Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands - the choice of material and the sequence of work. Proper insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside with your own hands Material for warming the bath

All the advantages of a bath may be unattainable if, at the stage of its finishing, the issue of internal insulation was not worked out carefully enough. Even with proper construction according to a time-tested project, the walls of the bath without additional thermal insulation will not be able to retain heat acceptably. And this means a decrease in comfort during bath procedures, and an increase in the cost of kindling. Meanwhile, there are many options how to avoid unacceptable heat losses.

The better to insulate the bath from the inside

What materials to use for internal insulation of the bath? The longest in the practice of building baths are used natural materials, which have been available throughout the history of the existence of such structures. Our ancestors often insulated the inner surfaces of the bath walls with improvised materials: hemp hemp, linen tow, moss, etc. All of the above is used today, because. natural materials have a very significant advantage over other thermal insulation: they are absolutely environmentally friendly.

However, natural insulation has some features that significantly reduce their attractiveness. Firstly, the process of finishing the bath with natural thermal insulation is a very, very laborious process. Even with all the simplicity of the technology, caulking a bath with moss or tow will take an excessive amount of time.

Secondly, natural materials are attractive not only to the owner of the bath. Birds and small rodents love to take them away for their own needs, and insects can easily start in the moss layer, which also do not contribute to the durability of the material. Therefore, the insulation of the bath from natural materials requires regular updates.

More modern synthetic materials completely devoid of these shortcomings. With no less environmental friendliness, they have a much longer service life, and in terms of thermal insulation parameters they even surpass natural alternatives.

In addition, synthetic materials are not at all afraid of exposure to moisture and high temperatures characteristic of a bath, they are distinguished by their low weight and simple technology for working with them.

Among the synthetic heat-insulating materials suitable for interior decoration of the bath, most widespread expanded polystyrene, basalt fiber, mineral wool and glass wool. When deciding how and what is better to insulate the bath inside, it is necessary to understand that for the same purpose, each of these materials also has some differences.

Styrofoam. Its main feature is a successful combination of excellent thermal insulation, low cost and low weight. However, in relation to the bath, this material can only be used to insulate the outer walls of the dressing room. In the washing room, due to the high temperature, polystyrene foam can lose its shape, thereby violating the thermal insulation. It is generally unacceptable to use this material for warming the steam room, since it is a fire hazard.
Basalt fiber insulation cannot boast of a pleasant price tag, but in relation to the bath they can become ideal solution. Since basalt fiber is produced from molten rocks, it has some important features:

absolute incombustibility;
resistance to mechanical deformation and moisture;
excellent level of sound absorption;
excellent thermal insulation.

Basalt insulation is quite convenient for finishing, as it is perfectly cut into pieces of the required shape. Their service life, which can reach several decades, is also noteworthy.

Mineral wool. The technology of its manufacture is in many ways similar to the production of basalt insulation. However, instead of rock in the production of mineral wool, much cheaper waste from the metallurgical industry is used. And this most positively affects the cost of such thermal insulation.

Other benefits of mineral wool include:

low thermal conductivity (guarantee of the reliability of thermal insulation);
hydrophobicity, allowing the use of mineral wool in conditions of high humidity;
ability to absorb sound.

Meanwhile, mineral wool, due to the characteristics of the raw materials for its manufacture, does not differ in mechanical strength. Therefore, when working with such material, it is desirable to exercise some caution.

Video on how to properly insulate the bath from the inside.

glass wool. At its core, this heat-insulating material is an interweaving of thin fibers of inorganic glass. Therefore, glass wool contains a significant amount of air in its volume, which ensures the ability to perfectly retain heat with good vapor permeability.

One of the significant advantages of glass wool over analogues is the relatively low cost. In this case, it is always possible to choose a heater of the required thickness. Both rolls of glass wool of different widths, as well as industrially cut mats and slabs are on sale.

And in this photo one of the schemes for warming the bath from the inside.

Warming the bath from the inside

Warming feature internal walls in the bath is high level humidity. Therefore, even in the case when thermal insulation insensitive to moisture is chosen, insulation will be required. securely cover with a layer of vapor barrier. If this is not done, then moisture will begin to condense inside the insulation material, which is fraught with a decrease in the ability to retain heat and the likelihood of rotting of the wall material.

As a vapor barrier for baths, aluminum foil can be used, which not only protects the insulation from condensation, but also reflects heat to a large extent. To ensure the integrity of the vapor barrier, all seams between sheets of foil should be glued with metallized tape.

Since the conditions in the bath are various premises significantly different, then the technology of insulation will vary significantly.

Wall insulation in the steam room.

Here the sequence of actions will be as follows:

on the surface of the walls is hung a crate of dry wooden beam or rails;
the cells formed by the laths of the crate are covered with a fiberglass cloth;
heat-insulating material is laid (basalt is best);
a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of everything.

The final stage of wall insulation in the steam room will be installation decorative finishes. As such, it is best to use a wooden lining.

Another video about warming the bath from the inside and how to sheathe the steam room inside.

Ceiling insulation.

This operation is in many ways similar to improving the thermal insulation of walls. The differences will be that when insulating the ceiling in the washing room and in the dressing room, you can refuse to use aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. Instead, it is quite possible to use cheaper polyethylene or kraft paper.

In addition, it is worth leaving a gap of 1-2 cm between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative ceiling cladding. This distance will improve the ventilation of the cladding material to speed up its drying. This point is quite important, because during the bath procedures, the ceiling lining is exposed to destructive impact moisture at very high temperatures. The presence of a gap will allow the tree not to rot, but to dry out without compromising its operational and aesthetic qualities.

Floor insulation.

Heat loss in the bath can occur not only through the walls or ceiling, but also through the floor, which is especially important in winter time. Therefore, the floors must also be carefully insulated. The sequence of actions for floor insulation will be as follows:

a concrete screed is poured on a leveled and compacted base of the earthen floor;
after the screed has hardened, a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene or roofing felt is lined;
sheets or sheets of insulation are laid;
another layer of waterproofing is lined;
poured another layer of concrete screed.

Since the floors in the bath are constantly in contact with water, when they are insulated, the thoroughness of laying the waterproofing should be given the greatest possible attention.

It is very important that water, even with minor damage to the top layer of the concrete screed, cannot penetrate into the insulation layer and thereby deprive it of its heat-insulating qualities.

Having solved the problem of how to properly insulate the bath from the inside, you can get a guarantee that it will be possible to quickly warm up all the rooms even in severe frosts. The sauna event itself will become much more comfortable, as the temperature will be consistently high.

This is especially important for lovers of a strong steam bath, because with insufficient thermal insulation of the steam room, the procedure will lose its attractiveness. Using the same modern insulating materials, you can permanently get rid of such problems.

Today, before starting the construction of a bath complex, each owner must ask himself how to insulate the bath from the inside. The construction market offers dozens of options. The main thing is not to get confused and choose such a heater for the bath so that it meets the building requirements.

Principles for choosing a heater

When buying material, you should pay attention to the most important features of an effective product:

environmental friendliness;
maximum degree of moisture resistance;
resistance to harmful microorganisms;
the ability not to deform during long-term operation;
thermal conductivity index: the higher it is, the better;
compatibility with building materials;
minimum value of moisture absorption;
compliance with fire safety requirements, standards of the sanitary and epidemiological station;
ability not to accumulate condensate;
ease of installation.

Varieties of insulation materials

Before you run around the shops and grab anything, you should understand the range of materials offered.

Bath heaters are organic and inorganic.

organic materials

This includes a group of heaters that are made from natural raw materials:

sheep wool or felt;
jute;
tow;
heat-insulating materials from peat, reeds and wood shavings.

The main advantage of natural materials is environmental friendliness.

But warming the bath from the inside with their help has a number of disadvantages:

Natural thermal insulation in the interior decoration of the sauna is a laborious and time-consuming process.
Natural heaters are short-lived, require regular updating.
Linen, moss, felt, tow - a favorable environment for the life and reproduction of insects, rodents and other harmful microorganisms.
They are suitable for dressing rooms, rest rooms, but are not suitable for thermal insulation inside hot rooms, even after additional treatment with fire retardants.
Purchase natural materials significantly "hit the wallet."

Inorganic or synthetic materials

There is no need to talk about absolute environmental friendliness here. Unlike natural ones, they will last for decades and provide better thermal insulation. Synthetic insulation for a bath is easy to install and resistant to high humidity and hot air.

Inorganic thermal insulation materials are divided into several types:

1.Polymer insulation

The group of these materials is foam plastic, foam plastic, honeycomb plastic insulation.

Styrofoam is easy to use to insulate the sauna ceiling. It does not absorb moisture, practical and easy to handle.

A novelty in the field of construction was foam glass, which embodies the best properties of foam and stone wool. The material lends itself to carving with a knife and is perfectly attached to the surface.

Despite the advantages, foam is not recommended for insulating the ceiling inside the sauna. On the one hand, it is considered a fire hazard. On the other hand, with an increase in air temperature, the foam plastic is deformed and emits an unpleasant odor, vapors of a toxic substance - phenol.

If you still decide to use foam, then it is better to insulate the walls of the dressing room with it from the outside.

2.Basalt insulation for a bath

Made from mountain parody, the material is used in last years demand. It has a number of advantages:

Not subject to combustion;
Resistant to humid air;
Does not deform under the influence of temperatures;
Excellent sound and heat insulation;
Service life up to 30 years;
It does not cause difficulties in the process of installation of the finish.

As for the shortcomings, with the exception of the cost of the material, there are none.

3.Mineral wool

The main difference between the production technology of mineral wool and the production of insulation from basalt fibers is the use of inexpensive industrial waste.

This has a positive effect on the price of the material, but negatively on the mechanical strength of the insulation. Therefore, during the installation process, be extremely careful.

Along with the disadvantages, mineral wool is not without advantages:

Reliable thermal insulation;
Not afraid of moisture;
High degree of sound insulation.

4.Glass wool

Warming a glass wool bath will cost no more than its counterparts. And according to certain criteria, it is not inferior to other materials: it keeps heat well and is easy to install.

A significant disadvantage of glass wool is the instability to hot air.

5. Foil insulation

To insulate the ceiling of the sauna, it is recommended to use materials that reflect light. Mirror heaters have become widespread. Through a special aluminum coating they reflect and do not let heat through the ceiling. Foil insulation for a bath is recommended to be used in combination with classic materials.

Sauna insulation

Having decided on the choice of one or two heat-insulating materials, proceed directly to work. Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands is a difficult process that requires skills in the field of construction. If you are confident in your abilities, then go for it. Otherwise, it is better to resort to the help of Marisrub specialists.

It should be noted that the process of thermal insulation of a wooden or brick sauna is almost the same. Therefore, it is not worth focusing on an insignificant difference.

Before you start insulating the walls, ceiling and floor, it will be right to take care of the vapor barrier. Even if you have chosen a moisture-resistant insulation, during operation, condensate will gradually begin to penetrate through the inner layers of the heat-insulating material and have destructive effects.

To isolate the insulation from moisture, aluminum foil is used. The solidity of the vapor barrier is achieved by metallized adhesive tape, which is used to glue the joints of foil sheets.

We warm the floors

It is correct to start warming the sauna not from the ceiling or walls, but from the floor. In the bath, it is continuous or leaking. Given that the designs differ from each other, the insulation of each type occurs in different ways.

It is better to use mineral wool. It is laid on a draft floor of boards and covered with a layer of waterproofing. The last step is pouring the floor.

When installing leaking floors, they dig a pit 50 cm deep and fill it with 5 cm of sand. After careful tamping, a 20-cm layer of insulation is laid - foam, which is poured cement mortar with styrofoam chips.

After drying, the concrete is covered with a layer of waterproofing, while not forgetting about the walls.

Then again they are poured with cement with vermiculite, a reinforcing mesh is spread and covered with a layer of concrete with fine gravel. At this stage of work, a slope is made in the direction where the water flow will be.

The work is completed by laying the finishing floor on the posts.

We insulate the walls

Warming the walls of the bath from the inside occurs in stages:

1. Using wooden slats or timber, we apply a crate to the surface of the walls. The gap between the rails must be made smaller than the width of the heat-insulating material.

This is done in order for the insulation to fill the resulting spaces and prevent the formation of bridges for cold air. As a heater, it is recommended to use mineral wool or basalt fiber slabs.

2. After laying the heat insulator, cover it with any vapor barrier with foil. In this case, the reflective side of the aluminum surface is located inside the sauna.

The vapor barrier is placed between the rails, and fixed to them.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the steam room is ready! By the same principle, other rooms of the sauna are insulated. Instead of foil for vapor barrier, thick kraft paper for wrapping is suitable.

When insulating buildings made of bricks or blocks, it is advised to increase the thickness of the basalt insulation so as not to lose heat.

We insulate the ceiling

Thermal insulation of the ceiling occurs by analogy with the principle of wall insulation.

According to the laws of physics, the closer to ceiling covering the hotter the air will be. Therefore, fire-resistant insulation is chosen for the ceiling. Mineral wool is perfect.

If there is an attic in the bath, then a layer of vapor barrier is made above the insulation - an aluminum film.

Insulation is placed under, above or between the rafters. If you are looking for an easy way, then lay the insulation in a continuous layer between the rafters.

Finally, cover the heat-insulating material with a layer of waterproofing. At the same time, do not forget about the air gap with a size of 20 mm. This is done taking into account the increase in insulation by a third of the width under the influence of moist air.

In the absence of an attic in the bath, expanded clay is often used as a heater for the ceiling. A layer of heat insulator of 25 cm is poured onto a layer of vapor barrier.

The construction market offers heat-insulating panels for warming the bath room. The main advantage of the material is the possibility of refusing waterproofing, minus - they require a reliable vapor barrier layer.

Properly performed interior decoration baths guarantee not only a pleasant stay in the company of friends, but also safety. So come to choose building materials and doing the job with the utmost responsibility.

Baths are built different technologies from different materials. Internal, as a necessary element of the bath, depends on it common device. Brick and foam block baths require mandatory insulation and waterproofing.

The need for warming log cabins from is considered in each individual case.

Which bath needs to be insulated from the inside? Which ones to use? How to insulate a bath from the inside? Let's figure it out.

Insulation of the bath from the inside: Materials for insulation

ATTENTION! A small space must be left between the vapor barrier material and the lining. The air layer becomes an additional heat-insulating layer and allows natural ventilation to function inside the walls and ceiling.

wooden bath

If . A bath built of logs or timber structurally holds heat better than others. The need for insulation depends on the thickness of the wall material.

block baths

The choice of thermal insulation materials is determined not only by good heat retention, but also no release of toxic substances with strong heating. Pay attention to combined heaters, they can significantly simplify work.

For finishing you need to use soft woods. The lining must be carefully processed and in no case covered with any chemical compounds..

Work on the insulation of all parts of the bath from the inside: floor, walls, ceiling and - are quite complicated, but quite doable without special knowledge of the construction business.

Eh, bath-bath, how good it is, sometimes to sit in the steam room, relax, but this will not be possible if it is difficult to maintain the desired temperature in it. This happens in most cases due to poor thermal insulation or a violation of technology during its installation. How to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, so that nothing could overshadow the joy of visiting the steam room? I am going to give the answer to this question in this article. Read, don't get distracted.

Benefits of internal insulation

Yes, yes, we will talk specifically about internal insulation, since this method has fundamental advantages over warming the bath from the outside. There are at least three such benefits that come to mind.

The first is the ability to reduce heat loss in an already built bath, but during the erection of which, mistakes were made during the insulation of the foundation. This defect cannot be corrected by insulating the building from the outside, since the heat will escape through the floor, and it can only be insulated from the inside.

The second advantage is purely economic. Thermal insulation of the bath from the inside requires much less materials than full sheathing with thermal insulation and cladding of the entire building - the area of \u200b\u200bwork is much smaller. In addition, when insulating the bath from the inside, often the main work is carried out only in the steam room, which is even smaller in size.

Of course, other rooms, such as a locker room, a shower room, also need to be insulated, but the degree of material consumption for them is several times less than for a steam room, therefore, it takes an order of magnitude less money for all this.

The third advantage comes into play only if the winters in your area are particularly severe. In this case, the bath must be insulated both outside and inside, especially if the building is built of brick or aerated concrete. Even log cabin saunas, which are known for their heat-insulating properties without special treatment, cannot do without additional internal thermal insulation in such winters.

The choice of material for insulation

At the moment, a huge number of different heaters for walls are presented on the construction market. But not all of them are suitable for a bath. Choosing thermal insulation, you need to proceed from two facts:

Conditions in which the thermal insulation will fall;
Characteristics of the thermal insulation material.

The first fact is the operating conditions. In the bath, they are more than aggressive, high humidity and temperature. Its large differences, especially in winter. From the side of the street, frost will "press" on the insulation, and on the other hand, heat. This combination will inevitably lead to condensation.

Related article: Dimensions of balcony slabs

In addition, high temperatures turn many popular heaters into hazardous to human health. Also, do not forget that the bathhouse is a building with an increased risk of fire, so you do not need to insulate it with materials that burn well.

As for the characteristics of the material, they must correspond, again, to the operating conditions. To make it clearer, I will give an example of thermal insulation, which should not be used when warming a bath. This material is ecowool. Yes, it is an excellent heat insulator, but its tendency to accumulate moisture spoils everything. When ecowool is wet, it loses its properties.

What materials can not be used to insulate the bath?

In addition to ecowool, it should be taboo for you to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside using polystyrene foam, other materials based on it, such as foam plastic, and also forget about using classic mineral wool as a heater. Explain why they don't work.

Styrofoam and all its derivatives at high temperature I begin to emit harmful substances that can lead to suffocation, in the conditions of a steam room this may not even be noticed. In addition, the foam burns perfectly, which is not good.

As a binder in classic mineral wool, formaldehyde resins are used, their vapors are harmful to humans. Yes, all manufacturers claim that these fumes do not exceed the norm. But who cares if this is the norm of poison. And besides, this norm stands out under normal conditions, and the bath does not differ as such.

What materials are suitable for insulation?

Peat blocks;
Sawdust;
Foam glass;
Acrylic-based mineral wool.

Peat blocks. This is ordinary peat mixed with natural filler such as sawdust or straw. These materials are used to make "porridge" by diluting it in water, with the help of molds and a press, blocks are produced. They do not rot, do not burn, perfectly absorb, and also give moisture back. They have good heat and sound insulation.

Sawdust is a common waste product when sawing wood. Despite its small size, it is still wood, and it has good thermal insulation. The wall in the bath is insulated with slips, filling them into niches that are previously covered with a vapor barrier and waterproofing.

Fiberboard - wood fiber boards, are nothing more than pressed wood chips. They have a rather mediocre thermal insulation, but at the same time they are inexpensive.

Related article: Large bathroom - we think over the design to the smallest detail

Foam glass. As the name suggests, foam glass is foamed glass with excellent thermal insulation properties. Does not highlight harmful substances, does not burn, indifferent to moisture. In my opinion, foam glass is the best option for warming a bath, but there is a drawback, like any other good product, the price of it “bites”. But if the issue of saving is not an edge for you, then choose foam glass, you will not regret it.

Acrylic-based mineral wool. These are the same mineral wool slabs, with almost the same characteristics, but do not emit harmful substances. This is because the binder is not formaldehyde, but acrylic resin, which is absolutely inert to any chemical compounds and temperature fluctuations.

Insulation technology "Pie"

This technology has such a name because of the several layers that make up the wall after the completion of the insulation work. The first layer is considered to be a load-bearing wall, the second is a heater, the third is a vapor barrier, and the fourth is a wall cladding, which usually appears in a bath wooden lining. To make it clear how to proceed with this technology, I will give an example of how a bath can be insulated with mineral wool on acrylic resin.

The technology provides for starting insulation from the ceiling and ending with the floor. "Pie" begins with the installation of wooden bars on the surface. They will serve as the basis for mounting mineral wool slabs, which, by the way, will be fastened by surprise, without the use of any additional fasteners.

In order for the insulation boards to securely fall into place, the distance between wooden blocks frame, should be 1 cm less than the width of the insulation, only in this case you can be sure that the insulation will not fall out. After the frame is ready, you can start stuffing it with thermal insulation. Make sure that during installation, the edges of the mats are not crushed, as this may adversely affect its properties.

Important: When installing the insulation, all its components must fit snugly against each other. This is also necessary because if there is a gap between the plates, then moisture will accumulate in this place, and a so-called cold bridge will form, through which heat will escape.

After installing the insulation, it must be covered with a vapor barrier. In its role can be a traditional roofing material or more modern foil vapor barriers. The side that is covered with foil should “look inward to reflect the heat back. All seams and joints of the vapor barrier must be sealed with aluminum tape.

There are many materials for warming the bath, there are plenty to choose from. These are mineral wool, basalt, fiberglass and foil foam, as well as various wood seals. They are equally well suited for any work and are used for both walls and ceilings of steam rooms. When choosing the best way to insulate a bath, take into account a few tips:

The packaging must contain information on the coefficient of thermal conductivity and the maximum thickness of the material. If instead of exact numbers the thermal range is indicated, then it is better to refuse it.
Correctly you need to choose the density of the material. High scores are not always positive side. Give preference to those with lower thermal conductivity.
Class fire safety should be marked like this - "GO" or "G1". The insulation should not be toxic, so that when it is used in the steam room, volatile substances harmful to humans are not released.

An excellent option would be foil penoizol. It does not require additional vapor barrier, and installation is carried out by hand in short time without a specialized tool.

Wall insulation from the outside - a "fur coat" for a bath

The wooden bath is insulated with tow. She lays all mezhventsovye connections. The structure of round logs does not require this, because during processing special cuts are made in the logs and they fit snugly together.

Wall insulation from the outside is carried out only in brick baths. This is done according to the principle of a ventilated facade. As a material for vapor and waterproofing, polyethylene film is used, and as a heater - mineral wool.

How brick walls are insulated - work plan:

First, a frame made of a metal profile is mounted over the entire surface of the wall, the distance between the guides should be selected based on the size of the insulation so that it does not need to be cut.
Mineral wool is laid between the frame elements.
From above, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film to protect the wool from condensation.
The joints of the vapor barrier material are glued with adhesive tape.
The insulation through the vapor barrier is attached to the wall with special dowels, the cap of which looks like an umbrella.
After that, the walls are sheathed with the selected finishing material.

There is nothing complicated and all the work on warming the walls of the bath from the outside can be easily done with your own hands. Thanks to the market modern materials type foil pinotherm, you can do without additional hydro-vapor barrier. It is laid on the wall and the whole structure is sewn up with a finishing material.

Wall insulation from the inside

Having dealt with outdoor work, you can proceed to the next stage. How to insulate a bath from the inside? For this, an old, tried and tested method is used - a frame device with a gasket of heat-insulating material. The principle is similar to the installation of a ventilated facade during the insulation of the outer wall.

First around the perimeter bearing walls a frame made of wooden bars or metal elements is mounted. The distance between the guides of the frame should be equal to the width of the insulation.
Then in finished structure insulation is laid, on top of which foil waterproofing must be overlapped. The joints are glued with construction tape.
The final step will be the installation of a wooden lining.

This method is laborious, but proven over the years. It will not be difficult to insulate the walls of the bath with your own hands, but for clarity, you can watch the video.

Floor insulation

Let's describe general principle. They are insulated with foam, and the scheme looks like this:

We level the base as much as possible and lay the waterproofing material.
We carefully place the insulation on a flat film, if necessary, filling the voids with cut-off pieces.
On top of this "pie" we place a reinforcing mesh and fill everything with concrete.
After hardening, finishing, laying tiles, etc.

Many may ask why foam? This is the most durable and rigid material of all roll or plate heaters. It withstands significant mechanical loads without changing its characteristics in a humid environment. Numerous air bubbles are hidden in the thickness of the foam, providing low thermal conductivity. It won't rot or get moldy over time. In fact, this is a universal material, it is also used to insulate the walls of the bath, both outside and inside.

Ceiling

This is a mandatory part because a lot of heat escapes through the roof. Some still use old-fashioned methods, filling the attic with soil, straw or sawdust. Today there are more modern options, but the essence of the work has not changed. you need from the outside, that is, from the side of the attic.

Expanded clay, polystyrene or mineral wool can be used. From the side of the steam room, if the chimney pipe exits through the top, it is lined with asbestos cloth and coated with fire-retardant mastic. Styrofoam or mineral wool should be laid no closer than 15–20 cm from the pipe. Expanded clay can be poured next to the pipe, since it is absolutely non-combustible material.

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation sequence:

First, we cover the entire surface with waterproofing material.
Between the lags we lay the material. If it is polystyrene or mineral wool, we cut it according to size, fill up the expanded clay and level it over the entire area.
We lay another layer of vapor barrier film on top of the insulation and sew up the structure with boards on top - if you want to make a floor in the attic or lay flooring for passage during maintenance of the attic space.

When considering the use of expanded clay, it must be taken into account that this material does not have very good thermal conductivity and for normal insulation a thick layer will be required. Do you think the cover will hold up? by the most the best options there will be roll or slab heaters.

Entrance door

With complex insulation, you will need to think about this problem. Experts recommend making the doors narrow and low. This will greatly reduce heat loss. Well, if you still need their additional protection, then let's look at how to insulate the door to the bathhouse with your own hands. There are several ways, differing in complexity of execution.

The first is the laying of material into the inner cavity of the door. In this embodiment, a two-layer frame structure is required. The method is laborious and not everyone can do it. On initial stage you will have to assemble the door from two canvases, with a heat insulator inside.

In the second method, you can fix the material on top of the structure. Then close everything decorative coating. This option is easier. A foil insulation is stuffed onto the canvas, which is hidden under moisture-resistant plywood or other decorative material.

All measures for warming the bath inside and out are carried out at the construction stage. Integrated approach and right choice material will reduce the cost of heating the steam room and maintain comfortable temperature premises.