Floors in a wooden house: types and designs of floors in a private house, the laying process. Various floor designs in a private house or cottage How to make wooden floors in a private house

Wooden flooring is a classic solution in construction and renovation. No modern composite materials will not replace home warmth and ecological cleanliness of wood. Despite the fact that wood loses to concrete or composites in terms of strength and reliability, its natural attractiveness will be popular with builders for a long time to come. Floor device in wooden house worked out by many generations, so it should not cause any problems even for not very experienced craftsmen.

It is possible to arrange the floor in a wooden structure using various technologies. Consider the procedure for performing work, the materials, tools and equipment used in this case.

The scheme of the floor in a house made of wood on pillars

Building a floor of this design is advisable if you do not intend to lay support or load-bearing beams in the walls of your house for building a floor. In this case, the floor will be constructed according to a free "floating" scheme and will not be connected in any way with the external walls of the building. Also, this floor design is used in the construction of floors in wooden buildings on soils with a high level of soil water.

Flooring in a wooden house of this design can be divided into two types.

Single flooring made of wooden planks . This type of floor is the easiest to build and further use and repair. It is recommended to use this design in small cottages in summer cottages built for seasonal use.
double floor. This type of floor is built in buildings designed for year-round use. When using this technology, two floorings are built: black and fine, in the interval between them insulation from heat loss and moisture penetration is placed.

The technology of building a floor in houses made of wooden materials on supports

Step 1. Excavate the ground in your subfloor space. The pit must be dug more than half a meter deep from the lower level of the planned floor. In a dug pit, place a pillow of crushed stone, gravel or river sand cleaned of organic matter. It is recommended that the top edge of the cushion rise above the ground level in the area near the foundation by about 20 centimeters.

Step 2 Support pillars for the floor can be formed from red burnt bricks. So, if you plan to lay the floor on supports 25 centimeters high, then its optimal width will be 1.5 bricks. With a support height of more than 25 centimeters, the pillar is placed in two bricks.

There are other technologies for installing supports. For example, you can place monolithic concrete pillars underground. In this case, the concrete mortar is poured into a pre-built wooden formwork, inside which a metal frame of reinforcement is mounted.

Concrete mortar can also be poured into vertically installed sections of asbestos-cement pipes deepened into a gravel cushion, inside which a frame of reinforcement is also placed.

In any case, when choosing a technology for erecting support pillars, it is necessary to pay attention to their uniform upper level. The best control device is a laser level or level. The distance between the pillars-supports horizontally and vertically is about a meter.

Step 3 A layer of waterproofing is laid on each pillar-support. The easiest way to do this is to use two combined layers of sheet insulation, such as roofing felt.

roll waterproofing

Step 4.A wooden plate 30 mm thick is placed on the waterproofing layer.

Step 5.Lag beams are laid on the support pillars. Usually they are built from a thick wooden beam, cut down from coniferous wood and treated with an antiseptic. The connection points of the lag should fall on the pillars. During construction, control the horizontal position of the upper surface of the log. You can adjust the position of the lag with the help of counter wedges. Depending on the width of the wooden boards used in the construction of the floor, the distance between adjacent logs can vary in the range of 60-80 cm.

Step 6.A wooden flooring is laid on the laid logs. To create an aesthetic appearance, it is better to lay the wooden floor boards parallel to the directions of the light falling from the windows of the room. The first board is laid with a gap of up to 15 mm from the wall. Then this space will be closed with a plinth, but the gap will ensure the movement of air into the underground space.

Step 7.Solid wood boards are fastened to joists with nails. The minimum length of the connecting nail should be twice the thickness of the board. Nails are hammered under a slope so that the axis of rotation of the nail does not coincide with the plane of the interface between the board and the supporting log. Optimal Angle tilt - 30-45 degrees to the vertical. Nail heads are completely sunk into the board by blows from the sharp side of the hammer. Then, after the puttying and painting process, the nail heads will disappear from view.

We nail the boards with nails at an acute angle

Step 8.A plinth rail is nailed over the boards along the perimeter of the walls. Near the two opposite walls of the room, a temporary plinth is mounted, which is fixed a couple of centimeters from the walls. The slots will provide ventilation until the final drying of the array of boards, and then they will be closed with a permanent baseboard.

Please note that in the event that a room with a floor on concrete or brick pillars will not be heated in winter time, the supports can “lead” and the geometry of the wooden floor structure will be broken. A layer of slag can give additional thermal insulation to the underground space, but there must be a space of at least 5 centimeters between its upper edge and the wooden floor to ensure ventilation.

How to Build a Single Plank Floor in a Wooden House

If, when building walls in a wooden house, you provided for the laying of support beams, then the most affordable way to build a floor would be to lay a single plank floor. Usually the gap between the support beams is at least a meter.

Logs for laying the floor are mounted on top of the support bars. For their construction, wooden bars with a side of 50-60 millimeters are used. The distance between the joists depends on the width of the tongue-and-groove board used for laying the floor:
- if you use a board with a thickness of 30 mm, then the distance between the lags should be no more than half a meter;
- if you use a grooved board with a thickness of 400 mm or more, then the optimal distance between the lags will be 50-60 centimeters.
When laying the lathing from the log, be sure to check the horizontalness of the upper level of the bars. It is advisable to use a laser or conventional building level for this, adjusting the height of the log with the help of counter wedges knocked under it.
Logs are fixed to the supporting beams by means of long nails or carpentry staples.

The plank floor of a single structure is laid directly on the logs. For laying the finishing floor in one layer, a tongue-and-groove board is used. Its fastening is traditional: the next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one, adjusted by tapping with a mallet, and then nailed to the log with a long nail that enters the body of the board at a slight slope. The heads of the nails are recessed into the body of the board. If you plan to place a finishing layer on the floor in one layer flooring- it is possible to use unedged boards.

Finished tongue and groove flooring is sanded and then varnished or painted. The finishing layer is laid on the rough floor layer. decorative coating such as linoleum.

This is a very fast and affordable way to build a floor in a wooden building. However, the thermal insulation of this design leaves much to be desired and in a house designed for year-round use, it is better to build a double floor structure.

We build a floor in two layers in a wooden structure

Unlike a single floor, a double floor consists of two layers: finishing and rough.

Step 1

Logs are mounted on the support bearing beams, to which cranial additional bars are nailed.

Step 2

On the cranial additional bars in the transverse direction, the boards of the rough layer of the flooring are nailed. You can use unedged softwood boards of various thicknesses (15-45 mm). Before laying the boards are treated with an antiseptic. The boards to be laid are tightly fitted to each other so that minimal gaps remain.

Step 3

A layer of vapor barrier made of durable polyethylene is laid on the rough flooring. Its stripes overlap.

Step 5

Logs are laid on the draft floor. Their height is selected depending on the required level of insulation (usually 50 mm).

Step 6

Between the lags is an insulating layer. The choice of material for insulation depends solely on your budget and preferences:

rolled mineral wool roll;
foamed polymer boards (for example, polystyrene foam);
a layer of backfill material, such as expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust;
underfloor heating piping system.

Step 7

Another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer. If you are building a warm water floor in the thickness of a wooden one, upper layer waterproofing is not used. When constructing a floor with passive thermal insulation, a gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left between the upper edge of the thermal insulation layer.

Step 8

Groove boards are laid on top of this entire “sandwich”. The technology for their installation has already been described above.

Step 9

During installation, ventilation holes with a cross section of about 5 centimeters are left in the corners of the room, which are closed with decorative grilles. The surface of the gratings rises above the floor by a couple of centimeters. This elevation protects the grate from moisture.

The underground is also ventilated through the windows in the basement walls. In winter, all types of ventilation windows are blocked.

floor board

Features of the construction of the floor on the first floor of wooden buildings

When arranging the floor on the lower first or basement floor wooden house over unheated basements there are certain features.

Cold floor located directly on the ground (no underground)

A cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground) is built if there is dry soil under the house and if the floor of the first floor of the building is high. The underground of such a floor consists of 4 layers:

compacted sand cushion;
dry, clean, calcined sand;
log (beams from coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), buried in a poured soil base and resting on recesses in the outer walls of the room;
single plank flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.

Insulated floor with unheated underground space

The procedure for the construction of an insulated floor with an unheated underground space

Placement in the underground of a pillow made of compacted sand cleaned of organic matter (thickness 10-15 cm).
Installation of support posts with a height of at least half a meter. Very simple and economical way installation of supports, concrete mortar will be poured into segments of vertically standing pipes with metal frame inside.
Laying a double layer of waterproofing on the surface of the supports.
Placement of wooden dies with a thickness of 30 mm.
Laying load-bearing beams.
In order to carry out thermal insulation of the floor using this technology, slats (about 15 mm in cross section) are nailed to the side ends of the log, on which a draft floor layer of cut unedged boards is laid.
A vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation are laid on the draft layer of the flooring (the level of the flooring is just below the finishing floor). On top of the beams, a plank floor or a covering of wood-based panels is laid.

Cold floor with heated underfloor space

A cold floor with a heated underground space is used in construction on soils with a low level of soil water. The technology of its installation coincides with the previous one, up to the installation stage of the subfloor. After installing the lag, a finishing floor is mounted on top of them without creating a heat-insulating layer.

Watch the instructional video to learn more about the construction steps.

Video - Floor device in a wooden house

Each of us dreams of building a spacious house, in solitude with nature. And of course this house must be made of natural and natural materials. The wooden house is perfect for a quiet and relaxing stay. When building a wooden house, the main thing is to pay special attention to the design of the floor.

In order not to disturb the harmony, beauty and naturalness, the floors should also be made of wood. Many people know that houses made of wood have a healing and beneficial effect.

The floor structure must be reliable and have effective protection from heat loss from the house. Today we will consider floor designs in a wooden house.

Floor characteristics

Regardless of what the house is built from, the floor must have the following characteristics:

It should also be noted that the load on the floor, first or basement floor should be calculated from an average value of 2100 Newtons per 1 square meter.

Floor types

For wooden houses, use the two most common types of floors, these are concrete and wood. Now we will analyze the pros and cons of each.

Concrete floor. The advantages include the speed of the process, and especially in the presence of a concrete mixer. An insignificant price, which is the cost of sand and cement.

The ability to do the work with your own hands, without professional skills. With all these pluses, we get a finished flat surface in a month, after the final drying of the concrete screed.

The disadvantages include a large mass of the floor, which puts pressure on the foundation. Not suitable for every type of foundation; it requires careful calculation of the load on the foundation and soil.

And secondly, since we have a house made of wood, the walls vibrate (narrowing - expanding), this has a bad effect on the concrete surface, stress zones, chips, cracks appear.

Wooden floor. The advantages include the fact that wood is an environmentally friendly material. The floors made of wood in a wooden house are harmony, naturalness and sophistication.

When performing work, no special devices are required. There are a few more disadvantages than concrete floors. The main disadvantage is the cost (high).

The second drawback is the complexity of the installation technology, assistants will be required. It may be necessary to involve specialists, and this is an additional cost. When laying a finished floor, it is difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Strict adherence to the technology of the floor installation process.

The device of a wooden floor in a wooden house

We have described the pros and cons of the two types of floors. With a concrete floor, everything is clear. Moreover, a wooden house should have a wooden floor.

Unedged board or sheets of plywood, chipboard, are usually used to equip the subfloor. And if used for arranging a finishing floor, then a decorative floor covering is placed on top of it.

Glued laminated timber or seam board is used as a finishing floor. After installation, paint or varnish.

Floor structures

The flooring is divided into two types.

The floor structure looks like this:

Draft floor.
Waterproofing.
Insulation.
Air bag.
Clean floor.
Decorative flooring.

Foundation preparation

Choosing a foundation is always a difficult and controversial choice. The pricing policy is different. Since a wooden house belongs to light buildings up to 14-17 tons, then the foundation should be selected accordingly.

Some put houses directly on the ground or add rubble with a layer of 10-20 cm. This is done in places where there is no groundwater, and the earth does not creep.

2 layers of waterproofing are laid out on the ground (roofing material, polyethylene film), then logs are laid. This type of foundation is suitable for small seasonal houses with a single floor.

The most common is of course the foundation of concrete. It can be of a tape type, a cheaper method, or filled in one piece (plate), a more expensive method.

The concrete foundation is usually reinforced with a reinforcing belt. This is a long-term and reliable foundation, both for a wooden house and a brick one.

The next option is the support columns. The site on which the house is going to stand is freed from the soil to a depth of about 50 cm. The pillow is formed due to a layer of sand and gravel.

Each layer should be approximately 20-30 cm. We ram everything carefully. Then we lay out columns of brick or asbestos pipes filled with concrete.

The pillars are placed around the perimeter and inside the house at intervals of 90-100 cm. Keeping one level. We lay waterproofing on the poles, then 3 cm board around the entire perimeter - this is the lining. Bars are placed on it.

And recently, pile foundations have become popular. Everyone just buys ready-made piles of a given diameter, they are screwed into the ground one level.

After that, a frame is built for the walls and floor. This type of foundation is ideal for places where close ground water or moving soil, since piles can be buried to different depths and make the foundation strong and reliable.

Single layer floor installation

The choice of foundation is yours. Supports, piles, soil or concrete surface on which I lay thick beams must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

It is advisable to buy bars from coniferous trees. As mentioned above, we process all wooden elements with special compounds.

Logs are usually laid on top of the bars at the locations of the supports, the main thing is to keep one level.

The distance between the lags should be chosen 60-80 cm if you have a floor board 4 cm thick or more. And if the thickness of the board is 3 cm, then the distance is best to choose 50-60 cm.

On the logs set at one level, we lay a wooden floor. We put the first board from the wall at a distance of 10-15 mm. This gap must be left for natural ventilation.

Subsequently, this hole will be closed with a plinth. For creating decorative beauty, floor boards are best laid parallel to the rays of light from the window. We use nails to fasten the boards.

Purchase nails, taking into account the fact that their length should be twice as long as the thickness of the boards. Drive nails at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Don't forget to wear your hats.

Then, when all the boards are fixed, we close up all the holes from the hats with wood putty. After the putty dries, you can start painting and varnishing. Installation of skirting boards is done around the entire perimeter.

On the opposite two walls, a permanent plinth is nailed, and on the other two opposite walls, which have gaps left, a temporary plinth is nailed with a gap of 10 mm from the wall. In 2-3 weeks, due to natural convection, the floor will dry out completely, and temporary skirting boards can be replaced with permanent ones.

As mentioned above, this type of floor is used in unheated, small houses. And in winter, the ground under the house freezes and the pillars are deformed, which directly affects the functionality of the floor.

To remove this effect as much as possible, the underground space is covered with slag, leaving 4-6 cm to the floor, for an air cushion.

Double floor device

Such a floor has the structure of a multi-layer cake. The design of the bars and the log remains as described above. Only in the lower part of the log we fill the bars along the entire length and on both sides.

These bars are called cranial. A draft floor is attached on top of these bars. The floor is usually made of unedged boards 2-4 cm thick. All wooden elements are necessarily processed with special means. Boards should be fastened with minimal gaps.

After the subfloor is fully assembled, a vapor barrier and waterproofing materials. Often this is a polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns.

But other materials can be used, such as parchment paper, roofing material and modern membrane films. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the seams are glued with construction tape.

Then a heater is placed on top of the waterproofing layer.. In the past, mixtures were actively used: clay + sawdust or clay + straw. Expanded clay has proven itself well, it is not eaten by rodents, it does not lose its shape and volume.

But in the age of high technology, the market offers a large selection of materials for insulation. Ecowool, foam plastic, isolon, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. This is not the whole list, but only those that are popular.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main difference is in price and features. The choice of insulation is up to you. After you have bought a heater, lay it between the lags.

We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, leaving 3-5 cm to the lower edge of the finished floor, as a natural ventilation of the subfloor.

If you provide for the presence of a "warm floor" system, then pipes or wires should be laid on top of the insulation. They should not be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

On top of this "pie" we lay the finishing floor. Tongue board - ideal for arranging a finished floor. The principle of assembling boards is similar to that of a laminate, each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the previous one, and fastening takes place with nails at an angle.

If in the first method we talked about the ventilation gap, which is located along the walls, then here we will talk about the ventilation gap, which is located in two opposite corners of the room.

These gaps can be in the form of a square, a circle about 5 cm in size. After the floor is covered with all the boards, the ventilation gaps are decorated with gratings.

The gratings must be taken out by 5 mm. above floor level so that liquid does not enter the insulation. Sheet piling, sanded and varnished. On top of such a floor, the finish coating can not be used. But if you wish, you can lay carpet, linoleum, laminate and others.

Remember that ventilation holes should also be left in the basement. They close only in winter.

Conclusion

We examined all the nuances of the floor construction device in a wooden house. I hope our article will help you find correct solution and approach to arranging the floor.

Do not forget that the tree is natural material which requires care and treatment with special means.

The flooring process requires care, accuracy and compliance with the instructions. Installation work can be done by hand.

The arrangement of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors short term become unusable and need to be replaced. Using some impregnation, you can protect the tree from decay. Chemical methods protections are very effective and prevent the process of damage to the material. However wooden structure, impregnated chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that it is because of this indicator that a tree is chosen, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between the layers. Fasten the wooden flooring using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

Source 1poderevu.ru

The subfloor denotes certain bases, which by themselves form an ideal surface for laying the final floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed to the floor covering.

In wooden structures, draft floors are made by three methods:

wooden on logs;
pouring concrete;
use of plywood flooring.

Source fondeco.ru

Wooden floors on logs

In a wooden house, the subfloor device does not differ from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only feature is how the lags are attached:

There is no need to fasten the logs to various wooden boards. The best option is to strengthen them to the basement or grillage of the foundation, retreating a couple of centimeters from all the walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11 cm on all sides of the lag.
Before laying the base, lay the strapping from below, which is made of a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. They do not need to be rigidly strengthened with strapping. It should only be fixed so that they do not stagger while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a few centimeters indent from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before that, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. It is necessary to first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut in the tree the dimensions necessary for the groove, which will be required for the support function.

Important: it is recommended to add about 2cm to further widen the lag. It must be remembered that the laying of the log and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the laying of the waterproofing layer is completed.

Source kamtehnopark.ru

The standard steps between two lags are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, the choice of the lag section and the acting load is made. With small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, with heavy loads - 15x20, with medium ones - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load action, if the beams have a small section, it is desirable to provide section parameters of 30x40 cm.

Installation of subfloors on logs

When the installation is done, you will need to do the standard installation. It is carried out in several stages:

It is necessary to fix the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the log from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial bar with boards that will have more lags in width. They will need to be nailed either along or below the lags.
Boards should be laid. They need to be laid on the cranial bar, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it goes onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation, and use a stapler for fastening.
Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
Vapor barrier. Lay in the same way as waterproofing.
Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to break through the counter rails along the lag on top of the vapor barrier.
Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. From the wall, the logs must be separated by a gap of 2 cm. They will then be placed heaters.

Source lineyka.net

On our website you can find contacts construction companies, which offer the service of designing houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

Read more about floor insulation in a wooden house - in this video:

Rough plywood floors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has a high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

On a cement base. It will be necessary to provide a horizontal and even base or use leveling stands.
Attach to the legs. The main thing is to correctly set the lags to ensure that the joint of the sheet hits them. The joists must be set in such a way that the top surface provides a straight line. They then remove the insulation and sound insulation.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it is necessary that it be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers, the minimum thickness should be at least 9mm.

Source homius.ru

All debris and dust must be removed from the base prior to final laying. If possible, priming should also be done - primer treatment. Plywood must be fixed with glue, and the head of the self-tapping screw must be drowned.

Concrete floor

Like the draft and finishing floor in a wooden house, the concrete version is less common than the others. The concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved with the help of thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is more even and durable. The concrete floor in a wooden house is also chosen because it is better preserved from destruction.

Source zamokok.ru

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

Lay on the lags.
Lay on the ground.
A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
Stakes less than 11 cm should be hammered into the ground, so that later gravel can be poured over them. After that, it should be tamped and the pegs removed.
Next, the sand is poured.
Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equated with the height of the cord. The concrete is then poured onto the prepared surface.
Concrete is leveled along the rails.
Next, the concrete should be covered with a film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is sometimes necessary to spray the mass with water.
After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing lags

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the lags. Therefore, when providing a floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to protect them from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

The drug with a bioprotective composition protects the tree from mold, decay, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such funds will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Source centermira.ru

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

environmental friendliness;
slight odor;
absence of allergens.

It is necessary to apply preparations before the installation of the floor in a wooden house has begun.

Indelible antiseptic

A great option if the city has high humidity. Also indicated for use in places with increased level precipitation, temperature changes, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 coats. After completion of work, the color of the tree will become pistachio.

Folk methods

Folk remedies for processing lags:

Transformer oil. Through deep penetration into the wood structure and embalming this remedy excellent material protection.
Resin. From bugs, fungi and decay, birch resin will perfectly help. Its only disadvantage is the vulnerability to fire.
Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons - too strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Source decorexpro.com

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

Draft coating.
Heat and waterproofing layers.
Clean floor.
Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finishing floor in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 stages, which were mentioned above, and start working on the finishing floor.

Source lesdomik.ru

To make a finishing floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is being built in 3 stages:

Logs are laid - so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
The board must be fixed closer to the wall.
Next, you should use a hammer and a bar so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. With the help of a self-tapping screw, fasteners of each log are carried out through the comb.

Important! If there are plans to change the floor in the future, it is necessary to use a simple mounting option - all floorboards should be fixed from above to the logs using self-tapping screws.

Source ms.decorexpro.com

Conclusion

Natural materials today are experiencing a peak in popularity. So, in the device of the floor in a private house, consumers prefer wood. But before you feel the beauty of such a natural finish, you need to lay wooden floors in a private house, and this is not an easy task.

Wooden floor

Why choose a tree?

Wooden flooring is a classic option for arranging in a private house. The board for this is used both massive and glued. This material has its advantages:

Great look. The natural beauty of wood is incomparable to any other material.
The boards can be toned, so you can give the floor the look you want from it so that it fits into the design style.
Wood exudes a pleasant smell, especially conifers.
Wood is an excellent heat insulator, even in the cold season it will provide comfort.
Resistant to pollution. Solid wood floors can be sanded and painted.
An old wood floor can be used as a base for a new floor.
Relatively low price. This applies to pine boards. If we talk, for example, about larch or oak, then such a floor covering will be far from cheap.

The disadvantages of the wooden floor is also not without:

Low-quality boards that are poorly or not dried at all will begin to creak over time.
As the material dries out, cracks form in the floor. No matter how well the boards are dried, the natural process cannot be avoided.

Idea! To minimize the number of gaps, it is worth laying narrow boards, they have less area shrinkage, which means that the cracks will be hardly noticeable. This technology is also called deck technology.

Types of wooden floors

Boards of different types are laid on the floor:

Massive.
Parquet board. She has grooves on all sides, the length of the elements is within 0.5-2 meters, the thickness is 1.4-2.5 cm.
Glued. It practically does not differ from parquet in terms of appearance and ease of use. It consists of several layers, which gives it increased strength and stability.
Parquet is planks small size from solid wood.

Wooden floor joists

floor construction

You can make a wooden floor in a private house with your own hands, but it is important to follow the installation technology without skipping the steps. This type of flooring has key structural elements, without which it will not work:

Supporting elements: leveled ground, concrete screed, posts.
Logs are supports on which boards are attached.
Actually the boards that form the floor.

Often they practice another element between the lags and the floorboards - this is the subfloor. It is mounted on a support beam or logs from below. Such an additional floorboard serves as a support for the insulation. Even if the material for insulation is not used, the air gap will make the finished floor warmer. There are different ways of laying the floor.

Floor on joists

It is not difficult to make a floor in a house with your own hands from wooden boards with their installation on beams. This technology, in which the support beams are laid directly on the ground, is the simplest, as it does not require additional time and money.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Preparation of the base, that is, the soil. The soil layer is removed to a depth of at least 7 cm, the entire extracted volume is covered with sand. Such a sand cushion will become a reliable basis for future beams. The sand is well compacted and leveled.
Fine gravel is poured over the sand with a thickness of 10 cm. It is also leveled and compacted.
A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top. For this, oilcloth, roofing felt, a special membrane are used. Moreover, this layer should overlap, and the edges of the vapor barrier should go 10-15 cm onto the wall.
Next, the logs are laid, the distance between them is 60-80 cm. At the same time, about 3 cm are indented from the walls - compensation gaps that will allow the wood to expand freely. The beams are fixed to the walls of the foundation with the help of special plates.
Next comes the installation of the boards of the rough subfloor. A crate is made on top of it, and a finishing floor is already nailed onto it. Another option is to install the subfloor under the logs, and the finishing one directly on them. But this option is somewhat more difficult to implement. Insulation is laid between the floor levels.

Installation of floorboards on brick posts

Post mounting

Before you make wooden floors on the posts in a private house, you need to install the posts themselves - the supporting pedestals. The material for their creation is brick, although, if there is time and materials, concrete can also be poured. This method of mounting on logs in a private house with posts is used if you need to raise the floor level.

Preparing the base and posts

The first step is to prepare the foundation - dig holes for the posts. The distance between them is 1-1.2 m. In this case, it must be taken into account that the pillars closest to the wall are located at a distance of 40 cm from the walls of the foundation.

The depth of each pit is 40-50 cm, I put a puff pillow of sand and gravel in them. The process for creating each column is as follows:

10 cm of sand is poured into a recess with a rammed bottom. It is convenient to ram it, spilling sand with water in small quantities.
The rest of the pit is covered with crushed stone of a fine fraction.
A piece of roofing material is laid on top.
Metal rods are inserted into the pit.
The resulting "pie" is poured with concrete mortar.

As soon as the foundation of the pillars has dried up and seized, you can lay the brick and display the desired height. At each stage of creating supports, it is required to control the level.

An important point is the section of the columns, each of them is not less than 50 × 50 cm.

Installation of logs and boards

Now the wooden floor on the logs is arranged in almost the same way as in the previous proposed method. In order for all the work to be successful, it is important to first calculate the location of the pillars and materials to create them. Some subtleties of creating such a floor:

Roofing material must be laid on the posts. If this is not done, after a few years the beams will rot under the influence of moisture from the supports, and they will have to be replaced.
The logs are attached to the posts with the help of special hardware - this will ensure the stability and strength of the underground.
In cases where the length of the lag is not enough for a full span from wall to wall, they are made of edged material, and its joints must converge on the column.
If the subfloor is not mounted, you need to pour insulation. The best option is expanded clay. Its quantity is flush with the beams.

Mounting a wooden floor on a screed

This solution is used by homeowners who want to install a natural floor, but already have a concrete screed. A design made in this way will also last a long time, provided that the installation technology is clearly maintained.

Logs of a wooden floor on a coupler.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Foundation preparation. If the concrete base is uneven, and there are differences of more than 3 mm per 1 meter, leveling is required. In this case, it is recommended to use self-leveling compounds.
Next, a layer of waterproofing is mounted, it must be brought to the walls.
On the floor, markings are made for the installation of a log. The distance between them does not exceed 60 cm, if the room is small, then 80 cm can be made. So the load will be distributed evenly.
Special studs are mounted in the designated areas, with the help of which the beams are attached to the floor. Under the studs, a hole is drilled in the floor and in the beam.
Next, the logs are installed on the studs and aligned in height.
The space that has formed between the lags is closed with a heater. Expanded clay, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene can be used. Regardless of the type of insulation chosen, it is isolated from both the concrete floor and wooden boards.
We must not forget about the gaps between the wall and the first board.
At the end, the floor boards are installed.

Pouring a concrete base with expanded clay for a wooden floor

Rules for the installation of wooden flooring

There are a number of mandatory requirements in accordance with which any wooden floor must be laid, regardless of the chosen technique.

The humidity of the floorboards should be no more than 12%. The durability of the flooring depends on the quality of drying. By observing the conditions of humidity, it is possible to minimize the deformation of the material.
Boards should not have external defects. Before you buy an array of boards or glued materials, carefully inspect them. Cracks, chips, other defects are not allowed. If you do not pay close attention to this, the flooring will soon have to be changed.
Treat all wooden elements with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will extend the life of the floor and increase fire resistance.
The quality of the wood must be high. Savings are not appropriate here, it is better to buy material that meets all the requirements than to re-lay it after a few years.
Do not forget about the insulation, it will also extend the life of the floor, and besides, it will be more comfortable in the room. When installing insulation, follow the technology, most of them do not like moisture, so you will need waterproofing.

Note! The best period for wood flooring is the end of the heating season. During this period, the humidity is optimal.

For arranging the floor, you can use solid and glued boards. fit sheet materials and folded boards.

Penoizol insulation

Before fastening, lay out the boards on the logs to determine the place of their installation, number the boards in the order of fastening.
Start laying from the wall, not forgetting the expansion gap.
Nail the boards or fasten them with self-tapping screws.
If the board is tongue-and-groove, the outer tongue will have to be cut.
Close the gaps between the wall and the boards with a plinth.

On the choice of lumber

Compliance with the installation technology, the use of waterproofing and insulation will not give the desired effect if the wood is selected incorrectly. In this case, various factors must be taken into account:

financial opportunities;
climatic zone;
the degree of loading;
type of room in which the flooring is mounted.

So, conifers are selected for small rooms, they are affordable and show themselves well in operation. More expensive species: oak, larch, aspen, alder. But they also have better performance.

Selection rules:

The material must be dry.
Do not choose materials with cracks, resinous spots, splits. This applies to both boards and logs.
The board must be bought with a margin of 15% or more.
The most convenient boards with a length of 2 meters.
The lumber should be from the same batch - this will ensure relatively uniform processing, dryness, color and pattern.
The best option would be a grooved board, this is more convenient to install and operate.

Warming mineral wool

Conclusion

Installing a wooden floor is a task feasible for everyone. It is not difficult to make such a flooring with your own hands. It is important to comply with the technology, in this case wood flooring will last for many years.

Sufficiently relevant in the application are considered natural Construction Materials. In this regard, wooden floors in a private house, being an environmentally friendly product, are used in many suburban buildings.

They are quite popular, as the installation is quite simple and reliable. You can do the work without the services of specialists with your own hands. True, this will take a lot of effort and time. In addition, you will have to carefully study the nuances of their flooring technology.

Choice of option

Such a question sooner or later confronts every owner who plans to reconstruct or build his house from scratch.

First you need to decide how the floor will be installed in a private house.

To date, the following options for flooring wooden floors are most popular:

Located on logs (cuts) on the ground.
Mounted on brick (concrete) pedestals.
Flooring on a cement screed.

The advantage that a wooden floor has in a private house over a concrete counterpart is the environmental friendliness of the material and good thermal insulation performance. The only drawback is the need for well-executed waterproofing. If this is not done, even the most reliable larch or beech floor will require replacement over time.

Of all known flooring methods concrete base considered to be the most durable. But the material is very cold, so it is necessary to lay a wooden covering on top of it.

Construction and wood

Choose wood for the floor without flaws

For example, the system of laying wooden floors in a private house, located on the ground floor, is considered. For this situation, the coating is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements:

lags (cuts);
draft floors;
waterproofing;
thermal insulation;
finishing floors;
finishing flooring.

The structure is located on supporting pillars or beams made of cement mortar or brick. Under the floor there is a subfloor in which communications can be placed, and this free space can also be used to store canned goods, vegetables or other unnecessary things.

If the underground is thought out in advance, and the foundation was well insulated during its installation, the arrangement of a full-fledged basement floor is allowed.

This method of floor installation is considered the most common, because thanks to the subfloor, the space is well ventilated, the wood is always dry, and an optimal microclimate is created on the ground floor. Installation of a wooden floor directly on the ground is allowed only if the level of groundwater penetration has been taken into account.

Failure to comply with these requirements can lead to the formation of mold and mildew in the subfield. Waterproofing in this case, you need to pay special attention.

Material selection

For logs, choose resinous wood

Wooden floors in a private house are constantly exposed to heavy loads, therefore it is recommended to use only durable wood for their installation, and it is also necessary to choose materials that fit the following characteristics:

From what percentage of moisture the fiber has, the service life of the floors will depend. Otherwise, you will have to thoroughly dry the boards and treat them with special compounds that prevent the formation of mold.
The device of the floor in the house is recommended to be performed only from boards and timber that do not have cracks and chips. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the need for a short period of repair of the structure.
Treatment with fire-fighting compounds and antiseptics is required in any case.
The board made of oak, ash and beech has the greatest strength. The disadvantage of these types of wood materials is that they are too fragile and expensive. Therefore, sawn timber from coniferous species is most common: pine, spruce, larch, cedar.

Underground

Don't forget the ventilation holes

When laying the floors with your own hands, you definitely need to think about the fact that the subfloor under them has ventilation holes. If this is not done, the life of the flooring will be significantly reduced.

If windy and snowy winters occur in the region in which the house is located, a ventilation pipe with a visor is installed as a barrier against blowing out the underground space.

To improve the quality of ventilation, you can make an additional window fan. A small grate with a cell size of more than 10 mm will serve as an obstacle to the entry of mice and rats.

Poles or beams

The installation of floors in a private house begins with the installation of base columns. In most cases, these are brick lined or poured concrete structures. As an option, a tree of durable species is used: oak, beech, ash, but their service life rarely exceeds 10 years. For more information about flooring in a house made of timber, see this video:

First you need to choose the location of the columns. To do this, use a tape measure and lacing. The rope is stretched between the walls in the center of the room. With an interval of 80 - 100 cm from each other, notes are made in the ground. These are the locations of the pillars. Further, you can be guided by the following rule: the distance from the columns depends on the thickness of the lag or overcut. The larger the beam, the greater the distance allowed to be made.

To accurately determine the distance between the columns, it is recommended to use the table.

After the installation sites are determined, you can proceed with the installation of the pillars. by the most the best option separate foundations will be poured under them, going to a depth of 50 - 100 cm.

Their height should exceed the ground level by 5 - 10 cm, after which a waterproofing layer is laid and the main element is mounted. The average width depends on the height of the structure and ranges from 40 to 50 cm.

To avoid leveling the floor and facilitate your work, you need to take care of the correct horizontal line at the stage of preparing the base for the posts and monitor its observance during the entire installation process.

Installation of logs (cuts)

Under wooden logs hydroprotection is put

Before you make wooden floors in a private house, you need to lay on the pillars aligned at the same height wooden beam, on which the floorboards will be laid in the future. On the stone surface it is necessary to place hydroprotection, for this it is allowed to use roofing material.

A beam is laid on top, which must be fixed on the basis of the pillars. To do this, you can use metal plates or corners that are attached with anchors, screws or nails. After the cuts are laid and fixed, they must be treated with an antiseptic.

If the horizontal was not observed, the plane is leveled by placing wooden wedges under the timber.

Floorboard installation

Depending on the chosen method of how the floor will be installed in a private house, the procedure for further work may differ significantly. The simplest is the installation of a single floor.

To make a double wooden coating with a heater placed inside, it will take much more time and consumables.

Single

After the cuts are fixed, tongue-and-groove boards 4–5 cm thick are laid on them. Fixing to the beam is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. Having completed the laying, it is allowed to lay the floor covering or paint the erected floor.

Mostly a single floor is mounted for a country summer house, which is used only in warm weather.

Double with insulation

If the floor is being laid for a house in which you will live permanently, it is recommended to use a double floor with an intermediate location of thermal insulation. Such technology will require more time and money, but the result will not keep you waiting long. The floor will be much warmer, and living in the house will be more comfortable. For more information about installing a wooden floor, see this video:

Its installation procedure is as follows:

When installing rough wooden floors in a private house, you need to leave a gap of 2-3 cm from the extreme board to the wall. It is needed for the temperature shift of the wood and will help to avoid possible swelling of the surface.

Wood is considered a natural and environmentally friendly material that requires mandatory care. Despite the superficial complexity of flooring for a private house, even a person who does not have sufficient multifaceted experience in this field can do this work.