How and what is the best way to treat fruit trees from diseases and pests in the spring. How to process a garden in early spring - we will tell and show The best way to process fruit trees in early spring

Almost all gardeners know that spraying trees in the spring is a useful thing. But what exactly does garden processing give? What pests and diseases can be controlled by spraying? How and when to spray trees in April and May? How to make pest control safe for beneficial insects? In detail - about the spring protection of the garden.

Pest control: where they hibernate and what they eat

There are a great many insect pests - only the apple tree and blackcurrant have more than 200 of them. But you need to fight only those that really cause significant damage. According to the method of feeding and the device of the oral apparatus, pests are divided into two main groups: leaf-sucking and leaf-eating.

TO leaf-sucking include aphids, suckers, bedbugs, thrips, scale insects, whiteflies, and mites that are not insects. These pests pierce the leaf plate or bark and suck out the juice through the puncture. Therefore, they cannot be killed except by contact, the drug must destroy the integuments of the body, as a result of which the pests die, or must cause paralysis of the respiratory systems.

But in the arsenal of modern means of protection, new generation preparations have appeared that penetrate into the cell sap of the plant and become harmful to leaf-sucking pests, but do not accumulate in the plant itself, because after 2-3 weeks they completely decompose into harmless elements.

One of these drugs is the chemical poison "Phosbecid". Plants treated with it should not be eaten for 20 days. But there are also biopreparations "Iskra-bio" ("Agravertin") and "Fitoverm", after processing with which fruits and greens can be eaten after 48 hours.

TO leaf-eating insects include beetles and their larvae, butterfly caterpillars. In addition to insects, there are also mollusks: slugs, snails, crustaceans. All of them feed directly on the leaves, so they are easily poisoned through gastric tract, - it is enough just to moisten the aerial part of the host plant with a poisonous preparation for them.

As a rule, everything sucking insects hibernate on the branches of shrubs and trees located near the kidneys. And these insects are most vulnerable before the start of sap flow, when the average daily temperature is close to zero, since at this moment their chitinous covers begin to break down to allow the larvae to get out of them. There is one more moment when pests are vulnerable - late autumn, because at this time their chitinous covers have not yet strengthened.

The rest winter partly in the forks of branches or in the crevices of the bark, but mostly - under a layer of foliage or in top layer soil right under the plantings, and come to the surface only when a green cone of leaves appears, when the scales of the kidneys move apart, that is, after the start of sap flow. Most of these insects first damage these opening young leaves, and then turn into buds at the moment of their advancement (isolation), therefore, they must be dealt with precisely at these moments.

But in no case should the garden be treated with chemicals at the time of flowering, since beneficial insects come out of the ground at this time. And their destruction can lead to ecological imbalance on the site, because their number is restored much more slowly than the number of insect pests.

There is also a whole group of pests, hibernating inside plants: gall midges, vitreous, bud currant, raspberry fly larvae. They are especially difficult to deal with, since they are practically impossible to reach with the help of chemical means. It remains only to manually collect, cut out the stems of currants and raspberries with gall thickenings, drying stems of blackcurrant and drooping, after which all this must be immediately burned before the pests come out and spread throughout the garden.

First pest control

This is spraying trees and bushes in early spring before the start of sap flow, at the end of March - at the very beginning of April. Larvae and eggs of insects die from contact with the drug. Therefore, it is necessary to very carefully spray the entire tree (the entire bush) along all the branches and the near-trunk circle in order to moisten the pests. When processing the garden, at least 10 liters of solution are consumed for an adult tree, for a young one - 5-6 liters, for each bush - at least 1.5-2 liters.

It is best to use a concentrated solution of any mineral fertilizer for spraying, from the following (per 10 liters of water):

500-600 g of nitroammophoska,
or 600-700 g of azophoska,
or 400 g of potassium chloride,
or 500 g of potassium carbonate,
or 600-700 g of urea
or just 1 kg of table salt.

It is imperative to spray well the ends of the branches on which aphid eggs are laid, the skeletal branches, in the forks of which some of the pests hibernate, and the soil in the trunk circles. With such spraying, there is a violation of salt metabolism in the cells of pests, which causes their death.

If such treatment is not done in the spring, then at the very beginning of the sap flow, pest insects will be born from eggs and larvae, but at this time our helpers - beneficial insects that feed on pests - are still sleeping and will come to the surface only during flowering, so protect garden from pests except us no one.

Second garden treatment

If you did not treat the garden in early spring and did not destroy the pest masonry, then a second treatment will be required. It is often recommended to use one of the following drugs: Inta-vir, Decis, Karate, Fury, karbofos or its analogue Fufanon.

The first four drugs are highly toxic, therefore very effective, but at the same time they kill beneficial insects, bees and earthworms, since they decompose for about three weeks and destroy beneficial insects emerging from their shelters. And absolutely they cannot be used from the moment of flowering, not only the garden, but also the coltsfoot, since at this time bumblebees appear and worms crawl out.

Karbofos and "Fufanon" are preferable to these drugs, primarily because they quickly, within 5-7 days, decompose even before the appearance of beneficial insects, but are less effective, so they should not be used with a large number of pests.

All of these drugs destroy pests, getting into their intestines along with food and causing poisoning. Some of the pests will begin to feed at the moment of bud opening (green cone), while the other - at the moment of budding (separation and extension of buds). It is at these moments that you need to have time to process the garden.

At this time, there are already early green crops. When processing the garden, they must be covered with a film.

Instead of the chemicals described above, you can use the same mineral fertilizers, but only their concentration should be 7-10 times lower, otherwise you can cause a severe burn of the opening buds and buds. We can recommend spraying on a green cone with a 0.7% solution of urea - this is 70 g (3 tablespoons) of urea per 10 liters of water.

Spraying with infusions and decoctions of tobacco dust, citrus peels, onion peel or dry tansy, marigold seeds, garlic, coniferous needles is effective.

Tobacco dust. To prepare a solution, 400 g of tobacco dust are infused in 10 liters of water for a day, then boiled for half an hour, then cooled and filtered. For spraying, for every 10 liters of water, you need to take 100 g of the solution, adding 40 g of soap to it for better adhesion.
Onion peel. Pour half a bucket of onion peel with a bucket of hot water, cover, leave for two days, strain and spray.
Dry tansy. 1 kg collected during flowering and dried tansy, pour 10 liters of water and boil over low heat for 15 minutes, cool, strain. For spraying, for every 10 liters of water, take 100 g of solution, add 40 g of soap and spray.
Infusion of garlic. Grind 100 g of garlic, pour 10 liters of water for a day, strain and spray.
Infusion of coniferous needles. 2.5 kg of needles of any coniferous species pour 10 liters of water, stirring from time to time, leave for a week, strain, add another 20 liters of water and spray.
Infusion of citrus peels. Soak 1 kg of citrus peels, pass through a meat grinder, pour 3 liters of water, close tightly and leave for 5 days in the dark, strain, squeeze, bottle, cork. Use as needed, 100 g of solution per 10 liters of water.

Aim to get on the underside of the opened leaves, as pests tend to be there.

It is useful to put corrugated cardboard trapping belts on apple and pear trees, into which caterpillars crawl, moving up the trunk. The top edge of the cardboard must be bent like a roof, the caterpillars do not crawl over such an edge. Trapping belts are changed a couple of times a season and burned along with the pests lurking there.

The hunting belt can be made of polyethylene film. The lower edge is tied around the trunk like a skirt, and the upper edge is folded over like an umbrella. Such a belt can not be removed all summer. Pests will not be able to crawl over the bent top edge.

As soon as the gentle sun warms, garden plants they immediately react - the buds swell, the twigs straighten, the tender tufts of green leaves try to throw off their tight winter hats as soon as possible. But gentle rays awaken not only fruit plants. Thousands of pests that hid in the cold under the bark of trees, in leaf litter, in old hollows, become active with the first rays of the sun, in a hurry to urgently reproduce their offspring.

Early spring is the best time to treat the garden from pests, it is necessary to protect the trees as early as possible. Spring processing will significantly reduce the population of harmful insects that can destroy the entire crop. This article is an overview of effective measures to protect fruit trees and shrubs from pests.

Garden pests and diseases: control measures

In early spring, hardworking summer residents are already carrying out the first treatment of the garden from harmful insects. Sawflies, scoops, psyllids, moths, earwigs and sawflies are already planning their dirty work, so you should not hesitate.

But before you start spraying the trees, you need to thoroughly clean the garden from rotting heaps of last year's tops, cut branches and leaves gathered in a pile. It is in such shelters that thousands of harmful insects gather for wintering. Look around - you see vegetable debris, urgently start cleaning.

After cleaning the garden from last year's plant debris, you can proceed to processing. How to process an orchard in spring - the answers are below.

Apple tree

A popular garden culture - present in every garden, not only you and I love sweet bulk apples, but also malicious insects. Without protective treatment of the garden, it is difficult to protect the crop from voracious pests and infectious diseases.

The apple orchard is threatened not only by pests, but also by pathogenic infections, against which it is also recommended to fight in early spring.

Attention! Processing apple orchard can be carried out during the period when the outdoor temperature reaches +4-5 C during the day and about 0 - at night. The weather on the day of processing should be without wind, it makes no sense to process the garden in bad weather, because all the preparations will simply be washed away from the crown of the tree by rain.

There are three stages of processing an apple orchard in spring:

For dormant buds - early spring processing of tree crowns, which can be combined with whitewashing boles, if this operation was not performed in the fall. At this stage, the trees, after the treatment, are freed from the maximum number of pests. Spraying is carried out along the crown, capturing the stem of the tree and the soil in the near-trunk circle. Active agents: Bordeaux liquid, Prophylactin, copper (iron) vitriol + urea.
Along the green cone - the buds have already burst on the trees, but the green leaves are still hidden in brown scales. Prevention of diseases at this stage of tree development is the main, basic of all treatments carried out in the spring. Active agents: Hom, Polyhom, Abiga-Peak, Kinmiks, Tanrek, Bordeaux mixture is used only if the previous treatment was skipped. At this stage, trapping belts can be installed on the trees.
On closed buds - pink petals are closed, but already colored. During this period, such a malicious pest as the apple codling moth is activated. Active substances: Skor, Rayok, Decis, Karate, Profi, Aktara.

The fourth treatment against pests is carried out when, after flowering, an ovary of fruits is formed about 0.5-0.7 cm in size. This protective treatment may coincide with the end of spring or the beginning of summer, because in different climatic zones the appearance of the ovary is regulated by different terms. Active substances: Aliot, Sharpei, Kinmiks, Fitolavin.

Pear

It is necessary to repeatedly treat for pests and diseases, but the first treatment is carried out at the stage of dormant buds. An excellent result is noted when using a solution of Bordeaux liquid. The second treatment is carried out on the blossoming foliage, using insecticides.

Periodic inspections of the pear orchard will help determine the disease fruit plants. To rid trees of pests and diseases, it is carried out using the most active components.

Common pear diseases:

Cherry

The cherry orchard is prone to attack by pests and suffers from numerous fungal infections: anthracnose; clasterosporiosis; coccomycosis; moniliosis and others.

The first processing of cherries is carried out after cleaning the garden and filing frostbitten branches. This event is recommended to be carried out as early as possible before the start of sap flow, using a solution of urea.

As additional substances, you can use:

Bordeaux liquid - 3% aqueous solution.
Copper sulfate - 100 g of the substance per 10 liters of water.
Iron vitriol - 300 g per 10 liters of water.

To get rid of cherries from fungal infections, fungicides are used, the drug Chorus is most effective during the first treatment.

When carrying out further treatments for infectious diseases, drugs will help: Skor, Topsin-M, Topaz.

Currant

Treatment for fungal diseases in the spring and is the best prevention of the spread of pathogenic infections. In early spring, it is useful to inspect the plantings, free the area from plant debris.

The first treatment of currants is carried out in early spring, when the buds are not yet swollen. The choice of means depends on the infestation of plants with pests in the past season. If there are no disproportionately swollen buds or deformed branches on the bushes, then the bush can simply be poured hot water(water with dissolved potassium permanganate), with a strong infection of the berry with pests, it is worth using chemicals.

The operation is carried out at a stable temperature of +5C.

Types of processing:

Watering branches of berry bushes with boiling water (liquid temperature in the range of 80-85 degrees).
Spraying currant bushes with copper sulphate, fungicides for fungal infections, insecticides for fungus, biological products to speed up the growing season.
Destruction of kidneys damaged by a kidney mite, manually.

Foreword

In order to enjoy juicy healthy apples or other fruits in summer or autumn, it is necessary to start processing from spring garden trees and shrubs, do sanitary pruning.

Pre-spring work in the garden

Now is the time to shake off the snow from the trees. It is wet, heavy and may well break branches. Nature wakes up after winter. Therefore, in early spring it is necessary to carry out a certain set of activities on the site.

Carefully inspect the branches of fruit trees for pests that have overwintered on them. Now is the time to think about pruning broken and dry branches, so take it with you. You can also form a crown of trees.

But the main work is still spraying trees. As soon as average temperature air reaches + 5 ° C, and the buds have not yet had time to bloom, it is necessary to fight diseases and feed the trees.

Video: Cleaning fruit trees from snow

Protecting trees from spring burns and pest control

In early spring, the weather is quite unstable. It can be high during the daytime and drop sharply at night. Under these conditions, the bark on the trees warms up unevenly. Suppose, on a warm March day, the temperature of the trunk in the sun will be 12 degrees more than on the shaded side. Lime whitewashing of the trunk helps to get rid of such a difference.

In this case, the readings will differ only within 3 or 5 degrees. Overheating of the bark followed by freezing can cause early spring burns. And they will lead to the death of the tree, especially if it is a young seedling. It is necessary to restore the whitewash if it was broken during the winter period.

When pruning garden trees in early spring, you need to get rid of damaged branches. They should not be left under a tree, because they are probably infected with: cytosporosis, scale insects, bark beetle larvae, black cancer or other pests and diseases.

Simultaneously with this work, it is required to treat existing wounds on trunks and branches. Damage is cleaned, leveled with a knife until living tissue appears, then disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulphate, in a ratio of 10 g per 1 liter of water, and carefully cover this area with garden pitch.
How to spray trees in early spring

The modern industry offers gardeners many different products for spraying trees at the very beginning of spring. For these purposes, apply:

blue vitriol;
mineral oil emulsion;
Bordeaux liquid;
emulsion "Preparation-30";
nitrofen and others.

The cheapest drug is copper sulfate. But do not look at its low cost, it is quite effective, so most gardeners prefer it. It is used for scab, fruit rot, leaf curl, black cancer, brown leaf spot and other diseases.

Mineral oil emulsions are liquid mixtures of mineral oil with water and an emulsifier. The composition of the emulsifier usually contains:

soap;
glue or kaolin;
iron or copper sulfate.

Emulsions fight pests such as aphids, scale insects, help destroy the eggs of the codling moth, suckers and other insects. They should be applied in early spring, until the buds open. In summer, at temperatures over 35℃, the emulsion can cause severe burns on the tree.

Bordeaux liquid is an opaque sky-blue solution. Gardeners have been using this liquid for more than a hundred years in the fight against garden pests. It is recommended to use it until the buds open. The mixture destroys the scab and fungal diseases trees or shrubs. It is also used as disinfectant for wounds of fruit trees. It is not recommended to store it, it must be used immediately after preparation.

The emulsion "Preparat-30" is an oil-oil emulsion of white or light gray color. It is packaged in 2-liter jars and has a shelf life of 2 years. In the spring, all fruit and berry crops can be treated with an emulsion from wintering herds of scale insects, spider mites, leafworms, suckers, moths and other pests. And in the summer, spray trees and ornamental shrubs from tramps of the first and second generation of scale insects

Nitrofen is a drug against wintering stages of pests and diseases. This pasta Brown packaged in tin or glass jars or polymer bottles. The shelf life of nitrofen is 2 years. It behaves well as a disinfectant for wounds on fruit trees.

Video: Spraying trees and shrubs in early spring

Treatment of trees with copper sulphate

Before spraying, it is first necessary to clean the trunk of lichens with a brush. When processing trees, you can use a hand pump; they are sold in special stores for the garden. But it is desirable to have an automated sprayer. It is much more convenient and easier to work with. For those gardeners who already have mature trees, you need to have one that can be lengthened different ways. Most likely, you will have to tie it to a stick so that you can even reach the very top branches or use special telescopic rods.

It is worth worrying about your own safety. Robe, gloves, headwear and goggles. These items will protect you from getting the solution on bare areas of your body. A respirator will not allow vapors of the solution to enter the upper respiratory tract.

Before processing begins, the solution must be stirred. This is done as follows: 100 g of copper sulfate is diluted in a bucket of water. IN cold water vitriol dissolves worse. Therefore, you can breed it at home in hot water, for example, in three-liter jar, and then pour the contents into a bucket.

The solution must be poured into the sprayer through a funnel and several layers of gauze. Content filtering is a must. This is done so that the sprayer nozzle and hose cannot become clogged with undissolved particles. Now you should pump air into the balloon, hang it on your shoulder and go.

This article describes the process of treating trees with copper sulphate. But you can use any means that you like best or have already bought. Each package contains detailed instructions how to use it.

How to properly spray trees

Wood processing must be carried out carefully from all sides. The jet must be directed from the edge to its central part. It is best to do this alternately with each large branch. Only in this case it is possible to achieve the maximum effect.

Don't forget to spray the soil around the tree. If last year's leaves are still on it, they will rot much faster. Also, with the help of the solution, spores of harmful fungi or the pests themselves will be destroyed. The remaining solution can be used on nearby shrubs, vines or other plants.

After you process the trees, you must carefully rinse the machine with water. To do this, fill the sprayer with clean water and drive it away. In this case, the nozzles and hoses will not be clogged with the remaining dried particles of the solution. Change your clothes and be sure to wash your hands and face with soap.

Video: Spraying trees in spring

What is needed for spraying trees and shrubs

Also, in early spring, trees can be treated with combined means. They will help to cope with several types of pests at once, which will give you the opportunity to avoid several cycles of spraying trees and at the same time fertilize the plant. An example is urea. You can learn about this from our other materials.

In order for the spraying of trees to be carried out with high quality and to have good efficiency, it is necessary to have all necessary tools and fixtures.

Spring comes, and simultaneously with the awakening of plants, all kinds of insect pests and pathogens wake up. Therefore, the processing of the garden in the spring from diseases and pests is one of the most important spring activities for the care of the orchard - fruit trees and berry bushes.

When to process the garden from diseases and pests in the spring: schedule (terms) of work

IN different dates different diseases and pests appear, respectively, for each phase of plant development - its own specific processing.

It is very important not to be late and to be on time.

However! Don't be in too much of a hurry. If there is still snow outside the window, or the weather is unstable: it often rains, sleet, fog, then processing at this time will simply be ineffective.

Thus, when stable warm (+4..+5 degrees during the day and preferably not lower than 0 at night, -1..-2 is possible) and dry weather, you can spend.

By the way! Insect pests begin to wake up and crawl out of their shelters just at a temperature of about +4..+5 degrees.

Obviously, it is very difficult to name specific dates, where easier to navigate the development phases of your plants.

So, as a rule, garden treatments in the spring are carried out in the following stages of plant development:

Before the buds open, when they are still completely closed (sleeping);

Such processing is also called "" or "on a bare tree", in other words, the plant has not yet shown any signs of awakening (vegetation).

Note! Instead of treating dormant buds, some gardeners spray on those that have already, so to speak, begun to wake up, i.e. during their swelling (at the very beginning).

"Green Cone" When the buds have already burst, but the leaves have not yet appeared (turned around).
"By rose buds".

Interesting! Sometimes the treatment is carried out just before flowering, when the buds are ready to “just about” open up, or even during the period of direct flowering (but only against diseases).

"On the ovaries with a pea" (after flowering).

Note! If it seems to you that it is unrealistic to carry out such a number of treatments, then this is not at all the case, even if you are in the country only on weekends (1-2 days a week). Each stage lasts by no means one day. In addition, you can track all the stages on the city trees.

Video: types of spring spraying - 4 phases of treatment

Before bud break or early spring spraying

The first treatment can be carried out even before the buds open, when they (the buds) are still completely closed (are in a dormant state).

The snow has already melted and melted, the temperature is positive - +4..+5 degrees during the day, at night it is above or near 0 (zero).

Moreover, the first spraying, as a rule, is carried out both from diseases and from the wintering stages of insect pests.

Along the green cone

Spraying in the "green cone" phase is considered the most important and most favorable period for treating the garden from diseases and pests.

This phase is characterized by the fact that the buds on the trees have already burst, but the leaves have not yet unfolded, although they are already clearly visible (hence the “green cone”).

Important! If for some reason you did not process at the previous stage, then it is better to hurry up, since the duration of this phase (“green cone”) is relatively short. Moreover, if there is good sunny weather, a stable temperature above +10 degrees, then the kidneys will open quickly enough.

At this stage, usually use more serious drugs such as Horus (anti-disease fungicide), Decis Profi (insecticide), which can be mixed (tank mix).

However, if you skipped the previous treatment, now you can still spray with either one of the special solutions based on or with.

Specificity! For example, Horus works great at low positive temperatures (about +4..+5), while Skor, on the contrary, works better at more high temperatures(above +15). Therefore, before flowering (for example, in the "green cone" phase), it is possible to spray with Horus, and with Skorom - already at the "rose bud" stage and after flowering ("pea-sized ovaries").

At the same stage, for additional protection of trees from pests, trunks can be put on trapping belts, build and hang on trees glue traps, pheromone houses.

Interesting! It is at this phase that the apple flower beetle (weevil) begins its activity.

In the fight against him, you can use physical methods of struggle: simply shake off the bugs. Moreover, this should be done early in the morning, when it is still cold, at which time they are still “sleeping”. Take a long stick and gently slap the wood, shaking off the beetles on a pre-layed film.

Video: second spring spraying of the garden

Bud (flower bud) or "rose bud" stage

The third treatment should be carried out at the stage when the bud has formed and advanced (it is already pink), but has not yet opened.

Spraying at the "rosebud" stage is also carried out against pests and against diseases.

Interesting! At this stage, the apple codling moth begins its activity (laying eggs).

Naturally, at this stage, no one treats with any Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron sulphate, but continues (or just begins) to use serious preparations such as Horus or Skora, Decis Profi, Kinmiks, Karate Zeon.

By the way! Temperature conditions at the “rose bud” stage, as a rule, they improve, the weather is warm and sunny (temperature + 10-15 degrees and above), which means that you can start using biological preparations such as Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide and others.

By ovaries with a pea (after flowering)

Immediately after flowering, when pea-sized ovaries are formed, it is necessary to carry out treatment for diseases(especially against moniliosis in stone fruits, however, as in pome fruits) and against pests(for example, against the codling moth).

Preparations (fungicides and insecticides) are used similar (as in the previous stage), including the active use of biological preparations.

Advice! You can fight the apple codling moth with the help of compote bait (of course, apple). Cooked compote (from fresh apples or dried fruits, the main thing is that the smell is “apple”) you pour into buckets and hang on tree branches. Alternatively, you can simply add some apple cider vinegar to the water.

How to properly spray your garden in spring

When preparing solutions and spraying plants, observe safety precautions. If the packaging says that you need to wear special clothing (robe, overalls, raincoat), goggles and a respirator, rubber gloves, then you need to wear it.
Processing should be carried out only in dry and calm weather.

In sunny weather, it is better to refrain from spraying, because, quickly drying out, the preparations become ineffective or do not work at all. Spraying is best done in cloudy, calm weather, but not in the rain: after the rain, the branches are wet, as if a thin “film” of water is on them. And spraying is droplets of the solution, which in the same way cover the plant with a thin “film” of drops. If processing is carried out, the concentration of the solution will decrease, and the processing efficiency will decrease.

Spraying is preferably carried out early in the morning (after the dew has dried) or late in the evening (after sunset).
Processing is always carried out precisely after spring pruning, in order to additionally protect the cut points (ideally, if you sprinkle with copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquid, in other words, if there is copper in the fungicide).

Do not spray during the flowering period (bees and other pollinators can be harmed).

Important! At each stage, you can use both the same drugs (in order to save money), and new ones (it is better to change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

All prepared solutions should be passed through a filter mesh so as not to clog the sprayer.

Water is suitable for dissolving almost all drugs. room temperature(for vitriol - it is advisable to use hot, about + 40-50 degrees).

And if you use a biological product, then it is better to take settled or filtered water, i.e. without chlorine.

controversial situation: at the stage of the "green cone", as well as the "pink bud", it is necessary to carry out treatment for both pests and diseases. In principle, it is possible to prepare a tank mixture that will have insecticidal-fungicidal properties (be sure to check the compatibility of the preparations). But some agronomists believe that do not immediately give a double chemical load on the plant. It is better to take a break for at least 1 day (for example, on Saturday morning, treat with a fungicide, and on Sunday morning with an insecticide). It is also possible to spray with an interval of 1 week, i.e. on one weekend they were treated for pests, the next - for diseases (or vice versa).

Against what diseases and pests is the spring processing of the garden carried out

Diseases

spring processing orchard is carried out against the following fungal diseases of fruit trees and berry bushes:

Apple tree - scab, moniliosis (fruit rot) or monilial burn, rust (formed in summer).

Scab on apples

Pear - scab, phyllosticosis (brown spot), septoria (white spot), moniliosis (fruit rot) or monilial burn, rust (formed in summer).

Pear moniliosis (fruit rot)

Cherry, sweet cherry - clasterosporiasis (perforated spotting), moniliosis (fruit rot).

Cherry coccomycosis

Plum, cherry plum - clasterosporiasis (perforated spot), polystigmosis (red spot of plum or cherry plum), moniliosis (fruit rot).

Plum polystigmosis

Apricot, peach - klyasterosporiosis (perforated spotting), moniliosis (fruit rot).

Gooseberries, currants, raspberries - powdery mildew, septoria (white spotting), anthracnose, bacterial burn (in raspberries).
Strawberries (garden strawberries) - powdery mildew, gray rot.
Grapes - oidium (true powdery mildew), mildew (downy mildew), anthracnose, gray rot.

Thus, almost fruit crops are affected by these or other spots, as well as by various rots or powdery mildew.

Pests

The most the first processing of pome (apple, pear) and stone fruits (cherry, plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach) carried out against the following wintering stages of pests:

scale insects;
worms;
ticks;
sucker and other sucking and leaf-eating pests.

Second and subsequent processing of apple and pear trees (pomaceous crops) already carried out against the following pests:

apple flower beetle or apple flower beetle weevil;

apple fruit sawfly;
green apple aphid;
apple codling moth;

gray bud weevil;
bukarka;
goose;
leafworm and other leaf-eating;
budworms;
suckers;
moth.

Concerning stone fruits (cherries, plums, cherry plums), then already second and subsequent treatments is carried out against such pests as plum aphid, gray bud weevil, goose, cherry weevil, plum black sawfly, mining moths, leaf-eating caterpillars, eastern codling moth, cherry moth, cherry slimy sawfly, yellow plum sawfly, plum codling moth, cherry fly, plum pachypod , plum pollinated aphid.

Pests of berry crops(currants, gooseberries, raspberries) against which spring treatments are carried out are:

bud mite (tick buds on currants);
currant moth;

raspberry fly;
raspberry beetle;
galitsa (shoot and stem);
kidney moth.

The specifics of the processing of adult (old) and young trees

Mature trees and shrubs should preferably be treated in 4 stages, with at least 4 sprays.

While the tree does not bloom, insects stick to it less, so young seedlings and shrubs It will be enough to process only 2 times:

on dormant buds from diseases and wintering pests;
"on a green cone" from insect pests.

Advice! Young pome and stone fruit trees are best processed 3 times. After flowering, when pea-sized ovaries are formed - from diseases (especially against moniliosis).

Features of processing fruit trees and berry bushes

In the spring, you need to process how fruit trees, as well as shrubs. If you treat only trees and forget about shrubs, then some diseases and pests can again spread to trees.

However, it should be borne in mind that, for example, currants begin their vegetation earlier than most of the trees.

In general, as a rule, both trees and shrubs are sprayed at once in the spring, except that grapes are processed separately, perhaps even strawberries (garden strawberries).

Advice! You can learn about the specifics and differences in the processing of berry bushes (namely currants and raspberries) in the following video:

Video: protection and treatment of currants and raspberries from pests and diseases - how to spray shrubs in spring

How to process a garden in spring: the best preparations

To successfully treat the garden in the spring, you will need fungicides (drugs to fight diseases) and insecticides (drugs to fight insect pests), and these agents can be of both chemical origin and biological (taken out in a separate paragraph).

Note! At each stage, you can use both the same drugs (in order to save money), and new ones (it is better to change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

Important! The instructions for each drug always say when (at what time) they need to be processed.

Fungicides

As for preparations suitable for spring garden spraying against diseases, the following can be used fungicides (chemicals for the control of fungal diseases of plants):

Important! You need to choose only one preparation (fungicide).

Bordeaux mixture (3% solution of Bordeaux liquid - before bud break and 1% - in the "rose bud" stage);

Copper vitriol;

Abiga Peak ( contact fungicide based copper oxychloride, against scab, moniliosis, clasterosporiasis - perforated spotting, coccomycosis, leaf curl, powdery mildew and other diseases);

Hom ( contact fungicide based copper oxychloride);
Oksihom ( contact-systemic fungicide action based copper oxychloride and oxadixyl, against scab, moniliosis, various spotting: clasterosporiasis - perforated spotting, coccomycosis - brown spotting, leaf curl, powdery mildew, mildew, anthracnose and other diseases);

Order ( contact systemic fungicide based copper oxychloride and cymoxanil, very effective against mildew on grapes)

By the way! Some believe (partly rightly so) that treating plants with copper-containing preparations is harmful to human health. But copper is by no means the most harmful drug, especially in such doses and at such an early time, when fruiting is still very far away.

It should be understood that it is in early spring that there are practically no other effective substitutes (except for the use of iron sulfate). Biological preparations are completely ineffective (do not work) at low temperatures.

Inkstone;

Advice! About, when, how and why to use iron sulphate, described in detail.

Carbamide (urea);

As a rule, urea is used together with copper or iron sulphate.

Thiovit Jet ( contact fungicide based sulfur, especially effective against powdery mildew and mites);
Forecast ( systemic fungicide based propiconazole, against powdery mildew, rust, anthracnose, purple spot, septoria - white spot, gray rot and other diseases of berry bushes)
Horus ( systemic fungicide based cyprodinil, against scab, moniliosis, fruit rot, coccomycosis, alternariosis, clasterosporiasis - perforated spot, leaf curly, powdery mildew, oidium, mildew, gray rot and other diseases);

Speed ( systemic fungicide based difenoconazole, against scab, moniliosis, fruit rot, powdery mildew, coccomycosis, phyllostictosis - brown spotting, klesterosporiosis - perforated spotting, leaf curl, septoria, anthracnose, black spotting and other diseases);

Rayok ( systemic fungicide based difenoconazole, against scab, powdery mildew, curl and other diseases);

In fact, Speed \u003d Rayok (its analogue).

strobe ( systemic fungicide based kresoxim-methyl, against scab, powdery mildew, anthracnose, curliness, rust, oidium, mildew);
Topaz ( systemic fungicide based penconazole, against powdery mildew on berry crops, for example, on currants);

Fundazol ( systemic fungicide based benomyla, against scab, powdery mildew, oidium, gray rot);
Byleton ( systemic fungicide based triadymephone, against scab, powdery mildew, leaf curl, rust, oidium, gray rot);
And other broad-spectrum contact and systemic fungicides.

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against what diseases), terms, dosages!

Insecticides

As for preparations suitable for spraying the garden in spring against pests, the following insecticides (chemical pest control agents) can be used:

Important! You need to choose only one drug (insecticide).

Aktar;

Calypso;
Confidor;
Spark;

Intavir;
Kleshchevit;
Tanrek;

Fufanon;
Decis Pro;

Kinmiks;
Karate;

30 plus;
Engio.
and other broad-spectrum insecticides;

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against which pests), terms, dosages.

Video: how to spray trees in the spring from insect pests

Biologicals

Biological products are created on the basis of living organisms:

mushroom antagonists;

bacteria;

bacterial viruses;

beneficial insects (entomophages and acariphages).

Among biological products, fungicides, insecticides, and one insectofungicide can be distinguished.

Biological preparations of fungicidal action (against diseases):

Fitolavin;

Planriz;
Trichodermin;
Pentaphage;
Mikosan;
Pharma Iodine (based on iodine).

Biological preparations of insecticidal action (against pests):

Aktofit;

Interesting! Aktofit is created on the basis of toxins of biological origin.

Bitoxibacillin;
Lepidocid;
Fitoverm;
Gaupsin (insectofungicide of complex action).

Note! Yes, biologics have their advantages (they are environmentally friendly), but it's worth recognizing that they are not as effective as chemical agents.

Tank mixes (fungicides + insecticides)

Note! Not all drugs can be mixed. For example, practically nothing can be mixed with Bordeaux mixture (it has an alkaline reaction).

The instructions should be written with which drugs they can be combined.

For treatments (except for the first, when the kidneys are still sleeping), you can prepare the following tank mixtures (fungicide + insecticide):

Chorus (fungicide) + Decis Profi (insecticide);
Bayleton (fungicide) + Karate (insecticide);
Biological tank mix: Gaupsin ( insectofungicide of complex action)+ Lepidocide (insecticide) + Bitoxibacillin (insecticide);
AND a lot others.

Thus, now you have all the information for a successful spring garden treatment from diseases and pests. You just need to purchase drugs (fungicides and insecticides) and monitor the development of your plants, as well as the weather.

Video: how to spray a garden in spring - processing fruit trees from diseases and pests

In contact with

Spring cultivation of the garden is of great importance in the fight against diseases and pests of plants. Since at this time there is an opportunity to destroy pests in the bud, as well as to prevent the reproduction of harmful bacteria and fungi in the maximum way, to stop the spread of viruses.

Many naively believe that a single spray will be enough. But it's not. Comprehensive measures are needed, including the treatment of fruit and berry bushes and trees with special preparations in at least four stages.

In this material, I will also talk about popular remedies and preparations, and give step-by-step instructions for the competent preparation of the garden in the spring months.

In the very early spring, preferably before the snow melts, inspect your garden and carry out the following activities:

1.1. Inspect the condition of the trunks of fruit trees for peeling bark. Clean damaged areas with a metal brush;

Step 1. Garden preparation in spring - inspection and cleaning

1.2. Inspect the condition of the branches of berry bushes. In early spring, before the buds swell, shed the trunk part of the bushes with boiling water (+ 70-90 ° C,);

1.3. To identify the presence of nests of overwintering insects, large cracks, hollows usually serve to lay eggs of harmful insects for the winter. It is necessary to clean and eliminate all this (burn).

Step 2. Trimming

Pruning is carried out in early spring, before the start of sap flow of plants. Necessary:

2.1. Carry out either sanitary or aesthetic pruning of the crowns of trees and shrubs;

2.2. Buy a new good secateurs - the main working tool of the gardener;

2.3. You must use a well-sharpened garden tools- secateurs and loppers, avoid biting branches and torn pruning;

Step 2. Preparing the garden in spring - pruning

2.4. Treat the pruning sites with garden pitch. Currently, garden pitch is produced in aerosol form, which makes it convenient to use.

Treatment of open areas of plants with garden pitch

Step 3. Cleaning up plant residues

3.1. The main cleaning of fallen leaves should be carried out in the fall, not left in the winter. Fertilized female insect pests go into the soil and winter there under fallen leaves, plant debris, falling into diapause, withstanding temperatures down to -30 ° C. Abandoned leaves and debris are also favorable wintering grounds for rodents.

3.2. In the spring, carefully remove the remains of foliage, cut and fallen branches.

Step 4. Digging in the trunk circles

This is a traditional spring stage of mandatory work, allowing in a simple way improve soil aeration. Performed immediately after defrosting. If digging is carried out together with plant residues, because supporters of organic farming leave leaves, grass, hay in the trunk circles, then they are a must treat with carbamide (urea) 0.5 kg. for 10 l. water or a bacterial preparation that accelerates the maturation of compost, otherwise they will become a breeding ground for pests.

Step 5. Whitewash

5.1. Whitewashing should be carried out in the fall in order to protect against fungal infections, lichens, and pest larvae. In the spring, whitewashing is carried out to a greater extent with an aesthetic and preventive purpose.

Step 5. Preparing the garden in spring - whitewashing

5.2. For whitewashing use a special garden whitewash, which includes fungicides and adhesive additives. Available in dry form or in the form of a paste, which is diluted with water before use. Recently popular acrylic garden paint, which has moisture-proof properties and allows you to stay on the trees longer. The composition of acrylic whitewash also contains active substances and fungicides.

5.3. Previously, lime was used for these purposes. A homemade whitewash mixture was made from lime, water, clay and blue vitriol. Today, gardeners refuse this composition, because lime, due to its alkaline properties, causes serious harm to the bark of a tree, and, together with insects and larvae, destroys the natural protective layer - the bark. In the future, the tree becomes even more vulnerable.

Step 6. Chemical (insectoacaricidal) treatment

There are FOUR stages of spring treatments - see table

Stages	Timing	The purpose of the	Drug (optional)
Stage 1	Before swelling of the kidneys (daytime t + 3-5 ° С)	- Destruction of overwintered insects	- The drug "30 Plus"; — Solar oil
Stage 2	The beginning of bud break (daytime t + 12-17 ° С)	– Fight against diseases caused by fungal infection (coccomycosis, moniliosis, scab, anthracnose, etc.); - Destruction of kidney mites, weevil larvae, apple codling, etc.	- Bordeaux liquid; - Iron / copper sulfate; - Tar / Tar soap; - / Horus / Strobe. - Nitrafen; - Broad spectrum insecticides.
Stage 3	Before flowering	– Treatment for the prevention and increase of immunity to fungal diseases; - Fight against apple codling moth, scab and spotting.	- Bordeaux liquid; - copper sulfate; — Karbofos,
Stage 4	After flowering	– Destruction of the pest complex	— colloidal sulfur, - Broad spectrum drugs

Stage 1 "Spraying until the buds swell"

The first spraying of trees is carried out in the garden, when night air temperatures are slightly above zero, and daytime temperatures are around + 3-5 ° C, active sap flow has not begun and the buds have not yet begun to swell.

The first treatment is the most important, it cannot be missed in any way - firstly, it affects the larvae in the embryo and not yet active insects, and secondly, it is possible to use drugs in their maximum concentration.

At this stage, tree trunks are treated with special preparations for mineral oil based.

An effective drug that is currently actively used is. The action is based on the fact that, firstly, enveloping the insect and larva with a thin oil film leads to suffocation, and secondly, the drug dissolves chitin, which all insects and their eggs consist of, which also leads to their death.

There is a folk analogue of this drug - diesel fuel. Yes, it is the well-known diesel fuel! Spraying with diesel fuel also provides a coating of tree trunks and shrubs with an oily film. The effect is the same, at a lower financial cost.

Stage 2 "Spraying at bud break"

Treatment at this stage is aimed at preventing diseases caused by fungal infection - coccomycosis, moniliosis, scab, anthracnose, etc. For this, carbamide (urea), copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, tar soap are used.

And against insect pests, universal chemical insecticides are used. For example:

Apples, cherries, cherries, plums, apricots, peaches can be treated with Engio preparations or (package for 10 liters of water).
Grapes can be sprayed with Hom, Topaz (12 ml per 10 l) from powdery mildew, or iron sulfate.
For raspberries and currants, preference is given to drugs or.

More details on the use of specific preparations for the treatment of fruit trees in the following table:

Stage 3 "Spraying before flowering"

Immediately before flowering, orchards are usually treated for codling moth caterpillars, scab and spotting. At this stage, he uses insect-acaricides of a wide spectrum of action (, "Iskra", "Karbofos", "Horus", "Engio", etc.).

A 10% solution of "Karbofos" is effective with a single treatment (70 g per 10 liters of water). In a separate article, the features of its application are considered.

During flowering, the treatment of plants is not carried out, it is detrimental to bees, and may adversely affect the pollination of flowers.

Stage 4 "Spraying after flowering"

Immediately after flowering, the trees are treated for the 4th final time of the spring garden treatment. Use broad-spectrum insecticides and fungicides (for example,). In a separate article "" the features of its application are considered.

Spray trees completely, start from the crown, end with the root part of the trunk;
Prepare a working solution based on the calculation of 5-6 liters per adult tree, 1-1.5 liters. on a bush;
Use personal protective equipment;
Processing is carried out in non-rainy and calm weather. The minimum waiting period is 3-4 days. If it rained, then the treatment should be repeated.
Apply universal preparations to protect against a complex of pests;
Be interested in and use new drugs, give preference to biological drugs (Drug "30 Plus", "Fitoverm", etc.)
And the most important thing is not to waste time and carry out all the stages of early spring processing on time.