Predecessors and neighbors of vegetables in the beds. The predecessors of vegetable crops Crop rotation of vegetables in the garden scheme and description

Crop rotation vegetable crops- this is the main rule for obtaining a rich harvest. It is he who allows you to use the soil without depletion, successfully resist diseases and pests in the garden.

What it is

The optimally selected alternation of vegetable crops from year to year and their correct placement on the site next to each other is called vegetable rotation. annual plants, which occupied the garden last year, largely determine the harvest of this year, it depends on them which plants should be planted, and which should not be planted in any case. For example, it is recommended to grow potatoes after cucumbers and cabbage, it is possible even after beets and carrots, but after tomatoes, peppers, eggplants it is strictly forbidden.

Tomatoes should be planted after cucumbers, carrots, cauliflower, and certainly not after potatoes. Plants belonging to the same family can be grown in the same place no less than 3-4 years later, some experts insist: the period should be 5 years. Therefore, crop rotation is planned for several years at once, and it is necessary to take into account not only the plants that grew there, but also soil fertilizer, as well as crops that will grow nearby.

It is necessary to take into account the influence that vegetables have on each other. So carrots will not grow well next to cabbages - the roots of cabbage secrete substances that inhibit the growth of carrots, but these substances are probably good for tomatoes. Having a small garden, it is difficult to adhere to such a strict frequency, and even if most of it is allocated for potatoes from year to year. Therefore, vegetable growers are trying, by combining all the conditions, to draw up their own crop rotation plan, at least partially close to the ideal. Is it really that important?

What is the importance of crop rotation

In order to successfully grow and bear fruit, different vegetables absorb different trace elements. So carrots, beets, potatoes need phosphorus in large quantities, but cabbage and all types of lettuce need nitrogen. Root crops reach the lower soil layers, extracting phosphorus and potassium, and leafy greens with their short roots will not reach there, it feeds in upper layers. Tomato roots collect food at a depth of almost a meter, and corn roots reach 2 m in height.

If you plant the plot from year to year with the same crops, they will deplete one layer of soil, which means that in a year or two the gardener will not see good harvest in your area. In addition, a lot of plant residues remain in the ground, pathogens thrive in them, they will happily pounce on plants that they will not be able to resist them. All sorts of pests that have trodden the path to their favorite garden bed and settled offspring nearby will not leave the plants alone of their own free will. And the weeds will take root in such a way that they cannot be brought out. This is what can happen if you plant vegetables in one place all the time. And to prevent this from happening, you need a competent alternation of crops in the garden.

Video "We do the crop rotation on our own"

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Crop rotation is an agronomic term that refers to a regular, scientifically based annual change or alternation of crops in one or more fields included in the cycle of cultivation of these plants.

seed planning

Vegetable crop rotation contributes to the accumulation of nutrients in the soil, heals it from pathogens and wintering stages of pests. Bundling and co-cultivation create opportunities for higher yields. A crop rotation table should be in every amateur vegetable grower. It is advisable to remember the principles of fruit change according to various criteria:

• According to the type of economically valuable part of the crop, in the forward and reverse order, ROOT CROPS are replaced by FRUIT, then LEAF VEGETABLES - FLOWERS;
• On the basis of belonging to the biological family: plants from the pumpkin, legume, haze and cabbage families are replaced by nightshade.

What to plant after

In addition to a clear understanding of the sequence, it is important to know a number of rules related to soil fertility and a favorable phytosanitary regime:

• The same crop should not be cultivated in one place for more than one year. Even if the crops are different, but belong to the same botanical family, they should not follow each other, since they are damaged by the same pests and react in the same way to soil toxins;
• It is useful to leave the soil under “fallow”, without planting anything for 1-2 years, during the season the site is weeded and loosened, watered if necessary;
• Plants that were grown on the site last year leave behind volumes of root residues, which then rot and create a supply of essential macro- and microelements in the soil. In addition, bushes with a deep-penetrating root system saturate the soil with oxygen and make it moisture-permeable;
• The tops of vegetable crops and flowers significantly enrich the soil with organic matter, and the site looks clean and tidy;
• Plants that release substances that repel insect pests can significantly reduce the pesticide load on the soil and environment;
• The annual cultivation of highly demanding plants to the level of mineral nutrition significantly depletes the soil.

Watch the video! What can be planted after - tips for gardeners

Advice! Use the tops of vegetable and flower crops to make compost and create warm beds!

If you follow the above rules, the accumulation of nutrients and the improvement of the soil will occur in a systematic and targeted manner. Gardeners-gardeners need to keep a diary, where to record all the manipulations in the garden and in the garden.

Use of mixed landings

A number of studies and practical experience of vegetable growers testify to the positive effect of mixed plantings of vegetables. The most suitable landing schemes include:

• onions + carrots;
• radish + carrot;
• onion + cabbage;
• beets + cabbage.

Seeds are sown in alternating rows, while they help each other to sprout and protect against possible pests. When planning joint landings vegetables, it is important to take into account their relationship to light.

There are no shade-loving crops among vegetables. In the complete absence of direct sun rays they cease to develop and produce poor quality crops.

Table 1 - The ratio of vegetable crops to the level of illumination

Good forerunners of vegetable crops

All plantings leave behind in the soil, in addition to a set of mineral and organic substances, useful or toxic substances, root residues. If you correctly select the sequence of plants, actively use compost, then you can effectively manage soil fertility. The main vegetable crops and good predecessors for them are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 - Main vegetable crops and good predecessors for them

All plants have certain requirements for soil fertility and endure fixed amounts of nutrients. Table 3 presents the categories of vegetable and green crops according to the level of removal of nutrients from the soil.

The level of removal of nutrients from the soil means that for the cultivation of subsequent plantations nutrients must be applied back to the soil in an amount exceeding that which was taken out by the previous crop in order to accumulate fertility.

Healthy! Leave the soil under clean fallow for 1-2 years every 5-6 years of use.

The scheme of alternation of plants in the suburban area

Let's figure out how to properly draw up a vegetable crop rotation scheme for a summer residence. The primary task is to draw up a map-plan of the site indicating buildings, household objects, trees, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe beds and the ratio of the cardinal points. This will allow you to see the most illuminated and shaded areas. The easiest way to make a crop rotation is to divide the entire area under the beds into 4 sectors and move the entire set of suburban vegetable crops along them.

Important! In the garden, where crops from the first group grew last year, representatives of the second group should be planted this year, etc.

Thus, the country crop rotation includes 4 groups of vegetable plants:

• Cucumber, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, squash;
• Tomato, onion, radish, garlic, green crops;
• Carrots, beets, radishes, root parsley;
• Potato.

This combination of vegetables takes into account the ratio of the volume of needs in each type. The next year, the totality of cultures moves to the neighboring sector. The proposed scheme is very convenient. Over time, summer residents develop the habit of correctly arranging crops and there is no need to keep records.

Attention! For soil under greenhouses and temporary shelters, the requirement to observe crop rotation also remains.

Good and Bad Neighborhood

Good crop compatibility for co-planting

Many years of experience in the cultivation of garden crops allows us to compile a list of plants that favorably affect each other:

Watch the video! Vegetables neighbors in the beds

Poor crop compatibility for co-planting

The peculiarity of growing plants in summer cottages is that it is necessary to fit a wide range of crops, both tree and shrub and vegetable, in a relatively small area. The fact is that many fruit and nut trees can have bad influence on plants that are in close proximity to them. Here are examples of negative neighborhoods:

• The walnut inhibits any plants that come into contact with the substance it releases - juglone;
• Fennel oppresses all crops in close proximity;
• Legumes and wormwood do not get along well;
• Potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries grow worse if they are in the zone of influence of each other's roots, also applies to all representatives of the Solanaceae family;
• Cabbage and strawberries are two crops that attract a huge number of pests to the site, which negatively affects the growth of each crop individually.

Thus, the time spent on the design of crop rotations in the country is not wasted. A competent approach and thoughtful decisions will allow you to correctly design a country crop rotation, save on fertilizers, plant protection products and get a significant harvest of vegetables.

Watch the video! Crop rotation of vegetable crops

Crop rotation in the garden, tables of rotation of vegetable crops

Crop rotation necessary condition to collect a high and high-quality crop of vegetables, and for this, in fact, every summer resident and work on his land. Few observe it, often complaining about small size vegetable garden. Do not despair, a small plot of land is not a problem, arm yourself with a sheet of paper and a pencil, make a list of crops for planting.

Most plants in the same place cannot be grown several years in a row. The exceptions are tomatoes, beans, potatoes and strawberries. Cultures of the same family are also unacceptable to grow one after another. The vegetable is returned to its original place only after 3-4 years. An exception is if crops are alternated with rye as green manure.

Crop rotation is the rotation of crops to improve soil fertility and protect plants from pests and diseases.

Before you begin to sow the garden, draw a diagram of the beds on paper. Make a list of vegetables and herbs. Decide on the number of beds and be sure to make a “Year” column (2017, 2018, 2019, 2020…).

At the dacha, the crop rotation system allows you to:

• Let the soil rest. Plants growing annually in one place draw certain nutrients from the soil, over time they become less and gradual depletion begins, the crop is reduced. When you replace one crop with another, while applying top dressing, soil resources are restored, while giving away other nutrients.
• Destroy pests naturally. Behind holiday season pests and pathogens appear in the soil characteristic of plants. By alternating vegetable crops of different families, these pests and diseases will not be dangerous, and in a few years there will be no trace of them at all. So, growing onions for several years in a row in one place, nematodes appear in the soil, and cabbage has a keel disease.
• Loosen the soil and enrich with trace elements. A culture with long roots (buckwheat, rapeseed) will make dense soil looser, and will also be able to get phosphorus, potassium, calcium to the surface from the depths, so planting a crop with small roots in the same place next season will not require additional feeding of that or other micronutrient.
• Legumes (beans, peas) enrich the soil with useful fertilizer - nitrogen. It is formed and accumulates in the nodules of plants, which are left in the soil when cutting the tops. By the way, clover will enrich the soil with nitrogen 2.5 times more than peas, and alfalfa 5 times.
• Garlic, onions and carrots are best planted after pumpkin, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes, i.e. where weeds will be the least. On well-cultivated soil with a rich content of micro and macro elements, it is better to plant tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, and cabbage. These are the vegetable crops that are pulled from the soil useful material a lot. And in beds with a small amount of compost, it is better to plant legumes and root crops.

The crops to be replaced must not be of the same family.

By alternating vegetables of different families every year, you will already create the simplest crop rotation scheme, thus increasing yields. Let's give an example of zoning crops in a small area:

If it is difficult to maintain a planting plan, then in order not to get confused, act according to the principle of an annual change of beds with roots (root crops) to a bed of inches, then what grows on the surface of the soil.

In a crop rotation, crops can be combined, taking into account the ripening period. Plant cucumbers in 2 rows at a distance of 50 cm between them, and in the aisle and along the edges of the beds dill in a single line.

Corn is not a demanding crop and does not participate in the crop rotation system; it is a neutral predecessor to other vegetables. When planting vegetables, keep in mind that wireworm accumulates under corn.

In a small area, it is quite difficult to observe crop rotation in full, therefore good decision will be the autumn sowing of green manure.

Crop rotation table in the country

Smart garden: crop rotation and selection of "neighbors" for early vegetable crops

The basic principle when planning a garden is simple: the more often the plants change their place of residence in the garden, the better they develop and the richer they yield. And the right partners will help you survive the invasion of pests and the attack of diseases without loss.

Kohlrabi and head lettuce can be planted in the garden as early as mid-May

When allocating space in the garden, it is difficult at first to take into account such important aspects as crop rotation and mixing of crops. But these are temporary difficulties: after training for several seasons, you will be able to solve the question of “who is with whom” almost “automatically”. It is worth paying attention to these fundamental points, because both the quality and quantity of the future harvest will depend on them.

On the picture: on small garden You can also grow a decent crop of vegetables. But before you take up the shovel, you should make a rough list of the main crops and choose the right companions for them.

In a small garden, you can also grow a decent crop of vegetables.

Crop rotation refers to the annual alternation of different crops in the beds. At the same time, vegetable plants and herbs from the same family should be on the same bed no more than once every 2–3 years (some species, such as parsley, should ideally return to their original position even less often - once every 4– 5 years). The thing is that close relatives, replacing each other in one place, contribute to the spread of their inherent diseases and pests, which in this case are transmitted from predecessors to descendants. About which plants can be combined in mixed plantings, and which are not worth it, you will learn from the articles:

• What grows with what? Compatibility of plants in the garden
• They feel good with each other, or about the compatibility of vegetable crops
• Choose by similarity

Another reason for moving plants from bed to bed is the following: due to the alternation of nutrient-consuming species, such as celery, with less voracious (for example, parsnips) and very small ones (the same peas), you can make the most efficient use of the nutrients accumulated in the soil and save a lot on fertilizer.

On the picture: cabbage and parsnips get along well in the same garden. Parsnip roots that go deep into the soil absorb nutrients from the lower soil layer, cabbage, on the other hand, has a more superficial root system and takes nutrition from the middle layer. Accordingly, plants do not compete with each other.

Cabbage and parsnips get along well in the same garden

Growing plants in mixed culture pursues other goals. Vegetable plants in tandem with spicy herbs and flower flyers are in a particularly advantageous position: with the help of their fragrant neighbors, the “protagonists” of the beds effectively “fight off” pests and diseases that traditionally attack one or another species. As a bonus, vegetable plants also thrive thanks to the growth-stimulating root secretions of some partners.

Our market will help you choose seeds of green and spicy crops, where offers from the largest online stores are collected.

Examples of successful combinations of plants in the garden:

1. Kohlrabi, coriander and horned violet - a decorative trio connected by a mutually beneficial partnership: slugs do not like the smell of violets, which means that you will get the entire crop of vegetable plants, and not ubiquitous pests.

Kohlrabi, coriander and horned violet

2. Leek as a neighbor protects root celery plants from attack by rust fungi. And that, in turn, with a strong aroma scares away onion moth and onion fly from its caring neighbor.

Leek protects root celery plants from attack by rust fungi

3. The tandem of kale and marigolds pleases the eye with a spectacular combination. If only edible leaves are cut off from cabbage as needed, it will produce a crop of fresh greens until the end of summer, especially since marigold neighbors will scare away whiteflies from a useful partner.

4. Calendula is indispensable in a garden with tomatoes - the plant scares away harmful root nematodes that live in the soil from a prolific neighbor.

5. Red cabbage grows best in the garden after peas or spinach.

Left: a tandem of kale and marigolds. In the center: calendula is indispensable in a garden with tomatoes. Right: Red cabbage grows best in the garden next to peas or spinach.

Sowing and planting dates for early vegetable plants you will find in the table. It also indicates suitable partners and unwanted neighbors in the garden.

Early vegetable plants: the perfect partnership

By the way, large gaps between rows with freshly planted seedlings, which will soon grow into lush bushes, can be safely used for sowing early intermediate crops - lettuce, radish or spinach. If these plants are sown in several stages, the harvest can be harvested throughout the summer season.

Take note:
Green manure plants, such as phacelia, have a beneficial effect on physical properties soil: improve its structure and increase fertility. And yet - they attract pollinating insects to cultivated plants.

Green manure plants, such as phacelia, have a beneficial effect on the physical properties of the soil

Crop rotation table in the garden: rules for alternating vegetables

Crop rotation is the order in which crops are grown over the years. certain territory. Even a novice gardener knows that one crop cannot be grown in the same place for a long time. By correctly alternating vegetables in the garden, you can achieve excellent results: increase soil fertility, protect plants from pests and diseases, and improve agricultural technology. It is useful for any gardener to know what crop rotations are and how to create your own crop rotation plan.

The soil in which the same type of plant is grown every year becomes tired and yields decline. Crop rotation is designed to prevent soil fatigue. If you grow crops for several years in a row in the same place, the following negative consequences arise:

• Each vegetable uses certain substances for nutrition, so in a few years the soil will become poorer, and the plants will begin to suffer from a lack of necessary elements.
• Pests that hibernate in the soil and infect a certain crop, having come to the surface in the spring, will immediately find plants suitable for them and quickly destroy the plantings. The same applies to diseases.
• The root system of each plant releases certain substances into the soil. After a few years, these compounds will accumulate in the soil and begin to interfere with the development of this species.

Proper crop rotation allows you to:

• in one year to restore the microflora and natural fertility of the soil;
• remove the problem of incompatibility of cultures;
• increase the water permeability and hygroscopicity of the soil;
• rational distribution of organic fertilizers;
• rationally use the area during one season, getting several harvests of different crops from the garden;
• clean the soil from perennial and annual weeds.

In organic farming, crop rotation is extremely important, since this system does not use chemical methods protection and mineral fertilizers. A high yield is achieved not through the use of "chemistry", but with the help of competent and well-organized agricultural technology.

To comply with crop rotation, the site is divided into three zones. The first is occupied by cultures demanding soil fertility, which require a lot of nutrients: cabbage, pumpkin, celery. Legumes are planted in the second zone, which in organic farming should occupy large areas. These are peas, grain and asparagus beans, beans, peanuts. The third zone is reserved for root crops.

In each zone, the rotation of crops is in the following order: demanding crop - legumes - root crops. If potatoes need to be included in the turnover, the alternation will be as follows: potatoes - a demanding crop - legumes - root crops. Strawberries can also be introduced into circulation. Then the garden will have to be divided into 5 zones, and the area occupied by strawberries will be planted with potatoes in the fifth year.

There are plots where I grow the same crop year after year. Most often these are potato or cabbage allotments.

The field should be divided into 3 parts and annually sow each part in turn with green manure - herbs that cleanse the land of soil pests and increase fertility. A good green manure for potatoes is winter rye. It is sown in August-September, and in the spring or in the middle of the next year they are embedded in the soil. Part of the field resting in current year, can be sown with marigolds, calendula, nasturtium. These plants heal the soil, inhibit weeds, decorate the site. In autumn, after flowering, they are buried to a depth of 15-20 cm.

If there are areas heavily overgrown with perennial weeds on the site, you can plant a pumpkin in them. This aggressive vegetable crop occupies a large area and with its large leaves oppresses weeds, preventing them from breaking through to the light.

The gardener can make a crop rotation based on his own needs. This is an easy task, you just have to try.

To draw up a crop rotation you will need:

• make a list of crops that will be grown on the site;
• calculate the number of beds.

To simplify the work, it is worth creating a separate folder. A garden plan with lined beds is put into it. A tracing paper is applied to the plan and the types of vegetable crops are recorded on it. In this way, predecessors can be easily controlled and rotation can be planned.

The second way is to make a crop rotation table in the garden in the Word program, putting down the years in the columns. The number of lines should correspond to the number of beds on the site.

To compile the simplest crop rotation, you can focus on the belonging of vegetables to botanical families. For home gardening, this is enough, but there are other, more complex options.

Vegetable crops are divided into 4 groups:

• sheet, including green onion and white cabbage;
• fruit - nightshade, pumpkin and other vegetables grown for the sake of fruits;
• root vegetables, including potatoes and radishes;
• legumes.

Rotation of cultures suburban area will be as follows:

• bed 1 - fruit;
• bed 2 - root crops;
• bed 3 - legumes;
• bed 4 - leafy.

The next year, the beds are shifted one counterclockwise, that is, fruit beds go to the fourth, leafy - to the third, and so on. It turns out that each culture returns to its old place only after 4 years.

In this case, vegetables are divided into groups depending on their organic needs:

• highly demanding - cabbage, pumpkin, sunflower;
• moderately demanding - solanaceous;
• undemanding - celery;
• undemanding - legumes.

In such a crop rotation, humus or compost is applied only to beds with cabbage, pumpkin and sunflowers. The following year, tomatoes and other nightshades are planted at this place. These crops love well-rotted organics. In the third year, crops are planted that do not tolerate organics. It's primarily carrots. In the fourth year, place is given to legumes - they do not need organic matter at all, they themselves enrich the soil with nitrogen. In the fifth year, organic matter is introduced into the garden, cabbage or pumpkin crops are planted, and the cycle repeats.

Crop Requirements for Fertilizers

This is the simplest crop rotation option. The gardener only needs to know which family each vegetable belongs to.

Affiliation garden plants to botanical families:

• Cruciferous - cabbage, horseradish, radish, watercress, turnip, mustard leaf;
• Celery - carrots, parsnips, celery, parsley, dill;
• Compositae - salads (head and lettuce), artichokes, sunflower;
• Marevye - spinach, beets;
• Pumpkin - cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons, melons;
• Onions - onions, garlic;
• Nightshade - tomatoes, physalis, eggplant, peppers, potatoes;
• Legumes - peas, beans, beans, soybeans;
• Bluegrass - corn.

Plants are returned to their original place no earlier than after 3 years.

Cultures are planted in the following sequence: nightshade - legumes - cabbage - umbrella.

Two more schemes will do:

• Pumpkin - legumes - cabbage - haze.
• Nightshade - legumes - cabbage - haze.

In these crop rotations, onions are planted before winter after nightshade.

Each crop extracts the trace elements it needs from the soil, and in different proportions.

Table: the needs of vegetable plants in trace elements:

culture

The most intensively extracted element from the soil

Iron, manganese, cobalt, boron

Zinc, celery, boron

Cabbage and root crops strongly deplete the soil. Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen. If, after harvesting the grain, the stem and leaves of peas, beans and other legumes are planted in the soil, the earth will be saturated not only with nitrogen, but also with many microelements. Onions, tomatoes, zucchini, peppers and eggplants deplete the soil to an average degree. Spinach, lettuce, cucumbers almost do not deplete the soil.

Under the most demanding culture, the full rate of organic matter is added. The remaining vegetables are fertilized taking into account the aftereffect of the main fertilizer. In the first year, plants remove from the soil 30% of the nitrogen and phosphorus introduced with manure and half of the potassium. The rest of the nutrients remain in the soil, so it is impractical to apply manure annually.

Crop rotation may look like this: demanding on fertility - medium demanding on fertility - undemanding on fertility - enriching the soil.

This is the most difficult type of crop rotation. When compiling it, it is assumed that each plant has good and bad predecessors. If plants are planted after a good predecessor, the yield will increase, after a bad one, it will drop sharply. The table will help to make a crop rotation.

Table: choice of predecessors:

Predecessor

Cabbage

Carrot

Cucumber

Tomato

Beet

Potato

Radishes, cucumber, peas, carrots, annual herbs

Radish, onion, cucumber

Onions, cabbage, potatoes

Cabbage, radish, cucumber

Carrots, onions, beets

Onion, cucumber, radish

Onions, garlic, potatoes

Peas, garlic, carrots, potatoes

Radishes, beets, carrots, peas, tomato

Beets, onions, zucchini, potatoes, peas

Cucumber, garlic, radish

Peas, garlic, potatoes

Cabbage, beets, tomato

Tomato, zucchini, beets, cabbage

Tomato, zucchini, beets, potatoes, peas, cabbage

Cabbage, tomato, beets, carrots, zucchini

In small areas, it is irrational to include such an important crop as potatoes in the crop rotation. Potatoes are grown in large areas as a monoculture. To prevent the soil from depleting, a large amount of rotted organic matter and mineral fertilizers are annually applied to the field. Once every few years, the field is sown with green manure to improve the soil from bacteria and phytopathogenic fungi.

Corn should also be removed from the crop rotation. Maize is undemanding to predecessors and is itself a good predecessor for most crops. However, under corn, the land is quickly depleted and a large amount of organic matter is required annually.

Many crops have a short growing season. In order to rationally use the area, it is necessary to apply repeated crops, placing several crops on one bed during the season. You need to know which cultures tolerate the neighborhood and which do not.

Rules for combining plants:

• Peas can be planted next to corn, carrots, cucumbers or strawberries. Peas do not tolerate the proximity of other legumes and cabbage.
• Good neighbors for eggplants are beans, garlic, spicy greens. Eggplant tolerates the neighborhood of strawberries, cucumbers and parsley quite well.
• Zucchini can be planted on the same bed with corn and any legumes. Zucchini is quite tolerant of eggplant, strawberries, sunflowers, garlic and carrots, but potatoes, tomatoes and radishes are not tolerated.
• Early cabbage can be combined with lettuce, green beans and carrots. Culture does not like the neighborhood of peas, onions, parsley and garlic.
• Potatoes go well with beans and spinach. Permissible crops are cabbage, corn, onions, carrots, garlic. Invalid - peas, cucumbers, beets, pumpkins and tomatoes.
• Corn is a good neighbor for most crops, except for beets.
• Onions grow well next to carrots, tomatoes, beets and even garlic, but on the same bed with cabbage, dill or beans it will not feel good.
• Leek "loves" strawberries and tomatoes, "does not like" peas and onions.
• Perennial onions can be planted on beds with strawberries, carrots, cucumbers. It is impossible - next to legumes and garlic.
• Carrots - cultivation is allowed along with tomatoes, garlic, spinach and cabbage. You can not plant carrots next to beets, dill and beans.
• Cucumbers feel good next to cabbage, beets, beans, dill. Suitable neighbors for cucumbers are eggplant, strawberries, onions, carrots, garlic and spinach. Neighborhood with potatoes, tomatoes and radishes is unacceptable.

An example of a crop rotation with a combination of crops:

1. 1. The first year - cabbage + cucumbers.
2. 2. The second year - tomatoes.
3. 3. The third year - carrots + onions.
4. 4. Fourth year - potatoes.

So, crop rotation of vegetable crops is a necessary agricultural technique that allows you to protect plants from pests and diseases, and increase productivity. When compiling a crop rotation, various factors can be taken into account: belonging to a botanical family, the degree of need for organic matter, the removal of trace elements from the soil. Eat ready-made schemes crop rotations, but in a small area it is better to draw up a rotation plan yourself based on the needs of your family.

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Crop rotation is the process of alternating different crops on a particular plot of land. In agricultural technology, the following types of plants are distinguished: vegetable, fruit and berry, grain and legumes, ornamental and flower.

A correctly drawn up sequence scheme for growing vegetables and other crops solves the following main tasks:

• maintaining the fertility of the land;
• increase in productivity;
• reducing the risk of various diseases of cultivated crops.

The crop rotation scheme is drawn up based on compatibility certain plants. The grounds are the scientific and practical recommendations of various research institutes of crop production and departments of agricultural institutes and academies.

Why alternate landings

The bottom line is that a certain vegetable cannot be grown in the same place. It depends on a number of reasons. Any plant absorbs the necessary trace elements from the soil. If the crop rotation in the summer cottage is violated or not fully observed, then the earth will be exhausted, fertility will decrease, which will negatively affect the future harvest.

Another factor influencing the rotation of vegetable crops is the moment that pests and pathogenic bacteria, dangerous specifically for this type of plant, which will destroy crops. For example, an onion fly is not afraid of carrots, a root wireworm is not dangerous to bulbous ones. Therefore, carrots and onions are good interchangeable plants.

For onions and garlic cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, varieties of pumpkin crops, beans, peas, carrots can be considered good predecessors.

Cucumbers and gourds must be planted after cabbage or onions and garlic. It is undesirable for them to allocate areas where cabbage or tomatoes grew a year earlier. They, in turn, no two years in a row plant in the same place.

It should not be done so that the predecessors of vegetables when planting were plants of the same family, since they subject to the same disease, and pests remaining in the soil will continue to infect the garden. For example, a cruciferous flea will destroy a radish if there was a cabbage bed in this place last year. Potatoes and tomatoes are also members of the same family, and the Colorado potato beetle wintering in the soil will gladly pounce on tomatoes if potatoes grew here last year.

Crop rotation scheme

Crop rotation in the country is recommended to be several years ahead. Such advice is offered by experienced gardeners and gardeners. This is one of the factors for obtaining an excellent harvest. The main recommendations for obtaining the correct rotation of crops in a crop rotation will be listed below. The first point to follow is the need to conditionally divide the garden into four squares, adhering to an arbitrary order.

Planting vegetables will alternate in a circle. In the second year, each species will move to a neighboring site. With this method, each vegetable will appear in its original place only after 4 years. Such a crop rotation in the garden is very convenient, you do not need to draw up complex schemes.

The bed where strawberries used to grow should be fertilized with fertilizers, since this berry depletes the soil. In autumn, you need to dig up the soil and apply mineral fertilizers. From organic matter, nothing has been invented better than humus. Since strawberry and strawberry seedlings have a high nitrogen intake, planting beans, peas or beans is recommended in this place. They are excellent siderates.

In order to properly organize the crop rotation of vegetable crops in a summer cottage, the table below will help you understand which vegetable predecessors can be ideal when planting. There are also undesirable or completely unacceptable options. With this alternation, the garden can be partially cleared of possible pests in a natural way, and summer residents can get rid of the need to spray plants with pesticides. Increases the chance of getting environmentally friendly products.

This table of crop rotation of vegetable crops in the garden should be at hand when allocating places on the site. Based on their own practical observations, each gardener can improve it and supplement it with new crops.

Compatibility of different vegetables

There is one good crop rotation rule, it allows you to increase productivity and optimally distribute a small garden space. A bed of beans will organically coexist with potato rows, as it will scare off Colorado potato beetles. Nearby you can also plant cabbage, spinach, eggplant, dill, lettuce. They will remove excess moisture from the soil, and the potatoes will be less susceptible to rotting. And onions and garlic will protect tomato plantings and second bread from late blight.

In order to organize crop rotation of vegetable crops, possible neighborhood table different plants will also not be superfluous.

There are antagonist plants. For example, wormwood depresses vegetables near it. Some cultures are irreconcilable neighbors. Examples include legumes and onions. If the bed of the latter is located next to the pea crops, do not expect a good harvest from either side. It will be bad to grow nearby tomatoes and strawberries.

For grain crops in the fields is also necessary competent crop rotation. In the absence of crop planting planning, yields in fields and farmlands can fall by 20 or 30 percent. A competent agronomist must correctly distribute when the land needs to be left fallow (this is a kind of rest), and what to sow in this place next year.

Fruit trees in the area

Placement of fruit and berry crops in summer cottages and household plots should also be well planned. Specialists have developed a compatibility table for shrubs and trees. Chaotic plantings lead to reduced fruiting and, as a result, a poor harvest in subsequent years. Since the specificity of tree planting is such that it may take a few years to find out, it becomes difficult to correct this problem.

An example of this is cherries and cherries. They can't stand close proximity other fruit trees. It is better to plant them away from the main garden. Vegetable crops also do not grow near those places where cherries dominate. Its powerful root system suppresses everything around it. And such a combination as a pear and an apple tree or an apricot and a plum help each other. The neighborhood of raspberries with peach also brings good results.

Crop rotation refers to the successive cultivation of different crops in the same area. For many summer residents, this causes inconvenience, and they neglect this rule. Is it really necessary to observe crop rotation, what advantages does it give?

Why crop rotation is needed:

1. If from year to year to plant the same crop (or similar) on permanent place, then an excessive amount of harmful microorganisms, bacteria and insect larvae will accumulate in the soil, which in the future will damage crop plants more, thereby reducing the overall yield.
2. Related plants use the same nutrients for nutrition. When re-planting (without a break) in the same place, a similar culture will lack nutrition, which will negatively affect its development.
3. The root system of plants releases toxins into the soil, which drastically reduce the quality of the soil for related crops.

Such negative factors accumulate gradually. Without crop rotation, the soil becomes poorer every year. Even the application of fertilizers will not fully save the situation.

Crop rotation rules

First, let's look at the general rules:

• For several years, it is impossible to plant not only the same vegetables, but also related crops in one area. For the same reason, it is pointless to carry out crop rotation between plants belonging to the same family.
• Try not to return the crop to its original place of cultivation for as long as possible.
• Do not leave unused areas that fall out of the crop rotation. Sow green manure on them to enrich the soil.

Planning should begin by making a list of all the annual vegetable crops that you plant on the site.

The next step is to calculate the number of beds that will be required for crop rotation from the compiled list. It is important to find a balance here - you can plant up to 70% of the territory with potatoes, and allocate only 30% for the rest of the plants taken together. In this case, potatoes should be excluded from the crop rotation.

As practice has shown, it is most convenient to divide the garden into 4-5 parts.

Compatibility table

Good luck with your harvest!

The harvest largely depends on how competently you plan the placement of vegetable crops on the site. Therefore, drawing up a crop rotation scheme is an important step in completing each season and preparing for a new one. Why, when planting a certain plant, it is necessary to know its predecessors, we will tell you right now

Crop rotation in a vegetable garden means changing where vegetables are planted in the garden each season.

This practice improves soil quality, reduces soil-borne disease problems, and helps control pests. While some plants take nutrients from the soil, others add them to the ground. That's why good crop rotation is an important, and also completely free, tool for getting a good harvest.

In any case, crop rotation is not new idea. People have known about its benefits for at least 1200 years, and there is convincing evidence that the Egyptians applied this principle quite successfully, and European farmers performed the simplest practice of two-field cultivation - they sown on half of the plot, and the second was set aside for fallow, that is, for rest. The following season, the sites were reversed.

Then farmers began to use a system of three fields. By dividing their land into three equal parts (instead of two), they could harvest more each year. Usually, oats and barley were grown in the same field in spring, and then switched to autumn rye or winter wheat. The second field was devoted to the cultivation of crops with the addition of nitrogen, such as beans, peas and lentils. The third field was resting. These fields rotated in this way each year, allowing one section to rest continuously.

Crop rotation instead of pesticides

Proper crop rotation helps break the cycle of specific pests and diseases. This means that pests and diseases cannot accumulate to destructive levels either in the soil or on the host plants themselves. Crop rotation has "crowded out" their favorite host plants while harmful insects and plant pathogens have "rested" during the winter, and, in fact, their new generation will not find a source of food to thrive and reproduce.

Then, different plants compete with weeds.

For example, after potatoes, tomatoes, peas, cabbage, the beds remain relatively clean, which makes it easier to grow their followers. Pumpkin, thanks to its dense foliage, also perfectly suppresses weeds. Therefore, if you have acquired a neglected area with a large amount of weeds, it makes sense to give the territory specifically for these crops, carrying out their sequential rotation.

In an ideal crop rotation, given biological characteristics vegetable crops, plants from the same botanical family end up in the same place after three years or more, especially if there are soil diseases, say late blight. But if the ideal is unattainable for reasons small area, there is also an abbreviated version, more on that below.

Let's look at the principle of crop rotation on specific example with all your favorite tomatoes.

We all know that tomato plants develop slowly and are mainly grown through seedlings. Since the culture is demanding on top dressing, organic matter has been planted in the garden since autumn, and in the spring, when planting in the wells, mineral fertilizers are added. And then, during the growing season, liquid foliar feeding is carried out - also depending on the degree of vegetation. So, from the middle of the season, spraying on the leaf begins to avoid top rot.

Tomatoes love moisture. Their root system is located in the upper layers of the soil, which requires frequent watering. As a result, private watering and shallow roots lead to overconsolidation of the soil.

Therefore, after tomatoes, we will plant plants with deep penetrating and strong roots: radishes, radishes, beets and carrots. Or those that are not members of the nightshade family: cucumber, onion, garlic and beans.

Accordingly, in order to avoid the transmission of common diseases and further depletion of the soil, we will not plant other nightshades: potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes, peppers.

Neutral predecessors of the tomato itself will be celery or zucchini. The best are beans.

Compatibility groups - reducers and consumers

Thus, we see that we need to distribute landings into compatibility groups. For a gardener, it is important to understand which plants deplete the soil the most, and which, on the contrary, are its builders.

• The most greedy consumer plants include tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, eggplant, beets, lettuce
• Garlic, onions, peppers, potatoes, radishes and turnips have a more modest appetite.
• Soil restoring plants are considered to be peas, beans and ground cover crops such as clover or winter rye.

Rotating these three crop groups allows for the best use of the nutrients in the soil.

The easiest three-year crop rotation would result in the most demanding plants being planted in the first year, the less demanding crops in the second year, and the fertility restoring plants in the third year.

Such a crop rotation implies the presence of separate planting areas for each of the three groups of crop rotation.

By the way, ground cover crops can be added after harvest. Since tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, eggplant, as a rule, complete the growing season in early autumn, it is good to sow winter rye or beans, mustard after them.

In the spring, a cover crop is incorporated into the soil, and foliar crops are planted in the same beds during the rotation.

It will look like this:

• A crop with fruits, such as tomatoes, squash, eggplant, or peppers
• Ground covers, including "green manure" - plants that accumulate valuable nutrients, namely, legumes
• Green crops
• Roots

Note that even on the traditional six acres experienced gardeners manages to grow more than 20 varieties of cultivated plants. Leaving aside experiments with exotics, like bananas, everyone can harvest a borscht set (potatoes, onions, garlic, cabbage, parsley, carrots, tomatoes) with some diligence.

The practice of planting fruit trees and shrubs, although perennials, for obvious reasons, are not included in the crop rotation system, is very useful for improving the microclimate on the site. Such plantings protect from cold and wind, trap snow, serve as a home for beneficial insectivorous birds.

In addition, between fruit trees there is still room for lettuce, dill, basil.

Do you have a plan

The question “what to plant after what” should arise before the start of the season. More precisely, crop rotation on the site should be carried out every year, taking into account last year's crop rotation scheme. Your personal "diary of an agronomist" will greatly simplify the matter. We recommend making notes on which diseases and pests affected certain crops in order to plan preventive treatments in advance.

In the event that you have just bought a plot where there are old trees, stumps and thickets of shrubs that have ceased to bear fruit, then a set of measures is first carried out: uprooting, weed control and soil improvement. acidic soils lime, sandy ones are enriched with peat, and less fertile ones are fed with minerals and organic matter.

Raised beds will the best choice to improve the garden, which was abandoned by the previous owners, as they provide better drainage and easier weeding. In the most extreme case, while priority work is underway, you can start growing the main crops in buckets or large plastic bags.

Success largely depends not only on natural factors, but also on your personal work, which you invest in the future harvest.