Designs of brick heating stoves for summer cottages. Do-it-yourself construction of a brick oven for a private house. General description and required materials
Most brick ovens used for the home have basically the same design and manufacturing technology. Therefore, no matter what type of brick you choose, you must adhere to certain rules and requirements for its manufacture. This applies to the place of its installation, and to the material used during installation, but, most importantly, to the technology of laying bricks.
Choosing a place where the oven will stand
First of all, you need to decide on a place for the oven. It must be installed in such a position that not only heat the maximum possible area, but also the safety rules must be observed.
A gap of at least 15 cm must be observed between the rafters and the chimney. In addition, the strongly heated parts of the stove must also be removed from walls, ceilings and other fire hazardous elements.
There are several basic schemes for small spaces, how to place different types ovens. As a rule, a brick oven for a house, the projects of which provide for the location in such a way as to heat as much as possible large quantity premises, is placed at the junction of two or three rooms, while one of them is a kitchen. The only exception is the fireplace stove, which is usually installed in the largest room, on the wall opposite the entrance.
Safety requirements for the installation site
Due to the fact that the brick oven for the house is installed on a foundation specially poured for it, it is necessary to choose a place in such a way that you do not have to cut the ceiling and underground logs. A separate base, not connected to the foundation of the house, is required in almost all cases, even if the stove was designed with the house.
An exception can be made only for certain types of furnaces that have a small structural weight. So, for example, a low and wide brick cooking oven for a house, the projects of which involve the use of a minimum amount of material, is installed only on thermal insulation.
If the floor is on logs, it’s a good idea to strengthen it before installing the stove flooring with additional jumpers. If a monolithic foundation is laid under the house, then an additional foundation is not necessary, it is enough to lay a litter and you can lay out a brick.
The pipe must be at least 1.5 m from the roof ridge and be 0.5 m higher than it.
Once the site is determined, a brick perimeter can be laid out on the floor to give a better idea of what it will look like in the future.
Foundation
As a rule, a do-it-yourself brick oven for a house is used in wooden houses installed on tape or tape.
After the place on which the stove for the brick house will stand is determined, it is necessary to complete the foundation. The reliability and uniformity of the masonry, as well as appearance future oven. Therefore, the pouring of the base should be approached with due attention.
The base is poured 5 cm wider on all sides than the future furnace, according to the general technology for making foundations. If modern materials are used, for example, Izospan D, it is enough to lay two layers of waterproofing: on a sand cushion under the base and on top of the foundation itself. Another way to perform waterproofing: sheets of asbestos 4-6 cm high are laid on top of the top layer of roofing material. Then, last layer, felt soaked in a very liquid masonry composition. After the felt has dried, bricks can be laid.
Basic rules for laying a brick oven
If you want to fold the stove so that it lasts as long as possible without requiring repair, and even more so re-laying, you must follow some requirements for the materials used and the laying technology.
A brick oven for the house, built with your own hands, heats up quite unevenly throughout the body. Especially high temperatures in the area of the furnace, which is due to the use different material for masonry. Firstly, this will significantly save on raw materials, since cheaper material can be used for some parts of the furnace. Secondly, the use of a clay-sand mixture throughout the body of the furnace is unreasonable. Such a solution has the peculiarity of strongly absorbing moisture, which leads to the destruction of the masonry in places that are not subject to heating and drying.
Requirements for laying bricks
When choosing a brick, pay attention to its quality, which can be determined even visually. A good, high-quality brick is distinguished by a pinkish tint and a clear sonorous sound. You should not choose a brick oven for laying a brick house (photo below), the orange-red material is unburned raw material, but the purple hue indicates burnt brick.
The first rows of the underfloor part are laid from ordinary red brick with a cement-based mortar.
The firebox and part of the convector in the places of greatest heating is made of mixed masonry of the usual stove and clay-sand mortar is used.
The part of the furnace, which is also heated, but not higher than 200 degrees, will be made, albeit with the use of ceramic bricks, but already on a cement mixture.
In the upper part of the chimney, where the heating temperature does not exceed 80 degrees, ordinary red brick is again used.
Varieties of brick ovens
There are several main types of ovens:
- heating, designed exclusively for space heating, therefore, it occupies a minimum of usable area;
- cooking, intended only for heating the stove, such an oven can be used even in summer time, since it does not strongly heat the surrounding air;
- Heating and cooking, combining the characteristics of the two previous types. The most common option in the manufacture of a stove for a brick house (photo below);
- a fireplace stove, which is used not only for space heating, but also as a decorative element for the interior of a room.
Heating or Dutch oven
The execution of a brick house stove, the drawings for which are given below, is the simplest, due to the minimum of structural elements in its manufacture. In addition, such a furnace involves the lowest fuel consumption.
One of the main advantages is the ability to fit it into almost any room. At the same time, such a brick oven for the house warms up quickly enough, in just 1.5-2 hours, however, it cools down quite quickly in comparison with other types of ovens.
Among the shortcomings, one can note a rather low coefficient useful action- less than 40%. In addition, to build a water heater into it, you will have to thoroughly break your head. The problem is that the flow of hot air that moves in the oven cannot be disturbed by turning on additional elements. This leads, firstly, to a large decrease in efficiency, and secondly, to the appearance of a large amount of soot.
Cooking ovens
"Cooking" does not mean at all that this stove is not capable of heating housing, with a room of up to 50 square meters. m she can handle it. However, its main function is still cooking, so the main heat is spent on heating a thick cast-iron stove with two burners. Cast iron is used to increase heat transfer.
The main advantage of such an oven is the possibility of cooking in an area where there are frequent power outages, besides, any food turns out to be much tastier on a live fire. It is beneficial to install a similar brick oven for the home, on wood, and for preparing feed for livestock and poultry, steaming cereals and drying dried fruits. In addition, the design of the stove involves its use in the summer, when excessive heat in the house is completely unnecessary.
The disadvantage of the cooking stove is that it is unrealistic to use it for full heating in winter time. Even if you increase the overall dimensions of the device, this will not increase its efficiency. Therefore, as an alternative, a generally accepted option is used, which combines the advantages of both types, while successfully compensating for their shortcomings.
Heating and cooking stoves
The most preferred option for permanent housing are heating and cooking stoves for a brick house, combining all the functions of these devices. In addition, such stoves can be easily oriented in the room to get the most efficient heating of the home, and the standard set of basic features can be supplemented with an oven, a drying niche, a sunbed and a water tank. It all depends on the design of the heating and cooking stove that you choose.
For heating in such furnaces, a channel or bell design is used, each of which has its own advantages. A brick duct stove for the house, on wood, warms up the room faster, while a bell-type stove allows you to maintain optimal temperature long time. Therefore, for a residential building, it is better to use an option that combines these two structures.
Traditional Russian oven
The most common is the Russian stove, which can be used in two different modes. In the summer, it is used exclusively for the cooking process, due to the fact that the heating channels are closed with an additional damper and hot gas goes directly into the chimney. In winter, the damper is opened, which provides heating of the room. As a rule, an oven is built into the Russian stove, which is a kind of additional heat accumulator.
Often, a heated lounger is additionally attached to the oven for a brick house due to the use of caps, which are performed without losing the efficiency of the entire device.
The disadvantage of the Russian stove is mainly its rather impressive size due to the removal hob separate from the body.
Swede oven
Another option is a more compact device in which the hob is hidden in a recess. In addition, additionally above the stove there is a special niche for drying various herbs, berries and other products.
What is another name for such stoves for a brick house - "Swede". Such a device has a lot of advantages in comparison with other stoves. Due to its design, the device has the highest efficiency - more than 60%, since the heating channels go to the entire brick oven for the house.
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When you think about building your own home, there is a desire to make it warm and cozy. Modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc., but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That is why stove heating is being actively used again.
The stove is a highlight of design, and an economical heating device. For laying the stove, it is much easier to find an experienced stove-maker. But this long-forgotten craft has just begun to gain popularity, and there are very few experienced stove-makers. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: “How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?”.
Properly laying out an oven requires a lot of effort, and you will also have to study many instructions for laying brick ovens.
Types of furnaces
The first step is to choose a stove that is right for you. The most popular are:
- Dutch;
- Russian;
- Swede.
Dutch
This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent her from giving off the accumulated heat well.
Russian oven
Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence - free space where you can relax. Under the bed there is a firebox, you can cook food in it. There is a stove next to the firebox, and a blower a little lower, which supports the fire. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.
A Russian stove can easily warm up a room whose size exceeds 40 square meters. But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials will be required.
Swede
Relate to compact options. In length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusualness of such a stove is that a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.
This design is flammable. But the risk of fire is reduced by dampers.
Construction rules
A homemade oven must meet the requirements fire safety. Therefore, it is necessary to pay special attention to the preparation for construction.
- Decide on the location of the furnace.
- Prepare the correct drawing.
- Buy quality materials for construction.
- Purchase of tools.
- Draw up a cost estimate.
Properly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help to avoid many mistakes. Ready-made plans can be found on the Internet.
When choosing an installation site, you need to take into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the type of furnace. It’s difficult to calculate everything on your own, so it’s easier to use a reduced brick oven model, a photo of which is on the Internet.
Choice of working tools
When laying the stove, measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used:
- Jointing - floods the solution into the seams and gives the joints an aesthetic appearance. It will come in handy if the oven is left without cladding or plaster.
- Trowel.
- Pickaxe.
- Solution shovel.
- Plumb.
- Furnace line.
materials
The heat transfer and durability of the furnace will depend on the material that was used in the construction. Therefore, this stage is very important.
For cladding, ceramic bricks are used - grade M-500. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber must be laid out only from refractory bricks.
In addition to brick, it is used:
- Screened sand.
- Clay - normal fat content.
Foundation for the furnace
The basis for a homemade oven is made at the time of construction, since a brick oven requires a strong foundation
First, they dig a hole. It should be noted that the width and length of the pit should exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm
After the pit is leveled, and half covered with sifted sand, well compacted and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is placed. Further, all free space is poured with a solution of concrete, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontality with the help of a building level.
After 5-6 days, the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is disassembled, waterproofing is laid and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:
- lay out of brick;
- re-build the formwork, filling it with concrete to the beginning of the floor. All voids are covered with sand, ramming it.
The recipe for concrete mortar - one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel.
masonry process
The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. Clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sifted through a sieve.
First, the outer layer, which consists of bricks, is assembled, and then the middle. There should be no voids in the seams, so fill them with a clay mixture.
The first rows are built with solid bricks. The sutures of the first row require dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.
The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used in the construction of smoke paths. The chimney is built of red burnt bricks. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a “castle” layout.
Photo of brick ovens
There are a large number of different stoves that can serve both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room, the desired option is selected that will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with the obligatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.
In the conditions of the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with orders can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure on your own is quite difficult, since each stove-maker has his own experience and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.
Criteria for choosing a brick oven
If, nevertheless, it is decided to do such work on your own, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to the appearance and design of the furnace, but also to its heating abilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.
When choosing a furnace by size, it must be taken into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning the installation of the stove in one place or another.
Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by its form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a ledge in the form of a stove bench or stove, and others.
Stoves can only be used for heating living rooms and can be installed, for example, between the living room and bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living rooms and the kitchen.
For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that can be used for other needs.
Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.
Stove selection table depending on the heated area and the location of the rooms:
| Room area, m² | Furnace surface, m² | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two outside corners | Hallway | |
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
All these criteria must be predetermined, and based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or the other model.
Types of brick ovens
As mentioned above, the design of furnaces can be different - both very difficult to build, and quite simple. The most famous of the models are "Dutch", "Swede", "Russian". Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. So, the furnaces of Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.
- There are heating stoves that do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which flue ducts, furnaces, blowers and cleaning chambers pass.
- Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a hot water tank and a drying chamber.
- Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.
- There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and in summer. winter period. Often they are equipped with a heated bed, which may well serve as the basis for the bed.
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Prices for finished heating stoves
heating furnaces
Choosing a place to install the oven
It is also important to provide for the correct installation location of the furnace. Optimal location is the crossroads of the walls of the house. If it does not have a large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is desirable that the structure is located near the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the whole house.
When choosing a place, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:
- The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unhindered control of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
- When erecting a furnace, it is necessary to provide for a separate foundation for it, not connected to the base of the house.
- The chimney must pass between the attic floor beams and not stumble upon them when it is raised - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being built in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
- For fire safety purposes, a heat-resistant flooring made of metal sheet or ceramic tiles must be placed on the floor in front of the furnace door.
Basic design of a brick oven
To know how each of the elements of the furnace works, and what it is intended for, you need to consider the basic design of the heating structure:
- The fuel chamber is designed for laying and burning fuel. It is separated from the blower chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels, through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirecting to the chimney pipe.
- The blower chamber provides an adjustable air supply to the furnace and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, therefore it requires periodic cleaning.
- An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
- Cleaning chambers are necessary, as soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. With the help of them, periodic cleaning of the furnace is carried out to maintain normal traction.
- The chimney channels passing inside the furnace may have a different configuration in different models. Hot gaseous products of combustion, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which give off heat to the room.
- Channels direct smoke with combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the furnace and then going outside the building.
One of the most important conditions effective work The stove is a good draft, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the ordering scheme and periodic cleaning in the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to observe the required height of the chimney and its correct location on the roof.
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Materials for building a furnace
An important issue for the long-term functioning of the furnace is the choice quality materials for its masonry, so you should not save on them. To build a building you will need:
- Red refractory brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out very carefully.
- Fireclay bricks are used for laying a combustion chamber in direct contact with fire. It will take from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact amount can be found in the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick is able to withstand temperatures of 1450-1500 °, it keeps heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the walls of the furnace.
- You can’t do without raising the oven without mortar for laying bricks, which is made on the basis of clay. The stove-makers are advised to use the Borovichevsky composition of the solution - it is quite plastic during the laying process and refractory during operation.
- Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, blower and cleaning chambers, valves and a grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.
- Steel wire for fixing cast iron elements in masonry.
- Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.
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Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a furnace, we can consider several models that should be available for masonry even for beginners.
Heating stove by V. Bykov
This oven is for heating purposes only as it does not include a stovetop or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, as it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is able to heat even three rooms.
The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, while its height without a chimney is 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.
The stove is quite simple in laying, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, so the designer himself called it a "thick warm wall." Heat transfer from the entire structure is 2400 kcal/h, but at the same time, 920 kcal/h fall on the side walls, and only 280 kcal/h on its front and back parts. The cross section of the flue duct is 130 × 260 mm.
Thanks to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, opening into a third room, for example, into a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.
The whole design of this model is conditionally divided into two compartments - this is the upper gas outlet and the lower one is the furnace. In the lower part there are two channels - ascending and descending. They help heat the furnace part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the building, preventing it from overheating.
The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are overlapped by ⅔ of bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The walls of the channels not only direct the heated air in the right direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of the furnace. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the exit of warm air into the pipe.
For this oven model you will need the following materials:
- Red refractory brick - 407 pcs.
- White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
- Furnace door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
- Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
- Grate 250×252 mm -1 pc.
- Chimney damper 130×250 mm -1 pc.
- Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc., ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.
Prices for ready-made furnaces for brick ovens
Firebox for brick ovens
Bykov furnace ordering
The laying of the furnace takes place on the foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation must be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before laying, it is laid with a layer of waterproofing - roofing material.
| ordering | Description of works |
|---|---|
 | According to this scheme, two zero rows are presented, which are below the level of the finished floor. Each row will require 22 red bricks. |
 | Masonry, located on the same level with the finishing floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is lined with heat-resistant ceramic tiles. |
 | 1 row - a blower chamber is formed. At the entrance to it, a hewn brick is installed, which facilitates the selection of combustion waste. For laying this row, 21 bricks are needed. |
 | 2nd row - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. For laying this row, 20 bricks are required. |
 | 3rd row - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the ears of the door is embedded in the seams of the masonry. For a row, you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are stacked near the installed door. |
 | 4 row - the front part of the blower chamber is blocked with bricks together with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the swivel well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks. |
 | 5th row - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the blower chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which the combustion waste will slide into the ash-blowing chamber through the grate installed on the same row. A gap of 5 mm must be left between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. It will take 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks. |
 | 6 row - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the chimney well continues to lay out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used. |
 | 7 row - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. In this row, 11 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 fireclay bricks cut obliquely across the entire width were used. |
 | 8 row is laid according to the scheme, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. A row will take 15 bricks. |
 | 9th row - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the oven is placed according to the scheme. |
 | 10 row - bricks are laid according to the scheme in compliance with their direction. This row needs 16 bricks. |
 | 11 row - a brick on the back wall of the furnace and at the entrance to the drop-down channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks. |
 | 12 row - there is a combination of a falling chimney channel and a fuel chamber. For a row, you need 13 whole and 2 in ½ fireclay bricks. |
 | The 13th row is laid, according to the presented scheme, and it uses 10 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks. |
 | The 14th row also fits according to the scheme, it will take 10 whole and 6 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 15 row - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾. |
 | 16 row - the combined descending channel and the fuel chamber are completely blocked with bricks. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the upper gas-air and the lower fuel. For a row, 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are used. |
 | 17th row is laid out of red brick. An opening of the ascending channel is left in it, along its edges hewn obliquely bricks are mounted. Used 14 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks. |
 | 18 row - a horizontal channel of the furnace is formed, it is the basis for mounting five channels that will go vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row, you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 19 row - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the building, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower furnace part of the furnace. The bricks that form this channel must be cut obliquely from below. Used 11 whole and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 20 row - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in the subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal traction. In a row, 7 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks are used. |
 | 21 row - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. Bricks placed at the base of the walls dividing the channels are pressed together from below, as in previous cases. For a row, you need 11 whole, 5 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | The 22nd row is placed according to the scheme in compliance with the formation of channels. For a row, you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces. |
 | The 23rd row is also laid according to the scheme and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 24 row - on this row, the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The upper brick in the wall is hemmed from the two upper sides obliquely. For a row, you need 9 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two. |
 | 25th row - it completes the laying of the walls between the second and third vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry, you need 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 5 in ½ bricks. |
 | 26th row - completion of the wall masonry between the third and fourth vertical channels. The upper brick of the wall is also pressed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks. |
 | 27th row - work is proceeding according to the scheme, and it requires 9 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks. |
 | 28 row - it uses bricks made in ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole ones are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely over the entire thickness. |
 | 29 row - in it, the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. For its masonry, 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2- ½ bricks will be required. |
 | 30 row is also laid out solid, according to the scheme, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 31 rows are laid out according to the scheme and 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are prepared for it. |
 | 32 row - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out, for it you will need 5 whole bricks. |
Stove-fireplace "Swede" A. Ryazankin
Quite popular, due to its efficiency, the heating and cooking stove of the "Swede" type. Its design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.
The appearance of the "Swede" Ryazankin
Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of the house, positioning it so that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swede designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both a spacious and a small building, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of their living rooms.
This stove model is heated with wood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height, excluding the pipe. At the same time, it is necessary to provide for the fact that the fireplace portal will protrude 130 mm beyond the building. The foundation must be larger than the size of the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Swede reaches 3000 kcal / h.
For the construction of this model of the furnace, the following materials will be required:
- Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
- Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
- Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm — 1 pc.
- Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm — 8 pcs.
- Oven 450×360×300 mm - 1 pc.
- Two-burner cast-iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
- Grate 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
- Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
- Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm - 2 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×920 mm - 3 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×530 mm - 2 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×480 mm - 2 pcs.
- Fireplace grate, you can make it yourself from reinforcing bars.
- Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
- Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.
Furnace masonry
The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast-iron elements of the fireplace stove, and the description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.
Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire oven dry to begin with, that is, without mortar, adhering to the scheme and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of the stove.
Another trick of experienced craftsmen is the preliminary adjustment and laying of each of the rows without mortar during work. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or hemmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.
This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be done much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.
When performing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only the diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the furnace. It will also help - it will allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnaces.
So, the laying is done as follows:
Ordering - from 1 to 6 row
- The first, continuous row of the furnace, is laid on onlaid on ready ruberoid foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first it is worth marking the roofing material with a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, relying on the scheme and observing the brick laying configuration, the first row is assembled dry, and then - laying on the mortar.
- 2 row. Metal elements are laid in it, consisting of pieces of reinforcement, on which a fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element vm is completely leveled. The rest of the laying is carried out according to the scheme.
- 3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are mounted, previously wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, a wire is used, which is threaded into special eyelets of a cast-iron frame. Further, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is fixed with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until the final fixing, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.
- 4 row. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, but the series is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be brought out perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
- It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, as well as all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which are wrapped or lined with asbestos, in order to avoid its premature burnout.
- 6 row. On this row, a furnace door is installed, wrapped with an asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.
- 7 row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme, a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
- 8 and 9 rows are laid out according to the presented scheme.
- 10 row. The front wall of the furnace is being strengthened, since a cast-iron hob will be mounted in this part of the building. A steel corner is fixed to the wall with the help of two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid on the place of installation of the plate, and the plate itself is installed. In the same row, the door of another cleaning chamber is fixed.
- 11 and 12 rows are laid out according to the scheme without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row there is an overlap of the cleaning chamber door.
Ordering - from 13 to 24 row
- From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed scheme, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
- 16 row. The device of the walls of the chamber is being completed, located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks for the next row.
- 17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
- 19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are mounted, which are fixed in the same way as the previous ones.
- 20, as well as 21 rows are placed according to the scheme.
- 22 row. Two more doors of the cleaning chambers are being installed.
- 23 row. The laying goes according to the scheme.
- 24 row. A chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the mortar.
- 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
- 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
- From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the scheme.
- 31 row. At this stage, the third, last chimney valve is installed.
- 32-33 rows. In this area of \u200b\u200bthe design, there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.
When passing a pipe through attic floor, it is necessary to isolate combustible materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box is arranged around the chimney with sides 100 ÷ 120 mm higher than the thickness of the ceiling. This "difference" remains in the attic.
If the oven walls are not covered decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.
The oven - "Swede" can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project is presented in the video.
Video: brick "Swede" with a stove bench
And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before deciding on an independent construction of the furnace, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice in the usual laying of bricks on the mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance. you can find out from the link.
Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor
Publication author 27.08.2015
This article contains an understandable, very detailed photo instruction for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing the necessary materials and how to properly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.
Options for installing a stove in the house
The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a house of a small area and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. Such a stove is a good option for barbecue on the grill or shish kebabs.
Options for placing a brick oven
The second scheme is for a solid quadrature house. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained by heat exchange.
The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking is a budget housing option for a bachelor or a small family. Pluses - a warm couch and the possibility of placing a dryer in the hallway.
Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.
Selection of bricks, sand, mortar
In order for the oven to serve for a long time, you need to correctly select all the materials. Bricks are of three types:
- Ceramic - can be used to build a furnace.
- Silicate - not suitable at all in this case, even double M150.
- Refractory - ideal, but they are more often covered only with a firebox and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.
Tip: when choosing a brick for the stove, you need to completely abandon its hollow types.
The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove-setters still make their own solution from river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5: 1) and water in the old fashioned way. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called greasy clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy ready-made oven mixture in the store, having prepared it according to the instructions.
From the fittings, you need to purchase grates, blower and furnace doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.
Preparation, list of tools
Before starting work, you need to determine and mark out the place that the new stove will take.
The chimney pipe must be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.
If you are laying for the first time, professional stove-makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future furnace from the prepared brick. Naturally, without solution. This minimizes the possible risks in real laying, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.
The furnace foundation requires preliminary waterproofing, in area it must exceed the area of \u200b\u200bthe stove.
During the laying of a new row, it is necessary to control the absolute verticality of the walls.
For the construction of a brick oven, the following tools are needed:
- plumb;
- trowel;
- roulette;
- putty knife;
- Bulgarian;
- knitting wire;
- building level;
- metal strips, corners;
- containers for cement and clay mortar.
Step-by-step instructions with a photo for laying the stove
Different stove-makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that have come with years of experience. Here is information about enough easy way creating a fireplace stove for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even for beginner stove-makers.
Foundation masonry
The base row of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is carried out with any brick, some stove-makers even fill this level with rubble.
When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.
The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.
The erection of the furnace body
The first oven row is marked. The horizontal, from which they repel when marking, is the wall of the room.
Where the fireplace is planned to be placed, a grate is placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the furnace mortar.
An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.
Second row laying. The stove wall closest to the wall of the room is reinforced with an additional brick to increase fire safety.
The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the furnace is completely laid. A door is mounted through which the owners will clean out the ashes.
The door is installed on the solution, leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is fixed with a wire that must be laid between the bricks.
The grate is laid not on a simple, but on a refractory brick. In order for it to lie on the same level as the bricks, holes are cut out in fireclay bricks.
The size of the brick is easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.
The large door is mounted next to the installed grate.
The large oven door is similarly fixed with wire fasteners.
The first furnace row is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is strengthened metal corners and strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut with a grinder, then the slots are brought manually to the desired size.
The next brick row is laid.
A fireplace grate is laid on a refractory brick along with a brick row.
The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.
The firebox of the new stove with a fireplace is ready.
Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed over the furnace furnace.
The body of the stove is built.
Creating a chimney
The place left under the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.
Brick chimney wells are being laid.
Soot cleaners are mounted above the furnace roof.
The wells are again divided, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.
After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space related to the chimney remains empty.
The cornice of the body is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.
The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and exits at the top left. The final separation of the wells is closed with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.
Two chimneys stretch to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires a separate damper.
Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is mounted here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. In order to save money and not build a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will go through it like a snake, having time to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of \u200b\u200bthe second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 bricks.
A hole for the stove chimney is carefully sawn out in the roof.
Before bringing the chimney to the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.
If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out above the ridge by at least 0.5 meters. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed, equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke up.
Even a small oven in the house is a cosiness and comfort. Larger stoves require more skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the above method.
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Brick heating stoves are still very popular. You can make them yourself if you wish. In order to facilitate the work, drawings of brick ovens have been created. Following the instructions and recommendations on, you can build structures such as in the photo.
Any oven consists of the following parts:
- base (does not connect to the foundation of the building);
- the ash pan ensures the flow of air into the combustion chamber, accumulates ash, which can later be removed through a special door;
- the firebox, separated from the ash pan by a grate (grate or rods), has a door for loading fuel, firewood burns in it;
- a chimney is a pipe through which combustion products are discharged;
- smoke circulations (their labyrinth circuits are needed to absorb heat from hot smoke).
Brick ovens have such characteristics as traction, power, efficiency, type of fuel used. The draft depends not only on the height of the chimney, but also on the section, the quality of the masonry. Ready schemes heating stoves bricks save craftsmen from carrying out complex calculations (more details: "").
Russian oven: drawings of brick ovens
Previously, such designs were found in every home, but now they are already a rarity. Despite this, the Russian stove can successfully fit into the interior of the room. They are also not only a heating device - they also have a hob.For laying the furnace, the following materials will be required:
- solid red brick - 1610 pieces;
- a view for a valve measuring 0.3x0.3 meters - 2 pieces;
- dry clay mortar in dissolved form;
- samovar 14x14 centimeters - 1 piece;
- damper 43x34 centimeters - 1 piece. See also: "".
The pipe of the Russian stove is traditionally laid out of brick, however modern technologies make it possible to install a round structure of good tightness with safe and convenient passage through floors and roofs (read also: "").
To work, you will need the following tools:
- trowel - for laying and leveling the solution;
- pickaxe - a multifunctional hammer with a blade located perpendicular to the axis of the handle. At its other end is a square windshield;
- bubble level for masonry and hydraulic for the first row;
- rule - serves to align the bricks of each row;
- plumb lines - one of them must be permanently attached to the axis of the chimney (overlap), and with the help of the second, the verticality of the corners is checked;
- brush - needed for grouting;
- cord - it is pulled over each row of masonry.
- Cooking chamber. For masonry it is used on 3/4 ground off corner brick with locks.
- Under. From the back there is a slope, for the purpose of which the space is covered with sand, on which the brick is laid.
- Covering the bottom. The structure is covered with bricks along bars, corners or sheet blanks.
- Vault with lock. In some cases a central lock is used, in others the last two symmetrical bricks are used.
- Rows to the lower vault. The laying of a brick oven is carried out in the usual way, in the future, a vault template assembled from chipboard or springs cut from wood is installed on top of it.
- Wells. They are tied rows, in which they leave a hole leading to the undercook.
- Underbay. Bricks are laid on foundation mortar, hollow stones are not allowed.
- Code VK. For convenience, the bricks are cut to a wedge shape.
- Covering the channel above the samovar. It is solid, only whole stones are used.
- Holes are reduced above the shestak. The brick is cut in accordance with the drawing.
- Wall alignment. At the same time, the overtube is reduced, the channel of the samovar is laid.
- Installation of a samovar. The structure is closed with a separate cover.
- View installation. To build in the structure, two rows are laid.
- Chimney. The height of the pipe from the bottom to the top must be at least 5 meters. The upper rows form a visor that prevents precipitation from entering the chimney.
Buslaevskaya oven: projects
The design has a built-in hood. The oven is different small size. It is ideal for any private home, as it allows not only to heat the premises, but also to cook food. Despite its compact size, the stove heats spacious rooms well, so there are ready-made ones.Special schemes for laying brick ovens will help you get the job done without complicated calculations.
For installation, you will need the following materials:
- doors - fireboxes (0.2x0.25 meters), VK (0.39x0.5 meters), blower (0.14x0.14 meters);
- refractory - 43 pieces;
- solid brick - 382 pieces;
- oven-cabinet 28x33x50 cm;
- cast iron stove 0.7x0.4 meters with burners (removable rings different diameter);
- valves - steam exhaust (12x13 centimeters) and smoke (12x25 centimeters);
- grate - grate 30x20 centimeters;
- corner - three blanks of equal-shelf rolled products 1 meter long and 45x45 millimeters in size;
- steel - a piece of 0.3x0.28 meters;
- strip - 4 pieces of meter (4 millimeters), 0.25 meters (2 millimeters), 0.35 meters (3 millimeters);
- cast iron stove - 0.4 x0.25 meters; 40x15 centimeters.
- Complete row.
- The door blew.
- Window opening for cleaning.
- The bottom of the oven is laid out from refractory, three sides are lined with iron.
- Installation of the furnace door, grate, under the furnace - refractory, cleaning cover, blower door.
- DS installation.
- Laying refractory on the edge around the LH.
- Laying according to the scheme.
- The upper coating of the oven with clay (1 centimeter) is carried out, the DT overlaps, a stove with burners is attached.
- Installation of smoke circulation with cleaning windows, the plate is not laid.In the future, the brick is placed on the edge.
- Cleaning is covered, channels are created, 25 cm strips are laid.
- The cleanings are finished, the fixing wire is embedded.
- The cap is installed.
- Installation of the ceiling VK, while the hoods remain.
- The stoves are laid out according to the scheme.
- The small stove ends with sheet iron, the laying is carried out according to.
- A cleaning hole of a large stove is laid out, the edges of the side walls of the channels are crimped.
- Protrusion masonry.
- The protrusions are duplicated and the corner is mounted.
- The chimney of the BP overlaps similarly to the 19th row.
- A three-row neck is made, the size of the chimney is reduced to a section of 26x13 centimeters for the top valve.
- A chimney with grooves is created on this and subsequent rows.
Sauna stove ordering: schemes
Projects of brick heating stoves show the location of fireclay and clay bricks in each row. Explanations for the order:1, 2 row. A blower is created (window for air supply), dressing is used.
3. A window is left for the main chimney.
4. A damper, an ash pan door are installed.
5. A grate, a firebox are mounted, and a refractory is subsequently laid on them.
6. The shape of the chimney and firebox is repeated, doors are installed.
7-11 rows. The firebox ends on the 11th row.
12-14 rows. The heater box is installed.
15-16. The mine expands and halves by analogy with 6 next.
18. The cleaning door is installed.
22.23. The shafts are combined, while the edges of the brick are ground off. Then the shaft above the heater is completely blocked, only the chimney remains.
Frame structures can facilitate the installation process. In this case, the brick is present only in the outer walls, and all internal elements are welded from metal. This can speed up the process of laying the furnace. See also: "".
Furnaces often serve as interior decoration, so they are lined with clinker, tiles, tiles. The diagonals in the first row are carefully measured, and a plumb line is hung in the center of the chimney, which is removed on the last rows of the pipe. Also, the diagonals are controlled every 4 rows, and on each row a cord is pulled when laying, which is checked by the rule.
Instead of a cement-sand mortar, it is recommended to use clay, regardless of the type of furnace being built. Ready-made dry mortars significantly save time spent on clay preparation. So that the composition does not dry quickly, the brick must be moistened with water before laying.
Operating costs will be less if there are no rectangular ledges inside the structure. To this end, when creating an overlap (ledge), the stone is tried on without mortar, the line of overlap is outlined, and the excess material is cut off with a grinder. Internal seams during laying are regularly monitored, and excess mortar is removed from time to time. The pipe is cleaned after completion of work.
Brick ovens are laid out from several materials:
- outer cladding;
- masonry bricks (main structure);
- fireclay - refractory material lay out places exposed to strong heat (furnace, under);
- brick with high density edges - located inside the furnace.
The furnace seam should be no more than 5 millimeters for clay bricks, and 3 millimeters for refractory. It is forbidden to correct already laid bricks: the element is removed, the solution is cleaned, and then laid new stone. The foundation of a house or a bath must be removed from the base of the furnace by at least 5 centimeters, taking into account that in order to reduce heaving between them, the soil is replaced with sand. During construction sauna stove with the exit of the firebox into the dressing room, it is impossible to embed the masonry in the frame partition, log house. The front wall of the structure is enlarged, joined with wooden elements and the gaps are sealed with non-combustible material (basalt wool is usually used). See also: "".
truss system, overlap and self wooden house are fire hazardous. Therefore, when passing the furnace through these elements, it is necessary to follow the norms of SNiP.
In the ceilings, cuttings of the following types are created:
- brick thickening (material consumption is large, the design does not look too beautiful);
- wooden box with filling from non-combustible materials (expanded clay, sand, basalt wool);
- sandwich of two pipes with internal heat-insulating material.
Drawings of brick ovens in the video with a good example of construction:
