How to make a hood in the toilet and bathroom with your own hands: instructions, photos and videos. Extractor hood for a bathroom in a private house: types, check valve, installation and installation How to make ventilation in the bathroom

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is a prerequisite, since it is in these rooms that the general humidity of the air is increased and unpleasant odors are usually present. If ventilation system is not installed or does not work efficiently enough, then in the bathroom rooms not only a persistent smell will remain, but also a favorable microclimate will quickly be created for the development of mold and fungus, which are very difficult to fight.

Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise up, and if they do not find a way out, then most of the evaporation will sit on the surface of the ceiling and the upper part of the walls, where black spots of microflora colonies can most often be seen. We must not forget that any fungus reproduces by spores that are released into the air. Together with the air, they are then inhaled by the household, and this can lead to allergic reactions, diseases. respiratory system, asthma and other serious ailments.

Basically, the issue of effective implementation is faced by the owners of private houses, since in high-rise buildings this is pre-planned in the building project, and the ventilation ducts are wired to the bathroom and kitchen. However, the information can also be useful for apartment owners - the “regular” ventilation system does not always fully cope with its duties, and certain adjustments need to be made to its work.

Types of ventilation systems

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with existing systems room ventilation.

Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.

Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from the area high blood pressure to a lower one, that is, without applying special devices and devices. It is this type of ventilation that is designed in the apartments of most multi-storey buildings. The size of the ventilation windows (vents) in the bathroom and toilet (separate or combined) and in the kitchen, the configuration and throughput of the ventilation risers are designed in such a way as to create a natural movement of air from the living quarters with the required amount of air exchange.

Forced ventilation involves the installation of fans. Very often, such a system is installed in bathrooms and kitchens of private houses. However, some homeowners in high-rise buildings, wanting to improve the ventilation of the premises, install a fan in the conditions of the apartment.

In addition, forced ventilation systems are divided, depending on their main functions, into the following types:

Exhaust ventilation. In this system, air rising under the ceiling is drawn in by a fan and discharged through special channels to the street. Typically, such a scheme is used in combination with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.

For example, this illustration shows an option that is carried out by means of air intake from the street, with its further forced removal through the kitchen and sanitary facilities.

- in this system, the fan works to supply air, and its exit for a full cycle of ventilation is carried out naturally through the ventilation ducts. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is rarely used - here it is more important to create conditions for the effective exit of air to the outside in the required volume.
The supply and exhaust system implies both the injection of air into the premises, and its forced removal from them. It is typical for volumetric structures, for large-area houses, in which the possibilities of natural inflow and outflow of air are clearly not enough.

Fan types

Since the exhaust ventilation system is the most effective for a residential building, with natural air flow through the “clean” living quarters and its forced removal through the kitchen and bathroom, it is worth saying a few words about exhaust fans. They are divided into types according to their places of installation - these are axial, channel, roof and radial.

Axial wall (overhead) fans.

An axial fan consists of a housing in the form of a cylinder, inside which there is a wheel with cantilever blades mounted on the axis of the electric motor. When rotating, the blades capture air and activate its removal from the room.

This type of appliance is fixed in the window of the ventilation duct on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very easy to install due to a well-thought-out design, and looks quite aesthetically pleasing, so it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private house and in apartment conditions.

Duct fans.

Inline axial fans are used in household practice not so long ago and not as widely as overhead axial fans, since they self-assembly complicated enough. However, sometimes they cannot be dispensed with, for example, in cases where the area of the ventilated room is more than 15 m².

Duct fans are also installed in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the operation of the device in the bathroom or other rooms of a private house.

This type of fan can be installed in various parts of the ventilation duct. It is placed in a special box-shaped case, or it can itself be a connecting element for two parts of the ventilation pipe. It is very important that the device is freely accessible, as it must be periodically cleaned and lubricated.

There are three types of air ducts in which duct fans are installed - they are flexible, semi-rigid and rigid.

Flexible channels are mounted quite easily, so they are chosen most often. However, they are less reliable and have a much shorter service life than rigid or semi-rigid ducts. A zealous owner will certainly make a choice in favor of reliability.

Radial fans.

The radial fan consists of a motor located on the axis of rotation of a wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box, which has a characteristic spiral shape.

During operation, the fan blades begin to rotate, capturing air from the room, which from the fan enters through the outlet of the casing into the duct.

For installation in residential buildings it is recommended to choose centrifugal fans with backward curved blades. Although they have slightly lower pressure ratings, such devices are distinguished by better “linearity” in adjustments, a large operating range and, most importantly, are not as noisy as compared to fans with forward-curved blades.

Radial fans tolerate high loads well and are quite economical in operation.

Roof fans.

As you can already understand from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of multi-apartment and private residential buildings.

The design of the roof fan includes such elements as a motor, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration isolating (damper) pads, and an auto-regulation device.

The roof fan can be of axial, multi-bladed or radial design. The latter is the most in demand, as it is the least whimsical and provides high performance with minimal energy costs.

Forced ventilation systems can operate both in automatic and manual modes, have one pumping level or several speeds.

Unregulated ventilation has only two regime positions: "on" and "off".
A system that has several speeds that are selected by a switch will become more flexible.
Variable speed fans are the most economical in operation, in which the impeller is given a rotational speed corresponding to the required current load on the system. The change in speed occurs quite smoothly, with the help of special automatic control and management units.

Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation

It's time to move on to the issue of choosing the necessary and the toilet. But immediately the main question will arise about its most important characteristic - performance, that is, the ability to pump a certain amount of air per unit time.

It will be difficult to understand this aspect if, for a start, you do not familiarize yourself with the basic standards for the organization of ventilation in a residential building or apartment.

It is necessary to rely on this issue on the main guiding documents - the relevant sections and annexes of SNiP 41-01-2003 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.08.01-89 * (“Residential buildings”).

According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system must be installed in those rooms where it is necessary according to sanitary standards, but natural ventilation, that is, a window or a window, is absent in them or ordinary ventilation is not enough.

In order not to refer the reader to the SNiP tables, the following is a summary of the information that will be required to calculate ventilation.

Room type	Ventilation rates		Notes
	Air intake from outside	Exhaust air outside
Residential premises	The air exchange rate is not less than 0.35 times / hour, but at the same time the intake is not less than 30 m³ per person.	-	The calculation is based on the total volume of the entire apartment (house) or on the number of people actually living
Residential premises	3 m³ for every 1 m² of living space	-	The calculation is based on the area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises of the house
Kitchen
with electric stove	-	Not less than 60 m³/hour
with 2 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 60 m³/hour
with 3 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 75 m³/hour
with 4 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 90 m³/hour
Bathroom	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 25 m³/hour
Separate restroom	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 25 m³/hour
Bathroom combined (bathroom + toilet) individual	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 50 m³/hour

There are, of course, norms in SNiP for more specific visits: dryers, ironing, dedicated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, they are not of particular interest to us - we will talk about average apartments or houses. You can completely limit yourself to the values \u200b\u200bgiven above.

But why do we need to know the indicators of natural supply ventilation in the premises of a residential area? But the fact is that an apartment or a house should be considered as a single balanced "organism". To be effective, and the bathroom, toilet and kitchen rooms are constantly ventilated with air coming from the living area, the exhaust devices installed in them must be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of air drawn out cannot be less than the incoming one. There is such a thing as the air balance equation, and when choosing ventilation units, it is necessary to strive for its maximum observance.

∑Qadj. = ∑Qvy.

∑Qadj.- the required total volume of air supplied with supply ventilation.

∑Qout.– required performance exhaust ventilation.

Failure to comply with this equality in one direction or another may cause undesirable consequences- stagnation of air, penetration of odors from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom, into living rooms, accumulation of dampness in the corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.

Constantly misted windows are a sign of poor ventilation.

The ever-wet surface of the glass on the windows is half the trouble, only an external sign of a rather serious problem. , and what needs to be done in this case - read in a special publication of our portal.

To determine the right side of our equation, we will have to carry out calculations for the required air flow.

The most correct approach would be to calculate according to three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each resident, according to the frequency of air exchange by the volume of the entire house or apartment, and according to the standards for each meter of living space. Then it remains to compare the results and choose the maximum indicator - it will become the required value of air flow for high-quality ventilation.

Well, then, based on the value obtained, it will be possible to proceed to the distribution of volumes of forced exhaust ventilation in order to achieve the desired equality.

For example, the calculation for a house with a total area of 120 square meters.

Do you have problems with the area calculation?

Usually the area is easiest to take from the existing house plan. If for some reason it is not there, but you will have to calculate it yourself. In a special publication of the portal, various examples are considered - from the simplest rectangular rooms to rooms of an unusual complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are placed for quick and accurate calculation.

For the convenience of calculations, you can make a small table:

House premises	Air intake from outside			Outlet to the street
Other data and calculation progress	According to sanitary standards for living people	According to the frequency of air exchange from the total volume of premises	According to the norms per 1 m² of usable area	Set minimum	Required in the real world
Number of residents	5 people	-	-	-	-
Living room	-	21 m²	21 m²	-	-
Bedroom 1	-	16 m²	16 m²	-	-
Bedroom 2	-	14 m²	14 m²	-	-
Children's	-	17 m²	17 m²	-	-
Dining room	-	15 m²	15 m²	-	-
Kitchen ( gas stove 4 burners)	-	12 m²	-	90 m³ / hour	150 m³ / hour
Hallway	-	5 m²	-	-	-
Hall	-	9 m²		-	-
Corridor	-	3 m²	-	-	-
Bathroom	-	6 m²	-	25 m³/h	50 m³ / hour
bathroom	-	2 m²	-	25 m³/h	50 m³ / hour
Total area	-	120 m²	83 m²	-	-
Ceiling height	-	3.1 m	-	-	-
Volume in total	-	120 × 3.1 = 372 m³	-	-	-
established norm	30 m³/hour	0.35 times/hour	3 m³/1 m²	-	-
Calculation	5 x 30 = 150	372 x 0.35 = 130.2	83 x 3 = 249	90 + 25 + 25 = 140	150 + 50 + 50 = 250
Need for standards	150 m³/hour	130.2 m³/h		140 m³/h

So, out of the three calculated values, we accept the maximum - 249 m³ / h, since it fully meets all the conditions. We round it up to 250 m³ / h, and bring to this value the total exhaust ventilation performance in the kitchen, in the bathroom and in the bathroom.

The kitchen should be given more - it has a larger area and ventilation standards in this room are tougher. In our case, it can take 150 m³ / hour. This can be a total of ventilation + kitchen, but only if the hood works with air being removed to the outside, and not on the principle of recirculation.

The remaining 100 m³ / h can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and the toilet (if it is planned to install axial fans individual for each room). Or, in the case when these rooms are combined with one exhaust system, you can install a common duct or radial fan of appropriate capacity. It is obvious that such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite sufficient in comparison with the minimum standards, even with a good margin.

So, all conditions are fully met, and the required performance ventilation unit also already defined.

Other criteria for choosing a bathroom and toilet fan

It is very important to know what else you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:

The level of noise generated during operation. The operation of any ventilation device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound vibrations propagate through the air, through air ducts and wall surfaces inside which they are laid.

Mechanical noise arises from the vibration of the impeller with blades, the electric motor and the casing in which the entire structure is installed.

Aerodynamic noise appears as a result of vortex formation inside the casing at the impeller, at the inlet and outlet of air, when it moves through the air ducts, and also during the occurrence of pulsations.

Increased vibration and noise of the ventilation unit can adversely affect the well-being of the residents of an apartment or house.

Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain restrictions on the generated noise pressure, and this parameter itself must be indicated in the product passport (often even within a certain range of distance from the device).

If a fan is purchased with the ability to adjust the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then preference should be given to a device that will cope with the necessary task of extracting the required air volume not at its maximum, but by about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 of its inherent capabilities. So the equipment will last longer, and the noise level will decrease significantly - high speeds are most often the main cause of noise.

It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one design or another on many fans - be sure to take this into account when choosing.

Another important point noise reduction is the installation of a fan with provided straight sections to stabilize the air flow, reducing turbulent phenomena. For a duct or radial fan, it is desirable to leave such sections on both sides (for an axial, of course, this is impossible to fully observe). The length of each such section must be at least 1.5 of the outer diameter of the impeller (turbine).

Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.

Axial conventional fans can be operated manually, or they are built into the general lighting system of the room, that is, when the light is turned on, the exhaust fan also turns on.

The latter option is more convenient and economical, but some caution is required here so that when the device is turned off, the entire ventilation system of the house as a whole does not suffer. The outflow of air from the residential area in the minimum required volume must be ensured at all times.

The automatic design of the device assumes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer, on which the turn-on time, operating modes and the fan off time are set.

Device safety. Since the fan is powered by electricity, devices protected from moisture are selected for bathrooms, on the packaging of which there should be a corresponding label.

When choosing a fan, it is worth checking the availability of a quality certificate for the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices in specialized stores, preferably - models well-known manufacturers, the brand of which in itself gives a certain guarantee for the products. Do not hesitate to ask for the necessary sales marks in the product passport to ensure further warranty and service maintenance.

TOP 9 best bathroom fans

	Name	Rating
The best overhead fans
#1	Vents VNV-1 80 KV	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Cata E-120 GTH	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Electrolux EAFR	⭐ 97 / 100 1 - voice
#4	Soler & Palau Silent-100 CZ Design	⭐ 96 / 100
Best duct fans
#1	Blauberg Turbo 315	⭐ 99 / 100 1 - voice
#2	Vents Quietline 100	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Era Profit 5	⭐ 97 / 100
The best backlit fans
#1	Cata E-100 GLT	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Blauberg Lux 125	⭐ 98 / 100

Self-installation of ventilation

Installing a fan in the bathroom or toilet of an apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system in multi-storey buildings is already installed, and the device will only increase the exhaust air exhaust along with unpleasant odors and humidity.

It is more difficult to install a ventilation system in a private house. But doing it yourself is also quite possible. Of course, it is best to install all elements of the system at the construction stage, but it is often necessary to carry out these installation work and in the finished building.

Elements of the ventilation system

If the type of ventilation system is determined, then it is necessary to prepare all the elements necessary for it according to previously taken dimensions.

The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into the wall or ceiling, as well as into the air duct. The device is usually built into the air duct in the case of the planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even separated) from each other, then in each of the rooms it will be possible to arrange its own ventilation hole, from which ducts or pipes are removed, which are then connected to a single duct equipped with a duct or radial roof fan.
Air ducts can be made of plastic or metal, have a round or rectangular cross section. Each of them has its own advantages, for example, the rectangular version is more convenient to mount to the ceiling or wall, it can ideally be located above the suspended or stretch ceiling. The round section provides more efficient air removal, as it does not have internal corners that hinder its smooth movement or cause turbulence.

Rectangular air ducts are easier to attach to walls and flow, but round ones are less “noisy”

Swivel elbows are used when using rigid boxes. They are installed in complex structures, when changing the direction of the air ducts, when exiting through a wall or ceiling, and in other cases, in accordance with the installation plan.
Couplings are used to interface individual sections of the duct.
A non-return valve is installed in order to avoid backflow of air when the fan is off, or, for example, when strong wind on the street.
Elements for fixing air ducts. To do this, you can use homemade or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500 ÷ 700 mm, depending on the location.
Ventilation grilles installed on the inlet and outlet of the system will be required in cases where a duct fan is selected, installed between two parts of the duct. One ventilation grill will be needed to mount it on the outlet of the system when installing an overhead axial fan.

Installation of the ventilation system

The installation of the ventilation system is carried out in different ways, depending on the chosen design, and on whether it is being updated or reinstalled. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation, you should draw up detailed diagram which will be easier to work with.

If it is decided to upgrade an already installed ventilation system, it is best, if possible, to replace the air duct with a new one. In the event that this cannot be done, it will be necessary to carefully clean the old duct from debris and deposits on the stacks.
Before laying the ventilation duct, you must first determine the installation location of the fan. Optimal location the installation of the device will be the wall opposite the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural intake of air in the form of a draft.
The next step in the wall is cut through a new one or, if necessary, expanded to the right sizes an existing ventilation window.
The ventilation duct is brought out into the arranged hole, then it is gradually mounted, laid in accordance with the scheme and fixed in the attic of the building, or it is carried out through attic floor and roof.
If the channel is brought to the street through outer wall, it is recommended to install a pipe into the ventilation hole from the side of the street, which is raised vertically by at least 500 ÷ 1000 mm. If on through hole install only a protective grill, then the room will not have time to heat up when the heating system is operating - all the heat will quickly leave through the ventilation with a draft.

The ventilation pipe leading through the roof of the building requires a reliable waterproofing device. For this purpose, you can use special waterproofing cuffs that are put on the pipe and fixed on the roof.

Another option for installing the system is to mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugated pipe), which is connected to an outlet covered by a protective grill installed under the roof soffit. This installation method is possible both in combination with false ceiling, and without it, since the box may well pass through the attic.

In the case of installing a complex ventilation system, when the bathroom rooms are separated, and the ventilation needs to be connected to one common duct, you can proceed as shown in this diagram. Inserts with branch pipes are installed in the common ventilation duct, which will go into the rooms through the false ceiling, and the air duct itself can be brought outside through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, ducted or installed from the side of the street and closed with a special casing.

After holding and fixing the air ducts, you need to carefully install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and fixed on the wall in a convenient and, of course, reliable way in each specific case. The presence of vibration loads should be taken into account, so that the fasteners do not loosen over time.
Before finally fixing the overhead axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. It is recommended to enclose the wire connecting the fan with the switch in a special plastic cable channel fixed on the wall, which can be placed along the ceiling or hidden above the suspended structure.

The fan is connected to the power supply through the connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing to prevent active exposure to high humidity.

Depending on the design, the terminal block is located in different ways, but the connection diagram is always attached to the fan, which will help you navigate this issue.

If it is decided to connect the fan to the light switch, then this switching should be carried out approximately as shown in this diagram:

Connection in this way is carried out in a junction box specially installed for this, where, using the terminal, the “zero” and “phase” wires of the fan and lighting are connected, respectively. The “phase” is interrupted on the switch, and from it there is already a connection to both devices.

By the way, if you think about it carefully, then such a scheme is very irrational. We simulate the situation - a person took a bath or shower, dried himself, got dressed, left the bathroom and turned off the light behind him. During this time, excess moisture is unlikely to be completely drawn out by the fan, and the room remains "steam column". The situation is similar with the use of the restroom. It would be wiser to provide a time delay for such a connection, at least for 5 ÷ 10 minutes, by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.

By the way, if you wish, you can find on sale electronic timer devices for controlling light and ventilation, designed specifically for these purposes.

When installing a duct fan, it is necessary to carefully consider connecting it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation duct is planned to run through the attic. An electric cable will need to be laid through the ceiling, and along its entire length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the ceiling, must be securely insulated.

If the system is mounted under the ceiling of the premises, then the air duct together with the fan can be hidden above the false ceiling. In this case, the ventilation hole can be arranged in the ceiling, where the air duct is led out and fixed, and then cover this window with a decorative and functional grille.

Video: how to install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet yourself

Checking the Installed System

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such control, no tools are required - just bring a piece of paper or a lit candle to the grate of the switched on fan. If the paper sheet is attracted to the grate, and the flame of the candle leans towards it, then we can say that the fan is working quite efficiently.

If it is necessary to increase traction, then a small artificial draft can be stimulated. To do this, a narrow slit-like window is cut out at the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes are drilled. These cutouts are then closed on both sides with a specially designed ventilation grille. It, depending on the design and type of holes made, is inserted into the through opening, can be glued to the door or screwed with self-tapping screws.

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: the inflow of fresh air through the living rooms and its outflow from the technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of the outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it right.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say - forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and, resulting from this, pressure drops. When mechanical ventilation is used, air movement is caused by fans.

From the point of view of an urban man, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are rather the norm. Therefore, probably, they tend to mainly make systems non-volatile, or at least redundant.

But the natural ventilation in the bathroom and bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the greater the cross section of the duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster. This is even reflected in the SNiP: the rate of movement for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m 3 / h, for mechanical ones - from 3 to 5 m 3 / h. Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the dimensions of the channels will be different. For example, to transfer a flow of 300 m 3 / h, you will need:

Therefore, few people today manage with natural ventilation. Except in small houses(up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with channels leading to the roof, bathrooms and toilets are ventilated using fans.

Organization rules

When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical rooms. From there, he leaves through the ventilation ducts.

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, we insulate the walls through which at least a little air enters with airtight materials. The third source - entrance doors - today almost everyone also has iron doors, with rubber seal. There was, in fact, the only way - airing. But we do not abuse it at all: it blows out heat. As a result, to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room, the problem of dampness is added: there is no inflow, and the outflow is inefficient. Even forced.

If you want the ventilation to be normal, and the walls in the rooms not to “wet”, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable dampers. different forms and sizes, outside are taken away by lattices. It is best to install under the windows, above or behind the batteries. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having ensured the inflow, care must be taken to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: through them, air will flow into other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and / or also make a gap of at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only if there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.

The doors of technical rooms - kitchens, bathrooms, toilets - must have ventilation grilles or valves. There are even valves with noise absorption, and the smell, if properly organized, will never get into other rooms

Calculation of fan performance for bathroom and toilet

To decide which fan to put on the bathtub with a toilet, you need to calculate the necessary air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to interfere in the calculations, its performance can be taken according to average numbers.

Air exchange rate for different rooms. With their help, ventilation is calculated in the bathroom and toilet

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom, at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or a combined bathroom, the speed should be twice as high - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The calculation of the inflow is carried out according to the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times, and the minimum values \u200b\u200bindicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of the fans is taken with at least a double margin, and even more for kitchens: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going to the bathroom with a fan with a lower capacity than 100 m 3 / h, it is better not to take it.

Choice

First of all, you need to decide where you will put the fan: in the duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. In wall-mounted versions, there can also be two types: for installation at the inlet of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street. For a channelless installation, axial-type fans are usually used - they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa; for this reason, they are not installed in channels.

In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It is good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

Connecting a fan in the bathroom

For the fan to work, power is needed and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

Connect in parallel with lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. For the toilet, this situation is normal, but for the bathroom - not always. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different way to connect the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set the time interval after which the power will turn off).

Output to a separate switch key or put a separate toggle switch / button.
Set a timer that will automatically power up according to a schedule.

The electrical part is the hardest part. You will have to punch a strobe in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, bring it to the installation site of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.

Checking the ventilation duct

Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the channel. To do this, remove the grate, if it has not been dismantled yet, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is pulled steadily towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it stretches, then bends back - the thrust is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, smells from neighbors upstairs or downstairs can get to you. Then the smell in the toilet from the ventilation is possible. Traction needs to be stabilized.

If the flame or leaf almost does not deviate, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as unpleasant odors are guaranteed throughout the apartment, and in the bathroom, so be sure.

In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private homes, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have taken it out without taking into account the wind rose and the thrust periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but it's not easy. To begin with, you can try to put a deflector (if it is not there) or slightly increase / decrease the height.

Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom

When the fan is installed while it is running, the amount of air discharged increases significantly. But due to the fact that the case covers part of the channel section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system drops.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the case and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the slot and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more on this.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to the installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

A hole must be made on the tile under the body. The easiest way is to attach a fan and outline. Then, with a special nozzle on a drill or a grinder, cut a hole of the appropriate size.
Remove the front panel from the fan. It is attached with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed, the grille was removed. Holes for fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the channel), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the place where the bolts will be.
With a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to fit the size of the dowel.
We make an incision in the tile, where we will pass the power wire.
We insert dowels.
We stretch electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, it is drilled).
We install in place, tighten the bolts.
We connect the wires.
We check the performance and install the grate.
For wooden toilets, all this is only partly true. Read about
Ventilation in the bathroom in a private house

Here the main difficulties may arise in the construction of exhaust channels. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought to the roof. This is more difficult in terms of internal wiring - you will have to pull the ducts to the right place, and also more expensive during construction. But appearance turns out solid.

Another way to arrange ventilation ducts: bring it through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they should rise 50 cm above the ridge. But one common air duct will be brought out by you or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

There is another option: to make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options presented in the photo is suitable.

In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made right in the upper part of the wall (in order for air exchange to be effective, it must be located opposite the door, obliquely, at the top). With this device, a conventional wall fan is used. The same figure shows how the number of required channels can be reduced. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are nearby, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grate. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

In the second option (pictured on the right), an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, only there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the tree will turn black after a while. If you draw a conclusion from the toilet this way, this may not happen, and in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “pull out” the air duct to the roof cut or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).

According to all standards and requirements, ventilation is installed in the toilet, bathroom, bathroom of a house or apartment. Ventilation in the bathroom is part of a single house air exchange system. It is designed to ensure normal air circulation in the premises, must remove excess moisture and unpleasant odors.

According to all the rules, requirements and standards in the toilet, it is necessary to equip ventilation

Ventilation in wooden house, brick cottage and apartment has its own characteristics and nuances. Knowing these questions will allow you to make the right air exchange system in the house with your own hands.

general information

Bathroom ventilation in an apartment and a private house can be of two standard types:

natural;
forced.

Natural air exchange occurs due to the normal movement of air masses, temperature differences and pressure drops. Forced ventilation works through the use of special equipment - fans.

With a forced ventilation system, four types of fans can be used:

Axial wall (overhead).
Channel.
Radial.
Rooftop.

In apartments apartment buildings and private mansions, axial wall fans are most often mounted. Duct are effective for objects with an area of more than 15-20 square meters. m. For this reason, they are often installed in public buildings. Radial devices are used in production. And rooftops are popular everywhere, if there is the possibility of their installation.

Requirement for air exchange in the toilet

According to SNiP, requirements for the speed of movement of air masses are established:

with natural circulation - up to 1 cubic meter per hour;
with forced circulation - from 3 to 5 cubic meters at one o'clock.

The calculation of the dimensions of the ventilation ducts is made taking into account the following parameters:

circulation speeds.
Room sizes.
The number of people living.
number of windows.

When calculating the size of the ventilation ducts, it is important to consider the presence of windows in the toilet

A natural ventilation system requires larger diameters of ventilation ducts than a forced one. These design parameters are important to consider when designing a private house. Natural ventilation will be effective if the total area of the premises is not more than 100 square meters. m. For large sizes, it is recommended to use equipment for forced circulation of air masses.

Important indicator forced ventilation- noise level. The optimal parameters should not exceed 35 decibels. The noise level depends on the fan model and the correct installation. The fan must have an appropriate level of moisture protection. The degree of protection should not be lower than the IP 44 standard.

Device and installation of ventilation in the apartment

In the apartments, the ventilation system is arranged as follows:

the inflow of fresh air is provided by natural intake through windows and doors;
fresh air enters the toilet and bathroom from other rooms;
exhaust ventilation is equipped in the kitchen and bathroom.

Problem modern apartments- a decrease in the rate of fresh air entering the apartment and a decrease in circulation parameters.

IN window openings, hermetic structures are placed on balconies and loggias in order to reduce heat losses. External walls are treated with special insulating materials. The situation is simpler if the basis of the structure is wood, this material is able to "breathe" and lets air into the room.

In brick buildings, there is no such air circulation through the walls. Entrance doors are equipped with high-quality seals that do not allow air to pass through. Effective method natural air intake (ventilation) is used extremely rarely, as this also leads to heat loss, drafts.

quality window structures solve the issue of circulation by the presence of special technological holes. Air circulation between rooms is ensured by the mandatory presence of slots under SNiP interior doors. Doors to the bathroom and kitchen can be equipped with special ventilation grilles.

Modern standards imply the use of forced air exchange systems. In the kitchen, an electric hood with various operating modes is mounted in the ventilation duct. Special fans are installed in the ventilation ducts of the toilet and bathroom. Fans can start automatically when the light is turned on or with a special switch.

The efficiency of fans depends on the correct selection of a model with the required characteristics. The calculation of the necessary parameters is made taking into account the average temperature in the room in winter, the frequency of inflow, the volume of air exchange. In the technical data sheets of high-quality fans, all these parameters should be indicated. Tables for calculating the required characteristics of fans are given in SNiP.

The rate of air exchange for different rooms, based on which the ventilation system is calculated

So, in the norms for the bathroom at average temperature in winter at 25 degrees, a multiplicity equal to one air exchange should be equal to 25 cubic meters per hour. For a toilet and a bathroom, this characteristic is 50 cubic meters per hour. According to these parameters, the fan model should be selected. The optimal indicators are those at which the volumes of circulation "at the exit" are equal to the volumes "at the entrance".

The calculation of the air flow into the apartment is calculated according to a simple formula - the total volume of all rooms is taken and increased by 1.5-2 times. The volume of the room is calculated by multiplying the width, length and height. Yes, let's consider one-room apartment, Where:

Entrance hall - length 6 meters, width 3 meters, height 2.7 meters (6 x 3 x 2.7 = 48.6).
Kitchen - 7 x 5 x 2.7 \u003d 94.5.
Room - 8 x 6 x 2.7 \u003d 129.6.
Bathroom - 3 x 4 x 2.7 = 32.4.

The total volume of the premises under consideration is 48.6 + 94.5 + 129.6 + 32.4 = 305.1. The inflow will be about 450 cubic meters per hour. If you take three fans in the kitchen, toilet and bathroom, then the performance of each should be 150 cubic meters per hour. Fans have an average processed volume of 140-180 cubic meters per hour. The hood in the kitchen processes 250-400 cubic meters per hour.

A standard forced ventilation system, consisting of a kitchen hood and two fans, will provide an apartment with high-quality air exchange without any problems. Fans in the apartment should be used in-line, which are mounted directly in the hole of the hood.

For standard forced ventilation it is necessary to use duct fans

The key issue when connecting a fan in the apartment's toilet is the power supply. As mentioned above, you can connect the device in several ways:

Connection to the network for turning on the light in the toilet. The fan will start/stop when turned on/off.
The fan starts and stops with a delay when turning on and off. An advantageous feature for the bathroom, where the hood is needed after taking a shower or bath. Moisture and steam will be released for a while after the light is turned off. The time interval for switching off is set using a special sensor.
The fan is output via a separate line to its switch.
Installation in the network of a special timer with the function of setting intervals for switching on and off the fan.

How to make ventilation in the toilet with your own hands? You need to prepare the instrument. To perform work in the apartment you will need: screwdrivers, puncher, tape measure, drill. The installation of the electrical wire is carried out as follows:

From the exhaust channel in the wall, a recess for the cable is cut. The gate is laid to the place of the switch. When carrying out work, it is important not to damage the lighting cable leading to the switch.
A fan is installed in the hole.
The cable is carefully connected to the fan and pulled along the strobe to the switch (junction box).
The cable from the fan is connected to the corresponding terminals of the light switch.
The operation of the fan is checked.

All work is carried out with the power off. Be sure to check the functioning of natural circulation. To do this, a lighter or a match is brought to the exhaust channel. The flame should be "pulled" into the hole. If everything is correct, you can safely proceed with the installation.

Before installation, it is necessary to check the functioning of natural circulation. To do this, you need a regular lighter.

What to do if the natural air exchange in the ventilation duct does not work? If during the performance check it turned out that natural ventilation is not working normally, it is worth finding out the reason. The vent pipe leading to the roof can be clogged with dirt, snow, leaves and foreign objects.

Pipe cleaning is carried out using a cable from the apartment or from the roof. If the ventilation blows into the apartment, and not out of it, then the technology is broken or there is damage in the system. The exhaust pipe must rise above the roof by at least 50 cm. To prevent air from being drawn into the room due to pressure drops, the system is mounted with a check valve.

When the fan is installed in the exhaust duct, in the off state, the performance of natural ventilation is reduced by 2-3 times. This happens because the device covers part of the hole, leaving only the slots in the grate. The problem is solved by expanding the size of the ventilation duct, which allows you to increase the air exchange rate.

A standard grille and a fan are installed in parallel in the opening. At the same time, natural and forced circulation systems of air masses are obtained. If you cannot enlarge the hood opening, you can leave a small gap between the appliance and the wall (1.5-2 cm).

Device and installation of ventilation in a private house

Before installing the ventilation system, it is necessary to draw up detailed diagram, calculate the materials and prepare the tool. What materials are required for the installation of forced ventilation:

Fan.
Pipes or boxes for arranging ventilation lines.
Angled and swivel elbows.
Couplings.
Check valve. A system with a check valve will avoid the situation of air being drawn into the room due to pressure drops.
Mounting material.
Grilles and deflector.

When designing a private house, it is recommended to make a single ventilation wiring. The exhaust outlets from the premises will be connected into a single pipe and led to the roof. Such a system is difficult to build, but it is effective and convenient. With this approach, the appearance of the building does not suffer.

It is possible to bring ventilation ducts through the outer wall using pipes. Raise pipes from the outside to the roof along the walls. This approach is effective in log houses. Systems are used in which pipes along one wall are combined into a single system. The pipe should rise above the ridge by 50 cm, it should be installed strictly vertically. A deflector is placed at the upper end of the pipe.

The issue of natural circulation in a private house is solved at the design and construction stage. Special ventilation shields with holes, grilles and dampers are mounted in the walls. They are installed above or below the batteries and provide an adjustable supply of fresh air.

To save consumables, if the toilet and bathroom are located nearby, and they are separated by one partition, you can make a hole between the rooms and put a grate in it. Install the exhaust duct itself in the toilet.

The ventilation in the toilet of a private house is mounted as follows (general instructions for arranging through the wall):

A hole of the required size is made in the wall.
A section of pipe is inserted into the hole.
Pipes with the help of bends are displayed on the street.
The distances between the walls of the channel and the pipe are sealed and insulated.
The pipe is vertically displayed on the roof, its end should rise 50 cm above the visor.
With the help of clamps, the pipe is fixed to the wall and insulated. Warming can be done by arranging a box or placing it in a special casing.
A fan is installed in the channel opening.
An electrical network is supplied to turn the fan on and off.

Is it possible to combine the ventilation ducts of the kitchen and bathroom in a wooden house? In accordance with SNiP, such actions can be performed. But you should not connect the channels directly. It is better to make a connection in the area of \u200b\u200bthe fan pipe that goes to the roof.

Another important question is whether it is possible to combine the ventilation ducts of a bathroom in a wooden house if there is a partition between the toilet and the bathroom. There are no restrictions here. You can combine the system by making a hole through the wall, and install the hood in one of the rooms.

In the process of living, many owners come to the idea of \u200b\u200bcombining a toilet and a bathroom.

When rooms are combined, the important question is how to install a fan so that air exchange is efficient in a large single room. It is best to accompany the combination by installing fans in both exhaust ducts (the former toilet and bathroom). You can install only one fan, and leave the second channel in the natural ventilation mode.

Fresh air contributes to good health and vitality. Indoors, this is ensured by ventilation and ventilation. In the toilet and bathroom freshness is needed no less than in the rest of the house. There is a built-in ventilation. Let's talk in detail

her, why she is needed, about the design, types and methods of her work.

The system is necessary not only for the supply of clean air. Thanks to her, they achieve optimum temperature as well as humidity and oxygen levels.
In a small room without the possibility of ventilation, stale and specific air accumulates. Toilet air freshener won't help. It hides odors, not eliminates them. In the bathroom, ventilation is necessary to combat high humidity. After taking a shower or bath without well-functioning ventilation, it will take a long time for this room to bounce back.

ventilation

Checking work

The toilet and bathroom in apartments, even with a divided wall, have one air outlet leading to the shaft. In private houses, a different ventilation system may be provided. This is especially true if it has several floors. IN simple houses the room may have a window for ventilation. In cottages, a shaft type is installed.
The function test is carried out through the technological air holes. The presence of thrust is analyzed by a lighter or a sheet of paper, which is brought to the grate. The fire should go out or turn towards the ventilated window, and the sheet should be attracted to the hole. If this does not happen, then the system is failing.

Do you know why the natural condition deteriorates sharply? There are several.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

What to do?

If a problem is found, first of all, it is necessary to clean the mine. IN apartment buildings this is done by special services serving them. The brigades have special equipment for work.

But, in the apartment, the tenant can check the available area on their own. To do this, remove the grate and view the visible area, helping yourself with a flashlight. Often accumulated debris or a dead bird can be removed with a spatula or other device while in the apartment. But this must be done carefully. You can not highlight the ventilation with a lighter. If there is dry garbage there, then a flame will instantly flare up and spread to all floors.

bathroom door

Sometimes it is enough to depressurize the door to the toilet or bathroom to increase air circulation. Of course, if it is a matter of a high threshold, you should not lose it, since in the event of a water spill, it will protect the rest of the dwelling from the flood. It is better to provide special slots in the door itself. This is achieved by trimming or installing gratings.

It must be borne in mind that by installing airtight windows in the house and insulating the walls, the owners deprive themselves of the natural circulation in the house. Clean air can only get in if the vents are open. But there is another option. On sale there is a so-called supply valve. Some models cut directly into the window structure at the top of the frame. Then they are ordered when installing windows.
However, when the windows are already installed, they acquire a valve on the wall. For installation, it must be drilled through. Usually the valves are placed next to the windows and covered with curtains. Another good place is behind the batteries. Then the air warms up, getting into the room.

Ventilation in the restroom

System types

Ventilation is divided into two types:

The latter, in turn, happens:

exhaust;
supply;
supply and exhaust.

For the house, the window in the bathroom will not only establish natural air circulation, but also become a source of lighting. The same purpose is served by a window between the kitchen and the bathroom. It was invented to save electricity. It was believed that during the day it was not necessary to turn on the light bulb, since natural light was enough.

The cheapest way to solve the problem of air exchange in the house is a ventilation hole that goes directly to the street. In this case, additional blinds for adjustment can be provided, a fan is installed to implement forced ventilation.

Previously, natural air exchange was often carried out due to drafts. This was due to the operation of not the most quality materials, for example, a door that does not close tightly, or the use of old window frames. The use of new technologies excluded drafts from the premises. Now they appear only if the windows are opened on purpose.

Valves for natural ventilation

In case of disruption of the work of natural air exchange, a forced view will save the situation. If there is a mine providing for natural ventilation, then it is being redone. In multi-storey buildings, the use of such is prohibited.. After all, because of this, the air exchange among the neighbors will be disturbed. However, many do not pay attention to prohibitions, and install forced ventilation in apartments.
In private houses and cottages, a fan can be installed in mines. But, it is better to do this during construction work.

The most commonly used overhead fan. Depending on the model, it has the following features:

It is convenient to use a channel device in the house installed in the attic in the ventilation pipe. It serves both as a toilet and a bathroom. The main thing is to correctly calculate the power, taking into account the number of people living in the house and square meters.

Forced ventilation in the bathroom

Which forced ventilation system to choose?

The most common way to establish air circulation is to install a hood. But in a large family this is not enough. Then, instead of the hood, a supply is used. In this case, the air enters the room, and does not leave it. The old air is replaced by new air, providing air exchange.

But one inflow is rarely used. Usually, for optimal ventilation, an integrated system is provided, where the hood works together with the supply. The exhaust opening is installed at the top, and the supply - at the bottom. Relative to each other, the arrangement should be diagonal. Due to this, the air corridor will increase.

Installing forced ventilation at home is not so difficult. Let's see how it's done.

To reduce noise, it is advisable to additionally lay a sealant between the wall and the fan.

ventilation

It happens that after installation, instead of output, air began to be sucked in from the mine. Then you will have to install another fan with a special valve that does not allow back draft.

But did you know that if the toilet and bath are separated, ventilation is also organized between them? To do this, a pipe is laid in the space behind the ceiling or two fans are installed: between the bathroom and the toilet, as well as in the exhaust vent.

Air conditioner

The most convenient, but also expensive device for providing circulation is air conditioning. A good and properly installed model maintains the desired level of humidity, saturates the air with oxygen, and also deodorizes and ionizes it, supplying it in the most comfortable mode. The device is switched on and off manually or adjusted in such a way that a certain temperature is maintained in the room. The most expensive models also include sensors for humidity and other parameters, due to which the automation determines when it needs to be turned on so that the microclimate of the house remains comfortable for residents.

Closed and outdoor loops

In apartment buildings, an outdoor cycle is always used, in which air comes from the external environment. However, in cottages and private houses, a closed cycle is often used when it is run indoors. This keeps the heat in the house and saves money on heating. To maintain cleanliness and freshness, special filters are installed.

Conclusion

This is how it works ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. Now you know how to provide clean and fresh air in these areas, and make living at home more comfortable. Follow the recommendations in the article, and let everything work out for you!

Installing a VENTS Silenta-S fan in a bathroom

All bathrooms in apartments and private houses are characterized by high humidity with constant temperature changes. If the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is calculated or done incorrectly, then mold will appear in them. And often natural air exchange for these rooms is not enough. Then you have to install a forced-type ventilation system with various fans. Otherwise, without additional ventilation, the walls in such rooms risk quickly turning into a fungal farm.

The main types of ventilation

Ventilation in the bathroom can be:

natural;
forced.

The first works due to ordinary air convection. Heated air masses naturally always rise to the ceiling of the bathroom. Moreover, if there is a ventilation hole in the upper part of the bathroom or toilet with access to the ventilation duct, then air goes further up. And instead of its departed volumes, new ones are drawn in through the door, which creates a natural draft in the room. As a result, there is a constant air exchange.

Air circulation with natural ventilation

The second works due to the presence of a fan that draws in or feeds additional air to the bathroom. Forced ventilation is arranged where the natural analogue cannot cope with the proper volumes of air exchange. At the same time, such systems are energy-dependent. It is recommended to choose them for installation in a home bathroom only as a last resort.

The principle of operation of forced ventilation

Forced ventilation is divided into three types:

Supply.
Exhaust.
Combined (supply and exhaust).

In the first case, air is supplied to the room from the ventilation duct through a running fan. In the second, it is forced, on the contrary, to be pulled out (sucked out) from the toilet and bathroom into the ventilation shaft. The third option is a combination of the first two ventilations.

Scheme of installation of wall and ceiling ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Ventilation and equipment of ventilation systems

Conventional ventilation in the bathroom and toilet includes a ventilation duct to a common shaft (riser) and a grate on the wall. Plus, in addition to this, filters are often placed in the duct. But if the ventilation system is forced, then it must have a fan. A control unit and other automation are already being added to this equipment.

If exhaust or supply ventilation is selected for installation, then one ventilation duct is enough. However, for a combined supply and exhaust variant of separate air ducts between the bathroom and the street, two are required. One will be the influx of air, and the other will be its exhaust.

Design options with axial or duct fan

Inline fans for forced systems ventilation are:

axial - air movement occurs along the axis of the electric motor;
radial - the air flow inside is created with an inclination to the axis by special working blades bent forward or backward;
centrifugal - air flow is formed by creating a pressure difference inside the housing.

The easiest way is to mount an axial fan, which often comes in a single kit with a ventilation grill. It is also the easiest to maintain during the further operation of ventilation. The radial version is usually placed inside the duct at a certain distance from the grate, so there is less noise from it.

Types of axial fans for forced ventilation

The centrifugal analogue differs from them in increased efficiency and low power consumption. If you want to make ventilation in the bathroom of a large area (more than 15 squares), then it is better to install this particular fan.

The supply system is also equipped with an electric heater or a heat exchanger. She takes air for supply from the street, where it is initially cold. Therefore, in order not to have to add heating power, these air masses are preheated a little in the ventilation duct.

Installation of forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet of the apartment is most often made in the exhaust version. To do this, a small axial fan of the required power is placed in the existing ventilation duct and fixed there. Air ducts already exist, it is impossible to expand or completely replace them with new ones. If necessary, it remains only to install an exhaust fan in them.

Scheme of installation of forced ventilation with a common ventilation shaft

For the cottage, you can choose any type of ventilation in the bathroom. But even here, if the house has already been built, then in most cases a system with a conventional channel hood is installed. It is easier and cheaper than others to do it yourself. This is not water supply from a well, for the device of which you need to invite installers with special equipment. Here you can do it yourself.

Fan wiring diagram

If the bathroom already has natural ventilation, then it is not difficult to supplement it with an electric fan to increase efficiency. It is only necessary to correctly calculate its power.

To install an axial duct fan, you must:

Remove ventilation grille.

Clean the air duct from dust and dirt.

Spread the fan housing with polymer glue and put it in place in the channel.

Connect the electrical wiring to this device.

Install mosquito net and front cover.

Electrical diagram of a bathroom with forced ventilation

If there are no ventilation ducts in the room, then you will have to punch them. However, first you need to correctly calculate their size and location. In such a situation, it is better to entrust the design of ventilation for the bathroom to a professional. Here it will be necessary to take into account the air exchange throughout the house, and not just in the bathroom. Without proper knowledge, it is unlikely that it will be possible to make calculations correctly and accurately.

Ventilation system mounting options

If you have to do everything yourself, then you can achieve maximum traction in the ventilation duct if you place the grate under the ceiling opposite front door. This is how ventilation in toilets is most often equipped.

Ventilation should be built so that the air ducts have a minimum of bends inside. The fan installed inside must exactly fit the ventilation duct in size so that it does not create unnecessary noise and works with maximum efficiency.

Structural elements for ventilation installation

Also, do not place ventilation equipment near heating devices. The fan itself heats up during operation, additional heat from other devices is contraindicated for it.