How to lay parquet boards. How to lay parquet: methods, necessary tools and a step-by-step process for proper installation. How to make parquet seams less visible

Self-laying of a parquet board is quite acceptable if you strictly follow the algorithm of actions according to the chosen type of installation, choose the right materials and fasteners, and take the time to prepare the surface. What are the board mounting methods and what are the features of each of them? More on that below.

Armed with simple knowledge, lay yourself down parquet board almost everyone can

The prototype of a modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when the Swedish company Gustav Chers found a way to replace expensive piece parquet with an almost equal analogue at a budget price.

The first board consisted of two layers. The presence of a number of shortcomings did not allow the authors of the product to upgrade it in the near future. But five years later, another Swedish manufacturer Tarkett launched the world's first three-layer parquet board on the market. Today, the material is presented almost unchanged and is in great demand among consumers.

Each layer of a parquet board is designed for specific purposes, which together makes this material durable and wear-resistant.

The production of parquet boards with oil or lacquer coating opens up an opportunity for people with an average income level to afford finishing the floor natural wood within budget. It is noteworthy that you can lay the parquet board with your own hands, quickly and without violating the technology. During operation, such a floor is easy to repair, replacing individual sections.

The material is presented in a wide range in the most different colors and shades, with a variety of textures and parameters.

Design features of the board: what does it consist of?

New generation parquet board - a practical three-layer board made of natural wood species with a length of 2000 to 2600 mm, a thickness of 13 to 15 mm and a width of 139 to 210 mm. The parameters vary depending on the manufacturer. For the finishing layer, varnish or oil mixtures are used.

The board structure is bottom layer, which plays the role of a stabilizer, the middle and so-called worker - upper layer. Each of them plays a role.

The lower one is made of spruce veneer, usually 2 to 4 mm thick, designed to stabilize and prevent deformation of the panels. The middle layer with a thickness of up to 8 mm is made from pine planks with a width of up to 30 mm, laid out along the width of the board.

The front top layer - lamellas made of practical expensive wood with a thickness of up to 5 mm, laid along the length of the board, fixed on the surface of the middle layer with glue. It is the top layer that is responsible for the appearance of the board, recreating the wood structure with a certain pattern on the surface.

The working layer must be polished and additionally treated with oil or varnish mixtures. Then, during use, the parquet board can be re-sanded at least three times with the renewal of the varnish or oil coating.

It is much easier and faster to lay a parquet board than ordinary parquet due to its design features.

The fibers of the wood of the layers fastened together are perpendicular to each other. This mounting option allows you to prevent deformation of the floor under the influence of temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity indicators.

It is not difficult to assemble parquet on the basis of a parquet board on your own, since the material is additionally equipped with a tongue-and-groove locking system. Top layer slats - lamellas, depending on the type of product, may have different variants location.

What styling options are used?

Before proceeding with the preparation of the installation, you need to decide what the laying technology will be, taking into account the type of base, the characteristics of the material (structure and parameters). There are three options for attaching plates:

on glue;
mechanically;
floating method.

Each option has its own characteristics. The so-called "floating" method with the "thorn-groove" system is considered the most common. Laminate is installed in a similar way. It will be relevant only in cases where the thickness of the plate does not exceed 14 mm.

The main advantage of this mounting option is that the board after installation will not need additional processing and can be used immediately after the varnish or oil mixture has dried on the floor surface. In addition, laying a parquet board in this way is easy and quite within the power even for people without experience.

Option for laying parquet boards on glue on a concrete base

The so-called glue method involves fixing the coating on the glue with passing gluing of the boards together. This option is convenient to use when the thickness of the dies is more than 14 mm. Its minus is the laboriousness of the work and the cost of high-quality glue.

The mechanical fastening option involves the use of self-tapping screws. Fasteners are driven into the groove under certain angle. This installation option is appropriate when using a board with a thickness of 20 mm or more with a rough base made of wood or logs.

How to properly prepare the base?

You need to understand that step-by-step instruction for the installation of a parquet board will differ depending on the type of subfloor. Preparation of the floor for the installation of wood flooring includes:

recovery;
adjustment;
cleaning.

All types of work are an important stage in the installation of a parquet board, so they must be carried out with the utmost responsibility.

Do not neglect even such simple operations as the usual cleaning of the floor; this can affect the evenness and durability of the parquet flooring

How to prepare a wooden floor?

What will be the technology of preparing a wooden floor depends on its condition. If the subfloor is relatively new, with virtually no defects in the form of height differences, boards with mold or fungus, the restoration step is skipped. The old floor will need to be repaired, with damaged areas replaced as necessary.

But without adjusting the base, it will not work. Deflections of boards will require strengthening, knots - grinding, cracks - sealing. Important point- checking the degree of curvature of the surface. To achieve a perfectly flat surface, you can process the floor with sanding equipment or choose the option with puttying. A mandatory step is to check the design of the lag, which involves the dismantling of the boards in one of the zones to analyze the condition of the subfloor.

Preparing a wood floor can take longer than laying hardwood flooring directly, but it is essential to do so.

Concrete base - preparation features

If do-it-yourself laying is planned on a concrete base, then the preparation process will not be as complicated and time-consuming as in the case of a wooden floor.

First of all, a visual assessment of the surface is necessary. At this stage, cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of brittle crumbling concrete are revealed. Even small defects must be repaired, for example, using self-levelling compounds. Before surface treatment, the surface is primed, or, alternatively, the old coating is dismantled, pouring a new, even and strong one.

Quick adjustment of small areas of the floor can be done with improvised means.

What do you need to know about wood flooring?

Regardless of the type of installation and the type of base, it is correct to lay the parquet board on the substrate layer. The material between the finishing and subfloor performs the following functions:

smoothes out small irregularities;
increases the level of heat and sound insulation properties;
evenly distributes the load in the process of using the floor;
prevents contact of moisture with the finish wood coating;
prolongs the life of the floor.

The most commonly used polyethylene foam backing is also popular duplex, cork, foil backing and polystyrene layer.

It is better to spend a little more time and money on a parquet flooring installation than to regret a possible unsuccessful result in the future.

How to attach a board to glue: instructions

It should be noted that laying a parquet board is not easy. The method is one of the most time-consuming, implying serious costs for materials for fastening. Most often, this installation option is chosen when it is necessary to arrange the floor in large-scale premises. However, in apartments and private houses, parquet boards are also allowed to be glued to the surface, not forgetting that the adhesive mixtures set quickly and it will not be so easy to correct the shortcomings in the process.

High-quality and correct laying on glue means fastening the dies directly to the base. Apply glue to a screed made of concrete, plywood or a gypsum version of the subfloor. The base must be prepared - even and clean. Lay the board according to the following algorithm:

The first row of dice is laid out in the order in which they will lie, after which glue is applied to the subfloor, taking into account the area occupied by the first row.
The first die is mounted with a gap from the wall (at least 6 mm).
The second board is attached to the first using a special tamping hammer. It is necessary to fix the floor elements together quickly, given that the glue dries quickly and leaves no time to make adjustments.
The last board in the row is trimmed if necessary.
Lay the remaining rows of boards.
The last row, if necessary, is also cut.

As a rule, for installation use one or two-component adhesive water-based, which provides the desired level of fixation of the material on the surface of the base.

Putting a parquet board on glue - correct solution for any room

How to lay a floor from parquet boards in a "floating" method: steps

The simplest is laying in a floating way with your own hands. The work will not take much time, is carried out in a dry way and does not require additional elements mounts. You can begin to mount the floor immediately after the installation of the substrate. And here again, there are two styling options:

on glue;
with a locking system.

In the first case, in addition to ready-made tongue and groove joints, glue is applied to the ends of the boards for additional fixation between them. Laying on the subfloor will look like this:

the boards are placed with the ridge side towards the wall, moving from the left corner of the room;
the second board is inserted into the lock until a characteristic click and pre-treatment of the end parts with glue;
if necessary, the boards of the last row and at the threshold are cut.

To achieve the most tight connection and reliability of the "floating" floor, the boards are knocked together with a special hammer.

Laying in a "floating" way in certain cases also takes place, especially since it is simpler and faster than others

Installation of parquet boards on logs - how to do it right?

In order to properly lay the board on the logs, you need to have minimal experience with parquet materials, since this method is quite complicated compared to those described above. Mount the material on the logs according to the following algorithm:

Check the moisture level of the lags, eliminate possible defects.
The joists are covered with plywood. This stage is skipped only if the parquet board has a sufficient level of thickness. The step between the lags is small.
Parquet dies are fixed with glue or with the help of a locking system on the substrate layer.

The finished floor can be used almost immediately after installation.

If the house already has a log base, you do not need to disassemble it, you can simply eliminate the defects, it is possible to strengthen and start laying the parquet floor

Parquet board and "warm floor" system - is it possible?

Despite the high level of heat and sound insulation properties, the base under the parquet board can be arranged according to the "warm floors" principle. Additional thermal insulation will not hurt, especially since the material is quite harmoniously combined with the design of the heated floor.

Only possible variant underfloor heating for installation of parquet flooring - water-based. Electric heating systems are excluded, since the increased temperature in the floor area will cause cracking as the interlock system boards are used.

The laying of the material begins on the switched off system, which has cooled down to room temperature. After installing a wooden floor, it is connected no earlier than a week later, gradually increasing the temperature. It is important that the temperature over the entire surface of the floor is the same - this will prevent deformation of the coating.

Water-based underfloor heating option under the parquet board

The finishing part of the installation of the floor from the parquet board will be the laying of skirting boards and thresholds. The threshold is necessary to mask the transition between rooms, in addition, it will allow, regardless of which laying methods have been chosen, to improve the aesthetic appearance of the room, protect the joints from dust and dirt, extend the life of the floor, and form a complete picture of the interior.

The threshold can be made of wood, laminate, metal, plastic and even cork.

To avoid damage to the parquet board, use only recommended equipment.

In conclusion, a few useful tips. Considering that the material will have to be cut, it does not hurt to know how to cut the parquet board so as not to violate its integrity. The ideal option is an electric jigsaw. The tool will allow you to cut the board quickly and efficiently.

In order for the seams on the finished wooden floor not to be so conspicuous, they should be placed parallel to the light falling from the window. It is possible to lay a parquet board not only on concrete or on plank floors, but also on non-standard options grounds - linoleum, carpet or tiles. In such cases, the substrate is not used, since the subfloor already has the necessary level of heat and sound insulation.

It would seem that due to the impressive size of the parquet board, its laying is much easier than parquet or laminate. This is not entirely true. This material, which has a pronounced layered structure, can easily fail even with minor violations of its laying technology. We have to reckon with the fact that this process is not easy, there are plenty of subtleties and nuances in it. Before the beginning independent work not only should the instructions for laying parquet boards from the manufacturer be thoroughly studied, but also the experience and advice of those who have professionally mastered this process should be taken into account.

What is parquet board

Outwardly, it resembles a laminate: the same oblong panel. Its standard sizes are:

length 1.8-2.4 m;
width 14-20 cm;
thickness 10-24 mm.

A distinctive feature of the division of parquet boards into groups is the structure of the base:

PD-1 - has a single-layer rack base, assembled into squares and rectangles, oriented perpendicular to each other (see Fig. 1a). Longitudinal edges are pasted over with laths.
PD-2 - has a single-layer lath base oriented along the axis of the board (see Fig. 1b).
PD-3 - has a two-layer base of laths oriented perpendicular to each other (see Fig. 1c and 1d).

Figure 1. Types of parquet board.

Another hallmark- number of plates:

One-strip parquet board (see Fig. 1d - 1).
Two-lane (see Fig. 1e - 2).
Three-lane (see Fig. 1d - 3).

This is a natural finishing material. For the manufacture of the outer layer, valuable and coniferous wood is used. The front side is usually covered with a transparent parquet varnish.

Before starting work, stock up on the necessary tools:

a saw with fine teeth;
square, tape measure, ruler and pencil;
a hammer and a block for tamping;
drill and drills;
wedges and braces.

Figure 2. Ways of laying a parquet board: 2a - ultralock, 2b - kombilok.

In the room where the laying is carried out, certain conditions must be maintained: humidity 40-60% and temperature 18-22 ºС. If laying on a heated floor, its temperature should be reduced to 18-20 ºС a day or two before the start of work. You can increase it to the usual values \u200b\u200b(but not higher than 28 ºС) two days after the end of the work.

Wood noticeably changes its dimensions with changes in humidity, therefore, a gap of about 1 cm wide should be left between the coating and the walls. Wedges give the coating reliability. There should also be gaps around the pipes. Finishing material must be kept in the room where the laying is to be done for at least two days. All this time it must remain in the package.

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floating laying method

The most popular method for rooms whose area does not exceed 60 m 2. This technology of laying a parquet plate implies that the base of the floor is well prepared, and the board has a good and reliable lock (see Fig. 2). There are several types of lock connections, but the two main ones are most common:

ultralock (Fig. 2a);
kombilok (Fig. 2b).

Most experts prefer the connection combilok. It is easier to assemble and more reliable to tear.

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Substrate surface preparation for laying

Figure 3. The technology of laying parquet boards.

For laying in this way, you need a solid, very even and dry base. These properties are typical for concrete screed and adjustable wood floors. Both options have their pros and cons:

the screed can be thin, which is especially important for low rooms;
communications can be laid under adjustable floors, but the height of the room is slightly reduced.

A parquet floor on an uneven base will squeak annoyingly, so leveling control must be careful, it is done using a long building or hydraulic level. The screed is best done on the basis of self-leveling mixtures. After laying and leveling, you need to give it about three weeks of exposure to gain strength and dry completely.

The basis of the adjustable floor is a durable plate made of moisture-resistant plywood, into which threaded adjusting legs are screwed. They can adjust the ideal horizontal position. Fast, convenient and reliable way. Another plus: on such a basis you can lead in any way.

To protect the parquet from moisture, a synthetic, composite or natural cork substrate must be laid under it. Its thickness should not be more than 2-3 mm. A special adhesive tape is used to seal the seams between the sheets of the substrate.

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The order and technology of laying

Figure 4. Ways of laying a parquet board: 4a - adhesive, 4b - at an angle, 4c - laying on a wooden base, 4d - laying on logs.

The first row of panels is laid with the left side of the lock (see Fig. 2) against the wall with a gap of about 1 cm and reinforced with wedges. The direction is taken along the daylight falling from the window. Each new row usually starts with the remainder of the previous one, if it is not less than 0.5 m. It is necessary to ensure that dirt and sand do not get into the lock joint. To finish off the docked boards, a wooden block can be used.

If desired, the lock joints of the boards can be glued. They do this not to fix the connections, but to protect against water spilled on the floor.

In order to outline the pipes, applying a board to them, they make markings (see Fig. 3a and 3b), drill holes with a diameter 2 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe and saw off the edge of the board (see Fig. 3c). Then the board is laid in place and the sawn-off segment is glued (see Fig. 3d). The edge of the hole can be closed with a suitable ring.

The boards of the last row are cut to the desired width, taking into account the expansion gap, the key edge is cut off from the groove of the boards of the penultimate row, and glue is applied to the groove. After that, the boards are carefully put into place with the help of a stop bracket. Expansion wedges are installed in the expansion gap.

At the end of laying, wedges are removed from the expansion gap around the entire perimeter of the floor and a plinth is installed. The plinth is attached only to the wall.

Installation floor covering- the process is very responsible and not always simple, especially when it comes to parquet boards. Proper laying of parquet has many nuances, and an inexperienced person may seem an impossible task. But if you study the instructions in detail and correctly choose the material, do-it-yourself parquet board installation will turn out no worse than that of specialists.

The parquet board is a popular and demanded material, so it is produced by many enterprises. Not all of them can boast high quality your product, which means you should choose very carefully.

A standard parquet board consists of three layers:

the front layer is made of expensive wood, varnished or impregnated with special oil. The thickness of the front cover is from 1 to 6 mm;
for the middle layer, short spruce and pine slats are used, and sometimes moisture-resistant plywood. All elements of the castle system are also located here;
the third layer is 2 mm thick spruce veneer.

: length 2-2.5 m, width up to 20 cm, thickness from 7 to 26 mm.

For rooms with a small load on the floor, a board with a thickness of 10 mm or more is suitable. For the living room, it is better to choose a coating with a thickness of 13-15 mm, which is more resistant to mechanical stress. If the floor will be laid on logs, and not on a concrete screed, you should choose a parquet board of maximum thickness.

Another criterion for selection is the number of lamellas of the upper layer. If the front layer consists of a single piece of wood, it is called single-strip. If the flooring consists of two or three tightly fitted parallel lamellas, it is already a multi-strip parquet board. Single-strip boards visually expand the room, look great in classic interiors. There are options for such a coating with chamfers at the corners, which gives the impression massive board from expensive wood.

The most traditional option is a three-strip board with a pattern for natural parquet. Each of the three lamellas is divided into several segments that differ in tone. The segments can be arranged in the form of a wickerwork, parquet herringbone or in parallel, in the form of a deck pattern. This coating is very decorative, looks great in both small and spacious rooms.

It is necessary to lay the parquet board on a solid, even and clean base. Any defects, cracks, delamination of the base lead to deformation of the boards and reduce their strength. When installing this coating, a difference in height of only 1-3 mm per square meter. So, to begin with, the base is cleaned of debris and dust, its integrity is checked. Deep cracks should be repaired cement mortar, small ones just overwrite. With the help of the rule, the floor plane is checked, if necessary, a screed is poured.

A plastic film or a special waterproofing membrane is laid on a dry base. Its edges should go on the walls by about 5 cm.

A layer of thermal insulation should be laid on the film; most often, polyethylene foam in rolls is used for these purposes. The insulation is cut into pieces along the length of the floor, tightly laid against the walls, glued together with adhesive tape. Instead of polyethylene, polystyrene foam boards and sheet cork are also used. The insulation layer has good cushioning, does not allow cement dust to seep in, and evens out minor defects grounds.

During the installation process you will need:

There are two installation methods: floating and adhesive.

The first option is the fastest and most convenient. In this case, the boards can be fastened with locks or glued together with ends. The locking system allows you to lay the coating in the most short time, besides, it greatly facilitates the replacement of damaged areas.

Step 1. Mounting the first row

First, measure the width of the room and calculate the number of rows of panels. It is very important to know the width of the last row: if it is less than 4 cm, all the boards of the first row should be cut to width. Start work from the corner of the longest wall from left to right. The board is deployed with a lock to the wall and placed on the floor.

Several mounting wedges are inserted between the wall surface and the edge of the board to provide a gap of 6-7 mm. The end of the next board is closely attached to the first and the grooves are connected. So they mount the entire first row, cutting the last board to the size of the room and not forgetting about the gap between the wall and the coating.

Step 2. Laying subsequent rows

For high-quality adhesion, the rows must be shifted parallel to each other by at least 30 cm. The first panel of the second row is cut in half and laid away from the wall. To connect with the first row, the board is taken with both hands, applied at an angle to the edge of the fixed panel, leveled and the lock is snapped into place with pressure. The remaining panels are mounted in the same way. To speed up this process, use a rubber or wooden mallet, carefully knocking the boards along the joint line.

Step 3. Cutting the cover under the door frame

When installing the coating near the doorway, a piece of board is taken and applied to the bottom edge of the box. They cut out part of the rack so that the board fits snugly under the box, and sawdust and dust are immediately removed. A thin line of the substrate is cut along the threshold, applied aluminum profile with holes for fastening, marking them on the floor with a pencil.

Drill holes for the dowels and fix the profile. Next, cut the parquet board, insert it under door frame, snap locks. At the end, a metal threshold is mounted at the opening, screwing it to the profile and closing the ends of the boards.

Step 4. The final stage of installation

When laying a parquet board around communication pipes, a paper template is used: a template is applied to the panel, the boundaries of the hole are marked with a pencil, and the desired fragment is cut out with a jigsaw. It is necessary to leave at least 1 cm between the last row and the wall of the room, otherwise floor deformations are possible. When all the boards are laid, the wedges are removed, the skirting boards are mounted, the floor surface is wiped with a clean cloth.

Adhesive installation method

With the adhesive installation method, the parquet board is laid directly on the concrete screed. In order for the floor covering to serve for a long time, the base is well prepared: carefully leveled, cleaned of dust, covered with a dense layer of synthetic-based primer.

The fastening of each panel should take no more than 10 minutes, so that the glue does not have time to dry. Instead of a sealant, you can use cork chips - it easily penetrates into the seams, insulates heat well, and does not let cement dust through.

Installation of parquet boards on underfloor heating and logs

The parquet board is very demanding on temperature regime and does not tolerate overheating. The maximum allowable value is 26 ° C above zero, and even then not for every type of wood. If the material is suitable for laying on a warm floor, this must be indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. If there is no such information, it is not worth the risk, because the replacement of cracked floors will be very expensive. The parquet board is mounted directly on the underfloor heating system in a floating way.

It is not recommended to lay such a coating on a water-heated floor, since if pipes break and burst, the parquet board will be severely damaged. It is best if an electric or infrared warm floor is installed - their design is more reliable.

Many people prefer to lay the flooring on the logs. In this case, you will need sheets of waterproof plywood and self-tapping screws for its fastening. Logs must be strong and even, located in the same horizontal plane. The space between the lags is covered with a waterproofing film, filled with insulation, and then plywood sheets pre-treated with an antiseptic composition are stuffed on top.

When using the adhesive mounting method, the boards are glued directly to the plywood, but if the floating method is used, it is recommended to lay a cork backing on the plywood. The laying process takes place according to the technology described above. In some cases, the parquet board is mounted directly on the logs. In this case, the distance between the lags is made no more than 60 cm, and the maximum thickness of the parquet board is chosen.

Video - Do-it-yourself parquet board

Many owners choose a parquet board as a floor covering. And this is quite understandable. This coating looks great in the interior. If the technology of laying parquet boards is observed, then the floor will last for many years. The undoubted advantage of the coating is the ease of maintenance. Many people think that it is difficult to lay a parquet board on their own. Later in the article we will see if this is so.

Tools

Of course, the laying of parquet boards is carried out with the help of special devices. I must say that every owner has most of the tools. Panel cutting is best done with a jigsaw. If this tool is not available, then it is quite possible to use a hacksaw with fine teeth (for metal). The parquet board is knocked out with a hammer. Its weight should be about 1 kg. A specially prepared piece of plastic acts as a tamping bar. It is included in the standard kit for laying laminate or parquet. A plastic bar is not as rigid as a wooden one. Thanks to this, chips at the edges of the panels can be avoided. In the process of laying, you will also need plastic restrictive wedges. They are necessary to fix the gap between the coating and the walls. These wedges can be completely made independently from wood. Another device included in the parquet laying kit is a metal bracket. With its help, fixation is carried out last panel. If there is no metal bracket, it can be replaced with a clamp. Also in the work you will need a tape measure, a level and a square.

Laying a parquet board: basic methods

Depending on the dimensions of the panels, one or another version of the flooring is used. Among the most popular are the following:

On the lag.
With the help of nails. The panels are nailed to the wooden subfloor.
glue method.
floating way. In this case, the connection of the panels is carried out using a special lock.

The latter option is considered the most popular today, since in this case it is convenient to lay a parquet board both in a small room and in a large room. Adhesive flooring is used less and less today. This is due to the greater complexity of the entire process. In this case, the flooring of the panels requires perseverance from the master. Fixing with nails to a subfloor made of wood is used, as a rule, for massive parquet. But I must say that this type of panels is gradually disappearing from stores. When laying parquet on logs, it is necessary to arrange a distance between them of no more than 30-40 cm. This is not very economically profitable. That is why in 90% of cases today the floating method of flooring is used. This option is considered ideal for those who are going to do the work themselves. In any case, regardless of the chosen method, before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to prepare the base. It must be clean, even and dry.

Preparatory stage

Before laying the parquet board, it is kept for two or three days in the room where the work will be carried out. Under the panels it is necessary to lay a substrate. It can be cork or synthetic. Thanks to the substrate, the parquet board will be protected from excess moisture. Strips of material must be glued at the joints with adhesive tape. The more tightly the parts fit together and the more carefully they are closed, the more airtight the base. Laying a parquet board with your own hands can be carried out both in parallel and diagonal methods. The selected option will not affect the performance of the coating. However, it should be remembered that diagonal laying significantly increases the consumption of parquet boards. It can range from 2 to 7%. As a rule, the diagonal method is used in those rooms where it is necessary to smooth out the effect of an unsuccessful arrangement of furniture.

First row

Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay a parquet board. The first stage involves the flooring of the 1st and 2nd rows. They should be parallel to the light falling from the window. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, wedges should be installed against the wall to provide a gap. The gap between the coating and the wall is at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to protect the panels from mechanical damage when changing the temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The first two panels are pressed tightly against the expansion wedges.

Optimal distance between seams

Many beginners do not know how to properly lay a parquet board. When laying the second row, experienced specialists recommend sawing off the nearest panel to the wall to a length of at least 80 cm. It is considered ideal if the transverse seam in the first row will be located opposite the middle of the second board. However, in any case, the minimum run-up must be maintained. The transverse seams of parallel rows should be located at a distance of at least half a meter from each other. Otherwise, the connections will be fragile.

Second row

Many craftsmen find the floating method very convenient. If there are any errors in the installation process, it is quite possible to correct everything. The panel from the second row must be inserted into the groove of the first. To do this, the board tilts at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. The panel is latched, but not fixed. The second board is inserted in the same way. She also snaps and is pushed to the first. After the panels are tightly joined, they are fixed in the groove of the first row. To completely eliminate the seam, the boards are beaten with a beam. According to this technique, flooring is carried out over the entire floor.

The last row

Many, especially beginners, masters may experience some difficulties at the final stage of laying. By following these tips, you can make your job much easier. First of all, you should measure the distance from the wall to the penultimate row. The width of the panel that will complete the flooring should be 1 cm less than the obtained value. This ensures the necessary expansion gap. In the groove of the penultimate row, it is necessary to cut off the key edge. After that, the final boards are inserted. For a tight insert, a mounting foot or clamp is used.

Shutdown

The final step is the installation of skirting boards. The wedges must first be removed from the compensation gap. Skirting boards are fixed exclusively to the wall surface. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that it is loosely pressed against the parquet. The width of the plinth should be enough to hide the expansion gap.

Diagonal Method

Laying parquet in this way is carried out in the same way as described above. The only difference is that the panels are not located directly, but at an angle of 45 degrees with respect to the axis of the room. It is best to determine the direction of the flooring, standing with your back to the doors. This option is not suitable for a rectangular narrow room, as it will look very colorful.

Finishing

Previously, traditionally, after laying the parquet, its scraping was carried out. This made it possible to achieve a perfectly flat surface. For modern parquet flooring, this procedure is not required. But during operation, in some cases, it becomes necessary to refresh the surface. For this, scraping is carried out to a depth of not more than 0.5 mm and an additional coating with several layers of varnish. A three-layer parquet board is put in order using a belt-type grinder. Powerful drum units are not suitable for this work. This is due to the fact that they create a fairly strong vibration, which, in turn, negatively affects the internal structure of the coating. Grinding begins with a sandpaper, the grit of which is 40. The process is completed with an abrasive of 150. The completion of the work can be checked by running your hand across the floor. If there are no roughnesses, then grinding is finished.

From this article you will learn:

What are the ways of laying a parquet board?
How to lay parquet board yourself

Repairs in Moscow must be taken seriously. It is necessary to clearly define the type of flooring that you would like.

Using parquet as flooring is not only good way declare their wealth and status. It is also an opportunity to demonstrate to others that you have excellent taste. In addition, parquet as a coating is very reliable, environmentally friendly and has a long service life. Previously, in order to lay parquet, it was necessary to work hard, while possessing certain skills. Now, thanks to the appearance of a massive parquet board, everything has become somewhat easier. If you follow the recommendations of experts, then the process of laying it will not be too difficult for you. Today we will talk about how to lay a parquet board.

At the moment, there are two types of parquet boards on sale: massive and multi-layered. The difference between them is in the way they are made.

massive parquet boards are made from different breeds trees, both deciduous and coniferous. But to create it is taken whole piece wood. Grooves and ridges are made along the ends of the board.
In the manufacture multilayer Several types of wood are used in parquet boards, each with its own advantages. Thanks to this combination, a parquet board with high performance is obtained at the output. So, the top layer of parquet is made from solid and precious woods, because it will be “responsible” for the appearance of the floor. The middle layer of the plates is placed at an angle of 90 degrees to the top, using soft wood. The purpose of this layer is to act as a connecting element both for this particular panel and for its neighbors. The material for the bottom layer is plywood, as well as pine or spruce lamellas up to 4 mm thick.

The parquet board for laying goes on sale only after applying a special coating and impregnation to it, which protects it from rotting and the formation of fungus. Keep in mind: whether the board is multi-layered or massive, its service life depends not only on the production technology and storage rules, but also on the correct installation. You cannot influence the first and second in any way, but the third point can be easily controlled. Or even do the laying of the parquet board yourself.

But for such a flooring to be durable and serve you for a long time, it is not enough to be able to work well with your hands. It is necessary to carry out a certain kind preparatory work. It is also necessary to strictly comply with all conditions technological process. What points should be paid attention to first of all?

Firstly, inspect the base on which the parquet board will be laid. All sorts of cracks, crevices and indentations are unacceptable. The base must necessarily be flat and solid, and also without a significant difference in height. 2 mm per running meter is the maximum that can be allowed. A base that does not meet the requirements should be repaired or completely remade.
Secondly, the parquet board should "adapt" to your apartment - more precisely, to its microclimate. Therefore, after acquiring a board, it is not recommended to immediately begin work on laying it. Wait at least two days.
Third, an important condition for the successful laying of parquet boards is the level of humidity in the room. High humidity adversely affects this material, and therefore you should not lay parquet in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen.
Fourth, again about humidity. During operation, it is desirable to observe a certain level of it (from 35 to 65 percent). The temperature must be at least 18 degrees Celsius. Compliance with these conditions will allow the coating to become more durable and increase its service life.
And the last by list, but not by value. When laying a parquet board, in no case should you forget about the substrate and waterproofing. Moreover, the features of the premises and the foundation do not play a role here, this must be done in any case.

Also, one little tip: do not lay the parquet board perpendicular to the rays of light. In this case, shadows will be clearly visible at the joints.

How to lay parquet board in different ways

Well-known manufacturing companies (Barlinek, Tarkett, Kahrs and others) are constantly trying to improve their products. Moreover, they work not only on appearance products, but also methods that can greatly facilitate the installation process. All new lock systems are produced. There are several main types:

A connection considered classic when the spikes enter the grooves.
The planks are connected at an angle of 10-30 degrees, after which, by pressing the plates, they are fastened together.
This is a volumetric fixation system. There are several types of them, names and basic characteristics may not coincide, but the principle of connecting elements is the same. A "tongue" made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. Otherwise, it may just be an additional insert. Be that as it may, but thanks to such a fixation, the entire hitch becomes more rigid and durable, and the service life of the parquet increases. Also, this system prevents the divergence of the slats due to seasonal change environment.

Depending on which locking system is present on the products, the method of laying parquet boards is also chosen. When purchasing material for flooring, be sure to check if it is available detailed instructions for installation. If the product is of high quality, it must be attached to the packaging.

How to assemble a multi-layer wooden coating?

There are several methods most popular:

Laying parquet boards on logs.
Fastening with nails.
Laying on a rough wooden floor.
glue method.
A floating method in which parquet boards are connected with a lock.

The locking system has recently been used most often. This method of laying parquet boards is convenient for both large and small rooms. Glue, on the contrary, is used less and less in such works. The fact is that laying parquet in this way is a very laborious work, taking a lot of time and requiring perseverance.

Massive parquet is attached to the subfloor mainly with nails. But this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past. If you put parquet boards on logs, the distance between the latter should not exceed 30-40 cm, and this is not very profitable financially. And the process itself is also quite laborious. But one of the advantages of the floating method of laying parquet boards is that all the work can be done by hand.

To decide which styling method is best for you, let's take a closer look at some of them.

floating way

Many people have a poor idea of how to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor using this method. Let's sort it out in order. Initially, plywood sheets 20 mm thick are rigidly attached to the floor. A waterproofing is placed on top, which can be used as polyethylene in 200 microns. It is necessary that the entire surface be covered with waterproofing. To do this, polyethylene is overlapped, with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The joints are glued with tape. The film should also go onto the walls - by about 10-15 cm. Dense polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam or cork mats should be placed on top of the waterproofing. In the first case, the substrate, as well as waterproofing, is overlapped and glued with adhesive tape. In the second and third mats should be placed end to end, but apart.

Sheets of plywood should also be laid apart, leaving a distance of up to 5 mm between them. From the walls should be 10-15 mm. Parquet floors in a room can be installed in two ways: parallel and diagonal. In the latter case, the material will need a little more. Before you start laying parquet boards, make all the necessary calculations: how much material is needed, which direction will be optimal. It is necessary to plan everything so that the plates in the last row do not seem too narrow compared to the rest. Connect parquet boards with spikes and grooves intended for them. Remember that between the wall and the parquet you need to leave a distance for the expansion of the material by 1.5-3 cm.

When laying the first row of boards, remove the spikes from them directed towards the wall. Direct the spike of the next die at an acute angle into the groove of the previous one, lay the board on the base and use a hammer (through the bar!) to achieve a tight connection with the neighbor. Place wedges between the first row and the wall.

When laying the second row of parquet boards, offset the end seams by a third of the length of the plank. This is called side-by-side mounting. To start, make the first board in the second row shorter by 1/3. Assemble the row completely, then dock with the first. Also, insert the spikes of the boards into the grooves at an acute angle and seal the joint by tapping it through the bar with a hammer.

By the way, the step of the run can be chosen at your discretion. But if you decide to make it just like that, then the first board in the third row needs to be shortened already by 2/3 of the length. In the fourth row, all the dies are of their original size. In the future, follow the same cycle of laying parquet boards.

Most likely, you will have to saw off the last row of dies to the desired width. When doing this, do not forget to leave a distance between the parquet and the wall. After that, remove the wedges and attach the skirting boards, under which the expansion gaps will not be visible.

One important nuance. For greater strength of the joints, the grooves between the boards can be glued. But, on the other hand, if you need to replace one of the boards, this will cause certain difficulties.

Adhesive

With this method of laying parquet boards, you first need to firmly screw moisture-resistant plywood to the screed. Then, with a notched trowel, glue is applied to it, preferably two-component polyurethane. When working with glue, keep in mind that it is toxic, although it is completely safe for humans after drying. Small sheets of the substrate are laid apart on a concrete base. The distance between them and the walls should be no more than 5 mm. Further, all parquet boards are planted on the glue - according to the same technology as with the floating laying method.

Before starting work, it is best to draw a diagram, according to which in the future you will glue parquet boards to plywood. The difference from the previous laying method is that the boards are not assembled in rows, but are joined one at a time. Glue must be applied both to plywood and to dies, the grooves at the ends of the boards must also be filled with this compound.

Then we act according to the principle described earlier: we attach the board with the help of a lock to the previous one, align and compact it with a hammer and wooden block. We additionally strengthen the panels with pneumatic nails in the groove, but in such a way as not to interfere with the connection. Glue will appear on the surface, it should be removed immediately. We fill the distance between the walls and the parquet with cork. After that, we prime the entire surface of the floor, cover it with oil and wax or varnish. We attach skirting boards along the walls.

This method of laying parquet boards is mainly used for rooms with a large area.

With fasteners

How to properly lay a parquet board using this method? Just as with floating laying, waterproofing and insulation of the concrete screed is necessary. Boards are connected in the same way. The only difference is that you can put dies with a thickness of more than 20 mm. It is permissible to fix the parquet both to the wooden base lying on the logs, and to the logs themselves. If you decide to use the latter option, then keep in mind: the logs must be wide enough so that the joints of the parquet boards can easily fit in their middle. The optimal distance between the lags is from 30 to 40 cm.

They are attached to concrete base through the insulation strictly horizontally, using self-tapping screws with dowels. The dies are connected to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws, the length of which exceeds the thickness of the boards by 2-2.5 times. So that nothing interferes with the installation, they must be installed in the grooves of the boards at an angle of 45 degrees.

How to lay a parquet board with your own hands

To work, you need to have the following available:

Waterproofing film with a thickness of 200 microns.
Combined or coniferous PE substrate, 2-3 mm thick. Another one will do, but the manufacturer must be the same as that of the parquet.
A bar to compact the boards, a mallet.
Tool to fix joints (for laying parquet board with 5G locks).
A metal staple or wringer for laying the last row.
Adhesive sealant, carpentry or PVA.
Plastic wedges for gaps between parquet and walls.
Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
Construction pencil, tape measure and square.
Level and hygrometer.
Adhesive or reinforcing primer.
If necessary, then a notched trowel, screwdriver, air gun or hammer.

Foundation preparation

First you need to get rid of all the old foundations. Then take measurements and determine whether the floor needs to be leveled. If yes, then there are two options to prepare the surface for laying parquet boards:

Use gypsum or cement-gypsum self-leveling self-leveling floors.
Assemble a screed from plywood, chipboard or the like.

Having prepared the base for laying, check it for moisture using a hygrometer, and with a long rail (more than 2 m) - for evenness. Small imperfections can be filled with quick-drying mortars or cemented.

The next step is the primer:

If laying the parquet board will be done with glue, use adhesive compounds.
If you plan to use the floating method, you need strengthening mixtures.

Is the floor base wooden? Then you need to cut off all the bumps from it (you can use a parquet grinder). Fill the hollows with elastic putty. If the boards "walk", pull the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. If there are many defects, it will be easier to make a new screed from chipboard or plywood with a thickness of more than 16 mm. Treat the surface with an antifungal primer.

Preparation for work

Surface prepared. The next stage of work will be laying waterproofing and substrate material on it. Spread the film overlapping, the overlap should be 15-25 cm. Glue the joints with adhesive tape. Attach a substrate (sheet or roll) on top. Lay it upside down. If you are planning to glue the parquet board, this step should be skipped.

After purchasing the material, give it time to "get used" to the microclimate of the room, this usually takes from 24 to 36 hours. If a “warm floor” is installed in the apartment, then it would be good to turn on the heating system for two weeks, and turn it off 3-4 hours before the start of work. With this maneuver, an ideal climate for laying parquet boards is created and at the same time thermal damage to the final finish is prevented.

One important point. If, when opening packages with a parquet board, you find that some products are slightly different in color and texture, that's okay. Wood is a natural product, and therefore this sometimes happens. Turn this to your advantage by making an interesting pattern out of the boards.

Before starting work, be sure to draw up a diagram of the future installation, preferably on a scale. The last row should be at least 5 cm wide.

Floor covering installation

When laying parquet flooring using the floating method, start work from the longest wall, clockwise. Leave space around the perimeter of the room for expansion wedges. According to experts, it is better to do this after laying the first three rows of parquet: move the boards with the help of a bracket and insert wedges into the resulting gaps.

Next, at the boards in the first row, cut off the spikes directed towards the wall. Install the first tile in the corner and proceed with the assembly along the ends. If the edge plate is larger than necessary, cut it off. Start laying the second row from the rest of the lamella of the first. If you plan to lay a parquet board with a classic Click-lock, then after joining the boards with the butt, fasten them along the length, while certainly knocking them through the bar with a mallet or hammer.

By the way, working with Lock and 5G lock systems is much more convenient. All thanks to the ability to join them both along and across.

There are volumetric locks for which you do not need to customize plastic insert. Just click on the plates and you're done.

With the last row of dies, you will have to tinker a little. It is unlikely that they will fit perfectly in size, and therefore they will need to be cut. After that, the tiles are fastened at the ends and join the last row. Be sure to press the laid parquet boards with a metal bracket or wringers.

It happens that a pipe or something else interferes with the smooth laying of a parquet board. In this case, mark the cutting line on the plate, saw off a piece along it and drill a hole with a margin of 1–1.6 cm. Put the plank in the right place, apply an adhesive composition to the cut and glue it.

After the laying is completed, pull out the wedges and turn on the "warm floor" system (the temperature must be increased gradually). Fix the skirting boards and mount the door sills. By the way, the mandatory gaps in doorways- manufacturer's requirement.

As a final touch, it would be nice to treat the floor with special flooring products. The wax contained in these mixtures clogs the joints between the boards well.

How to lay a parquet board on a warm floor

The parquet floor itself has excellent thermal insulation properties, plus, the underlayment does not let the cold through. But sometimes additional heating is still required. In such cases, the parquet board is laid directly on the "warm floor".

True, not every system is suitable here. If there are no problems with water heating, then the electric floor is incompatible with the parquet board. Such a “warm floor” heats up too quickly, a sharp temperature drop occurs, as a result of which the locks of the tiles begin to crack.

Laying parquet tiles on the "warm floor" should be made only after it is turned off and cooled to room temperature. At the end of the work, the system can be turned on no earlier than a week later, and its temperature should be increased gradually, no more than 2-3 degrees per day. It is also very important that the floor is heated evenly, otherwise the parquet board may “lead”.

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