How to work with an electric planer with maximum efficiency? Planing a wide board with an electric planer: basic rules

Planing with an electric planer is a fairly easy process if there is at least some minimal knowledge. But things are different if you need to process a very wide board.

After all, not everyone can do it efficiently, but it is necessary that the layer be removed evenly from the surface of the board, and the processing boundaries were not visible.

Instructions for planing with an electric planer

Before using a wide board with an electric planer, first experiment on a piece that you do not need.

Note that the electric planer can operate in two modes: stationary and manual.
If you use the stationary mode, then the board is passed through the knives of the electric planer.

Manual mode requires a special setting of the electric planer. First you need to adjust the cutting depth of the knives. Usually they set 0.1-0.4 cm. The smaller the depth of planing, the better the processing of the material will be, and you will practically not notice the boundaries between the passes. If it is necessary to perform deep planing of the board, then first set the maximum cutting depth of the knives, make the first pass, and then reconfigure the knives for better planing.

When you work with an electric planer a couple of times, you will learn how to choose the right depth of cut, and the work process will noticeably speed up.

We process wood: what you need to know?

Before processing lumber, you need to determine the direction in which you will be planing. Usually planed in the direction of the wood fibers. If the lumber is made from several boards, then you need to plan diagonally.

So that the edge of the board does not turn out to be uneven, you need to use an angular stop, which is attached to the base of the electric planer on the side and is perpendicular to its axis.

When you have finished planing a wide board, you will need to align the boundaries between the passes. This stage is called cycling. For this, a special grinder is used, which will remove all roughness.

An electric planer facilitates manual labor, with the help of it the result is of high quality and is achieved quickly. An electric planer is useful to anyone involved in woodworking. It will certainly help in the repair and construction, if wood is used. The rapidly rotating blades of the tool will remove chips of the required thickness from the workpiece, bring the workpiece to the right sizes, make the edges smooth and even, chamfer or make a large bevel, choose a fold.

The power tool must be led along the workpiece, without making significant efforts, which are necessary when working with a conventional planer. The surface is processed in accordance with the settings, the quality does not depend so much on the inaccurate actions of the operator.

What are

On sale you can find household and professional (semi-professional) electric planers. They differ from each other in color and markings. The first ones are cheap and light. The latter are more expensive, more powerful and weighty. Their motor resource is many times greater, they can do work every day for many hours.

As a rule, in living conditions there is no such need, they use an electric planer from time to time, so the purchase of a household model for a home, but from well-known manufacturer, is the usual solution.

The processing width in one pass for household models is usually 82 mm, models with knife lengths (knives are arranged horizontally) of 100 mm and 110 mm are less common. Professional models may have more.

The bed of the tool is divided into two parts - the front, adjustable, which rests on the workpiece in front of the knives, and the back, which rests on the already processed wood.

On the front of the bed there is a longitudinal recess (several recesses of various sizes), into which you can hang the edge of the workpiece when chamfering, which will allow you to chamfer most accurately.

The front handle usually has a chip thickness adjuster (depth of cut).

Another important node is the chip removal system. When planing, a significant amount of chips is formed. The planer has a nozzle into which dust and chips are ejected during operation.

An industrial vacuum cleaner can be connected to the nozzle. But you can also connect a bag to collect chips so as not to clog the room with it.

Some models of electric planers are equipped with such a bag. But you can make it for any model yourself.

How to make a chip bag? You will need a spare tube from the vacuum cleaner, which is connected to the nozzle of the planer. As well as a piece of fabric, a zipper sewn into the fabric to extract chips, and a crimp collar to secure the neck of the bag to the tube.

Some models are equipped with side and top stops, which allow you to guide the planer along the edge of the workpiece at a certain distance from it and to a certain depth of planing. This allows you to make a selection of folds.

Some expensive powerful models are equipped with a planer-thickness tool or a simpler bed, with which the planer can be fixed with knives up, thus obtaining a small planer (thickness machine).

How to change knives

The electric planer is equipped with knives made of high-strength, abrasion-resistant alloys.

If the knives begin to leave a mark on the wood, this indicates that they are damaged and need to be replaced.

The knife, as a rule, has two sharp edges, and if one becomes dull, then the knife just needs to be turned over.

To replace the knives, you must first disconnect the electric planer from the power supply. Then it is necessary to unscrew the screws securing the knife holders and remove the holders from the groove, and then remove the knives from them.

By inserting new knives into the holders (turning over the existing ones), you can assemble in the reverse order

It is important to set the knives in height, which is not easy and requires effort.

The position of the knives is adjusted by the screws of the knife holders. The cutting edges must be set exactly at the level of the rear fixed sole of the electric planer along its entire length. Those. should be in the plane of this sole.

The setting of the electric planer knives is carried out in the following order.
A ruler is placed on the edge on the fixed part of the sole. Then the knives are slowly turned. The edge of the knife should not lift the ruler, but only lightly touch it. This should occur along the entire length of the knife - when the ruler is moved along the width of the sole.

The operation of setting the knives in height is performed several times with a ruler until the best result is achieved.

But it is possible to move the knives due to centrifugal forces during rotation. Therefore, after setting the knives along the ruler, the planer is turned on and kept at idle for about 20 seconds, after which they again check the position of the knives and, if necessary, adjust them. Periodically, the position of the knives is checked during operation.

Features of working with an electric planer

The effort of moving (feeding) the planer along the workpiece must be such that the speed of rotation of the knives does not change

The quality of processing will be high if the movement of the planer over the workpiece is smooth, slow enough so that there is no significant slowdown in the rotation of the knives.

Processing is started after the engine and knives have developed the nominal idle speed.

The workpiece must be firmly fixed on the workbench or its stop must be strong.

Chips from the workpiece should be removed in a timely manner. It is important that the chips do not fall under the sole of the planer, this must be constantly monitored.

Planing usually starts from the end of the workpiece, the front of the sole of the planer is placed on the workpiece, then with a smooth movement of the planer it moves forward along the workpiece.

When the knives enter and leave the workpiece, the planer is pressed against the workpiece with increased force to prevent the occurrence of unplanned places along the edges of the workpiece.

To obtain high quality and uniformity of processing, longer workpieces are used than required. After planing, the ends of the workpiece are cut off.

Professional electric planers can be turned into a stationary planer for planing wood using a planer-thickness tool. The electric planer is installed on the frame up with knives, which are closed with a protective curtain. It is important that on this machine you can set the required dimensions of the part and use them to make several parts from different-sized blanks. At the same time, the accuracy of right angles and the cleanliness of processing remain quite high.

The work is carried out as follows. On all blanks, one face is processed. Then the machine is reconfigured and the next face is processed on all workpieces, etc. To maintain a right angle, the workpiece is firmly pressed against the side stop of the fixture. When working, you should not approach the planer and follow the workpiece, you need to feed it, intercepting it in your hands.

Handling difficult places

When choosing an electric planer, you need to pay attention to its complete set with stops or the possibility of their additional purchase and use with this model.

Many beginners are interested in the question of how to work with an electric planer. At first glance, there is nothing complicated: plug it into an outlet, press a button, drive back and forth along the surface, removing chips. However, at the first attempts, the result is far from always impressive.

When buying a tool, you need to check its performance, completeness and appearance. It is worth paying attention to the quality of sharpening the installed knives. If there are spare knives in the kit, you need to check them too. The cutting edge should be smooth, sharp, without potholes and bends. All other settings must be checked at home in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Checking and adjusting the position of the front plate

All tool adjustments must be made in the off state. The plug must be pulled out of the socket, otherwise you can not only disable the electric planer, but also cause serious injury.

When checking the position of the knives, the front plate must be set to the position of the minimum planing depth with the standard adjustment knob. Set the electric planer on a flat hard surface with the drum up.

To check, you can use a metal ruler or a piece window glass suitable sizes. The drum with knives should be rotated until one of the knives is in the upper position, above the axis of the drum. The ruler or glass must be laid on the plates along the planer. The surfaces must be in the same plane.

If the control device is tilted on any of the plates, check the position of the front plate and adjust it. Such a defect occurs during prolonged use of the tool without Maintenance. Internal cavities can become clogged with wood dust and small chips. Excessive force on the depth adjustment knob will move it out of its original position.

To eliminate the defect, you need to remove the handle, front plate, clean the cavities from dust and chips, and lubricate. Install the plate in place, check the installation on the ruler, fix the handle, checking the coincidence of the dial with the index mark.

Cutting edge adjustment

Adjusting the position of the knives is carried out according to two parameters:

height of the cutting edge relative to the back plate;
the size of the protruding part of the knife for planing quarters.

Having installed a ruler or glass, you need to turn the drum, controlling the gap between the knife and the fixture along the edges of the plates. The edge of the knife should lightly touch the fixture without lifting it. If the knife clings to the fixture or does not reach it, the position must be corrected.

Usually the knives are fastened with a special wedge with expanding bolts. With a key of 8 or 10, you need to wrap the bolts in a wedge until the bolt free play appears. Then, with the installed eccentrics, align the height of the cutting edge with the fixture. Tighten (unscrew) the fixing bolts, check the position again. The desired result can be achieved after several repetitions of this operation.

At the same time as adjusting the height of the cutting edge, the protruding part of the quartering knife must be controlled. Optimal size must be specified in the manufacturer's instructions. On most models, it is 1 mm. The size is set by moving the knife to the left or right along the axis of the drum. It is important to set the size correctly. It should be the same for all knives. This can be achieved by using a specific size feeler gauge or by measuring the distance with a caliper (columb with a protruding back) from the edge of the knife to the drum. After adjusting the first knife, you need to move on to the next ones. The operation for all knives is carried out in the same way. If some knife cannot be set in the required position, you need to remove the wedge, check the eccentrics for integrity and free rotation.

It is necessary to complete the adjustment by checking the free rotation of the drum and the fastening of all knives.

Preparation for work

You can work with the tool in two positions:

stationary position: the electric planer is attached to a hard, stable surface;
portable: the tool is moved manually along the workpiece.

Many models come with special clamps and a bracket for the start button. In a stationary position, it is more convenient to process lumber of small length, which can be moved through the tool alone. It is desirable to process long workpieces with an electric planer in a portable version.

Wood must be dried, raw lumber is poorly processed. The board must be well fixed on a hard surface. The part should not bend under the weight of the planer and move in any direction during operation. When processing side surfaces on a workbench, it is advisable to install them on special fasteners that protect them from bending and moving. In the area of rotation of the drum with knives, there should be no metal elements (brackets, nails, screws) on the treated surface and fasteners. A blow to the metal will leave a gouge on the knives, and a protrusion will form on the treated surface. Knives will have to be sharpened by removing a thick layer of metal, or changed.

Surface treatment

An electric planer can perform three operations:

chamfer at different angles;
choose quarters on blanks;
cut surfaces.

The main purpose of the tool is to plan surfaces of various lengths and widths.

When working, the planer must be placed on the surface of the workpiece with the front plate so that the knives do not touch the surface. Press the start button, after a set of revolutions (the sound stops changing the tone), start moving the planer over the surface. The tool must be held strictly parallel to the surface to be treated, the movement must be uniform, without jerks and stops. At the beginning of the movement, you need to increase the pressure on the front part, when leaving the surface on the back part. The planer should work smoothly, without vibration. If there is a strong vibration, the sound changes during operation, you need to turn off the tool, determine and eliminate the cause of abnormal operation.

The depth of the pass must be set depending on the purpose of processing. If you want to change the stock size, you can use the maximum size. When leveling the surface, it is desirable to work with a small depth of processing, achieving the required quality in several passes.

Also, the depth of processing depends on the material. Hard rock should be run several times at shallow depths so as not to overload the tool.

Additional features of the tool

To chamfer, you need to use a special triangular groove cut on the front plate of the planer.

The tool should be set with a groove at the corner for processing, run and move along the part, keeping the slope. The first pass is made along the slot, subsequent passes, if necessary, are carried out in the usual manner.

To make quarters on a planer, you need to install an additional stop to limit movement away from the direction of movement. The second stop, which limits the depth of the quarter, is located on the side surface. The stops must be set to required dimensions. The distance should be measured from the corner of the cutting edge of the knife in the up position. Quarter sampling is performed in several passes. If vertical surface quarters will turn out to be steps, it is necessary to increase the protrusion of the knives beyond the side surface of the planer.

A wide surface of lumber can be processed in several passes. Processing must begin from the left edge, setting the adjustment to the minimum depth. The next pass should be carried out with an offset to the right by about a third of the length of the knives. In this way, you need to go over the entire width of the workpiece. If the quality is unsatisfactory, repeat the surface treatment in the same way.

Conclusion on the topic

An electric planer will help to significantly reduce the time of work, save money on the purchase of lumber.

When working, you must comply with the necessary safety requirements to avoid serious injuries to the limbs and other parts of the body.

There are many planers and planers for planing boards. However, if the board is quite wide, more than 200mm, then it is rather problematic to cut it evenly, along the plane, since one side of the board is convex, and the other with curved edges.

In this case, it is better to use different planing methods. The first way is to walk not with a wide electric planer, through protruding places. This is done in order to evenly carry out planing and prevent the plane of the board from skewing to one of its edges.

At the same time, strict protruding edges, it is necessary, with a small planing thickness, to go through the same number of times on one and the other side. In conclusion, we plan the board on a wide planer. If there is no planer, then on the electric planer, special knives with rounded ends are installed so that there is a protrusion between narrow passages, since the width of the planer during planing is less than the board.

If you have a large machine, then in order to avoid distortions when planing an uneven board, convex on one side, chips are poured onto the frame, after which the board is rubbed and lies flat during planing. Such a simple technique allows you to avoid skew when planing.

The clamping device that many planers are equipped with should not be neglected, as they not only press the board, but also press it evenly. When reaching a flat surface of the board, the main thing is well-sharpened and adjusted knives, plus a thin layer of planing.

If your planer is narrower than the board being processed, then the board should be planed in one pass, then on one side, then on the other. Thus. You will achieve a flat surface of a wide board.

To begin with, let us briefly formulate the tasks of a planer, as a special class in hand tool: a planer is a woodworking tool for removing chips from the surface with a cutting edge of a blade (knife) fixed in a planer. Its main task in woodworking is the creation and alignment of planes.

With the help of an electric planer, the following more complex operations are also performed:

planing boards, individual plates;
chamfering at specified angles;
by sampling grooves from the edges of the workpiece.

Mounted on a shaft that rotates with an electric motor. It can be said that the fundamental difference between manual and electric planers lies in the difference in their performance, since on a manual planer the chips are removed manually - by energetic movements of the planer with a knife (lezgoy) fixed in it from itself along the workpiece. At the same time, special skills are required to obtain a high-quality result. Yes, and the amount of work performed by a manual planer directly depends on the same skills, dexterity, and physical capabilities of a person working with a manual planer.

Working with an electric planer is incomparably more convenient. It is possible to efficiently process wood with an electric planer both along the direction of the wood fibers and across. The highest quality at the surface of a wooden blank can be achieved, provided that the processing takes place along the fibers of the material. Processing across wood fibers is also used, but, as a rule, only when roughing the material. The extremely high quality of the surface in this case, of course, cannot be achieved, but you can get as close as possible to a certain ideal, knowing and applying special secrets in working with an electric planer. We will try to reveal for you the most interesting of them. To begin with, as far as it is necessary to remember that in any case, regardless of the type of your planer, it is strongly recommended to securely fix the workpiece being processed before starting its processing. This is the most important safety requirement: an electric planer, with the movement of its rotating sharp knife, can tear out the workpiece, throw it strongly and far to the side. Such an uncontrolled flight of it can easily turn into an injury for someone (unlike a manual planer, which, with “sharp”, incorrect actions of a person, will simply knock the workpiece out of its mount).

We have already mentioned that the main function in work for electric planers is to level some pre-roughly processed wooden surface. After high-quality processing of the planer, such a surface remains not just leveled - it is possible to make it perfectly even and very smooth. All irregularities and defects can disappear after processing with an electric planer. For finishing, finishing wooden surfaces, grinding planes are often used, the design of which provides for the use of knives that have a precisely adjusted low speed. Such grinding planers can provide so high quality the wooden surface treated by them, which makes it possible to refuse the subsequent operation of its grinding.

With the help of an electric planer, you can make grooves in workpieces, create chamfers and perform many other operations, if only the design and power of your planer allows it. Therefore, before buying it is useful to evaluate not only the power of the electric planer, but also the width of its planing. A blade width of 82mm is standard on most handheld electric planers, but professional planers can have planing widths up to 10cm.

Like any power tool, planers differ among themselves depending on the power of their electric motors. The frequency of rotation of the shaft with blades on the planer directly depends on this indicator and determines the possible depth of processing of the workpiece on this planer. It is the speed of rotation of the shaft with knives, in many respects, that ensures the quality of the surface obtained as a result of work on a wooden workpiece.

The optimal power for an electric plane can be considered to be 700-750 watts, although it is useful to mention the wonderful Japanese planers with a power of 1050 watts or German cordless planers with a battery voltage of 14.4 volts. When choosing an electric planer for themselves, professionals pay close attention, in addition to power, to:

planer weight
diameter of its drum with cutting knives
width and depth of processing possible on it.

In an electric planer, the diameter of the drum falls into the number important factors, since the value of this element can compensate for the small power of the planer electric motor. For the quality of the treated surface, the accuracy with which the set values are set for the depth of the passage on the planer is also of great importance. It can be considered a good recommendation that the step of changing the depth of the passage has a value of at least one tenth of a millimeter. Since experienced craftsmen for different materials and different frequencies of processing use different knives on their planer, then for dynamic work it will be convenient for the selected electric planer to have a mechanism for quick replacement of knives. For real important point In assessing the success of the planer design, one can also name the material from which its sole is made, as well as the quality of its surface. The ideal case would be an option in which the sole of the electric planer slides on the board without any difficulty, but the tool itself remains extremely stable. Absolutely smooth surface of the bed obviously does not contribute to this. Therefore, on high-quality electric planers, the sole is cast and specially milled (including from the ends), while applying small, frequent “rifling” of a U-shaped shape. You can see them only with good side lighting, but sometimes you can feel them with your finger by running it along the surface of the base.

The workpiece on the workbench must be securely fixed and always in a horizontal position. Remember that a correctly fixed workpiece should not have any backlash or wobble.

When installing your electric planer on a workpiece, first align the edge of its sole or the end of the blade (if it protrudes) with the drawn line, then firmly press the side stop of the planer to the edge of the board and fix it in this position.

It is advisable to move along the workpiece parallel to your electric planer from the beginning to the very end of each pass. It must be held with both hands.

So that the chamfer does not turn out to be rounded at the end, you should keep the worker running smoothly, without longitudinal skew. And even better, before the start of the passage - take your tool so that the knives are near the end of the board. However, remember: there should not be direct contact between the planer and the workpiece at the moment of switching on.

A chamfer with pre-set parameters for it can also be removed using its special markup. To do this, you first need to draw a line of a given bevel at the end of your workpiece. Then, placing the electric planer at the desired angle, move its knives close to the end of the workpiece and adjust the depth of planing along it so that the planer blades are exactly aligned with the line you have drawn. For accuracy, you can use the stop with adjustable angle.

If you have no experience in chamfering, do not be lazy and make several rough passes before work: after each of them, make adjustments to your work as necessary. This will help you get used to your power tool.

Even the most high-quality and expensive electric planers can have various planing defects. The most frequent among them are:

"beveled profile"
"cuts".

As a disadvantage of planing, "beveled profile" is more common and "cured" with difficulty. But it is revealed simply: if you make two or more passes with a slight overlap of their width between them, then tiny, but still noticeable protrusions form on the surface of the workpiece. The reason for their occurrence lies in the fact that the edge of one or both knives of your planer is slightly skewed. Before starting planing along the line, it is imperative to consider how both planer planer knives are located relative to the edge of its sole. Be guided in this by the rule that it is not the sole of the planer that should move along the line, but the ends of its knives.

"Infeeds" "become relevant" for the beginning or end of the passage of the planer over the workpiece, when the back sole runs into the board or moves out of it. Visually, they are immediately recognized by the relatively rapid change in depth. If you feel such a "rise" at a small distance from the beginning of the workpiece, then the blades of your planer, apparently, are still located slightly above the level of its rear bed. Feelings of "descent" towards the end of the passage with a planer indicate that the knives, on the contrary, protrude unnecessarily. Even for very experienced woodworkers, a certain amount of unevenness remains at the beginning and at the end of the passage of the planer on the board. The difference is that true craftsmen know how to get rid of them quickly: you just need to leave a small margin along the length of the workpiece. Edges with defects will not be difficult to saw off.

All these defects are associated with inaccurate installation of cutting knives in the drum. To eliminate them, loosen the clamp of the knife holders, and then tighten the adjusting screws with a hexagon, which raise or lower the right or left sides of the clamping block on the electric planer: this is how the correct position is set for them. Details about this are always written in the instructions that accompany each branded planer, but this operation is very delicate, so do not hesitate to entrust it to the service masters for fidelity and do not skimp on it.

If for some reason service workshops are out of your reach, try to help yourself to eradicate defects in planing yourself. For this:

The electric planer must be disconnected from the network. The blades of his knives are so sharp that at their nominal rotation speed of 15,000 rpm. a simple cut is not limited to an unexpected accidental touch. Have pity on your fingers, and for this - reliably de-energize your tool. Do not neglect this - even domestic dogs are euthanized during treatment, and after all, planer knives are much more traumatic than their teeth.
Applying an exact ruler to the edge of the sole of your planer, establish exactly whether the ends of the cutting knives reach it.
If the knives are missing to the edge, loosen the bolts holding the blade holder to the drum of your planer to slightly move the knives to the side - so that they are flush with the ruler. There should not be a large gap here, for fidelity, only the most miserable "spade" over the edge can be left.
Tighten all bolts firmly on the corrected positions of the knives, and at the end be sure to check their tightness.
Scroll the planer drum with your hands and see if the knives you installed do not touch the body of the electric planer.

If you know in advance that you will use your electric planer far from service centers for its repair - immediately upon purchase, try to find such a model as the MAKITA KP0810 electric planer - with additional adjustment in the height of its shoe, which limits the depth of sampling a quarter on a planer.

After a qualitatively done similar operation, the "steps" from the surfaces processed by your planer should disappear completely and irrevocably.

Disposable electric planer knives often have a double-sided edge, so at first a dull blade is simply turned upside down. However, if it becomes necessary to replace one severely blunt cutting blade, be sure to replace all other blades in your planer drum with new ones. Otherwise, an imbalance of its shaft may occur, from which a strong vibration will appear during operation.

Do not lose sight of the moment when you happen to feel the "hole" in the middle of the workpiece. This defect in the work of a planer often manifests itself due to the fact that your pressure on the electric planer has changed dramatically. The reason may be that you are moving your instrument in jerks. When working with an electric planer, it is always a good idea to guide your tool slowly and very evenly. The stability of the parameters of the movement of the planer along the workpiece is the key to accuracy, no matter what specific work the electric planer is currently performing.

To achieve a good result, you should always try to guide the tool evenly, with constant pressure, avoiding lifting your electric planer at some points in the passage. It is highly desirable to avoid slowdowns or stops in the middle of the passage, after which traces in the form of the above-mentioned "pits" will surely remain.

You should not blindly rely on the accuracy of setting your electric planer in terms of the depth of its one-time pass. So, if you set a depth of 2 mm in this setting and make 10 passes, this will not mean that exactly 2 cm has been removed. In such cases, it is always better to navigate by the profile of the groove being created drawn on the end of the workpiece (deviations will be immediately visible). Try to guess in your work so that the last pass on the workpiece is made by you to the smallest depth. In order for the depth of planing to be relatively constant throughout the passage of the planer over the entire workpiece, it is necessary at the beginning of the passage to press harder on the front of the electric planer, and at the end of the passage - already on the back. Pay your special attention to the fact that at the end of the passage, when the side stop of the planer has already moved off the board, for the rest of the distance your electric planer goes as if by inertia, clearly maintaining the direction previously set for it. Do not try to quickly correct his "course" here, because any movement of the hand to the side in this dangerous area will lead to irregularities.

Try to direct your planer in the course of your work, keeping it strictly horizontal, without any transverse distortions. Otherwise, it may turn out that you "fill up" the right corner for yourself. This becomes especially true when planing narrow slots, when your planer is quite unstable.

If, by negligence, at the end of the next pass of the planer, a small “step” remains on the workpiece, then, as experienced craftsmen encourage, it can be removed during the next pass by pressing your planer very tightly against the wall of the groove being created.

Before proceeding with the planned work, look at the maximum depth of a quarter for your planer. For each electric planer, a certain value is set. Compare your plans with him.

The secret for a high-quality selection of a quarter for a groove: here you should always take into account that the side stop of your planer moves along the edge of the board, therefore, the planer itself only repeats the profile of this edge, and it is not always even. Therefore, when working with a side stop, it is useful to guide the electric planer with one hand, and with the other hand firmly, although not too much, press its side stop to the end of the board. At the same time, it is necessary to advance the electric planer so that the side surface of the frame fits snugly against the edge of the already made groove. Your pressure on the instrument in this movement should be directed not only forward, but also sideways.

If possible, always try to connect a vacuum cleaner to the work of your planer. The experience of such connections shows that with it there will be practically no waste left after working on the workbench and the floor of your workshop. It will not be necessary to tediously clean the electric planer and clean the room, which you don’t want to do after a long work, and the service life of the planer when working “hand in hand” with a vacuum cleaner will increase significantly.