Do-it-yourself drywall slopes: three main installation methods. Plasterboard slopes: the pros and cons of structures Finishing the front door slopes with plasterboard

When the do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes are completed, the owner of the house has a reason to be proud. After all, such a finish is not only a decoration of windows and the whole room as a whole, it also has a number of advantages. For example, it differs in noise and heat insulation characteristics. That only adds to the attractiveness of the home. This is especially appreciated when it comes to the improvement of your home. After all, there is the task of saving heat in winter period is top priority.

With enthusiasm and prepared materials, drywall slopes can be mounted independently. It is only necessary to take into account the recommendations proposed here, and strictly follow them in the course of construction works. Drywall window slopes are an alternative to plastic ones. You can install them in one of several ways. It can be either a frame version or an adhesive one. So, plasterboard slopes have been chosen: how to make them and properly finish them is described below.

What is this article about

Choosing the right material and tools

First of all, they stock up on the necessary type of drywall sheets. There is no unanimous opinion of experts on this issue. Someone insists on making slopes from moisture-resistant sheets. Others are not adherents of this approach and believe that, according to the rules of construction work, it is quite possible to get by conventional stoves GKL, from which wall cladding is made.

To make slopes with your own hands from drywall, you should worry about having a whole set of tools and consumables in advance. Only in this way the process will go faster and more confidently. To do this, prepare the following:

construction knife;
screwdriver with a set of drills;
drywall grater;
clean cloth;
bit for screwing in self-tapping screws;
water tank;
construction mixer;
glue for plasterboard;
self-tapping screws;
level;
frame profile;
primer;
acrylic composition for painting;
material for waterproofing and insulation (mineral wool, for example);
spatula for putty compositions.

After everything you need has been prepared, finishing the slopes with drywall begins with the very first step - preparing the base. But this is only the beginning. What work remains to be done, the instruction will tell, step by step describing the entire process of finishing the internal window surfaces.

Foundation preparation stage

You cannot skip any of the steps. After all, if the technology of arrangement is violated, do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes performed later can reveal a number of irreversible defects that will nullify all the work.

Competent installation of slopes made of drywall or plastic should be carried out on a prepared basis.

Sequence of work:

From the surfaces of the window opening, using a knife, drops of mounting foam formed during the sealing of the frame are removed. Following this, the surfaces of the opening are primed with a special antibacterial composition that creates a protective layer against the development of mold.
Mounting foam is laid with a cement composition, induced in a ratio of 1 to 4, where 1 is cement, 4 is water. The imposition of the cement composition provides masking of the through gaps that are present in the layer of mounting foam.
Great attention is paid to waterproofing and insulation. Since gypsum that is not protected by waterproofing can collapse very quickly under the influence of condensate.
To make even surfaces, a sloping corner is screwed to the window frame using self-tapping screws. The smaller of its sides is placed with an orientation towards the window. Corners are attached around the entire perimeter of the window, on which it is planned to place the slopes with their own hands from drywall.

Adhesive technology for sealing openings

When choosing the option with glue, it is assumed that the window has old slopes. First, fragments of the preserved finishes are removed from them - paints, plasters, whitewashing, and also wiped from dust. Cracks are sealed with tile adhesive or plaster mixture. After that, the surfaces are primed and wait for them to dry completely.

Sufficiently even old slopes are trimmed with new ones, gluing drywall blanks with tile adhesive for internal use. Balls are rolled from the glue mixture. Their diameter is determined according to the gap between the old slope and the workpiece. The balls are laid out, making indents of 10–30 cm. A more frequent step is excluded due to the difficulty of further tapping the blanks. The space between the balls makes it possible to perform accurate tapping of workpieces. That allows you to quickly grab and dry the glue.

Glue in finished form quickly hardens. For this reason, they do not keep it for a long time, they try to use it up for half an hour. Therefore, all drywall blanks are prepared in advance - before the glue is mixed. After the appearance of signs of solidification of the glue, they no longer try to renew it by adding water and stirring. In this case, prepare the solution in a new way.

If there are large irregularities on the old slope (over 3 cm), the blanks are not glued to the balls. The consumption of glue will be incomparably large, it will not be possible to achieve the desired degree of strength. In areas with significant irregularities, they act differently - they increase the thickness by means of plasterboard fragments. In this way, it is possible to achieve a layer thickness of 20 cm. In this situation, the installation of drywall slopes is carried out after one hour after building up uneven areas.

After arranging the blanks from the GKL, they are tapped. In order not to spoil the blanks, tapping with a rubber or wooden hammer is carried out on the attached bar. At the same time, verticality and horizontality are controlled by a plumb line or level.

A vertically installed workpiece is reinforced with spacers, in which one of the edges abuts against the slope, and the other against the window sill. Take a break for an hour to solidify the glue. When the slopes of the drywall are already glued completely, they notice several days for the final solidification of the adhesive layer. After that, the gap between the wall and the slope is foamed. Up to this point, through the free gap, air flows to the adhesive layer. Why the latter adheres surfaces better and faster.

Frame technology for performing slopes

When installing plastic windows attract metal profiles, with the help of which they perform the installation of slopes from drywall. A variety of such profiles is chosen at the stage of ordering windows.

When setting the window, the profile is placed in special openings on the frame from above and from the sides.

If it is not possible to order and supply a specialized profile, they use a standard profile for mounting GKL.

After waiting for the complete hardening of the mounting foam on the windows and window sills, they are taken for the device of the frame.

By means of self-tapping screws for metal, the profile is screwed, the self-tapping screws are placed at the joints of the GKL blank and the frame.

When plasterboarding wall surfaces adjacent to the window, guide profiles are installed to the latter. Gyprock slopes will be attached to them.

Since the slope joins with window frame at a certain angle, with the magnitude of the latter determined in advance. In this case, the guide profiles are shifted a small distance on the wall from the window.

Slope finishing stage

Subsequent finishing allows you to give a more aesthetic appearance to the finished slopes. This is done, armed with putty and paint.

First of all, the outer corners of the slopes are processed, covering them with perforated corners. Their material is profiled metal having a thickness of 1 mm. Perforated corners are glued to the corner joints of window openings with plasterboard adhesive.

Application adhesive composition on the corners, they are made so that it covers the entire surface with a uniform layer and does not form voids. Otherwise, the perforated metal will warp, which will have a bad effect on the external decor.

The corner is pressed down to the stop so that it comes into close contact with the mixture or putty. And the mixture that has come out of the holes is carefully removed with a spatula. In order to ensure evenness on surfaces, they resort to using the builder's level. Upon completion of the installation process, the profiled corners are taken for their careful sealing. Particular attention when puttying is given to areas that capture the window frame and plasterboard panels. After a two-layer application of the putty composition, the coating is checked for evenness, the cavities and bumps found are leveled.

If serious flaws are found on the surface, then fine-grained sandpaper or grinder. They try not to be too zealous so as not to spoil the putty layer (putty is quite whimsical).

After the puttied surface has dried, it is primed. The primer allows you to repair micro-scratches and other minor damage.

The final stage is painting performed on top of the ground. Can be painted with acrylic or water-based paint. Coloring allows you to additionally hide some material defects in the form of mechanical damage and scratches.

Knowing in what sequence the main stages of work are performed when arranging window slopes from GKL blanks, it will be much easier to do the work yourself. And, if something is forgotten, there is always the opportunity to return to the study of this instruction.

The influence of European standards on the life of the population of the post-Soviet space has recently become increasingly felt in the construction industry. Real estate owners are trying to transform their property. For this, technologies and materials imported from the West are used. It has become a common occurrence. But this process is accompanied by a violation of the integrity of the design of window openings and requires the restoration of slopes. In an article with detailed photos presented step-by-step instruction how to make plasterboard slopes on windows with your own hands.

Preparatory activities

As for drywall, it is better to immediately prime the entire wrong side of the sheet. This will not let us then be distracted by the processing of each individual detail. Moreover, it takes time for the primer to dry.

Measures to reduce the size of the window opening with a large width of the foamed space

Often measurements of window openings are performed by non-professionals. Because of this, the width of the foamed space after installation plastic window can reach 10 cm.

In accordance with the recommendations of the technology in question, the drywall slope boundary should overlap the edges of the frame, leaving the foam out of sight. Therefore, the distance between the drywall and the base surface can be quite large. This will require the application of a thick layer of mortar, which will make it difficult to get the drywall pieces in the correct position.

How to close the extra space between drywall and foam?

To solve this problem, in the process of preparing the window opening, you can include the fastening of a kind of lining from drywall strips. They will reduce (depending on the need) the width or height of the opening. To do this, from the part of the drywall sheet that will not be used for the manufacture of the main parts, or remained after the installation of the plasterboard ceiling, strips about 5 cm wide are cut with a construction knife.

A gypsum adhesive mixture is kneaded with a mixer or a drill with a special nozzle. As a result, it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

Application of the adhesive mixture

The layer of adhesive should be sufficient to achieve the desired result after the installation of these strips. The goal is to raise the level of the base surface. To make it easier to work, the mixture can be applied not only to the glued drywall, but also to the wall of the opening.

In this way, a higher level of the base surface can be achieved. After applying the putty, the part is installed in the prepared place.

As can be seen in the previous photo, the adhesive mixture is not applied in a continuous layer on the concrete base, but only in the form of two strips along the edges. We do not need the plasterboard slopes inside to be monolithic (although you can add a couple of “bloopers” in the central part).

The main thing is to create a support for the workpiece to be installed so that its edges do not hang in the air. This approach provides significant savings in the adhesive mixture. In the end, the window opening will look like the one shown in the photo below.

If the layer of foam resulting from installing the window is no more than 2-3 cm, then the entire lining procedure described above may not be needed. In this case, you can immediately proceed directly to the installation of drywall slopes.

Installation of plasterboard elements of window slopes

First of all, the top part is installed. To do this, it must be prepared in advance by cutting off from a whole sheet of drywall. But first, make the necessary measurements so that the gypsum board is sufficient in length and width.

The established dimensions are transferred to the surface of the sheet, and, focusing on them, are marked with a ruler and a cut line pencil.

With a construction knife, a drywall element for the upper slope is cut along the marked lines.

Starting to install the cut blank, you should prepare everything necessary tools and materials. To complete the task, you will need:

level-bar, the length of which is comparable to the size of the installed panel;
spatula for applying the mixture to the surfaces to be joined;
cut-to-size plasterboard slab;
ready-made adhesive composition, mixed in the manner described above.

When everything is prepared, proceed to the application of the adhesive mixture. It is better to place it around the perimeter, adding a few "blunders" in the central part. To simplify the workflow, it makes sense to apply part of the mixture to the base surface closer to the frame. And the second part is on the edge of the drywall slab, on that side of it, which will be removed from the window.

The next step is to set the plate in the desired position. Focus on the lines drawn during the preparatory activities.

How to achieve horizontal top slope?

To achieve a strict horizontal position of the upper slope of drywall, it is necessary during installation to check its location using a level in two directions.

If any place needs to be brought closer to the wall of the opening, then this can be done with light blows on the drywall. But pulling the plate in the opposite direction is not worth it. The mixture does not have the properties of rubber and will not return to its previous state. Therefore, it is better to apply a layer of the mixture with a margin, and the excess substance will spontaneously distribute between the surfaces to be joined, partially filling the voids.

Some craftsmen for the top slope of drywall, come up with props or use dowels to fix the slab in position. In most cases, this is not necessary. Surface tension forces can easily hold drywall, preventing it from changing its spatial arrangement.

Installation of side slopes

As for the drywall side slopes, their installation can begin after the adhesive mixture that holds the top plate has solidified. This procedure follows the same procedure as described above for the top bar:

a part is cut out of drywall;
the glue mixture is mixed;
the finished composition is applied to the surfaces to be joined;
drywall part is installed in the place intended for it;
the position of the plate is adjusted along the marking lines and using the level.

The only difference is that the level check is done vertically in one direction.

Covering cracks with glue

When all the drywall elements have taken their proper position and the adhesive mixture has hardened, it is necessary to cover all the cracks between the drywall and the walls of the opening with the same composition.

After that, you can proceed to the last stage - puttying drywall.

Finishing work

In accordance with the rules for installing drywall slopes, for, it is important that the corners are perfectly even. Therefore, a perforated corner is installed on them. It will strengthen them, protecting them from possible mechanical damage. The corner must be measured to size and cut with metal scissors.

Installing a perforated corner

Then you need to mix a little finishing putty (it is better to use Knauf multi-finish, which will provide more time to work with the mixture). Putty must first be applied to the slope angle.

After that, the corner is set.

Application to drywall surface

Next, use the same gypsum mixture. Then proceed to apply it to the surface of the drywall. It is important not to forget that this surface must be primed in advance. The leveling of the slope surface is carried out in two stages.

The first stage is applying the mixture in sufficient quantity with a spatula. It must be applied perpendicular to the drywall element.

The second stage is the tightening of the putty with a wide spatula along the slope.

Preparation of slopes for painting

If the slopes will be painted, it is better to apply putty in two layers. With a drying period in between. After the surface of the drywall window slopes takes on an aesthetic appearance and dries sufficiently, it remains only to sand it. This is done using a special abrasive mesh. After sanding, remove the sags. Then comes the painting.

As can be seen from this story, it is not difficult to make slopes from drywall with your own hands. It is important to carefully measure everything and follow the technological order. This should be observed both during the preparatory work, and during the installation and finishing of the main parts. Do not forget to prime hard surfaces before applying mixtures. And also, do not knead a lot of glue in order to have time to produce it before it hardens.

Watch a tutorial video on how to make drywall slopes with your own hands:

Good luck with your repair!

The slopes are internal walls window opening. In most cases, these surfaces are equipped with a slight slope towards the room. When replacing double-glazed windows, the slopes are usually damaged. It is far from convenient to restore destroyed surfaces with plaster in all situations, therefore, more and more often, owners opt for plasterboard slopes. This material avoids all the difficulties and inconveniences typical for plastering.

The arrangement of slopes using drywall can be carried out using glue and frame methods. Study the basic information about the work ahead, familiarize yourself with the features of both methods, choose the option that is convenient for you and get started.

What do you need to work?

First of all, you need to prepare drywall sheets suitable for such work. The best option is a moisture-resistant material with a thickness of 12.5 mm.

Thickness	Size	Square	Weight
12.5mm	1200x2500 mm	3 sq.m	28.9 kg
12.5mm	1200x2700 mm	3.24 sq.m	31.2 kg
12.5mm	1200x3000 mm	3.6 sq.m	34.7 kg

If you choose the method of attaching drywall to the frame, buy the appropriate UD and CD profiles. Fix the profiles using screws and dowels. In the case of using the pasting method, buy a special glue for drywall. For 1 m 2 of drywall, an average of about 5 kg of adhesive is used. specific meaning is determined individually in accordance with the brand of binder used and the condition of the surface to be finished.

Additionally, you will need a sealing tape.

The set of tools is standard. Prepare the following fixtures:

grinder. Needed for cutting a metal profile. In the absence of a grinder, you can get by with scissors for cutting metal;
perforator;
knife for cutting drywall sheets;
metal square;
measuring tape;
building level.

Preparatory activities

Take all your measurements first. In the process of preparing sheets of material for the design of slopes, leave slight allowances.

It is extremely difficult to provide an absolutely even base at the finishing installation points, therefore it is better to take the material with a margin and cut off the excess in the future, rather than find that part of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire surface of the slope.

Regardless of the chosen method of finishing the slopes with drywall, perform preliminary training decorated surface. Be sure to remove the existing layer of plaster coating.

In the case of applying the gluing method, the surface must be carefully leveled. To do this, you can use an ordinary .

When using the wireframe method, pre-alignment can be omitted in most cases. It is enough just to get rid of the crumbling sections of the plaster coating.

Treat the base with an antifungal agent.

After completing all the preliminary measures, you can proceed directly to the fastening of drywall sheets according to the chosen method.

Frame method of finishing slopes

When using this finishing method, work should begin with the arrangement of vertical decorative elements.

First step

Fasten the guides along the edges of the window opening perpendicular to the floor. At this point, use the UD profile. Fix with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-50 cm.

If the guide is fastened to the frame of a plastic window, be sure to lay a sealing tape between the profile and the surface of the double-glazed window. It will prevent the profile from freezing in cold weather.

Second step

Install the CD guides perpendicular to the UD profiles.

Third step

Sew up the frame with sheets of drywall.

Fourth step

Proceed to finish the top of the opening. The work is done in the same way.

If the window slope has a shallow depth, it is best to mount the guide profile on three sides - on the finished trim elements and on the frame of the double-glazed window.

After completion of work between the finishing sheet and outer part jumper will remain approximately a centimeter gap. Fill it with special glue for working with drywall.

Finish the slopes at your discretion. Usually they are puttied or painted.

Adhesive method of finishing slopes

The adhesive method of finishing slopes with drywall is more difficult to implement compared to the previously considered method. For the qualitative performance of such work, you need to have some skills to accurately ensure the slope of the surfaces.

Finishing should begin with fixing the upper slope. In this case, he will take on the functions of a "guide" for the correct installation of the side elements.

Details according to the dimensions of each side of the slope and glue them to a previously leveled and dried surface.

In most situations, the adhesive should be applied in a continuous layer. If the surface of the substrate is flat and you need to reduce the drying time of the adhesive, apply the adhesive in wide stripes. Level the trim sheets. While the glue dries, install pre-prepared props. The specific drying time of the mixture is indicated on the package. Be sure to clarify this point in a separate order.

Finishing work

Drywall slopes need to be given a more attractive and aesthetic appearance.

First of all, smooth out any bulges that appear at the points of laying the adhesive mixture with a special grater for working with drywall. Level the recesses with putty.

Cover the leveled and dried surface with a primer. Apply a double coat of primer if necessary.

If desired, the slopes can be painted. Coloring compositions are best applied with a fly brush or a special roller that can give the surface a beautiful rough structure.

The best paint option for finishing drywall is water-based formulations. The required number of layers of paint to achieve the desired shade, select individually.

On this work with slopes can be completed. Additionally, you only need to trim and plaster the space under the windowsill.

Having qualitatively designed window slopes with drywall, you will get an excellent external characteristics decorative trim and save time and budget. The finished finish will perfectly fit into any interior and will serve for many years without losing its original quality.

Composition of Ceresit CT 42:	water dispersion of acrylic copolymer with mineral fillers and pigments
Density:	OK. 1.47 kg/dm3
Application temperature:	from +5 to +35°C
impact resistance rainfall:	after 3 hours
Water absorption dyed surfaces:	no more than 0.5 kg/m2 h0.5
Abrasion resistance:	at least 5000 cycles
Ready to apply coatings:	in ~6 months
Consumption Ceresit CT 42:	0.2 – 0.5 l/m2 (depending on the nature and color of the substrate)

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Video - Do-it-yourself drywall slopes

Finishing slopes with drywall is quite easy to do with your own hands. The method refers to the most popular type of design for the entrance, interior doors, as well as for the window.

Installation is simple, and after installing drywall, the openings are beautiful, even and strong. There are other design methods, but the use of GKL is easier and cheaper, especially if the seam is on the window. doorway big.

Drywall properties

If you are going to make window slopes from drywall with your own hands, you need to learn about the advantages and properties of the material. The first thing to notice is the ability to do the work with your own hands, without the help of craftsmen. The final result will please, and meet all the requirements of the repair.

After cladding, the material can be sheathed, the opening can be decorated with tiles and other finishing materials, for example, using staining or wallpapering. The main properties of drywall when making slopes are presented in the table:

Properties:	Description:
Decent level of sound insulation and thermal insulation:	If you need a window opening and a window sill, you can not only sew up drywall, but additionally lay a layer insulating materials to enhance the design and insulation qualities.
A light weight:	Due to the small mass of drywall for installation, it is not necessary to use special technologies; installation is carried out on a metal profile from which a metal frame is created or on adhesive mixtures.
Ideal plane:	Drywall sheets are perfectly even, due to which the slopes on the windows and doors will be even, which greatly facilitates the process of finishing with putty, and also speeds up the creation of slopes.
Breathability:	The slope, due to its property, does not allow deforming, even if there are strong temperature changes or there is high humidity in the rooms.
Environmental friendliness:	Although drywall sheets may be with additives, the material is environmentally friendly and slopes can be made in children's rooms. Drywall does not emit toxic substances.
Minimum waste:	During the installation work, there is almost no waste, dust and other debris from drywall material.

For drywall window slopes, it is necessary to choose the right sheets that will have certain types of additives and other additives:

For the design of slopes in a normal environment, in a residential building or apartment, standard drywall is used, which can withstand humidity up to 70%.
When using drywall on the side of the street or in the bathroom and other wet places, a moisture-resistant type of drywall is used, the material additionally includes antifungal and hydrophobic impurities.
To reduce the possibility of fire, window and door slopes are made of fire-resistant material, which already contains impurities. mineral wool and fiberglass. This type Drywall sheets are rarely used, but they are very durable on their own.

Important! Drywall is a breathable material, due to which it can absorb moisture and, if necessary, release it into the atmosphere without changing its shape.

Finishing the window slope with drywall (video)

Advantages of plasterboard cladding

The material has been used for slopes of windows and doors for a long time. This is not surprising, because it has a number of advantages:

Environmental friendliness and safety for human health.
Low material cost.
Ease of installation.
Minimal care for already finished slopes.
Stylish look.
The ability to make an arched opening and other complex shapes.
Long term use of drywall slopes.
Possibility to additionally insulate windows or doors.
Versatility: not only used for windows and doors, it is used to level the ceiling, walls.

Important! Although drywall material has a number of advantages, there is also a drawback, the sheets are easily damaged mechanically, even a material protected from water can be destroyed due to prolonged contact with it.

Finishing preparation

Before making slopes from drywall, you will need to prepare a window or door. The plasterboard door slope and the window slope, in terms of preparation, are almost the same, but the following is taken into account for doors:

presence of communications. For example, wires for the Internet, electricity or a call. The laying is done before the start of the installation of the doorway.
Possibility to install a second entrance door. The need arises if the insulation of the first door is not carried out, and the sound insulation of the doors does not matter.

The opening preparation is as follows:

When the old window or door is dismantled, a new product is installed, the foam remains, its remnants are cut off.
A hammer or other device removes plaster and other protruding parts on the window, doors. Often under the plaster there may be a metal pin and other elements, they are cut off.
The gap, pit and other defects of the opening must be puttied.
The joints that appear between the window frame or interior doors must be coated with sealant.
After the putty and other mixtures have dried, a primer is applied in two layers along the perimeter of the opening.

At the end of the preparatory work, the opening is completely cleaned of dirt. Everything is swept and wiped. In order not to damage the window or door frame, it is sealed with masking tape and cardboard.

The frame design method is convenient and practical. True, the installation of the material is somewhat more complicated, because the p-profile must be fixed with self-tapping screws, which is more difficult and takes longer. Fixation is carried out reliably, everything is screwed flush with drywall, so that the frame is strong. Step by step, you can independently make the crate of the opening as follows:

Wooden planks or a metal profile are used for the frame.
The material is cut to size. It is necessary to install rails around the entire perimeter of the slope, on the inner and outer corner. For reliability, cross bars are attached.
At will, a heater is placed in the frame, in the form of mineral wool, it is installed in ready-made cells.
Now the plasterboard sheets cut to size are fixed. Trimming is carried out only when the frame is finished.
At the end, sheathing is carried out with plasterboard sheets directly to the profile or rails.

The advantage of this method is the need for facing the slope and adjacent walls. The disadvantage of the method is to reduce the space in the opening, especially when it comes to the door.

Adhesive method of finishing slopes

There is an option to design a slope using an adhesive solution or putty. Instructions on how to glue drywall are presented below:

Put putty or glue on the cut parts. When using putty, it is better to use a finishing composition. The material is applied around the perimeter and a little in the middle.
Prepared slopes are wetted with water and drywall can be glued to the slope. Initially, the top element is installed, and then the side parts.
When the wall and drywall are connected, you can press down on the sheet and shake it a little to the sides so that the glue spreads and the drywall itself sticks.
If the sheet is fixed tightly and does not move, then everything is left until it solidifies completely. On the advice of the masters, it is better to wait about a day or even two. In case of unreliable fixation of drywall, it is recommended to support it with planks at the edges and in the middle. When the mixture dries, the strips are removed.

The disadvantages of the method are similar to the frame technology, but the advantages are obvious: the work is done faster, not so expensive, and as the reviews show, the installed slope lasts 10 years, nothing lags behind the walls. Outside, the glue is immediately removed if it has crawled out, until it hardens.

Foam mounting

You can close the slope by fixing the drywall with mounting foam. The embedding is very simple, but it is used if there are few defects on the slopes and pits small size, up to 3 cm. For large sizes, defects must be sealed with foam before installation, the correct method for sealing potholes is using cement mortar or starting type of plaster. You need to sew like this:

Dismantle the old coating, the remains of plaster and foam. Next, large potholes are filled.
When the holes dry up polyurethane foam applied to drywall from the back of the material. The foam layer is not more than 1 cm. The material is applied in the form of a snake.
Plasterboard material is placed on a slope and pressed against it. Pressing drywall must be strong so that the foam grabs the slope.
After that, the drywall comes off, and on the slope and finishing material foam remains. After 10 minutes, the foam will increase in size.
Drywall is again mounted in a slope and pressed against the wall. If necessary, the material is fixed with spacers and left for up to a day without continuing work.
The next step is to seal the drywall seams on the slopes with plaster.

The disadvantages of this design of the slopes of doors and windows are quite large. The biggest disadvantage is that the surface will first need to be leveled, otherwise the drywall sheet will not. Drywall on slopes can bend during installation. There are voids on the door / window slope, due to which the fixation is not very reliable. But this is the fastest method for finishing slopes with drywall. When a window or doorway is sewn up with drywall, according to any method described, the opening is finished various materials. But before you finish the slopes, you need to do the following:

The slope is puttyed with a thin layer.
On the outside of the opening, protection is placed and a corner is formed using a plastic perforated corner, which is closed with putty.
Another layer of putty is laid down to finally level the surface.
Finishing material is selected.

Advice! Coloring is used for decoration, you can paint it in any color, for example, in the color of a door or window, wallpaper in a room, use a standard white paint. Make a choice, photos on the Internet will help, the bay window in the apartment looks very nice in different colors.

The painting is not durable, therefore, for the slopes of the part, a panel type of material is used, for example, plastic for slopes, instead of drywall, PVC panels and other materials, this good material, made in accordance with GOST, is distinguished by its durability. The video shows step by step work with drywall, you can use the method for doors and windows:

Photo gallery of finished works

For slopes of plastic windows, sandwich panels are usually used, for entrance and interior doors there is a wider choice of materials. Drywall slopes are applicable for both windows and doors. Unlike plastic and MDF, drywall is more maintainable and cheaper. During the overhaul process, trimmings of this material remain after facing other design elements - they can be used for slopes. Moreover, it is not at all necessary that all slopes should be assembled from whole piece. As a result, we get the finishing of windows and doors of a sufficiently high quality.

Installation

Consider profileless installation. Work on windows should be carried out after installing the window sill. Of course, this can be done without a window sill, but then the latter will be more difficult to install.

In the foam seam of the window | door, a recess is cut 1-1.5 cm into the thickness of the drywall. The sheet should fit tightly into this groove. Closer to the inner edge of the wall, beacon screws are screwed in with a distance of 30-50 cm from each other, the more often the better. The slope will rest on the screws, they should be set so that the sheet is not perpendicular to the window, but is turned to "dawn". The amount of turn is arbitrary, as you like, usually 5-7 mm for thin panel walls ( brickwork in a monolith) and 1.5-2 cm for thick brick.

Unfortunately, a rare door or window is perfectly level in all planes. Therefore, it is very likely that by making, for example, a 5 mm turn on the slope from below, a 1 cm turn from above is automatically obtained. The problem is solved by finding the optimal position, for example, from below 0-1 mm, and from above 5 mm of turn. This also applies to the upper, horizontal slope.

Beacon screws should be taken so long that they are securely fixed in the dowel, which is inserted into the pre- drilled hole. If the wall material is aerated concrete or foam blocks, dowels suitable for these purposes should be selected.

The sheets should be cut a little wider than the thickness of the walls; after installation, the drywall is cut flush with the wall. On the windows you need to use moisture-resistant drywall, on the doors - depending on the operating conditions in a particular case. If the door separates a warm room from a cold one or a street, then moisture-resistant GKL or GVL should be used.

After the screws are accurately aligned, the plaster sheets are cut into right size, you can mount the slopes. Foam is carefully applied to the end of the wall (pre-primed the wall). You need to try not to overdo it with foam, so that when expanding from the inside to the slope there is minimal pressure. A strip of drywall is inserted into the foam seam of the window and rests on the exposed self-tapping screws. At the time of the foam hardening, the slope must be fixed, this can be done with the help of dowels and self-tapping screws with a wide cap. Approximately in the area of \u200b\u200bthe beacon self-tapping screw, a hole is carefully drilled right through the gypsum in the end of the wall and fastened with a cork with a self-tapping screw. Do not be zealous with temporary fastenings, 3-4 per slope. The fixed slope should be checked with a rule or level for a plane. If in some places the foam has squeezed out the plane, a temporary fastening is added.

On the slopes of interior doors, when using drywall, instead of foam, you can apply pads in places of beacon screws.

When erecting a slope of several pieces of drywall, you should try to join the seams with factory thinned edges. Then the seam can be puttied with sickle. In extreme cases, the thinned edges on the seam can be made independently.

When the doorway is much higher new door, then the most relevant will be the build-up of drywall from above along the profiles.

After the foam has hardened, temporary fixing screws are removed, the drywall protruding from the wall plane is cut flush.

Puttying

Here you can go in two ways: budget and fast or more complicated, better. The budget option is to cover the foam joint with putty (you must first remove the foam to a depth of 1-2 cm), cover the internal corners and self-tapping screws. All surfaces are ripped off once. For all operations suitable "fugen". If the slope is assembled from several pieces, the seams are puttied with sickle. This option is issued after painting the slopes and wallpapering outer patch corner.

A better option implies the same thing, with cutting and puttying reinforcing outer corner. After removing and grinding the surfaces, it is also recommended to stick a reinforcing bandage on the inner corners and glue it on all planes fiberglass. After drying, fiberglass is puttied several times with the same.

After the final grinding, the slopes must be primed, smudges of the primer must not be left, by any means drying of the drops must be avoided. It is best to apply the primer with a roller.

The final operation before painting is to go through all the joints of gypsum and windows / doors with acrylic sealant.

Painting

Painting slopes is a rather problematic action, especially when the surfaces are not very well puttied. Therefore, I strongly recommend that you pay due attention to the putty.

Slopes are painted with water-based paint. More suitable for painting matte paint. For quality painting with glossy paint, it is necessary to putty the surfaces with the highest quality and "eat the dog" on the painting of the slopes.

No types of brushes are appropriate here, because all the stripes will be visible. Roller only! The roller is suitable for a width of 15-20 cm from foam rubber or fleecy from polyamide, or another similar one. I prefer foam rubber, they are easy to paint over the inner corners by simply pressing the roller into the corner. Any smudges of paint should be avoided, any drops should be rolled out immediately. Usually, 3-5 coats of paint may be required for an excellent result.

Wallpaper on slopes instead of paint

Instead of painting door slopes can be wallpapered. Just as with painting, the slopes are puttied.

In general, finishing is not limited to paint and wallpaper, it all depends on the specific case and location. Tiles, decorative plaster on slopes are also acceptable materials in some cases.