Homemade led lamp. How to make a lamp from an LED strip with your own hands. Scope of homemade LED lamps
Good afternoon everyone, in this article I will continue the topic of LED lamps, and most importantly powerful ones, by this we mean from 10 to 50 watts. After a long search for my LEDs, I found 34 pieces of 1 watt. Immediately the question arose: how to feed all this? A solution was found to use an electronic transformer TASHIBRA 50-60W. Our lamp consumes decently and it should start without alteration. I added a diode bridge (the diode bridge must be high-frequency or mid-frequency) and a capacitor. Yes, here's a simple trick. But I must warn you: such a PSU does not have any stabilization and protection. To prolong the life of the LEDs - you do not need to power them with 12 volts, as expected, but 10-11 V, which is quite enough and the brightness does not drop, there is a small margin for increasing the voltage in the network. We also do not bypass the issue of filters at the input, you need to put a 400 Volt 10 microfarad capacitor and wind several turns of the network wire around the ferrite ring, that's all.
All this came to me a little late and is not visible in the photo. Well, a painful topic, LED cooling. How to provide good cooling, but so that it all looks compact and without coolers. Do you know how in the fairy tale “There is a solution - you just need ...” just now? - you ask. It is necessary to reduce the supply voltage of the LED by 10-20% - that's all. Many will now say, but how will the brightness also fall? I can honestly tell you that the brightness will drop by no more than 5-10%. But you will extend the life of the LEDs, and at the same time reduce the generation of unnecessary heat.
We rewind the transformer, make a radiator from a piece of aluminum and attach the LEDs as follows: we spread a little thermal paste on the seat, after which we fix the LEDs on the radiator with epoxy. I fixed it with hot glue for testing, but this is not an option. Next, we collect everything in a "heap". After testing, it turned out that the radiator area was too small, after which I installed a small cooler, which solved all the problems.
Final testing showed that the temperature of the radiator is only 38 degrees after 4 years of operation. When comparing an ordinary incandescent lamp and a new one, the result, as they say, is on the face. Thank you all for your attention, Kalyan-Super-Boss was with you. Good luck repeating the pattern!
Gradually, lighting devices are switching to LED lamps. This did not happen immediately, there was a protracted transitional period with the use of the so-called housekeepers - compact gas-discharge light bulbs with a built-in power supply (driver) and a standard E27 or E14 cartridge.
Such lamps are widely used today, since their cost in comparison with LED light sources is not so "biting".
With a good balance of price and economy (the difference in price with conventional incandescent lamps pays off over time due to energy savings), gas-discharge light sources have a number of disadvantages:
- The service life is lower than that of incandescent lamps.
- High frequency interference from the power supply.
- Lamps do not like frequent switching on and off.
- Gradual decrease in brightness.
- Effects on nearby surfaces: A dark spot develops over time on the surface of the ceiling (above the lamp).
- And in general, I don’t really want to have a flask with a certain amount of mercury in the house.
A great alternative is LED lights. The list of advantages is weighty: - Amazing efficiency (up to 10 times compared to incandescent lamps).
- Huge service life.
- Perfect and safe power supplies (drivers).
- Absolutely independent of the number of inclusions.
- With normal cooling, they do not lose brightness for almost the entire period of operation.
- Complete mechanical safety (even if the decorative diffuser is broken, no harmful substances will enter the room).
- The directivity of the light flux makes high demands on the design of the diffuser.
- Still, they are expensive (we are talking about quality brands, nameless mid-range products are quite affordable).
But it is precisely in this construction that the “ambush” lies.
Before us is a high-quality (at the same time relatively inexpensive) lamp with a luminous brightness of 1000 Lm (equivalent to a 100-watt incandescent lamp), and a power consumption of 13 watts. I have such LED light sources that work for many years, they shine with a pleasant warm light (temperature 2700 K), and no degradation of brightness is observed over time.
But for powerful light, serious cooling is required. Therefore, the body of this lamp for 2/3 consists of a radiator. It is plastic, does not spoil the appearance, and is quite effective. The main drawback follows from the design - the real light source is a hemisphere at the top of the lamp. This makes it difficult to select a lamp - not in every carob chandelier such a lamp will look harmonious.
There is only one way out - to buy ready-made LED lamps, the configuration of which was originally designed for specific light sources.
The key word is buy. And what to do with your favorite floor lamps, chandeliers and other lamps in the apartment?
Therefore, it was decided to design LED lamps independently.
The main criterion is cost minimization.There are two main directions in the development of LED light sources:
1. The use of low-power (up to 0.5 W) LEDs. They require a lot, you can configure any shape. A powerful radiator is not needed (they heat up a little). A significant drawback is a more painstaking assembly.
2. Use of powerful (1 W - 5 W) LED elements. Efficiency is high, labor costs are many times less. But point radiation requires the selection of a diffuser, and good radiators are needed to implement the project.
For experimental designs, I chose the first option. The most inexpensive "raw material": 5 mm LEDs with a dispersion of 120 ° in a transparent case. They are called "straw hat".
The characteristics are as follows:
- forward current = 20 mA (0.02 A)
- voltage drop across 1 diode = 3.2-3.4 volts
- color - warm white
I bought several packs 100 pcs. on aliexpress(link to purchase). It cost a little less than 1 p. a piece.
As power supplies (more precisely, current sources), I decided to use a proven circuit with a quenching (ballast) capacitor. The advantages of such a driver are extreme cheapness and minimal energy consumption. Since there is no PWM controller, or a linear current stabilizer, the excess energy does not go into the atmosphere: in this circuit there are no elements with a heat dissipating radiator.
The disadvantage is the lack of current stabilization. That is, with an unstable mains voltage, the brightness of the glow will change. I have exactly 220 (+/- 2 volts) in my outlet, so this circuit is just right.
The element base is also not expensive.
- diode bridges of the KTS405A series (you can use any diodes, even Schottky)
- film capacitors with a voltage of 630 volts (with a margin)
- 1-2 watt resistors
- electrolytic capacitors 47 mF at 400 volts (you can take a larger capacity, but this is beyond the scope of economy)
- little things like a breadboard and fuses are usually in the arsenal of any radio amateur
After carefully (on the street!) Extraction of the flask with mercury vapor, there remains an excellent blank for creativity.
The basis of the fundamentals - the calculation and principle of operation of a current driver with a quenching capacitor
A typical diagram is shown in the illustration:
How the circuit works:
Resistor R1 limits the current surge when power is applied until the circuit stabilizes (about 1 second). Value from 50 to 150 ohms. Power 2 W.Resistor R2 ensures the operation of the ballast capacitor. First, it discharges it when the power is turned off. At a minimum, so that you are not shaken by current when unscrewing the light bulb. The second task is to prevent a current surge in the case when the polarity of the charged capacitor and the first half-wave of 220 volts do not match.
Actually, the quenching capacitor C1 is the basis of the circuit. It is a kind of current filter. By selecting the capacitance, you can set any current in the circuit. For our diodes, it should not exceed 20 mA at the peak values of the mains voltage.
Next, the diode bridge works (after all, LEDs are elements with polarity).
An electrolytic capacitor C2 is needed to prevent the lamp from flickering. LEDs have no inertia when turned on and off. Therefore, the eye will see a flicker at a frequency of 50 Hz. By the way, cheap Chinese lamps sin with this. The quality of the capacitor is checked using any digital camera, even a smartphone. Looking at the burning diodes through the digital matrix, you can see blinking, indistinguishable to the human eye.
In addition, this electrolyte gives an unexpected bonus: the lamps do not turn off immediately, but with a noble slow attenuation until the capacity is discharged.
The calculation of the quenching capacitor is made according to the formula:
I = 200*C*(1.41*U network - U led)
I - received circuit current in amperes
200 is a constant (network frequency 50Hz * 4)
1.41 - constant
C - capacitance of capacitor C1 (quenching) in farads
U network - the estimated voltage of the network (ideally - 220 volts)
U led - the total voltage drop across the LEDs (in our case - 3.3 volts, multiplied by the number of LED elements)
By selecting the number of LEDs (with a known voltage drop) and the capacitance of the quenching capacitor, it is necessary to achieve the required current. It should not be higher than that specified in the characteristics of the LEDs. It is the current strength that you adjust the brightness of the glow, and inversely proportional to the life of the LEDs.
For convenience, you can create a formula in Excel.
The circuit has been tested repeatedly, the first copy was assembled almost 3 years ago, it works in a lamp in the kitchen, there were no malfunctions.
Let's move on to the practical implementation of projects. There is no point in discussing the number of LED elements and the capacitance of the capacitor in separate circuits: the projects are individual for each lamp. Calculated strictly according to the formula. The above circuit for 60 LEDs with a 68 microfarad capacitor is not just an example, but a real calculation for a current in the circuit of 15 mA (to extend the life of the lights).
LED lamp in carob chandelier
We use the gutted cartridge from the housekeeper as a case for the circuit and the supporting structure. In this project, I did not use a breadboard, I assembled the driver on a 1 mm thick PVC round. It turned out just the right size. Two capacitors - due to the selection of capacitance: the required number of microfarads was not found in one element.
A jar of yogurt was used as a housing for placing LED elements. In the design, I also used 3 mm PVC foam sheet trimmings.
After assembly, it turned out neat and even beautiful. This arrangement of the cartridge is associated with the shape of the chandelier: the horns are directed upwards, towards the ceiling.
Next, we place the LEDs: according to the scheme, 150 pcs. We pierce the plastic with an awl, labor costs: one full evening.
Looking ahead, I will say: the case material did not justify itself, it is too thin. The next lamp was made of 1 mm PVC sheet. To give shape, I calculated the sweep of the cone for the same 150 diodes.
It turned out not so elegant, but it is reliable, and it keeps its shape perfectly. The lamp is completely hidden in the chandelier's horn, so appearance is not so important.
Actually, installation.
It shines evenly, does not hit the eyes.
I did not measure lumens, it feels like it is brighter than a 40 W incandescent lamp, a little weaker than 60 W.
LED lamp in a flat ceiling lamp for the kitchen
An ideal donor for such a project. All LEDs will be located in the same plane.
We draw a template, cut out a matrix to place LED elements. With this diameter, a flat PVC sheet will deform. Therefore, I used the bottom of a plastic bucket from under construction mixtures. There is a stiffening rib along the outer contour.
Diodes are installed using the usual awl: 2 holes for marking. If you dig carefully on, you can find very cheap LEDs for your crafts.)
In this case, this is a common AXD-1WXSJ30W, with a power of 1W, a current of ~300mA and a brightness of ~100 Lumens.
In general, the purchase of these LEDs is connected with the desire to ennoble their fellow - a Chinese lamp for 2 LEDs of 36 watts. This is how it looked before the first reincarnation:
Yes, yellowed from the sun and with flies ...
Such lamps get rid of yellowing and nondescript appearance by painting the body with aluminum paint from a cylinder. This will give them the color of aluminum without gloss. Looks chic and "rich".)) 
But no ... this is still a two-LDS lamp that has set its teeth on edge ?!
OK. Let's add fifty LEDs! (other fifty diodes are used for the second lamp) 
We test "on the knee": 
Works great!
We proceed to the preparation of the lamp. We throw out the old giblets - electronic ballast and lamp sockets. It turns out that the main (middle) part of the lamp body is indeed aluminum, what is needed for cooling!
First sample: 
As planned, we need some parts made of aluminum profiles. We follow them to the castorama: 
Wow... damn expensive. There are only two sizes - one meter and two meters. The lamp has a length of about twenty meters and it is more profitable for us to purchase meter profiles. But what? W-shaped ones are damn good and look like a radiator. But the price is under 80 rubles ... In addition, you will need three pieces for each lamp ... And then we come across a wonderful I-beam 3 cm x 2 cm for a ridiculous price - 39 rubles. What is the price, why is it so ... I don’t know. 
One lamp needs a pair.
Another fitting 
We fasten them together with rivets, as the cheapest means. Drill holes for boards. 
Fixing the drivers. 
We also fasten the boards with soldered LEDs with rivets, lubricating their aluminum base this time with KPT-8 heat-conducting paste. It is much cheaper than glue, but you need a lot of it for these purposes. 
We solder and lay the wires. 
The product is ready! 
So, we got rid of the old LDS and got a modern, stylish and unique LED lamp.
The heating temperature of the aluminum profile is kept around 60 degrees, which is quite acceptable.
The power consumption turned out to be about 45 watts versus 60 for the unconverted LDS. Our LED lamp shines clearly brighter (the LEDs, by the way, were bought in white color) than LDS, which remains a mystery to me, because characteristics of LDS lamps - 2500 lumens each. That is 5000 lumens the whole light. About one-watt LEDs they write where 100-120 lumens, where 90-110 ... 50 pieces were used for the lamp, that is, it seems to be equivalent, but in fact it is 20 percent brighter.
Expenses.
1. LEDs 1W - 50 pcs ($4.2: 2) $2.1
2. diode boards - 10 pcs ($8:2) $4
3. driver - 2 pcs ($2.36 * 2) $4.72
4. al. profile - 2 pieces (39 rubles * 2) 80 rubles or about $ 1.5
Total: $12.32 for 50 watts.
That is, for 1 dollar received 4 watts of LED light. Record?
Hidden text
Look here:
- LED assembly 9 W (COB) on a ceramic substrate with a built-in driver! Just supply 220V! Lot of 10 for $28 - 90W for $28 is 3.2W for $1.
But this is more interesting - - 10 pieces of 5730 diodes on a board with a driver. Lot of 10 boards is $12.78 which is 50 watts and… drumroll… 3.91 watts per dollar!
Here (finished board) is 3.84 watts per dollar.
Well, the result of 4 watts (400 lumens) per dollar is not so easy to beat. The option with discrete diodes is maintainable and cheap.
PS: The sellers used, and worked perfectly - sent quickly and without delay. The LEDs had a marriage of up to 20%, but at the first mention, the seller offered to send (and later sent) a double amount in return for a marriage with the next order from him. So he closed the problem quickly. Unpretentious. I can recommend everyone.
Next, the necessary components were purchased.
Diodes:
XTEAWT-00-0000-000000HE1-STAR 28 pieces for 150 rub. in the amount of 4200 rubles.
XBDRED-00-0000-000000801-STAR 4 pieces for 166 rubles. in the amount of 664 rubles.
XBDROY-00-0000-000000M01-STAR 4 pieces for 106 rubles for the amount of 424 rubles.
XBDGRN-00-0000-000000D01-STAR 4 pieces for 113 rubles. in the amount of 452 rubles.
Power supply HVGC-150-700A, Mean Well in the amount of 5245 rubles.
Radiator 800mm in the amount of 1800 rubles.
Hot glue 650 rub.
Corners, glass, light-diffusing glass (4 pieces) wires, plug into a socket, about 2000 rubles.
Total approximately 15435 rubles.
As a basis, a radiator profile was chosen under the code name OH00859. The choice of a radiator is due to the fact that its efficiency is somewhat higher, and there were also some technical issues that required such a performance.
The long lamp turned out to be 800mm. The length was also approved by the person for whom the lamp was assembled.
As a result of searching for aluminum corners, I could not find the size that I needed. Here I will explain, I needed such a corner, in which one side is about 5mm. (she will hold the glass) and the other 4-5cm. The edging of the lamp with such a corner allows you to leave enough space between the glass and the diodes so that in the future you can put secondary optics on the diodes. In one place they said it was necessary to wait a month for delivery; in another, they stopped buying it altogether. I had to go to Leroy Merlin and buy a plastic one.
After that, a parcel was received from the "Electronic Engineer", then you can see 11.000 rubles. in the photo, it looks very modest :)
This hot melt glue dries very quickly, in just a few minutes. In this regard, soldering immediately began.
After soldering, a test run was made.
After a trial run, the final assembly.
If you have any questions, or want to order the assembly of this or a similar lamp, please write to e-mail
13.5 W LED bulbs should have been quite sufficient for sufficient illumination of an 8 m 2 room. But in fact, it turned out that the light was a little lacking.
The analysis showed that the reason for insufficient lighting with sufficient lamp power lay in the design of the LED lamp. In its lower part, parallel to the horizon and directed downwards, there were only 36 LEDs, and from the remaining 162 the light flux went to the sides and, in addition, decreased, passing through the frosted glass of the ceiling. Thus, the real illumination of the floor was equivalent to illumination by a LED light bulb with a directional light with a power of no more than three watts.
Due to the erroneous choice of the type of light bulb, the insufficient illumination of the kitchen, especially in winter, created discomfort, and it came to the realization that it was time to replace the light bulb in the chandelier with an LED lamp of a different design.
The search for an inexpensive LED light bulb with a power of about 16-18 W with a wide angle of directional warm light was not successful. Due to the installed optics, lamps with powerful one-watt LEDs had a small angle or the base did not fit. And suitable lamps were very expensive. Lamps with low-power LEDs such as LED-Y-SMD352 or LED-Y-SMD5050 did not suit the power.
Since the existing lamp had a large ceiling, the idea arose to make a powerful LED lamp with your own hands from several low-power ones. As a result, four inexpensive lamps of the MR16 type with a power of 4.5 W were bought, for them four cartridges with a GU5.3 base, and one powerful lamp was made from them, the glow of which you see in the photo.
The cost was less than $10, and it took several hours to remake. The result is excellent. True, the lamp began to look unusual, as if the past and high-tech were combined. A powerful LED lamp made from several low-power ones received an additional advantage - in case one of them burns out, the room will continue to be sufficiently illuminated by the remaining bulbs, you can easily change the shade of light by installing, for example, two warm light bulbs and two cold light bulbs.
Making a powerful LED lamp
Any work on the manufacture of homemade products begins with sketch work - measuring the dimensions of parts and, taking into account their overall and connecting dimensions, drawing up a general sketch of the future product.
To make a composite one powerful LED lamp from several low-power ones, you will need a base for an E27 cartridge with a base from an energy-saving lama, four MR16 lamps and four GU5.3 cartridges for them. You can see their overall and connecting dimensions in the photo of the sketches.
Further, based on the obtained dimensions of the parts, you need to draw a sketch of the base of the future lamp. A fiberglass plate 1.5 mm thick and 90 mm in diameter was chosen as the base. The base can also be made of any metal, such as aluminum or steel 1 mm thick.
The next step is marking the future base of the lamp. With the help of a caliper or a school compass, a generatrix of the base is applied. Further, in accordance with the sketch, the points for drilling holes for the socles for light bulbs and wires are applied. The round shape of the base can be given with an electric or manual jigsaw. The base can also be made rectangular in shape by cutting it out with metal scissors. After sawing or cutting, sharp edges must be removed with fine sandpaper.
To obtain holes in precisely marked places, it is better to first drill them with a thin drill, for example, with a diameter of 1 mm, and then drill them to the desired diameter with a thicker drill.
It was decided to fix the GU5.3 plinths to the base using screws with a metric M3 thread. Therefore, holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm were first drilled, and then threads were cut using a tap.
The holes through which the electrical wires will pass, with a larger diameter drill, sharp edges were removed and chamfered.
The base for the homemade lamp is ready and you can begin to mount parts on it. To give the base an aesthetic look, you can paint it with paint or paste over with a film.
The easiest way is to cover the base with self-adhesive aluminum foil. I did not have a strip of sufficient width, and therefore a seam turned out. If there is no foil covered with a sticky layer, then you can glue with glue, for example, "Moment" ordinary aluminum foil, which is used for domestic needs or a chocolate wrapper.
The base from the base of the E27 energy-saving lamp to the base is attached using two corners with metric screws bent at a right angle from the strips clamping the mains wire in Soviet-style C1-b electric plugs. Corners can be made by cutting strips of steel sheet 1-2 mm thick, and use self-tapping screws as fasteners.
In order for the base of the energy-saving lamp not to spoil the insulation of the wires coming from the GU5.3 socles, samples were made in it from four sides using a round file.
The first to be installed and fixed on the base of the future composite lamp are GU5.3 electric cartridges. The wires coming out of the cartridges were quite long. I did not shorten them, since there was enough space for laying wires in the base from an energy-saving lamp.
Next, one wire coming from each cartridge is twisted together. The remaining four wires from the cartridges are also twisted together. The resulting twists are soldered using a soldering iron with tin-lead solder. If it is not possible to solder, then the connection can be made using the terminal block.
It remains to lay out the wires in a spiral and connect their ends to the ends of the wires connected to the base of the base of the energy-saving lamp. The color marking of the wires in this case does not matter.
The twisted wires coming from the cartridges and the base are coaxially overlapped and applied to each other and fastened with a drop of solder. A piece of vinyl chloride tube is put on the place of soldering for insulation.
It remains to fill the wires into the base of the energy-saving lamp and fix it to the base of the lamp with two screws. The new composite lamp is ready and you can screw it into the lamp socket and install LED bulbs in the GU5.3 sockets.
Tests have shown that the LED bulbs in the sockets are held with a sufficient layer. But the probability of their falling out still existed. Therefore, for their reliable fixing, a threaded stand was additionally installed in the center of the base.
After installing the LED bulbs to the rack with the help of the M3 screw, a large washer was fixed, which pressed the bulbs by the edges to the cartridges and excluded their spontaneous slipping over time. Instead of a washer, you can attach, for example, frosted glass to the rack to get softer light or a decorative decoration.
The photo shows a do-it-yourself high-power LED light bulb from four low-power ones. The picture of the lamp was taken from the side of the base. The lamp somehow reminds me of a modern spacecraft.
And this photo shows a homemade lamp of four low-power MR16 lamps from the side of their installation.
All those who knew saw a lamp with a modernized lamp were surprised at the curiosity and noted the excellent illumination provided by the lamps in the kitchen. Although, inventing this design, I had a good idea in my imagination what should eventually happen, but the result exceeded all my expectations. It turned out much more interesting.
The proposed technology for manufacturing an LED lamp can be used to manufacture an adapter in order to be able to install a light bulb in a luminaire with a base type that is different from the type of lamp holder.
