired by a lush flower bed.

Therefore, to supply the entrance gate with a monumental pergola, as in pos. 1 fig., it’s better not to: the guest may turn out to be a person on whom the course of your affairs depends. And then he will not know why he lost loyalty to you, and to you - why everything suddenly went to pieces.

In less authoritarian Europe, this was immediately understood, and the pergola, wrapped in flowers to soften the pressure, was moved to a resting corner of the garden, where guests are allowed at the owner's choice. In addition, as soon as the arch was invented, they began to crown the pergola with it, pos. 2; rounded pommel significantly softens the effect of dominance. In the chambers, the pergola was replaced by an enfilade, inspiring a sense of grandeur, without humiliating dignity.

If the overall design still requires a classic pergola at the entrance, then it should be made visually as light as possible, and the fence and gate should be openwork and as low as possible, pos. 3. Openness will negate the dominance of the pergola. Another option is a single-row pergola, somewhat stylized as a Buddhist-Shinto shrine, pos. 4. It evokes a feeling of belittling weaker and it is already associated with higher powers That doesn't hurt anyone in their right mind.

Metal gates

basis metal gate is a metal profile; usually square. steel pipe 60x60(2-3). A rectangular frame is welded from it according to the size of the gate leaf. For reinforcement under corrugated sheathing, the 1st cross member from the same pipe, located in the middle of the web height, is sufficient. If round is used water pipe, to strengthen under the profiled sheet, you need to put a diagonal stiffener and strengthen the corners with scarves from 200x200 to 300x300 from a steel sheet of 3-5 mm. In this case, when sheathing with a sheet 1.5 mm thick with a wave of 15x150, it is possible to bring the width of the leaf up to 1.5 m, this is already a real gate leaf, see fig.

How is the metal gate arranged for any other decorative filling, incl. and wooden, see fig. below: the frame is additionally reinforced with the same cross member, but from a professional pipe 40x25 (1.5-2), and 2 struts from the middle to the outer corners.

The reinforcement elements are edge-welded to the frame flush with the inner plane of the frame, this will give a recess for mounting the filling. Under it, from small parts (for example, a rack grate), the same pipe 40x25 (1.5-2), or a steel corner, is mounted inside along the contour of the frame.

A gate of this design, sheathed with scraps of metal siding, looks pretty decent, see fig. on right. And for the cladding of a garden or other, to which vandals cannot reach, the remains of any external finishing material: plastic lining, blockhouse, etc.

Note: the steel wing of the gate weighs more than 20 kg even without sheathing. Therefore, bearing in mind the same sudden wind loads, loops for it need to be taken garage, see fig. left. For the gate, loops with a diameter of (16-20)x120 with a ball stop are sufficient. More powerful on the support bearing, of course, will not interfere.

The “most complete” scheme for reinforcing a metal gate, designed for any sheathing and for operation in the most severe conditions, turns out to be not much more material and time-consuming: it comes down to a short additional brace at each corner and mounting the gate on a separate post. Frame drawing metal gate with a gate for all occasions is shown in fig. below.

The manufacture of such gates with a gate has some peculiarities, namely: first the gate itself is made, with precise installation of the pillars, checking for opening and closing, etc. Then there is a technological break of 20 days, until the concrete foundations of the gate pillars gain 75% strength; meanwhile, you can make a gate with a pillar. Its canvas is temporarily fixed tightly in the closed state with bolts or clamps. Sheathing gates and gates are not yet done.

A pillar with a gate is placed in the well;
Align vertically in the transverse plane, fixing with wooden liners;
The gate leaf is moved to the gate post, solid gaskets are placed under its edge, providing the necessary operational clearance, see above, and fixed with clamps;
The wicket post is set vertically in the longitudinal plane, simultaneously controlling whether the installation has gone astray in the transverse plane, i.e. use 2 plumb lines;
The wicket post is finally fixed and concreted;
Sheathing of all sashes and installation of fittings is carried out no earlier than 7 days (at +18 in the shade) after the concrete has set in the foundation of the wicket column.

Wicket at the gate

Lots of work and a lot Money will save the gate with a gate built into the gate leaf. True, this applies only to metal swing gates. Wicket built into sliding or lifting gate, so complicates them independent production, which is perhaps better to put an additional pole. If the gate is hinged, then the gate in their leaf is made according to the following rules, see on the right in fig. below:

The pillar adjacent to the gate is made of reinforced steel (pipe from 100x100x4) and concreted for at least 1.2 m, regardless of the freezing depth.
The width of the gate leaf is made no more than half the width of the gate leaf.
The scheme of reinforcing the gate leaves is preserved, but on the gate with the gate it seems to be compressed horizontally.
The wicket frame is made with a cross member from the main pipe (60x60x3) and a pair of diagonal stiffening ribs from the 40x25x pipe from the middle to the outer corners.

With wooden gates, the situation is somewhat more complicated: putting a gate in the leaf of a wooden gate without losing overall strength is only possible if the gate is made of durable solid (and expensive) wood. If the gate is made of ordinary coniferous wood, then the gate must be hung nearby, and the pole common to it and the gate must be steel, concreted to full depth. In both cases, gate leaves and wickets are framed with additional diagonal stiffening (see left in the figure) from timber from 150x50.

Different wicket differences

Portal

The portal of the gate is not necessarily a pergola, it has only recently come into fashion. Most often, a canopy (visor) is made over the gate from the rain, on the left in fig. He does not require extra space outside (which is no longer the property of the owner), but it is convenient for the guest, and there is reason to respect the owner. According to the old rules of hospitality, it was considered good tone if the portal-canopy of the gate is brought out at least 3-4 feet (approx. 0.9-1.2 m). Inside - as much as you like, even a continuous tunnel to the porch.

Note: from modern materials for the roof of the portal-canopy is best suited cellular polycarbonate. relatively inexpensive, technologically available for making with your own hands, strong, durable, aesthetically well consistent with a fence, gates and gates made of any material or combinations thereof.

The second type of wicket portals is constructive and technological. These are designed primarily to ensure the strength of the capital stone fence, right there. It is not forbidden to equip the capital portal of the gate with a canopy by anyone, anywhere.

Fences with gates and wickets made of mesh are not very aesthetic, they don’t block anything from view, but they are inexpensive, technologically uncomplicated, less labor-intensive and more maintainable than others. Therefore, they are most often fenced in household yards, premises for productive pets, etc. For sheathing the fence, the chain-link mesh is mainly used as it is more technologically advanced and durable.

The peculiarity of gate leaves and wickets made of mesh is that the sheathing, on the one hand, is not capable of bearing any load; on the other hand, it is freely blown and gives very little wind loads. Therefore, the sash frames can be made from a corner from 40x40 for a gate and from 60x60 for a gate. But in both cases, the reinforcement should be in the form of at least the 1st full diagonal connection, as in a gate on a frame made of a round pipe, from the same corner, see fig. Gate posts - round pipe from 100 mm in diameter or square from 60x60x3.

Forged gates

A good custom-made hand-forged gate, on the left in the figure, will cost at current prices hardly cheaper than 35-40 thousand rubles. And yet, a forged gate, and a unique one, for a middle-class householder may not be such an inaccessible luxury at all.

Blacksmiths don't make lazy people. Blacksmith craftsmen in their free time gradually forge monograms, flowers, etc. from the remains and scraps. for sale. Big work will either be, or not, but small forged decorative elements will always find a market. Here you can buy them at reasonable prices. There is also a decor for gates with wickets, forged (more precisely, stamped) under production conditions, but such products of the same type are all the same, and handmade is handmade.

The gate, sheathed with the most utilitarian smooth steel sheet, with piece forging superimposed on it, takes on a completely different look, in the center in fig. Forging is especially well combined with wood. Look at the right in Fig. To give respectability to a completely unpretentious picket gate on a Z-frame, just 3 small forged parts are enough. That's really cheap and cheerful.

The gate performs an important function. But in addition to protecting against intruders, the gate can serve as a great addition. suburban area. There are many building materials from which you can make a gate with your own hands. This article talks about a few simple technologies.

To equip a wooden gate, you will need the following building materials:

ten larch boards 2000 × 140 × 20;
two pine boards 2000 × 150 × 50;
two hinges, latch and door handle;
six metal gear plates;
four brass plates and one corner;
about forty pieces of brass screws;
a can of primer for wood;
protective agent bank;
one can of varnish.

For successful work, you need to acquire the following tool:

chisel with a hammer;
hacksaw for wood;
planer;
drill;
electric jigsaw;
sandpaper, pencil, piece of string and level.

For fastening the gate, it is most convenient to use two concrete pillars. Work begins with the manufacture of two sidewalls from pine boards, on which your gate will be fixed. After aligning the boards vertically (using a level), you can use self-tapping screws to fix both sidewalls on the support pillars.

Then we proceed to the assembly of the frame, which is assembled from four well-painted larch boards. The corners of the structure are reinforced with corrosion-protected strips mounted on self-tapping screws.

In order to make the entire resulting structure more rigid, special-shaped metal-toothed plates can be used, which should be slightly sunk into the wood during installation. Now you can install the hinges of the future gate on the previously prepared support frame.

After checking the entry of the finished frame into the opening of the gate, you can proceed to the manufacture of a special brace, which gives additional rigidity to the entire assembled structure. This strut is fixed on the base with the help of the same metal-toothed plates.

We attach the finished frame to the hinges and install the first sheathing board on it. Each of the installed boards must be fixed with at least two self-tapping screws, and the corner boards - with three. At the same time, a hole should be drilled under each self-tapping screw and countersunk it so that the head can be drowned.

Then a handle and a valve are installed, and an oval of the upper cut of the boards is drawn along the top of the boards with a rope (used as a compass) and a pencil. Cutting the boards along this oval is carried out using an electric jigsaw.

Wicket with gate

It is not always possible to install the gate separately from the gate. In this case, you can install a gate in the gate. Considering this type of construction, we will learn how to do it using corrugated board:

First of all, install the support pillars on which the gate leaves will be attached. Given the large load on the poles, their fasteners must be of high quality. For this reason, support posts should be tied to the main fence structure.
Now you can assemble the frame. Divide the total width of the opening into two equal parts. For the construction of the frame, you can use a profile pipe. This is an excellent material, as it is light in weight.
To fasten the profiled sheets to be symmetrical, place all horizontal guides at the same level in the frame.
In the section of the gate you have chosen, leave an opening for installing the gate. To do this, from the side of the frame of the wings fixed to the pole, weld a vertical guide from profile pipe. It is this guide that will hold the gate in the future.
The gate is made according to the given dimensions. At the same time, keep in mind that they must match up to millimeters. Therefore, several times check all measurements that relate to the opening for the gate.
Now that the wicket frame is ready, it is necessary to install the hinges on the gate frame and on the wicket itself. It is important here to avoid distortion. Therefore, it is better to lay the gate frame and wickets on a horizontal surface. Place the gate in its place and attach the hinges. Make marks at the intended installation sites for the hinges.
As for the hinges on the supporting pillars and on the frame of the gate structure, the situation is different here. Make appropriate markings on the posts, which will indicate the location of the gate. After, retreat 250 mm from each mark and fasten one half of the loops. Now go to the markings on the gate frame and mark the location of the second half of the loop. When doing this, take into account the distance calculated on the supports.

To simplify this task, you can prepare a special mounting plate in advance, which is welded to the hinge.

When the gate with a gate is installed on hinges, it remains to sheathe the frame with corrugated board.

If you do not want to carry out such a combination, then you can sew up the frame of the gate with completely monolithic polycarbonate.

As you can see from this article, there are many options for how and from what to make a gate. You can make your own experiments, combine different materials. The main thing is that the result is a beautiful gate that will be a great addition to the fence and your home.

Video

Photo

In the photo you can find a lot of ideas for making a gate: