Non-standard options for installing a pump in home heating. How to properly install a heating pump. Choosing a place for tapping the pump into the heating network

IN separate system heating with natural circulation, there are some problems that can be solved with the help of circulation pump.

Forced circulation in the heating system - why is it needed

Installing a circulation pump in the heating system will allow you to evenly distribute heat to all radiators. It is the uneven heating of the batteries that is the most common malfunction of water heating with natural circulation. There may be several reasons, and all of them lie in improper installation: insufficient pipe diameter, slopes not observed, excessive length of the system, air congestion in it.

Many people, after finding out the cause of the poor performance of the heating system, come up with the idea to redo it. And this means that you will have to change pipes, if not all, then part of them, set slopes, punch holes in the walls, and redo something. In a word: renovation. Dust, welding smoke and money, and a lot of it. Is there no other way out? There is, and it costs less, the work is done faster, no dust. Of course, we are talking about the circulation pump.

If the heating performs its functions normally, does it make sense to install a forced supply of coolant? Definitely yes, and here's why:

1. The inertia of the heating system is noticeably reduced. The circulation of water under duress dramatically reduces the time from ignition of the boiler to warming up even the most remote batteries.
2. The temperature in all batteries will equalize. During natural circulation, the coolant has time to cool down before it returns to the boiler; nearby radiators warm up better than distant ones.
3. The pressure in the system will increase. Air locks will not interfere with the normal circulation of the coolant.

We get acquainted with the unit - how it is arranged and works

The circulation apparatus makes warm water move along a closed heating stake. Its device is simple: a rotor with an impeller is installed on a stainless body. They rotate when the electric motor is running, the impeller draws water in and squeezes it out into the system from the other side. Centrifugal force creates a pressure that overcomes the resistance of the entire system.

Heating pumps are produced in two types: dry and wet. In dry ones, the rotor does not have contact with the coolant, their efficiency reaches 80%. It makes a lot of noise, so separate room with good sound insulation. Dry pumps require constant maintenance. It is necessary to constantly remove dust from the room, otherwise it may be drawn into the apparatus, and it will depressurize. Dry pumps also need to be constantly lubricated.

Despite the low efficiency of a wet circulation pump compared to a dry one - only 5% versus 80% - they are used much more often in everyday life. This is due to lower cost, almost silent operation, undemanding - care is practically not needed. The rotor and impeller are immersed in a coolant, which simultaneously lubricates the rubbing parts. Care is reduced to the removal of air by simply unscrewing the screw.

Choosing a device - what to look for

The correct operation of the pump with full power output and proper circulation in the system is ensured by its selection according to the required parameters. Increased power is not at all necessary for high-quality heating. Such a unit will emit increased noise, the cost is greater, it wears out faster. For right choice The optimally suited pump takes into account a number of important indicators of the system.

The calculation of the required power is made according to the formulas. The calculations are not very complicated, but the practical experience of users has led to a simplified approach that has justified itself. In this case, only two indicators are taken into account - the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the maximum height of the water rise. We study the marking of the pump, which on the plate may look different. For example, one of the accepted markings looks like this: 25-40/180. The first number indicates the diameter of the connecting pipe, the last number indicates the length of the set, which is almost always 180 mm, occasionally 130 mm.

These indicators are important for installation, and for power selection, we pay attention to the second number. In this case, 40 is the head, i.e. this device is capable of raising water by 4 m. Another marking method indicates H max (m) - the maximum height of the coolant rise in meters. The table below will help you choose your device. forced filing coolant of the required power.

The table is indicative, the sellers of a specialized store will help you choose the device more precisely, but it will not be superfluous to know the necessary parameters and be able to read the plate.

Choose a place for the pump - on the supply or on the return

Theoretically, a forced coolant supply device can be installed anywhere close to the boiler. It is able to withstand a maximum temperature of 110°. But in reality, this method is rarely resorted to, primarily for practical reasons. Of course, the water temperature in the boiler will not reach 110°C, but it can be close to it. Constant elevated temperatures will not add additional years to the pump life.

But this applies, first of all, to systems of a private house with old boilers without a thermostat, especially solid fuel ones, where water can even boil. IN modern boilers the operating temperature is maintained by a thermal relay, it rarely exceeds 60 °. Installing a circulation pump at the supply in this case will practically not shorten its service life. In addition, the water leaving the boiler is much cleaner than the one that enters through the return line. Even the filter that is installed with the pump cannot guarantee complete water purification.

The installation of a coarse filter together with a circulation pump is mandatory. The holes in it are very small, the smallest particles of rust and dirt can clog them.

Most of the recommendations still relate to the installation of the pump on the return line. This is justified by the fact that air is collected in the upper part of the boiler during operation, at the supply it is drawn out by a pump, a vacuum is created. There is a high probability that the boiler in this part will boil. On the return line, the water seems to be pressed into the boiler by the pump, no space with air is created. The boiler always remains completely filled.

The figure shows the installation diagram of the pump, where: 1 - heater, 2 - automatic air valve, 3 - thermal valve, 4 - heating battery, 5 - balancing valve, 6 - expansion tank, 7 - ball valve, 8 - filter, 9 - forced circulation device, 10 - pressure gauge, 11 - safety valve.

Tapping the pump into the system is possible both at the supply in an open system, and at the return to a closed system with a membrane expansion tank, but it is also possible into an open system. The unit must be installed between the boiler and the expansion tank. It is better to replace the conventional expansion tank with a membrane one at the same time as installing the circulation pump. closed type if the pump is to be installed on the return line. The water in it does not come into contact with the air, it remains clean, the pipes do not rust. The membrane tank is installed on the return before the circulation pump.

We mount the pumping unit - sequence and important points

Each installation is supplied with instructions, which we carefully study in order to correctly perform. We drain all the liquid from the system, cut off part of the pipe at the place where the heating pump is supposed to be installed. In many cases, it is necessary to clean the old system, which has accumulated dirt and rust. Through the drain tap, this is poorly done due to the small cross section of the hole, so we use the cut site. We connect a hose to one side, through which we supply water under pressure. On the other hand, water flows out, rinse until clean.

We install a bypass (bypass section) in the pump area. It is necessary in case of a pump breakdown or a power outage. Then the coolant will go through the main line, the valve in which we open manually. It is better to install an automatic one instead of a conventional ball valve, which reacts to a change in pressure in the system. We install two ball valves on the bypass on both sides of the pump to shut off the water for maintenance or remove it if necessary. On top of the bypass line we mount a valve for air release.

After installing the bypass, we mount the pump. We install the pump shaft horizontally, the more precisely, the better. If the position is not horizontal, only part of the rotor will be in the liquid, which will lead to a drop in power and even breakage. The terminal box is located at the top. The pump housing along the axis is securely fixed with connecting nodes. We treat the joints with a sealant, which will exclude the flow of liquid, air leakage and increase the performance of the device. When connecting the pump, we are guided by the insoles on the body, which indicate the direction of fluid flow.

A heating system designed exclusively for forced circulation will not be able to work when the electricity is turned off. For such cases, it is recommended to install additional power supplies.

By connecting electricity to the equipment, we exclude the possibility that moisture will get into the terminal box. If the unit is located on the supply line, it gets very hot, then we use heat-resistant wiring for connection. The cable must not touch the pipes, the pump housing. It is started from any side, except for the bottom, by rearranging the plugs. If the terminal box is located on the side, we start the cable from below. The device must be grounded.

After completing the installation work, we fill the system with coolant. We remove air from the pump by turning the central screw on the housing. When water appears, this will indicate the complete removal of air from the circulation pump. After that, we start the device. On the body of most pumps there is a knob for adjusting the power. We check the work in all modes. Some models are equipped with an electronic regulator.

The heater does not work - possible causes

Sometimes pumps break down or don't work well enough. The most common causes:

1. Installed incorrectly. The horizontal shaft is not maintained or it rotates in the wrong direction.
2. Incorrectly powered from the mains.
3. Air has collected in the pump. It must be vented through the central screw each time before starting.
4. Poorly purified water. The filter is clogged or incorrectly installed - marks indicating the direction of water movement are ignored.

Malfunctions are easier to prevent if you are careful during installation and start-up.

Modernization of the heating system with a pressurized coolant circulation device is designed not only to "equalize" the thermal regime in the entire residential building, create comfortable living conditions in each individual room and eliminate artificial circulation barriers - air congestion.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a circulation pump in a heating system

If you follow the recommendations below, you can easily install the circulation pump yourself:

1. Choice of installation location. It is rather difficult for a user who does not know the basic principles of hydraulics (the science of fluid movement) to independently determine the correct connection point for pumping equipment, which guarantees high-quality circulation of the coolant through all technical elements designed to transfer and receive heat in all heated rooms of a residential building, cottage. Some argue about the correct installation on the "supply", others categorically argue that it is strictly on the "return", that is, on the pipe through which the "waste" hot liquid returns to the heating device. Both sides present strong arguments in defense of their position.

Research and the science of the movement of fluids have proven that there is no fundamental difference in the installation locations of the pump, which affects the efficiency of the unit and system.

Exceptions are boilers for which they use solid fuel in the absence of appropriate automation. In such a heater, steam is released when the coolant overheats. The household pump is not intended for pumping steam, which rises through the pipe to the pump. The impeller of the pump operates in idle mode, the cooled liquid enters the boiler less, the amount of steam increases. The heating system does not work - the boiler boils. In this case, it is better to install the pump on the "return". For heaters operating on pellets, with the presence of installed automation, the place of installation of the pump is of no fundamental importance.

2. Flushing the heating system. Before starting the installation of the pump in the thermosiphon circuit that is currently in operation, it is necessary to drain the coolant and flush the entire system. If the system has not been flushed for 15-20 years, it is better to use special preparations.

It is known from practice that a home thermosyphon system in which water does not drain into summer time, has few deposits. As a rule, in cast iron batteries scale and dirt accumulate most of all. They must be dismantled for high-quality flushing. It is better to perform this procedure in the warm season on the street. Pipelines and appliances are washed using household pumping station, which is preferable to rent at a specialized rental point or use equipment that is not used for domestic drinking water supply.

3. Features of the installation of the pump. When installing the pump, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of its free maintenance or ease of dismantling. One of the most better ways pump settings - on the bypass. Bypass is a bypass section of the pipeline on which the pump is installed. During a power outage, after performing some switching, the heating system continues to work with natural circulation. To perform this function, the heating system must be mounted without counterslopes, which minimizes the hydraulic resistance of the entire circuit. With this installation, the pump works without artificially created overload, thereby extending the service life.

With the top wiring, the circulation pump is installed anywhere. But, as a rule, on the “return”, in front of the heating boiler and, without fail, with a cleaning filter in front of the pump, which cleans all the liquid entering the pump from the presence of scale, dirt, rust. When installing underfloor heating in an individual residential building, the injection equipment is installed on each branch separately, regardless of the presence of such common equipment.

When carrying out installation work on the pump with any type of pump, it is recommended to follow simple and important rules:

The pump is attached to the heat pipe using threaded connections cap nuts for ease of assembly and de installation work.
Strictly adhere to the direction of movement of the coolant flow indicated by an arrow on the pump housing.
Regardless of the location of the heat pipe (vertical, inclined, parallel to the floor), the injection device is installed so that the rotor axis is strictly horizontal.
The junction box with terminal connections must always be in the up position. This prevents the ingress of moisture in case of accidents and the convenience of electrical work.
The flap check valve is installed on a straight section of the pipeline, under the pump in a constant horizontal position. The spring valve creates additional resistance that affects the efficiency of the thermosyphon heating.
clipping Ball Valves are selected of improved quality, as they carry the load from the weight of the entire bypass: pump, filter, pipe.

The presented video clearly shows how and in what place it is correct to install, what are the basic requirements and features of its installation.

Rules for safe operation and installation

Before installing the circulation pump, it is recommended to read the instructions supplied by the manufacturer correct installation and operation. It is preferable that the bypass assembly and installation be carried out by a specialist of the appropriate direction and qualification.

All welding work on the pipelines is carried out before the installation of the pump. Before installing the pump, it is strongly recommended to flush the entire heating system. Residues of scale, rust, dirt impair the operation of the pump, contribute to the rapid wear of rotating parts. Anti-corrosion additives can only be added to the coolant certified for the product being installed.

Electric installation work

To prevent damage electric shock consumer:

connect only with a cable recommended by the manufacturer of the appropriate section and insulation;
the network connection must be mounted in strict accordance with the pointers on the connection terminals ("zero", "phase", "ground");
lay the power cable so that it does not come into contact with the pipeline, pump housing, electric motor;
the terminal box on the pump must be closed;
pump equipment to be grounded.

All inspection work maintenance, the operation of pumping equipment is carried out with the power supply of both the pump and the equipment with which it is connected disconnected.

When buying a pump for individual use, you need to make sure that all parameters match each other. non-compliance simple rules installation, operation of the pump, as well as safety rules leads to premature failure of the unit, deterioration in performance, poses a danger to the life of the consumer.

Due to failures in individual heating systems, private houses are often heated unevenly, with some rooms barely heated, while others are too hot. To solve this problem, circulation pumps are used. To work with the greatest efficiency, it is necessary to correctly select and install the pump in your own heating system.

Reasons for installing additional equipment

Proportional distribution of heat in a residential building can be achieved in two ways: increase the diameter of the heating system pipes or install a pump in an existing heating system.

The first method is effective, but requires the dismantling and reinstallation of all heating pipes in the house. The circulation pump will solve the problem of uniform heat supply easier, cheaper and much faster.

Device and principle of operation

Circulation pumps are needed to create additional water pressure in closed heating systems. Such a mechanism is built into a stainless steel case, on which a steel rotor or motor is attached.

An impeller is installed on the motor shaft, which is responsible for the forced circulation of the coolant.

Such equipment installed in the heating system creates additional pressure due to centrifugal force and increase water pressure.

Classification

Aggregates are of two types. The first type is "dry" pumps. In equipment of this type, the coolant and the rotor do not interact with each other. The working part of the rotor is isolated and separated from the engine by stainless steel sealing rings. When starting, the rings move, a thin film of water seals the connections due to different pressures in the system and in the environment.

The efficiency of a "dry" unit is about 80%. This equipment is very sensitive to contamination of the water in the system, and if small particles enter, it quickly fails. The dry type pump is quite noisy, so when installing it, you should take care of the soundproofing of the room.

"Wet" pumps differ in their design from "dry" ones. Its impeller is located directly in the coolant. The stator and the moving part of the mechanism are separated by a special glass that provides waterproofing of the engine. "Wet" units are cheaper to operate and repair, they are quieter than "dry" ones.

The disadvantages of wet type equipment include their low efficiency - only about 50%. This is due to the low sealing of the sleeve separating the stator and coolant. Although even such a performance is quite enough for heating any private house.

Criterias of choice

The first important indicator when choosing a pump is its power. For high-quality heating, you should choose a device with exactly the power that will be enough for heating. Pumps that are more expensive and powerful are not needed for an ordinary residential building - they still will not turn on at full load.

To calculate the optimal power, the following parameters should be taken into account: the temperature of the coolant at the inlet and outlet, pressure, throughput, performance of the heating boiler.

counting

The flow rate of the coolant can be equated to the power of the boiler. For example, a heating unit with a power of 30 kW drives 30 liters of coolant in 1 minute.

The simplest formula for calculating the optimal pump power is as follows:
Q= N/(T2 – T1),
in this formula, N is the boiler power, and T2 and T1 are the difference in water temperatures at the outlet of the tank and in the return.

The pressure is calculated based on the footage of the heated area. According to generally accepted standards, a pump power of about 100 W is required per 100 m2 of a residential building.

Installation

Installation of the circulation pump is carried out as follows. First you need to carefully study the instructions and the diagram according to which it should be connected. The boiler and all heating equipment needs regular inspection and prevention, so you need to prepare an approach to the main components of the devices in advance. Then it is necessary to drain all the coolant and clean the pipeline, after which you can decide on the installation site.

So, experts recommend installing this equipment near the boiler, on the return pipe. This position is explained by two reasons: the pump installed in this place will allow more even distribution of the coolant in the boiler, which means increasing the efficiency of the entire heating system. In addition, on the return line, the circulation pump will operate at a lower operating temperature, which will increase its service life.

A bypass (bypass) is performed on the sector selected for installation. This operation is necessary so that the system continues to circulate even when the power is turned off or the pumping equipment breaks down.

The diameter of the pipe of the bypass system must be less than the diameter of the pipes of the main gas pipeline. Only after the installation of the bypass proceed to the installation of the unit.

A drawing with the technology for installing a circulation pump is shown in this diagram:

Installation Features

It must be remembered that the shaft must be located horizontally. If installed incorrectly, the circulation pump loses up to 30% of its performance, and can fail within a short time. The terminal box must be installed at the top of the system.

Ball valves must be inserted on both sides of the unit - they will definitely be needed in the future, with regular technical inspections and scheduled repairs.

In the heating system, filters must also be provided to purify water in pipelines from various solid particles. The latter, when they enter the pumping equipment, lead to its serious damage.

A valve is mounted on top of the bypass pipe to bleed air from the heating system. When mounting the motor shaft, it is necessary to provide for the rotation of the box along the axis with little effort. An expansion tank must be installed in an open heating system.

To exclude an arbitrary change in the flow of water, shutoff valves are attached in the inlet-outlet area of the circulation pump. The connecting nodes must be treated with a "sealant", one hundred will increase the performance of the entire heating system.

In order to quickly and correctly install the pump pump, you need selected connections and threads. To reduce the time it takes to search for all the necessary parts, look in plumbing stores for a special device with already selected fasteners. After the installation process of the pumping unit is completed, the system is filled with water or other coolant.

Before starting the system, open the central valve to remove air locks- the water that appears will notify you of the complete removal of air from the system.

About quantity and breakdowns

The number of circulation pumps required to heat a private house can be determined based on the entire length of the pipeline. If its length is about 80 m, then one is enough. If this length is exceeded, consider increasing the number of pumps in the system.

The reasons for the failure of the circulation pumps can be improper installation, arbitrary location of the cable connection and terminal module, as well as non-compliance with the rules for operating the heating boiler. To avoid malfunctions, it is important not to ignore the procedures for regular air release and take care of a good cleaning of the system from mechanical particles.

But it should be remembered that all breakdowns of the circulation pump must be corrected by specialists. Therefore, if malfunctions have already appeared and are detected, it is best to contact the repair service.

Before the owners country houses often the question arises about the uniform distribution of heat throughout the house.

There are two ways to achieve this thermal effect:

re-equip the heating system by replacing pipes with a large diameter;
make the installation.

If we consider these two methods from the point of view of economic benefits, then the first option will be more costly and very expensive. Installing a circulating pump will prove to be an effective and relatively inexpensive means of evenly heating your home.

Let's talk in more detail about what a pump of this type is and how to install it.

Purpose

This type of units is intended for forced circulation of the coolant in a closed heating system.

The pressure that is created by the circulating pump must effectively cope with the hydraulic load of all elements of the heating system.

Therefore, in order to provide the necessary pressure for the circulation of the coolant, you need to choose the right circulation pump.

Calculation principle

To ensure maximum comfort in the house, you need to correctly calculate the required amount of thermal energy.

Installing a heat pump for heating a private house:

This calculation is based on the following points:

weather conditions in the region;
coefficient of thermal conductivity of building materials from which the house is built;
arrangement of floor structures and ceilings of the dwelling;
heat-conducting properties of windows;
placement of the building relative to the cardinal points and so on.

The result of the calculations should be the volume of coolant supply in heating, which is measured in cubic meters at one o'clock. This indicator will become fundamental when choosing.

The scheme and nuances of the assembly

The tie-in of the circulation pump into the heating system must be carried out using a bypass or bypass. A bypass is a pipeline parallel to the main one, into which the circulation unit crashes.

The bypass is carried out with the aim that in the event of a pump malfunction or a power outage, the heating system could work offline.

Important point: the size of the bypass pipes must be smaller than the diameter of the main piping.

The outline consists of the following elements:

Two stopcocks, which are located on both sides of the pump (in the event of a breakdown of the device, you can close the locks and dismantle the pump for troubleshooting)
A coarse filter is installed in order to purify the coolant from clogging impurities that can affect the smooth operation of the coolant.

Advantages and features of installation heat pump water-water:

Take note: when installing the pump, you should pay attention to the direction of movement of the coolant in the system. As a rule, an arrow is indicated on the pump housing for correct installation.

So, knowing all the characteristics of circulation pumps, as well as the nuances of installation, in the general case, the following installation steps can be distinguished:

calculation of the necessary thermal energy for heating the house;
selection of a circulating pump according to calculations;
choice of pump insertion point;
connecting a bypass with a pump to the system;
coolant injection;
starting the heating system and bleeding air through the central screw of the pump.

You must always follow the rules for installing and operating pumping units, otherwise no one will guarantee the correct distribution of thermal energy in your cozy home.

Watch the video in which an experienced user explains in detail how to properly install a circulation pump in a home heating system:

The basic rule for creating any heating main is: the longer the line, the worse the water circulation in the system. For this reason, there are problems with uneven heating of rooms. The easiest and most convenient way is to install the pump in the heating system of a private house.

Why connect a pump?

Gravity heating is based on the principle of communicating vessels: the water in the upper reservoir is heated by a gas burner and begins to flow through the pipes, passes through all the batteries and returns to the lower reservoir, from which it again enters the heating chamber. Using a natural circulation system, it is necessary to provide a height difference sufficient for a good coolant current.

In practice, this is extremely difficult to do, therefore, heating with natural circulation is characterized by a small heating area, a maximum of 60-80 m². For large, and even more so 2 or 3-storey houses, a tie-in water circulation pump will definitely be required. This will ensure uniform distribution of the coolant along the entire length of the heating system.

In addition, due to the installation of the pump, fuel consumption is reduced. Water passes through the system faster, accordingly, it does not have time to cool too much and less heat energy is required to reheat it.

An alternative option is to install pipes of a larger diameter. But in this case, the total cost of materials and work will be much higher, in addition, for houses with an area of more than 200 m², this still does not completely solve the problem.

How to choose a circulation pump?

In the cold season, the device operates 24/7. Low-quality options will not withstand the load and will quickly become unusable. To avoid this, you need to know the selection criteria:

pipe diameter;
throughput of the boiler;
water temperature;
total displacement of the system.

The pressure in the system depends on the diameter. Therefore, you need to know how many atmospheres the pump is designed for. It is better to buy with a margin, at the time of the first start-up of the system and air bleeding, water hammer is possible - short-term periods of pressure increase. If the device is picked up butt, it will break. In addition, the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump must match the diameter of the system. Otherwise, you will have to buy adapters and other fittings.

Some boilers heat 2-5 liters per minute, others - 10-20 liters. In order for the device to cope with the volumes, it must have the appropriate bandwidth, otherwise the pump will not cope and the device will fail.

Manufacturers make products using various technologies, the cheaper the pump, the lower the quality of the spare parts. Individual units are not always designed for temperatures above +60-70°C. In regions with cold winters, where the coolant is supplied at a temperature of + 75-85 ° C, this fact must be taken into account.

One of the main elements of the circulation pump is the motor. When choosing a device, you need to understand how many liters per cycle will be pumped. The motor resource must be selected with a margin, in addition, it is better to install a device that has built-in overheating protection.

Types of pumps

Heating systems use 2 types of pumps:

dry;
wet.

The first option is large industrial pumps that are used for heating systems of large plants, factories or apartment buildings. They are noisy, take up a lot of space and are more expensive than their counterparts. The main plus is high power. It is recommended to install only for objects such as private hotels and boarding houses.

Wet pumps are designed specifically for tapping into a heating system. They work directly in the aquatic environment, so all components are resistant to corrosion and moisture.

The motor and other electrical parts are insulated with rubber gaskets. Therefore, when choosing a device, it is not recommended to purchase models from the market. They could be in the sun for a long time, respectively, the rubber dried out and the device would burn out in 2-3 months, since the water would flood the motor.

Choosing a place to install the pump

How to install the pump in the heating system? The main thing is to choose the right place. Basic instructions are included with the device. In addition, there are general recommendations:

Tap into the system in places where the pump will be easily accessible. There should be plenty of free space around so that diagnostics or repairs do not cause problems.
The direction of the water supply does not really matter, but it is better to install the pump on a hot branch. This will ensure uniform distribution of the coolant throughout the heating system.
Most often, the pump is placed near expansion tank. This is convenient and practical, since it is possible to check both nodes at once and, if necessary, repair or replace parts. When figuring out where to put the pump, you also need to remember that the device makes noise during operation. Therefore, the place should be located at a distance from living rooms.

Tools and Consumables

Proper connection of the pump means preliminary training the necessary inventory. For work you will need:

2 plumbing or 2 Swedish keys of the appropriate diameter;
fum tape 10 mm;
3 ball valves;
2 tees.

The basic set may differ depending on the type of pipes used.

For efficient heat distribution, it is better to connect the circulation pump before the start of the heating season. In this case, you can immediately check how efficiently it works.

Circulation pump installation steps

The procedure is simple and consists of 3 steps:

tie-in;
connection;
examination.

Consider options for how to mount the pump on metal or plastic pipes. These options are different from each other.

Cutting into a metal pipe

To save time and do everything right right away, you need to:

Check the system for the presence of water and, if necessary, drain the residue.
Select the part of the pipe where the unit will be installed.
Mark the points on the pipe for the entry of the pump pipes.
Weld in 2 threaded pipes.

The first point is mandatory, if water flows into the welding process, there will be big problems, since the seams will not seize correctly.

At the second stage, you need to check the selected section of the pipe for strength, inspect so that rust does not show through. If everything is in order with this, marking is done according to the formula pump length plus 10-15 cm.

It remains to drill holes in the pipe and weld the pipes. Tap the seam with a hammer to knock off the scale and check the strength of the structure. During the welding process, the welded sockets must be strong, make sure that the thickness of the seam is the same along the entire radius. The pump does not literally cut into the heating system, but is screwed to the nozzles with special fittings. Before twisting, you need to wind the thread with fuma.

Connection to a plastic pipe

The connection diagram of the circulation pump differs only in the absence of welding, first a tee, then a branch pipe. For maximum reliability, it is recommended to use the pipe soldering method. This will remove corrosion-prone elements from the structure. In addition, metal nuts in the case of tightening often give microcracks, through which water then leaks.

Also, for both schemes, it is necessary to install an additional ball valve in the area between the nozzles. This is done so that it is always possible to redirect water from the pump directly to the system. Accordingly, the device can be removed for repair or replaced without shutting down the entire heating system.

Installation of ball valves on the branch pipe

Cranes are installed, at first only the side that enters the branch pipe is installed, always on the thread. For metal pipes, there will be no problem, if the tap diameter is different, just screw the adapter. For plastic pipes special fittings must be used.

They are either soldered to the pipe through a connector and an additional socket with an assembled fitting, or fixed directly in the pipe using special clamp nuts. The second way is less reliable.

Why do we need a crane, consider in more detail. If, even after installing the pump, heat is distributed unevenly, or problems appeared during operation, it means that the pump cannot cope with pumping.

Accordingly, it is necessary to remove the pump and carry out diagnostics. If you do not install stopcocks, this will not work, as you will have to stop the boiler and drain all the water. If there are taps, it is enough to shut them off, and the water will go along the old branch, and the pump will be suitable for dismantling.

Pump installation

When the nozzles are installed, it remains only to screw the pump to the taps. To do this, wrap the thread with fuma and tighten the nuts. Often the corners are included. Therefore, they are immediately screwed to the pump. If there were no components in the box, you need to separately purchase corners of the appropriate diameter and screw them to the inlet and outlet pipes.

It is not recommended to overtighten the nuts so that they do not burst. It is better to wait until the start and check for leaks. You can tighten the fasteners later. In this case, any scheme for installing a circulation pump in a heating system can be used, but it is necessary to strictly follow the basic principles and follow the sequence of actions.

System start

After completing all installation work, the resulting design must be checked. In this case, the system starts first without a pump. This is a prerequisite, otherwise water hammer will begin to occur in the pipes, which, at best, will damage the connections in the pipes, and at worst, break one or more batteries.

Air penetrates into the pipes of an open heating system, it can circulate along the entire length of the pipeline and fill the voids. This leads to the fact that traffic jams appear that interfere with the normal passage of water. To get rid of the problem, you need to bleed the air and only then start the pump.

Then you can move on to testing.

The procedure is done like this:

Turn off the valve on the supply line.
Open the tap on the supply pipe and wait 30-40 seconds for the water to fill the pump.
Open the tap on the outlet pipe.
Turn on the device.

The important point is that the temperature of the coolant must be increased gradually. When heated, all bodies expand, if boiling water is immediately put into the system, the connections will not have time to win back smoothly and leaks will appear. To avoid this, increase the water temperature from +40 to +70°C gradually.

up to 100 m² - by 5 ° every 10 minutes;
up to 200 m² - by 5 ° every 30 minutes;
300 m² or more - by 10° every hour.

This will allow you to evenly warm the entire line.

System check

For normal water circulation, the heating system needs to warm up. It takes 2-3 hours. Wait for the indicated time and feel each battery, they should all be the same temperature.

If you find something hotter or colder, try deflated. For overheated batteries, it is necessary to bleed in the subsequent radiator, for cold ones - in the previous one. Most likely, the problem will be solved.

Other possible reason- leak. Carefully inspect the junctions of the batteries with the pipe. Even if there are no obvious puddles, water may appear at the joints. Change the connection and the problem will go away.

The last uncharacteristic moment is extraneous noise in the pump. In new models, this problem only occurs if foreign objects, rust or other debris get into the pump. To avoid this, it is recommended to put a filter on the supply pipe. Eliminated by disassembling and cleaning the pump.

Installing the pump is easy, the procedure takes from 30 minutes to an hour. Starting the system is longer, but also will not cause much difficulty, but there are still a few operational issues:

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the position of the pump relative to the horizon. A prerequisite for the device to serve for a long time is that the motor shaft must be located either at an angle of 90 ° or at 180 °. Any misalignment will cause the bearings to wear 2 to 5 times faster.
The main disadvantage of the circulation pump is that it does not work without electricity. If the owners are at home, it is not difficult to come and switch the tap, but in the case when they are not there, the house will not be heated.

To solve this problem, it is recommended to use ball valves with check valve. The device works in this way: water is supplied to the pump until the pressure at the inlet and outlet is the same. If the outlet pressure drops, the valve switches the water supply to the self-flowing line.

This method will not provide the same high-quality circulation of the coolant in the system, but the house will still be heated. During the day, the lack of heat will not cause much harm, but if the lights were turned off during the holidays, and the owners were not at home for 5-10 days, the water in the pipes would freeze and they would burst.

Don't forget to clean the mud pans. IN metal pipes lots of rust and salt deposits. The water circulation rate after turning on the pump will increase by 1.5-3 times, respectively, all the dirt will go straight to the pump. At the beginning of operation it is recommended to carry out cleaning once a week.

If after the specified time the filter is clean, then most of the debris has already been washed away. And the procedure can be repeated 2 times a year: after stopping the system for the summer and a week after the start.

Bearings are erased in 3-4 years in operating mode 6 through 6. If the pump operates in northern temperatures, 8-9 months a year, its resource will last for 2 years maximum. A sure sign that it's time to change the bearings is the appearance of noise in the pump. This is because the shaft begins to rotate with play, as a result, the load on the housing and all parts increases.

To avoid damage to the entire pump, it is enough to disassemble it and replace the bearing rings. These components are inexpensive, and the work itself takes 20-30 minutes. Remember, the device should work without diagnostics for no more than 2 years, this will avoid costly repairs.

Powerful boilers quickly heat water, but due to the diameter of the pipes, it takes a long time for it to reach the batteries by gravity. The pump solves this problem if it is connected to the supply line. On the other side, hot water negatively affects most nodes, so the device breaks down faster.

When there is no task to warm up the house as quickly as possible, and the main emphasis is on durability, it is recommended to install the pump on a line with cold water. In practice, this will extend the life of the device by 2-3 years.

Using these simple recommendations, you can maximize the life of the device. A pump for a private house heating system is a convenient and practical thing, if there are problems with heat distribution, you should not think for a long time. Determine the parameters of the system and buy the right model.