The best methods for soil disinfection in a greenhouse and the rules for restoring beneficial flora. How to treat the soil, the earth? Diseases, diseases, soil treatment. Fertility restoration. Reasons for fertility decline How to disinfect the soil in the garden

Every gardener knows that neither flower nor vegetable crops. It takes a lot of effort to grow a rich and healthy crop. The first agrotechnical stage in the cultivation of any cultivated plants is proper preparation soil in which they will grow, bloom and bear fruit. In this work, several important stages can be distinguished: digging, improving the structure, fertilizing and disinfecting. Let's talk about each in more detail.

Digging up the soil

This first operation to prepare the beds for planting vegetable or flower crops is best done in the fall, when deep processing is necessary (up to 50 cm). Such manipulations enrich the soil with oxygen, contribute to better moistening of the ridges by autumn rains and during spring snowmelt, and also help to get rid of some of the pests that die from winter frosts or from lack of air, being close to the surface or, conversely, falling to a great depth as a result overturning of earth layers. During autumn digging, clods should not be broken. So the earth freezes better and is partially freed from pests and weed seeds. In addition, with deep processing, stones and roots of weeds are necessarily removed.

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After the snow melts, even the soil dug up since autumn always settles and compacts a little. Therefore, in the spring it is necessary to carry out a second, no longer so deep, digging or just loosening, if the soil is light enough.

If in the fall you did not have time to dig up the site, then spring digging is mandatory and is carried out after the soil dries out. You can determine the right moment empirically. To do this, a lump of earth is tightly squeezed in the hand. If, after compression, the soil retains its shape and does not crumble, it means that its humidity is still high and it is too early to think about digging. But this procedure should not be delayed, since digging too dry soil will lead to its complete dehydration. Deep processing during this period can no longer be carried out, and there is no special point in this. Limit yourself to a depth of about half or 2/3 of the bayonet of a shovel.

Improvement of the structural composition

In the process of digging the soil, both in autumn and in spring, it is necessary to carry out a simultaneous restructuring of the soil, if necessary. Often the acidity level and structural composition of the soil on the site do not meet the requirements necessary for the successful cultivation of vegetables, flowers and herbs.

With increased acidity, the area is alkalized to normal pH values. This is done by adding substances such as dolomite flour, fluff lime or ground chalk. Well reduces the acid reaction and at the same time enriches the soil with mineral salts wood ash. The required amount of lime composition is determined depending on the pH level and what kind of soil you want to end up with: slightly acidic or neutral. The last parameter depends on the preferences of a particular culture.

To improve the structure of the soil, certain additives are also needed, depending on its initial characteristics. For example, heavy clay soils need to be loosened with sand, humus and peat. Peat bogs (especially raised bogs) need soddy soil, sand and compost to increase the moisture permeability. Sands also require turf land, as well as any kind of organic matter, from manure to sawdust, to increase moisture capacity.

soil fertilization

Measures to improve soil fertility are carried out simultaneously with its digging. During the autumn digging, organic fertilizers are usually applied. It can be manure, humus or compost. Fertilizer is scattered over the site, then dug up shallowly, and then a deeper treatment is carried out.

The spring period is usually the most suitable for the introduction of mineral supplements (superphosphate, urea, nitrophoska, etc.). It is also advisable to distribute it over the surface of the bed before digging, since after this process the fertilizer gets deep into the soil, which brings it closer to the root system of future plants and makes absorption easier and faster. The composition of such fertilizers depends on the requirements of a particular crop and the type of soil: peat, clay, sand, etc. They should almost always contain three main components in different proportions: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Soil disinfection

It is very important to treat the site from pathogenic bacteria and pests before planting seedlings. There are four groups of methods for this.

• The use of elevated temperatures. This method is quite effective for the destruction of pathogens of various diseases and harmful insects. There are two ways to implement heat treatment, which are quite effective at stable positive air temperatures, that is, at the end of April or May. The first is to spill the prepared area with boiling water. The second method consists in densely covering the beds for 3–4 days with several layers of plastic wrap. In sunny weather, under such a shelter, provided that it is completely sealed, the temperature can rise to 70-80 ° C.
• Safe for health folk remedies. Many adherents of organic farming practice the treatment of ridges from diseases and pests using solutions of various natural disinfectants. This can be an aqueous solution of coniferous concentrate, an infusion of tobacco dust, as well as other infusions and decoctions of plants with insecticidal properties (onion, garlic, wormwood, and others). Green manure plants (mustard, rapeseed, rye, oats and others) perfectly enrich the soil and fight diseases and pests, which can be sown on the site both before winter and in early spring before planting the main crop. Their seedlings are cut and sent to compost or buried in the soil during spring digging.
• It is also possible to improve the soil with special biological preparations containing effective microorganisms (EM preparations). Concentrates of yeast, fermenting fungi and various bacteria, after being introduced into the soil, heal the microflora, promote the decomposition of organic fertilizers and protect plants from a variety of ailments. Such preparations (for example, "Gumat EM" or "Baikal") can be purchased at specialized stores or even prepared by yourself. When cultivating the soil with solutions of EM preparations, it should be remembered that when low temperatures they will not work, as beneficial microorganisms fall into a state similar to suspended animation. have a negative effect on them and Sun rays, therefore, carry out work in cloudy and warm weather 2-3 weeks before sowing, so that the soil has time to fill with beneficial microflora.
• Chemical preparations are not so harmless, but with serious lesions certain diseases and pests are difficult to do without. If you decide to use fungicides and insecticides, then choose formulations with the lowest level of toxicity, for example, Fitosporin-M, Gamair or Alirin-B biological products. Much less desirable, but sometimes it is necessary to treat with universal insecticides that save almost any pests (for example, Aktara). It is useful to treat with systemic antifungal drugs such as "Fundazol".

Improper use of the soil over time leads to the accumulation of pathogenic microorganisms in the root layer, which lead to plant disease and crop loss.

Fungal infections (late blight, rhizoctoniosis, scab, alternariosis, rot) cause the greatest harm to garden crops, which reduce the yield by 50-100%. Gardeners often note that common measures to protect plants from diseases do not bring the expected results. Sometimes a fungal infection can completely destroy living plants in 1-3 days. One of the reasons for such epiphytotic outbreaks is the high infectious background of the soil. Therefore, the earth needs competent processing and disinfection.

Soil disinfection methods

In protected ground (in a greenhouse or container), it is easier to perform disinfection measures. And in open ground it is almost impossible to completely destroy the sources of infection, but even a novice gardener is quite capable of improving the soil.

Techniques for soil disinfection from fungal infections can be divided into:

agrotechnical;biological;chemical.Agrotechnical tillage

The garden should be divided into narrow beds (1.5-2 m). This will allow them to be processed more thoroughly and aerated, since in dense plantings, where it is humid and warm, mushroom mycelium develops very quickly.

In addition, crop rotation (crop rotation) must be observed. The same culture can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 3-5 years. During this period, the mycelium dies.

Crops susceptible to fungal infections are best planted after onions, garlic, cabbage, legumes. Solanaceae (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers) cannot be planted after their own kind - solanaceous. For planting, you need to use healthy material that is resistant to fungal infections, and sowing should be carried out with disinfected seeds.

Also, the affected tops should be carefully removed from the plots and burned immediately.

The remains of infected plants should never be buried in the soil or placed in compost heaps.

Do not overfeed plants with nitrogen. The applied fertilizers must be balanced - N:P:K=1:1.5:1.5.

Biological tillage

On small plot it is undesirable to use chemicals. It is better to give preference to substances that contain beneficial microorganisms that are safe for humans, animals, insects and other fauna.

The most effective are the working solutions of preparations Baikal EM-1, Baikal EM-5, introduced into the soil 2-3 weeks before the onset of autumn frosts. Microorganisms suppress the development of phytopathogens, heal the soil.

You can also use ready-made biological fungicides Bactofit, Trichodermin, Planzir, Alirin B, Fitosporin or Fitocid M and others. After autumn digging, the biofungicide must be added to upper layer soil (5-10 cm thick). In the spring (after the snow melts and the onset of stable warm weather), the tillage should be repeated.

Systematic soil disinfection and treatment of plants with antifungal biological products will help cleanse the earth of infection, protect plants from diseases, and your body from poisoning

Chemical tillage

If biological preparations are not effective enough, chemicals cannot be dispensed with. Choose those on the packaging that indicate hazard class 3-4.

In autumn, the soil can be treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. In the spring (in April in dry weather), a 4% solution of copper oxychloride, or a 2% solution of Oxychoma, should be added to the topsoil (to a depth of 5-10 cm). Directly when planting in the wells, you can add Quadris, Bravo, Hom and other drugs (according to the instructions). But keep in mind: they will destroy not only pathogenic, but also beneficial microflora.

Thus, only complex measures will help to thoroughly disinfect the soil on the site and prevent the development of fungal infections. Follow these recommendations every year - and your garden crops will produce a rich harvest of healthy fruits.

By autumn, as a rule, a fairly large number of pathogens of fungal diseases accumulate in the soil. Often this is facilitated by adverse weather conditions - cold summer, abundance of rain, fog. On strawberries it is gray rot; on berry bushes (gooseberries, raspberries, currants) are powdery mildew; on tomatoes, on potatoes it is late blight. Moreover, even greenhouses are not a salvation, since harmful viruses and bacteria penetrate everywhere with the air.

As a result, the soil in the garden necessarily needs to be disinfected. The question is how and with what to do it.

Preparations for soil disinfection

Soil disinfection can be carried out different types preparations - biological and chemical. Let's look at them in more detail.

Biologicals

Trichoplant

Developed on the basis of the Trichoderma fungus, which is a natural enemy of pathogenic microbes. When it is introduced into the soil, the pathogens of those diseases that have settled in the soil and are going to winter there are killed.

When to process

Trichoplant treatment can be done without waiting for the entire crop to be harvested. This is especially true in a greenhouse, where, for example, tomatoes can be until the end of September. This drug can be safely applied even to growing plants.

Also, "Trichoplant" reduces the toxic load on plants, helps them to better absorb nutrients. In addition to tillage, it is used for soaking seeds, for treating the root system of seedlings, and in many other places.

How to apply

How to use is indicated in the instructions for the drug on the label. For tillage, 100-150 ml should be diluted in 10 liters of water. Then with this solution you can immediately shed the soil in the garden from the watering can.

Too abundantly water every bush and every square meter no need. Remember that this is not watering plants, but applying the drug. But after making "Trichoplant" it will be good to spill everything with plain water. This is necessary so that Trichoderma spores penetrate the soil better and deeper.

More economically, the drug can be used if you use a sprayer, and not a watering can. Then you can literally spray the ground, and not water it.

After Trichoplant is introduced into the soil, microorganisms must be provided there good conditions, namely:

• humidity,
• abundance of air.

Therefore, it is good to use mulch on top, which will provide these conditions - moisture will not evaporate, and a crust will not form.

Where to apply

"Trichoplant" can also disinfect the soil in greenhouses with any crops (tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, peppers), in the garden on open ground - planting strawberries, under berry bushes, etc. That is, absolutely everywhere where pathogens can be fungal diseases.

"Trichocin"

An analogue of "Trichoplan", only in powder form, is the drug "Trichocin". It should be used in the same way as the first remedy, so we will not dwell on this issue in detail. Read the instructions carefully and act in accordance with them.

"Fitosporin"

Another biological agent for soil disinfection is Fitosporin. It is developed on the basis of hay bacillus, which feeds on spores of pathogenic fungi, thereby ridding the soil of this scourge.

Phytosporin - a biological agent for soil disinfection in autumn

How to handle

It is better to dig up the surface to be treated beforehand. Thus, we will raise up the pests and pathogens, which by the autumn have gone to the depths for wintering.

The consumption of "Fitosporin" is greater than that of the same "Trichoplant". It is necessary to water about 10 liters of solution per square meter of soil. But the concentration of "Fitosporin" in the finished solution is less.

"Pharmaiod"

A good preparation for disinfecting the soil in the fall in the garden is considered "Pharmaiod". Many gardeners practice the use of alcohol tinctures of iodine, but we do not recommend doing this. If you make a mistake with the concentration, you can easily burn your crops. In addition, iodine alcohol tincture is not absorbed by plants and is unlikely to be able to help them with anything.

Therefore, we are talking about Farmayode. This is the only drug that is prepared on the basis of a water-polymer suspension, and it just contains iodine in the form absorbed by plants.

Where to use

This drug can be used to protect plants from late blight (tomatoes and potatoes), from maneliosis (stone fruit and pome fruit crops). That is, the spectrum of action of the drug is very wide. Moreover, the drug suppresses viruses. Therefore, it can be used with 100% efficiency.

We mentioned this drug in this article, since Farmayod can successfully disinfect the soil both in greenhouses and open spaces.

Chemicals

In addition to biological, in the fall the soil is disinfected with chemical preparations. These include iron and copper sulfate, HOM, Oxyhom, Bordeaux mixture.

It is necessary to treat the soil with chemicals already when it is cold, after harvesting the entire crop. Biological agents will no longer work at this time. The same hay stick is viable at temperatures above +20 degrees.

inkstone

Let us dwell in more detail on iron sulfate. This drug has a very wide spectrum of action. With its help, they fight many diseases, in particular, fungal diseases, lichens, mosses. They can disinfect the soil around plants, trees.

The preparation contains up to 50% of trace elements of iron, which helps a lot in the fight against chlorosis (lack of iron in the plant).

Soil disinfection in the fall is done for digging. Approximately 1 kg of iron sulfate is applied per 10 sq.m. In addition to the function of destroying pathogenic microbes, during the winter it will be processed and take a form that is well absorbed by plants to saturate them with iron.

Other drugs

Along with iron sulphate, autumn soil disinfection in the garden can be done using blue vitriol and 3% Bordeaux mixture. The use of these funds will be a good prophylactic against many fungal and infectious diseases, such as:

• scab,
• powdery mildew,
• gray mold,
• purple spotting,
• coccomycosis and others.

It is desirable for them to process not only the soil, but also fruit trees.

In contact with

The soil is the most important part of any garden or vegetable garden. To grow a large crop, you need to regularly take care of the condition of the soil on your land. A very important period for such activities is autumn. After harvesting, you need to prepare the soil for cold weather, prevent infection with various diseases and pests.

How to cultivate the soil in spring, what means to use, how to properly cultivate the soil? These questions are of interest to all gardeners and gardeners. It is important to choose the right period of time, use the right tools. Observing special rules, your harvest will be the envy of all the neighbors.

Possible soil problems in autumn

Regular care of the soil will help to overcome these problems, especially in the autumn season.

See an overview of the most effective means from, and also find out the rules for their use.

Preparation for tillage consists of several points:

• against uninvited large guests (, hares,) carry out hilling bushes, wrapping tree pillars;
• burn all garden debris, fallen leaves;
• cut dried branches, "top" shoots;
• whitewash the trunks;
• it is recommended to lay out simple traps for rodents;
• treat trees and shrubs with special chemicals against diseases and pests. So you can collect a rich and high-quality harvest in the future.

Loosening the top layer of soil

Do the manipulations after harvesting, removing organic residues from the land, loosen the beds by four centimeters. By doing this, you will remove the soil crust. Carry out activities before the onset of the first cold weather. Loosening the soil promotes the growth of weeds, they will grow in the fall, after digging, the weed seedlings will die, thereby reducing the time for weeding next spring.

Digging the soil

Before starting the manipulation, make sure that your soil is heavy clay, sandy crumbly soil does not need to be dug up. Such manipulations have a positive effect on clay soil: voids are formed in it that will fill the air. The lack of oxygen negatively affects the future harvest.

Fertilizers and pest control

Having carefully prepared the soil for autumn processing, you can begin to choose the right tool. What fertilizers are recommended to be applied to the soil in the fall? Let's figure it out.

Manure

Many gardeners know this tool, they often use it in the autumn period. If there is nowhere to compost, then store the substance, then it is recommended to purchase it in the fall, then immediately apply it to the soil. The rest is recommended to lay for maturation. It is allowed to introduce fresh manure in the autumn period for planting cucumbers, celery, late cabbage, pumpkin crops. If the manure includes sawdust, other organic compounds, then you will get an excellent result only after a year, so add nitrogen supplements for the desired effect.

Why does manure need to be applied in the fall? The substance is saturated with weeds, they will rise to the main planting, you can easily remove them while loosening the soil. In autumn, manure is saturated with moisture, mixes well with the soil.

Manure is applied during soil loosening for perennial fruit crops, raspberries, strawberries, all varieties of apples. Carry out manipulations immediately after harvesting.

Peat

Ash

It is a nitrogen fertilizer, the second name is urea. The substance releases nitrogen, binds the nitrogen already present in the soil, and retains it until spring. You can get the desired result only by covering the ground, otherwise the urea will have time to evaporate. In autumn, preferably in parallel with phosphorus. For such purposes, a special mixture is used: combine one hundred grams of chalk with a kilogram of superphosphate, three parts of urea are added to one part of this product. Thoroughly mix the mineral fertilizer, apply at the rate of 150 grams of the finished mixture per square meter of soil.

Mulching

In a simple way, such manipulations mean saturation of the soil with organic matter. Gardeners use as mulch:

• organic compounds: needles, sawdust, hay, bark, even shredded waste paper (cardboard, paper);
• inorganic substances: polypropylene fibers, expanded clay, zeolite.

A thin layer of mulch is recommended to cover the beds that are free, those that are occupied perennials. Sometimes organic and inorganic compounds are used simultaneously, the recommended mulch thickness is up to seven centimeters. Such manipulations protect the soil from certain pests, for example, various diseases.

Important! Keep in mind that when using tops, there should be no seeds. Zealous with needles is also not recommended, it is fraught with an increase in soil acidity. Everything should be in moderation.

green manure plants

Commonly referred to as green manure. They designed to perform several important functions:

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Green manure plants include:

• legumes,
• clover,
• mustard,
• oats,
• rye,
• sunflower,
• buckwheat.

It is recommended to plant them precisely in the autumn period, so that the green mass has time to form before frost, but they will grow for several more weeks in the spring. If the weather is warm in autumn, then such plants can grow strongly, start buds. Before they form, cut off the ovaries, preventing the presence of buds.

EM technology (use of microorganisms)

Compost and humus are excellent fertilizers, but they will help to saturate the soil with useful minerals, protect against diseases, and pests. modern technologies. Now there is no need to guess whether the process of decay is proceeding correctly, whether the amount of beneficial substances into the ground. After all, you can improve the processing of organic compounds by adding ready-made preparations.

Effective microorganisms include over 80 strains of beneficial microbes. They have a beneficial effect on the decomposition of mulch, increase the fertility of the earth, helping to destroy pests, pathogens of various plant ailments. EOs inhibit the development of harmful bacteria, increasing plant resistance to various pests and diseases.

Or stay tuned

It would seem that potting soil is much easier to improve and disinfect than in a garden bed - the volume is small, you can control literally every centimeter of the earth. It’s just worth a little guessing with the proportions and that’s all, goodbye to the harvest. In the open ground, you can sow green manure, and make smelly manure, and spill it with boiling water, and potassium permanganate - even if you mess up a little, the soil will recover. With potted soil there is no margin for error...

Soil disinfection- It's not for the lazy. But if you do not take at least elementary measures, you can ruin all your work. Where does the earth come from? Often, this is waste soil from greenhouses, sifted and enriched with peat, mineral fertilizer and ballast fillers. Often, unrecognizable herbs sprout from it, but this can be survived ... And this soil is also "enriched" with pathogenic bacteria, mold spores, aphid larvae and other byaka.

Potted soil can be disinfected in a number of ways, which will be discussed in this article.

Soil calcination. Soil sterilization

My grandfather, a winegrower and gardener with 50 years of experience, seedling soil in 3 stages: calcination and adding ash and yeast to the soil. He simply fries the garden soil in a huge frying pan, stirring occasionally and moistening it with a spray bottle. A three-liter jar of soil is mixed with a teaspoon (with a slide), then yeast is added. described in detail what's what about the use of ordinary yeast for the needs of a vegetable garden on the windowsill. Of course, this takes precious time, but it guarantees the absence of fungi in the soil, and the death of any living creatures. Ash is a fertilizer and an additional sterilizer, and yeast colonizes the soil with its colonies and helps the plant to feed, enrich with nitrogen. This method is not the only one, and not the most convenient.

Another option roasting in the oven(suitable for a small amount of soil): we fall asleep wet earth in a baking sleeve. We bake 40 minutes at 180 degrees. I think the idea is great.

Steaming the soil in a water bath

We put a sieve on a pot of boiling water, lay a layer of gauze, pour in the earth and cover with a lid. You can sometimes stir the soil. The procedure lasts from 20 minutes to 1.5 hours, depending on the amount of soil. After steaming, the soil should breathe for a while. In warm soil, add yeast or any available bacterial fertilizer. Effectively steam the earth in several passes in small portions.

Biological soil disinfection with fungicides

The most popular biological fungicides: Fitosporin, Barrier, Barrier, Fitop, Integral, Bactofit, Agate, Planzir, Alirin B, Trichodermin. All of them non-chemically affect fungi and pathogenic bacteria - the "right" bacteria. For the first time, I used the Ukrainian analogue of Fitosporin - Phytocid M. I planted seeds of mini-tomatoes in the soil treated by him. In general, biological fungicides are praised by flower growers. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions. It is written on the package that the diluted Phytocide should be stored for no more than a day, but I did it three-liter jar and I have been watering all my plants with this solution for the second week. Watercress is delighted with such watering, I have never had such lush harvests!

Chemical disinfection of the soil

Chemical fungicides should be written about, but not used. At least for our gardens on the windowsill. I will write only about those drugs that have a hazard class 4 (low-hazard substance).

Albite. The composition contains terpene acids, an extract from soil bacteria and trace elements. Available in the form of a paste. Does not allow root rot, powdery mildew, brown rot, and other dirty tricks to develop. It is considered a biological fungicide with a chemical action.

Potassium permanganate(potassium permanganate). A long-known, but ineffective way of disinfecting the soil. It also becomes a potash fertilizer.

There are a great many such drugs, but they hardly suit us.

copper sulfate, iron sulfate. Disinfect and at the same time inhibit the growth of plants. We don't fit.

And about the last remedy for today - mustard powder! Effective against fungi, bacteria, viruses, thrips, nematodes. Loosens the soil, stimulates plant growth. Apply to the soil as follows: for 5 liters of soil, a tablespoon of mustard powder. Combine with nitrogen fertilizer.

Update 11/29/2016

Since the writing of this article, I have become much more attentive to the sources of information on the basis of which I make the material. Despite the fact that the disinfection of potted soil is traditional for the post-Soviet countries, this is not practiced anywhere else. The introduction of biofertilizers with effective microorganisms (Baikal, Fitosporin, etc.) has no proven effectiveness in field conditions, although from my own experience (biased) there is a result. According to some data, described in the article about EO preparations, home-made infusions with effective microorganisms are better than industrial mixtures (infusions with banana peel, sauerkraut juice, yeast).