Do-it-yourself greenhouse frame from a profiled pipe. We build a double-slope greenhouse from a profile pipe according to the drawing. Instructions for building a greenhouse from a profile pipe

To take advantage of all the benefits of garden plot, even at the stage of its design, it makes sense to pay special attention to the choice of materials for and walls.

The durability of the greenhouse will depend on the strength of the frame, and the health of the plants will depend on the properties. The best combination of these requirements demonstrates pair "profile pipe /".

Features of a greenhouse on a frame made of profile pipes
It transmits almost the entire spectrum of solar radiation, due to the presence of an air gap, it perfectly retains heat and is absolutely insensitive to the level of humidity.
At the same time, the rigidity of polycarbonate does not mean the possibility of building frameless greenhouses. Under their own weight, plastic sheets will quickly begin to sag, their edges will begin to crumble, and cracks will run along the surface of the panels. Therefore, the presence of a frame is vital.
Metal profile pipe has a number of advantages before other frame materials:
high mechanical strength allows not only to easily withstand the entire plastic walls greenhouses, but also resist snow loads up to 300 kg/sq.m.;
a rigid metal frame eliminates the problem of placing powerful lighting and heating equipment necessary for the operation of a greenhouse in winter;
assembly, disassembly and maintenance take a minimum of time.

Of the shortcomings there is only a slight increase in the cost of materials, as well as the need to use a special tool for creating arc structures.
Greenhouses are made from different material and they may have different equipment. On our site you will find many useful information about the most different designs and equipment for greenhouses.
However, it remains to be taken into account. Excess moisture in the greenhouse will not lead to anything good, so the soil under it should be as dry as possible. Usually the driest soils are those with a high content of sand. The abundance of clay can signal high risk waterlogging.
Greenhouses are oriented to the cardinal points so that one long side they look south. Thus, it will be possible to capture sunlight at a large angle, excluding its reflection from the mirror-smooth polycarbonate.
Having decided on the place, you can start to determining the dimensions of the greenhouse and making a drawing. It is not recommended to refuse the latter, since it is impossible to fulfill the plan without errors without a paper diagram indicating all sizes.
When calculating a gable roof, its angle cannot be made too steep. This can lead to an increase in the percentage of reflected solar radiation and a decrease in the efficiency of the greenhouse.
Greenhouse dimensions and the dimensions of its individual elements are chosen not only taking into account their own desires, but also based on the actual length of the available material. The less scraps left, the cheaper the greenhouse will be.
Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of polycarbonate (drawing) from profile pipe.

Construction technology
How to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands from a profile pipe? All work is divided into several stages:
Markup. Marking is carried out using pegs and string stretched between them along the perimeter of the future greenhouse. In the future, this design will help not to make a mistake when building the foundation.
The fully assembled metal frame is highly resistant to torsion, although it has minimal vertical support.
These features make the best choice in favor of columnar asbestos-cement pipes. It is set up as follows:

according to the marking in the ground, pits are drilled;
cuts of asbestos-cement pipes are lowered into the resulting holes;
the free space between the pipe and the walls of the pit is filled with sand or soil (with a rammer);
the pipe is filled with concrete mortar;
in the upper cut, a piece of a metal plate or reinforcement is immersed in concrete. These elements will be needed to link the greenhouse frame with.

Frame assembly. It starts with the assembly of the end walls of the greenhouse. Individual elements can be connected either by welding or by using connecting tees, angles or couplings.
In the latter case, additional bolting is required. In the case of welding, it is not necessary to cut off each element of the frame. It is possible to make corner cuts on the pipe at distances corresponding to the lengths of neighboring elements.
When one of the end walls is ready, it is welded or bolted to the fastener column foundation. Then the same actions are performed with the opposite end wall and intermediate vertical supports, if any, for the project.
The assembly of the frame is completed by the installation of horizontal beams on the walls and roof.
Hanging panels cellular polycarbonate . For fastening this type of plastic, it is best to use self-tapping screws with thermal washers. What fastening will avoid the penetration of moisture into the polycarbonate, which is fraught with a deterioration in its properties.
When working with cellular polycarbonate, it is necessary to ensure that its air cells are located either vertically or sloping. Horizontal arrangement is fraught with the accumulation of moisture.
To join the panels together, special docking strips are used to avoid the appearance of cracks. Such strips exist for both flat surfaces and corner joints.
Installation of doors and. As door jambs, additional vertical posts are used in one of the ends of the greenhouse. It makes sense to place the door not strictly in the central part of the butt, but with some offset. This will give more freedom of maneuver when planning the beds.
It is customary to fasten windows in greenhouses to the rafters of a gable roof. Otherwise, they do not differ in design from doors and are also made of a piece of cellular polycarbonate on a metal or wooden frame.
.

Rest
Having carefully checked everything, boil all the seams and corners tightly.
Weld two doors. Frame from the corner, without any amplifiers and crossbars! Just a frame...and don't be afraid that it looks flimsy and unreliable. Hang them on loops in the opening. Weld hinges and closures (latches or others of your choice) IMPORTANT! Locking devices must not interfere with the subsequent installation of glass! If you are not sure, then it is better to leave it for later, after glazing. (though it will be scrapped again to unwind the welding)
Inside, you can immediately weld loops or rings to which it is so convenient to tie ropes (after all, you will have excellent tomato bushes or large lashes of cucumbers)
With a special enthusiasm, you can put the vents (here you can figure it out for yourself).
At the bottom, in the corners and along the perimeter, weld pieces of the profile to fasten what you will sew up the bottom with (flat slate, for example). At the same time, you can make a small "ditch" around to deepen the slate, ten centimeters is enough.
You paint with a good three-in-one paint (primer, converter and paint), if you have money, you can probably use Hammerite! Distribute the brushes to the "helpers" and the children and have a rest. You deserve!
Hem the bottom with slate, screwing it onto the screws to the legs. (Here the columns driven in at the first stage should not interfere)
Install a fence inside so that the beds do not crumble under your feet, you can also from slate. (brand pieces driven into the ground is very convenient)
Bring in the land. The one under the greenhouse is so trampled down by you that nothing will grow on it. Manure, humus, peat, whatever you want! (Earth work is more convenient to do before glazing, but you can do it later.)
The floors can be paved, for example, with bricks, very beautiful, I call it "red square"
(By the way, leave the passage wider, about a meter, believe me, you will regret it later if you are greedy and leave the beds wider! Well, like a usable area and all that, overgrown cucumbers will not let you pass!)
Glazing
Well, here's the last one!
Glasses. Standard size glass on the construction market is 130 to 80. (It can't be! Have you already understood?) The side windows will go standard, not cut. Whole ones and another piece of about 60 cm will fall on the roof. overheated, poor quality.Well, two glasses in the door (Remember about cutting off a strip of one cm.? Try it.)
No "cleats" of glazing beads and putty! Buying a box silicone sealant for outdoor use, transparent, moisture resistant. (costs about a hundred rubles per tube). Tubes (tubes) for a pistol (330 ml in my opinion) and the pistol itself (Syringe. It costs sixty to eighty rubles). Apply sealant to iron and put glass (it is convenient to use suction cups for glass, sold on construction markets). Insert a gasket from below under the glass .. so that the glass does not rest on iron (it may crack) ... very conveniently small twigs, twigs or slivers, when the sealant dries, they can be easily removed. So that the glass does not fall (the sealant dries for a long time), support it from the outside ... for example, with a trim board. Putting glass on the roof is more difficult but not much (of course, if you have kept the dimensions correctly and the glass does not fall on your head). We support with a board (in my photo above you can see how ..)
When everything is dry, we pass with sealant and coat all the cracks.
After drying, your design will gain enviable strength and rigidity. Even doors. Call a neighbor who said that everything is very flimsy and he would do it from a corner of fifty and always with crossbars for reliability.
For those who still have doubts, I will say that it is very difficult to tear off the glass from the sealant (for example, to replace it)!
It turned out BEAUTIFUL, RELIABLE and not very expensive, considering that this is once and for many years!
The crown of works - above all praise (c)
When the wife plants early radishes, dill and lettuce under a film or cover and marks out where and what to plant, you will understand that you need to build another greenhouse! But that's next year. And believe me, it will come out even better!
My greenhouses are called "old", "new" and "supernova".
Then I'll post pictures with all sorts of useful little things. (if you want)
Sorry for a lot of beeches. I hope I didn't bore you and was helpful.
I'm all tired.

All summer residents dream of having a reliable greenhouse in their garden that would last for many years. Therefore, I would like to offer a worthy alternative to factory greenhouses, which will have a much better frame.

After all, you will agree at the expense of it you remove from the beds good harvest. It also perfectly protects your plants from adverse factors. environment, of which there are many. So it's about to start holiday season and seedlings will need to be planted. But in order to do this, many are wondering: what material is best for a greenhouse and how to make it yourself? Yes, you can find a lot on the internet. different ways. But still, I think the best option, if you want to make it yourself, is a profile pipe and polycarbonate.

Today, cellular polycarbonate is considered the most popular. It has excellent throughput sunlight, also holds heat amazingly and is very light for its size. And most importantly - not very expensive price, like other materials with the same results.

There are different types greenhouses (two-slope, single-slope). In this chapter, I want to tell you how to make an arched type of greenhouse. Therefore, whoever of you has an idea about the manufacture, he will easily assemble it.

1. First you need to decide on the place. It is placed in such a way that one long side looks south.

2. We begin to bend the arcs, having previously outlined a meter from each edge of the profile. This is necessary in order to start bending the pipe from this line with the help of a pipe bending tool. But do not forget to cut off 10 cm from it for a small allowance and adjustment of the polycarbonate. We need them for a 6 meter greenhouse 7 pcs, and for a 4 meter greenhouse 5 pcs.

By the way, in order to save money, I take metal for a 20x20 mm construction. You can use such cross-sections for jumpers, and already bend 40x20 for a greenhouse.

3. Now we expose the plane where we will cook the end parts. It must be level so that it does not turn out to be a screw.

4. We take two 6 meter profiles and cut them into 2 parts so that they turn out 3 meters each and weld them to two end arcs from the bottom. And we cook the remaining two sticks, like racks on the bottom and top of the curved arch, but from the middle of the base, 40 cm should be noted in different directions. To make it clearer, I drew an approximate drawing of the front end of the greenhouse.

5. The next step is to cut and weld the jumpers.

Do not forget to clean the seams so that when screwing the polycarbonate, do not damage it.

6. It remains to weld only the door and the front end will be ready. We measure our opening, in this case we have it 80 x 1.85 and make it 1 cm smaller. That is, 79 x 1.84 cm, cut off from the profile first 3 short, and then two long sticks.

The seams need to be welded on a tack so that the door does not lead much during welding. And also try to use a square to set up racks and jumpers.

After setting and tacking the loop, you can look at the opening.

8. Your front is ready, but so that the door does not turn out the other way, you need to weld the scarves in the corners at the top and bottom.

9. We do the back of the end in the same way, putting it on the front and pressing them together with clamps.

The most important thing is not to confuse the sides of the arcs that you bent, otherwise after the pipe bending tool, they may be different. It is best to outline and make all the arches on one side.

10. Also, instead of a door, you can do it with a window, but this is up to you.

11. When everything is prepared and done, we go to the place where we will install the greenhouse. We make markings so that the diagonals coincide and drive in the corners at the corners, by about 2.5–3 meters, while not forgetting to set them on a level or laser level. We weld the front and back of the greenhouse to the corners, and already weld the profile 5.96 to it along the entire length. Then the length of the greenhouse will be exactly 6 meters.

The corner should be inside the greenhouse so that later it does not interfere with polycarbonate.

12. Now, below, where the welded metal is, we stretch the cord along the entire length and drive in the reinforcement, in the place where we will put the arcs. With the same action we drive in where the door pillars are.

14. Accordingly, so that the end threads do not bend during tension and stand in level, we also temporarily support them until we weld all the jumpers.

15. We weld the jumpers on both sides, moving the arcs to the welded jumpers, then they will all be level.

16. This is the design you should get.

By the way, arches and lintels are best placed one at a time. If you install everything at once, they will bend and interfere with the stretched lace.

17. Well, the last step is to cover it with polycarbonate. First, cut the sheet in half and cover the ends, cut off the excess with a knife.

18. Then we lay the sheets along the edges and at the end we close the middle.

In this way, a homemade greenhouse was made.

Production of a double-slope greenhouse according to the drawing

This version of the greenhouse is a little more complicated, and the profile pipe will take more. This design allows you to grow taller plants.

By the way, for the walls and roof of the greenhouse, it is better to buy a 40x20 profile, and for jumpers you can use 20x20.

1. The first thing you need to start doing it with is from an approximate drawing.

Before welding the racks to the 6 m profile, do not forget to measure the diagonal.

3. In the same way we make the end walls, which are with doors and windows. In this case, the gap between the uprights and the doors should be 1 cm.

4. We install the structure on bricks leveled (with a level) and weld all the walls together.

6. We cook the roof. If desired, a couple of windows can also be welded in it, for better ventilation.

By the way, it is better to make jumpers after 50 cm, so that the carbonate stands longer and does not burst under the influence of snowfall.

7. And gradually install it on the walls of the greenhouse.

8. We sew our design with polycarbonate. Just don't forget to clean and paint the greenhouse pipes. We pass all the ends with adhesive tape for sealing.

As you can see, there is no difficulty in manufacturing. It turns out to be more expensive than a trade one, but it is more reliable.

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse video

In this video, I propose to see how to make a homemade greenhouse? What is its advantage and the correct location on the ground, taking into account easy watering.

As you can see, everything is easy and simple. And, as you know, planting season is coming soon and the best option greenhouses than from a profile pipe and polycarbonate can not be found.

How to make an arched greenhouse yourself?

I want to offer another way to make an arched greenhouse, but it is perhaps the most difficult to manufacture. The price is also not cheap. In this design, you can plant many plants for sale.

1. To begin with, we drill and fill in columns 50x25 with a depth of 1 m along the perimeter. We do this with the help of laces stretched at the corners. We weld overhead plates on them. Align the level with the same height.

Since the polycarbonate sheet is 2.10 wide, we fill the columns at the same distance. On the end walls, you can pour it arbitrarily, since there is a different design because of the doors.

2. On top of the invoices, also along the perimeter, we lay pipes 40x20 and weld them to them. Just remember to check the diagonal of the base of the greenhouse.

3. Next, we prepare arches from a 6-meter profile with stiffness from jumpers and a base. To save money, it is allowed to make arcs in such a way that later the polycarbonate joints are attached to the metal 40x60, and the middle 20x20.

4. We install vertical posts on the base of the greenhouse, about 2 meters high with a distance of 700 mm between them. On them we weld the manufactured arch.

5. For rigidity, we weld the jumpers. But we do this not only along the entire length of the vertical racks, but also along all our trusses. Connecting them together.

6. We also cook jumpers between the corners of the base of the arch and the rack.

7. So that the structure is not shaky, you need to weld the braces in the corners and pour the foundation around the entire perimeter. Also, for reliability in the middle of the building, you can fill in the pillars with mortgages.

8. Now, on one side of the end, we cook and install doors, and on the other, windows for ventilation. We paint the entire structure in any color you like.

9. Finally, we got to polycarbonate. We begin to mount from the roof. We connect the sheets to each other with a docking profile. To make it easier to twist them, we use two boards on which you can put a stepladder and calmly walk along it.

10. After the arches, we sew up the ends and sides of the greenhouse.

11. Well, in conclusion, I would like to provide a drawing of this miracle of the greenhouse.

I hope everything is clear with greenhouses, choose any and build. Have a good harvest.

Inveterate summer residents often strive to install a reliable greenhouse or greenhouse on their site so that they can grow seedlings or get a crop much earlier. In this article, we will talk about how to make a greenhouse from a professional pipe with your own hands, so that it turns out to be reliable and durable.

Note that the choice in favor of steel profiled pipes is dictated primarily by their resistance to deformation and destruction, as well as the ability to withstand significant loads. Although the installation itself of such products requires some effort.

The initial stage of creating a greenhouse from profile pipes - drawing and selection of material

Decide on the exact amount necessary materials can be as accurate as possible if you first estimate the dimensions of a greenhouse from a profile pipe in the drawings, and also take into account the parameters of the manufactured products themselves.

Profiles with a section of 40 × 20 mm or 40 × 40 mm are optimal for creating a supporting structure. They are strong enough and have a wall thickness of 2 mm or more. At the same time, products with thinner walls, about 1-1.5 mm, can be used for horizontal screed - this will be enough.

The project of a greenhouse from a profile pipe can include several types of configurations:

a greenhouse attached to the main house, the roof of which has an asymmetric oval or shed shape;
a separate building with a gable roof;
arched greenhouse.

When calculating the number of purchased pipes, it is worth taking into account the measured length of pipe products available for sale - it is 6.05 meters.

Given this value, it is possible to make drawings of greenhouses from a profile pipe with dimensions of 3, 4, 6 or 12 meters in length, as well as 2, 3, 4 or 6 meters in width. The optimal dimensions of the greenhouse, in which two parallel beds are located, will be values within 3 × 3-6 meters, and if there are three beds, then - 4-6 × 3-12 meters. However, most often a drawing of a greenhouse from a profile pipe is drawn up based on the dimensions of 3 × 6 meters - this is the most convenient ratio.

But as for the height of the building, then it is necessary to take into account the individual parameters of the owner. As a rule, the ceiling should be located 30-40 cm higher than a person's height. That is, the height of the greenhouse can vary between 1.9-2.5 meters.

Another important factor in calculating the height of the greenhouse is finishing material for sheathing. In the case of ordinary film, this is not of fundamental importance, but if you purchase polycarbonate, it is better if its size is enough to cover the height without trimming or extensions.

The standard length of a cellular polycarbonate sheet is 6 m, and if you use the circumference formula (L = π × D), you can calculate whether it is enough to cover an arched greenhouse.

So, for example, let's take the planned building height of 2 meters and substitute it into the formula:

L=3.14×4=12.56 meters.

Then half the length will be 12.56 / 2 \u003d 6.28 meters - this is not enough to completely cover the surface of the greenhouse, but an additional segment of 28 cm is required. Therefore, it is better to provide for a greenhouse height within 1, 9 meters.

Preliminary preparation for work

Before you start making a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, you should pay attention to some additional conditions for your site. In particular, the type of soil can be important. It is preferable to install a greenhouse on dry soil, where excess moisture does not accumulate, which can affect the supporting structures. It is optimal to install a greenhouse on sandy soils, in contrast to clayey soils prone to waterlogging.

The location of the greenhouse relative to the cardinal points also matters. So, it is best that the long side is facing south so that as much as possible penetrates into the greenhouse sun rays that won't bounce off polycarbonate sheets.

In order for the heat not to leave the greenhouse too quickly, and it was convenient to move in it, the front door is usually located in the end part. According to standards, the width of the door should be no narrower than 70-80 cm, but its height directly depends on the size of the greenhouse itself.

If you are planning to build a more or less capital greenhouse from a professional pipe, then you can additionally build a small corridor or vestibule in it. It will be possible to store tools and other trifles in it. In addition, such a space will allow you to keep warm when opening the door to the greenhouse itself.

The frame for the construction of a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands must be placed on a strip or column foundation, the type of which will depend on the type of soil. In any case, from the site under the foundation you need to remove debris and remove upper layer soil.

The sequence of work in the construction of a greenhouse from a profile

In general, the entire process of building a greenhouse from profile pipes includes four main stages:

Markup.
Foundation pouring.
Frame assembly.
Sheathed in polycarbonate.

First, a place is planned for the future greenhouse from a profile pipe and wooden pegs are driven in along its perimeter, onto which a rope is pulled.

Next, start building the foundation. frame structure from a profile pipe, which will be transferred to the supports, is quite strong and not prone to deformation. Therefore, it is often enough for a greenhouse to have a columnar foundation made of asbestos-cement pipes.

The columnar foundation is poured like this:

holes are drilled in the ground at a certain distance from each other, the diameter exceeding the dimensions of the pipes;
actually, asbestos pipes are immersed in the resulting pits;
the gaps between the pipes and the soil are covered with filler and carefully rammed;
pipes are poured inside cement mortar making sure that there are no voids in it;

in the upper part of the poured pipe, a metal plate or a piece of reinforcement is immersed in concrete, which will serve as a hitch for the foundation with a frame structure.

Assembling the body from profile pipes begins with the end sections of the structure. The pipe sections are connected to each other by welding, using tees, angles, and also with the help of couplings. Welding seams are much stronger, and the structure is more stable. However, if you want to make the frame collapsible, then it is better to use couplings.

At the last stage, they begin to sheath the body with polycarbonate sheets. It is fixed with self-tapping screws with thermal washers so that moisture does not penetrate into the material cells.

Please note that when attaching polycarbonate, its cells must be located at an angle or vertically. The horizontal position will not allow moisture to drain and degrade the quality of the material.

If you are planning to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with a house, with a full gable roof, then in it, in addition to front door, you need to cut through the windows. Well, small arched greenhouses can only get by with a door.

How to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse in a "cold" way

Arched greenhouses made of profile pipes for summer cottages are the most stable and, at the same time, practical structures. Due to their streamlined shape, arched greenhouses are able to withstand strong gusts of wind, they do not accumulate precipitation in winter period. However, to create such a design, you must first bend the pipes (read: ""). In this case, there can be two options - contact specialists for professional help or do the work yourself using a pipe bender. Another alternative is to do the bending with your own hands using improvised means. To cope with the task as efficiently as possible, you need a radius template.

There can be two ways of cold bending of profile pipes - with or without a filler. If it is planned to assemble the body from profiles with a thickness of up to 10 mm, then pipe bending can be performed without filler. But for bending professional pipes with thicker walls, it is better to pour rosin or sand into them.

Alternatively, there is a bending method using a thick spring, the cross section of which will allow it to be pushed into the pipe cavity. The spring properties of such a device will make it possible to bend the pipes quite well, without changing the section of the profile at the bend.

Thus, there are two ways to bend profile pipes in a “cold” way:

use improvised means and mechanisms - bending plates and similar tools;
use a portable or manual factory pipe bender.

Rather primitive, but, nevertheless, an effective device for cold bending of profiles are bending plates with holes. Rods are placed in these recesses, which will serve as a stop when bending. The pipe is placed between two rods, which are installed in the slab at a distance of the deformation radius. Then they begin to bend the profile, moving from the center of the workpiece to its edges.

It should be noted that such a manual method of cold pipe deformation is quite laborious, and the result will depend on the effort expended on bending.

Method of bending profile pipes with preheating

The hot bending technique looks like this:

At the first stage, wooden plugs for the pipe are made in the form of pyramids. The length of such a workpiece should be 10 times greater than the width of its base, and the area of the wide part should be at least twice the pipe clearance.
When the workpiece fits the size of the pipe, small grooves are made in it on four sides, through which the gases generated when the pipe is heated will escape. The second stub does not need to be processed.
Next, the treated section of the pipe is pre-fired.
Any fine filler must be sifted through a fine sieve before filling into the pipe. So you get rid of large particles that can be imprinted on the surface of the pipe when heated. After that, very fine sand particles are removed using a 0.7 mm sieve so that they do not sinter when heated inside the pipe.
The prepared sand is calcined at 150℃.
On one side of the pipe, a blind plug without grooves is installed. On the other hand, a funnel is placed in the professional pipe, along which calcined sand is poured inside in small portions.
With periodic tapping of the walls, you can make sure that the sand is well compacted - the sound will be deaf. As soon as the pipe is completely filled with sand, a second plug with grooves is inserted.
The place of the future bend of the pipe is marked with chalk. After that, the pipe section must be securely fixed in a vice by placing it on the template. Please note that products with welded seams must be bent so that the junction is located on the side. But bending along the weld is not worth it.
By marking, they begin to warm the metal to red. When the material becomes soft enough, it is given the desired shape in one smooth and clear movement.

When the workpiece has cooled, the bend is compared with the template. With perfect work, you can pull out the plugs and pour sand out of the profile.

It is desirable that all hot bending work be carried out in one step. Each subsequent heating will lead to a loss of metal strength.

In conclusion, we note that, by and large, even novice builders can cope with the construction of a greenhouse for a summer residence from profile pipes. Regardless of its design, all major work will be carried out according to general principle. The only differences may be the features of the landscape and the preferences of the owners, which will need to be taken into account during construction.

If you happy owner suburban area, then it’s just a sin to spend money on buying store-bought vegetables and herbs. Accelerate harvest time and.

To make a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands, you will have to spend a certain amount of time, Money and physical effort, but in the end, all efforts will pay off handsomely during the operation of this unique design.

Why profile pipe?

When choosing a material for construction - a profile pipe will be the most optimal solution.

You can naturally use wooden slats, but you will have to use maximum protection measures for it, since this material is subject to decay, shrinkage and deformation.

The latter type does not have a particular advantage, it is just that it is most often used today out of habit, since glass was previously used to cover the greenhouse, which would be difficult to cover the arched structure.

And the innovative and elastic material - polycarbonate makes it possible to block greenhouses of any kind.

For the main frames of the frame of the future greenhouse, it is recommended to take a 4x2 cm pipe. For horizontal connecting elements, you can use a 2x2 cm profile.

If you want to make a high-quality frame of such a design as a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, the drawings must be made. Such a move will allow you to choose the right dimensions and thereby eliminate large losses of metal during cutting parts.

Making a metal profile frame with your own hands is not the cheapest pleasure, so it is recommended to carry out the calculation in such a way that no more than one standard pipe size 6.05m.

The optimal size for a gable structure is calculated as follows. If the height is taken as 1.7 m, then 3.4 m of pipe will be required for two frames, after which another 2.65 m of the profile remains.

When taking into account the slope of the roof, the width of one frame should be 2.25 m. The main thing is to make sure that after overlapping the frame, 10 cm of material remains on each side on the side overhangs.

If desired, you can start making a greenhouse using semicircular frames. Here, the dimensions of the structure will be large in comparison with the gable, which increases the total usable internal area.

But it is worth considering that independent production an arched greenhouse made of a square pipe involves the use of such an apparatus as a pipe bender. Thanks to him, it will be possible to bend the profile with high quality, as you need.

It is worth considering, because the pricing policy of such a device is very high, and not everyone can make a pipe bender using improvised means.

There are several ways to bend a profile without using a special apparatus, but such methods will not give a perfect bend and can lead to deformation of expensive material.

Therefore, in order to avoid such difficulties, it is advisable to opt for a gable type of home greenhouse.

Selection and laying of the foundation

Here you can choose several options for the base from wooden sleepers to the grillage of screw piles.

Most best option- the choice of a shallow monolithic foundation, which is laid with one's own hands not deep on one "bayonet" of a shovel.

Before making the foundation, anchors are installed on all sides for fastening profile components. When concrete mix hardens to the anchors, you can weld 4x2 cm profiles, which will become a reliable basis for installing the future greenhouse frame.

Ordinary strip foundation can also be used for the building, it will increase the reliability of the structure and its durability.

Video - foundation installation

The process of laying the foundation with your own hands involves a large contribution of physical labor, the availability of free time and accuracy, which must be observed in every action.

Therefore, it is recommended that before starting construction, start making a drawing of the future design, indicating all the dimensions from which you should not deviate, in order to avoid unpleasant consequences during subsequent operation.

A greenhouse with a house during the construction process does not require the use of a pipe bender. To avoid the formation of possible irregularities, it is advisable to collect everything on a straight asphalt site.

Do-it-yourself frame installation

Greenhouses made of polycarbonate and professional pipes should only be covered end-to-end, while it is worthwhile to carefully ensure that the front side of the material looks outward of the structure.

The end parts of polycarbonate sheets must be treated with a silicone-based sealant that protects them. Count on the fact that the length of the coating should be 10 cm more than the height of the profile in order to form a slope.

At the upper joint of the roof of a metal greenhouse from a professional pipe, they are covered with a profile, which is attached to self-tapping screws along longitudinal ties.

The installation of polycarbonate on the door and the window is carried out according to the same principle, the main thing is to make sure that its size does not interfere with the operation of these elements.

On the modern construction market there is a large selection of different tools that can extend the service life. metal frame and speed up the construction process.

Having delved into the topic and the nuances of the process of building buildings from shaped pipes, it becomes clear that a high-quality drawing, the manufacture of each element and the frame coating technology are of equal importance.

When making a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands, you need to have minimal knowledge in architecture and working with metal elements.

One wrong step or calculation can cross out all the work, and the right decision will lead to an excellent final result.