Correct installation of the radiator. How to install a heating radiator in an apartment. One-way connection, infeed from below

Installing and replacing a heating radiator at first glance seems not very challenging task. However, this is not so - any mistakes made in the process of work will inevitably cause consequences, probably quite severe. In order not to have to restore repairs in the apartment after flooding hot water or other unforeseen problems, it is recommended to contact plumbers for installation and replacement of parts of the heating system. However, this still does not mean that installing a heating radiator with your own hands is not feasible.

For success you need:

Enough free time.
To study the theoretical base: ways to connect batteries and rules.
Measure the area carefully.
Find the tools you need to do the job.

Installing a heating radiator

First of all, of course, you need to choose a radiator that you need in your particular apartment or private house. The choice of a radiator should be determined by its technical characteristics and your needs. What qualities of the battery influence the choice? Mainly it is:

Wear resistance.
Price.
Clearance diameter for water circulation.
Resistance to aggressive environments.

Important! If you want to install heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to consider the materials from which they are made. So, aluminum radiators are easy to install, do not require special skills, knowledge and tools. And when installing cast iron batteries welding is required. It is worth deciding in advance on the resources available to you and objectively assess your capabilities.

Checking the bleed valve

In preparation for work, first of all, you need to find out the type of wiring for your heating system. It can be single or double sided.

A single-pipe heating system is most often performed in apartments of multi-storey buildings. With this type of organization hot water flows down pipes from the upper floor to the lower ones. Of the disadvantages of such wiring, it is worth noting that in this case you cannot regulate the temperature without installing additional devices. In addition, the water on the upper floors is much hotter than on the lower ones.
A two-pipe heating system is more common in cottages and country houses. Water circulates through two systems: hot - one, cooled - the other. This wiring is devoid of the disadvantages of a single-pipe version: the temperature of the heaters always remains constant, and is also adjustable.

Options for connecting heating systems

In addition to choosing the radiator itself, during installation you will also need to decide how to connect it to a centralized network. You have several various options, each of which has its own scope of use:

diagonal connection. This scheme is the best choice for long multi-section heating batteries. It is distinguished by the fact that the water supply pipe is attached to the pipe from above on one edge of the radiator, while the outlet pipe is attached to the lower pipe on the other side. Among the disadvantages of such a system are heavy repairs in case of malfunctions: the scheme does not imply removing the battery without completely turning off the heating.

Radiator connection options

Important! When supplying water from below, you will lose about 10% of the possible heat.

Bottom connection. This wiring diagram looks the most inconspicuous. It is used if the pipes are located inside the floor or hidden under skirting boards. The inlet and outlet pipes are directed perpendicular to the floor surface. The main disadvantage is that this system involves the largest possible amount of heat loss.
Lateral one-way connection. It is the most common and effective. Maximum heat transfer is ensured by connecting the inlet pipe from above, and the outlet pipe - from below on the same side of the battery. When inverted, the heating power is significantly reduced, so it is not recommended to change the pipes in places.

Important! In case of insufficient heating of the far sections of the battery, an extension of the water flow is used.

Parallel connection. It occurs through a heat pipe built into the heating system. The withdrawal is implemented in the same way. Such a system allows you to replace the batteries without turning off the central heating, but the main disadvantage is that with insufficient pressure in the system, the batteries do not warm up well.

Important! Connecting a heating radiator with your own hands in this way is quite difficult; it would be better to entrust this work to experienced installers.

Serial connection. In this case, the heat transfer through the system occurs due to the air pressure in it. Excess air descends with the Mayevsky crane. The main disadvantage of such a system is also the impossibility of repair without shutting down the entire heating system.

Rules for connecting a radiator

There are no minor nuances in the installation of the heating system, it is necessary to follow all the rules in order for the work to be efficient and safe. So how to install heating radiators with your own hands? It is worth considering the following points:

the distance from the top of the battery to the window sill should be more than 5 cm;
from the bottom of the battery to the floor, the distance must be at least 10 cm;
the distance from the wall to the battery should be from 2 to 5 cm. If the standard fasteners are too short, you need to buy others of a suitable length.

Installing a radiator in confined spaces

These rules will allow air to circulate normally around the heater, preventing unnecessary heat loss.

Important! The battery installation rules are the same for all their varieties, whether it be aluminum or cast iron radiators.

Before installing the radiator, you need to decide how many sections it should have. This can be done on the basis that in a standard room no more than 2.7 meters high, one section heats two square meters of area. Of course, such a calculation is quite rough, to get the best result, you should entrust this to professionals.

Important! You can also use the formula: for 1 kW of radiator power, there is 1 square meter rooms. In the case when there are several windows in it, you need to increase the resulting value by 1.3 times.

Required Tools

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators in an apartment, as in a private house, requires a certain number of tools, without which this process is simply impossible.

Be sure to align the radiator vertically

To be successful, you will need:

impact drill with a drill bit;
a set of torque wrenches;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
pliers;
roulette;
building level;
pencil and ruler.

Installation process

The installation process is nothing too complicated if it is carried out according to the plan in stages and without error.

First, you need to turn off the heating system and drain the water from it. In a private house, this can be done with a pump, in an apartment building, you will have to contact the ZhEK. Then you need to dismantle the used radiators.
Mark the wall for mounting new heating devices. In this case, it is advisable to use a level in order to install the battery as evenly as possible, eliminating distortions. It is important that the battery is installed strictly horizontally or with a minimum deviation towards the pipe. This will allow the water to drain completely by the end of the heating season.
Install the brackets, check them for strength by pressing on them with all your weight. If they withstand - hang up the battery. For a cast iron and aluminum battery, two fasteners are usually sufficient, for plastic pipes necessary large quantity. The walls must be cleaned, leveled and plastered before installing the fasteners.
Install shut-off valves, paying special attention to reliability and watertightness threaded connections. Connect pipeline.

Important! To prevent the battery from leaking, it is advisable to use appropriate torque wrenches. Especially if you are installing an aluminum radiator, you will inevitably need to mount an air valve with it, through which air will be bled. The force of the torque wrench used during installation must not exceed 12 kg.

In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary to correctly install the heating system. At the same time, it is important not only to qualitatively implement the necessary set of works, but also to correctly connect all the heating elements. It is necessary to take into account the current norms for the number heating elements for a certain area. If you wish, you can do everything with your own hands.

Is assembly required?

If the radiators are delivered assembled, it is enough to install the plugs and. Most models have four holes located at the four corners of the case. They are used to connect heating lines. In this case, any scheme can be implemented.

Before the installation of the system begins, it is necessary to close the extra holes using special plugs or air vent valves. The batteries are supplied with adapters that must be screwed into the manifolds of the product. Various communications should be connected to these adapters in the future.

prefabricated models

Assembling the batteries should begin with laying the entire product or its sections on a flat surface. Best on the floor. Before this stage, it is worth deciding how many sections will be installed. There are rules that allow you to determine the optimal amount.

The sections are connected using nipples having two external threads: right and left, as well as a turnkey ledge. The nipples should be screwed into two blocks: top and bottom.

When assembling the radiator, be sure to use the gaskets supplied with the product.

It is necessary to ensure that the upper edges of the sections are correctly located - in the same plane. The tolerance is 3 mm.

Features of installation of various types

The material from which a particular heating element is made imposes certain requirements on its installation. If cast iron is not afraid of serious mechanical stress, then others require special care.

Cast iron classic

Still remain relevant. The special characteristics of the material used in their manufacture make it possible to effectively heat a room of any area due to slow cooling.

To install such a heating element correctly, before connecting, you should:

disassemble the finished product into sections;
stretching all the nipples, assemble the product in reverse order.

By doing installation work it is worth considering the weight of the product and the composition of the material from which the house was built. The heating element can only be installed on brick and concrete walls. near the plasterboard wall is made on a floor stand.

Modern models

Such products are characterized by low weight and increased fragility. For them, it is necessary to provide a Mayevsky crane.

In the process of performing installation work, do not remove the packaging to prevent deformation of the surface.

How will we connect?

The scheme for connecting radiators can be different. The level of heat transfer and the comfort of being in the apartment depend on which option will be preferred. Incorrectly selected wiring can reduce the power of the heating system by 50%.

Lateral

The most widespread is the one-sided side scheme, which has the highest heat transfer rate. In this case, the pipe supplying the coolant is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one.

If you do the opposite, the efficiency of space heating will decrease by almost 7%. To connect multi-section radiators, such a scheme is not always justified, since insufficient heating of the last sections is possible. This can be avoided by installing a water flow extension.

lower

In an apartment with pipes hidden in the floor or passing under the plinth, a bottom connection is used.

This is the most aesthetic option, in which the pipes for supplying and discharging the coolant are located below in the floor, and therefore the lower holes are used for connection.

Diagonal

Installation of batteries with twelve or more sections is carried out in a diagonal pattern.

The coolant is supplied through the upper branch pipe located on one side of the radiator, and is discharged through the lower one on the other side.

Sequential

Such a connection scheme assumes the presence in the heating system of pressure sufficient for the movement of the coolant through the pipes.

In this case, it is worthwhile to provide for a Mayevsky crane, designed to remove excess air.

It is important to remember that the implementation of repair and maintenance work will be accompanied by the shutdown of the entire heating system.

Parallel

Parallel wiring assumes the presence of a special heat pipe built into the heating system, through which the coolant is supplied and discharged outside.

The presence of special taps at the inlet and outlet makes it possible to replace individual radiators without turning off the heat supply. However, the scheme can cause insufficient heating of the pipes at reduced pressure in the system.

Work sequence

Installation of batteries begins with a complete overlap of the circuit. When replacing old radiators with new ones, water is drained and the heating elements are dismantled. It will be correct to use the pump to exclude the presence of coolant residues in the system.

After all the water has been removed, the battery attachment points are aligned in both planes. Brackets are installed.

Package

The next step will be the packaging of radiators using sealing linen, packaging paste or special shut-off valves. Using a torque wrench, tighten the connection, creating the force specified in the documentation.

Installation work

Installation of radiators on the wall is carried out by welding or polypropylene pipes. In the first case, it is enough to use two fasteners; in the second, at least three are required. Two should be at the top, one at the bottom.

With ten or more sections, the number of fasteners should be increased to five. There should be three at the top, two at the bottom.

Spatial control

The battery position is monitored in both planes. It is advisable to provide a slight slope towards the wall. This will avoid airing the system during its operation.

The final stage

Threading is performed on the risers and the connection of all elements of the heating system. The tightness of all connections is carefully controlled.

After that, trial tests can be carried out in order to detect a possible leak.

Tests

If until now everything has been done by hand, at this stage it is better to invite a ZHREU locksmith. By shutting off the "American" taps, you can open the connecting tap. It is better to entrust the opening of the return pipe to a locksmith.

If there are no leaks at the connection points, it will be possible to open the valve on the batteries and close the bypass valve. The coolant will begin to flow into the heating system. To bleed air, you should use the Mayevsky crane.

As soon as the heating circuit in all rooms warms up, the locksmith will open the straight pipe. This will restore pressure to the system. We can assume that the control tests are completed. If the installation was done correctly, the apartment will be comfortable at minimal cost.

Are you planning to change your heating appliances? own house? For this, knowledge about the types of battery wiring, how to connect and place them is useful. Agree, because its efficiency directly depends on the correctness of the chosen scheme for connecting heating radiators in a particular house or room.

Proper connection of batteries is a very important task, because it is able to provide in all rooms comfortable temperature in any season. It is good when fuel consumption is minimal, and the house is warm on the coldest days.

We'll help you figure out what you need to maximize your effective work radiators. In the article you will find many useful information about ways to connect batteries and their implementation without the involvement of specialists. Schemes are given, as well as video materials that will help you visually understand the essence of the issue.

An efficient heating system can save you money on fuel bills. Therefore, when designing it, decisions should be made carefully. After all, sometimes the advice of a neighbor in the country or a friend who recommends such a system as his is not at all suitable.

Sometimes there is no time to deal with these issues. In this case, it is better to turn to professionals who have been working in this field for more than 5 years and have grateful reviews.

Image Gallery

The first option involves the use of physical laws without the purchase and installation of additional devices. Suitable when water is used as the heat carrier. Any non-freeze will circulate worse through the system.

The system consists of a boiler that heats water, an expansion tank, supply and return pipelines, batteries. Water, heating up, expands and begins its movement along the riser, visiting the installed radiators in turn. The cooled water from the system flows back to the boiler by gravity.

With this circulation option, the horizontal pipeline is installed with a slight inclination towards the movement of the coolant. This system is self-regulating, because depending on the temperature of the water, its quantity also changes. The circulation pressure increases, allowing the water to evenly heat the room.

With natural circulation, two-pipe and one-pipe schemes with an upper wiring are used, two-pipe with a lower one. It is advantageous to use such methods of connecting radiators to the heating system for small rooms.

It is important to equip batteries with air vents to remove excess air or install automatic air vents on risers. The boiler is best located in the basement, so that it is lower than the heated room.

For houses with an area of 100 m 2 or more, the coolant circulation system will have to be changed. In this case, you will need special device, stimulating the movement of water or antifreeze through pipes. We are talking about . Its power depends on the area of the heated room. The use of a pump for forced circulation allows the use of antifreeze as a coolant. In this case, you need to install expansion tank closed type so that the fumes do not harm the health of the inhabitants of the house

The circulation pump is used in two- and one-pipe circuits with a horizontal and vertical heating device connection system.

The need for proper installation of heating radiators arises both when replacing a single device, and when installing the entire system. It is the latter option that it is reasonable to consider in detail and in detail.

The heating season in our country lasts at least half a year, so a lot depends on the heat circulation system: not only the comfort of residential premises, but also human health, heating costs and the relevance of its repair. Consider the main schemes for supplying heat to apartments and residential buildings:

Cast iron radiators. Massive classic appliances, "guests from the past". They are used on a residual basis and are no longer produced by modern industry. They are characterized by low heat transfer and an appearance that has to be decorated - with curtains, planks, etc. Which further reduces the circulation of warm air in the room;
Aluminum radiators of sectional type. Lightweight, reliable and efficient devices for the heating system. Approximately 50% of the energy of the heat carrier is accounted for by convection into the room (for cast-iron analogues, this figure barely reaches 25%). Equipped with convenient pressure / flow regulators and attractive design;
Steel sectional radiators appearance very similar to aluminum ones - but at the same time much more massive and somewhat more expensive in terms of price. The main advantage of the scheme of steel radiators lies in their high resistance to corrosion. If the water in the heating system is hard, contains acidic or alkaline impurities, it is reasonable to choose such batteries. The installation of steel heating radiators must take into account their significant weight;
Bimetallic radiators - have the best performance characteristics and the most high cost(approximately 20% higher than aluminum sections) Withstand high pressure in the system, operate in the range from 20 to 40 atmospheres. All other varieties described above can function at a water pressure in the system of 15–25 atmospheres.

The standard service life of bimetallic radiators is up to 25 years, steel and aluminum - at least 20 years. In reality, they can last up to half a century. Of course, under the obvious condition - if the system is selected and connected correctly.

When replacing a single heater (for example, cast-iron sections are leaky), it is important to pay attention to the center distance, hole diameter and thread pitch. It is best to measure these parameters with a tape measure and calipers. There are many types of heating devices on the market and in stores, their design features differ from each other. You can purchase a device that looks like a failed battery - but it will not work when installed.

When the whole system changes, or the heating is installed again (for example, in a new house or apartment), a properly drawn up project is important:

As pipes - direct and reverse - it is best to choose plastic with a metal layer used for hot water supply. In the specifications, the allowable water temperature must exceed the temperature in the system by at least 10 ˚C;
The best places to install the selected heating radiators are the space under the windows or on one side of the long blank walls. This ensures better circulation of warm air in the apartment / house;
The sectional device of the batteries allows you to vary their length, and therefore, the power of the heating system. Correct connection provides for the presence of from 6 (minimum) to 15 (maximum) sections for one radiator;
The average standard for 1 square meter of a heated room is 0.7–1.1 sections made of aluminum, steel or bimetal. In rooms larger than 15–20 m 2, installation is recommended;
In addition to the main pipes and the actual batteries, you should stock up on the necessary number of connecting fittings, corners, brackets and other fittings. To drill holes in ceilings and walls, you will need a puncher with a long drill and a special “iron” for welding PVC pipes.

Of course, all mounted batteries must be of the same company (and preferably from the same batch). Similar requirements apply to the piping system. How to install a heating radiator and connect it after installation, we will consider in more detail.

The website site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required number of sections.

Installation and connection of radiators - step by step instructions

The installation of new heating radiators should be divided into several stages:

How to install and connect heating radiators with your own hands - a step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Batteries First!

When wall-mounted heating radiators are installed, batteries are first of all installed. This is done on two (with more than 10 sections - on three) brackets, pre-hammered into the wall. Water inlets and outlets are protected by special plugs. It is important to accurately align each radiator both horizontally and relative to the wall. This will not only give the entire system an attractive design, but also increase the life of the heating circuit.

Brackets must withstand a large load. They are recessed into the wall by at least 10 cm. The play and oscillation of the brackets should be minimal (a few millimeters 20 cm from the wall).

Step 2: Well, and the pipes - only then

In some new houses, special holes are provided for piping systems in the floor slabs. If these holes are not available, they are punched with a puncher, with a double margin in diameter. For example, for two pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, a common hole of at least 50 mm is punched. Pipe cutting is performed by a grinder, with a small amount of work - with a hacksaw.

The location of pipeline schemes strictly vertically is a condition for their long and trouble-free service. First, the entire riser is welded with an iron, then it is attached to the wall with special clamps. We use a level and a perforator (as with the heating radiators themselves). Next, taps are made to the batteries themselves.

Any heating system is a rather complex “organism”, in which each of the “organs” performs a strictly assigned role. And one of the most important elements are heat exchange devices - it is they who are entrusted with the ultimate task of transferring thermal energy or to the premises of the house. In this capacity, the usual radiators, convectors of open or hidden installation, the systems of water floor heating that are gaining popularity are pipe circuits laid in accordance with certain rules.

You may be interested in information about what is

This article will focus on heating radiators. Let us not be distracted by their diversity, structure and specifications: on our portal on these topics - enough comprehensive information. Now we are interested in another block of questions: connecting heating radiators, wiring diagrams, installing batteries. Correct installation heat exchangers, rational use the technical capabilities inherent in them are the key to the efficiency of the entire heating system. Even from the most expensive modern radiator there will be a low return if you do not listen to the recommendations for its installation.

What should be considered when choosing radiator piping schemes?

If you take a simplified look at most heating radiators, then their hydraulic design is a fairly simple, understandable diagram. These are two horizontal collectors, which are interconnected by vertical jumper channels through which the coolant moves. This entire system is either made of metal, which provides the necessary high heat transfer ( a prime example-), or "dressed" in a special casing, the design of which assumes the maximum area of contact with air (for example, bimetallic radiators).

1 - Upper collector;

2 - Lower collector;

3 - Vertical channels in the radiator sections;

4 - Heat exchanger case (casing) of the radiator.

Both collectors, upper and lower, have outlets on both sides (respectively, in the diagram, the upper pair B1-B2, and the lower B3-B4). It is clear that when a radiator is connected to the pipes of the heating circuit, only two out of four outlets are connected, and the remaining two are muffled. And now, the efficiency of the installed battery largely depends on the connection scheme, that is, on the relative position of the coolant supply pipe and the outlet to the "return".

And first of all, when planning the installation of radiators, the owner must figure out exactly what kind of heating system is functioning or will be created in his house or apartment. That is, he must clearly understand where the coolant comes from and in which direction its flow is directed.

Single pipe heating system

In multi-storey buildings, a single-pipe system is most often used. In this scheme, each radiator is, as it were, inserted into the “gap” of a single pipe, through which both the coolant is supplied and its removal to the “return” side.

The coolant passes successively all the radiators installed in the riser, gradually wasting heat. It is clear that in the initial section of the riser, its temperature will always be higher - this must also be taken into account when planning the installation of radiators.

There is another important point here. Such a one-pipe system apartment building can be organized according to the principle of top and bottom feed lyre.

On the left (item 1) the upper supply is shown - the coolant is transferred through a straight pipe to the upper point of the riser, and then sequentially passes through all the radiators on the floors. This means that the flow direction is from top to bottom.
In order to simplify the system and save consumables, another scheme is often organized - with a bottom feed (pos. 2). In this case, radiators are installed in the same series on the pipe ascending to the upper floor, as well as on the pipe descending. This means that the direction of the coolant flow in these "branches" of one loop is reversed. Obviously, the temperature difference in the first and last radiator of such a circuit will be even more noticeable.

It is important to deal with this issue - on which pipe of such a single-pipe system your radiator is installed - the optimal tie-in scheme depends on the flow direction.

A prerequisite for piping a radiator in a single-pipe riser is a bypass

The name “bypass”, which is not entirely clear to some, refers to a jumper that connects the pipes connecting the radiator to the riser in a single-pipe system. What is needed for, what rules are followed when installing it - read in a special publication of our portal.

The single-pipe system is widely used in private one-story houses, at least for reasons of saving materials for its installation. In this case, it is easier for the owner to figure out the direction of the coolant flow, that is, from which side he will be supplied to the radiator, and from which side he will exit.

Advantages and disadvantages of a single-pipe heating system

Attracting with the simplicity of its device, such a system is still somewhat alarming due to the difficulty of ensuring uniform heating on different radiators of house wiring. What is important to know about how to mount it with your own hands - read in a separate publication of our portal.

Two-pipe system

Already on the basis of the name, it becomes clear that each of the radiators in such a scheme "relies" on two pipes - separately for supply and return.

If you look at the two-pipe wiring diagram in a multi-storey building, you can immediately see the differences.

It is clear that the dependence of the heating temperature on the location of the radiator in the heating system is minimized. The direction of the flow is determined only by the relative position of the branch pipes cut into the risers. The only thing you need to know is which particular riser acts as a supply, and which one is the “return” - but this, as a rule, is easily determined even by the temperature of the pipe.

Some apartment residents may be misled by the presence of two risers, in which the system will not cease to be one-pipe. Look at the illustration below:

On the left, although there seem to be two risers, a single-pipe system is shown. Just one pipe is the upper supply of coolant. But on the right - a typical case of two different risers - supply and return.

The dependence of the efficiency of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

Why was it all said. what is posted in previous sections articles? But the fact is that the heat transfer of the heating radiator very seriously depends on the relative position of the supply and return pipes.

Scheme of inserting a radiator into a circuit	Direction of coolant flows
Diagonal radiator connection on both sides, top inlet

Such a scheme is considered the most effective. In principle, it is she who is taken as the basis for calculating heat transfer specific model radiator, that is, the power of the battery after such a connection is taken as a unit. The coolant, without encountering any resistance, completely passes through the upper collector, through all vertical channels, ensuring maximum heat transfer. The entire radiator warms up evenly over its entire area.


Such a scheme is one of the most common in multi-storey building heating systems, as the most compact in vertical risers. It is used on risers with an upper supply of coolant, as well as on return, descending - with a lower supply. It is quite effective for small radiators. However, if the number of sections is large, then the heating may be uneven. The kinetic energy of the flow becomes insufficient to propagate the coolant to the very end of the upper supply manifold - the liquid tends to pass along the path of least resistance, that is, through the vertical channels closest to the entrance. Thus, in the part of the battery farthest from the entrance, stagnant zones are not excluded, which will be much colder than the opposite ones. When calculating the system, it is usually assumed that even with the optimal length of the battery, its overall heat transfer efficiency is reduced by 3–5%. Well, with long radiators, such a scheme becomes inefficient or will require some optimization (this will be discussed below) /
One-way radiator connection with top inlet

A scheme similar to the previous one, and largely repeating and even reinforcing its inherent shortcomings. It is used in the same risers of single-pipe systems, but only in schemes with a bottom supply - on an ascending pipe, so the coolant is supplied from below. Losses in the total heat transfer with such a connection can be even higher - up to 20 ÷ 22%. This is due to the fact that the difference in density will also contribute to closing the movement of the coolant through the near vertical channels - the hot liquid tends upward, and therefore it is harder to pass to the remote edge of the lower radiator supply manifold. Sometimes this is the only connection option. The losses are compensated to some extent by the fact that in the ascending pipe the general level of the coolant temperature is always higher. The circuit can be optimized by installing special devices.
Double-sided connection with bottom connection of both connections

The scheme of the lower, or as it is often called the "saddle" connection, is extremely popular in autonomous systems private houses due to the wide possibilities to hide the pipes of the heating circuit under the decorative floor surface or make them as invisible as possible. However, in terms of heat transfer, such a scheme is far from optimal, and possible efficiency losses are estimated at 10–15%. The most accessible path for the coolant in this case is the lower collector, and distribution along the vertical channels is largely due to the difference in density. As a result, the upper part of the heating battery can warm up much less than the lower one. There are certain methods and means to minimize this disadvantage.
Diagonal radiator connection on both sides, bottom inlet

Despite the apparent similarity with the first, most optimal scheme, the difference between them is very large. Efficiency losses with such a connection reach up to 20%. This is explained quite simply. The coolant has no incentives to freely penetrate to the far section of the lower radiator supply manifold - due to the difference in density, it selects the vertical channels closest to the battery inlet. As a result, with a sufficiently evenly heated top, in the lower corner opposite to the entrance, stagnation often forms, that is, the surface temperature of the battery in this area will be lower. Such a scheme is used extremely rarely in practice - it is even difficult to imagine a situation where it is absolutely necessary to resort to it, rejecting other, more optimal solutions.

The table deliberately does not mention the lower one-sided connection of the batteries. With him - the question is ambiguous, as in many radiators that suggest the possibility of such a tie-in, special adapters are provided, which essentially turn the bottom connection into one of the options discussed in the table. In addition, even for ordinary radiators, you can purchase additional equipment, in which the lower one-sided eyeliner will be structurally modified to another, more optimal option.

I must say that there are also more “exotic” tie-in schemes, for example, for high-height vertical radiators - some models from this series require a two-way connection with both connections from above. But the very design of such batteries is thought out in such a way that the heat transfer from them is maximum.

The dependence of the heat transfer efficiency of the radiator on the place of its installation in the room

In addition to the scheme for connecting radiators to the pipes of the heating circuit, the place of their installation also seriously affects the efficiency of these heat exchange devices.

First of all, certain rules for placing the radiator on the wall with respect to the adjacent structures and interior elements of the room must be observed.

The most typical location of the radiator is under window opening. In addition to the general heat transfer, the ascending convection flow creates a kind of " thermal curtain”, preventing the free penetration of colder air from the windows.

The radiator in this place will show maximum efficiency if its total length is about 75% of the width of the window opening. In this case, it is necessary to try to install the battery exactly in the center of the window, with a minimum deviation not exceeding 20 mm in one direction or another.
The distance from the lower plane of the window sill (or other obstacle located on top - a shelf, a horizontal wall of a niche, etc.) should be about 100 mm. In any case, it should never be less than 75% of the depth of the radiator itself. Otherwise, an insurmountable barrier to convection currents is created, and the battery efficiency drops sharply.
The height of the lower edge of the radiator above the floor surface should also be about 100÷120 mm. With a clearance of less than 100 mm, firstly, considerable difficulties are artificially created in carrying out regular cleaning under the battery (and this is a traditional place for the accumulation of dust carried by convection air currents). And secondly, convection itself will be difficult. At the same time, “pulling up” the radiator too high, with a clearance from the floor surface of 150 mm or more, is also completely useless, since this leads to uneven distribution of heat in the room: a pronounced cold layer may remain in the area bordering the floor surface air.
Finally, the radiator must be at least 20 mm away from the wall with brackets. A decrease in this gap is a violation of normal air convection, and in addition, clearly visible dust marks may soon appear on the wall.

These are indicative indicators that should be followed. However, for some radiators, there are also recommendations developed by the manufacturer on the linear parameters of the installation - they are indicated in the product manuals.

It is probably unnecessary to explain that a radiator located openly on the wall will show heat transfer much higher than one that is completely or partially covered by certain interior items. Even a window sill that is too wide can already reduce the heating efficiency by several percent. And if we take into account that many owners cannot do without thick curtains on the windows, or, for the sake of interior design, they try to cover up unsightly, nor their eyes, radiators with the help of facade decorative screens or even completely closed casings, then the calculated battery power may not enough to fully heat the room.

Heat transfer losses, depending on the installation of a heating radiator on the walls, are shown in the table below.

Illustration	The influence of the shown placement on the heat transfer of the radiator
	The radiator is located on the wall completely open, or installed under the window sill, which covers no more than 75% of the depth of the battery. In this case, both main heat transfer paths - both convection and thermal radiation - are completely preserved. Efficiency can be taken as a unit.
	A window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. For infrared radiation, this does not matter, but the convection flow is already facing a serious obstacle. Losses can be estimated at 3 ÷ 5% of the total thermal power of the battery.
	In this case, not a window sill or shelf on top, but an upper wall wall niche. At first glance, everything is the same, but the losses are already somewhat greater - up to 7 ÷ 8%, since part of the energy will be wasted on heating the very heat-intensive material of the wall.
	The radiator from the front is covered with a decorative screen, but the clearance for air convection is sufficient. The loss is precisely in thermal infrared radiation, which especially affects the efficiency of cast iron and bimetallic batteries. Heat transfer losses with such an installation reach 10÷12%.
	The heating radiator is covered with a decorative casing completely, from all sides. It is clear that in such a casing there are gratings or slot-like holes for air circulation, but both convection and direct thermal radiation are sharply reduced. Losses can reach up to 20 - 25% of the calculated battery power.

So, it is obvious that the owners are free to change some of the nuances of installing heating radiators in the direction of increasing the efficiency of heat transfer. However, sometimes the space is so limited that you have to put up with the existing conditions regarding both the location of the pipes of the heating circuit and the free area on the surface of the walls. Another option - the desire to hide the batteries from the eyes prevails over common sense, and the installation of screens or decorative casings is a matter already decided. This means that in any case, it will be necessary to make adjustments for the total power of the radiators in order to guarantee the required level of heating in the room. Correctly make the appropriate adjustments will help the calculator below.