Planting a garden blackberry. Garden blackberries: care at different times of the year, including the first year after planting. Watering, loosening and mulching

Blackberry garden - a very useful berry, from which you can cook many wonderful dishes. Along with raspberries, blackberries will look good as homemade preparations, as pie fillings or as a dessert decoration. In addition, garden blackberries boast stable and high yields, and with proper care and planting, they will bear fruit for more than 10 years in a row.

Planting dates for blackberries (spring, autumn or winter?)

Despite the fact that the benefits of blackberries are much greater than those of raspberries, gardeners for a long time denied themselves the pleasure of planting blackberry bushes on the site. And the reason for this circumstance was that the blackberry varieties that were on sale at that time were derived from the southern form of the plant. They could not take root in our region and simply died. But everything has changed dramatically since new varieties of blackberries began to appear, resistant to low air temperatures. Frosts down to -30 do not scare them at all. And therefore, the middle lane and the northern regions should grow only varieties of modern selection.

In the middle and southern region, it will be appropriate to plant blackberries in the fall. The abundance of moisture and a decrease in soil temperature to -4 have a positive effect on the root system of bushes. After the plant takes root, it will immediately begin to build up the vegetative mass. A few more benefits of autumn planting:

Reduced prices for planting material;
The plant has fresh roots;
The choice of varieties is much wider than in the spring.

If you plant blackberries in the spring, you can run into a lot of trouble. The fact is that warm weather will provoke the movement of juice and the growth of shoots, but the roots of the plant will not have time to build up mass. From this, the shrub may weaken, which will affect its further growth. Spring planting is best done in the northern region. In addition, choose blackberries with reduced frost resistance for this variety.

Important point:

If you decide to plant in the fall, then this must be done 21-31 days before the first frost;
In the spring, blackberries are planted before buds appear on the trees, at air temperatures up to +15 degrees Celsius.

If you want your blackberry shrub to bear fruit generously for many years and have no problems, go for planting material to a reliable, proven nursery. Annual seedlings with 2 stems with a diameter of 0.5 cm or more take root perfectly. Also, the presence of a formed bud on the roots is very important. The tap roots should also be about 10 cm in length.

The ideal place to plant a seedling (shade or sun?)

The blackberry loves the sun and is afraid of drafts, especially the north wind does not like it. If you plant seedlings in the shade, the plant will give very poor shoots, and the berries themselves will grow small and tasteless.

The best place to plant blackberry seedlings is near the fence. In this case, an indent should be made from the fence, at least 1 m. The bush itself should look south or southwest. The soil should be loamy (it should have a humus layer more than 25 cm thick), airy and well drained. The groundwater level is not higher than 1.5 meters. Please note that blackberries really do not like saline, swampy, rocky and sandy soil.

Prepare the site before planting:

Remove all weeds and waste;
Treat the soil from diseases and harmful insects (for prevention);
Dig up the area to 30-35 cm deep;
Apply mineral and organic fertilizer to the depleted soil.

Open field planting method

The planting hole and the substrate must be prepared 2-3 weeks before planting a young seedling in open ground. The planting pattern is 40/40/40 cm. If the plant is upright, then between the bushes they make an indent of 1 m, if the blackberry tends to creep, then 1.5 meters. The distance between the rows should be 2 meters.

Fertilizers are applied to all pits:

5 kg. compost or humus;
120 g of superphosphate;
40 g of potassium sulfate.

These ingredients should be mixed with the ground and filled with the resulting mixture of pits to 65% of their volume. The bush is planted in an upright position. The root neck is deepened by 1.5-2 cm. If the soil is light, sandy, then by 3 cm. After that, the remaining 35% of the pit is covered with a substrate, not reaching the ground level by 1-2 cm. This recess is necessary in order to water plants contributed to a better saturation of the roots with moisture.

After all the manipulations, the pits should be tamped and the plants should be watered (about 5-6 liters of water for each bush). Bushes planted in spring require stable watering for the first 45-50 days. Compacted circles under each seedling must be mulched with sawdust, peat or straw.

Blackberries are not afraid of drought, but are sensitive to frost. It gives a rich harvest, and in this regard, only grapes surpassed it in the garden plot. If you organize proper care for her, then for many years she will delight you with her useful fruits.

One of the golden rules for caring for blackberry bushes is pruning them.

In order for the bushes not to thicken beyond the norm, they must be cut, adhering to the following rules:

Remove inflorescences after planting in the first 12 months of plant growth to stimulate root development;
In the second year of planting a blackberry, its stems are shortened to 1.5-18 m. The event must be carried out with the arrival of spring, before the buds begin to bloom. Pruning is done above the kidneys;
After each winter, frostbitten segments of the stems of the plant should be cut back to live buds;
In June, it is necessary to thin out all the shrubs, removing young shoots. Leave about 6-8 strong stems for creeping varieties and 4-5 for upright varieties. The top of young shoots is shortened by 5-8 cm.

Bush blackberries have a two-year fruiting cycle. During the first year, the stem of the plant is in the stage of development and formation of fruit buds. The second year is the period of fruiting, while the formation of new buds often does not occur anymore. Therefore, those shoots that have already outlived their lives should be removed in order to allow new ones to form.

How to properly tie bushes

The creeping blackberry variety is tied to a trellis, which has 3-4 rows of wire, at a distance of 0.5 meters from each other. Young shoots of the first year of growth must be tied to the bottom row of wire in the form of a fan. And those who are already more than a year old are sent to the central part of the bush and tied to the upper wires. Before the start of frost, young shoots must be removed from the wire and shelter should be organized for them for the winter.

Upright blackberry varieties are tied to trellises at an angle in one direction. Young shoots that appear during the growing season should also be tied up, but in the opposite direction from those stems that bear fruit.

Tip: darken blackberry bushes at the time when the fruits ripen on them. The fact is that the scorching sun's rays can spoil the appearance and quality of the berries. Therefore, it would be advisable to stretch the darkening mesh along the rows with shrubs.

Pledge of a generous harvest - timely applied top dressing and fertilizers

Be sure to carry out the procedure for fertilizing blackberries with nitrogen fertilizers in the spring to activate the development of annual shoots. For this purpose, add ammonium nitrate (50 g each) under the bushes, to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Olin once every 4-5 years, the bushes of the plant need to be fed with other useful substances. This should be done when you have harvested the entire crop. Under each bush (per 1 m2 area) the following mixture is applied:

10 kg. humus;
100 g of superphosphate;
30 g of potassium sulfate.

In addition, remove all fallen leaves under the bushes and spray them with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid. It will prevent pests from attacking the plant.

Watering bushes

The roots of blackberries lie deep enough, and therefore it can do without watering for a long time, but still it must be watered during the ripening of the berries and on hot days. One healthy bush will need about 16-19 liters of water every 7 days during the fruiting period. On the rest of the days, be guided by the substrate - it should not be too dry. Do not forget to also loosen the ground under each bush (10 cm deep), pulling out all the weeds. This must be done in the autumn and in August-September.

Sheltering blackberries for winter sleep

All blackberry bushes must be covered for the winter before the first frosts come (down to -1 degrees). You need to do this according to this scheme:

All branches are bundled;
After that, they must be bent to the ground and secured with hooks. Do this before the first frost otherwise, then frozen stems may crack when bent;
Cover the blackberry branches to choose from: roofing material, hay, tops, sawdust, peat, humus or spruce branches. You can also use plastic wrap.

High-quality planting material, as well as competent and timely care for blackberry bushes will certainly bring you their tasty and healthy fruits, in the form of berries valuable for our health.

Blackberry - has long been our favorite garden berry shrub with such a pretty name belongs to the subgenus of the Rubus genus of the Rosaceae family. On the territory of Russia they are called differently, mentioning its two types: Gray blackberry (Rubus caesius) - often referred to by some as Ozhina (in Ukraine); and bushy blackberries (Rubus fruticosus) or Kumanika.

Both species of this berry shrub grow safely in countries with a warm and temperate climate: in Europe, Scandinavia and in the western part of the Arkhangelsk region.

With a winter shelter, Blackberry is able to successfully develop, taking into account its variety, throughout Russia. In pre-south regions, where prolonged severe frosts are rare, Blackberry winters safely even with small shelters.

The blackberry is able to grow in the natural environment without any human influence. In the Caucasus and in certain regions of the Middle East, these species, especially the blackberry bushy (kumanika), grow so extensively and luxuriantly that, in combination with other shrubs, it creates impenetrable thickets.

Blackberry subshrubs come in several varieties that ordinary gardeners like me didn't even know about. Here is a list of them: elmous, giant, bushy, ordinary, split, early, gray-gray, folded. In our area, it is divided into two types: small prickly and large non-prickly.

The latter, with proper care and abundant watering, gives a fabulous harvest of large up to 5 centimeters long, amazingly fragrant and sweet berries, which can be enjoyed fresh or stored for future use, freezing in the freezer, rubbing with sugar and storing in the refrigerator, you can cook compote and jam, prepare delicious syrups and even dry.

Many gardeners cultivate both thorny and non-thorny Blackberry varieties on their plot. The prickly Blackberry is usually bred to create a reliable green hedge around the site, but there is plenty of trouble with such a fence, because during the growing season its branches with a full “package” of the future rhizome, striving to continue their kind, stretch in all directions to root new bushes.

Given that you have to walk along such a fence, and you are “grabbed” by tenacious and sharp spikes that can scratch your skin to the point of blood and even tear your clothes, you have to cut such an aggressive plant periodically during the summer. The non-thorny Blackberry breeds just as actively, and also needs constant pruning, threatening unwanted rooting in your area.

Breeding Blackberries or not is a personal matter for gardeners, but everyone should know the prospect of not quite simple care for her, especially about the hedge, which can create a problem for passers-by if you cannot cut it at some point, even non-thorny varieties.

Features of growing blackberries

The blackberry is a semi-shrub, and the flexible, unsupported branches-stems are usually planted with sharp, inwardly bent thorns. The gray blackberry (Rubus caesius) has trifoliate leaves, and the lower ones have five leaves. Bushy blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) is characterized by a combination of 5 and 7 leaves.

At the very beginning of spring, the Blackberry actively throws out new shoots and revives last year's ones, but dead branches also appear, which must be cut along with other dried shoots, and then its violent flowering begins with white or pinkish rather large flowers, which insects and bees willingly visit. number.

From flowers in the form of clusters, a berry ovary is formed. Gradually, greens acquire a brownish color, then - brown-red, and by the time of full maturation - black-violet color. If the berry comes off easily, this shows that it is in full ripeness.

Blackberry fruits are gray in color, black with a bluish bloom, in some places they are called turquoise. The fruits of the bushy blackberry do not have a bluish bloom. The taste of ripe berries is sweet and sour with a delicate aroma, slightly resinous. The further south the blackberry grows, and even the more it receives hot summer lighting, the sweeter its fruits. Blackberry juice is dark red, resistant to heat treatment. For this reason, it is advisable to add blackberries to all fruit compotes for brightness.

Formation of bushes and pruning of blackberries

For a more comfortable relationship with this plant, plant thornless blackberry varieties such as Merton Thornless, Oreqon Thornless, late-ripening Loch Ness on your site. If you prefer the option: two in one, then the Waldo variety of weaving non-thorny blackberries will perfectly cope with this task: in July-August it will give a rich harvest and picturesquely braid a pergola or garden arch.

As a rule, blackberries are cultivated either on stakes or on a trellis - here everyone is an agronomist and foreman. I like the trellis support, because the bush develops compactly and it is very convenient to harvest, which does not ripen at the same time and needs to be done periodically. The formation of a bush on a trellis can be done in two ways.

In the first of them, the branches and shoots are divided in half and fastened to the trellis in a fan way. Over the summer, the bush, of course, will grow - new shoots will appear from its center - that's what they need to be put up vertically, gently gathered and tied with something loose and not rigid. After harvesting, fruiting branches should be cut to the ground. Untie a bunch of young shoots and fasten it on a trellis in the same fan way - it is they who will give a new crop next year.

The second method is considered less laborious and seems more acceptable to some. In the spring, last year's shoots are distributed and tied up on one side (left or right), growing new ones - on the other. As soon as the fruiting half is free from the harvest, it is cut to the ground, as in the first method. Next season, the remaining branches will bear fruit, and in place of the empty side, you will distribute new shoots.

Like its closest relative, the raspberry, the blackberry is very demanding on regular and sufficient watering, of course, taking into account normal drainage, natural or artificial. This is especially important during the ripening period of fruits, the quality of which is directly related to abundant watering, in which the berries will be complete in all respects: in shape and size, in color uniformity, in sugar content and aroma, and even in the number of fruits ripened in a bunch.

Blackberry responds very gratefully to timely top dressing with both organic and mineral fertilizers in an acceptable dosage.

By autumn it is advisable to mulch the place of its growth with a thick layer of hop pellets (dry fertilizer from brewing waste), stable manure or compost.

spring, starting from April, as a root top dressing in the near-stem circles, add at the rate of: 30 grams per square meter - potassium sulfate and only once every three years - superphosphate: 60 grams per square meter.

Blackberry pests

There are few of them, but the raspberry beetle (common raspberry) also attacks blackberries. Its attack can be seen by the browning of the berries at their base. It is necessary to fight with its larvae, for which, as soon as the bushes fade, spray them with fenitrothion or karbofos (according to instructions) and always in the evening, taking care of bees and other beneficial pollinating insects.

How to winterize blackberries

Blackberry bushes are quite frost-resistant, but prolonged winter frosts can be detrimental to her. Each variety has its own relationship with the cold - some can withstand temperatures from -7 to -12 degrees Celsius, but frost-resistant even survive -23 ° C.

In regions with severe winters, in the middle of autumn, all branches are removed from the support, gently tied with a bunch and lined along the bottom row of the trellis. Sufficient shelter for them will be a layer of snow. In the spring, untie the bunch of branches and distribute, tying, along the trellis.

An important thing about blackberries - many people know that by the end of summer there comes a period when the still beautiful-looking drupes of blackberries and blackberries become soft and tasteless. Scientists explain this by a very real situation: carrion and houseflies by this time, having multiplied strongly, begin to feast on ripe blackberries. They lick them, soaking them with their digestive juice, which spoils the appearance and taste of still attractive fruits.

Blackberry is one of the most useful berries, carrying great benefits for the human body. Indeed, in its composition a great many valuable components were found, which not only strengthen health, but also have a therapeutic effect. Fragrant berry is very popular in cooking, cosmetology, folk medicine. In this regard, it began to be actively grown in summer cottages. Moreover, today there are a huge number of varieties of medicinal shrubs, allowing you to make the right choice, taking into account climatic conditions and the region of residence.

Among the many perennial shrubs, blackberries differ in their growth pattern - some varieties have an upright stem, while others are creeping.

There are also mixed varieties that have intermediate forms. Blackberry fruits ripen on shoots that appear from the basal buds, and die off with the onset of frost. Regardless of the variety, garden blackberries are characterized by high yields and unpretentious care. But the size of the berry and its susceptibility to cold snaps fully depend on the variety of the shrub, which must be chosen in accordance with the place of cultivation, transportability, taste and frost resistance.

for the European part of Russia

Thanks to its unpretentiousness, garden blackberries take root well in most of the country. Summer residents of the European part grow both erect and climbing varieties. Among the most popular species it is worth noting:

Texas- a variety of medium productivity, with creeping shoots and high resistance to diseases and cold;
abundant- frost-resistant and high-yielding variety, with a late fruiting period;
Agawam- a shrub with erect stems and thorns, the berries on which ripen quite early and are distinguished by their special sweetness and large size.

for the Urals

The Ural climate is characterized by high rainfall in the west, and drier conditions towards the east. The entire territory of the Urals is distinguished by severe weather conditions of the continental climate. For this reason, early and mid-early varieties are suitable for growing berry crops in this area, including:

Ruben- compact, medium-sized shrub, which is resistant to cold and good adaptation;
Durrow- a variety of medium yield, frost-resistant, with excellent taste;
Polar- an ideal berry for transportation over long distances, it is distinguished by its large size and sweetness.

for Siberia

For the northern regions of Russia with their bitter frosts, it is necessary to choose the most winter-hardy varieties of garden blackberries, which are recommended to be covered in winter. The following types of culture have proven themselves well:

Thornfree- the variety is resistant to many diseases and pests, tolerates frosts down to -30, is distinguished by late fruiting and fairly large berries (about 6-7 g);
headrick- a high-yielding, winter-hardy variety that perfectly tolerates low temperatures under snow cover and is characterized by unpretentious care;
Evergreen characterized by good frost tolerance, lack of thorns, late fruiting and small berries that produce a bountiful harvest.

for the Far East

The eastern regions of the country are characterized by rainy summers and cold winters with little snow. When choosing a garden blackberry, this fact should be taken into account in order to cover the bush in case of severe frosts. Even the most cold-resistant varieties of horticultural crops need this. Recommended blackberry varieties:

Tayberry- high-yielding variety with impressive fruits and late fruiting;
Blake characterized by medium yield, resistance to adverse weather conditions, dense fruits and medium early ripening;
Prime Arc 45 is a variety of blackberry with erect stems and lack of thorns, the imposing berries of which are distinguished by their density and high sugar content.

Blackberry benefit and harm

The fragrant berries of the garden berry culture are valued not only for their excellent taste, but also for the huge amount of vitamins, mineral and tannin compounds, amino acids, as well as pectin, fructose and fiber. This explains the fact that blackberries have been used to treat many diseases since ancient times. Being an effective tonic and natural remedy, sweet and sour fruits help to restore strength after serious illnesses and strengthen the immune system. For the preparation of folk remedies, herbalists also use other parts of the plant - leaves, shoots, roots, inflorescences.

So, why is blackberry so useful?

Tea based on shrub leaves improves metabolism in the body, helping to eliminate toxic substances.
Blackberry root infusion helps to normalize blood composition, reduce inflammation, and improve the condition of the nervous system.
Medicinal decoction is useful for diseases of the throat and inflammatory processes in the oral cavity.
Fresh berries are useful for low hemoglobin levels, loss of strength, exhaustion, as well as problems in the cardiovascular system.
Regular consumption of berries is the best prevention against colds and other infectious diseases, and cosmetic berry masks are an excellent alternative to expensive cosmetics for skin rejuvenation.

Despite the huge number of valuable elements in its composition, blackberries can do harm if you do not comply with the required dose and do not take into account some contraindications. One of these factors is individual intolerance. Therefore, at the slightest sign of an allergic reaction, it is necessary to stop taking it and contact a medical institution.

Useful properties of blackberries and contraindications

Dark, tasty blackberries are a favorite treat for adults and children. But they are beneficial when their use is moderate and does not cause discomfort. Thanks to the many nutrients Blackberry has the following features:

cleansing;
antipyretic;
diuretic;
astringent;
antibacterial;
soothing;
antioxidant;
wound healing;
rejuvenating.

Varieties of thornless garden blackberry

With the advent of new thornless varieties, blackberry bushes have increasingly begun to appear in the backyards of many gardeners. Such varieties are known not only for their ease of care, but also for the size of the berries, excellent taste characteristics, as well as resistance to various adverse factors, such as drought, spring frosts, and lower temperatures in winter.

What varieties of thornless culture are better to give preference to ?!

Navajo - frost resistance, high yield, resistance to pests.
Loch Tay - the density of berries, resistance to heat, early fruiting.
Chester - high yield, large-fruited berries, winter hardiness.
Karaka Bek - long-term preservation of fruits, tolerance to high temperatures and lack of precipitation, weight of berries is about 10-11 g.
Orkan - medium winter hardiness, late fruiting, high yield.

Blackberry giant, varieties

Among the huge number of varieties of garden blackberries, such a variety as the Giant compares favorably. Its berries reach 15 g, and have a sweet taste with notes of sourness. The first inflorescences on the shoots of a spreading shrub appear in early summer, followed by fruits that ripen by July. The fruiting of a plant of this variety lasts from mid-summer to the end of September. With proper care and timely watering, the Giant blackberry will thank you with an unusually high yield (about 30 kg per bush).

What blackberries love: soil, space, moisture

Despite its unpretentiousness in care, some features during planting and further cultivation should still be taken into account. Like any berry crop, she prefers sunny places, protected from the winds. When planting a shrub in the shade, its shoots will begin to stretch upward, while increasing the deciduous part and reducing the number of inflorescences, which directly affects the yield level.

When choosing soil for planting garden blackberries, it is worth considering the fertility and moisture capacity of the soil. For this, loams and chernozem are the best suited. It is not recommended to grow blackberries on limestone soils, due to the lack of essential minerals.

If the site is dominated by sandy soil, care must be taken in advance to apply the necessary fertilizers and clay in order to normalize its composition. When choosing a landing site, it is worth considering the occurrence of groundwater, which should be located no closer than 1 meter to the surface of the earth. Otherwise, the plant will weaken and die due to waterlogging of the root system.

Blackberry planting rules, 5 golden rules

In order to grow a strong and full-fledged shrub on a personal plot, first you need to responsibly approach the choice of variety. To date, there is a huge variety of them, among which you can choose resistant to both high temperatures and severe frosts. Therefore, when choosing seedlings, one should be guided by the climatic conditions of the region of residence. In addition, a number of other factors should be taken into account:

IN in the southern regions, blackberries can be planted in the fall - 25-30 days before the first frost. During this time, she will have time to take root, and gain strength for spring growth. In other regions (Urals, North, Far East), it is recommended to plant seedlings in the spring, having previously prepared and fertilized the soil in mid-autumn.
When planting, it is very important to observe the distance between the rows of bushes, which should be at least 2 meters, the distance between bushes for normal growth is enough 70-80 cm (for upright shoots) and 1.5 m (for climbing varieties). The size of the landing pit should be at least 50 cm deep.
Each hole must be filled with fertile soil, or mixed with a part of mineral fertilizers for better rooting and growth of the shrub. When planting, you should pay attention to the growth bud at the base of the stem - it should be sprinkled with soil no more than 3 cm.
Mulching the bush will prevent the appearance of weeds and pests, as well as improve the flow of moisture and nutrients to the root system of the plant. For this fit sawdust, peat, straw.
When filling the deepening with soil, it is necessary to leave a small recess - for the normal supply of moisture to the roots, and more rational watering in a dry season. After planting, the shrub needs regular watering for 45-50 days.

Creeping blackberry garter, trellis blackberry

The shoots of climbing varieties of garden blackberries are quite flexible and prone to brittleness, so the garter will protect the plant from adverse windy weather, and allow the sun's rays to better penetrate the ripening berries. In addition, it is much more convenient to harvest a rich harvest of horticultural crops from tied branches.

The first garter should be carried out the next year after planting. Very often, gardeners use a fan garter, which consists in attaching the stems to a support at least 2 meters high. To do this, place a stake between the bushes, to which tie up one shoot from the bushes located on both sides. Thus, air exchange between the branches improves, and the plant begins to develop better.

The trellis method is characterized by the following features:

placement of 2 metal supports with a height of about 1.5-1.8 m and at a distance of at least 6 m from each other;
between the supports, at a height of 65 cm from the ground, they stretch a twine or wire to which the shoots are tied;
each branch must be fixed separately, in order to avoid damage to it, as well as normal growth and formation of fruits;
if the shoots are too long, the wire must be stretched again, already at a height of about 140 cm from the ground, and the shoots must be carefully attached.

DIY blackberry trellis, master class

blackberry pruning

Pruning berry bushes is a necessary procedure throughout the entire growth period. Removing weak and dry shoots allows the plant to develop normally and receive enough sunlight. Experienced gardeners recommend cutting the shoots only 2 years after planting the crop.

This procedure must be carried out several times a year - in early spring, in summer - forming a bush, and in autumn - cutting off old shoots that have given up their crop. Trimming shoots improves flowering for the next season, allows you to evenly distribute the supply of nutrients, and also increase winter hardiness.

blackberry care in autumn

The main feature of the autumn care of the berry crop is the removal of all weakened shoots. If the seedling is an annual, it is worth shortening the elongated young shoots, which should accumulate enough strength for spring growth. Shoots of two-year-old shrubs that have recently been harvested should be cut near the base of the bush. This will allow you to accumulate nutrients for the development of annual shoots, which will significantly affect the yield next year.

The main features of caring for blackberries in the autumn :

removal of weak, dry and pest-affected branches;
shortening the young shoots of the plant by a quarter of the entire length;
treatment of shoots before winter warming with copper sulphate;
fertilizing shrubs with potash and phosphorus fertilizers;
on climbing shrubs, about 8-9 strong shoots must be left, the rest must be cut off in order to avoid depletion of the root system of the bush.

Blackberry pruning video for beginners

Propagation of blackberries in autumn

There are several ways to propagate blackberries - by dividing the bush, cuttings, layering, and even seeds. Each of them has its own characteristics, among which the type of culture and the time of the procedure are not the last.

In autumn, the following methods are often used:

Propagation by root cuttings. To do this, you need to dig a bush and prune young roots, no more than 1 cm thick. Cuttings up to 10 cm long can be planted immediately in a permanent place, or stored in a cool, dark room until spring, and then planted in the soil.
Reproduction by layering consists in dropping young shoots for the winter period in order to root. In spring, the young plant must be cut off from the main bush and transplanted.
Reproduction by annual shoots is carried out during the period of autumn crop pruning. To do this, it is necessary to place the cut shoot in such a way that its lower part is in a container with water, and the top is in a container with soil.

Preparing blackberries for winter

Blackberry wintering

Proper preparation of the berry crop for the winter season guarantees the successful transfer of frost and the accumulation of nutrients for further development. This includes not only proper pruning, but also the appropriate regimen of fertilizing and watering.

During the processing and warming of the shoots, it is necessary to mulch the soil near the bushes. This will keep the soil moist and protect the roots from freezing. Blackberries tolerate winter well under shelter from sawdust, fallen leaves, hay or straw. With the onset of spring heat, the shelter is removed and taken to spring work.

Blackberry garden in spring, care

The first thing to do after removing winter insulation is to inspect each plant for dry or damaged shoots. We remove the extra branches with the help of a garden pruner, and closer to the middle of spring we form a bush, leaving about 7-8 young shoots. By following a series of spring care rules, you will get a generous harvest and a strong, disease-resistant shrub.

So, what should a novice gardener pay attention to in the spring ?!

Removal of shelter and pruning of unsuitable shoots.
Loosening the soil, removing weeds.
Mulching the soil with natural materials - sawdust, peat, dry leaves.
Application of fertilizers to stimulate growth and strengthen the plant.
Treatment of pests and various phyto-diseases.
Tying blackberry shoots to a support.

Blackberry pruning in spring

Propagation of blackberries by cuttings in spring

Cuttings are one of the easiest ways to increase bramble plantings with a minimum of effort. To do this, it is necessary to cut annual shoots about 15-20 cm long during autumn pruning. Then we place the material in a container with water with the lower bud down. After some time, young roots will appear in the water. We separate the young seedling from the cutting, and place it in a container with fertile soil for further development. We provide young blackberries with regular watering and full lighting. With the onset of spring warming, we transplant seedlings into open ground.

Feeding blackberries in spring

When preparing the site for planting blackberries, care must be taken to apply organic fertilizers, such as humus or bird droppings (1 kg of fertilizer per 1 sq.m.). The introduction of nitrogen preparations is mandatory for the shrub, since it has a positive effect on the growth of shoots, and also favorably affects the quality and quantity of the crop.

Blackberry develops well after adding saltpeter (20 g per 1 sq.m) or urea (15 g per 1 sq.m) to the soil. Liquid fertilizers are recommended to be applied at a distance of 30-40 cm from the base of the root system of the bush, in a special groove in the soil. This will avoid oversaturation of the culture with mineral or organic components. The soil retains moisture and nutrients well, which was previously mulched with leaf humus, peat or rotted manure.

Blackberry summer care

With the onset of the summer period, care in caring for blackberries does not decrease in any way. To get a strong compact bush, it is necessary to form it correctly and in a timely manner, shortening too long shoots in several steps. The first time - when the stems reach 120 cm in height and above. In this case, it is necessary to shorten the branches by 10 cm. When lateral shoots appear, we cut them by 40-50 cm. This will save the strength of the shrub for further flowering and fruiting.

With the appearance of inflorescences, it is necessary to introduce fertilizers into the soil, as well as provide berry plantations with regular watering. An equally important step in caring for a berry crop is loosening the soil and removing weeds.

Watering blackberries in summer

Like any plant, blackberries are very responsive to timely and abundant watering. Especially the shrub needs moisture during the period of flowering and ripening of berries. In the hot season, an adult shrub needs at least 20 liters of warm water per week. To facilitate work with a huge number of bushes, a drip irrigation mechanism is used. This design contributes to the uniform distribution of moisture to each plant, saving not only the gardener's time, but also positively affecting the development and yield of berry crops.

As experienced gardeners say, the first problem is to start it, the second is to remove it from the site. Briefly and to the point: what you need to know about growing blackberries, the basics and nuances of agricultural technology, surprises and surprises that await when you get acquainted with a culture that is not very common in our area.

Did you know that all varieties grown in the world are from the USA, except for 4-5 of European origin, and even then they were bred as a result of crossing with American ones? And how should the growth point be located when planting different species? And what is the difference between a straight-growing blackberry and a weaving one? Or that plants turn after the sun, choosing their own direction on a support?

What you need to know about garden blackberries?

Landing nuances

You can plant blackberries in autumn and spring. In southern regions with mild winters and warm autumns, or with a temperate climate, autumn planting is preferred. Plants have time to take root, in the spring they grow earlier. In the northern regions - for example, in the Urals, in Ufa, it is appropriate to hold an event in the spring to avoid freezing of seedlings.

Soil requirements: deep sandy loam, light sandy loam, if loam, well drained. Soil acidity pH 5.6 - 6.5. Does not like strongly acidic soils. The humus content is directly proportional to the yield.

Like raspberries, it develops better and is more productive in lighted areas, but unlike it, it easily tolerates shading. Less demanding on watering, drought-resistant due to the length of the root system - more than 1 m, the location of its main part in the upper 60 cm of the soil.

The root bud of creeping varieties is directed upwards when planting, straight-growing varieties are immersed in the ground by 1-2 cm.
Important: for thornless varieties, compaction up to 1.5-2 m between plants is possible, prickly varieties love space, it is not recommended to reduce less than 2 m.

A small digression: when plantings are compacted, the intensity of feeding is increased, since the feeding area is reduced. Beginning gardeners are not recommended to reduce the distance to 1-1.5 m x 1.7-2 m, but you can not calculate the strength and be left without a crop. If you are growing blackberries for yourself and there is no problem of free space - give the plants space.

As for the blackberry cultivation scheme- bush method, trench - in rows. In the second, a place for supports is pre-marked, carriers are installed.

When planting, mullein, chicken manure, at a concentration of at least 1:10, humus, is introduced into the planting pit. Superphosphate is also added in an amount of up to 150 g, potash fertilizers 40-45 g. It is believed that this top dressing is enough for the first 2-3 years of life, but does not preclude annual spring fertilization.

Mix the fertilizer with the soil so that the pit is 1/3 full. The root system should not come into contact with manure: it is sprinkled with a layer of 10-15 cm of humus to 1/2 of the total volume, then watered. After the water is absorbed, the seedling can be placed.

We pinch the shoot at a height of up to 25 cm for accustoming to a horizontal position

The scheme for creeping (kumaniki) and erect dewdrops differs significantly. The first ones are planted at a distance between bushes of 1.5-2 m with a distance of 2-2.5 m between the rows. If there is free space, the distance can be extended up to 2.5 m.
Rosyaniki (erect) are planted at a distance of 2-2.5 m and the same number between rows. Kumaniki are grown depending on the characteristics of a particular variety - the height of the plants and the planned formation of the bush. So, low plants in fan formation are grown in rows with a distance of up to 2.5 m, when grown on T-shaped supports or another two-line trellis, in a single-lane method - according to the scheme 1.8-2 m in a row with a distance between rows of at least 2.5 m.

Plants are planted in exactly the same way as raspberries, currants and other shrubs. The cuttings are carefully lowered into holes from 40x40 cm to 60x60 (by the size of the rhizome) at the same depth, sprinkled with soil, slightly compacted, and then watered. If the soil is moist, then watering is not needed.

After the offspring are shortened to a height of 25-30 cm, mulched with a small layer of humus, last year's sawdust or straw.

Planted in the fall does not water - this delays the growing season, complicates the transition to the sleep phase. On the other hand, dry soil freezes faster, and plants that do not receive enough moisture may not survive the winter well. You should not abuse it if the soil is wet - even more so. The best option is to water in advance, without waiting for late autumn, and enough. During the rainy season, watering should definitely not be done.
In autumn, with the approach of a permanent frost, shelter is needed.

Features of care: shortening is necessary!

Consider the features of caring for blackberries. A necessary condition for proper development and abundant fruiting is the formation of a bush. As for rationing, 3-4 annual shoots are left for brambles, and 5-8 for creeping dewdrops. Rationing depending on the method of cultivation: with a bush, 3-8 shoots are left, with a trench (in rows) 10-15 pieces per linear meter.

As the shoots grow, shortening is systematically carried out 2-3 times during the growing season. Otherwise, the plantation will turn into an impenetrable jungle. So, creeping species can produce whips of more than 10-12 m.

For upright pruning, double pruning is as follows: in the first year of life, to stimulate branching, the tops of fruitful ones are shortened by 5-7 cm. Further, in mid-early July, the tops of young shoots that have reached 30-35 cm are shortened by 7-10 cm. This is called tweezers, and is carried out for greater branching upon reaching 80-90 cm.

Curly vines are shortened at the bend, including the tops, preventing growth to a length of more than 3.5-4 m. This is done not only to increase the volume, but to prevent thickening.
In May-June, rationing is carried out - weak, thin trunks are removed.
An alternative way is to shorten the lateral branching by 4-5 buds in the fall to reach 35-40 cm, next spring - by the same amount.

Further, everything is simple: fertilizing and watering, mulching and loosening the row spacing. Compared to raspberries, the heroine of our story is less demanding both in terms of the amount of fertilizer and watering. For more information about these annual pruning events, see the article in our cycle.
For mulching, rotted manure, buckwheat or rice husks, stale sawdust, spent mushroom substrate are used.

Bush formation

The scheme of fastening the blackberry to the trellis, methods
1, 2 - Single-cavity with fastening of each shoot by two methods
3 - Single-cavity support in one row
4 - Two-cavity, we fasten the shoots by weaving around the wire
5, 6 - types of T-shaped trellis

Both types form differently. The easiest way for gardeners is to place nets near the fence, thereby forming a hedge and giving support to plants. Also, single bushes can be fenced with stakes or driven in one in the center.
For industrial plantings, the approach is different. They construct standard supports used in raspberries, directed from north to south to improve illumination. On bars, stakes from 1.2 to 2.5 m high, depending on the type, 2-3 rows of wire are pulled with an interval of 50 cm to 90 cm. To fix the branches, use garters, pieces of wire, pin them with clamps. Do not use oxidizing materials. We will tell about all the details later in the article about the construction of the trellis, its types and choice.
Vertical molding is suitable for upright, growing on a single-sheet or two-plane trellis with separation on both sides of the fruit-bearing vine and a young, bushy method.
The second and intermediate forms, hybrid, are more suitable for the weaving method - wrapping the stem around the wire, according to the principle of a wicker fence, double-sided breeding, when the shoots are laid out on two sides - fruiting one by one, young this year - by the second, or fan molding. Less often, weaving is used with a solid horizontal wall, as well as on curved arcs - supports.

As an example: a single-plane support, the first row at a height of 70 cm - 1 m, the second - 1.7-2 m, at arm's length, the third - between them. The second option: the first row - at a height of 25-30 cm - for the direction of young schoolchildren, the second - 1-1.5, the third up to 2 m.

Fruit-bearing shoots, especially spiny ones, become stiff; if you try to bend during molding or remove the vine before wintering, they can break. Character is brought up from childhood - in the first place, blackberries are taught to be placed horizontally on supports. They do this to facilitate the garter, but the main thing is to remove it from the trellis in the fall without a break.

To do this, when the seedling reaches a height of 15-20 cm, it is pinned to the ground with a horn, a wooden spacer, a piece of non-rigid, non-oxidizing wire. In the future, it can go up with a garter to a vertical support, or horizontally.

Feeding features

To increase the yield of blackberries, they mulch with humus, compost, on top - with straw, sawdust (not fresh). Agricultural practices are also useful for maintaining soil moisture and protecting against weeds.
Responsive to the application of nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers in the spring, potash. In the first year, organics are not needed. In early spring, as soon as the snow melts, mineral fertilizers are scattered around the plants.

Here is a scheme for feeding blackberries in the spring based on one plant: 4.5-7 kg of humus (compost) - if necessary, 30 g of potassium supplements, 50-90 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate or 10-15 g of urea.
In April - early May, before the ovary, mullein is also introduced at a concentration of 1:5, bird droppings 1:10. The application of complex fertilizers, including nitrogen and a mineral component, can replace these top dressing.

And what then or after the ball

The fruiting vine is cut to the ground - replacement shoots will come in their place. Young shoots of this year are removed from supports, carefully laid on the ground, covered. This must be done immediately after fruiting, so as not to deplete the strength of the root system in vain.

For wintering, the vine is removed from the trellis - just like grapes, they cover it. In the spring - they open it, hang it back in place, clean it from the remnants of foliage, damaged branches - and a new circle has begun. In regions with severe winters, additional measures are used - more about preparing for winter in the author's publication.

The frost resistance of blackberries lies almost in the same range as grapes. Depending on the variety, within -15 -20 C ° or -20 -30 C °. However, it mostly requires cover, except for the upright variety grown in the southern regions. You can compare it with the winter hardiness of large-fruited raspberries - an equally problematic crop in terms of wintering. Successful cultivation experience in the conditions of the Ufa region, the Urals, Volgograd indicates the possibility of growing in a covering form.

The culture is laborious only at the first stage, and only for those who do not know which side to approach the cultivation of blackberries - fears pass after the first successes. In fact, this is almost the most unpretentious berry shrub that does not require special care - for gardeners, and a fertile, unpretentious culture that surpasses its raspberry sister in productivity at times. In comparison with it, it grows like weeds, multiplies at the same speed, is also unpretentious, does not require intensive feeding, disinterestedly giving a fragrant purple berry, not demanding anything in return - except perhaps caring kind hands. Good harvest to you!

Blackberries are very rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. It has anti-inflammatory properties, inhibits the aging and development of cancer cells, and as a bonus, it has an excellent taste and aroma. To grow a delicious healthy berry, you need to surround it with proper care: give it enough nutrition when planting, take care of the shoots when leaving: cover, tie up, protect from diseases.

planting blackberries

For the successful planting of blackberries, so that the berry quickly takes root, does not get sick and gains strength, it is important to follow simple agrotechnical recommendations. Choose a suitable planting time, decide on a site, carefully prepare a planting hole and place the seedling in it correctly.

The advice of agronomists about will help you choose the right seedlings of fruit and berry crops.

Blackberry planting dates

It is advisable to plant blackberry seedlings in the southern regions in the fall, and in the northern regions in the spring.

Place for planting blackberries

When planting blackberry seedlings in the southern regions, you should find a place for it, protected from the scorching midday and afternoon sun. In the northern regions, it is better to plant blackberries in an open sunny place - then the berries will be sweeter.

Pit for planting blackberries

After you have decided on the planting site, you should prepare a planting hole or, if you are planting several varieties with different ripening dates (which is preferable), then a trench.

We dig a trench with a depth of about 1 m and a width of about 60 cm. We fill the trench from below with half-rotted plant residues, including branches to ¼ depth. We mix the excavated soil with humus and ash in a ratio of 1: 1 and fill it with this mixture to the level of the soil.

This labor-intensive work will allow blackberry bushes to develop faster and produce larger yields over several years, compared to seedlings planted in unprepared soil.

How to plant a blackberry

I planted seedlings and two-year-olds, and young annuals from rooted shoot tips. From experience I can say: in the presence of a developed root system in annual seedlings, there is no difference in the development of the plant.

When planting, we do not bury the seedlings, the soil level should remain the same as it was before transplanting. After planting the seedling, water the ground abundantly and mulch. Subsequently, for about a month, the soil under the seedling should not dry out.

blackberry care

When caring for a blackberry, it is important to pay enough attention to its shoots - tie it up in time and correctly, form a bush, cover and protect delicate branches for the winter from the vagaries of the weather. For watering and fertilizing, blackberries are unpretentious and manage with standard measures, like other berry bushes.

Watering blackberries

The blackberry has a fairly deep root system, thanks to which the adult plant is undemanding to frequent watering and has a long lifespan - the bush can live and actively bear fruit in the area for 25-30 years!

During the season, it will be enough to carry out 2-3 water-charging (abundant) irrigations. If you keep the surface of the soil under the bushes mulched, the blackberries will not feel a lack of moisture. It is especially useful to spend in the garden.

Blackberry care in the summer in the first year of planting

After planting and rooting the seedling, the blackberry begins to grow shoots that will bear fruit the next year. Since the blackberry is a covering crop on the territory of almost all of Russia (with the exception of the southernmost regions), it needs to be given a creeping shape.

When caring for blackberries in the summer, immediately with the appearance of new shoots, we accustom them to a horizontal position - making it easier for ourselves, thereby autumn work. To do this, when the new shoots reach a length of about 10-15 cm, we pin their tops to the ground at an angle of 90 ° C. And then, as we grow, piercing the hairpin 2-3 times, we achieve that the branches of the blackberry themselves spread along the ground without any effort.

In the first year of the growing season, our efforts are over until autumn.

blackberry care in autumn

In autumn, we tie the branches along the trellis, on which we plan to raise blackberries in the spring. Be sure to treat with a strong solution of iron or copper sulphate before shelter. I process in proportion: 300 g of iron sulfate per 10 liters of water.

Blackberry shelter for the winter

After spraying, we cover the blackberry with two layers of agrofibre with a density of 60 g / m². We dig in the edges with earth so that strong gusts of wind do not tear off the shelter. You can also cover blackberries after the onset of slight frosts.

In this form, blackberries winter well.

Blackberry care in spring

In the spring, when the threat of serious night frosts has passed, we open the blackberries. Immediately after opening, we once again treat with any fungicide. In fact, blackberries are not as painful a culture as, for example, raspberries, but experience has shown that if preventive measures are not followed, they are susceptible to diseases such as didimella and anthracnose. Therefore, I highly recommend not to ignore preventive treatments with fungicidal preparations.
After opening and processing, carefully lift the shoots onto the trellis and tie them up, removing the dried ends of the shoots with secateurs.

After blooming leaves and before flowering, we carry out 1 treatment with any insecticide.

In parallel with the flowering of shoots tied to a trellis, blackberries begin to expel replacement shoots from the ground, which will bear fruit next year. We act with them in the same way as last year: we bend them to the ground and form them horizontally. After about 1-1.5 months, you can come for the harvest!

Blackberry harvest

It is very important not to pick the fruits as soon as they turn black - the blackberry will still be very sour - you need to let it hang for 5 days. When the berry picks up sugar, it will fall into your hand at the slightest touch. Then - this is a real delicacy: the taste with an admixture of different fruits is indescribable!