What to do if phalaenopsis leaves do not grow. The leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid turn yellow: why and what to do? Pests and fungal diseases

Looking at the photo of the Phalaenopsis orchid, few flower growers will remain indifferent to this spectacular flower. In addition, these plants are relatively unpretentious in care. However, they can also be affected by a dangerous disease or harmful insects. In this case, from proper treatment depends on the life of the orchid.

What conditions are required for the Phalaenopsis orchid

Most often, the poor health of an orchid is signaled by its leaves: they begin to turn yellow, wither, dry out. It doesn't always mean illness. Novice amateur flower growers are faced, rather, with a violation of the rules of care.

Orchid owners should be mindful of the natural aging of the flower. Phalaenopsis loses one or two lower leaves every year.

Required level of illumination

Phalaenopsis orchids do not tolerate direct hits. sun rays but love good lighting. That's why the best place for their placement there will be a window sill on the east or west side of the room.

On the south window, an orchid of this species must be shaded, moving away from the glass or covering it with a screen from a source of direct light.

Do not forget that proper growth and healthy development are possible with 12-15 hours of daylight. From mid-autumn and throughout the winter, install additional lighting over the orchids, for example, a phytolamp. This light source is the best option, it does not damage the leaves. The only rule is that the lamp should be no closer than 20 cm from the plant.

If the leaves have darkened, become soft and elongated, then this indicates a lack of light.

External factors: temperature and humidity in the room

Orchids are tropical flowers, they need warmth. For Phalaenopsis, you need to maintain the room temperature within 20–25 ° C. The minimum allowable for an orchid (and then in certain cases, for example, during a dormant period) is not lower than 12 ° C.

The ideal humidity level for this type of plant is 70–80%. It is difficult to achieve such an indicator in the entire room, and besides, it is not very useful for people. The best option there will be regular airing of the room (but do it carefully, Phalaenopsis do not tolerate cold drafts) and increase the humidity in one of the following ways.

Proper watering

For a Phalaenopsis orchid, it is better to use water:

• rain;
• settled for at least a day;
• boiled;
• passed through a household filter.

If you wrap 10 g of peat in cheesecloth, dip this bag in 10 liters of water and leave for a day, this will soften the water.

Watering rules:

If the problem is clearly beyond acceptable limits, and is not related to aging or care errors, you will have to look for the cause in the disease and pests.

Video: about the rules for caring for orchids

Table: diseases and pests characteristic of Phalaenopsis orchids

Table: how to make a diagnosis by external signs

Phalaenopsis orchid disease control

Most often, the appearance of the Phalaenopsis orchid suffers due to improper care. If you notice this in a timely manner and begin to correct the situation, the plant will quickly get stronger and take on a healthy appearance. But if time is lost, then fungal, viral and bacterial diseases will attack the weakened flower, which can very quickly destroy the orchid.

The consequences of violating the rules of watering: why the leaves become lethargic and fall off

Phalaenopsis orchids are accustomed to high indoor humidity. Many novice flower growers try to compensate for the lack of moisture with frequent and plentiful watering. This is fundamentally wrong: in Phalaenopsis, from such an attitude, the leaves lose turgor and crumble.

If this happened during the hot season, do the following:

• wait for the substrate to dry and continue to water the flower every 2-3 days;
• maintain the required humidity;
• in the middle of the day, use a fan, placing it 2-3 m from the plants and turning it on at low power.

In winter, water Phalaenopsis no more than 2 times a week, and carry out ventilation by opening windows daily for 30 minutes. It is advisable to do this in not too windy weather.

Edema: what can cause the root system to rot

Low room temperature, abundant watering and water ingress on the leaf plate can lead to the development of edema on the leaves of Phalaenopsis. Because of this, over time, the roots begin to rot. In the cold season, keep orchid pots away from window sills, reduce watering, and remember to remove excess water from the pan.

Exposure to low temperatures: why dark spots appear

IN winter time Phalaenopsis orchids need years special care because they are not cold hardy. Keep the plant warm (at least 16°C) and regularly ventilate, avoid spraying. Otherwise, the leaves will be covered with dark spots of fungal origin.

If you bought a Phalaenopsis orchid from a store and brought it home in the fall and winter, you may run into another problem. The flower is hard to adapt in cold weather, its leaves are frostbitten and covered with white spots. Cut off the affected areas to healthy tissue and sprinkle the sections with crushed activated charcoal.

Fungal diseases: why rot or white bloom appear on the plant

Most often, we owe the development of fungal diseases on an orchid to improper watering, non-compliance temperature regime and excessive moisture. Most of all, Phalaenopsis is susceptible to powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray rot, and less often to rust.

Bacterial diseases: for what reason leaves turn yellow or darken

Of this type of disease, the Phalaenopsis orchid is most often affected by brown spotting. As soon as you notice yellowing, darkening or softening of the leaves, the appearance of ulcers with a sticky liquid, immediately cut out the infected areas completely. Grease the edges with iodine.

Viral diseases: is it possible to save the plant

Phalaenopsis orchids are not sufficiently resistant to viruses, and if they become infected, then it is very difficult to cure them. Most likely, the diseased plant will have to be destroyed, since there are no absolutely effective drugs and methods, and the virus can easily spread to neighboring flowers. If you see mosaic-like spots, circles and stripes on the leaves, show the orchid to a specialist who will confirm or refute the diagnosis.

Photo gallery: diseases characteristic of the Phalaenopsis orchid

Brown spot most often affects Phalaenopsis orchids
Rot plows the roots and neck of the orchid
Fungal diseases are dangerous for Phalaenopsis
With powdery mildew, the leaf is covered with a white coating

Video: care errors that cause orchid diseases

Phalaenopsis Pest Control Methods

Having purchased an orchid in a store, do not rush to immediately put it on the window, where other flowers are already located. On the plant and in the substrate may be insects, and often dangerous.

Phalaenopsis orchid pests can infect the plant itself or the root system.

Thrips: who leaves light paths

Since Phalaenopsis is thermophilic, it is most often grown indoors with high temperature. Tiny thrips (their size is no more than 2.5 mm) also love warmth, so they are happy to settle on almost all types of orchids. The problem is that it is difficult to detect insects: they usually hide in the substrate. Their presence is evidenced by black dots and silvery paths on the leaves.

Thrips destroy the entire plant: juices are sucked out of the leaves and stems, larvae are laid in the roots.

Having found traces of thrips activity, carry out the following activities:

1. Treat the orchid, the substrate and all the plants that were nearby with a solution of Actellik or Fitoverm.
2. Repeat the treatment 3 times every 7-10 days.

Shields and false shields: where did the sticky spots come from

As soon as you see characteristic brown or yellowish tubercles on the stems and leaves of an orchid, you should know that the plant is affected by a false shield. Such plaques are not always immediately noticeable, but they are the "house" of an adult female insect.

The larva of the false shield crawls over the plant in search of a suitable place, after which it sticks to it, drawing out the juices, and eventually becomes covered with a brown film-shield.

Larvae and adults feed on the juices of the flower and leave behind a sticky liquid, which becomes a good environment for the development of fungi and rot.

Shchitovka is also often found on Phalaenopsis. Its shell cover is denser than that of the false shield, rounded-convex and covered with a wax coating. The effect on the plant is almost the same.

Ways to solve the problem

• wash the plant thoroughly with soapy water;
• remove the remaining pests;
• treat the plant and substrate with Aktellik or Fitoverma solution;
• spray again after 7-10 days;
• transplant the flower into a new substrate.

Mealybugs: what is the cause of withering leaves

Phalaenopsis orchids can be significantly affected by the mealybug as this pest is not easy to spot. A small white insect with an elongated body covered with fluff hides at the roots, bases of leaves and at their junctions. The worm sucks the juice from the plant, leaving behind a powdery liquid. You can definitely notice them when the leaves of the flower dry out.

What to do to get rid of the mealybug

• completely remove dry leaves and roots from the orchid;
• carefully examine all hidden areas of the plant, select all pests found using toothpicks;
• every day inspect the orchid for new worms;
• regularly wipe all affected areas with soapy water;
• treat the substrate 2-3 times at weekly intervals with Fitoverm;
• all month examine the orchid. If you do not find new individuals, then the problem is solved.

Whiteflies: why the leaves withered

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by tiny white butterflies themselves and their larvae. Due to their impact, the flower weakens, the leaves dry. Adults lay their larvae in roots and on leaves.

To fix the problem, you need:

• wash the orchid and substrate with soapy water;
• spray the plant with Fitoverma solution, repeat after a week.

Aphids: because of which it is difficult for the plant to breathe

The tiny insects themselves are not so much dangerous to the orchid as their excrement. The secretions cover the leaf with a sticky layer, blocking the plant's breathing and becoming a convenient environment for bacteria and fungi.

The remedy is as follows:

• wash the plant with soapy water;
• treat the plant and substrate with Fitoverma solution.

Ticks: who entangled the buds with cobwebs

An orchid can become infected with ticks both at home and in a greenhouse. There are 3 types of spider mites. In fact, they are almost identical and affect the plant in the same way: they make numerous punctures of the leaves, through which they suck out the juice. These traces are clearly visible on the leaf plates, which begin to dry, turn white and discolor. The buds are falling off.

Spider mite elimination

• collect all the ticks from the orchid by hand;
• thoroughly wash the flowerpot and the window sill under it;
• Treat the entire orchid and substrate with Fitoverma solution. Repeat treatment after a week.

Nematodes: what is the reason for stopping growth

Very small nematode worms no more than 2 mm in size penetrate the stems and roots of the orchid, feed on its juices and poison the products of their vital activity. The orchid stops growing, rots.

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by both adults and whitefly larvae.
Traces of the mite cover the entire surface of the leaf
Mealybugs are not easy to spot between orchid leaves.
In the presence of nematodes, the Phalaenopsis orchid stops its growth
Due to the sticky secretions of aphids, the respiratory process is difficult in orchid leaves.
Thrips suck all the juices out of the orchid

Since the first description of the orchid as a species, it has become an incredibly popular decoration for botanical gardens, greenhouses and home flower beds. With external fragility and tenderness, orchids are quite hardy, and thanks to breeding research, it was possible to develop new varieties adapted to our conditions and it became easier to grow at home.

Home orchids are epiphytes - plants with a root system open type covered with velamen. Through the porous layer, orchids absorb moisture from environment and soils, in nature grow on trees or rocky gorges.

Modern, "domesticated" species can be divided into groups according to the complexity of care:

• For beginner flower growers. These are the most adapted plants: Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis, Epidendrum.
• For advanced gardeners. These are: Brassia, Tselogina, Dendrobium.
• For professional breeders of orchids Cattleya, Miltonia, etc.

According to the type of growth, orchids are sympodial and monopodial. Sympodial plants have horizontally growing shoots united in a rhizome. Flower stalks come out of the shoots, mostly one or two (depending on the species of orchid).

In some sympodial plants, shoots appear with leaves, from which flower stalks emerge.

At the base of the shoots there are thickenings - bulbs that serve to accumulate water, useful substances for future escapes. But the structure of the bulbs differs from the classic flower bulbs, so it would be more correct to call them "pseudobulbs".

The monopodial type includes ascocenda, vanda and phalnopsis orchids. The plant develops from one main shoot, with alternate growth of leaves. Phalaenopsis have thick shoots similar to bamboo, and they also serve to reserve the accumulation of moisture and nutrients.

Leaves turn yellow - reasons: improper care

Stressful conditions affect the appearance of the plant - the leaves turn yellow, fall off, become stained, and the flower itself fades. Negative changes are noted with a sharp change in the microclimate, low humidity, abundant watering, injury to the rhizome or damage by pests.

The yellowing of the lower leaves may be justified by aging processes. The death of the leaves occurs within 2-3 months and affects only the lower tiers. Complete yellowing and seasonal leaf fall is observed only in dendrobium orchids.

Causes of yellowing leaves in an orchid:

• Natural aging of the leaf. Yellowing of one or two lower leaves with normal color is characteristic of phalaenopsis orchids, paphiopedilum.
• Flaw . Orchid Phalaenopsis belongs to the light-loving species. With a lack of light, the plant can grow for 1-2 years, after which it begins to fade.
• Yellowing leaves after sunburn. If the flower stood on the south or west side in sunny weather, then yellowed areas appear on the leaves. It is enough to move the orchid to a less lit place where the burnt leaf or part of it will dry out.
• Insufficient watering of orchids. With a lack of moisture, the leaves of the flower shrivel and fall off, but before taking on watering, the condition of the roots is assessed - not always the reason for the leaves to wither in a dry substrate. Normally, the color of the roots is light green, with a slight pearly sheen, a change in color indicates diseases - they can be caused by harmful insects or fungal infections, rot. If a week after watering the condition of the orchid has not improved, it is recommended to re-examine.
• Sparse but plentiful watering. The substrate must not be overdried or flooded with water. Waterlogging of the roots leads to the development of diseases and yellowing of the leaves, and wilting. Signs of excess moisture in the pot: not only the color of the lower leaves changes; to the touch, the leaf becomes less dense, moist, which indicates rotting; the appearance of dark spots on yellowed leaves; darkening of the roots or the appearance of black spots on them; change in the stem of the plant - darkening and the appearance of plaque. Visually it seems that the plant is not fixed in the ground.
• Acceleration of flower growth with the help of fertilizers and stimulants. In greenhouse cultivation of orchids, increased doses of top dressing are used to accelerate flower growth. After a year or two, the flower is depleted: the growth of new leaves stops, and the old ones begin to turn yellow and fall off. When transplanted into a new soil mixture, the situation does not change, but it is possible to restore the flower. The pot with the plant is transferred to a warm and well-lit place, after which, according to the scheme, top dressing is carried out every 14 days. For the first top dressing, a highly diluted ordinary orchid fertilizer is used (dilute to 50% concentration). Later, nitrogen fertilizer is used to grow leaves and strengthen.

Orchid roots are sensitive to potassium-based, phosphorus - with a high concentration of the solution, the risk of burning the root system of the flower increases. In case of an overdose, the plant is washed well under warm running water, re-feeding should be done no earlier than after a month and a half.

In order for the Phalaenopsis orchid to please with a well-groomed appearance and lush flowering, it is necessary to create comfortable conditions for the flower:

1. Place for a pot. The plant is suitable protected from direct sunlight place with light shade. This could be a window sill on the west, northeast, or east side of the house, or a small table by the window. Phalaenopsis does not belong to light-loving orchids and with prolonged contact with the sun's rays, light brown or brown burns form on the leaves.
2. Temperature regime. If you keep the plant in a shaded place at a temperature of 18-25 C, the duration of flowering increases. The maximum allowable temperature is 35 C, with a prolonged increase in temperature, the leaf density decreases, flowering stops. For normal growth optimum temperature fluctuates between 15-25 C.
3. Humidity percentage. The comfortable value of air humidity for phalaenopsis is in the range of 30-40%. An increased value with poor ventilation creates conditions for the development of rot on the root system and leaves, and low humidity affects the tone of the orchid and flowering.
4. . Watering Phalaenopsis is carried out when the substrate is completely dry, but you can not keep the orchid in conditions of aggressive aridity. With insufficient moisture, the root system of the plant brightens. Normally, the color of the roots of an orchid is bright green, and on the walls of the pot (if it is transparent), droplets of condensate are visible. It is best to water the orchid by immersing it in water or by pouring over the substrate. It is not advisable to water the leaves - if the water is not High Quality, then spots form on their surface. Once a month, the surface of the leaves is recommended to be washed under running water, and then wiped.
5. Fertilizer. It is most convenient to fertilize an orchid when watering, strictly observing the proportions of bait. With excessive and frequent feeding, cracks appear on the leaves.
6. Bloom. To stimulate flowering, Phalaenopsis is recommended to be kept cool and watered less often, it will be enough to spray the substrate from a spray bottle. To prolong flowering up to six months, it is enough to adhere to the temperature regime, observe the optimal humidity and diffused lighting. At the end of the flowering period, the peduncle is usually pruned.
7. Root and leaf care. When the aerial part of the root dies, it is removed. Healthy lower leaves are cleaned every 20-30 days under running water and rubbed.
8. . A recently purchased orchid does not need to be transplanted, it is better to do this after flowering. The substrate is replaced every three years, when it becomes caked and loses some of its nutritional properties. The composition of the soil mixture includes bark, at low humidity, moss is added to the mixture - it absorbs and retains moisture. Before transplanting, the bark is soaked for 2 days in clean water, after which crushed is added to it. The mixture ready for transplanting can be used throughout the day.

Leaves turn yellow - causes: diseases

Yellowing of the leaves occurs when the root system is affected by bacteria and fungi. In severe cases, the entire plant becomes infected and dies:

• The causative agent of black rot is a fungus. It spreads quickly and is easily transmitted to healthy orchids.
• With root rot, the roots of the plant are the first to be affected, after which the fungal infection covers the tuberidia and leaves. It appears in the form of black dense spots.
• The causative agents of brown rot are the bacteria Erwinia, Pseudomonas. Young flowers are often affected, if the infection covers the growing point and stems, then the orchid dies. Appears as brown watery areas.
• The reason for rust, fusarium, gray rot is a fungus. First, the leaves turn yellow, then soften and become covered with rot containing spores.
• Among viral diseases, phalaenopsis is more often affected by cymbidium mosaic, ring virus, cattleya mosaic.

What to do, how to cure an orchid?

To cure an orchid from a viral, bacterial or fungal disease, the cause and sources of infection are specified. Further treatment tactics are aimed at destroying the diseased plant (if the root, growth point, rhizome is affected) or removing the affected leaves on early stage infections.

For infections caused by fungi, treatment is indicated: "Fundazol" 0.2%, "Topsin-M" 0.2% and other drugs for a period of at least 10 days. For the purpose of prevention, the treatment is repeated after 30 days.

Leaves turn yellow - causes: pests

It is much easier to prevent the appearance of harmful insects than to treat an affected plant. It is recommended to check each new plant for the presence of insects - for this, the top of the pot is wrapped with polyethylene and the flower is immersed in water. Scales or nematodes can be identified by examining the substrate.

More information can be found in the video:

Orchids are imported from tropical and subtropical regions of the world. These are hardy plants, they are able to overcome prolonged droughts, starvation, lack of attention, and at the same time they can wither from excessive care. For several months, the plant can endure the expansion of the human "stupid" attitude towards itself.

But when he begins to show signs of ill health, get ready for a long rehabilitation period.

Phalaenopsis orchids are very popular with flower growers. They are very beautiful, among orchids they are considered the most unpretentious, their cultivation is possible even for inexperienced flower growers. But with gross mistakes in care, they begin to wither, and amateur beginners have a question about why the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid turn yellow and how to prevent it.

Yellowing can occur very quickly, so inspect plants at least every three to four days.

It is very important to correctly establish the cause of the painful condition of the orchid, otherwise you will not have time to save the exotic beauty.

One of the symptoms of the disease state of the orchid is considered to be. However, this is not always a sign of illness. Each plant begins to age over time. Often, yellowing of the lower leaves is just a sign of the natural aging of the orchid. Leaf renewal, although rare, is quite normal for this plant species. In some orchids, this happens once a year, in others - once in five years.

Natural non-dangerous causes

Naturally, the gradual loss of vitality in old leaves before they fall is manifested in the form of yellowing. If the orchid leaves turn yellow at the base, do not remove them. They dry up and separate on their own.

Stressful situations, such as transplantation, rearrangement, relocation, resulting in changes in conditions of detention, can also affect the condition and appearance plants.

There is another non-dangerous reason for yellowing leaves in phalaenopsis orchids. Perhaps the pot has become too small for the plant, and it needs a transplant. A new flowerpot is chosen 2 cm wider, but no more. Otherwise, the substrate may dry out worse, and excessive moisture leads to decay of the root system.

In the case when not only the leaf, but also the stem turns yellow in an orchid, this indicates trouble. By the way, novice flower growers sometimes confuse the stem and the peduncle and ask why the stem of the flower turns yellow from top to bottom. If the leaves and roots of the orchid are healthy, the death of the peduncle does not mean the death of the whole plant. The peduncle must be cut to green tissue, and after a certain time a new one will begin to grow from the hemp. If this does not happen, the peduncle dries out completely and is removed. New flowering can be expected in a few months.

Over watering

This is the most common cause of yellowing leaves in orchids. The leaves become limp and lethargic, acquiring a yellow-brown color. Beginners take care of the plant too diligently, flooding it. A waterlogged substrate prevents air from entering the roots, causing them to rot. In addition, a waterlogged environment contributes to the infection of orchids with bacterial and fungal diseases.

Inexperienced flower growers judge the need for watering by the dried upper pieces of bark on the substrate. But the bark can dry out in a day, while the soil inside the pot will be wet for another week. The following signs indicate yellowing of the leaves due to excessive watering:

• Most of the leaves and shoots begin to turn yellow, and not just the lower ones.
• The leaves become moist and soft to the touch.
• Black spots form on the leaves, and sometimes on the trunk.
• Spots also appear on the roots, they darken and are almost invisible through the walls of a transparent pot.
• The buds turn yellow, dry, then fall off.
• The orchid scrolls in the pot and is easily removed from it.

If the orchid leaves turn yellow due to excess moisture, remove the orchid from the pot and inspect the root system. Atremove the affected areas of the roots and transplant the plant into a new substrate.

Overdrying the plant

If the lower leaves of the orchid have turned yellow, although the plant looks healthy, there are no weeping dark spots on the leaves, and there are signs of decay on the roots, then the likely cause of the loss of the aesthetic appearance of the plant is a lack of moisture.

Perhaps the overdrying of the orchid is due to improper watering from a watering can. Drainage removes water very quickly, and the roots do not have time to absorb it.

The plant lacks nutrients oh, and new leaves grow, taking them away from the old ones.

Correcting the situation is easy. It is enough to switch to watering by immersing in water for half an hour. In a week or two, the plant will return to normal. It is very convenient to control the degree of moisture content of the substrate in transparent pots.

Irrigation with hard water

If you water the flowers with hard water, then salinization of the soil occurs over time, which can be the cause of the appearance of yellow leaves in the orchid. In this case, replacing the soil will help. Water the plant later. tap water, half mixed with distilled.

Excessive lighting

Phalaenopsis orchids prefer moderate light. They do not like the bright sun and can grow on a nightstand or table in the back of the room.

Direct sunlight adversely affects the condition of the plant. The stem and leaves turn yellow, dark spots and rough roughness appear, and the sun-burned areas of the leaves dry out.

It is not necessary to remove them, the healthy part of the leaf is quite viable and will continue to perform the functions of plant nutrition. Rearrange the orchid in partial shade or shade it.

Wrong top dressing

For orchids, both an excess of fertilizers and their lack are dangerous. Under natural conditions, they grow on trees, holding onto cracks in the bark with their roots. Plant debris accumulates in these cracks.

They turn over time into compost, from which plants obtain nutrients. Inexperienced flower growers fall into two extremes. Some feed their wards a couple of times a year, believing that under natural conditions, plants are content with the same small amount of nutrients.

Others, in overprotection of their pets, fertilize them weekly. In both cases, the result will be the same - the orchids will turn yellow leaves.

What needs to be done if the phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow due to improper feeding:

• With an excess of fertilizer, the plants are urgently transplanted into a new substrate. If it is not possible to do this immediately, then the root system will have to be washed with running water. This must be done within 15 minutes under a slight pressure of water.
• With a nutrient deficiency, plants are fed with special fertilizers for orchids. The initial doses of fertilizers should be half the recommended.

Fertilize once every two weeks, gradually increase the portion of fertilizer, bringing it to normal after three months.

Pests and fungal diseases

Damage to plants by pests and diseases leads to yellowing of buds, stems, leaves and their premature fall. It can be:

If you follow all the subtleties of caring for a phalaenopsis orchid, it will not be difficult for you to grow a healthy and beautifully flowering plant.

Often our attention is attracted by the delightful phalaenopsis orchids with their bizarrely shaped flowers and varied colors. But when flowering has passed in the dormant period, only beautiful leaves remain. And even, it would seem, proper care there may be problems with their growth. This article will help you figure out why the orchid does not grow leaves and what needs to be done so that they quickly grow.

The leaves are very important for the normal development of the orchid. Being an epiphyte, it can feed not only through the root system, but also with the help of leaf blades. And even when there are problems with the roots, the plant can be reanimated through the leaves. Therefore, it is very important to understand the reasons for stopping their growth.

Air temperature

An orchid pleases its admirer only under comfortable conditions of its maintenance. The air temperature of the room where the plant is located should be about 21-26 degrees. In summer, it is better to move phalaenopsis from the windowsill deep into the room with diffused lighting away from direct sunlight. This will help avoid leaf scorch, which will appear as discolored spots with a brown edge and cause subsequent drying.

In winter, a slight decrease in temperature to 16-20 degrees is favorable for an orchid, but no less. But it is also necessary to ensure that the flower located on the windowsill is not subjected to a temperature difference between day and night of more than 5-6 degrees, since a significant temperature difference can lead to its death. Small temperature jumps do not harm the plant, but contribute to the laying of flower buds.

Watering

Improper watering may be one of the reasons why an orchid has problems with leaf growth. During the heating period, when the air in the room is very dry, the plant quickly loses moisture. In this case, it is recommended to water at least twice a week, and if necessary, irrigate or spray every other day. It is good to use a humidifier for residential areas.

For a comfortable existence, plants of this species need balanced watering. With an excess of moisture, the roots rot, which contributes to the death of the flower, and an insufficient amount of water leads to drying. Therefore, you should focus on the color of the roots and the condition of the leaves. Yellowing, softness and wateriness of the lower leaves indicates an increased moisture content of the substrate, which led to rotting of the root system.

But it is also important to properly water at home. Use only soft or medium hard water room temperature. It is good to combine watering methods. When watering from a watering can, water is poured until it begins to flow through the drainage holes. Moisture should not drain into the center of the socket, as if it gets inside, there is a risk of decay. Excess water drains from the tray. After a few minutes, the flower is watered again, and again excess moisture is removed.

The method of watering from the shower creates conditions that are closer to the natural habitat of the phalaenopsis.

The ingress of warm water onto the substrate in small streams contributes to its uniform wetting. After a shower, the flower must be dried and thoroughly blotted with all the moisture. For orchids growing in baskets with tree bark, the method of immersion in water is useful. Only a perforated pot is immersed in a special bowl with warm water for 40-80 minutes, the leaves should not be in the water.

Lighting

Lack of lighting can have a detrimental effect on the condition of orchid leaves. The light period for this species should be 12-14 hours, in winter it is necessary to provide illumination with a special phytolamp for plants or a fluorescent daylight lamp.

When growing an orchid on a south window during a period of pronounced solar activity, the plant is shaded with a special mesh, and when the flower is located on the north side, additional lighting is used. Finding phalaenopsis in the depths of the room has a beneficial effect on its condition, provided there is 12-14 hours of daylight. To avoid the one-sidedness of the plant, it is necessary to periodically turn it with the other side to the light.

Nutrition

One of the reasons why new leaves do not grow may be due to insufficient nutrition with potassium and phosphorus compounds. This is manifested in the appearance of yellowish and brown spots on the leaves. To maintain the plant, it is worth foliar feeding.

The nutrient solution is prepared according to the instructions on the package, but in a weaker concentration than with root dressing. Then a uniform spraying of each leaf of phalaenopsis is carried out. With this method, the solution does not burn or damage the roots, and nutrients are better absorbed through the leaves. But it should be remembered that an excessive amount of fertilizer causes serious harm.

Video “Mistakes in caring for orchids”

ABOUT real experience care for orchids with errors and the secrets of "resuscitation" of flowers, see this video.

Achieving growth in one month

If you have figured out which of the reasons does not allow orchid leaves to develop and grow, we begin to achieve their growth in one month.

Proper pruning and comfortable environment

Phalaenopsis orchids usually have two blooms throughout the year (in spring and autumn). Too young a plant should not be allowed to flower 2 times a year, especially if the repeat falls in the spring-summer season. As a rule, phalaenopsis at this time has a short peduncle with crowded flowers, and if it is not removed in a timely manner, young plant then the growth of new leaves will slow down for a long period.

After the orchid blooms, the peduncle is cut off to a dormant point, the yellowed part is removed. Then it is plentifully watered with water and transplanted into a larger pot. Filling the new volume will contribute to the growth more leaves.

If the plant had artificial stimulation of flowering or staining was carried out (usually in blue phalaenopsis), as well as after an illness, it takes a long time to restore vitality. Therefore, during this period, the plant freezes and leaf growth stops.

We create a comfortable environment for our pet by correcting mistakes:

• With uncomfortable temperature conditions- pay attention to the location of the plant (window in the south or north), the seasonal period (temperature differences between day and night are not more than 5-6 ° C) and eliminate the shortcomings of the conditions of detention.
• If the irrigation regime is incorrect, inspect the root system and leaves. If there is a lack of moisture, saturate with water using a watering can, shower and immersion in liquid. But remember that too much water can be harmful.

• In the absence of sufficient lighting - provide additional illumination due to special lamps (phytolamps and fluorescent), avoid direct sunlight on the plants.
• With a lack of nutrients - carry out abundant foliar feeding. They should be periodically and intermittently, but with a sense of proportion.

Care and feeding

Phalaenopsis is recommended to be transplanted once every two years, as in a fresh substrate it receives the oxygen necessary for growth and development. Over time, the substrate becomes denser, so the air permeability deteriorates and the metabolism of the plant is disturbed, which can lead to wilting of the leaves and lack of flowering.

When planting an orchid, it is important to pay attention to the preparation of the substrate. His main integral part is a pine bark with good air permeability and moisture absorption. Pine bark is crushed to a size of 1-2 cm, then sphagnum peat is added and charcoal. Gently, without damaging the root system, the orchid is transplanted into a new substrate, and then watered abundantly. In these new favorable conditions, it grows better and prepares for a new flowering period.

The development of the root system and leaves of the orchid is favorably affected by timely feeding and fertilization. The bark of coniferous trees is used as the basis of the substrate for growing this type of flower, therefore it is recommended to fertilize with substances with a high nitrogen content. Potassium is involved in all metabolic processes of the flower. With its deficiency, the leaves turn yellow. It must be remembered that during the period of enhanced flowering, the plant needs top dressing with a high content of phosphorus, which regulates the processes of cell division, bud formation and seed formation.