How to sheathe a metal staircase with wood. Finishing a metal staircase: the choice of materials. Installing additional items

To understand how to sheathe a metal staircase with wood with your own hands, you need to know the features of this work. They, in turn, depend on which option was chosen:

Partial cladding. In this case, wooden treads are attached to the metal steps, while the rest of the structure remains unchanged.
Full plating. The entire staircase is sheathed, including treads, risers, railings, under-stair space. The result of such work will be a staircase that looks no different from a wooden one, but at the same time has metal carcass.

How is the cladding done?

We have approached the most important task - the sheathing itself, which is carried out using a certain technology. The work consists of several stages:

Here it is necessary to decide what will be design, respectively, a choice is made in favor of a partial or full version of the skin.
Then carried out preparation of elements depending on the selected option. It is important to choose right stuff sheathing, which will meet the requirements of design, safety and duration of operation.
Next stage - fit selected array for frame dimensions.
And the final stage of work - directly sheathing. It can be done by strengthening the array on a metal frame using screws or other fasteners.

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Video: We start sheathing stairs with wood

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Sheathing the metal frame of the stairs with a tree with your own hands

DIY ladder holders

Holes and handles are decoration and safety.

How to sew a ladder with a tree

It protects against falling from a height, serves as a support. With a staircase, the staircase has a certain look, it attracts attention. To protect your staircase with your own hands, you need railings and posts. However, in addition to these two components, there are also several different factors to consider. The first time you believe in yourself - you can make a fence with your own hands, it will not be so difficult.

In this age of technology, what only masters could do before, now, as you wish, there can be a lot.

What should I do with stairs?

Do-it-yourself manufacturing and installation phases of handles:

Technical calculation of the stairs.

Make a drawing and calculation, take a ladder, if any.
Determine the number of escalators - you will have one or both sides of the flight.
This is necessary to calculate how much and what is needed. And also how to properly process and prepare the material for installing the fence.

Consider the height of the railing for the stairs, which is safe, about 1 meter.
Rail profiles should be forty-five millimeters. Considering columns as columns, the distance between them should be approximately one third of their height.
The railing lines must be configured to match the direction of the cursor. The cursor is calculated in such a way that the width of the path remains unchanged.

Select the material from which you will make the handrails. best material for making a fence with your own hands is the wood of trees different types at your discretion.
It could be:

ashes
pine
birch
other types of wood.

You can see the possibility of photos of such steps to finally figure out what kind of wood looks best for you.

Think about the properties of wood, life. If you understand metal and know how to work with it, you can make fake stairs. Remember that the fence must be strong and stable.

Decide on a fence design

You can choose the shape, color. Evolve where you start installing fences - not necessarily from the first step.
Think of the ending on the stairs.
It can be rough, like the artificial aging of a tree. You can create a perfectly smooth and uncluttered image with a fence. As well as beautifully curved, curved, carved stair railings.

You can create a drawing for the stairs yourself. It is appropriate to establish a figurative structure by sections.

Stairs can have a separate structure - stairs, rotating elements made of other materials or other shapes and sizes.
Take a look at a few different versions photos and indicate the type you can DIY.
In this way, you will give the staircase a unique and unique personality.

Prepare materials.
We have already figured out what to do with the stairs and what material. Before you begin, you must prepare the material yourself. The wood should be dried and treated in such a way that no pests will start to develop in the future, so that such adhesive materials are durable. If this metal fence, cover it with a special solution, avoid rust.

It is also helpful to prepare Additional materials, such as:

wood weapon varnish
color for metal handles
linseed oil
spot.

Prepare work tools.
To shine with our hands, we need the following tools:

building level
tree print
metal ruler
hammer
cleaning brushes
nails
screws

drilling
screwdriver
simple pencil
grinding machine
screwdriver
roulette
grinder with grinding wheel
drills for wood and metal.

Install and build a ladder structure.

To assemble the stairs, you need to prepare all the elements.
After drawing and your chosen plan, measure and cut out all the necessary components.
Make holes in the places where you plan to install.

We assemble the building - we place the bottom racks, in accordance with the drawing diagram, and then on top.
When installing the bottom substrates, it should be marked as a pencil, which should be the same as the landing angle.
Focus on the support legs, pay attention to the horizontal load, which should be at least one hundred kilograms. Support columns must be spaced at least ten centimeters apart.
The last step is to install the fence.
Connect the railing to the posts. Handle them if there are rough edges. Create your desired color according to the plan.

To build a fence you can see visual design assemblies.

You will see that making a fence with your own hands is not such a difficult question.

Finishing a metal staircase with wood - the nuances of the work

The purpose of this article, based on private experience, is to show one of the options for finishing the metal frame of the stairs - with a tree with your own hands. Our staircase design uses a metal frame welded from a channel and corners. The frame of the stairs was installed by builders under the guidance of a foreman. Since the skeleton of the staircase structure was already ready when buying the house, we decided to simply sew it up with wood, for this purpose we bought ready-made steps and risers in Epicenter.

(For sewing the turntable, the so-called furniture board 40mm thick bought there.)

We cut and fix the trim of the platform on the sides, so that the wallpaper does not get dirty with your feet.

The steps for the stairs have just been laid out on the metal frame of the stairs.

The uppermost riser was attached to the concrete floor with anchors.

The heads of the screws that are visible in the photo will be puttied in the future. In order to make it convenient to fasten the risers while standing on the stepladder from below, we pulled each riser to the wall with elastic bands.

Now one of the most difficult processes is to carefully trim each step and riser so that the gaps are minimal.

So, we have all the steps and risers installed.

We fastened them to the iron frame with reverse side using screws. When buying screws, carefully look at their quality and length so that they are no longer than the thickness of the steps and risers. In our case, the steps were 4 cm thick and the risers were 2 cm thick.

Then we figured out how many pillars and balusters we would need.

We got 8 pillars, as it was necessary to put the railings at the beginning and on the turns. We decided to put balusters one at a time, although two can be used if desired.

And these are the stair railings themselves.

Another of the difficult tasks was the question: how to close the edge of the parquet so that it looks beautiful?

We sheathe a metal staircase with a tree with our own hands

For this purpose, we purchased thin oak planks, with which we sealed the edge.

Then we calculated the distances at which to strengthen the balusters in a straight section.

Choosing visually, we settled on a value of 15 cm.

But if you install balusters directly on the parquet, then it doesn’t turn out beautifully. For this purpose, we have adapted a rail that is installed under the handrail.

Here we made a small mistake.

Puttyed and then decided to remove the excess with sandpaper. Then we realized that it is better to immediately wash off all the excess with a wet rag, since the putty is made on a water basis.

We decided to fasten the poles and balusters to the slats and first fasten them with screws hidden to the parquet.

The posts cover the screw heads during installation. The poles and balusters themselves are fixed to the bar with the help of studs, which are screwed in with a special key or by clamping it into a screwdriver chuck. In the photo for example, a twisted hairpin and a whole one are shown. A hole of 8 mm was drilled under the studs, so the thickness of the stud itself is 8 mm

Here is the first bolted post.

To fix the railing enclosing the opening above the stairs, first a pillar was bolted to the wall with an anchor, and then the railing was fixed, which closed the anchor head.

We fasten the balusters to the railing.

From above, the railings are attached to liquid nails.

The top part of the fence is ready.

Then we fasten the balusters to the steps and mark the angle and cut line along the stretched thread.

Since the balusters screwed in this way along the upper edge are not yet on the same line, it will not work to leave the line with a dyed thread. Later, they are wounded when they are screwed to the railing. After the cut lines have been drawn, we unscrew the balusters, cut them off and twist them back.

We fasten the railings on top of the balusters and the railings themselves on them.

After all, we cover the stairs with three layers of varnish and wait until it dries.

As a result, we have a beautiful staircase - with our own hands and enjoyed the result.

The following tools were used to work on the stairs: an electric saw, an electric jigsaw, a drill (not a perforator-drill), a perforator, wood drills with a diameter of 1.5 and 7 mm. With a drill with a diameter of 1.5 mm, holes were drilled in the steps in order to make it easier to screw in the screws.

Sooner or later, but any owner of the apartment comes to the conclusion that the insulation of the front door is a necessity. Covering the door with leatherette with your own hands will help solve several important problems - these are its thermal and sound insulation and decorative design.

The fact that the door should be insulated usually comes in the cold season, when, it would seem, a draft begins to blow into very small cracks. But is it worth waiting for winter? Wouldn't it be better to do something like this beforehand?

When deciding on the transformation of the door leaf, you can turn to yourself easy way sheathing - even stretching of leatherette, or you can use more complex options when multiple pieces of material are used.

In any case, all the nuances need to be thought out in advance and prepare the necessary tools and materials for work.

Preparing for the door trim

So that nothing distracts the master directly in the process of work, you need to do the following in advance:

1. Prepare a sketch of the future skin, if it has any pattern. This may be a carefully crafted drawing or, in case of emergency, even a simple pencil sketch.

2. Based on the drawing, you can make a list necessary materials that will be needed for work:

Leatherette or artificial leather can be purchased at specialized stores, where a large selection of this material is presented. There you can choose it not only by thickness, but also by color and texture pattern on the surface. Standard Width leatherette 1100 ÷ 1400 mm - it is just right for the door leaf in the apartment. 200 ÷ 250 mm are added to the length of the door leaf.

If the door is sheathed in a private house, which has two leaves, then to the dimensions obtained during measurement, you need to add 100 ÷ 150 mm, both in length and in width of the material.

Leatherette is also needed for the manufacture of rollers framing the door leaf. They are strips of material that have a length equal to the height of the door, and a width of 130 ÷ 170 mm. These elements will need three pieces.

If the door leaf is sheathed with individual elements of leatherette, then more will be needed. When calculating the material in this case, it is necessary to take into account its inward bending on each individual element by 50 ÷ 100 mm from all sides.

Another option for sheathing with a pattern can be to remove it with separate strips of leatherette. Their number is calculated depending on the selected decorative design.

Insulating material will help to achieve thermal and sound insulation.

Sheet foam rubber is well suited for insulation and sound insulation.

For these purposes, use a dense synthetic winterizer, felt or foam rubber. The material must have a thickness of at least 10 ÷ 25 mm, depending on its density and on the expected volume (embossment) of the pattern, which will be displayed using banners or decorative nails.

If it is insulated, then it is necessary to purchase foam sheets of the required thickness.

In the case when it is planned to use nails covered with leatherette or faux leather, then you should choose the color of their hats so that the whole composition looks harmonious.

The skin will look more presentable if the nail heads are large enough and the same color as the canvas of the entire skin.

Another option could be nails with metal heads, repeating the color and texture of the material of handles and locks.

To finish a metal door, you will need glue, since leatherette and a thin layer of insulation will be glued to its front side. For this purpose, the universal "Moment" or "88" glue is well suited.
For the manufacture of sealing rollers, it is best to purchase a ready-made round insulation with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm. It is sold by the meter in hardware stores. Such material will give the roller a neat, uniform rounded shape.

3. For work, you also need to prepare some tools:

A small hammer for driving nails.
Stapler with staples for fixing the material to the surface before driving decorative nails. Optimal size staples - 8 ÷ 10 mm.
Scissors and a construction knife for cutting and cutting materials.
To dismantle the locks and handles and then install them back to their original place, you will need a screwdriver or a screwdriver with different nozzles (bits).
It will be nice to have pliers and a nail puller on hand, they can be useful for removing old trim and removing nails that have entered the door leaf incorrectly.

4. Having bought all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin the preparatory work.

First, from the door you need to remove all installed on it elements - locks, handles and viewing eye.
If the door will be sheathed, on which there is already an old finishing material, it must be removed. The nailed material can be bent with a nail puller, separating the leatherette from the surface, and then, hooking the nails with the tool, carefully remove the canvas completely.

If the insulation is not glued to the door, the old trim will come off easily. The thin layer of material remaining on the surface does not fit the new finish.

Further, some craftsmen remove the door from its hinges and, for the convenience of further work, lay it on several chairs or on a fairly large table. Before removing the door from the hinges, it is imperative to make lines on the door leaf along the contour of the door frame.
In most cases, the skin is carried out in its vertical position, without removing it from the hinges.

Leatherette door trim process

As you know, the door is usually sheathed on both sides - from the outside and the inside, there are some differences in these processes that you need to know about when starting work. In addition, there is a significant difference in the technology of finishing wooden and metal doors.

And, of course, there are different ones that also need to be considered before starting work.

Paneling inside a wooden door

Getting started, you need to immediately pay attention to where the door opens - towards the entrance or into the apartment, since the location and size of the rollers will depend on this.

This publication will consider the option when the door opens inside the apartment.

The first step is the installation of the sealing rollers. They are made from prepared strips of leatherette and ready-made foam rollers or strips of other insulating material.

Leatherette is folded in half and a strip of insulation is put inside. Then, a roller is placed around the perimeter of the door, so that it protrudes 4 ÷ 7 mm beyond the canvas, since it should cover the gap between the jamb door frame and the door that is formed after it is closed. On the hinge side, the roller should completely cover the door jamb. The roller is fixed with stapler and staples, starting at the top right corner. From there they go to the upper left corner, then frame them sides. It is fixed to the bottom part last.

The next step is cutting out the insulation. The size of the cut strip should be 8 ÷ 10 mm smaller than the door leaf.

It is also fixed with brackets to the door plane, leaving 20 ÷ 30 mm free along the edges so that you can wrap a decorative one between the insulation and the door. material - leatherette.

Next, you need to correctly place the main canvas of leatherette. The main thing is to prevent distortions, otherwise the work will look sloppy.

When installing the main upholstery, it is very important not to make a mistake with the exact direction of the leatherette strip and its uniform tension.

First, the top of the canvas is fixed. It is bent under the insulation and nailed with decorative nails, placing them at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from each other.

After the top edge is fixed and the correct direction is checked again, the left side is nailed, and then the right. In the course of fastening, the material is stretched. The bottom edge of the material is nailed last.

Then, it is very important to precisely mark and cut the holes for the locks and the peephole.
If there is a desire to make a drawing on the surface, then you first need to mark it, and then fill the markings with decorative carnations, starting from the center of the canvas. In this case, you need to try not to pull the leatherette too much so that sagging does not appear.

Video: a lesson on sheathing a wooden door from the inside

Wooden door - outer skin

The door trim, which opens inside the apartment, from the side of the entrance is produced as follows:

Before starting work, you need to close the door, and outline the opening of the door frame on the door leaf. This line will determine the location of the trim on the door leaf. If leatherette is nailed to the entire surface, then both the door and the lock will not close.
The insulation is cut out 10 mm smaller than the outlined area, and fixed with brackets.

Further, with tucking behind the insulation, leatherette is stuffed along the marked line, in the same order as on the inside of the door - first from above, then on the sides. The bottom edge remains free for now - it will be attached later.

In this case, the insulation roller is fixed to the outside of the door frame jamb from three sides, and it is not installed on the threshold. This element in a fixed form should close the gaps, being on the door leaf by 20 ÷ 25 mm. But the keyhole must be free, and this must be foreseen in advance.
The bottom roller should not be made voluminous, as it will simply be erased over time, and will look sloppy.

It is fixed along the bottom of the door itself, and its edge should not go beyond the marked line by a single millimeter, since in this case the door will not be able to close. This element, when closing the door, should fit snugly against the sill from above, that is, as it were, on it.

On the roller nailed to the door, the lower part of the main fabric of leatherette is pulled and nailed, or, as shown in the photo, you can hide the lower edge in the fixed roller.
Further, holes are made in the leatherette sheathing for door accessories - locks, peepholes and handles. They need to be cut very carefully, without expanding more than necessary.

Video: how to sheathe a wooden door with leatherette from the outside

Metal door - leatherette finish

IN last years in apartments of high-rise buildings, a second door made of metal is increasingly being installed, in addition to the wooden one. It is good if it is possible to immediately purchase insulated and, but very often it consists only of a metal sheet and a frame made of a corner or a profile pipe. In this case, the owner of the apartment picks up the tools and independently brings the door into proper shape.

The inner and outer sides of the metal door leaf also have their own characteristics in their sheathing.

The inside of a metal door

If an unsightly metal frame without insulation and decorative materials, this can be easily fixed by installing foam sheets of suitable thickness and covering it all with a decorative panel. To work, you will need somewhat different from the skin wooden door materials.

Styrofoam with a thickness equal to the depth of the frame frame.
Mounting foam will be needed to seal the seams between the installed foam and the metal frame.
Wooden slats for fixing on inner sides frames - they will be needed as a basis for attaching a decorative panel.
Self-tapping screws and drills for metal - they will drill holes in the corners ( profile pipe) for screwing wooden slats to a metal frame.
Decorative nails for fixing leatherette on the plywood surface.
Wood screws for screwing plywood sheet to wooden slats.
A sheet of plywood, in shape and area equal to the door frame, not more than 10 mm thick.
Decorative leatherette and a thin sheet of foam rubber, 10 ÷ 15 mm thick.
Glue or double-sided tape to secure the insulation to the plywood.

The work on finishing the inner surface of the door is as follows:

Wooden slats are screwed to the inner ribs of the metal frame. Needs to be drilled first through holes through rails and metal frame elements.

After fixing the rails, gaps may form between them and the metal sheet, which will become cold bridges, so they are closed mounting foam. It will contribute, in addition, to the rigidity of the fastening of the rails.

Further, a foam plastic is installed between the fixed and insulated rails, around which foam is also passed. Such processing will also help to securely fix the foam in the cells and close the last paths of possible cold penetration.

On the plywood sheet, you need to mark the location of the wooden slats in the frame, since they will have to be screwed to them.
If you need to hide the caps of the self-tapping screws under the cladding, then the plywood must be screwed to its sheathing.
First, the sheet is twisted to the middle rails, so that all edges remain free to put leatherette behind them.
Foam rubber is fixed on the installed plywood with glue, or better - with double-sided masking tape.
Leatherette is stretched from above, tucked over the edges of the plywood, and in the corners and along the edges in the middle of the sheet it is screwed through with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are sunk into the plywood. The resulting holes can be carefully sealed with a piece of material, and next to drive a carnation with a decorative hat.
Further, leatherette is stretched and nailed around the entire perimeter with carnations. Since the nails are quite hard to drive into plywood, you need to choose durable, made of high-quality metal that will not bend.
Thus, the decorative panel will be well fixed to the frame.
Then, on it it is necessary to outline location lock, cut leatherette and insulation, and then carefully drill holes in plywood.

It must be said that instead of plywood and leatherette, you can use laminated lining to decorate the inner surface of the door. Its installation is carried out from below and gradually rise to the top, and the sides of the lining are closed with a special corner.

The outer side of the metal door

When decorating the outer side of a metal door, for laying under leatherette, you can use not too thick felt, which is glued to a metal surface.

The insulation is cut out less than the size of the door leaf by 7 ÷ 10 mm, and the leatherette is larger than this size by 60 ÷ 80 mm. This extra section will go to the edge of the bend on the other side of the sheet.
A polymer adhesive is applied to the surface of the metal sheet in strips.
Next, a heater is applied to it and pressed. It is necessary to give time for the glue to grab and dry.
Leatherette is stretched on top of the insulation, bent over the edges of the metal door panel and glued on the other side. It is best to use a quick-drying universal adhesive for this purpose.

First, the top edge of the material is glued. Further, it is stretched and fixed to the side of the door. When excess material is formed on the inversions, it is best to cut it off, otherwise it may interfere with the free closing of the door leaf.

If the finishing material is very dense, and the fold is too thick at the corners, then it is better to cut off some of the leatherette in these places.

If you do all the work slowly, then the door will turn out neat and respectable.

At the end, door panels are installed and screwed onto the door. accessories - locks with handles and a peephole, if provided for installation.

Video: finishing a metal door with leatherette

"Carriage" trim

"Carriage" sheathing or screed is quite popular, since the door after it looks aesthetically pleasing and respectable. However, not every apartment owner can afford this, since the work on its implementation is quite painstaking and requires skill.

"Carriage" trim looks very impressive

This cladding is done in two different ways- from solid material or from pre-cut pieces of leatherette. Both methods are risky, since in both the first and second versions the material can be damaged, and the door is not sheathed if there is no experience in performing such a “filigree” work.

... however, not everyone can do such a difficult job.

Therefore, for starters, you can practice and sheathe in this way, for example, the surface of a stool. Any fabric can be used for training.

For all the work to be successful, you need to carry out a number of preparatory activities. It is very important not to neglect the careful markup - only in this case you can get geometrically even shapes of squares or rhombuses.

For marking, you need to take a sheet of thin plywood, the same size as the door leaf. It must be drawn into even squares or rectangles.
At the intersections of the lines, round holes are marked and then drilled so that they form rhombuses or squares with their corners.
Plywood is superimposed on a foam rubber mat and through the holes on it, places are marked where decorative nails will be hammered.

Preliminary marking for "carriage" upholstery

Further, the marked foam rubber is transferred to a wooden base. If it is too thick, then round holes can be cut into it for driving nails.
A stapler is passed around the holes or drawn circles, nailing the insulation to the base and outlining the recesses.
Leatherette is drawn from the wrong side into even squares, which should be 8 ÷ 10 mm larger on each side than the figures drawn on the foam rubber. These extra millimeters are needed to bend the edges of the material when it is nailed.
Then, the material is cut into lined fragments, and you can proceed to fix it on the door leaf.
The pieces are superimposed on the foam rubber according to the markup and nailed. You can first outline them with a stapler, and then nail them with decorative carnations.

Each fragment is stacked and fastened separately - extreme accuracy is needed

It is necessary to ensure that the pieces of leatherette overlap each other in one direction, otherwise the harmony of the pattern will be disturbed.
Without proper experience, the work will seem rather complicated and long, however, if you have patience, you can gradually complete it successfully.

It is much more difficult to derive a carriage pattern from a solid canvas, since it is very difficult to accurately measure and capture the same strips that will serve as a foam rubber screed between the nails.

Prices for various types of door upholstery kits

door upholstery kit

Video: one of the options for the "carriage" door trim leatherette

There are other ways to upholster the door using thin strips of leatherette or fishing line, but in order to achieve the desired success, first, in all cases, careful marking of the door leaf is necessary.

If this work is done independently, then not only will there be experience and skill in its implementation, but also a significant amount will be saved. Therefore, if there is a desire to try yourself in this kind of wallpaper art, then it is worth taking a chance by training to start on small planes.

TOP-12 best entrance door manufacturers

	Name	Rating
Best Budget Entry Doors
#1	Became	⭐ 100 / 100
#2	Neman	⭐ 99 / 100
#3	Outpost	⭐ 98 / 100
#4	Bravo	⭐ 97 / 100
#5	Groff	⭐ 96 / 100
The best elite entrance doors
#1	Torex	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Elbor	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Dierre	⭐ 97 / 100
#4	Fortus	⭐ 96 / 100
#5	Legrand	⭐ 95 / 100
#6	Bastion	⭐ 94 / 100
#7	guardian	⭐ 93 / 100

Became

Entrance doors under the Stal brand perfectly combine affordability and excellent quality. The manufacturer managed to achieve balance in different parameters due to a complex design that provides high strength. Reinforced doors with armored inserts are made to order. System protection is provided to prevent unauthorized opening. The lineup of Steel is constantly updated. The customer can choose from powder coated, wood, veneer or laminated panel finishes. The catalog has both models classic design and exclusive designs.

a wide range of;
value for money.

budget doors are weak.

Outpost

To compete successfully in the domestic market, Russian company Outpost had to start manufacturing doors in China. Since 2009, the products have become in great demand among Russians, and sales volumes have reached 500,000 doors per year. In general, ordinary users are satisfied with the products. They celebrate good quality assembly, rich the lineup, developed service network. Not devoid of doors and individual shortcomings. The most unpleasant of them is the appearance on the market of low-quality fakes.

affordable price on prestigious models;
wide service network;
rich range.

counterfeit products appeared;
poor sound insulation in budget models;
Fittings fit only original.

Bravo

Today, the manufacturer boasts a model range of 350 units. Here the buyer has a lot to choose from. The catalog contains the most modern views doors, from veneered models to 3D-Graf finishes. Doors also differ structurally, in the range there are sliding, folding and special models. Door leafs under such brands as Bravo, Bravo Lux, Groff and Belarusian Doors are also widely represented on the market. All products are made from environmentally friendly materials, they meet the stringent requirements of international standards.

a wide range of products;
affordable price;
a wide variety of designs and finishes.

thin metal;
bad soundproofing.

Entrance door Bravo

Groff

Groff entrance doors are produced by the domestic manufacturer Bravo. They are a premium line. For the manufacture of canvases, thick steel is used, fire-resistant Knauf mineral wool as a heater. Structurally, the doors are reinforced with stiffeners, equipped with reliable locks. As a result, the products correspond to the fourth class of burglary resistance. Entrance doors of this series are not only distinguished by strength and durability. They have exceptionally high aesthetic properties. For decoration, the manufacturer used a wide range of decorative panels.

massiveness and good quality;
good heat and sound insulation;
anti-slip pins.

warped after six months of operation;
high price.

Entrance door Groff

Torex

Torex entrance doors are manufactured in accordance with the most advanced developments. Today the company boasts a wide distribution network in the CIS. Production facilities are now fully loaded, and the annual production of doors has reached 10,000 units. The manufacturer does not stop there, new developments appear on the market with enviable constancy. It is possible to ensure maximum strength and reliability of products through the use of two steel sheets. The role of the base is played by a one-piece bent profile 2 mm thick. Designers from Italy often take part in the design of doors.

no models available.

Dierre

Italian door manufacturer Dierre needs no introduction. The products of this company are known in different countries world, as evidenced by the annual sales of 200 thousand products. In Russia, production facilities have been created that provide the domestic market with products with the Dierre trademark. The company independently develops new designs, introducing the latest achievements in the field of locking. So, "smart" entrance doors are equipped with a system remote control, the role of the key is played by a chip with 128-bit encryption. A solid design is considered a chip of Italians. Under the chosen style, unique fittings are also made.

innovative approach;
unique design;
a large assortment.

there is no choice of accessories;
high price.

Fortus

Door blocks Fortus favorably differ from competitors in their design. They resemble the famous Lego toy, allowing the customer to assemble on their own suitable model. The choice is given the type of door (single- or double-leaf, combined), fittings, locking mechanism. The consumer determines the number of locks, the degree of secrecy, the color of the canvas, the shape of the handles, the method of finishing. Thanks to the extensive Fortus catalog, the total number of variants reaches four figures. The manufacturer goes to meet its customers, making entrance doors of non-standard sizes in accordance with the proposed project. When creating door blocks, only quality materials, as well as reliable locks from Cisa, Esety, Mul-T-Lock and Mottura.

quality assembly;
you can realize any idea;
smooth move.

there is no choice of accessories.

Legrand

Original quality finish entrance doors Legrand was to the taste of domestic consumers. As finishing material the manufacturer used MDF panels, which are processed on modern CNC machines. Used to increase service life polymer coating, protecting the canvas from atmospheric influences. A wide range of colors adds variety to the range. Some collections are getting off natural wood, which gives the doors an aristocratic and exclusivity. Buyers have a wide choice, from basic equipment to modified equipment. For easy running door hinges equipped with bearings.

original finish;
a diverse range of models;
hinges on bearings.

unreliable protection against corrosion;
bad soundproofing.

Bastion

One of the flagships in the production of entrance doors is the Bastion brand. Products are made according to the standard scheme, first a frame is formed from a square metal profile. Then steel sheets are welded to it. The void is filled with basalt wool, which, in addition to good insulating properties, has fire resistance. When choosing a model, the buyer is given the opportunity to independently determine the type of anti-burglary system and anti-removable loops. The finish can also be changed according to the client's requests. Glass or wooden elements, as well as forged inserts, are capable of decorating the door.

high build quality;
a wide range in different price segments;
beautiful finish.

unreliable fittings;
not the most efficient service.

With the help of metal doors, people have learned to protect themselves from thieves. But it turns out that these reliable doors themselves steal. They steal heat from apartments. Through the gap between the door and the jamb, as much heat escapes as it would come out through a quarter of your window. Plus, a metal door, unlike wood, is itself a very good conductor of heat. The solution to the problem is simple and has long been known - interior upholstery.

We sheathe the entrance metal door.

To upholster, sheathe a metal door you will need:

plywood;
epoxy adhesive;
a strip of leatherette 10 cm wide and the length of the entire door;
construction stapler;
scissors;
foam rubber 2 cm thick and 10 cm wider than the door leaf;
batting.

The upholstery of a metal door is a little more complicated than a wooden one. After all, sheathing material must be fastened with nails. You can't drive nails into metal. Therefore, from the very beginning, take pieces of plywood and glue them to the door. It is desirable to paste over the entire plane with plywood. Use epoxy glue.
After gluing, leave the door alone for about a day. You don't have to worry about the beauty of plywood. When all the work is done, the plywood will not be visible.
When the plywood is glued, work directly on the upholstery. The gap between the jamb and the door leaf must be closed with a roller. This is the main element of the upholstery.
Make a blank for the roller. First, take a strip of leatherette 10 cm wide and the length of the entire door. Fold it inside out and nail it to the door with small nails every 10-15 cm or secure with a construction stapler. To keep the leatherette from bulging, cut it with scissors next to the door hinges.
When the roller blank is ready, secure the packing. Use foam rubber 2 cm thick and 10 cm wider than the door leaf. Place two layers of batting on top of the foam rubber. Nail it all over the plane too. Now it's time to apply dermatin.
Leatherette needs to be tailored with a small margin, 3 cm from all sides. Start nailing from the center. First from above, then from below. Leatherette material during installation should be pulled as tightly as possible. When you grabbed the leatherette fabric from the top and bottom, a crease should appear. This indicates that you have tensioned the material correctly. Then the upholstery is fixed with simple furniture nails around the entire perimeter.
Your roller should be filled with batting. Take the rest of the batting and twist it into a tube. Place a tube of batting around the perimeter of the door and wrap it into a blank for the roller. Immediately nail the edge of the workpiece to the door.
The roller is ready. Can do fastening door handle and door peephole. That's all, now it will be easier to upholster or sheathe a metal door, knowing how.

You can make a decorative design of the facade of the building using various materials, which are made for the purpose of external wall decoration. Popular external coatings are: plaster, brick, stone, siding, suspended structures.

The most unpretentious and at the same time durable material is siding. The prefabricated structure of various kinds of panels is a decorative design of the walls, it is durable and environmentally friendly.

Panels can be made of metal (or steel), PVC, ceramic, acrylic.

In this article, we will tell you how to sheathe a house with metal siding with your own hands.

For proper installation of metal siding, you must first prepare the walls: clean the debris from them, close up the cracks (if any), cover with a primer mixture. Inspection of the walls is important: you should check the perpendicularity of the corners, the verticality and horizontality of the wall line (check by level and plumb).

At the stage preparatory work the markup should be correctly applied: the quality of the installation of the metal cladding depends on how correctly it is done.

In addition, it is important to properly prepare the cladding material itself: it is necessary to cut and cut the panels for further work.

Metal sheets are covered with a protective foam, which must be removed before starting work. If the panel with the protective film is left in the sun, it will be quite difficult to remove it, because under the action sun rays the film adheres even more to the surface.

house with metal siding

Siding kit

In addition to the main coating - metal siding panels - required to purchase supplies for complete registration cladding:

Cornice planks. Necessary for the design of window and doorways, as well as for the design of panel joints;
window slats. For the design of slopes of openings and windows;
outside corners. For the design of external corners;
internal corners. For the design of internal docking corners of panels;
starting bar. To create a bottom support and guide under the siding panels;
finishing bar. For the design of the top (finish) panel;
spotlights. For decoration of the eaves of the facade and overhangs;
connecting strips. For the design of docking adjacent strips;
J-bar. For decoration of windows and doorways.

NOTE!

When purchasing siding panels, you should immediately purchase components. It is recommended that all materials be chosen from the same manufacturer: in this case, there will be a complete match of the elements in terms of fasteners and a complete match in color.

If you take additional elements from other manufacturers, then the color, size may not match.

Metal siding is divided into the following types:

Equipment

Instrument preparation

Despite the fact that the installation of metal siding is done manually and does not require special equipment, necessary tools still need to stock up:

Metal shears (or metal saw) for cutting panels;
puncher for making mounting holes (or punch);
a screwdriver for screwing in self-tapping screws;
hammer (in case of using nails for fastening);
nozzle on a drill for screwing in self-tapping screws with a seal;
tape measure (preferably fabric, so that the metal tape does not damage the panel coating);
level (preferably laser or other long);
a plumb line for tracking the verticality of walls and battens;
square (if possible wooden or plastic).

You should also stock up on protective equipment: glasses, gloves. It is necessary to purchase self-tapping screws and a small can of paint, similar in color to the panels, to paint over accidentally damaged parts of the material.

CAREFULLY!

Do not use a grinder for cutting metal panels siding: the tool can damage the protective polymer layer, which will lead to corrosion of the material.

Tools

Wall cladding for siding

Facing panels should be mounted on a pre-installed crate. The crate can be made of metal profiles or wooden beams.

If wooden guides are used, they should be prepared: dried, treated with special agents against the formation of mold, fungus, beetles and covered with protective agents against moisture.

Under metal siding, a metal profile is most often used.: it more reliably withstands the load (metal siding has sufficient weight), is durable, and also does not require additional processing.

For timber crates, use bars with a section of 5x5 cm. It is permissible to make a metal crate from a metal profile, which is used for the installation of drywall.

The installation of the crate begins with the lower and upper rails, as well as from the corners.

The direction of the frame lines for siding is determined in accordance with the laying of the panels: at vertical arrangement panels, the guides are fixed horizontally and vice versa: when laying the panels horizontally, the lathing is performed vertically. The step of the crate is recommended to be performed from 30 to 50 centimeters.

Around the windows, bars (or metal profiles) are mounted close to the window. In a similar way, a crate is made around the doorways.

crate

Waterproofing, vapor barrier, wall insulation

Under the metal siding, a waterproofing layer is mounted on the insulation: water that falls under the roof ridge in the form of snow or rain flows down the walls.

At the same time, getting on the waterproofing layer, it goes down to the foundation and into drainage system.At the same time, the waterproofing layer protects the insulation, it also does not prevent the escape of vapors from the side of the room.

In the absence of insulation, it is still necessary to lay waterproofing under metal siding.

Along with the waterproofing layer under the insulation, it is recommended to lay a layer of vapor barrier to remove wet vapors from the side of the building and protect the insulation from them.

In cases where the building is built of materials with vapor-tight properties, vapor barrier is not laid. But in this case, it is contraindicated to produce insulation from the inside: there is a high probability of wetting the insulation.

Under metal siding, mineral wool or glass wool is most often used as an insulating layer.: they insulate well, are good sound insulators.

The insulation is tightly laid between the guides of the battens over the entire area of the facade without gaps between the joints. Installation is carried out on a vapor barrier membrane. A waterproofing film is attached on top. The next step is to install the siding.

vapor barrier

Installing the starter siding strip

Before starting laying the main siding sheets, it is necessary to install the starting strip. To do this, determine its location.

The starting bar should be 40 centimeters above the bottom horizontal line of the building. For an even fastening of the starting strip, a line should be drawn around the entire perimeter of the building on which the starting strip will be attached.

To fasten the bar, attach it to the intended line with the upper edge and fix it with self-tapping screws in the wall. This option is suitable for a wooden wall.

If the walls are concrete or brick, then, having attached the plank to the intended line, you should mark the attachment points and drill holes for the dowels, and then fasten the plank with self-tapping screws by screwing them into the dowel.

When attaching the starting strip between the ends, a gap of several millimeters should be made to prevent deformation of the coating.

The step of fastening the starting strip should be up to 40 mm.

Installing the starting bar

Installation of internal and external corners

Any angles must be set in strict accordance with the vertical line. If the angle deviates even by a few degrees, then the whole structure will be uneven and incorrect.

When installing a corner (internal or external), you should step back from the top edge of the facade about six millimeters and down from the starting strip - about 8 mm.

In order to evenly fix the corner bar, it should be attached to the attachment point, fixed strictly in vertical position first, on the two upper self-tapping screws (not tightly), and then screw the rest of the fasteners in sequence from the bottom.

Fasten the corner elements with self-tapping screws should not be tight enough (leaving a gap of 1-2 mm).

If you screw in the screws very tightly, the metal sheet may subsequently deform.

If it is required to lengthen the corner element, then an overlap of 2.5 centimeters is made by superimposing the upper part on the lower one. Docking feature for all corner parts - making a docking seam on the same level.

Setting obtuse corners

H-profile installation

H-profile for metal siding is an element that serves as a design for the docking points of the main cladding panels.

Installation of the H-profile is not difficult: the main thing is to correctly calculate the location of its location.

Installation is carried out similarly to the corner elements: first, the upper self-tapping screws are attached, then other self-tapping screws are screwed in along the entire perforation in 4-cm increments. In this case, it is necessary to indent above the eaves by a few millimeters and step back down from the starting strip - 6 mm.

To lengthen the H-profile, the profiles are overlapped (by 2.5 cm the upper part overlaps the lower one). Docking of profiles is recommended to be carried out at the same level so as not to disturb the decorative design.

H-connector installation

How to bypass window and door openings

J-profile is used to design window and door openings. You can use special platbands.

The depth of the location of window openings (including doorways) can be different, so the installation is done in different ways.

Windows that are recessed into the wall are designed similarly to the corners.

If windows and doorways are located on the same line with the wall, then the elements intended for this - aprons - should be used for their design.

Installation of the apron starts from the bottom of the window recess. Next, the side parts are attached. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the side elements should be located on top of the bottom bar. The top bar should overlap the side elements.

NOTE!

When using a J-profile, the installation is overlapped. With this fastening, two side strips should be used, as well as the top and bottom.

Without decorative design of openings (both window and door openings), a mark is made on the profile, located at a distance equal to two lengths of the width and height of the opening.

Doorways are made in a similar way.

Installation of window openings

How is siding installed

In order for the lining not to deform, and the panels to hold securely and firmly, during installation, you should be guided by some fastening rules:

The self-tapping screw should be fastened with a gap of up to two millimeters to ensure free expansion of the material. In this case, deformation of the sheets can be avoided;
rubber washers should be placed under the caps of the screws;
self-tapping screws should be used, which are treated with a coating that protects the hardware from corrosion;
fasten the panels to each other by means of specially designed locks that snap into place, while the seams become airtight;
the fastening step of the elements should be no more than 40 centimeters.

In addition to reliable fastening of panels in the area of \u200b\u200bcorners, window and door openings, it is advisable to put insulation in order to prevent wet vapors from entering the structure.

Proper fastening

Laying siding panels

Installation of panels, regardless of direction, starts from the corner. The first panel must be brought around the corner and inserted with the end part into the starting strip.

An opening is cut out under the windows and the panels are installed sequentially in rows.

This is how the entire front part of the siding is laid out to the penultimate row. Next, the finishing bar is mounted.

Laying the last row and finishing

After completing the laying of the penultimate row, the finishing bar should be further fixed. From the edge of the bar, the distance to the last row of siding panels is measured. The strip should be bent so that it fits into the lock on the bottom of the panel.

In this way, the entire last row of coating on the facade is made out. Further, if necessary, mount the panels on the gables.

Installation of finishing strips

Conclusion

Thus, the installation of metal siding is carried out quite quickly and reliably. The quality of the cladding also depends on how correctly the material, components are selected and how correctly they are fixed. In addition, the installation instructions for all parts of the structure must be followed.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install metal siding:

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Stairs in a residential building should be, above all, strong and comfortable. At all times, metal or concrete was considered the standard of reliability, but both of these materials, in the vast majority of cases, need cladding, and here wood is the best fit. A staircase on a metal frame sheathed with wood, as well as its concrete counterpart, radically change the design of the room, adding notes of home warmth and comfort.

Openwork forged metal structures or steps, finished natural marble, it is certainly beautiful and prestigious. But such stairs are considered perhaps the most traumatic. They are well suited for public buildings, a residential building involves the use of a safer and softer cladding, which is wood.

What tree to use

The first thing to start with before sheathing a staircase with wood is the choice of wood species. Natural array is not only beautiful and warm, but in the case of a metal base, it is also excellent sound insulation.

When the glue grabs, you can proceed with the installation of the stage itself. Everything is simple here, the board is laid on the substrate and is attracted from below with self-tapping screws.

In order for the self-tapping screws to enter easily, you need to pre-drill small diameter holes for them. The mounting technology of the risers exactly repeats the fastening of the steps.