The appearance of stumps on garden plot associated with the periodic renewal of fruit trees, their natural death and cleaning of the site for construction. The presence of woody skeletons reduces the aesthetics of the backyard territory, makes it difficult to move freely and makes it impossible to erect new buildings. Stumps must be removed in order to return the space to its proper look and usability. Only in rare cases can they be left, adapted for a table or an artistically designed flower bed.

There are several ways

The process of removing stumps is not always associated with the use of special equipment and the involvement of specialists. It can be done independently, using only improvised means and materials.

There are two approaches to the destruction of stumps - chemical and physical. Chemical methods (without uprooting) are based on the treatment of wood residues with reagents, leading to their accelerated destruction or complete burnout during combustion. Physical methods (usual manual uprooting) consist in the use of classic tools for work - shovels, saws and axes.

Removal with saltpeter - chemical burning

This approach is universal for the destruction of stumps in most garden areas and adjacent areas. The essence of the method lies in the burning of wood residues impregnated with saltpeter - a strong oxidizing agent. A stump remover (potassium or sodium nitrate) allows you to burn out not only the aerial part of a sawn tree, but also deep roots.

The principle of preparation for removal is as follows:

• in the tree, several holes are drilled with the thickest possible drills. The process is carried out in late summer or early autumn;
• potassium or sodium nitrate is poured into the resulting perforation to the top, which should then be poured with water to intensify the impregnation of wood;
• the top of the holes is closed with pre-cut wooden plugs or wrapped with plastic wrap tightly tied along the tree trunk.

The prepared stump remains in this state until next summer. During this time, the entire root system is saturated with saltpeter and dries up. A fire is built around the stump, which must be maintained until the skeleton is completely destroyed. If the top cut of the stump is flush with the ground, additional recesses can be drilled in it for pouring gasoline or kerosene. The combustible mixture is ignited, initiating the process of combustion and smoldering of hemp throughout the volume. After complete burnout, the place where the stump was located is dug up and covered with earth.

How to quickly remove the stump without uprooting, using saltpeter, look at the video:

For one stump left from fruit tree medium-sized (up to 15 cm in diameter), about 2 kg of saltpeter is consumed. Its quantity affects mainly not the completeness, but the rate of wood burning out. To achieve maximum destruction of the stump, including the roots, you should wait until the tree is completely dry after winter and spring rains.

For reference, in order to fit 1 kg of saltpeter into a stump, you need to make twenty holes with a diameter of 1 cm, five holes with a diameter of 2 cm or two holes with a diameter of 3 cm (depth - 30 cm). The thicker the drill, the faster the work will go.

Advantages of the method:

• minimum physical effort for preparation;
• almost complete removal of residues, with the exception of the deepest roots;
• ease of implementation;
• lack of green shoots from the remnants of the roots in the future.

Flaws:

• during impregnation, the soil is saturated with saltpeter. It is a good fertilizer, but harmful in large quantities to tuber and fruit crops;
• a long wait between preparing the stump and destroying it;
• the need to purchase, store and transport chemicals.

The process of burning a stump under the action of saltpeter:

This method should be used with caution in peaty areas to avoid peat fires. The roots of trees can go to a considerable depth, saturated with saltpeter to the very tips. The slow smoldering of the root wood, which occurs with a limited air supply, often initiates a prolonged burning of the peat deposit.

Decomposition by urea

The preparation of the stump with this method is completely identical to the use of saltpeter - the stump is perforated with drills of maximum diameter, and urea (urea) is poured into the holes formed. The top of the holes is filled with water, after which the stump is tightly wrapped with a polymer film. After 1-2 years, the woody remains completely rot, and in their place is a fertile layer of soil.

Do not confuse urea and ammonium nitrate . These are completely different compounds - urea is relatively harmless, while ammonium nitrate is a rather explosive and toxic substance.

Advantages of the method:

• minimum physical work;
• the soil is not polluted with nitrates;
• the stump is completely removed. This makes the site suitable for building, laying out flower beds and planting any garden and garden crops.

Flaws:

• very long period of destruction of the stump;
• the need to purchase additional materials;
• high consumption of chemicals to remove a few stumps.

For reference - to place 1 kg of urea in a stump, you will have to make about thirty holes with a diameter of 1 cm, eight holes with a diameter of 2 cm or four holes with a diameter of 3 cm (30 cm deep). The consumption of urea for removing a medium-sized stump is selected in the same way as when laying saltpeter.

Precautions when working with chemicals:

When using any fertilizer, it is recommended to use protective equipment. Old clothes and gloves for hands are quite suitable for working with saltpeter. When working with urea, you can not use such precautions, but scatter the chemical over the entire area and take it with bare hands not worth it either.

It is advisable not to plant plants around the removed stumps, the fruits or tubers of which will be eaten. It should also be borne in mind that high concentrations of saltpeter can "burn out" plantings at a distance of 0.5-1 m from the stump, so take care in advance about transplanting the plants that you want to save.

Uprooting a stump with your own hands

You can quickly remove the stump when using a tractor, excavator or puller (hand cutter). Attracting large-sized equipment can be inconvenient or even impossible due to the presence of a fence, plants and equipped paths on the site. Buying a manual rooter or hiring a specialist with his own tool is a very costly undertaking to remove one stump. To save money and effort, you need to involve one or two assistants and stick to general rules work.

Preparation for the procedure: before removing the stump, it must be cleared of the surrounding earth. To do this, you can go two ways:

1. excavate the nearest space about half a meter using a small bayonet shovel. So that the soil does not roll back, it is thrown to the side with a shovel tool;
2. dig a hole with a diameter and depth of about 1 and 0.5 m at a distance of 1-2 m from the stump, equipping a drain (gutter) from the remains of the tree to it. Then the earth around the stump is washed out with a jet of water from a hose. The greater its pressure, the faster access to the upper root system will open.

Extraction of the skeleton using a winch: to get a stump out of the ground, you can tie it along the trunk and roots with a metal cable stretched through a winch. The cable should extend to the winch from the saw cut, thus providing a lever for overturning the stump. The winch is mounted on a firmly fixed pole or other tree.

Mechanical removal: if it is impossible to use a winch, the tree frame can be removed by cutting or sawing off its roots. The specific method depends on the degree of openness of the roots and the availability of access to them with an ax or saw. If it is not possible to expose the root, it can be cut right in the ground using a pick - scrap metal or a thin pipe with an ax welded at one end. A similar tool is often used by janitors, breaking off icing from the asphalt.

After cutting off the side branches, a central post is usually left, which is difficult to approach. It is already turning from side to side and partially rotates around its axis. You can break it with a deep vertical root by active turns and tilts in different directions.

Relatively easy way uprooting a stump without the use of special equipment:

Pros and cons of self-uprooting

Advantages:

• minimal cash and financial costs;
• high speed of work (the remains of two or three large trees can be destroyed per day).

Flaws:

• significant laboriousness of the process;
• in some cases, it is impossible to approach the stump and dig a hole of a suitable size (because of the nearby paths or flower beds);
• lateral and vertical roots remain in place of the hemp, which can interfere with construction;
• need for additional helpers.

To remove a small dry stump (no more than 10 cm in diameter), you can break it with a long crowbar using brute force. First, the stump is split in the middle by inflicted blows, and then the formed fragments are loosened with a crowbar, like a lever, breaking off 10-15 cm below ground level.

Precautions to keep in mind

While working with a winch, the extracted stump can jump out of the ground abruptly and fly several meters in the air. Because of this, you should move away from the possible flight path of the tree and remember that a broken rope or cable can also cause serious injuries.

Safety elements when cutting roots:

• when using a pick, it is necessary to set the feet wide so as not to accidentally hit them through a layer of crumbling earth;
• you can’t get close to a person with an ax or chop a stump together. Follow the rule - one cuts, the other rests;
• when working with an ax, one should stand on widely spaced legs so as not to be injured by the tip bouncing off a hard root.

What to be guided by when choosing a removal method?

There are several criteria by which you can determine the optimal approach.

1. The mechanized method with the involvement of large special equipment is suitable for clearing a building site and requires free space and access roads. The method is suitable for removing a large number stumps.
2. The chemical method is suitable for the subsequent construction and renewal of the garden, if there is time to wait 1-2 years. Urea is ideally suited for obtaining a fertile site and has a minimum negative effects, while saltpeter in high concentrations has a "burning" effect on plants.
3. Manual removal is used in most situations where a suitable size hole can be dug around the stump. The method requires significant physical effort and minimal financial investment.

A site cleared of stumps can be used much more efficiently than an area with unremoved tree skeletons. Hemp interferes with the full realization of a beautiful landscape composition, with the exception of rare design solutions. In addition to excellent functionality, a well-groomed site is always pleasing to the eye and safe for recreation and business activities. Spending a few days clearing the area of ​​stumps can make harvesting and gardening easier for years to come.

The stump left from a sawn tree spoils the view very much suburban area. Sometimes the stump can be somehow decorated, decorated under a flower bed or made one of the elements of decorating the site. It is not difficult to create the impression that the stump is on the site on purpose, it performs a decorative function. But in most cases, they still want to get rid of stumps. A thick growth often comes from a stump, which is insanely difficult to fight with your hands and on your own. How to remove both the stump and the shoots from its root system on the site, how to do it as quickly as possible and with less effort? Anyone who has experienced this problem knows how much effort it takes. and how long this misfortune poisons the garden joy.

There are several methods for removing a stump.

Method one - chemical

Saltpeter is required. Saltpeter must be diluted in water. This solution is necessary long time pour a little into the stump. Pre-hollow out a hole or drill holes so that the liquid accumulates inside the stump and does not flow down it to the ground.

When the stump is well saturated with saltpeter and completely dry, it will need to be set on fire. This method is very efficient. At the same time, the stump completely burns out, even the underground part of the stump burns out along with the shoots.

If the site is located on peat deposits, then this method should NEVER be used. Peat can ignite!

On such a site, ordinary coarse-grained (technical) salt can be used to remove the stump. It is necessary to fill the stump with salt, wait a while. Salt will turn wood into dust. Buy technical salt available at hardware stores.

Salt must be used with extreme caution. Plants near a salt-covered stump may die.

It is advisable to destroy the stump with salt only to clear the site for construction country house or outbuildings.

The second method is mechanical.

There are special machines for breaking stumps. The easiest way is to buy such a machine at a hardware store. With it, you can literally chop a stump into chips in just ten minutes. This car is worth a lot of money. It is not economically feasible to buy it to destroy one or two stumps. You can ask for such a car for a while in some garden society. There are often economic gardeners with whom you can negotiate.

The third method is uprooting the stump.

Around the stump at a distance of one and a half meters, you need to dig the ground. Run a jet of water through the hose. Wait until the earth is washed away by water, the roots will appear. With a sharp saw in the center of the stump, two deep cuts should be made, almost to the ground, and a piece about ten centimeters wide should be cut out. Then, using a crowbar, swing the stump, trying to uproot it from the ground.

It will not be easy to uproot a large stump from an old tree in this way. Often the roots spread over a large area. Requires very significant efforts for uprooting and a lot of time.

Some firms carry out work on the destruction of stumps. For a fee, a team of workers will uproot and take away the stump from your summer cottage. Perhaps this is a good way to get rid of old stumps if you have a lot of them or if you have one, but very solid.

The fourth method is the removal of the aerial part of the stump and the fight against growth.

Preventing the growth of new shoots. You need ammonium sulfate. The stump should be cut as close to the ground as possible. Drill a few holes in the stump, pour ammonium sulfate into them. Cover the holes with something (clay, plasticine). If you have an electric (or petrol) saw and a drill, then this method is the easiest for you.

The growth, which will certainly grow and annoy you after the death of the main tree, after such an operation ceases to appear on the surface. The entire root system dies, which is what is required when removing old trees from the site.

Ennoble old garden much harder than smashing a new one in a wasteland. This is known firsthand by those who got such a plot. Sometimes it takes more than one year to fight stumps and overgrowth. All stump removal methods are good as long as they don't endanger the surrounding soil or risk starting a fire that you can't control on your own.

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We do not encounter such a problem every day, and therefore, even for experienced gardeners, the question of how to remove a stump from a tree often becomes challenging task. Without certain knowledge and skills, it is impossible to solve it qualitatively and quickly. But it is also impossible to leave wood "garbage" on the site.

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A stump from a sawn tree can create inconvenience, produce fresh shoots, occupy a usable space that is better used for planting other crops. But this is not the main problem. If thin roots are able to naturally compost over time and become a full-fledged fertilizer, then this will not happen with massive roots and the rest of the trunk. Very soon, a stump that has not been uprooted in time will become a source of soil infections, fungus, and a cozy refuge for pests.

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Therefore, the removal of a stump is not so much a matter of aesthetics and comfort as the need to comply sanitary norms. It should be remembered that maintaining “hygiene” in a personal or garden plot is a guarantee of longevity and high productivity of the “green friends” you cherish.

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So how do you remove a stump from a tree? Consider the options.

The classic method - uprooting the stump by hand

This is the traditional way to remove the stump and part of the root system of a felled or dead tree. The method is simple when it comes to a small stump, and incredibly laborious in the case of old trees, whose age is many decades.

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Although if we consider this process as an inevitability and tune in to work, then everyone can cope with such a task. Of course, you should not refuse the help of friends and neighbors, but if such proposals have not been received, then you will have to pick up a shovel, not forgetting about gloves, and act independently.

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First you need to dig around the stump well, exposing the lateral roots as much as possible. As soon as they are available, they need to be cut or trimmed. When the lateral roots are separated from the stem part, the stump should be loosened well so that access to the most important thing is opened - the tap root, which goes vertically down. It will also need to be separated from the stump. It is desirable that the part remaining in the ground is below the fertile layer.

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But that's not all. It is also necessary to remove all large roots from the ground so that they do not interfere with the subsequent cultivation of the vacated area.

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The easiest way to remove a stump

Only in fairy tales stumps themselves jump out of the ground. Therefore, you should not relax, you will have to work hard here. But there is a way to optimize this process. The idea is that the roots extending from the stump can be washed away with water, thereby facilitating access and removal.

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To do this, you need to dig another hole, comparable in size to the one that will be dug around the stump when digging. The soil around the stump is eroded under pressure by a jet from a hose, and excess water goes into a hole prepared for this purpose. When the roots are well washed out, they will become as accessible as possible for pruning and uprooting.

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Technological method, mechanized method of stump removal

Probably, few have heard that there is a special unit for removing stumps - a stump crusher. True, this superweapon is worth it as the latest development of NASA, but for the sake of completeness, it will not be superfluous to mention it. Maybe someone wants to do stump fighting professionally and open their own business. Fortunately, there is a request for such a service, and things will go well.

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But back to the stump grinder. Outwardly, it is very similar to a professional gasoline-powered wheeled cutter, which is used to cut asphalt and other hard surfaces. In fact, it is what it is, it is only used to turn stumps into sawdust. She cuts stumps thoroughly and, most importantly, very quickly.

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Removing stumps with salt

This is one of the most budget options, but you still have to fork out for a pack of salt. Sodium chloride, although it is food additive, but has pronounced aggressive properties. Table salt destroys wood and this is a fact. You can test this property of salt with benefit by destroying a stump with it.

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To do this, it is necessary to pre-drill several holes in it with a large drill, pour salt into them, fill them with water, cover the entire “construction” with cellophane and forget about its existence for a year and a half. During this time, the salt will destroy the structure of the wood, and the stump can be simply and easily uprooted on their own without anyone's help.

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Biological method - destruction of stumps with mushrooms

You need to make a reservation right away, this method does not belong to the category of express methods. You have to wait at least two years. But why rush when an amazing prospect opens up to combine pleasant and tasty with useful, and even enjoy these benefits for several years. The idea is simple - infect the stump with fungal spores. There are two worthy candidates for this role - oyster mushroom and winter honey agaric. Both of these species are almost omnivorous and feel great on any stumps, except for those left from coniferous trees.

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The technology of "infection" is extremely simple. Mushroom mycelium, preferably grain - already germinated on the substrate, is introduced into drilled holes or notches on the stump. And that's all. It is desirable, however, to moisten the stump occasionally, especially in hot weather. If this is done in the spring, then in October you can already expect a harvest of oyster mushrooms, and from December to March, collect winter mushrooms. In three years, the stump will generally turn into dust, and the experience gained may be the impetus to start growing mushrooms seriously.

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Removal of stumps by chemical-pyrotechnical method

According to the implementation technology, it is close to the version with table salt. Only saltpeter is used in this case - sodium or potassium. The advantage of the method is that the base impregnated with saltpeter, in our case, wood, burns very well. After all, it is not for nothing that saltpeter is essential component many types of gunpowder.

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To implement the method, you need to drill a lot of holes in a stump, fill them with saltpeter, fill them with water, cover them with a plastic bag or film from precipitation, and be patient for a year and a half.

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When the saltpeter does its job, and the wood of the stump softens, there is no need to rush to uproot it mechanically. It is enough to pour some combustible liquid on the stump and set it on fire, or build a fire around it. Saltpeter in the process of burning abundantly releases oxygen, due to which in this way it will be possible to burn out even deeply rooted roots. This method is popular not only among domestic gardeners, but is also widely practiced in foreign farms.

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Chemical method of stump removal

This method is for people with increased patience. Here we will talk about urea, and scientifically - ammonium nitrate. The bookmarking method is no different from the method with potassium and sodium nitrate. Only the option of arson will not work here, and it will take a little longer to wait for the destruction of the stump.

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But when the stump turns into dust, its remains can be easily dug up with the ground and new plants can be safely planted in this place. Ammonium nitrate- first-class fertilizer, so this method of removing stumps gives a double effect.

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The method is a bit "poisonous"

Let's talk about herbicides. Despite the widespread opinion about the absolute harm of herbicides, it can be said that "the devil is not as terrible as he is painted." In any case, modern preparations Glisol, Alaz, Tornado, Roundup, Zero and others, designed specifically for the destruction of weeds, are practically harmless, they quickly decompose into phosphates, carbon dioxide and water.

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There are two ways to introduce chemicals - either treat them with a fresh cut, or evenly distribute them around the stump over the surface of the soil. Abundant watering or rainfall will do their job, and the preparations will penetrate deep into the root system.

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These chemicals are effective only in the case of a freshly cut tree, as they are designed to destroy only living vegetation.

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Another one of them important property- the so-called systemic, allowing substances to quickly spread through the capillary system of the plant. Introduced into the structure of a tree, in particular a fresh stump, they quickly kill it, after which the latter collapses and becomes pliable for uprooting.

Stumps from a sawn tree spoil the view of the site and occupy the space that is reserved for the beds. It is problematic to get rid of large stumps by uprooting; other methods are used for this. We will tell in the article how to get rid of the stump of a sawn tree with your own hands.

Which way to choose for uprooting?

There are three options for stump removal:

1. Chemical - using chemicals that destroy wood.
2. Mechanical - using special equipment.
3. Physical - manual uprooting using a shovel, saw and ax.

The first method has nothing to do with uprooting. The foam is treated with reagents that lead to decomposition or combustion. The means include saltpeter, urea and table salt. The mechanical method involves the involvement of special equipment and the use of equipment. This can be a chainsaw or rental equipment such as a bulldozer, backhoe, or stump grinder.

Stumps are not always removed using heavy equipment and the involvement of specialists, sometimes they manage with improvised means. Consider in the table how to choose a stump removal method.

Way	Criterias of choice
Mechanical	Suitable for a large undeveloped area, because heavy equipment needs space to operate. This method is justified when there are a large number of stumps on the site.
Chemical	They are used in areas where crops are planned to be planted in a few years, it is during this time that the stump will decompose.
	Suitable for young trees, where it is convenient to dig a hole around the trunk. Apply with a shortage of funds, when there is no time to wait.

When choosing a particular method, it is worth considering all the pros and cons. If you need to remove the stump immediately, and the bulldozer or excavator will not enter the site, then a stump grinder is used. IN short term nothing will remain of the stump, and the area around it will remain untouched.

Disadvantages and advantages of uprooting methods

Each of the uprooting methods has disadvantages and advantages. We present them in the table.

Way	Advantages	Flaws
The use of saltpeter	does not require physical effort; deep stump removal; young shoots do not germinate in the future.	the soil is saturated with the chemical; if the concentration of saltpeter is exceeded, it is harmful to crops; financial costs for the purchase of chemicals.
Use of urea	minimum physical effort; there is no soil pollution with chemicals; complete removal of the stump.	long term decomposition of the stump; high consumption of chemicals.
Salt	simple and cheap way.	long term destruction of the stump
Chainsaw removal	fast and cheap way.	suitable for short-term stump removal; after a while, young shoots appear.
Attraction of special equipment	helps to quickly get rid of the stump; clears the area for construction, even if there was a garden on the site earlier.	financially costly way; suitable only for spacious and free areas.
	does not require financial costs; you can get rid of a stump in a day.	laborious process; lack of space for access to the root system, if there is a track nearby; lateral roots remain.

Choose a method based on the size and number of stumps on the site, the presence of buildings and beds. In small garden plots, where vegetable beds are around, trees and bushes grow, special equipment cannot be attracted, aggressive chemicals also do not fit, it remains to uproot with your own hands.

Uprooting stumps from the ground by hand

For work you will need:

• shovel, hacksaw and ax;
• in addition, for large stumps, a winch and a cable are needed.

Council number 1. If you do not have a winch, take it from friends. It will facilitate the process of pulling the roots out of the ground.

Manual uprooting requires no small amount of physical strength, especially if a large stump is removed.

Manual uprooting looks like this:

1. They dig a stump in a circle, the roots are interrupted with a shovel or an ax.
2. They dig 0.5 m deep. If this is not enough, continue to dig, all roots are removed from the ground.
3. They tie the stump with a rope and try to pull it out with the help of a winch. It will facilitate the process if the height of the trunk is up to 1.5 m. Then the trunk is loosened, and the stump lends itself to uprooting faster.

Dry stump is easier to remove. If the trunk diameter is not more than 10 cm, then a crowbar is used. By hitting the crowbar in the center of the stump, the wood is split into pieces, and then they are removed at a depth of 15 cm underground, trying to loosen each piece of the stump. Manual uprooting includes soil erosion, but is used on sandy and clay soils.

First, the stump is dug around, then the soil is washed out from the hose to expose the roots of the tree. When blurring, you need a good pressure of water and a large jet, otherwise nothing will work. The exposed roots are sawn or chopped, and then the stump is taken out of the ground.

Council number 2. The roots can be cut right in the ground without exposing them. Use a tube with an ax welded on the end or scrap metal.

Chemical removal of the stump on the site

Saltpeter is not used to dispose of stumps that grow on peat soils otherwise fire will occur.

For chemical removal of the stump, saltpeter (potassium or sodium), urea and table salt are used. Applying chemical substances, you do not need to make physical efforts, the reagents will do everything for you. Chemicals kill the tree's root system to the last root, regardless of the size of the stump.

Saltpeter burns out the stump along with the roots, but the substances that are released during combustion penetrate deep into the ground. On the surface of the stump, holes are drilled with a diameter of 1 cm and a depth of up to 40 cm, saltpeter is poured into them. Up to 100 g of the substance is poured into each hole, and water is poured on top.

The holes are clogged with wooden plugs, and the surface of the stump is wrapped with a film so that the saltpeter is not washed out by rain. If they do it in the summer, then in the spring they burn out the stump. In the spring, the holes are opened and a combustible substance (kerosene or gasoline) is poured in, set on fire and the object burns out completely. Saltpeter, when burned, releases oxygen, so the flame spreads in the ground, burning out the roots of the tree.

The more holes, the faster the reagent will act.

The technique for removing a stump with urea is similar to the technology for using saltpeter, but the tree is not set on fire and the combustible mixture is not poured. Urea will accelerate the decomposition of the tree, after which the stump is not uprooted, but simply covered with earth. Green sprouts will not appear.

Urea is a fertilizer, so a fertile area is formed in place of the stump. Apply the tool even on peat soils. Coarsely ground table salt, like urea, destroys the stump. The stump removal process looks like this:

1. In autumn, holes are drilled in the stump and salt is added. It will take up to 300 g of salt.
2. Add water to holes.
3. From above the stump is covered with earth.

During the winter, the stump decomposes, but it is worth considering that the soil becomes saline and is not suitable for vegetable beds or flower beds for several years. Get rid of a large stump with herbicides. Among the popular are "Roundup" or "Tornado". The technology is simple:

1. The top of the stump is cut off to get a fresh cut.
2. The product is poured onto the surface and wrapped with a film for the winter.
3. Remove the decomposed stump after 6 months or a year.

Mechanical removal of wood residues

At mechanical removal use petrol tools or involve equipment. If the area on which the stump grows is not used for beds or flower beds, then it is enough to cut the trunk under the root with a chainsaw. Otherwise, a stump grinder is used. It destroys the stump and roots to a depth of 40 cm, and does not affect the roots of trees that are next to the stump.

Council number 3. In spacious areas where there are more than two stumps, bulldozers or excavators are used, because renting a stump grinder is expensive.

Non-standard ways to deal with old stumps

The stump grinder is used in small areas.

Eat folk ways uprooting, which is rarely used, but they are effective:

1. A rotten stump that grows in the middle of the garden is disposed of with water. At the beginning of winter, when frosts are expected, the stump is abundantly flooded with water, it turns into ice and destroys the tree. In the spring, the stump will crumble, and it is pulled out of the ground without effort.
2. Plant fungal spores in a stump. Incisions are made in the trunk and spores of oyster mushrooms or honey agaric are poured into them. Watered and wrapped with a film for the winter. Mushrooms are harvested in the spring, and in five years the stump will get cold. After it is destroyed and removed from the earth.
3. Destruction of the stump by working off engine oil. In the spring, the stump around the trunk is dug 15 cm deep. Bark up to 7 cm thick is removed from the trunk. The bark is lubricated with machine oil and attached back to the trunk, sprinkled with earth. The effect is not immediately noticeable, green shoots will begin to grow, but by mid-summer they will dry out, and after a few years the stump will collapse. It is overgrown with fungus, and the bark is peeling off.

Some gardeners plant young seedlings in the stumps of old trees. So they get rid of the rotten stump and its roots, and get a young tree. Young growth destroys rotten wood, which serves as fertilizer. old stump cut off with a chainsaw at the root, make a recess in the trunk, fill with fertilizers and plant a seedling.

Answers to questions on getting rid of the stump

A landscape decoration is made from a stump, if it does not interfere with the garden plot.

Question number 1. What is the best way to remove a stump?

There is a different way for each case. Mechanical rooting is the fastest, but costly in terms of money. After the work of special equipment, the site must be put in order. In a small garden area where there are trees, the equipment will not turn around and will not be able to work. Chemical uprooting is convenient in small areas where there are buildings and other trees, but you have to wait a year or two.

Question number 2. What is a stump grinder and where can I get one?

This is an apparatus small size. With its help uproot and crush stumps. Milling reaches a depth of 30 cm. Such equipment is expensive, so it is not advisable to buy for uprooting one stump, it is better to use rental services. You can buy it in specialized stores that sell chainsaws and other equipment, as well as order it online.

Question number 3. They dug around the stump, but there is no winch. How to pull his trunk out of the ground?

If the lateral roots are chopped off, then the post will stagger from side to side. To get the stump out of the ground, it is torn off from the main vertical root, which cannot be fully pulled out. They make sharp turns of the trunk and tilts to the sides.

Question number 4. How long should it take after applying chemicals?

The timing depends on the type of chemical. Urea impregnates the tree during the winter, therefore, when processing wood in early autumn, the stump is burned out in spring. Saltpeter decomposes a tree in a year or two, depending on the size of the stump, but herbicides work faster. They kill a stump up to 10 cm in diameter in six months.

Question number 5. Urgently need to get rid of the stump, what to apply?

The stump is removed in a few days using special equipment or manually. When using other means, a minimum of six months is expected.

Common mistakes when uprooting

When attracting heavy equipment, prepare the entrance to the site.

We offer tips on how to avoid mistakes when removing a stump:

1. If the site is intended for buildings, then when chemical way it is advisable to use saltpeter, it acts faster than urea. But the excess concentration of saltpeter leads to the burning of vegetation around the stump. This is taken into account when using saltpeter. For beds it is better to use urea, it produces a minimal negative effect.
2. When lifting with a winch, take precautions that most gardeners do not take into account. A rope or cable, when removing a stump from the ground, can break and injure a person. The stump abruptly jumps out of the ground and can fall on a person. Move away and take into account the flight path of the stump.
3. Uprooting by hand should be one at a time, and not immediately by a group of people. You can accidentally hit an assistant with an ax.