Heating on wooden floor. Underfloor heating on wooden logs: do-it-yourself step-by-step installation Why "dry" warm floor

Every year underfloor heating is becoming more and more popular.

But, unfortunately, the owners of private houses can not make all types of underfloor heating, since wooden floors will not withstand heavy loads.

Types of underfloor heating that can be laid on wooden floors

There are two types of warm systems: water and electric. They are equivalent in creating a comfortable environment, evenly warm up the area of ​​the room, there are no drafts on them, but they differ in the installation method and operating cost.

Water heated floor

Water floor - a circuit of pipes with a coolant inside, which is connected to the heating system. More often, such structures are mounted in a concrete screed, but for houses with wooden floors- not suitable because of the impressive weight, because not every wooden base can withstand it. Therefore, it is recommended to install this type of floors in a “dry” way - without a screed.

Hydrostructures are popular for heating wooden houses, since they are safe, unlike electrical types and their operating cost is acceptable. The only negative is the possibility of leakage at the junction of pipes.

Electric floors

Electrical devices are a circuit of wires that serves as a heating element. There are: cable and infrared.

Cable systems, as well as water floors, are more often mounted in a screed, but in the presence of wooden floors, laying without a screed is recommended. Infrared view does not need concrete pouring, and the installation process is the easiest.

The device - electric underfloor heating is less commonly used in log houses, because:

• has a higher operating cost;
• fire hazard, although correct installation the risk is minimized.

Despite these shortcomings, electric floors can be made in a wooden house, as they have the following positive aspects:

• simple installation, in comparison with the water system - they have smaller dimensions;
• quickly warm up the room;
• it is possible to regulate the temperature in each room;
• service life of more than 50 years.

There is no consensus on which heated floors are better to do in a wooden house with your own hands, the main thing is that they are light - without a screed.

If we start from the price of heat resources, then it is more profitable water system. At desire to keep height of ceilings - infrared. And if you want to save on the construction of the structure - electric.

Summing up, we can say that in houses with wooden floors it is permissible to install any type of underfloor heating, the main thing is to do it in accordance with the technology and in compliance with safety measures.

For your information! It is better to install underfloor heating when building a house or in the process of overhaul.

Installation of a water-heated floor without a screed

The most common method of making water heated floors in a private house with wooden floors is flooring - without a screed. The bottom line is laying pipes between the lags or on draft boards.

Before starting work, you need to prepare a tool and buy material. In addition, you should prepare a circuit laying scheme: "snail" or "snake".

If you decide to do, in it you will find step by step installation how to do the styling yourself.

Foundation preparation

Feature installation of a warm water floor in a house with wooden floors, which was operated long time, consists in assessing the condition of the floors. If the building is new, then these steps are not required.

The assessment consists of examining:

• beams - determine the degree of strength;
• floor - for cracks;
• bases - to detect differences (no more than 3 mm are allowed).

If necessary, you need to replace rotten beams, dry the wood, smooth out irregularities on the surface and seal the cracks with sealant. Then, treat the wooden floor with an antiseptic.

If the foundation has become obsolete, then it must be dismantled and a new one built.

Subfloor installation

On a prepared, even base, a draft floor made of wood of any kind is mounted, the main thing is to prevent the formation of cracks. Boards should have a thickness of 20 mm, they are fixed to the base with self-tapping screws.

Laying waterproofing material

A hydro-vapor barrier film is spread on the floor, ordinary polyethylene will not work, as condensation will form.

The product is laid with the membrane side down, with an overlap of one sheet on the other - 10 cm, and is interconnected using double-sided adhesive tape.

Lag installation

The installation process should begin with fixing the corners. They are fixed on opposite walls in increments of 60 cm. Logs are installed on the corners and aligned horizontally, parallel to the raised floor.

Installation of thermal insulation

As thermal insulation material you can use mineral wool in slabs or basalt insulation. During the laying process, deformation of the plates should not be allowed, otherwise they will partially lose their heat-shielding properties. The material is laid between the lags, a layer of 10 cm.

For your information! The thermal insulation layer must be at least 5 cm below the height of the lag to create a ventilation gap.

Installation of waterproofing

The second layer of waterproofing is mounted. The polyethylene film should be laid on the logs in a stretch, it should not sag, and is fastened with a stapler to wooden beams.

Watch the video

Substrate preparation for pipes

Across the log, slats 2 cm thick are nailed, with an indent from the walls of 30 mm. There should be grooves between them, their size depends on the pipe laying step, the standard one is 20 mm. Metal plates are installed in these grooves, into which water heating elements will be mounted.

Important! Wooden slats also need to be treated with a hydrophobic agent.

It is possible to replace the aluminum plates with foil, which should be wrapped around the pipes before they are laid in the grooves. One end of the foil must be fixed with a stapler to the rails.

Circuit setting

The heating circuit pipes are placed in the grooves on the mounted reflective profile. To turn the pipe, it is necessary to shorten the board from the end in this area by 10 - 15 cm.

For your information! For installation in houses with wooden floors, pipes with a diameter of 16 mm are recommended. They are strong, easy to bend, mounted without the use of special tools, and a single piece provides reliable tightness.

Connection

There are several ways to connect the water circuit. The simplest is through the taps to the central heating, this is to allow manual control. To connect to a home heating system, a pump must be installed.

Important! It is necessary to check the operation of the device for the degree of heating and leakage before mounting the finish coat.

Laying underlay for finishing coat

Gypsum fiber boards or chipboard sheets can be used as flooring. They should completely cover the heating elements, which are well recessed into the grooves.

Floor covering installation

The final layer of the "pie" is laid. The main thing is that it is combined with warm devices.

On this, the process of installing a water-heated floor on wooden floors without a screed is completed. Despite the laboriousness of this method, it is popular, as it is less dirty and dusty, and does not create such a load on the floors.

For your information! It is possible to install a water circuit on foam polystyrene foil mats with bosses. In this case, the installation of the system is simplified.

Polystyrene plates with a foil coating are laid on the prepared rough base, they serve as hydro and thermal insulation, pipes are mounted and fixed with bosses, plywood is placed on top and flooring.

Do-it-yourself electric floor installation

You can make electric underfloor heating in a wooden house without a concrete screed. Let's consider two ways:

• on a solid wooden floor;
• on the lags.

The first method is simpler, but practically unsuitable for cable types of floors, as it has an impressive thickness. This method is suitable for infrared film systems.

Installation of electric infrared floors on a solid wood floor

Infrared film is the easiest option to make underfloor heating in a wooden house, since the process will not take much time and the design will not take up usable area, because the thickness of the “pie” is small.

To begin work on arranging infrared underfloor heating in a private house without a screed with your own hands, you should draw up a plan for the placement of the film and the location of the thermostat.

The very process of building a "pie" of a warm floor in a "dry" way looks like this:

1. A wooden base is being prepared - it should be even, without cracks. To do this, plywood or chipboard is laid on the subfloor, and fixed on self-tapping screws.

• A layer of heat material is laid, its thickness must be at least 4 mm. It is laid end-to-end to each other, and fastened with a stapler to the base, and the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

For your information! If the room is damp, then waterproofing is laid under the insulation.

• The film is being prepared and laid out. The product is cut desired length, the film can only be cut along special lines. The cut canvases are laid on the floor according to the scheme, with copper strips down, and fixed with adhesive tape.

• Contact clips are installed on copper bars, and wires are connected. Each section is connected separately, so if one section fails, the entire system continues to function. To make the contact strong, it is necessary to squeeze it with pliers.

All unused sections of the film, in the places of its cut, as well as the terminal, should be isolated with bituminous tape.

• The temperature sensor is mounted, it is fixed with adhesive tape from the bottom of the film, on black stripe. The device itself and the wires from it, going to the thermostat, should be placed in the prepared grooves.
• The wires from the sensor and the film are connected to a thermostat mounted on the wall, which is connected to a power source.

Important! Be sure to check the system in operation, and only then lay the finish.

• A polyethylene film is laid over the heating elements, it serves as a waterproofing layer.

• The final coating is spread on a plywood substrate, which is previously laid on top of the film.

The infrared floor, installed without a screed on wooden floors, is ready for use.

Installation of cable heating on logs

The construction of an electric cable floor on logs is simpler than a water circuit in this way, since deep channels are not required for the cable. You should start by determining the location, scheme and step of laying the cable.

Installation sequence cable system without tie:

1. Base. It must be inspected to identify irregularities and damage that should be repaired.

• Logs. They are attached to the subfloor with self-tapping screws. In areas where the wire will intersect with the lags, it is required to make grooves for laying the cable.

• Thermal insulation. As it is used foil, which is laid between the bars and in the sawn grooves. The foil, in addition to heat-insulating properties, reflects the heat coming from the device.

• Galvanized mesh. Apply next layer standard size cells 40 by 40 or 50 by 50. The heating element will be fixed to the grid.
• Cable. The wire is laid in accordance with the developed scheme. It is fixed to the grid with the help of clamps, and to the lags - on the mounting film.

• Floor connection. A thermostat is mounted on the wall, according to the plan. The temperature sensor is placed in the corrugation, located between the wires, and connected to the thermostat.

• Flooring. It serves as a flooring underlay. For these purposes, sheets of plywood are used. between her and heating elements there should be a gap of 10 mm.
• Finish coating. The selected product is laid on top of plywood.

For your information! Wood is a good heat insulator, therefore, regardless of the type of underfloor heating, wood flooring should not exceed 21 mm, otherwise the efficiency of the device will decrease.

In addition, it is worth noting that you should not save too much when choosing a material, because low-quality components will quickly fail, and additional investments will be required to dismantle the floor and troubleshoot.

To create a cozy atmosphere in a private house with wooden floors, you can use any type of underfloor heating. The main thing is that when installing a structure without a screed, follow the recommendations of manufacturers of warm systems and safety regulations.

Video instructions

Underfloor heating is one of the most popular heating methods today, used both independently and together with other systems. The laying technology has been studied and perfected, but it is used mainly on the first floors due to the heavy weight of the cement screed, traditionally used to fill the highway. In order to fearlessly lay warm floors on wooden floors, without fear that the base will “play”, the Finns came up with an original technology. And FORUMHOUSE users adapted it to their needs and capabilities. Our craftsmen willingly tell everyone how to lay water-heated floors in a private house on wooden logs.

• Variations on the original theme
• System installation

Dry screed: lightweight underfloor heating

Dry screed - a technology by which a warm floor on logs is laid without pouring cement mortar. In a conventional system, the screed acts not only as a retainer, but also as a conductor - due to its high thermal conductivity, it effectively transfers heat upwards. But due to the large weight, it cannot be used on lags. According to Finnish technology in a dry screed, this function is performed by drywall sheets in three layers - as a base, between pipe loops, as the completion of the "pie". This makes the design easier. The voids between the pipes and sheets are covered with tile adhesive, the top layer is attached to it.

The design turns out to be lightweight, the load on the floors is within the normal range, and even in the event of a leak, the line can really be repaired.

Do-it-yourself water floors in a wooden house.

Variations on a theme

In our country, on the basis of Finnish technology, which facilitates the construction and makes it possible to abandon the monolithic casting, its variations appeared - the principle remained, but the materials were added:

• Gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL) - compared to gypsum boards, they are denser, stronger in bending and deformation, contain cellulose fibers and other additives that increase their technical characteristics. For wet rooms, a moisture-resistant variety (GVLV) is used;

Tishin FORUMHOUSE Member

In such a floor, instead of drywall, it is better to use gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL). I myself am now considering a dry screed for implementation in my house, only bottom layer I'll replace it with OSB. I will assemble the middle part from two layers of GVL.

• Chipboard, OSB (OSB), plywood - in terms of heat transfer, this design turns out worse, since wood and its derivatives act as an insulator. Ready-made sets of underfloor heating are sold on a dry screed made of chipboard sheets, with grooves selected for the hinges, but not everyone can handle their cost.

boatmaster Member FORUMHOUSE

Logs, with a step of 60 cm, plus insulation - 35 cm, OSB base, then a 20 mm pipe, plus a 5 mm clip, it turns out 25 mm, three layers of GVLV between pipes 12x3 = 26 mm.

• Cement particle board (DSP);
• EPPS - pipes are laid directly into the insulation, and the voids are covered with glue. To increase the heat transfer of the elements, foil or similar material is used;

The thickness of the sheets for the middle layer with the main is selected based on the diameter of the pipe, so that after filling with glue a flat surface is obtained, and the final layer does not put pressure on the pipe. Alternatively, two sheets are glued together if the thickness of one is not enough.

Forum users are actively organizing their underfloor heating systems on hardwood floors.

Serg177 Member of FORUMHOUSE

If something happens to the pipe (today, tomorrow or in 25 years), you won't have to break the coupler. I will buy 50 sheets of plywood for 200 m², 18 mm thick, dissolve it into strips, at intervals - a 16 mm pipe, and close 200 sheets of ten sheets and laminate on top.

One of the options for a do-it-yourself dry screed device is laying pipes in special aluminum plates with grooves. They tightly fit the pipes and increase heat transfer. The disadvantage of this configuration is the high cost of these metal gaskets, their use increases the cost of the entire system.

Vladimir Tallinn Member of FORUMHOUSE

There are not enough aluminum special sheets that are placed under the pipe and bring heat to the top. I have standing, they “hug” the pipe, the size is about 30 cm per meter, the groove for the pipe with rare spikes so that the pipe holds.

Sheets on a gypsum base are one of the most popular materials, as they are optimal in all respects.

• Acceptably worth;
• Easily sawn into segments;
• Eco-friendly (does not contain synthetic binders like wood-filled boards) and suitable for home use;
• non-combustible;

System installation

According to the lags based on Finnish technology, it assumes a standard installation algorithm, regardless of the materials used in the work, be it GKL, GVL (V) or other plates.

evraz Member of FORUMHOUSE

Similar technologies, where pipes or a heating cable are smeared with a solution in the grooves of the GVL and covered top layer GVL, painted by many manufacturers of underfloor heating systems.

Water heated floor on logs in a wooden house.

Warming

The system must transfer heat upwards, and not pass it into the ceiling, which will lead to increased heating of the carrier and a decrease in efficiency. A vapor barrier is laid between the lags, on top - a layer of insulation (mineral wool, EPS), covered with a layer of vapor barrier. The insulation will protect both the wood and the insulation from condensation, provided that it is not just a plastic film. Under a conventional film, condensation will form in even greater quantities.

Base

The optimal distance between the lags should be observed when the system is being mounted - 60 cm, in this case it is not necessary to create an additional crate to distribute the load, and the sheets form a monolithic structure. Sheets are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws.

Highway

The footage and diameter of the pipe depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, heat loss, and the power of the equipment used to heat the coolant. The most demanded range is 16-20 mm in diameter. The pipe pitch is also individual in each case, but on average - 100 mm, more often at the edges. The pipe is fastened with special metal or plastic brackets or do-it-yourself clamps.

Warm water floors, wooden floors.

Laying

The space between the contours of the pipes is filled with segments cut from sheets, grooves should remain around the pipes for filling with glue. The optimal groove size is 3 pipe diameters, this is enough for maximum heat removal. The segments are screwed with self-tapping screws, in increments of 10 - 15 cm, the length of the fastener should be enough to fix it in the logs.

filling

To fill the grooves, tile glue is most often used, a cement-sand mixture can be used, but plasticizers must be used when mixing. In order to increase adhesion, and the finishing layer of the “pie” is more firmly connected to the intermediate one, it is recommended, after filling the seams with pipes, to go over the entire surface with an adhesive mixture “on the peel”. This is advice from a user under the nickname Vitaon, he is professionally engaged in the installation of such systems and shared his trick with the members of the forum.

Vitaon Member of FORUMHOUSE

Before the final layer, the surface consists of alternating strips of dry plasterboard and ditches filled with adhesive. Immediately before gluing, it is necessary to cover the entire surface with putty, a wide spatula and a thin layer of glue - a homogeneous base will be obtained. On top, apply glue under the final layer. With this method, adhesion is greatly increased.

Finished floor

A water floor on wooden logs allows you to practically use it in a private house, only cheap linoleum is a contraindication - it will “smell” noticeably with constant heating. The best option is ceramic tile or laminate flooring. In the case of a laminate, a substrate does not fit under it, due to its thermal insulation properties.

Conclusion

Underfloor heating with dry screed according to Finnish technology - basic version, which can be tailored to specific conditions and needs. All the subtleties and nuances are in the subject. The article selects the most economical way heating devices. And in the video about engineering heating equipment - advice from the master on choosing.

Underfloor heating technology allows you to solve the problem of heating different houses. As you know, a warm floor, unlike a radiator system, has a lot of advantages. However, some may object that this heating method cannot be installed in a wooden house. In this article, we will dispel this notion. Moreover, there are several really working technologies that allow you to install a water-heated floor on a wooden base.

Is it possible

As mentioned at the beginning of the article, many doubt how realistic it is to equip a warm water floor in a wooden house. It should be said right away that this is not only possible, but also a completely reasonable solution. Of course, it is necessary to take into account some features and abandon the usual technologies, for example, pouring the screed. But on the other hand, it also facilitates the implementation of the task, because less labor is required.

For example, in a wooden house, heating floors above 30 ° C is prohibited. Otherwise, the floor surface may be deformed. For this reason, a warm floor must necessarily have a mixing unit and a comb. Thanks to this device, the temperature will be lowered. Among other things, it is necessary to use temperature control. Here the preference is given to the automatic system.

Moreover, it is necessary to pay special attention to the choice of floor material. Why? Heating materials such as parquet, laminate and linoleum above 25°C can lead to the release of toxic fumes, namely formaldehyde. This is explained by the fact that it is extremely important to clearly regulate and control the temperature of the heat carrier of the warm floor in a wooden house.

Possible difficulties

Among other things, you need to understand what difficulties you will encounter when performing such work. As you know, the principle of operation of a warm floor is that the heated surface accumulates and then transfers thermal energy. In the traditional version, all this works very simply, the screed heats up and it accumulates heat, and then gives it to the room.

As for the system on a wooden field, the situation is different here. Wood is not a very good thermal conductor. Perhaps someone will think, why not pour an ordinary screed onto a wooden floor? But in this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that 1 m 2 will have a load of up to 300 kg. Of course, this is a huge load from the water system on the wooden floor.

Ways to install a warm floor

A warm water floor can be organized in several ways. Let's take a look at each of these technologies:

1. The use of special mats. This refers to structures in which there are grooves for laying the water circuit. The base floor is pre-levelled. For this, plywood or other board material is used. The use of this modular system completely eliminates the need for a screed. The laid water circuit is covered with DSP, and the finishing floor material is mounted on top of the base.
2. Concrete floors on wooden floors. As already mentioned, this option is not optimal for the reason that a lot of pressure will be exerted on the overlap. Moreover, it is necessary to perform high-quality waterproofing of all wooden elements. In this case, a water-heated floor on a wooden floor will cost a lot.
3. Floor milling. This method is not entirely easy, as it involves the manufacture of special grooves in a wooden field. In this case, the wooden floor will act as mats. This method is the most affordable and not expensive. After all, the cost of completing underfloor heating will be significantly reduced.

Another option is also known, how to organize underfloor heating. Underfloor heating on wooden logs will include laying heating circuits between the logs. Thanks to this, the base will give a pleasant and comfortable warmth to the feet. To implement this method, it is necessary to completely dismantle the boards and lay the heating circuit in the logs. Thus, a warm water floor in a wooden house will become a reality.

What is needed for work

First of all, it is necessary to prepare all the building material and tools. The complete set of the tool will depend on the technology you choose. In general, for work you will need a set of carpentry tools, a tape measure, underfloor heating pipes and fittings, a locksmith tool kit, a screwdriver, and the like. Plus, you may need a rule, a level, a puncher, an angled Sander And so on.

Underfloor heating technology

Now consider the features of the manufacturing technology of a warm water floor in a wooden house. In our case, we will consider an example where we use polypropylene pipes. Why are they. Everything is very simple. Plastic pipes are connected using special fittings. The fittings have sealing rubber, there may be several of them. Over time, these rubber bands weaken and can leak. And, given that the tree is afraid of moisture, this phenomenon is not very favorable. There are expensive metal fittings on sale High Quality However, not everyone can afford them. Polypropylene welding technology allows you to create a monolithic connection. It is more durable. The main thing is to follow the soldering technology correctly.

So, the work process is as follows. First, the project of the entire warm floor in a wooden house is carried out. It is necessary to determine the hydraulic calculation. It is important to determine how effective this or that water circuit will be in a wooden house. Only after all these works, it is necessary to proceed to the next stage. You may need the help of specialists here so that all calculations are performed correctly and in accordance with existing standards.

The next step is to prepare the floor. First of all, determine if there are irregularities. If there is a difference in the floor, then you can level it with plywood or other sheet material. It is also necessary to create a waterproofing layer.

Advice! Waterproofing in a warm floor in a wooden house is a prerequisite. Although all work is done with high quality, it is better to provide additional protection.

If you opted for the use of special mats, then you carry out their installation. Usually, a polystyrene system is used as mats. These mats have special latches that allow you to cover the entire surface of the floor without any gaps.

In these grooves, a water-heated floor is laid. Pipes are securely fixed in the grooves. It is worth adding that the system is also equipped with a heat-reflecting plate. Plywood or DSP is laid on top of the mats. Next, the flooring of the floor finishing finishing material is carried out. Now let's pay attention to the choice of finishing material, which is allowed to be laid on a warm water floor in a wooden house.

Flooring

At the beginning of this article, we already talked about the fact that under a water-heated floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to choose the right finishing material. On top of the wooden flooring, you can use a laminate or parquet board. These materials are allowed for their installation. However, there is one important limitation - it is unacceptable to heat the surface above 25 ° C.

Some people prefer natural wood and lay a regular board. This is a very profitable solution from an economic point of view. It is especially important when a water-heated floor is laid between wooden logs.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

If you are just a novice specialist, then it is important to understand that installing a floor heating system has a large number of nuances. If they are not taken into account, then the entire floor heating system will not be effective. For example, condensation may form, which adversely affects the wooden floor.

So, it is unacceptable to lay heating circuits more than 70 meters alone. Otherwise, this can lead to uneven heating of the entire floor in a wooden house. It is also unacceptable to mount a warm floor without the presence of waterproofing material. Do not think that you can save money here. After a while, if a leak suddenly occurs, the consequences of the savings can be catastrophic. For this reason, wood is treated with special impregnations, stacked waterproofing material eg polyethylene and the like.

Well, it is equally important to choose the right finishing material. In this case, a number of factors are taken into account: what will be the temperature of the coolant, is it possible to automatically regulate the temperature, and much more.

Conclusion

So, as we have seen, it is quite possible to implement a water-heated floor in a wooden house. Moreover, all the work can be done by hand without the involvement of specialists. If you have no experience at all in this area, then you will have to seek help from specialists. If you are stubborn and like to do everything with your own hands, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with an interesting and informative video that clearly shows the entire process of installing underfloor heating in a wooden house. We hope that this material was useful to you! If you already had experience of similar works, then share them in the comments to this article.

On the modern market there is a huge variety of heating and space heating systems, which differ in specifics and recommended areas of application.

One of key points The choice of heating system is the construction technology of a particular structure. Water heated floors in a wooden house are the best choice for a wooden structure in terms of efficiency, profitability and safety of the heating system (this is especially true for cottages and country houses).

The design and installation of a warm water floor in a wooden house are technically complex engineering tasks and require highly qualified specialists.

Our company specializes in the creation of heating systems various types and offers services for the design and installation of a water-heated floor at the most affordable prices with official quality assurance.

We have been working in this market segment for more than 10 years and have a whole staff of qualified employees, our own design department, the necessary equipment and vast experience in creating heating systems of any complexity.

Advantages of warm water floors in private wooden houses

The main advantages of this type of floors are:

• Significant reduction in heating costs;
• No decrease in air humidity during heating;
• No convection flow;
• Possibility of space heating winter period and cooling the room in the summer;
• High heating efficiency with minimal energy consumption;
• No need for regular system maintenance;
• High level of reliability, durability and safety of the system.

Key advantages of ordering installation in our company

The main advantages of ordering the installation of a water-heated floor under wooden floors in our company include:

• Extensive experience and impeccable reputation of the company;
• Creation of a turnkey system, from design to commissioning;
• Optimal market prices and the provision of an official guarantee for 24 months;
• Carrying out work without prepayment and payment for services only after the full implementation of the project;
• The presence of a whole staff of qualified employees;
• Use of high-quality components and water floors from well-known world manufacturers.

Water heated floor from "MSK-Teply Dom"

The most common types of installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house:

1. Modular design- this installation method involves assembling the base for pipes from prefabricated structural elements that are equipped with holes for laying the circuit. Laying mats is carried out on a flat floor covering. If the floor is uneven, level the plane using Quality Strand Board rough finish sheets or plywood sheets. After installing the main structure, a water-heated floor is laid out; in a wooden house, such a structure is covered on top of the DSP. Then you can lay the finish layer.
2. Water floors "concrete"- this type of installation is used if other options are not possible. Installation is carried out on top of a wooden base. Before installation, it is necessary to ensure complete insulation of wood from possible moisture ingress. Laying is done with ready-made mixtures with short drying times.
3. Milling method of wood coating- special grooves are made in the floor for pulling the heating circuit. These works are performed using a special milling machine. This installation is economical and does not require the purchase of an additional building material. Installation is possible if the floor is even and the base has a sufficiently large thickness.

Specialists of the company "MSK-Teply Dom" perform the work efficiently. When ordering from us the design and installation of underfloor heating, you can be sure that the work will be done professionally and on time.

In fact, no matter what skeptics say, arranging a warm water floor in a wooden house made of timber is not only a possible, but also a reasonable solution to the issue of heating. Of course, you will have to take into account certain nuances associated with the peculiarity of operation. wooden house.

So, for example, it is forbidden to heat the floors above 30 degrees. The wooden surface under the influence of high temperatures is easily deformed, turns into dust. Therefore, a water-heated floor on a wooden base must not be connected to the central heating circuit, but a separate heat source should be used for this purpose.

Warm water floor cake in wooden country house greatly limits the possibility of using a concrete screed. The heating system will have to be laid dry, which also creates certain inconveniences.

When choosing a floor covering, it should be noted that some popular Decoration Materials: laminate, parquet board - when heated above 25 ° C, they begin to emit toxic formaldehyde fumes.

Variants of the device of a wooden floor with water heating

There are several options for arranging underfloor heating in a wooden house. The choice of laying method is selected depending on specifications building.

Common mounting methods are:

• Mats - represent ready-made structures with grooves for laying a water circuit. You can lay the mats on a flat subfloor. To do this, pre-trim the surface with plywood flooring or QSB - plates. The floor of the modular type does not require the use cement mixtures. From above, polypropylene pipes close the DSP, lay the floor covering.
• The device of warm concrete water floors on top wooden structures. Before installation, provide maximum insulation of wooden elements from moisture. All work is carried out exclusively ready-made formulations with a short drying time.
• Milling a wooden floor for pipes of a warm water floor system. With the help of cutters, the machine cuts out recesses for the passage of the pipeline. The wooden base begins to function as mats. As a result, the cost of flooring components is reduced. The disadvantage of milling is the complexity of the process. But with a specialized tool, installation time can be minimized.

Laying water heated floors on a wooden floor can be done by other methods. There is the following way. IN wooden frame simply lay the pipeline under the lags. The plank floor is disassembled, the water circuit is laid, after which the flooring is laid back.

How to make water floors in a wooden house

Underfloor heating device wooden floor with their own hands is practically no different from the structures used in other buildings. The exception is the special safety measures necessary to protect wooden surfaces from moisture.

Practice has shown that the best option will use pipes made of polypropylene.

Installation work is carried out as follows:

Which floor coverings are suitable

The choice of material is limited both by subsequent operation and by the method of manufacturing the heating system.

Traditionally, the following types of flooring are used:

• Ceramic tiles - the advantage of ceramics is the rapid heating of the surface and high heat transfer. Use limited to hallway, bathroom, kitchen and non-residential premises. When choosing ceramic tiles, heated floors must be poured with a screed, or covered with a cement-bonded particle board.
• Laminate and parquet board - there are two types of laying water heating on wooden floors: on mats or prepared strobes. Laminate or parquet can be laid regardless of the method of installation. installation work. The only drawback of the floor covering is the impossibility of heating the surface above 25°C.
• Ordinary board - you can also lay a water-heated floor on wooden beams with your own hands, laying boards over the water circuit. The solution does not require significant financial investments. This method is chosen if it is not possible to reduce the distance to the ceiling. Subsequently, it is possible to additionally lay linoleum or laminate.

What tool is required for installation

To install the water circuit you will need:

1. Roulette.
2. Plastic pipes and fittings.
3. A set of locksmith and construction tools.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Milling machine.

Installation of a concrete water-heated floor on wooden floors will additionally require the presence of:

1. Perforator.
2. Rules.
3. Angle grinder for cutting rebar.
4. Building level.

To work with wooden surfaces a set of cutters and drills, a powerful drill will come in handy.

What mistakes should be avoided during installation

Design features on a wooden base are that any violations and changes in phased installation heating will lead to problems in operation. The appearance of condensate and leakage is critical.

The pipe laying system does not allow the following violations:

Underfloor heating for a wooden house is a smart solution. Subject to the recommendations regarding installation, you can avoid possible difficulties in the process of future operation.

Water heated floor in a wooden house and with wooden floors

Floor heating systems for last years gained immense popularity both among the owners of cottages and among the owners of private houses. A water-heated floor in a wooden house has many nuances, since concrete is rarely used to build cottages to create a strong and high-quality foundation. For the construction of such buildings and structures, more traditional materials and methods are often used.

Few people can be surprised by the presence of a concrete screed and low-temperature heating installed in it. Thanks to numerous positive reviews, such systems have often been used as an additional and even the main heating system for individual rooms and the whole house as a whole. Until recently, many homeowners wondered: is it possible to install water-heated floors in wooden houses with wooden floors, because they are simply not designed for a weight of more than 200 kg per square meter. Optimal scheme such a device appeared relatively recently.

General picture of the system

Is it possible to install such a system

Despite what some experts say, installing such equipment is not only possible, but also a very reasonable solution. In order to properly install a warm floor in a private house, it is necessary to understand some of the features of its installation and the performance characteristics of the house itself, built of wood. For example, do not heat the work surface more than 30°C. This is due to the fact that the tree does not accept high temperatures and their impact on it leads to deformation. Over time, such material will turn into dust and simply crumble.

No tie needed

Therefore, the use of underfloor heating is better not in combination with central heating, but with a separate heat source. The use of a boiler implies the creation of a "pie" of underfloor heating, which will not allow the use of an additional layer of screed. In this case, the installation will have to be carried out dry, then beige directly on the beams and this is extremely inconvenient. In this case, absolutely different materials, such as:

However, when such materials are heated to 25°C or more, they begin to produce fumes containing formaldehyde.

Some manufacturers understand the need to use several heating circuits at the same time. In this case, we are talking about different intensity of surface heating. They produce a series of boilers that allow such connections for underfloor heating and heating radiators.

Types of structures intended for wooden houses

There are several ways to equip underfloor heating. If we are talking exclusively about warm water floors, then pipe installation can be carried out in the following ways:

• Using the classic method, in which pipes are laid directly into the concrete solution.

Lag tie scheme

• But the use of a dry installation method involves laying pipes directly along the logs or existing floor beams.

Laying pipes along the lags

A layer of cement screed is laid on top of such a contour, the thickness of which should be at least 25 cm. Before making a choice in favor of one method or another, one should study in more detail the design and main characteristics of wooden houses. Concrete floor can be poured on the first floor. It will play the role of a ceiling leading to the basement. In this case, a warm water floor should be laid directly under the screed, and not reinvent the wheel.

The top layer can be any flooring, up to ordinary wooden planks. However, this will lead to additional costs, since the lack of concrete base complicate the installation process. But if there are wooden floors in the house, then it is recommended to use an exclusively dry installation method.

This is because:

1. The weight of the concrete base is impressive. It puts a significant strain on wooden beams which may not support the weight of such material. In addition to warm water floors in a wooden house, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the furniture.
2. If a wooden house is built correctly, then it should "breathe" on its own, performing the function of the lungs of the house. If the air is too dry or, on the contrary, very humid, then over time the material may lead. The consequences can be very significant, as this leads to cracking of the existing screed. To avoid such a result, a number of important measures should be taken that could compensate for the subsequent expansion of the contour. In addition to additional costs, this is fraught with complicated installation. If cracks have already begun in the base, it is impossible to stop them.
3. Particular attention should be paid to buildings wooden beam which is very popular in modern construction. Often the material used is not fully dried. Over time, it will begin to dry out, which will inevitably lead to deformation or complete destruction of the concrete layer. A warm water floor will not help to avoid this problem.

Underfloor heating under beams - general image

System device

1. Boiler used for heating. If the choice fell on water floors, then it is possible to use a solid fuel, electric or gas equipped boiler. They are practical and quite comfortable. Their use implies the absence of a constant supply of fuel, which is used in wood and solid fuel boilers.
2. If it is planned to create really warm home, then it is recommended to use combined systems that will allow heating both batteries and the floor covering. Its temperature regime may differ, since the temperature in the radiators can reach up to 60°C, however, for wooden coverings, 30°C is considered the maximum. If this condition is not met, the tree will crack pretty soon.

How to make underfloor heating in a wooden house: device and installation options

Underfloor heating is an invention of the 20th century. Our great-grandfathers did not have a heating electric cable and gas boilers. However, they came up with their own way of heating. To do this, they used the walls of buildings. While laying, they left channels in them for the movement of hot furnace gases.

Today, there is no need to resort to such tricks. You can make warm floors in a wooden house with minimal effort and money.

The choice of a heating heating system is very simple:

• Electric cable or mats with flat conductors;
• Warm floor based plastic pipes with liquid coolant.

Both heating options deserve positive reviews. They are equal in terms of comfort and heat dissipation, but not the same in terms of energy cost. Electricity is much more expensive than gas, so a heating cable for underfloor heating is best used in small rooms: bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. For bedrooms and living rooms, a liquid system of pipes, a gas or solid fuel boiler is best suited.

A lot has been written and said about the fact that underfloor heating is better than radiators.

We only note its most important advantages:

• Optimal heat distribution. Zone comfortable temperature coincides with the living space (from the floor surface to a height of 1.7 meters). During battery operation, the air under the ceiling warms up the most.
• A radiator heating system activates the movement of dust to a greater extent than a warm floor.
• In terms of interior aesthetics, underfloor heating outperforms radiators.

Features of the installation of underfloor heating (water and electric) in a wooden house

The technology of laying a water-heated floor in a wooden house depends on the type of flooring. If the first floor and basement are covered with reinforced concrete panels, then the heating system is made according to the "classic" scheme:

• leveling mortar screed;
• insulation (extruded polystyrene foam, perlite concrete);
• heating cable or plastic pipes;
• leveling screed covering the warm floor;
• finishing coating (tile, parquet, laminate).

It is more difficult to make a warm floor when wooden beams are used to cover the basement and the first floor. In this case, there is no solid base, so the structure is assembled according to one of two options:

Option number 1

• from below, a board is knocked to the beams to support the insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, perlite);
• having laid the thermal insulation, plastic pipes are attached to the side faces of the beams;
• cutouts are made in the beams for passing pipes;
• they lay a fine wooden floor from tongue-and-groove boards or a rough one for laying parquet or laminate.

Option number 2

• thick plywood is laid on the beams or OSB board(15-20 mm);
• attached to the cover wooden blocks section 50x50mm;
• insulation is laid between the bars;
• lay a material that reflects heat (aluminum foil);
• pipes are placed on top of the thermal insulation, fixing them to the bars;
• mount a draft floor from a board, gypsum-fiber sheets (gvl), particle boards or plywood;
• lay the finish coating (ceramic tiles, parquet, laminate).

In advanced systems mounted on wooden floors, heat-distributing metal plates are used. They perform two functions: they form channels for pipes and reflect heat.

To simplify installation, you can use ready-made factory-made chipboards with milled recesses for pipes. In addition, on the market you can find panels made of dense foam with stamped channels (foam shield). In them, pipe wiring is fixed quickly and easily.

In the case of using foam, there is no need to attach a board to the beams to support the thermal insulation. Rigid insulation in this case is attached directly to the surface of the subfloor. After that, a substrate is spread on it under the laminate or an adhesive solution is applied, then a reinforcing mesh and tiles are laid.

Main disadvantage finished structures(foam board and milled chipboard) – high price. Therefore, some home masters use a cheaper channeling method. They stuff wooden planks on the base, leaving gaps between them for laying pipes.

Instead of expensive thermoplastic plates, you can use affordable aluminum foil ( this way suitable for both water and electric underfloor heating).

Planks are made from planed boards or cut from moisture-resistant plywood. Their thickness must be greater than the diameter of the pipeline (pipe 17 mm - rail 30 mm). To improve heat transfer, the channel width is made 5-6 millimeters larger than the pipe diameter.

The width of the slats is made 3 cm less than the selected pipe layout step (for example, a pipe step of 30 cm - a board width of 27 cm). For a smooth bending of the loops of the pipeline, semicircular grooves are cut out in the slats.

Another way to lay a warm water floor with your own hands is shown in the diagram below.

The profiled sheet in this case acts as a heat-reflecting screen and forms channels for pipes. In the diagram, we see a variant of the installation of a heating floor not above the basement, but on the ground floor. From below, along the beams, a finishing filing of the ceiling was made from lining. Therefore, the shield (10), which supports the insulation, is attached not to the lower edges of the beams, but to the cranial bars nailed to their sides.

Please note that when laying thermal insulation (except for foam), it is always protected from above and below with a vapor barrier film. It protects the insulation from getting wet, as it allows water vapor to freely escape from it.

Leaving a thermal gap between the edge of the flooring and the wall, it is necessary to lay a damper tape in it. It seals the contact zone and compensates for thermal deformations.

Helpful advice!

For laying a finished floor, use a board that has passed chamber drying. Do not rush to fix the finishing wood flooring to the base. Up to this point, the warm floor should work for at least 2 days.

Installation of a “dry” electric underfloor heating in a wooden house is easier than installing a water system. A thin current-carrying cable does not need deep channels. It is fixed to the base with plastic ties-clamps or metal plates.

The installation sequence looks like this:

• A reflective layer of aluminum foil is laid on the thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool, perlite);
• A galvanized steel mesh with a cell of 40x40 or 50x50 mm is laid on the foil.
• Slots are made in the lags for the passage of an electric cable;
• A cable is attached to the grid with clamps;
• In the middle between the wires, a temperature sensor is installed in a corrugated tube and connected to the thermostat;
• On a fireproof base or in a metal hose, a power cable is output to an electrical outlet;
• A draft plywood floor is being laid;
• Finishing coating (laminate, parquet board) is mounted.

If the electric underfloor heating is covered with ceramic tiles, then the installation procedure changes. In this case, the insulation is covered with moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, fixing them to the beams. After that, a solution is applied to the coating with a spatula, a plastic reinforcing mesh is embedded in it and the tiles are glued. If the heating cable is not in a bay, but glued to the grid, then its installation is simplified. Having rolled out the roll, you just have to apply glue to the surface of the base and lay the tile.

In the same way, a film warm floor is laid on wooden floors. It consists of thin mats with flexible current-carrying plates glued into them.

The minimum thickness allows you to mount infrared film floors not only under tiles and laminate, but also under linoleum and carpet.

Which floor in a wooden house is better?

The answer to this question is not unambiguous. If the cost of construction and work is at the forefront, then it is better to use electric floors. If we compare the price of energy carriers, then a water system is more profitable. To save the height of the room, a thin film floor is used.

Regarding heaters, the following should be said: foam for underfloor heating - not best material. Being in contact with a warm floor, the operating temperature of which can reach +70C, it ages, releasing toxic gas. Therefore, it is better to lay ecowool or perlite between the floor beams.

Having chosen mineral wool for insulation, it must be well insulated by wrapping it with a vapor barrier. Otherwise, warm air through gaps and leaks can carry its particles out of the underground space into the room. Under laying tiles, it is better to use a chemically neutral sheet material: cement-bonded, glass-magnesite board or gypsum fiber sheet. OSB and plywood are inferior to them in terms of environmental safety.

Wooden flooring above the warm floor should not be thicker than 21 mm. Do not forget that wood is a good thermal insulator, which reduces the efficiency of the heating system.

Warm water floor in a wooden house

A wooden house, despite the archaism of the very idea of ​​using wood as a building material, can become quite convenient and comfortable housing in the current conditions. This type of building is very convenient for giving, and the emergence of new technologies, the construction of modular wooden houses, have made wooden houses a successful and practical solution to the housing problem. Another question is what means of communication can equip a wooden residential building. If this housing is long-term and designed for long-term and permanent residence, then the heating of a residential facility comes out on top.

First of all, the strength of the structure itself confuses. Are wooden structures, including ceilings, able to cope with the installation of additional heating equipment. Judging by successful practical experience, the use of water heating systems in wooden houses is real and no less effective. Installation of the boiler and heating radiators is already a completed stage. Consider the following, is a warm water floor suitable for installation in a wooden house as a complete heating system.

The value of underfloor heating for wooden residential buildings

Wooden houses being built today are not much inferior to capital stone buildings. However, if a stone house, having a concrete foundation and reinforced concrete floors, can be equipped with any equipment and communications, the situation with wooden buildings is not so rosy. The whole problem is that from a technological point of view, a warm water floor carries a significant structural load. Not every room has a sufficient margin of safety, thanks to which complex communications can be successfully installed.

Water heating systems work due to the circulation of the coolant through a system of pipelines laid in the floor. Weight of the whole working structure warm water floors reaches high values ​​in working condition.

Can a wooden floor withstand such a weight? country house. Will the logs of the base of a wooden house withstand such a weight, will such floors be reliable and durable? So many questions are before you, but there are options that can quickly and effectively solve the problem. Flooring systems of warm water floors are techniques that have shown themselves well in practice. Underfloor heating, due to its advantages, makes wooden houses from ordinary temporary huts, full-fledged residential facilities.

• heating floors most optimally warm up the interior of the living space;
• in the absence of conversion, with such heating, the circulation of dust inside the room is excluded;
• a wooden house, sufficiently well insulated and equipped with warm water floors, is reliably protected from such a phenomenon as damp corners;
• underfloor heating saves inside a wooden house optimal mode humidity;
• with this method of heating, the likelihood of burns is completely eliminated, in contrast to the radiator heating system;
• economic indicators. Warm water floors in comparison with radiator heating by 30% reduce fuel costs associated with the preparation of the coolant;
• significant savings in internal space;
• reliability, safety and durability of heating systems based on water floors.

Speaking of wooden houses, the only drawback of such a heating system is the bulkiness of the structure itself, the duration and painstaking work. However, subject to the necessary technologies, instructions and rules, the installation of a warm floor in a wooden house will not be associated with much trouble. The result of the same work will be effective work heating equipment and significantly improved living conditions.

For reference: the underfloor heating water circuit, made of polyethylene pipes, can be used to work with an antifreeze-based coolant. This heating option is ideal for country and country houses designed for rare visits during the cold period. A pipeline filled with antifreeze is not subject to defrosting.

Ways of laying a water floor in a wooden house

The following should be said right away. A wooden house, no matter how strong it is, a priori there are no stone bearing walls and overlays. The only stone element of a wooden building can be a foundation or basement. However modern technologies small housing construction involves the minimum use of concrete work in the process of building a residential facility.

On a note: block houses are assembled within 2-3 days. All structural elements, including internal partitions and ceilings, are designed for a certain load. It is allowed only over time to equip the stone foundation, thereby giving wooden building the necessary strength, reliability and capital.

• according to the modular scheme;
• on a rack base.

Accordingly, both options can be applied during the construction of panel and block houses. Water pipes are laid in the space between the lags or on the rough floor surface resting on the logs. Modular and rack laying schemes have their own design and technological differences.

In the first case, ready-made wooden modules are used to lay the water circuit loop. In the second option, the heating pipes are mounted in the space between the boards and slats. The main feature when installing the first and second options is that you create a draft floor in which heating pipes are installed. On top of the prefabricated structure, metal heat exchange plates are laid, on which the finishing floor covering is already placed.

On a note: when using ceramic tiles or linoleum, the rough surface, together with pipes and metal plates, is additionally covered with an insulating layer of DSP boards. This measure is caused by the need to ensure uniform distribution of the load over the entire floor surface, to create conditions for uniform heat transfer between the water circuits and the finish coating.

Before starting work on the installation of underfloor heating, you will need to complete a number of mandatory steps, including the development of a heating system project and a survey of the structural elements of the building. Such a precaution is associated with the technological features of wooden buildings. Eg:

• a wooden building already shrinks within the first year. Approximately up to 5%. This remark must be taken into account when equipping underfloor heating during the construction of a wooden house;
• wood behaves differently in different climates. Excessive dryness or vice versa, high humidity causes cracking of wooden structures, the formation of rot and mold. Therefore, such houses should be built taking into account all the subtleties and nuances that protect wooden structures from negative atmospheric effects.

As for the design of the heating scheme, here one should take into account the heated area, the degree of thermal insulation of residential premises and, accordingly, the climatic conditions of the region. Neglecting these aspects, as a result of painstaking and laborious work, you can get an inefficient heating system, a warm floor, from which there will be little use.

On a note: The thermal efficiency of a residential building is one of the defining elements of a heating system. With competent actions, it is possible to achieve an increase in the efficiency of heating equipment by 15-20%. Warming wall panels, window and doorways a prerequisite for high-quality heating of the house.

TO preparatory work prior to the installation of heating floors, the assessment of the base also applies. Not every building has the necessary technological parameters, thanks to which you can immediately begin to equip the heating system. Wooden base boards, logs should lie correctly, have a “healthy” structure. Rotten areas or damaged whole fragments must be replaced with new products. An optimal distance of 60 cm is allowed between the lags. Large gaps existing between the boards, over 2 mm, are eliminated by laying heat-insulating material.

For reference: if it is visually possible to determine that the wooden flooring or structural elements have exhausted themselves, it is better to dismantle them and create new design- base.

When examining the foundation, pay attention to the following factors:

• does the wind “walk” under the floor;
• whether the logs lie evenly or at a great distance from each other;
• old boards before installation are best treated with a planer, removing a layer of old and corroded wood;
• the entire deck surface must be level. The presence of irregularities, at least up to 2 mm, is allowed.

Instructions for installing underfloor heating in wooden buildings

After preparing the base, the main task is to create the necessary floor insulation in a wooden house. Properly made insulation retain heat and direct it upwards, thereby heating the floor covering. Otherwise, you will be heating the basement or heating the ground in your garden.

A rough coating or raised floor is made in order to lay a layer of thermal insulation on it. Having nailed sheets of plywood or chipboard to the lags from below, which are covered with steam and heat-insulating film. Further, the entire internal space between the lags is filled with foam or mineral wool. Usually the thickness of the insulation layer does not exceed 100 mm. The figure clearly shows the options for mounting a water floor on a wooden structure.

Using a modular set-up scheme, you will spend much more time, but your floor will be an order of magnitude harder and stronger. You choose which scheme to use, modular or rack. And in the first and second cases, everything is decided by the level of comfort that you expect when equipping the heating system in a particular room.

The modular type of laying allows you to properly lay the water circuit, observing the required pipe pitch and layout scheme. In addition, the metal plates will be securely fixed, there is no need to lay an additional leveling layer before laying the finish coat. The modules are very convenient when equipping indoor water floors laid with a snake. A similar scheme for laying the heating pipeline is also suitable for rack type.

Important! You should know that the metal plates are laid transversely to the grooves in which the water pipe is laid.

Conclusion

As in all cases, laying underfloor heating in this case is not complete without a layer of hydro and thermal insulation. Underfloor heating can be done using metal-plastic, copper and polyethylene pipes. It is important to know what will go where. For the first floor, you can get by with copper pipes, but their cost is quite high and high temperature coolant, there is a high probability of damage to the integrity of the insulating layer.

Do-it-yourself water-heated floor in a wooden house

The main criteria for installing underfloor heating are functionality, economic feasibility, Fire safety. All these requirements are met by a water-heated floor in a wooden house.

The water floor can be the main and / or the only source of heat and additional (together with batteries). The device of a water heated floor in a wooden house quickly pays for itself: there are practically no operating costs (unlike electric floors).

The risk of fire is also less than that of an electric floor. A water source of fire can only be a boiler. But it is installed open way and equipped with control devices.

Elements and device of the system

1. Heating boiler (gas, electric, solid fuel, etc.). Most economical heating – gas boiler. It is also the most convenient: it is not required to constantly replenish fuel reserves in the furnace, unlike solid fuel boilers or wood-burning stoves.

If the house is supposed to have combined heating (batteries + floor), two heating circuits must be installed. Temperature regime different for radiators and floors: in radiators it can be 60 degrees or more, and a water-heated floor in a wooden house with wooden floors functions at a temperature of no more than 30 degrees. Otherwise, the wood will start to crack.

2. Water from the boiler to the pipes flows through the distribution manifold with control valves. If the dimensions of the house and the pipeline are small, you can limit yourself to manual adjustments. With a large length of pipes and a large number of individual circuits, a main collector with automatic adjustment is installed.

3. Circulation pump For forced filing water and a manometer to control the pressure in the system.

4. Temperature controller with temperature sensor.

5. Pipes. Optimally - metal-plastic: metal pipes(copper, stainless steel) are more expensive, and installation is more difficult, because. you will need to make a lot of welds. The metal-plastic floor is sold in a bay, it only needs to be unwound in accordance with the diagram.

An alternative to metal-plastic is polypropylene. Also sold in coils. Soldering, if necessary, is carried out with an iron for polypropylene.

The optimal thickness of the pipe is 1.6-2 centimeters.

Mounting methods

With screed. In a wooden house, this method is possible when installing the floor on the ground.

If there is a log or a subfloor, a water-heated floor is installed in a wooden house without a screed, because. the wooden parts will not support the weight of the mortar.

When installing without a screed, sheets of chipboard, OSB or waterproof plywood are used as the basis for the flooring. Installation is possible in a modular or rack way.

With the modular method, ready-made chipboards are used with locks for fastening to each other and milled grooves for laying pipes.

With the rack method, the stacker forms the channels for the pipes himself.

Another way of mounting without a screed is using polystyrene mats. Mats are slabs of PPS insulation with already equipped channels for pipes.

During installation, three layers of the cake are needed: waterproofing, insulation, heat-reflecting foil (or metal plates). These layers prevent heat from escaping into the ground or downstairs.

Preparing for installation

When mounting on the ground, a rough screed is poured at the preliminary stage. A sand and gravel cushion is poured, waterproofing (polyethylene or roofing material) is placed on it, the mortar is poured, leveled and the concrete is set.

When installing without a screed, the floor covering is removed. If the floor is in order and there is a layer of insulation under it, with which everything is also in order, installation can begin.

If the subfloor is rotten, there is no insulation between the lags - the boards are removed. If necessary, dismantle the logs.

1. Lay a waterproofing film.
2. Insulation plates are installed between the lags tightly by surprise.
3. On top - a vapor barrier film with low vapor permeability or polyethylene laminated with foil. The foil film is placed on top with a reflective surface, the vapor barrier film is placed on the rough side (outlet).
4. From above, either chipboard sheets with ready-made grooves for pipes are installed, or moisture-resistant plywood is laid, which will be the basis for mounting polystyrene foam mats.

Read what is a support-columnar foundation.

Installation

Attention: installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house is carried out in all rooms separately. One section of the floor should be no more than 40 square meters. For rooms with a larger area, two sections are made.

Foundation laying

Chipboard modules are also laid according to the scheme, connected with tongue-and-groove locks. Pipes are laid in the channels.

With the rack method, chipboard slats about three centimeters high are attached to the laid plywood (plates) in two centimeter increments. It is necessary to ensure that the grooves in the places where the pipe turns are rounded.

After mounting the base, a reflective foil layer is placed. Other options: lay heat-reflecting plates.

Pipe laying

There are two schemes for laying the working circuit: spiral and snake. The snake is led in zigzags from one wall to another, opposite. At this wall, the floor will be colder, because. as you move along the circuit, the coolant cools down.

The spiral provides uniform heating over the entire area: the first (hottest) coil is placed along the cold walls, and the cooled area is located in the center of the room, where it is warmer. From the center, the pipe is led in the opposite direction, the same turns are repeated in parallel. At the finish, they are connected to the return manifold.

A gap of at least seven centimeters should be left between the outer coil of the pipe and the walls.

Before installing the finish coat, the system must be tested for leaks: connected to a manifold, filled with water and kept for about a day.

The pipes are fastened with narrow aluminum plates laid across the groove.

If a laminate is used as a finishing cladding, a substrate is usually placed on a chipboard base. On a polystyrene base, a laminate can be laid without a substrate.

Floor installation with screed

For a finishing screed, you can use a mixture based on M-300 cement. Plasticizers and polypropylene fiber are added to the solution. Another option is to buy ready-made screed mix.

1. Lay a waterproofing layer on the rough screed.
2. Lay damper tape along all walls at the joints with the floor. If at least one wall is longer than eight meters, the tape is additionally placed in the middle of the room. This is a must, because when heated, the thermal expansion of concrete begins. In the absence of a damper, the floor will open.
3. Install heater. An approximate layer is 10 cm, the exact one depends on the heat calculation and on the characteristics of the material (density, thermal conductivity).
4. Lay reinforcing mesh.
5. The pipe is laid in turns with a step of 15-30 cm. They are attached to the grid cells with plastic clamps with a step of thirty centimeters.
6. Test the system for leaks and performance.
7. Pour the screed 5-7 centimeters. If the floor is subject to high loads, another reinforcing mesh is placed in the screed during the pouring process. Wait for the concrete to harden (about a month).
8. Lay the finish coat: laminate with or without a substrate, ceramic tiles.

Planed boards can be used instead of laminate as wood flooring, but their thermal conductivity is lower than laminates for underfloor heating.

You can not lay a parquet board, it will quickly dry out. In addition, in the production of parquet and parquet board chemical compositions are often used that reduce the environmental friendliness of the coating: when heated, it will release toxic volatile substances.

Boards should be laid with gaps to compensate for thermal expansion.

conclusions

1. You can install a water-heated floor in a wooden house with your own hands under a screed only when laying on the ground. When installing above the basement, on the second or third floor, the flooring method is used on top of the subfloor.
2. For underfloor heating and radiator heating, independent circuits are needed.
3. The number of underfloor heating sections depends on the number of heated rooms and the area of ​​each of them.
4. Under the pipes there should be a cake of waterproofing, insulation and a heat-reflecting layer.

Video about the device of a water heated floor in a wooden house.

Long burning furnace