Trim the rhododendron after flowering. Rhododendron: "flower explosion": cultivation and care in the open field. Preparation of rhododendrons for winter and shelter for the winter season

Unlike other ornamental shrubs, rhododendrons have a well-shaped bush, so pruning should be minimal. Even after transplantation, rhododendrons do not require pruning, as they are transplanted with a large root ball and the activity of the roots practically does not stop.

Sometimes you have to intervene in this process: when updating old bushes, if necessary, reduce the height of large bushes, when leaves and shoots freeze. In young seedlings, the central vegetative buds are plucked out to form a sprawling bush.

Pruning is necessary when the plants are so tall and spreading that they close the windows, block the paths in the garden ... The bushes are pruned in the place where the thickness of the shoots reaches 2-4 cm. Immediately after pruning the branches, the wounds should be covered with garden pitch or oil paint to wounded areas did not dry out and did not become infected. After 3-4 weeks, dormant buds that are on the shoots awaken, the renewal of the old bush begins. A year later, the plant restores decorativeness.

If it is necessary to update very old plants, they are pruned at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground. At the same height, plants are cut that are badly damaged during severe frosts or badly broken. In the first year, one half of the bush is cut, and the next year the second. In this case, the update process proceeds better.

The bushes should be cut very early in the spring (in the climatic conditions of our country at the end of March or the first half of April). Branches should be cut near dormant buds. Cut bushes during the growing season should be regularly fed and watered abundantly.

Not many rhododendrons can grow in central Russia.

They can be divided into:

1) deciduous species and varieties;

2) evergreen small-leaved rhododendrons;

3) evergreen large-leaved rhododendrons.

Deciduous species and varieties are sold and planted mainly in spring. To create a dense crown, annual pinching of young shoots is recommended for several years. They do it in June.

At the end of summer, all underdeveloped and frail shoots inside the crown are removed.

Small deciduous species like Kamchatka rhododendron need rejuvenating pruning every 5-7 years.

Large species and varieties (Rh. x knaphii, x mollis, viscosum, сanadensis, flavum, etc.) rejuvenate every 15-20 years, cutting the crown in half. In case of unsuccessful overwintering of flower buds, they are removed by pruning in June.

Evergreen small-leaved rhododendrons (Rh.dahuricum, ledebourii, sichotiense, as well as Japanese undersized "azaleas") need pruning, which stimulates the branching of young bushes.

These types can be formed even in the form of balls, but it takes a lot of effort. Most gardeners prefer not to touch them at all, since even 25-year-old branches bloom profusely.

Shoots of evergreen large-leaved rhododendrons over the years in our climate turn into long, unattractive branches, in which leaves are only on the tops of the shoots. Leaves become smaller, flowering weakens.

To prevent this from happening, it is required to cut 1-3 shoots from those that are in the spring to stimulate the development of lateral branches.

Another subtlety: in large-leaved rhododendrons, after flowering, it is necessary to carefully break out the resulting fruits with the stem of the entire inflorescence with your fingers. This is necessary for the development of lateral buds and normal flowering for the next season.

Rhododendrons. Personal experience (video)

How to properly care for rhododendrons in the garden in spring, summer and autumn? ===== We are considering caring for rhododendrons in the open field in spring, summer, autumn and winter. Planting lays the foundation for further care of the plant in the open field. If it is planted in the right place in the right soil mixture, then further care is much easier. We described how to do this correctly in a special material - see the bottom of the page. In spring, the flower wakes up after winter and you need to help it recover, save it from drying out and rotting. Caring for rhododendrons in spring and summer consists in regular watering and spraying, top dressing, pruning and disease prevention. We save the kidneys from drying out After the active snow melting (mid-March - early April), the soil can slowly thaw, and the sun can bake. The evaporation of moisture by the buds and leaves increases, and the roots are shackled and have not awakened. Therefore, free the bush from last year's frozen mulch (you can loosen and remove half of the layer) so that the ground near the roots thaws faster. This will allow the roots to start working and save the buds from drying out. It is especially important to quickly remove the mulch if the winter was cold or with little snow. Pour the rosewood with hot water (even boiling water) and spray with warm water. If the rhododendron wintered without shelter, then make a protective shield from the sun on the south and west sides. Drive in the stakes and stretch the fabric. Read more in the article "Preparing for winter" - link at the bottom of the page. After the soil has completely thawed to a depth of 20-30 cm (beginning - mid-April), on a cloudy day or in the evening, remove the protective cover (covering material) or winter shelter. If signs of burns are still found on the shoots, the buds have dried up and do not begin to grow, then spray them with warm water every day, and every 3-4 days with a growth stimulator (Zircon, Epin, etc.).

Rhododendron pruning Trim the plant only if necessary (once every 2-5 years): if you need to update an old specimen, shorten a bush that is too tall or remove frozen stems. Classical shaping pruning is not necessary due to the fact that the natural shape of the plant is correct and attractive in 99% of cases. Rules Pruning is carried out before the buds swell (mid-March - early April). The cut must be made directly above the dormant growth point - a small pinkish swelling-thickness. Be sure to learn to identify them. Treat each cut with garden pitch. Provide pruned specimens with regular watering and fertilizing during the active growing season. Specific features Small deciduous species need to be rejuvenated after 5-7 years, and large ones (Canadian and others) every 14-18 years. Small-leaved evergreen species up to 4-5 years old should be pruned to stimulate branching. If desired, you can even create a ball shape. Since powerful flowering is observed even in 20-25-year-old branches, they are rarely pruned. Evergreen species with large leaves cut each spring 1-3 shoots from their total number in order to better develop lateral branches. Otherwise, after a few years, these shoots will become ugly and long branches with leaves only at the top. The leaves themselves will become small, and the flowering will be weak. How to prune a large bush? Trim the shoots in places 2-4 cm thick near the dormant buds. After 20-25 days, the dormant buds will wake up and grow, and the next year the decorative effect of the bush will be restored. How to rejuvenate a bush? To rejuvenate very old or severely frost- or wind-damaged bushes, prune branches at a level of 30-40 cm from the soil near dormant buds: first one half, and a year later the other, to facilitate rehabilitation

Tip If you want a thick and sprawling deciduous rhododendron, then pinch the first 3-4 years after planting seasonal shoots in June, and in September cut off all weak stems inside the crown. How to water a rhododendron? For a plant, a deficit or excess of water is undesirable. A prolonged lack of water prevents the seasonal growth of shoots, impairs flowering and reduces decorativeness (leaves dry out, turn yellow, and old leaves fall off en masse). Leaves signal a lack of moisture. Due to the loss of turgor, they droop, wither and become matte. The lack of watering exacerbates the situation: the leaves turn yellow, turn brown (edges and central vein), dry out and die. "Rosewood" is harmful to stagnant water, and it is sensitive to excessive moisture in the soil. This disrupts the development of the flower, as little oxygen is supplied to the roots. At the same time, the leaves also turn yellow, wither and fall off. The frequency of watering is affected by the planting site, the composition of the soil mixture and climatic conditions. Rhododendron, planted in a favorable place and in the right soil mixture, needs more rare watering. Ideally, the frequency of watering is determined independently by the condition of the leaves and the amount of precipitation. As soon as they become matte (shine disappeared) and drooped a little, they need moisture. Therefore, follow these signs and accumulate your personal experience. The most important periods for watering: active growth and development (April - mid-July) and preparation for winter (mid-September - November). April - July During the period of intensive vegetation, during the flowering period and after it, an increased need for moisture is observed, the root ball should not be allowed to dry out. Therefore, every 4-7 days, pour 10-14 liters of water into the near-stem circle under an adult bush. If spring and summer are hot, and there is little rain, then you need to water more often and supplement with spraying. Spray the leaves with water every 2-3 days in the early morning or late evening. August and September At the same time, in August and September it is already necessary to water less often - once 8-12 days 10-14 liters of water, otherwise secondary growth of the stems is possible. Loosening the soil Some experts do not recommend loosening the soil near the bush because of the superficial root system, which is easy to hook and break. Emerging weeds must be pulled out without digging for the same reason. Others believe that it is desirable to weed 3-4 times over the summer, but very carefully: loosen 1-2 times in one place 3-4 cm deep. Tips Water for watering and spraying rosewood should be soft and acidic (pH 4. 0-5.0) - a teaspoon of citric or oxalic acid per 10 liters of water Top dressing and fertilizer Proper top dressing ensures good growth and development, powerful and beautiful flowering, and also increases the resistance of rhododendron to adverse external factors (pests, frost, disease, wind). The most important periods: March - April and immediately after flowering. It is advisable to use liquid top dressing. At the same time, a low concentration of nutrient solution is needed, since the rhododendron grows slowly, and the roots lie close to the surface. Signs of the need for top dressing Light, pale leaves without shine. Yellowish green shoots. Little seasonal increase. Weak or no flowering. Old leaves fall off en masse in August. Leaf discoloration is the first symptom of a nutrient deficiency. What fertilizer to use for rhododendrons? A good option would be to use a special fertilizer, it has a balanced composition of mineral elements and fast solubility. You can also use complex mineral fertilizers, such as "Kemira-universal" and organic. Organic fertilizers According to experts, organic fertilizers are more preferable because they are better absorbed than mineral fertilizers and improve the soil (friability, moisture and air permeability). Of these, it is better to use: blood meal, semi-rotted cow dung and horn meal. Do not use: bird droppings, pig and horse manure. Fill semi-rotted manure with water 1:15-20 and leave for 3-4 days. Water the bush before top dressing (the root ball should be completely wet). You can only use from April to the end of June. In spring or autumn, semi-rotted manure can be scattered near the bush with a 4-5 cm layer on the surface of the earth, so that with the incoming moisture from rain or melting snow, the necessary elements feed it. Mineral Fertilizers Since Rosewood prefers acidic soils, an acidic fertilizer must be used. These are mainly: potassium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium phosphate and sulfate - ammonium, potassium, calcium and magnesium. Under the ban - fertilizers containing chlorine. The nutrient solution for top dressing should be 0.1-0.2% i.e. 1 g of a substance per liter of water, and potash fertilizers - 0.05-0.1%. Feeding schedule After winter, the rhododendron needs to be fed, and if the acidity level has increased (“HOW TO CHECK SOIL ACIDITY?”), Then you need to slightly acidify the soil. To acidify, add a tablespoon of vinegar, oxalic or citric acid. Especially if the bush grows on loamy or sandy soil. After the snow melts (late March - early April), water the plant with mullein infusion or dissolve 20 g of ammonium sulfate, 6 potassium sulfate and 8 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water. After that, immediately mulch the trunk circle with a layer of 6-8 cm with a layer of coniferous sawdust or peat. Such a mulch will reduce acidity, retain moisture longer and prevent the active growth of weeds. The base of the bush cannot be covered, it is better to sprinkle it with coarse sand to prevent rot and stagnant water. After 20-25 days or 10-14 days before flowering (beginning of budding). The same composition. During flowering or immediately after it. In order for the bush to bloom more powerfully or restore strength: 8 g of superphosphate and 6 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. To maintain the desired acidity of the soil after the first and second top dressing, it is advisable to water with this solution: 8 g of potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water. If watered with mullein infusion, then there is no need. 2nd option Before flowering. Apply 20-30 grams of special fertilizer or "Kemira wagon" (2-3 grams per liter) under the bush. In any of the options, add nitrogen for growth: 5-10 grams of carbamide (urea) or ammonium nitrate. Immediately after flowering. Similar feed. Late July - early August. 30 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium sulfate + 10 g of complex mineral fertilizer per 10 liters of water. Top dressing accelerates the lignification of shoots and prevents their growth in late summer - early autumn. 3rd option After the snow melts (end of March - beginning of April). Scatter on the surface of the earth for 1 m2 or a copy above 100 cm: 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate or 50 g of ammonium sulfate and magnesium. After flowering (late May - early June). 20 g of ammonium sulfate and 10 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. This option is much lighter than liquid dressings and is suitable for those who have a large number of plants planted. Tips Do not use fertilizers that lower the acidity of the soil, such as wood ash. Do not use long-acting granular fertilizers, as they can cause secondary growth of stems in August, which will freeze in winter. They are designed for the European climate with six warm months a year. If, nevertheless, secondary growth has begun, then spray the bush with potassium sulfate - 10 g per liter of water. The editors of the magazine "Feast of Flowers" recommends the use of more organic fertilizers than mineral ones. Prevention of diseases In late April - early May, shed or spray the "rose tree" with copper-containing fungicides (copper oxychloride "HOM", copper sulphate). It is recommended to repeat the treatment after 3-4 weeks. Preventive treatments are especially important for species: Canadian, Ledebour and evergreen species. Flowering of rhododendron All gardeners are waiting for the unique and powerful flowering of the bush every year. Despite their attractive appearance all season long, it is the luxurious inflorescences that create the maximum decorative effect and captivate millions of eyes. When does rhododendron bloom or flowering time? The timing of flowering depends on the climatic conditions of a particular area and year, the variety and condition of the plant. Usually the flowering period lasts from April to June. Early-flowering species (Dahurian, Canadian, Ledebour) bloom in mid - late April in early - mid-May cease to bloom. Then evergreen large-leaved species begin to bloom in early - mid-May, and soon deciduous species and varieties based on them join them. How long or how long does a rhododendron bloom? The flowering period for different species and varieties is a different number of days, on average 16-20 (30-45). The duration of flowering depends on many factors: the amount of light, temperature, species characteristics, the amount of nutrients, etc. Post-flowering care To make the "rose tree" bloom profusely every year, break out the inflorescences immediately after they have faded (there will be no seeds!). The inflorescence at the base breaks off effortlessly with your hands, but you need to be careful not to damage the young shoots. This procedure will help the bush to direct all its forces to the establishment of lateral buds and abundant flowering in the next season. It will also become more magnificent, because not one, but 2-3 young shoots will appear at the base of the inflorescence. Then water the plant abundantly and feed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. It is especially important to break out inflorescences in large-leaved species.

To take a break from the oppressive urban environment, go to the country to admire the rhododendron, an ornamental shrub of the heather family. "Rosewood" is a spring-flowering plant remarkable in every way: it has very original leathery leaves and magnificent large inflorescences. But in order for it to bloom intensively, it needs to be intensively looked after: planted in a suitable place, watered in a timely manner, regularly loosened and weeded, reasonably fed.

If you plan to grow rhododendrons in the Middle lane (Moscow region), in the Leningrad region, in the Urals or in Siberia, then you should pay attention exclusively to winter-hardy varieties that can withstand temperatures drop to -25 degrees or more in winter.

Such frost-resistant varieties of rhododendrons include the following: Roseum Elegance, Nova Zembla, Grandiflorum, Golden Lights, White Lights, Rosie Lights, Babushka, Impeditum Golden Lights, English Roseum, Karens, Mount St. Helens, Caractacus, Daursky and PZHM Elite.

In general, rhododendrons can be divided into 2 varieties:

Video: varieties and types of rhododendron

When and how to plant rhododendrons in open ground

Landing dates

You can plant rhododendrons both in spring and autumn. If you decide to plant in the spring, then it is advisable to have time before the plant blooms, in other words, depending on the region (in the Middle lane, the Moscow region a little earlier, in the Urals and Siberia - later), it may be April - May month. Autumn planting of rhododendron is best done in early autumn, it is recommended to be in time before the second half of October. Such periods are explained by the fact that wet and cool weather is ideal for the plant to take root in the garden.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

It can help you choose the best date for disembarkation Moon calendar.

So favorable days for planting rhododendron in 2019 according to the lunar calendar are:

in March - 12-17, 19, 20, 27-30;
in April - 6-8, 11-13, 15-17, 24-26, 29, 30;
in May - 6-8, 10-17, 21-23, 26-28, 31;
in June - 1, 2, 5, 6, 9-13, 16-20, 27-30;
in July - 8-12, 25-31;
in August - 2-6, 17, 18, 21-23, 26-28;
in September - 1-5, 7-10, 17-24;
in October - 4-7, 9-12, 19-21, 23-25, 27;
in November - 13-18.

Unfavorable days according to the lunar calendar for 2019 for planting rhododendron are the following dates:

in March - 6, 7, 21;
in April - 5, 19;
in May - 5, 19;
in June - 3, 4, 17;
in July - 2, 3, 17;
in August - 15, 16, 30, 31;
in September - 14, 15, 28, 29;
in October - 14, 28;
in November - 12, 13, 26, 27.

According to the lunar calendar from the magazine "1000 tips for summer residents."

Place in the garden for planting

Rhododendron, like all flowering shrubs, still loves the sun. Therefore, find a place for landing sunny or with light partial shade. It is good if from 10-11 in the morning until 4-5 days direct and burning sun rays do not fall on the plant. Moreover, this shrub does not tolerate drafts, but it definitely needs to provide an influx of fresh air. For example, it is good to plant a rhododendron near fruit trees (the same apple tree), which would slightly shade the shrub during the day, at a distance of about 1.5 meters from the crown.

Advice! Deciduous rhododendrons need more sun than evergreens.

Landing hole and soil

Despite the fact that the pot of rhododendron is usually small, landing pit you need a large enough one, it should be about 3-4 times larger than the root system of the seedling. Dimensions the following are required: depth from 50-90 centimeters, width - 60-80 centimeters (depending on the size of the seedling and soil. If the soil is too clayey, then the pit should be larger).

Important! If the soil in your area is clayey, then drainage material should be laid at the bottom by about 10-15 centimeters. As a drainage, you can use any inert substance, that is, gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand are suitable.

If you want to plant several rhododendrons side by side, then it is advisable to plant them at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other.

Rhododendrons love acidic soils. In ordinary (sandy or clay loamy) these plants grow very poorly, literally 1 season, and then they wither and disappear (as a rule, they simply do not survive the winter). Therefore, to fill the landing pit will require sour high-moor peat. It is sold ready-made in garden stores or you can dig it up in a forest swamp. You will also need coniferous litter(these are needles and twigs of coniferous trees crumbling to the ground, for example, there is pine litter), you can also pick it up in the forest, and you need to collect it not dry (it should be thrown away), namely loose and smelling of mushrooms. Mix these components in equal parts.

Another suitable for rhododendron potting mix recipe: 6 parts of acid high-moor peat, 2 parts of pine bark and 1 part of garden (garden) soil.

Also you can buy in the store special soil for azaleas(this is a type of rhododendron).

Video: personal experience of growing rhododendrons

Direct fit

Step-by-step instructions for planting rhododendrons in open ground:

Video: how to plant rhododendrons

Outdoor rhododendron care

In order for the rhododendron to grow beautifully and bloom profusely in your summer cottage, it needs proper and timely care.

Rhododendron, like all heathers, does not tolerate drying out of the soil. And the peat mixture in which this shrub grows dries up very quickly, especially in summer, when the weather is hot. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the plant regularly and on time. water.

At the end of summer (in August), experienced flower growers recommend stopping watering.

Advice! In the first 2 years, it is highly recommended to do surface spraying in dry weather, in other words, watering directly along the crown.

It is impossible to allow the growth of weeds in the near-stem circle of the shrub. To avoid this, it is necessary to mulch the hole at the planting stage and, if necessary, add additional mulch, as well as weed and loosen.

top dressing

In early spring rhododendron good feed any nitrogen-containing fertilizer, in which the minimum amount of potassium. For example, you can use ammonium nitrate and prepare a solution by taking 1 tbsp. a spoonful of fertilizer and dissolving it in 10 liters of water.

If your rhododendron bloomed profusely, then to replenish its strength, a mandatory summer top dressing.

As for such dressings, it is advisable to make 2-3 top dressings with acidic fertilizers during the summer. Store-bought fertilizers for azaleas are great for this.

Video: when and how to feed rhododendrons

The second dressing of rhododendrons in the summer should be done at the end of July. For this, potassium sulfate should be used. To prepare the solution, you will need 1 tbsp. a spoonful of fertilizer and 10 liters of water.

Video: second summer top dressing

Important! At the end of flowering in the first 2-3 years, it is desirable to quickly and accurately remove faded inflorescences, otherwise they form seed material that draws strength from rhododendrons.

After the rhododendron has faded, if it feels good and you take care of it properly, then it will definitely give young shoots. If they do not appear, then this is a clear signal that the care is incorrect or insufficient (for example, watering).

Video: rhododendron care

Note! You can read more about caring for rhododendrons in the fall and about their preparation for winter.

Video: preparing rhododendrons for winter

How to transplant a rhododendron to a new place

Sometimes it happens that the plant does not take root in one place, and it should be transplanted to a more suitable one. Rhododendrons are not afraid of transplantation, because. they have a fairly compact root system, but you should be guided by some rules for changing the place of residence of the shrub:

As for the timing, it is worth replanting the rhododendron, as well as planting it for the first time, either in early spring or in the first months of autumn.
It is optimal to transship shrubs in slightly cool and cloudy weather, but not in dry and sunny weather.
When you dig up a plant, despite the fact that the root system is small, in no case should it be damaged.
It is necessary to dig up a plant together with an earthen clod, which should not crumble when transferred to another place, so the movement must be carried out using a wheelbarrow, placing an earthen clod on it.
In the first year after transplantation, it is advisable to cover the shrub for the winter with one of the popular covering materials (for example, spunbond), and this is done in order to protect the plant from burns.

If you liked the pleasant shapes and luxurious flowers of the "alpine rose" (another name for the rhododendron), do not drive away the idea of \u200b\u200bsettling this beautiful shrub in your summer cottage. Proper and energetic planting and care efforts will more than pay off with a really unforgettable spectacle.

Video: planting and caring for rhododendron

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Growing conditions and care for rhododendrons

Rhododendron: planting, growing and caring ... Rhododendrons, like other cultivated plants, require certain care, including transplanting, watering and spraying, weed, disease and pest control, top dressing, bush formation, etc.
Japanese azalea as a garden plant
Ornamental shrubs and trees

When choosing a rhododendron variety for our site, we must know, first of all, its pedigree. This is necessary in order to understand what to expect from a given species or variety. After all, we want our rhododendron to be a spectacular and beautifully flowering bush every year, and not an unfortunate plant that regularly falls under frost.

Numerous types of rhododendrons differ in their lighting requirements. In general, plants are photophilous, but more often they prefer a slight penumbra. They need moist, well-drained, humus-rich, leafy, acidic soil, so in neutral to alkaline regions, grow rhododendrons in containers or in high beds sprinkled with acid heather. Alpine species of rhododendrons are grown in cool climates in sunny areas; in warm climates, it is preferable to place in partial shade.

Watering is regular, in a dry, hot period - plentiful. Apply acid fertilizer twice a year. Young plants are fed with low concentrations of complex mineral fertilizer. Lime and chlorine should be avoided (see below for top dressing). The soil around the trunk is mulched. Faded inflorescences break off. In the spring, dry branches are removed, shoots are shortened. Evergreen rhododendrons are covered with spruce branches, undersized - with a completely dry oak leaf. In deciduous rhododendrons, branches are bent to the ground so that in winter they are under the snow. In late March - early April, shelters are removed.

With proper care, rhododendrons bloom profusely and bear fruit every year. During flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients, so the one who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year they bloom very profusely, the next - less. To eliminate such periodicity, faded inflorescences are broken off immediately after flowering (if seeds are not needed). This must be done very carefully so as not to break the young fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year.

The faded inflorescence is slightly bent, it easily breaks at the base. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that without a flower bud.
Planting or transplanting rhododendrons

It is better to plant a rhododendron bush in the spring, either before the start of growth, or at the very beginning of the spring awakening of the plant. The most suitable time for their transplantation in our conditions is April - the first half of May. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, but no later than the beginning of September (preferably with a closed root system). It is unacceptable to plant / transplant rhododendron during the flowering period or in late autumn. In rhododendrons, unlike other ornamental trees and shrubs, the root system is practically not damaged during transplantation, the connection between the plant roots and the substrate is not lost.

If one or more specimens are planted, then for each plant or each small group, a landing pit of the required size is prepared, that is, approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. In group plantings, the distance between plants (in flowering form) should be such that their crowns barely touch. If the root balls of the rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried up, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.

The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from winds and direct sunlight. They are prepared in advance, in the fall, and planted in the spring. When planting rhododendrons near large trees, the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material.

It is necessary to prepare the soil in an appropriate way. Mixing of all components can be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and other organic materials are poured into the dug hole. It is not necessary to have all of the above components; you can get by with several or even one material, such as peat. 1/2 of the pit is filled with organic materials, and the rest of the volume is filled with mineral soil dug during the preparation of the pit. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m3 of substrate.

We can advise the following substrate options for rhododendrons: leafy soil, high-moor peat, litter of coniferous trees in proportion (3:2:1); heather, leaf earth, coarse sand (3:1:1); sod land, sphagnum peat, coarse sand (1:4:1). Various other combinations of the components of the acidic fertile substrate necessary for the rhododendron are also used. A few large aged sawdust can be poured into the substrate; it would be nice to mix pieces of broken red brick into it to retain moisture. Drainage can only be omitted on unflooded and well-drained sandy soils. If necessary, drainage is poured into the bottom of the pit (pebbles, crushed granite, broken red brick, fragments of slate, etc.) with a layer of about 10 cm. The following materials are not suitable as drainage for rhododendrons (due to their calcium content): crushed limestone , pieces of concrete, broken white brick.

In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery; the root neck of the plant cannot be deepened, this weakens it. Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. A plant is planted in a prepared pit of the appropriate size, the space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and a thin layer (no more than 5 cm) of the substrate is covered with the root ball on top.

After transplanting, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, watering is not required. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, after transplanting, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required.

To prevent water from spreading when watering, a small roller of mulch is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials can be used as mulch, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.

With solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted one at a time on the lawn, so that the wind does not shake the plants that have not yet taken root, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, tilted against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it. When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.
Do I need pruning rhododendrons

Some experts believe that rhododendrons should not be fed at all in the first year. Subsequently, top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. Rhododendrons are slow growing plants with shallow, compact root systems, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding them.

Rhododendrons are fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that top dressing be liquid, specially designed for these plants.

They respond well to the common granular fertilizer "Kemira-universal". It is used in dry form, evenly scattered around the plants at the rate of 1 matchbox per square meter. meter. This dosage is necessary for shrubs up to 40 cm high. If the rhododendrons are larger, the amount of fertilizer is doubled.

At the end of June, rhododendrons are fed for the last time with potassium sulfate at the rate of 5 g (1 teaspoon) per 1 sq. meter, dissolved in 10 liters of water for young rhododendrons and 10 g for adults. Do not fertilize in July and August!

It is better not to use imported long-acting granular fertilizers. They are designed, as a rule, for the fact that there are six warm months in a year. And with our short summer, top dressing with such fertilizers can lead to secondary growth in August and, accordingly, freezing of unripened shoots. Do not use ash as a fertilizer, because. it reduces the acidity of the soil, and this causes chlorosis - yellowing of the leaf plate between the veins.
Reproduction of rhododendrons

Rhododendrons are propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering. Sow seeds in spring. The first picking is carried out in June. February-March of the following year make a second pick. In the third year after sowing, seedlings are planted in the ground for growing. They bloom for 4-5 years. For cuttings, semi-lignified cuttings are used, which are cut in the second half of June. Cuttings should be treated with a growth stimulator. After two years, the plants are planted in open ground.

Rhododendron plants can be damaged by rust, leaf spot, root rot. Of the pests, the spider mite may disturb ... (to be continued)

LANDING AND CARE

Landing. Everyone who is engaged or wants to grow rhododendrons, the question arises, when is the best time to transplant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most suitable time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic is spring (April - the first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when young shoots have finished growing and strengthened. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding periods of flowering and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such a wide range of rhododendron transplant times is due to the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike other ornamental trees and shrubs, the root system is practically not damaged during transplantation, the connection between the plant roots and the substrate is not lost.

Thus, if the landing site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons in the new place grow just as well as in the old one. In long-term plantings, only healthy plants with a well-developed compact root system should be planted. In group plantings, the distance between plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.

Already before acquiring rhododendrons, you need to know what place in the garden will be reserved for their planting, and it is best to be guided by the landscaping project developed by specialists. The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing winds and from the direct burning rays of the sun, the soil should be prepared accordingly.

Before planting, rhododendrons should be watered abundantly. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplanting better. If the root balls of the rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried up, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.

Before planting rhododendrons, the soil should be carefully prepared. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then for each plant or each small group, a landing pit of the required size is prepared, that is, approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near large trees, the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and other organic materials are poured into the dug hole. It is not necessary to have all of the above components; you can get by with several or even one material, such as peat. 1/2 of the pit is filled with organic materials, and the rest of the volume is filled with mineral soil dug during the preparation of the pit. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m3 of substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Mixing can also be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. The landing site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.

Rice. 15. Planting rhododendrons: 1 - rhododendron planted too small; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - correctly planted rhododendron.

Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared pit, they dig a cell corresponding to the size of the root ball of the rhododendron, and plant the plant in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the top of the root ball is covered with a thin layer (no more than 5 cm) of the substrate. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplanting, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, watering is not required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, after transplanting, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water from spreading when watering, a small mulch roller is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials can be used as mulch, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.

If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have a lot of flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that plants that have not yet fully rooted do not spend much-needed nutrients and moisture on flowering. A few flower buds can be left, so that when flowering, you can appreciate the beauty of the planted plant.

With solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted one at a time on the lawn, so that the wind does not shake the plants that have not yet taken root, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, tilted against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.

Rice. 16. After planting, rhododendrons are strengthened to resist the wind.

Care. Rhododendrons, like other cultivated plants, require some care, including watering and spraying, weed, disease and pest control, top dressing, bush formation, etc.

If the rhododendrons are planted in the right place, in well-prepared soil, and if mulching is done after planting, then minimal care is required. Loosening the soil directly around the plants is unacceptable, since during these works it is easy to damage the surface root system. If individual weeds appear, they should be pulled out and left there under the bush. It is very important that in the first year after transplantation, rhododendrons are well supplied with water. On hot summer days, when dry weather lasts for a long time, the leaves of rhododendrons become dull, lethargic, lose turgor and droop. This is a signal indicating that the root ball has dried up and the plants need to be watered and sprayed with water immediately. If this is not done, the drying process of the plants continues, the leaves turn yellow, then turn brown along the edges and along the midrib, dry out and die. It is often mistakenly believed that brown spots indicate some kind of fungal disease, but the only reason for their appearance is water deficiency. It is very important to prevent such a situation, since with a long-term water deficit, the annual growth of new shoots is negligible, flower buds are not laid, there is a mass fall of older leaves, the plant loses a lot in decorativeness.

Rhododendrons are especially sensitive to water deficiency in the first year after transplantation. This is explained by the fact that the root ball is still small, the capillary system that connects the root ball with the deeper layers of the soil has not yet fully formed. The appearance of plants accurately tells what the water regime of the soil is at present. At the first sign of water deficiency, you should immediately start watering. Watering is continued until the soil gets wet to the depth of the root ball, i.e., 20-30 cm, then watering is stopped and the plants are given the opportunity to restore water balance.

The normal growth and development of rhododendrons can be hindered by excess moisture in the soil. This usually happens when there is insufficient drainage of heavy soils. With an excess of water in the soil, the roots of plants feel an acute lack of oxygen, the leaves begin to turn yellow, wither, and the older ones fall off. External signs are the same as during a drought. Rhododendrons are very sensitive to high soil moisture, they do not tolerate stagnant water. Therefore, in the places where rhododendrons are planted, there should be well-functioning drainage, which can eliminate excess water in a few hours. If the water stagnates for several days, then this can lead to the mass death of rhododendrons. Often, newly planted rhododendrons are watered too abundantly. It should be remembered that water in plants that have not yet taken root does not enter as quickly as in those that have been growing in one place for a long time. If the soil is damp and the leaves and young shoots wither, then there is too much water in the soil, the roots of the plants do not have enough air, and watering should be stopped. But if hot, dry weather persists, then instead of watering, you need to spray the leaves.

The frequency of watering depends not only on meteorological conditions, but also on where the rhododendrons are planted, how carefully the soil is prepared. The more correct the choice of location, the better prepared the substrate, the less you need to water the rhododendrons. It goes without saying that soft, preferably acidified water should be used for irrigation. How to carry out acidification of water, it was said above.

Rhododendrons require abundant watering not only in summer, during active growth and development. At the end of the growing season, before the onset of frost, rhododendrons, and especially evergreens, should be well watered so that they meet the winter at maximum saturation with moisture. This will help the plants fight against winter drought and overwinter better.

When growing rhododendrons, one should not forget about such an important agricultural technique as soil mulching. We have already talked about the need for mulching when transplanting rhododendrons. However, the soil should also be mulched where rhododendrons have been growing for several years. A layer of mulch covering the root system of plants helps them to overwinter better. In plantings of rhododendrons, no organic plant remains should be removed - fallen leaves, small branches, bark, etc. Over time, a layer of loose, acidic, nutrient-rich substrate is formed here, intensively used by plants, since their surface root system gradually, from per year penetrates into the upper layer of the substrate. This natural layer, like mulch, protects the root system of rhododendrons from frost, especially in snowless winters.

A layer of mulch delays the evaporation of water from the soil, protects the root system from freezing, prevents the growth of weeds, and increases the humus content in the surface layer of the soil. As a material for mulching, you can use bedding sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, pine needles, forest floor, heather, as well as leaves of oak, ash, beech, birch, linden, alder. It is undesirable to use maple and horse chestnut leaves, as they quickly decompose and give an alkaline reaction.

How thick should the mulch layer be? It depends on the height of the plants. So, German scientists found that for rhododendrons up to 50 cm high, a 4-6 cm mulch layer is sufficient, for plants 50-80 cm high, the mulch layer should be 6-10 cm, and for plants more than 80 cm high, the mulch layer should be 10 -15 cm. If the height of the plant is more than 200 cm, then the mulch layer can reach 30 cm. In spring, the mulch layer around the plants is reduced or completely removed.

Unlike other ornamental shrubs, rhododendrons have a regular bush shape, so pruning should be minimal. Even after transplantation, rhododendrons do not require pruning, as they are transplanted with a large root ball and the activity of the roots practically does not stop.

Usually, rhododendrons themselves, without human intervention, form a beautifully shaped bush, but sometimes you have to intervene in this process: when updating old bushes, if necessary, reduce the height of large bushes, when leaves and shoots freeze. In young seedlings, the central vegetative buds are plucked out to form a sprawling bush.

How to prune large old rhododendron bushes? Pruning is necessary when the plants are so tall and spreading that they close the windows, block the paths in the garden, etc. The bushes are pruned in the place where the thickness of the shoots reaches 2-4 cm. Immediately after cutting the branches, the wounds should be covered with garden pitch or oil paint so that the wounded places do not dry out and become infected. After 3-4 weeks, dormant buds that are on the shoots awaken, the renewal of the old bush begins. A year later, the plant restores decorativeness.

If it is necessary to update very old plants, they are pruned at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground. Plants that have been badly damaged during severe frosts or badly broken are also cut at the same height. In the first year, one half of the bush is cut, and the next year the second. In this case, the update process proceeds better.

The bushes should be cut very early in the spring (in the climatic conditions of our republic at the end of March or the first half of April). Branches should be cut near dormant buds (Fig. 17). Cut bushes during the growing season should be regularly fed and watered abundantly.

Rhododendrons propagated from seeds should not be cut before the first flowering. Experience of the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University P. Stuchki showed that pruning plants that never bloomed delays their flowering by 2-3 years.

Rice. 17. Formation of a rhododendron bush: 1 - uncircumcised bush; 2 - bush after pruning; 3 - correct pruning of the shoot; 4 renewing pruning of rhododendron.

With proper care, rhododendrons bloom profusely and bear fruit every year. During flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate such periodicity, if seeds are not needed, faded inflorescences are broken out immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year. To break out a faded inflorescence, it is slightly bent down, holding it with the thumb and forefinger. At the same time, the fragile axis of the inflorescence breaks easily at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than with a knife or scissors. This work should be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to break off the young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that without a flower bud.

Top dressing. In order for rhododendrons to bloom profusely and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not damaged by pests, they must be properly fertilized. Top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. For a long time, even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require top dressing, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most daring and determined gardeners at best used well-decomposed manure as fertilizer. The prejudice against mineral fertilizers was especially strong, since it was believed that rhododendrons did not tolerate them. With the expansion of knowledge on the mineral nutrition of plants in nurseries, they began to carefully apply mineral fertilizers to feed rhododendrons. Nowadays, no one considers it possible to obtain high-quality planting material for rhododendrons without the use of mineral fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantations in a permanent place also need to be fed. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, juicy green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habitus. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, try to speed up the flowering of hybrids in order to see the results of their work faster.

Rhododendrons are slow growing plants with shallow, compact root systems, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.

As the experience of the specialists of the Botanical Garden of the Leningrad State University. P. Stuchka and foreign experts, rhododendrons need to be fertilized already in the first year after transplantation, immediately after the rooting of the transplanted plants. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that the top dressing be liquid.

What external signs of rhododendrons indicate a lack of nutrients? The most characteristic sign is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their luster decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very little annual growth, flower buds are not laid, in August and early September there is an increased fall of old leaves.

The most accessible and common of organic fertilizers are old semi-rotted manure, horn shavings and blood meal, horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase. As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, which are characterized by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and have a long and mild effect, since their decomposition process takes longer than the decomposition of manure.

If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be preferred. Like mineral fertilizers, it is desirable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for top dressing. To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water to a light brown color. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the reaction of the soil, since this top dressing can change the pH of the substrate. Before top dressing, rhododendrons should be well watered so that the root ball gets wet to the full depth.

If there is semi-decomposed manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the soil surface around each plant with a layer about 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate the soil, and the plants receive the necessary top dressing.

If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then inorganic fertilizers should be oriented.

Mineral fertilizers are essentially concentrates of nutrients, so with a small amount of them, a lot of the nutrients needed by plants are introduced into the soil. Since rhododendrons grow well on acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, magnesium sulphate, potassium sulphate, calcium sulphate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for top dressing, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.

The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for feeding rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (potassium fertilizer solution should be even weaker). For fertilizing rhododendrons, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used. You need to start feeding plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient humidity, soil and air can cause secondary growth of shoots. Young shoots that started growing late, have time to complete growth before the end of the growing season and in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. In the climatic conditions of our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, the secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many species of rhododendrons. You can stop it by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulphate K2SO4 or a 1% solution of monobasic potassium phosphate KH2PO4.

Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. For its preparation, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH2PO4 are taken per 10 liters of water. It turns out a solution that contains the main macronutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required limits (2-7).

Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very laborious work, therefore, in the mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition should be taken: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. This time, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.

You can carry out top dressing in a slightly different way: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m2 of area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. In late May - early June, after the flowering of rhododendrons, 80 g of a mixture is applied per 1 m2 of area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Top dressing of open ground rhododendrons with mineral fertilizer solutions is carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July. For top dressing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for top dressing of covered ground rhododendrons. For 10 liters of water, 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate are taken. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants 1-2 more times with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution.

Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so their fertilizer is discussed in the section that talks about the propagation of rhododendrons by seeds.

2. You can acidify the soil of rhododendrons when watering with any acid, for example, citric acid. Teaspoon on a bucket of water. The soil is acidified by needles.
Well acidifies the soil coffee grounds. Of course, you can’t collect a lot of it at home, but the brave can agree in cafes and restaurants and take their coffee from them.
Sometimes it is advised to water the plants with water with the addition of sulfuric acid to it (from 5 drops per 10 liters for hydrangeas and up to 50 drops per 10 liters for rhododendrons).

Watering and spraying rhododendrons should be done with soft acidified water. Water can be acidified with acetic, oxalic, citric acid 3–4 g per 10 liters. You can put 50 g of high-moor peat in a bag for a day into a barrel of water (100 l), and water the plants with this water.

Rhododendrons should be fed in early spring, then - during the flowering period and a third time - after flowering during the active growth of shoots, but not later than July. It is advisable to make at least one top dressing with organic fertilizer: dilute the old semi-rotted - only cow - manure (it acidifies the soil) with water in a ratio of 1:15–20 and leave for several days.

For mineral dressings, those fertilizers are used that acidify the soil. In the spring for 1 square. m, or for one plant about 1 m high, 40 g of ammonium sulphate and 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulphate are needed, with the next top dressing, the doses are reduced by 2 times.