Step by step guide to bathroom renovation. Bathroom renovation: how to quickly and beautifully create a unique style with your own hands (110 photos) Where to start bathroom renovation

The bathroom is a room with special requirements. In particular, it must be well protected from moisture and temperature fluctuations. That is why the decoration of the bathroom must be carried out in accordance with a number of rules. How to start repairing a bathroom with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

Types of repairs in the bathroom

Depending on external causes, two main types of repair work in the bathroom can be classified:

Scheduled repairs. Planned repairs can be both major and cosmetic. In the latter case, the cost step by step repair the bathroom will be relatively small - but correcting visual flaws is possible only if everything is fine with the functionality of all elements of the bathroom. Such repairs usually involve only updating the walls, ceilings And floor covering as well as mixers. The overhaul, respectively, is aimed at restoring all existing deficiencies, including serious structural defects.
Unscheduled repairs. A sudden need for a bathroom renovation may appear due to external factors. For example, there is always a risk of pipes bursting or flooding by neighbors from above - and in such situations, measures will have to be taken. In addition, unplanned repairs include a number of works related to the replacement or repair of individual elements of the bathroom ( sewer pipes, plumbing or tiles).

To understand where to start bathroom renovation, you need to decide on the type of repair - it is quite possible that the set of operations required for repair will be different.

Planning

Before starting work, you need to decide where to start repairing the bathroom - this process must be consistent. First of all, it is worth choosing a suitable design and deciding on a color scheme. Most often, the bathroom is painted in pastel colors, or a combination of two tones is used.

Tile;
Porcelain stoneware;
Mosaic;
Plastic panels.

Of course, the list of available options is not limited to the materials mentioned, so the choice is quite wide. When choosing finishing material and designing the design of the room, it will not be superfluous to take into account their compatibility with plumbing. If overhaul the bathroom involves the replacement of plumbing fixtures, then the issue of visual compatibility becomes very important.

In addition, it is necessary to measure all the dimensions of the room - height, width, length and area. Depending on these dimensions, all other elements of the room are selected, including plumbing and communications, and the amount of materials necessary for repair is purchased.

Choice of plumbing and finishing materials

When a decision has been made about what materials and plumbing will be used to equip the bathroom from scratch, you can begin to choose them. There is a wide range of different appliances and materials suitable for the bathroom on the market, so there will be no problem with this moment.

Difficulties may arise in other points, which boil down to the following list:

Before choosing, you need to carefully design the future design of the bathroom;
The dimensions of plumbing fixtures must correspond to the dimensions of the bathroom;
In order not to run into problems during work, you need to calculate in advance the required amount of finishing materials.

It is best to buy building materials and plumbing in one store - in addition to the fact that in this case it will be possible to take a whole set of identical plumbing fixtures, there is a high probability of getting a discount for bulk purchases.

Dismantling of old finishes and plumbing

When the previous stages are completed, you can do the next - preparing the premises for repair. This stage is extremely important, since the quality of installation of finishing materials and plumbing depends on it. In addition, carefully carried out preparation greatly simplifies the further renovation of the bathroom from scratch.

It is advisable to remove the sink and bathtub before repair, even if there is no need to replace them. After that, the old tile is dismantled, and work is also carried out to clean all surfaces of the room. All old coatings must be qualitatively removed - for example, the presence of a layer of paint will not allow the use of glue or new paints for finishing the room.

Laying communications

After dismantling the old coatings and finishing, you need to start replacing various communications - this moment is most suitable for this work. In addition to the sections of the pipeline located directly in the bathroom, it is also recommended to replace the vertical riser, and in some cases, the interfloor pipe sections. If the old pipes leak during operation, then another repair will be required, and this will be an extra cost that could have been avoided.

Also at this stage, you need to install the wiring. Of course, the first step is to decide where the electrical appliances will be located, and only then pull the necessary communications to them. In addition, the bathroom must have good ventilation, preferably forced.

Surface leveling

Before leveling the surfaces in the bathroom, you need to carefully examine them and understand what kind of work will be required in this particular case. In any case, the amount of work directly depends on the condition of the surfaces.

By and large, the scale of surface leveling work can be divided into two categories:

If there are no special flaws on the walls and ceiling, then ordinary putty will be enough to level them;
In case of serious surface defects, more serious repair work will be required (it is worth reading the relevant articles about leveling walls, floors and ceilings).

Surface finishing

Having completed the previous operations, you can proceed to the fine finishing of the walls and ceiling. A huge variety of materials are suitable for finishing the bathroom - from moisture-resistant paints to various mixtures or facing tiles.

For the ceiling, a suitable option would be a coating of water-based paint. This finish looks good enough and has acceptable performance. However, there are also excellent alternatives - for example, plastic panels or tension structures.

Installation of plumbing, accessories and doors

Now you can proceed to the final stage, which begins with the installation of plumbing. Old plumbing fixtures had to be dismantled for ease of repair. In addition, if the repair procedure in the bathroom does not involve the replacement of plumbing, then its timely dismantling will allow it to be used in the future - it will not be damaged during repair.

Then various accessories for the bathroom are installed - hooks, mirrors, lighting fixtures, etc. The phased renovation of the bathroom ends with the installation of the door. The need to dismantle it is determined by the same conditions as in the case of plumbing - the door will interfere with work, and it is very easy to damage it during repairs.

Conclusion

Summing up, we can draw the following conclusion - the stages of bathroom renovation should go sequentially, and there are no particular difficulties in observing the correct technology. By consistently performing all the work and paying attention to details, you can renovate the bathroom without any problems and bring it to the desired look.

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom with your own hands? This is not surprising, since the implementation of the entire repair process on your own will be much cheaper. On average, the amount of the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in repair, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to contact the specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about do-it-yourself bathroom renovation with a photo and then finally decide on your decision. In it, we will dwell in sufficient detail on the production of actions in their chronological order, indicating the materials and the approximate cost of the costs of the necessary materials.

To carry out a bathroom renovation with your own hands, you will have the following:

Choose plumbing, determine its quantity and nomenclature;
Develop a bathroom design and choose the color you need:
Calculate and purchase the necessary Decoration Materials;
Prepare the room in which the repair will be carried out;
Assess the current condition of the bathroom floor. Decide on the method of its repair and purchase materials for the work;
Repair floor. This item will include:
its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
screed replacement, under the screed rises the layer created to level the floor, and on which the flooring is usually installed.
floor insulation;
Pipeline laying;
Work with electrical wiring;
Plastering of the ceiling and walls;
Wall cladding, grouting and sealing corners;
flooring;
Installation ventilation system.
Installation of plumbing of your choice.

The time that you spend on do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is counted from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly to the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing

It is difficult to talk about specific tips here, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. We only mention that when repairing, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the preparation of the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Design stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing, as it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. So, the characteristic of the tiled wall covering depends on the shape of the washbasin. It will be impossible to specify all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are made out the same way with the same materials from the same supplier, respectively, the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. In an ordinary house, it makes no sense to think about a mixer built into the wall, since such an opportunity is laid even during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use normal commercial wood and simple steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in a place with high humidity does not justify itself. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment is tight on space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think and choose a design that you like.

estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for do-it-yourself bathroom renovation. There are a number of parameters that are essential, but which are quite difficult to figure out without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a wide range of temperature regime and high humidity, which affects both the strength of materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, then it would be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

Some parameters, you most likely will not find in the description of the material, so you should select materials that are directly intended for use in the bathroom. The materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

The price of a tile will be from 40 to 60 rubles per piece, depending on the country of origin. The quality of tiles of domestic and European manufacturers on average do not differ from each other, but European samples usually have best design. The situation for floor tiles and wall tiles is the same, the difference is only in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles apiece, however, it is recommended to use it for flooring. Unlike ordinary ceramic tiles, they have a non-slip surface and are more durable. Given the rather high traumatism of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store, you should pay attention to the condition of the surface of the tile. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of uncleaned dirt. In order to make sure the integrity of the tile you choose, lean it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the aspect ratio. If the tiles are of different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to spend time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take a few pairs and attach the edges to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be even.
Tile adhesive. Given that the installation of tiles will be carried out by you yourself - the best choice there will be a slowly drying glue, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the package. If for some reason the package does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a large-toothed trowel will most likely result in cavities under the tiles.
Templates for laying tiles. It is best to take plastic crosses, because they are easier to work with.
Tile grout. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting.
Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
Bulk floor. For the bathroom, it is preferable to use two components, this is the initial viscous filling, then comes the liquid one, for leveling. The approximate price is from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with the effect of insulation - from 640 rubles per square meter.
Teak or larch floor. If you decide to make a wooden rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels better. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
Pipes. The best option are polypropylene pipes: For cold water(PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that the work steel pipes difficult, while metal-plastic tends to leak in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes go from 45 rubles. Fittings fall into the same category. Solid plastic fittings are most preferred as this will avoid potential leaks. The transition to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to a boiler. Shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. When buying, measure the outer diameter of the pipe with a caliper. To work with pipes, diamond drills are required, if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles for a 5-liter package.
Plumbing. It all depends on your choice, let's just not skimp on quality - plumbing should serve for a long time and in good faith. When considering options for a heated towel rail, it is recommended to take a stainless steel heated towel rail. Other options are either of poor quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider buying one with an infrared sensor that automatically turns on the water when you bring your hands up to a pre-set temperature. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to cut your water costs by half, and heating energy by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on the current market value. Nevertheless, you can somehow navigate at such prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the repair of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need all of the above directly when performing work, some of the options presented are alternatives, their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

We repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials, their use will only lead to more complicated work. When purchasing materials, consider possible marriage and calculation errors: there is almost always a need for some stock. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials, add 35-40%.

Now let's get straight to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. Cast iron bath can be upgraded with acrylic or epoxy. Installing a new cast iron bath will not give any advantage in quality and service life, and its dismantling and installation of a new bath is quite time consuming. For a tin bath, in the absence of enamel chips or other serious damage, an acrylic liner can be used. If the tin bath is in poor condition, do not hesitate and choose a new one. To update the bathroom, you do not need special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity, the latter being cheaper but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert on your own - it is made at the factory, where you will have to order it, the installation technology is as follows:

thoroughly clean and degrease the bath;
insert the insert and check the correct alignment of the drain holes;
recheck and apply glue to the inside of the tub.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water supply from flush tank. If you are not going to move out for the duration of the repair, then it makes sense to run water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, the main thing is not to forget to turn off the water for a period of absence or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to do without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Proceed to dismantle everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. Do not touch the sewer system at this stage yet, muffle the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power in the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the surfaces of the bathroom. This part of the work is associated with garbage and dust, work with glasses, a respirator and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with closed door or a film in the opening.

Work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles, use a hammer drill with a chisel for concrete. If cement mortar was used to fasten it, then you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working with the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then the puncher can damage it when cleaning the cement substrate, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there is reason to save the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and will reduce the cost of overhauling floors.

For the top layer of plaster and old paint a drill with a 80-100 mm round metal brush is used. In old houses, the plaster is often fragile, this must be removed to the ground, whether it be brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum-fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. Work will increase, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it can come to collapse. Take care of the supports.

Cleaning completed, old tiles removed. Time to mop the floors. After wet cleaning, you can begin to inspect the installed screed. The presence of at least one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the floor in the bathroom. Of course, if the damage is small, then this can be avoided by using a self-leveling floor layer. But more on that later. First of all, consider the need to remove the old screed and proceed with the waterproofing of the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: it is aquaizol or its polyester analogue. Ordinary film for the bathroom is not applicable, moisture will seep in one way or another, while Aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should be led to the wall at least a quarter meter (25 cm) based on weight. 4000 liters of water for 10 square meters is the tensile strength of the coating. Folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued together with mastic or welded using an industrial hair dryer. Before doing such welding, practice, it's not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed with the installation of a new screed. In assessing the possible costs, already mentioned desired material. This is a glass-magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to lay the reinforcing mesh and install beacons without delay. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage, the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. There are special requirements for the screed cement mortar:

brand of cement from the 400th; sand must be quartz;
sand and cement are related to each other in a ratio of 4: 1;
the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
to water you need to add PVA emulsion in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The formation of the screed is carried out along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. A tiled floor requires a level base surface for its flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with sewer pipes, as sealants with sealant are assembled quite quickly, one day is enough. Welded joints are not made on sewer pipes. After that, you can proceed with peace of mind to soldering water pipes.

How to lay them? Don't do it in the open aesthetic pleasure it will bring few people, to make strobes, if you are not familiar with the concept - this is a groove in the wall, laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, the reinforcement cannot be broken, and she herself does not make a strobe will give. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, with the help of silicone on the completed slope, glue the facing tiles in the same color to the future look of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be completed even after the work is completed. If necessary, silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. With a standard bathroom layout, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without strobes, but this is only for vertically installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and a couple more if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. Pipes should be foamed in strobes, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. The process of installing polypropylene pipes is very simple, the main advantage is that after thirty minutes from the end of the welding of the last connection, you can use your piping system. uh

Remember, butt joints are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

For welding joints, you will need: a machine for socket welding of pipes made of polypropylene; nozzles for used pipes; pipe cutter; shaver, beveler. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It is worth laying it with a double-insulated wire tightened into a corrugation. The most commonly used is plastic, the price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall with construction tape; as already mentioned, it cannot be cut off. The bathroom is a cramped room, so we recommend using not a trowel, but half a rubber ball to apply plaster. It can be used for all kinds of work with alabaster, plaster or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work that way.

The plaster itself must necessarily be carried out along the lighthouses - a flat surface is required for subsequent wall cladding. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get at any hardware store. Making lighthouses yourself is not worth it, you will only waste your time and hardly be able to achieve a flat surface. The plastering sequence is normal, to the floor from the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its fluctuations in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to comply with the temperature regime, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet, unlike the floor, it will be bonded to the LSU ceiling surface with silicone or mounting adhesive. At the time of work, use the slats as supports, somewhere around 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them until the glue has dried.

Having finished with the insulation, we move on to glossing, although this gloss carries a functional value like condensate. good option is a material like plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant adhesive, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not cause collapse - since the boards are interconnected, forming a single integral structure. Upon completion of work with the ceiling, you will proceed to the wall cladding. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

processing the wrong side of the PVA material with an emulsion;
laying itself is carried out using mounting glue or building silicone;
the crest of the tongue, it is understood as the protrusions due to which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such a connection itself, a thin layer of glue is applied, its drips must be immediately removed.

For silicone, table vinegar is suitable, for glue, solvent. Please note - the last two boards of the laminate should be laid together, fold them into a house and insert, pressing the joint until it clicks into place. Do not forget about the props before the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under the ceiling sheathing. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. When finished with the ceiling sheathing, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options as well. But independent production stretch ceilings is often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do so, please review the selection criteria. A slatted ceiling is also possible - also a very common option, but its manufacture is the topic of a separate article.

For wall cladding, tiles are usually used. Porcelain stoneware has similar properties, but is more expensive, while the advantages that were mentioned when choosing floor tiles do not matter for walls. Extended bathroom wall covering plastic panels, it is quite cheap and meets the rules of hygiene, but in this article we will not consider how to work with such material.

When laying tiles on the walls, the cutting of the seams should be observed. For this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles on the glue and immediately removed, as described above. The application of glue is carried out with longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. There are no voids under the tiles, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you install should be tapped side by side with a rubber mallet from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will fall on the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond crown. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin plastic film is applied to the silicone, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove the silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can also be covered with decorative overlay due to the same silicone. On the plane, the cutting of the seams is carried out with a special composition, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is optional in this procedure - the streaks are removed. Do not cut the seams with your finger - irregularities that are not visible to the eye will appear inside the seam, in which dirt tends to accumulate. The technology of laying tiles for walls and floors does not differ in itself, about small features for gender will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown with a larger diameter than pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure out the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

For the floor, there are two options for tiles - the reasons why porcelain stoneware is better than tiles or wooden floors have already been explained.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will cost more, but the result is more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove, the laying procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving an indent from the wall of 2-2.5 centimeters. This space is designed for the swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities, fill the gaps with polyurethane foam before installing the skirting board. A wooden floor coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish will last a very long time.

For tiles, installation should be done from the door, so that the cut tiles are under the slope or in the bathroom, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has set under the other slabs so as not to knock down the work already done. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles fit together.

First of all, inspect the box, removed in preparation for repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It would be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows into winter time. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system, this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment, and prevent the appearance of fungus on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often, for new products, you can even find instructions for the sequence of actions for its installation. Your actions include installing a bathtub (it will not be possible to carry it out on your own, without an assistant) or a shower cabin, as well as a sink. Then there are mixers, then a water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

In the bathroom, it is permissible to mount such stationary electrical appliances as exhaust fan, the cord must be three-core, have a protective conductor and a euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and a ceiling lamp that requires a waterproof design. A washing machine is a topic for a separate discussion, since it does not apply to stationary appliances.

All the necessary steps for making repairs in the bathroom with their own hands were dismantled. Watch the video, where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention the bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and about twice as much labor than for the repair of two individual rooms, this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is time consuming, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this time-consuming and rather long procedure to specialists. They definitely know how to do things right. But you should still be familiar with all aspects of a bathroom renovation, for a higher chance of completing the entire renovation process successfully and without complications.

At least after reading this article, you will be able to control the work of the performers to whom you decide to entrust the repair in the bathroom. On the other hand, if you are sure of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be significantly reduced. For a more successful do-it-yourself bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.

One of the most visited rooms in any house or apartment is the bathroom. That is why its repair must be approached with special attention and care. In this room there are the largest temperature and humidity fluctuations, which can negatively affect the overall finish. To get a cozy and functional bathroom, you should choose high-quality and reliable Construction Materials. For a rational and proper organization of bathroom renovation, it is necessary to clearly understand where to start restoration work.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and performing any actions, it is worth deciding on the type of repair. There are such types of bathroom restoration:

Unscheduled repair - carried out as a result of an unforeseen emergency(flooding by neighbors or pipe break). At the same time, you can finish with minor cosmetic actions or more global ones with the replacement of communication systems (replacement of pipes for supplying water, sewerage, updating tiles, etc.).
The planned repair may also differ in scale and material investments of the owner. Of course, a cosmetic finish will cost much less than a major restoration. In this case, everything depends on the technical condition of the premises and financial possibilities.

In any case, bathroom renovation requires preparation and calculation of all stages of work. To do this, you need to hire a professional estimator who can accurately calculate everything. Only after that you can negotiate with the construction team. But this is not the only option. If you have free time and minimal building knowledge, you can carry out all the restoration work yourself.

It must be understood that the payment for the work of builders is approximately 50% of the price of the building materials used. Accordingly, do-it-yourself bathroom renovation will cost at least one and a half times cheaper. It is necessary to prepare for the repair of the bathroom with all responsibility, since it will require not only a lot of knowledge in the construction industry, but also practical skills.

Preparing for a bathroom renovation begins with a study of the prices of building materials and necessary equipment. This will allow you to get a preliminary cost of all work.

Calculation of prices and costs for bathroom renovation

Almost every owner who plans to renovate a bathroom or bathroom asks a completely logical question - where to start? Most optimal solution is the selection of building materials and budgeting. All this will allow you to find out how much each stage will cost. Building materials for a bathroom or bathroom must be selected with great care, as they must meet many requirements.

Of particular importance are the coefficients of moisture absorption and thermal expansion, since large differences in moisture and temperature are observed in this room. Not the last factor is the porosity of the material, since this affects the sanitary and hygienic safety of the entire room. Accordingly, you should not count on the purchase of very cheap materials, because otherwise you will have to re-repair.

It is rather difficult to select the exact parameters that the materials must meet. In addition, it is almost impossible for a non-specialist to understand the huge assortment. Because of this, it is worth choosing building materials that are specially made for bathrooms or for exterior decoration. Approximate prices for the necessary components for the repair of the bathroom:

floor tile domestic production - from 40 rubles / piece with a size (30x30), foreign collections are more expensive - from 60 rubles / piece. As a rule, European models are distinguished by the best decorative elements.
Wall tiles have the same cost as floor tiles.
Can be used for finishing porcelain stoneware, its price starts from 50 rubles / piece.
As consumables are glue, grout and cross patterns. This is another 50% of the cost of tiles per unit area.
Laminate boards - from 300 rubles / piece.
Self-leveling floors - from 220 rubles / 10 liters.
Hardwood or teak floor - from 500 rubles per square.
Polypropylene pipes for cold water - from 24 rubles / meter.
Reinforced polypropylene pipes for hot water- from 35 rubles / meter.
50 mm sewer pipes - from 45 rubles.
Stop valves and fittings make up about 60% of the price of all pipes.

These are indicative prices for the most necessary materials when renovating a bathroom. By comparing the area of the floor, walls, ceiling and induced cost, you can approximately calculate the total cost of restoration work. When making calculations, the following must be taken into account:

The use of cheaper materials can lead to difficulties and delay the work.
A reserve of 3-5% should be made for waste and battle. For example, if your area needs 300 pieces of tiles, then it is better to buy 310 or 315 pieces.
Similar actions should be done when buying putty, cement, sand, silicone, etc.
Depending on the size of the bathroom and the degree of complexity of all restoration work, it will take from 2 weeks to 3 months. This is with the condition independent work. If you hire a team of professional builders, things will go much faster.
As for plumbing fixtures, their choice depends on design solution and material resources of the owner.

Adviсe

In addition, experts can give a lot of good advice in this area. So, when hiring a construction team, you should also ask about the price of finishing materials. If they are professionals in their field who have great experience in this area, they will have connections with hardware stores, where they have discounts.

Another useful advice regarding the choice of heated towel rail, the most the best option for price and quality are stainless steel products. To really save water and electricity, you need to buy modern mixer with motion sensor. It turns on only when hands are raised and delivers water at a pre-set temperature. This is far from the cheapest option, but it allows you to save water consumption up to 50% and electricity up to 40%.

As you know, the bathroom is a warm room with constantly high humidity levels, which is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and microorganisms dangerous to human life. Because of this, you should not use structures on the crate, since such niches will sooner or later become a breeding ground for infection.

Based on all the tips and recommendations above, you can choose high-quality building materials at the best price.

Bathroom renovation: where to start. Sequence of work

To spend quality repair in the bathroom for the shortest possible time and affordable price, it is worth carrying out all the manipulations sequentially. Step by step action plan:

The choice of models and the number of plumbing fixtures that you plan to install.

Creation design idea and color choice.

Preparation of estimates for the purchase of finishing materials.

Preliminary preparation of the premises.

Inspection of the condition of the floor and the choice of options for its repair.

Floor repair: insulation, screed replacement, waterproofing.

Laying pipes for water supply and sewerage.

Electrical wiring.

Wall and ceiling decoration.

Floor finishing.

Wall cladding, grouting, sealing corners.

Installation of a ventilation system.

Installation of plumbing fixtures.

This sequence of work will optimize the entire repair process and understand what needs to be done at a particular stage. We will go over each item in more detail below.

Starting a bathroom renovation

Design and plumbing

This is the very first and important stage in the renovation of the bathroom, since the design also depends on the choice of plumbing fixtures. It must be understood that not only the appearance of the room depends on the model of the sink, toilet bowl or bathroom, but also the accuracy of laying all communication systems. For example, a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, while at the same time it requires the use of perfectly smooth tiles without relief. Otherwise, stains and stains of dirt will remain on the walls. Another option to simplify pipe laying is to install a faucet on the bathtub.

It is impossible to list all the nuances and subtleties. Even in houses of the same type with the same dimensions, you can use various materials, as well as their combination, which, ultimately, will bring a special appearance and cost difference within 20%. Because of this, it is worth carefully considering the layout and design.

It is also worth understanding that not every idea can be translated into reality in city apartments. For example, to install a mixer built into the wall, you will have to hammer bearing walls which is simply unacceptable.

Bathroom Renovation Materials

Pipes

Today almost no one uses metal constructions, since plastic products are more reliable and affordable. The most optimal option for the bathroom are polypropylene pipes. Sometimes metal-plastic analogies are used, but they are more relevant for the heating system in the house. In addition, polypropylene welds are more reliable than metal-plastic fittings. Because of this, PP pipes can be built into the wall without fear of an accident.

To supply water to the bathroom and create a sewerage system, it is necessary to use pipes made of polypropylene or PVC. Due to this, you can save the budget, simplify the installation process and get really durable structures that require minimal maintenance.

Fittings and fittings for plastic pipes

When creating a pipe system, it is worth using special couplings, fittings for soldering and fastening polypropylene pipes to each other. It is worth noting that there are a huge number of adapters that allow you to combine different materials. Yes, modern plastic pipes can be reliably connected to metal counterparts. When connecting to metal, it is necessary to use shut-off valves, which are soldered into plastic. All this helps to avoid system leakage.

Tile

For the bathroom, the best option for finishing material is tile, since it has excellent characteristics of resistance to humidity and temperature changes. Also unpretentious in care. It is better to use porcelain stoneware as a floor covering. This material is slightly more expensive than conventional tiles and has several advantages. First of all, it is high strength and resistance to stress.

In addition, porcelain stoneware, even with a smooth surface, is not slippery, which significantly reduces the degree of injury.

Bathroom tiles are subject to high demands not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also from a hygienic point of view. At first glance, inconspicuous dirt or specks can become a further breeding ground for bacteria and microbes. Because of this, you should not save on the quality of this building material.

Glue and tools

When starting to lay tiles in the bathroom, you must use a slow drying adhesive - 12-24 hours. This will allow timely elimination of small flaws in self-assembly and improve the quality of the finish.

It is also worth choosing a spatula with a tooth depth, which is indicated in the recommendations on the adhesive package. If such information is not available, spatulas with a tooth height of 3-6 mm should be used. You should not use a coarse-toothed trowel, as high adhesive rusts will lead to the formation of cavities under the tile.

During installation, you will also need a diamond drill for laying pipes and a tile cutter. Do not forget about the templates - plastic crosses. For grouting, use a special trowel or an economical option - a piece of electrical cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm. The finishing of the seams is carried out using flannel rags.

The rest of the tool is selected according to standard construction criteria.

Room preparation

How to start preparing a bathroom for renovation. First of all, carry out the dismantling of old plumbing fixtures. The pipes from the supply of cold and hot water are preliminarily disconnected. To avoid problems, shut off the water on the risers.

After that, everything is removed from the bathroom. The result is an empty room with bare walls and floor. The heating system is also turned off and plugs are placed. Next, you need to turn off the power supply in the junction box. For lighting, you will have to use portable lamps and extension cords.

After completing all the above manipulations, you can begin to clean the surfaces, starting from the ceiling. If the repair is carried out in the "brezhnevka", then you may be in for a surprise - an insulating box of the room with a GPV, which must be removed. All work should be done very carefully. To avoid the collapse of the ceiling, props are used.

Old wall and floor tiles are removed with a chisel or perforator. Surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned of cement or adhesive residues. The most dusty and unpleasant stage is the removal of the top layer of plaster. To do this, you must use a drill with a metal brush of 80-100 millimeters. If the old finish is loose, it must be removed to brick or concrete.

Where to start renovating the floor in the bathroom

Initially, an audit of the condition of the floor is carried out, which will determine the scope of work. After removing the tiles with a perforator, it is necessary to remove the remains of the cement substrate. If the base is very strong, it can only be removed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Inspection of the old screed will allow you to determine whether a complete replacement is necessary or it is enough to make a new fill and alignment. The latter option will save time and money on repairs, but it is possible only if the old substrate is in satisfactory condition. In addition, self-leveling floors in a bathroom with a small size are the surest solution. It must be remembered that the thickness of such a floor must be at least 30 mm.

Bathroom floor waterproofing

You can not use ordinary film in this room. The best option is aquaizol or analogues from polyester. Today it is the most reliable material for the bathroom and bathroom.

When installing a waterproofing layer, the layers are glued together using mastic or welded with a special industrial hair dryer. The insulating layer must be laid on the walls for at least 25 centimeters with folds in the corners. Only after that you can fill the floor and form a new screed.

self-leveling floor

For a self-leveling floor, a two-component composition should be taken: the initial fill and a viscous layer. After that comes the leveling liquid layer.

A new floor screed must be created with modern and quality materials. Expanded clay should not be used as a heater, as it is very hygroscopic. Styrofoam concrete is also not suitable for the bathroom. The most optimal option is glass-magnesite plates. They have high strength, which allows them to be mounted directly on the reinforcing mesh.

For a high-quality floor screed in the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account some features:

Cement must have a grade of at least 400.
It is necessary to use only sifted quartz sand.
The ratio of sand to cement is 4:1.
The volume of water is equal to the amount of cement.
Also, 10% of the total volume of the PVA emulsion is added to the water.
The general formation of the screed is carried out by beacons with a layer thickness of at least 40 mm.
After leveling, dotirka is carried out with a smooth trowel.

It should be noted that a new cement-sand screed must dry for at least 40 days. Only after the expiration of this period can the repair work be continued.

Where to start laying communications in the bathroom during the repair?

Open pipes in the bathroom significantly worsen the appearance of the room, and chasing the walls to hide them is quite tedious and dusty. If we talk about a block house, then such a procedure is simply impossible, since the reinforcement in the slabs will not make it possible to make the necessary niches. In addition, sewer pipes do not have welded joints and must be accessible for inspection in case of blockages.

Pipe laying

Coming out of the above features, all pipes must be run along the bottom of the room in one bundle and closed with special slopes. In finishing, the slopes covering the pipes can be tiled. In addition, these structures are best made removable for quick access. You will also need small strobes, especially for vertical pipes that lead to mixers or a boiler.

Replacing the pipeline should start with the sewer system. Drain pipes are assembled quite quickly with the help of rubber seals and sealant. You can lay them out in one day. After that, the polypropylene water supply pipes are soldered. For the heating system and heated towel rail, it is worth using metal-plastic pipes, which bend perfectly and are also settled in niches. As an additional protection, strobes with pipes can be foamed.

Installation of electrical wiring

As mentioned earlier, the bathroom has high humidity, which puts forward special requirements for materials, especially for the electrical system. The most optimal and reliable option is to use double-insulated wires that are tightened into a protective corrugation. High-quality insulation will create a reliable and safe electrical supply system.

Bathroom renovation: where to start plastering

The process of finishing with plaster should be carried out along the beacons, which will allow you to get perfectly flat surfaces for finishing cladding. To do this, it is necessary to apply two layers: starting and finishing. In this case, you can not save on materials.

It should be noted that the waterproofing apron should not be cut, it must be glued to the wall with tape and covered with a layer of putty. There are no special recommendations and features for finishing; it is carried out, as in other rooms, from ceiling to floor. It is better to apply the plaster mix in portions.

Bathroom ceiling insulation

Even in very warm houses ceiling insulation in the bathroom or bathroom is a must, as this will reduce the amount of condensate. As you know, excessive moisture is the primary cause of repair. As for the floor, it is worth mounting a LSU layer on the ceiling, which is attached with mounting glue or silicone. For reliable fastening, props are used, one per meter of area.

Features of filing the ceiling of the bathroom

The ceiling is the most vulnerable spot. This requires a warm and beautiful design, with high resistance to condensation. Because of this, the best option is plastic lining or ceiling laminate. Mounting Features:

The laying of the material is carried out using building silicone or mounting adhesive.
When mounting each next board, a thin layer of glue is applied to the tongue of the lock. Any spills are removed immediately with a rag.
Latest boards ceiling covering they lay it in a house, and after pressing the middle, they snap into place and fall into place.
Before the glue dries, rack supports are used.

These are reliable structures, since they are not only glued, but also connected with tongue and groove locks, which makes it possible to form a one-piece shield. It should be noted that the ceiling finish is carried out before the wall cladding. This is necessary so that the entire ceiling structure is supported by the ends of the wall tiles. All this guarantees a tight and reliable design.

Where to start finishing the bathroom floor

The most successful solution for the floor is porcelain tiles. It is glued end-to-end, without seams. Any spilled adhesive should be cleaned up immediately. A layer of glue is applied in longitudinal strokes with a spatula. For a 30x30 tile, the consumption should be 0.25-0.35 sq.m.

Laying starts from the door so that the cut parts are hidden under the bathtub or the slope of the pipes. The last row with cut tiles should be laid after the main part has dried, so as not to lose the accuracy of the entire coating.

Each laid tile must be tapped with a rubber mallet. Thus, they sit well on the glue and move to the free edge. To avoid voids, glue rusts are made shallow and parallel.

Another option for the bathroom is a wooden floor. Such designs are quite warm, and it is even pleasant to step on it with bare feet. Due to the elasticity of the material, it can withstand baths with great weight, which gives another plus in the use of wood. Nevertheless, it is necessary to understand that the installation of such a floor requires more material costs and time.

The best option for the bathroom is larch or teak. Initially, the material is impregnated with PVA emulsion, and acrylic varnish is used as a finish. All this guarantees durability and quality of a design. For installation, grooved materials are used, which are laid similar to the ceiling, and leave an indent of 25 millimeters from the walls. The gap near the wall will allow the wood to move freely when it swells. Before installing the skirting boards, the gap can be filled with polyurethane foam.

Where to start cladding bathroom walls

The best material in terms of price and quality for the bathroom is tile. Also recently, plastic paneling has gained popularity. It is an inexpensive and hygienic material.

When installing wall tiles, the seams are cut; for this, template crosses are used when shrinking onto the glue. The technology is practically no different from the installation of floor tiles. In the tiles through which pipes and electric wires will pass, corresponding holes are made in advance with a diamond crown.

After the glue has hardened, the corners of the tiles are sealed with silicone. After applying the sealant, a piece of cable is applied, pressed and immediately removed. Due to this, silicone perfectly penetrates into the corner, and the seam itself receives a smooth and concave surface. Any spills should be removed immediately with a rag soaked in vinegar.

On the planes, it is also necessary to process the seams with a special compound. At the same time, the crosses are taken out, and the seams are filled with material. To avoid irregularities and errors, you should use a special tool or the same cable.

Installation of electrical, plumbing and ventilation in the bathroom

Installation of plumbing fixtures involves the following steps:

Installation of a sink, bathtub or shower.
Installation of mixers.
Connection of water heaters (if necessary).
Replacement of meters for cold and hot water.

As for the installation of the ventilation system, quite often the box removed before repair can be reused. Cleaning and painting will restore the original look. To increase the efficiency of the system, it is worth installing a flapper valve that will not allow cold air to enter the room in winter. If you have free money, you can install more modern systems ventilation, which abound in hardware stores.

The bathroom should have a minimum amount of electrical appliances, since high humidity can disrupt their functionality or even threaten the health of the owner. The stationary set includes a ceiling lamp, an exhaust fan. Of course, in reality, each owner sets large quantity devices, the main thing is that they have excellent protection against moisture.

Concerning washing machine, then it does not apply to stationary appliances, and its installation is carried out in conjunction with the bathroom.

Conclusion

Doing your own bathroom remodeling can save you a lot of money. But in parallel with this, unprofessional actions lead to errors in the implementation of certain stages. Because of this, it must be said that the options for restoration work depend on the owner himself and his financial capabilities. The main thing is that you already know where to start renovating the bathroom.

Many home masters do not know where to start repairing the bathroom and in what sequence to carry out such work. We have prepared detailed and understandable instructions.

The room in which we take water procedures is considered very specific. Serious humidity and temperature fluctuations are constantly present here, water flows in large volumes in it. It is clear that for the repair of such a room it is necessary to select special materials that can withstand all negative influences. To finish the premises of interest to us, they usually choose:

plastic panels;
porcelain stoneware;
tiles (for walls and floors).

These materials have the required qualities that allow them to be used in a room where there is steam and high temperature.

Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels

In addition, the bathroom should have a special atmosphere that promotes relaxation of a person. So, you need to correctly think over the design of this room and choose it correctly. color solution. Most often, bathrooms are made in pastel colors that do not irritate a person, but, on the contrary, soothe him. nervous system after a busy day. Professional designers recommend finishing bathrooms with products in beige, blue, peach, and blue shades.

Thus, bathroom renovation should begin with the preparation of a design project, the selection and purchase of the required materials. At this stage, you will need to foresee a lot of little things and purchase a lot of various products, ranging from sewer pipes and glue for installing tiles to shutoff valves and a heated towel rail.

Now you need to decide on the scope of work and make a plan for their implementation. Subsequence self repair bathroom, as a rule, such:

Preparing the room for renovations.
Analysis of the state of the existing floor covering and the choice of technology for its restoration or complete replacement.
Floor repair, insulation and waterproofing.
Installation of sewer and water pipes.
Laying electrical wiring.
Plastering of ceiling and wall surfaces, their sheathing with the selected material and insulation.
Installation of an efficient ventilation system.
Installation of sanitary equipment.

The above sequence will allow you to spend a minimum of time on giving the room for water procedures perfect look.

Where to start preparing the described premises for its complete transformation with your own hands? Of course, from the dismantling of all plumbing fixtures installed in it, as well as furniture (if any), lighting fixtures, mirrors and hinged structures. If you are doing a major bathroom renovation, be sure to remove the faucets and faucets.

Removing old bathroom tiles

After that, proceed to remove the old finishing materials. Remove lining from walls and ceilings, knock down ceramic tiles(along with the layer of glue that held it), wash off the paint. With a perforator, preparing the bathroom for good repair goes much faster - feel free to knock down everything that leaves from the ceiling and walls. Your task is to get to the brick or panel masonry and floor slabs.

After such actions, it will be necessary that you "exposed" and carefully treat them with primers. They should be chosen wisely. Do not forget that now there are a variety of primers - bioprotective, hydrophobic, contact, increasing adhesion, strengthening. If you do not know what kind of composition you need to purchase, be sure to consult a specialist. Real help in this matter is often provided by consultants of good hardware stores.

The next step in preparing the bathroom is the revision of the flooring. When the old screed showed its best during operation (for example, you forgot to turn off the water, it flowed for a couple of hours, while not even a drop of moisture leaked to the neighbors below), leave it. If the screed has clearly served its purpose, it must be removed.

This operation is performed by a puncher with a chisel. With these tools, you can also remove the old cement substrate under the tile. Important point! If you do not touch the old screed, it is better to clean the substrate with a grinder equipped with a cleaning bowl-shaped circle (it is usually called a diamond cup). The cost of such a device is quite high. But it will always come in handy for a master who does all the housework with his own hands.

Now you can sweep out all the dirt and debris and proceed directly to repair work.

screened quartz sand;
cement M500 (you can also take M400);
PVA emulsion;
water.

The ratio of cement to sand is 1 to 4. Water needs to be mixed as much as cement. It is most convenient to form a screed with your own hands using marker beacons. The mixture is applied with a layer of the order of 4–5 cm, rubbed with a building rule, after which it must be carefully smoothed out with a polyurethane foam or stainless steel floor to an ideal state (no cracks, swell and other defects). Very important! A screed made on the basis of sand and cement must not be touched for 40 days. During this time, no work can be done in the bathroom.

Creating a new concrete floor screed

Waterproofing a room with high humidity is best done with materials made of polyester or aquaizol. Do not use ordinary waterproof film for this purpose. Hydro insulating material lay as carefully as possible, the joints between its individual parts are connected in two ways:

Building hair dryer.
Adhesive mastic, which has a special composition.

On the walls, waterproofing is brought in by 25–30 centimeters. Note that cuts in the moisture-proof film are not allowed in the corners of the room. It is better to bend the insulating material, make folds. But in no case do not cut the film.

It is almost impossible to see open sewer pipelines in apartments these days. Such communications spoil the whole look of the bathroom, nullify all the tricks of designers. Chasing the walls in order to hide the pipes is also not an option. This procedure is very tedious, dusty and really long.

Installation of pipelines in the bathroom

For this reason, sewer pipes are now most often mounted according to a special technique - they are launched along the bottom in a bundle, and then masked with galvanized slopes. The latter can then be easily glued with silicone tiles (facing). The silicone composition is also used for fixing the slope from the floor surface and to the wall.

Unfortunately, bathroom renovations cannot be done without shaving. In any case, you will need to make two strobes for cases when a separate faucet is installed on the washbasin, or one if a common faucet is used. One thing reassures - the length of the strob will be minimal. In addition, they are located vertically. It is relatively easy to punch them with your own hands, which cannot be said about horizontal strobes.

For a heated towel rail, it is desirable to install metal-plastic pipes. It is not worth looking for other options these days. Such tubular products are ideal in operation. They can be easily bent downhill using transition fittings.

But for the cold water supply system in the bathroom, polypropylene pipes (PPN) are more suitable. They are easily welded into a solid and reliable monolithic structure, and then hidden in the walls. It should be said right away that it is advisable to purchase fittings for such pipes from solid plastic. It is not advisable to use metal reinforcing elements. They can leak at any moment. But sealed plastic will never let water through.

Installation of the pipeline should begin with the installation of sewer pipes. Using sealant and seals, you will spend no more than one day on their assembly. After that, feel free to install polypropylene products for cold water and solder them. Be sure to blow out mounting foam pipes in grooves. So you will be sure that the pipeline does not fog up. Yes, and heat loss in this case will be significantly reduced. Follow the recommended piping sequence and your bathroom renovation will go faster.

Electrical wiring is carried out with a cable protected by a double insulating layer. It is desirable to place the wire in a metal or plastic corrugation. It is better to use a metal sheath, as it shields the wiring perfectly.

Having dealt with communications, proceed to the processing of wall surfaces. performed by two compositions - starting (it has increased tenacity) and finishing. The latter perfectly levels the treated surface. It is necessary to plaster from the ceiling to the floor.

Plastering the walls in the bathroom

The following stages of repair work:

Insulation and ceiling lining. Thermal insulation is recommended to be made in the form of a pie, consisting of two glass-magnesium sheets and a heater placed between them. Sheathing can be made with clapboard (plastic) or laminated boards, which are fixed to the ceiling with building silicone or strong mounting glue.
Laying tiles on the floor. The sequence of the operation is as follows - mount the products on the glue, starting from the door, tap each tile with a hammer (rubber). All cut rows should be laid last and after the adhesive under the remaining rows has completely cured.
Wall covering. It is produced with plastic panels, porcelain stoneware, ordinary tiles.

The last stages of work are cleaning the ventilation duct (or installing a new one), installing a sink, bath (shower booth), faucets, water meters. If you were able to do all the previous operations, the placement of plumbing will pass without difficulty. There are no special tricks here.

Here, in principle, is the entire step-by-step plan for self-repairing the bathroom. You just need to start implementing it and after a while enjoy the new look of your water treatment room.

If you decide to do your own bathroom renovation, it is important to know the sequence of bathroom renovation. One step must follow the other, because the violation of the order of operations leads to errors that appear during operation.

Preparation

Before proceeding with the repair in the bathroom, you need to determine the scope of work and roughly calculate the costs that await you. The easiest way is to make a list of questions. By answering them, you will have an idea of the work that is needed. Here is a sample list of questions:

Only after you answer these questions, you can roughly estimate how much the repair will cost you. But this is without finishing materials.

Choice of finishes

The next stage of the bathroom renovation is the choice of finishing materials. The most common option is tiles on the walls and on the floor. This finishing method is popular as it is durable and easy to clean. But the cost of such finishing is high. There are cheaper options, but no less interesting. For example, on the floor you can or. Walls can be painted, pasted over with special wallpaper,.

Not fewer options for decorating the ceiling. The standard way of finishing is a bleached or painted ceiling. But recently, suspension or tension systems have become more popular. They allow you to hide communications, although they take a few centimeters in height. Ceilings in the bathroom can be:

Depending on the type of ceiling, the sequence of repairs in the bathroom changes. When choosing stretch ceiling, it is done last. After everyone else Finishing work Finished, doors installed. The plasterboard ceiling, as well as bleached or painted plaster, is finished simultaneously with the walls or a little earlier - so that whitewash or paint does not fall on the walls. Suspension systems (except drywall) are assembled after finishing the walls.

Drawing up a plan and procedure

After you have decided on all these issues, have chosen plumbing and finishing materials, you begin to draw up a plan. After all the old decoration has been removed, the dimensions of the room are measured with an accuracy of up to a centimeter, and the dimensions are transferred to the plan. On this plan, all communications are drawn, distances to all points of their exit are drawn, plumbing and furniture are drawn on a scale. After all, the location of the outlets of the water supply, sewerage depends on the position of the plumbing and its size. The following is the work plan:

This step by step plan bathroom renovation. There is only one caveat: when to install doors. Usually door frame put after they prepare the walls for decoration. In this case, the wall decoration will fit close to the box. This is important if platbands are not provided from the inside. The door leaf can be hung later - after all the "dirty" work is completed or immediately, but protected with a thick plastic wrap. Otherwise, it is desirable to follow the sequence of repairs in the bathroom without changes.