Original brick ovens for the house. Do-it-yourself brick oven. Video. Learning to lay a small stove

Modern brick stoves for wood-fired cottages perfectly warm the room and do not dry the air. Every summer resident can build such a structure, if you approach the project implementation process correctly. In addition to the fact that wood stoves serve as a source of heat in the house, they cook meals. Firewood, as a source of fuel, is a cheap and, most importantly, environmentally friendly material, which is not difficult to get in the countryside.

What are they?

Brick ovens for a wood-burning house, despite the presence of modern electric fireplaces, yet remain relevant in many country mansions. A similar design is being built according to drawings and diagrams, which are not difficult to find. fits perfectly into any interior. The construction of such a structure in the house has several advantages:

Wood burning stoves long time retain heat in the room and do not cool as quickly as metal devices.
The heat from the device spreads evenly over the entire area of the room, simultaneously warming up the neighboring rooms.
During construction, you can independently calculate the consumption of materials and heat transfer.
- source fresh air and healthy atmosphere.

Types of structures

There are several types of summer or winter wood-burning stove for the home, each of which has unique characteristics and construction schemes. The main types of devices:

Heating. The main task of such furnaces is to heat the room as quickly and efficiently as possible in order to create comfortable conditions for people to live. The size of the structures is selected individually depending on the needs of the customer.
Cooking. The design is also called a food oven for the kitchen. In such devices, various dishes are prepared. Some projects involve one whole system, which greatly enriches the functionality.

What are they made of and what tools are needed?

Before starting construction, it is important to check the presence of all tools and materials for the job. It is quite difficult for beginners to lay furnaces alone, therefore it is recommended that the entire process be supervised by an experienced person in construction. To build a fireplace stove with your own hands, you need the following inventory:

shovel;
trowel;
roulette;
building level;
hammer;
plumb;
Master OK;
rule.

The scheme for building a wood-burning stove provides for a standard set of necessary materials:

For the design itself, you need a hob.

corner;
valve;
hob;
oven;
doors;
bricks of various types;
clay and sand, crushed stone;
cement, water and others Additional materials for solution.

Stages of work

Solution preparation

Furnace project for summer kitchen involves several stages of construction. At the first stage, it is necessary to allocate a place for the future foundation, to prepare a pit. After that, the solution is mixed, and the basis of the supporting structure is formed. After pouring the cement mixture, it is necessary to wait a certain period of time (2-3 days) until the foundation dries. Next, prepare a clay solution and proceed to the main process of laying.

Brick laying mix wood stove a thickish consistency is made, while it is important to take into account some features. Before using the finished solution, be sure to check its quality. There are several methods that allow you to assess the degree of readiness of the mixture. Several balls are rolled from the solution, which subsequently, after drying, should not have cracks on the surface. If any - the masonry mixture is not the most best quality. You can bake a similar ball in the oven. In the case when, after baking, the product has retained its shape and there are no visible damages, the solution is considered to be of high quality.

With a fireplace for heating a house, there will be no problems in operation if all construction standards are observed.

How to lay a brick?

Closer to the 10th row of bricks, a firebox is formed.

Throughout the base, two continuous rows of bricks are laid out in accordance with the construction scheme. The edges of the structure are laid out from solid products.
In the 3rd row, an ash chamber is formed, the door of which is fixed on the 2nd row of masonry. The fourth and fifth row of bricks must be blocked, after which a drying chamber for wood is installed, if desired.
After the 6th row, the furnace system is increased to the inside, while controlling the laying level and corners.
On the 7th row, fittings are mounted in the form of a grate and a solid grate, and the firebox door is fixed.
After that, at the 8th and 10th stages, a combustion chamber is formed, while in the process of lining it is necessary to fix the dryer, which completely overlaps, starting from the 11th row. The surface of the structure is lined with metal rods, after which the concrete mixture is poured. The future chimney is being laid.
A brick is laid in line 12, on which a small stove will be mounted. The surface is installed directly into the brickwork, and water containers are fixed near it.
The masonry stages are completed with the formation of a chimney.

The stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its limits, fuel processing, heat generation and combustion products removal to the outside take place. If you plan to lay the furnace with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules verified in practice for centuries to guarantee the normal operation of the unit.

Those who wish to learn how to ideally build a brick stove, we will find detailed information on all important issues of interest to an independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are given in the finest details, the main postulates of the stove-makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information provided by us will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick oven. All its components will perfectly cope with their duties, and the structure itself will last for many years without any complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected ordinal schemes, photo images, video recommendations.

Before proceeding with the construction of the stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences which must be taken into account initially. There is a reasonable difference in the orders developed by stove-makers for precise laying of bricks.

There are many furnace designs that can be divided into groups according to their purpose:

Image gallery

The history of the wood stove goes back centuries, if not millennia. IN different countries the most best models received a well-deserved distribution.

Such designs are used today, both in the classical form and with some additions.

Dutch

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent her from giving off the accumulated heat well.

Russian oven

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence - free space where you can relax. Under the bed there is a firebox, you can cook food in it. There is a stove next to the firebox, and a blower a little lower, which supports the fire. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily warm up a room whose size exceeds 40 square meters. But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials will be required.

Swede

Relate to compact options. Length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusualness of such a stove is that a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.

This design is flammable. But the risk of fire is reduced by dampers.

Fireplaces and combined fireplace stoves

Scheme of the device of the furnace

If we talk about stoves-fireplaces, then a certain brick building immediately appears, which serves as an decoration for the apartment. However, a decorative fireplace and a fireplace stove are not the same thing. Considering the devices associated with the word "fireplace", the following varieties can be distinguished: a decorative (artificial) fireplace, a working fireplace and a fireplace stove. An artificial hearth is a design element, not an equipment for heating a dwelling. A real fireplace consists of a portal, a firebox and a chimney. Putting it together won't be too hard. Depending on the installation method, there are 3 main types:

corner fireplace. It is installed in the corner of the room. This arrangement allows you to heat several rooms at once.
closed fireplace. It takes up very little space, as it is located in the wall of the house. Installation of the furnace is carried out during the construction of the building.
open fireplace. Usually it is arranged in the middle of the room in a large area. In this case, the chimney is suspended using special chain fasteners.

Brick stoves-fireplaces can have various shapes according to the chosen style. The classic version is a U-shaped design with decorative elements. D-shaped building is typical for country style. The hearth of a rectangular or semicircular shape reflects the Art Nouveau style.

A fireplace stove is a kind of hybrid of a household stove and a fireplace. The device quickly heats up the room and is suitable for cooking any dishes, heating water and food, drying mushrooms and fruits. Masters of furnace art offer a number of different designs that are conveniently placed in a house of any layout (Fig. 6). In inclement weather, a brick stove creates a special comfort in the house.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick kilns got their name because of the rather wide use in the Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is explained by the similarity of the climate and requirements for heating products. They belong to the bell type, the heating of the room is carried out due to the transfer of heat from the massive body of the stove.

The advantages of this type can be called:

The ease of the device of this design;
Light weight;
The cost of such a model is quite budgetary;
It has good heat dissipation, traction and has a high efficiency;
Due to the presence of a large firebox, it heats up quickly;
Properly folded design is very aesthetic.

Brick oven "finca"

Drawing of a Finnish stove

Finnish stove has a very large furnace compartment

Usually such products are installed in the center of the room.

Classification of brick ovens

From the very name of heating stoves, it becomes clear that these stoves are designed for heating premises, both residential and non-residential (garage, hangar, greenhouse, etc.).

– How are brick ovens arranged?
– What types of brick ovens are there?
– What are once-through or bell-type furnaces? What is the difference?

In this article, we will consider options for heating stoves made of bricks. The variety of such furnaces is great and they differ in the first place internal device smoke channels.

Furnace with horizontal channels

In such a system, a cleaning door must be placed on each horizontal channel to remove ash and soot that settles on the horizontal surface of the channels. In such a furnace, hot gases do not linger in the furnace itself, but give off heat only in the direction of the chimney.

Furnace with horizontal channels and heat pockets

In this design of the furnace, there are thermal pockets in the channels, in which heat is accumulated. The average cross section of the channel along the entire length became larger, which led to a decrease in the velocity of gases. At a lower speed of movement of gases, heat transfer from hot gases to the body of the furnace itself increases. This design of the furnace is more heat-consuming, respectively, with a higher efficiency.

Vertical channel oven

Such a system of channels creates more resistance for the movement of gases, which is both a plus and a minus of this system. Minus - you need a higher chimney to pull gases through the furnace channels. Plus - such a furnace is less blown out due to the greater resistance in the channels. Accordingly, this system is more heat-intensive than the first option. The second drawback is the overheating of the first channel, and as a result, the occurrence of serious internal stresses. (read-cracking of the masonry of the furnace body).

Counter current furnace

This system differs from the system with vertical channels (option 2) in that the downcomer channel in it is wider. This leads to the fact that the speed of movement of gases in it decreases and the heat exchange between hot gases and the walls of the furnace itself increases. This option is more preferable than option 2.

Bell-type furnace

This system is based on the principle of free movement of gases. It does not have thermal channels through which gases move, but there is a cap. Hot gases, having risen to the top, cool down the bell (giving off their heat to the furnace), go down and exit into the chimney. After all the wood in the stove burns out, hot gases remain in the bell, continuing to give off their heat. Such a stove does not need a high chimney. Such an oven is practically not blown out. The cap or caps may be different shapes and size, which allows you to make an oven of any shape and size. In bell-type furnaces, any fuel can be used - even gas and electric heaters. In bell-type furnaces, efficiency is higher and they are more economical. This system is more advantageous than options 1 2 3.

The use of combined smoke circulation systems in furnaces is allowed. The combinations are different and there are a lot of them. When designing, it is possible to combine vertical, horizontal turns and caps in different versions.

Furnace with combined smoke recovery system

As an example, a combination of horizontal channels with a countercurrent system. There is also a forward flow system.

Furnace smoke circulation with direct flow system

Smoke recovery oven with co-current system and slits

Such a system is not suitable for a heating stove, but is suitable for fireplaces, barbecues, Russian stoves, and in some cases for sauna stoves. Of course, this scheme can be improved by adding a heat load with cuts to it, but all the same, such a system is not suitable for space heating. Heating stoves can be used additional features. Common options for such furnaces:

Heating stove with hob. Such an oven not only heats the room, but also allows you to cook or heat something on the stove. The disadvantage of this furnace: low firebox, lower heat capacity of the furnace itself, relatively rapid cooling of the furnace through the stove.
Heating oven with bread chamber (oven). Such a furnace is more heat-intensive and significantly outperforms the furnace with a welding plate. There are two options for such an oven:
- permanent action. Hot gases do not pass through the oven itself, but heat it only from below or from all sides. The so-called clean bread chamber.
– intermittent action. Hot gases pass through the oven, heating it from the inside. Cooking in such a stove is possible only after the complete combustion of firewood in the firebox.
Heating furnace with water register. This stove allows you to heat water radiators (batteries) and distribute heat throughout the room. But it is better to use a specialized furnace-boiler for this purpose.

Heating stoves can be combined. You can put the stove and oven, the register and the oven at the same time, etc. You can make a stove with two fireboxes. Each firebox works for its own load (which is more correct). Such heating stoves can be combined with a fireplace (open or closed). Also, such stoves can be made with a stove bench and or with a heating shield on the second floor.

There are a lot of options for heating stoves. You can always choose for yourself the furnace that best meets your requirements.

Forms of brick ovens for the home

In addition to the specifics of functions, other parameters can be used to classify brick ovens.

In form, the following options for stoves for a brick house are found:

Rectangular. It is easiest to build such structures.
Square. They have the most compact dimensions.
corner. A great option for small spaces and rooms with a complex configuration.
Round. Very exotic and beautiful.
T-shaped. The most traditional kind of brick ovens for the home.

The shape of the stove is usually chosen based on the specifics of the installation site and the preferences of the owners of the house.

There are also varieties of stoves for the home according to the furnace model, where the main parameter is the wall thickness:

thick-walled. Differ in the highest efficiency.
Thin-walled. They are supplied only cooking varieties brick ovens.
Combined. Usually used in heating and cooking types of stoves for the home.

As a rule, the finished brick structure of the furnace is additionally finished in one way or another.

For these purposes can be used:

Plaster.
Decorative brick.
Tiles or stove tiles.
Special metal case.

The choice of finishing option mainly depends on the overall interior of the home and the type of brick oven. The first three options will require the use of a special heat-resistant solution based on high-quality clay. In principle, for this you can use the same mixture on which the masonry was carried out. Dry powders of factory packaging are especially good in this regard: to prepare the finished solution, they must be diluted in water, in the proportions indicated on the package. In the case of plaster, an additional reinforcing steel mesh is usually used, which is fixed to the brick walls. Plaster work it is allowed to carry out only after the masonry has completely dried.

With regard to cladding with decorative brick or tiles, then for these purposes only special heat-resistant samples can be used that tolerate significant temperature fluctuations well. In some cases, brick walls are left without any finishing, however, for this, the masonry must be done with the highest quality. This is also allowed in cases where there are no special requirements for the external design of the furnace. This happens, for example, if the heating structure is being built somewhere in a garage, shed or greenhouse.

Types of chimneys

An additional parameter when choosing a furnace design is the shape of the chimney.

She may be:

Direct-flow.
Countercurrent with vertical or horizontal channels.
Single turn or multi turn.
No channels.
With bottom heat.

Structural elements of furnaces

Illustrations	Description of elements
	Foundation. This structural element takes on the load from the entire structure. That is, the foundation is the base on which the weight of the firebox, chimney and other massive and heavy parts is transferred. The foundation is laid directly on the ground and repeats the design of the foundation on which the house is built. The furnace foundation is built separately from bearing walls, from the foundation of the house, etc. If the wall is located nearby, a gap of 3-5 mm is maintained during the construction of the foundation. The gap is needed so that the base under the heavy brick structure is independently movable relative to the elements in the house structure.
	Shantsy. These are the first few rows in the design of the furnace, starting from the foundation. The use of trenches allows you to increase the heat transfer to the room. The best option is 2-3 rows of brickwork, starting from the foundation.
	Blower (ash chamber). This constructive element performs two functions: Provides air supply to the furnace, which is necessary for creating thrust and for combustion. It accumulates ash, which, as the fuel burns out, falls down from the furnace through the grate. In order for the blower to perform the listed tasks, a door is installed in it. By opening the door to the desired width, you can control the draft. Again, accumulated ash can be removed through this door. The instruction for using the blower is simple - after the fuel has burned out, the door must be completely closed. As a result, warm air will remain in the furnace and will not go up the chimney.
	Firebox (firebox). A firebox is a chamber designed for burning coal, firewood or other types of solid fuel. When building a firebox, refractory fireclay bricks are used. To protect the room from sparks and hot coals, a furnace door is installed at the entrance to the furnace. The traditional Russian stove is made with an open firebox, that is, it does not have a door. At the bottom of the firebox is a grate. In the part of the furnace farthest from the door, at the top there is a hole (hailo) designed to remove smoke. So that during the operation of the furnace, ash and hot coals do not fall out through the open door of the furnace, in the lower part of the furnace, before installing the door, the level rises slightly to get a kind of step
	Smoke channels (smoke rotations). These elements simultaneously remove smoke from the firebox to the chimney and take away heat. In order for the smoke to give up its heat, the smoke channels are made as long as possible. As a result, the temperature at the inlet to the channel and at the outlet can differ significantly. But the smoke circulation device is planned in such a way that these channels can be cleaned from accumulated soot from time to time. Improperly designed chimneys cause the stove to cool down quickly, as most of the heat goes into the chimney. Otherwise, the incorrect design of the smoke channels makes draft difficult, which also reduces the heating efficiency.
	Chimney ( chimney) . This element is directly connected to the smoke channels and is designed to create traction. The draft is created due to the pressure difference in the furnace and at the exit from the chimney; Accordingly, the higher the pipe, the more thrust.

How to choose a stove for a brick house

When choosing a brick oven in the house, you should decide on the functions that it should perform. In addition to the presence of a cooking panel, it is worth noting the following criteria:

If it is intended to use the stove as a heating device, it must be economical;
We decided to lay out the oven on our own - make sure that the design has a simple appearance, this will allow you to easily cope with subsequent installation;
The oven must have a water circuit;

Many owners country cottages prefer to install decorative stoves to give a special design to the room. In this case, the classic Russian stove will be the best option; ease of use.

Important! Choosing a stove for a brick house should be with a professional stove-maker. He will help you choose the best option, tell you what material to use and how to lay.

How to choose a place for the oven

The stove can be installed in different places in the room, but its most optimal location will be embedding into walls between adjacent rooms. In this case, with a small area of \u200b\u200bthe house, one heating structure can be dispensed with if the heat-releasing surface is proportional to the size of the rooms into which they go.

It is very important to correctly determine the place of construction of a brick oven

The place chosen for the construction must be well measured and take into account some points:

The height of the ceiling of the room is important, since the brick oven must fit well into the space in its height.
The foundation for the furnace must be 110 ÷ 120 mm larger than its base, and for it it is also necessary to provide for a suitable area.
The chimney pipe, when laid up, should not stumble on the floor beams and on rafter legs roof structure.

Features of laying a brick oven with your own hands

What are the nuances you need to know before proceeding with the laying of the furnace?

Stove heating is not going to become obsolete at all. Wood-burning brick stoves continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire a stove-maker to build and buy necessary materials. The only way to save money is to fold a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - the orders presented later in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench is beyond the power of a beginner, but you will be able to overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Projects of simple brick ovens

The first thing to consider is to choose a home heater design that can meet your heating needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs, proven in the work of many years of practice:

channel-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch;
hob with an oven and a tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
Swede - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Folding the Dutchman shown in the picture on your own is quite simple. She's different small size in plan, but in height it can be placed indefinitely, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two - or three-story house of a small area or a summer house, if you build a Dutch woman with a passage through the ceilings. The channel stove successfully burns firewood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats the premises, although you cannot call it economical.

Reference. The Dutch woman warms up quickly, and after attenuation it does not give off heat for long, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Her forte- ease of construction and undemanding to fuel.

The plate shown in the photo - convenient option For country house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in the summer. The tank, installed in the path of hot flue gases, is capable of supplying hot water for heating systems or household needs.

Swedish brick ovens combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, give off the accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well on wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is unlike a hob, plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Any brick oven transfers heat to the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater or at least part of it be in a heated room. Given this requirement, we will give some advice on choosing a place for a building in a rural house and in the country:

If you need to heat one big room, then it is better to lay out the stove in the middle, with a slight offset to the side outer wall where the cold comes from.
For heating 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling part of the interior partitions.
Suppose 1-2 small rooms adjoin the hall. You can go there water heating with radiators and circulation pump connected to the furnace heat exchanger or tank.
Do not plan to place the heater close to the outer walls. It is pointless to warm them up, part of the heat will simply go outside.
The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and rude - into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the roof ridge. It is better to move the building by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials that are closer than 500 mm from the furnace body must subsequently be protected with metal sheets. Under them, it is desirable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to the wooden elements of the roof located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which the stove is built with your own hands is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and necessarily full-bodied, stones with voids inside are not used in the furnace business, except for the construction of street barbecues and barbecues.

Advice. Dutch is so undemanding to the quality of materials that it can be made from used red brick. Only upon completion of the masonry will it have to be ennobled, for example, overlaid tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To fold a small Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and accessories:

red burnt brick - at least 390 pieces;
grate grate size 25 x 25 cm;
loading door 25 x 21 cm;
small doors for cleaning and blowing 14 x 14 cm;
metal shutter 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch can be laid out at any desired height. The indicated number of bricks is enough for the construction in a one-story private house.

The list of components and building materials for the hob:

solid ceramic brick - 190 pieces;
grate 25 x 5 cm;
two-burner cast-iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with discs;
fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
metal tank - boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
doors for cleaning 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs.;
chimney damper;
steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

To save money, you can take on the manufacture of a tank for heating water - simply weld it from metal with a thickness of 3, and preferably 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil inside the furnace, welded with your own hands from steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is required to organize constant circulation with the help of a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

For the construction of a heating and cooking Swedish stove, you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip 40 x 4 mm and prepare a refractory (fireclay) brick for laying the firebox. To install fittings, look for soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Advice on masonry mortar. The preparation of natural clay, on which experienced stove-makers lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for the construction of furnaces, which are commercially available.

Foundation laying

Before folding the oven, it is necessary to prepare a solid base. The structure is quite heavy, so put it directly on the floors, even flooded cement screed, is unacceptable. The foundation of the stove is a separate structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to the walls or erecting a corner fireplace, you need to make an indent of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum clearance of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are filled with a screed, then it is recommended to observe the following for the construction of the furnace foundation. step by step instructions:

Dismantle the section of the screed and dig a pit that protrudes beyond the dimensions of the furnace by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of subsiding soil.
Place a sand cushion 100 mm high and tamp it down. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material and install the formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay a reinforcing mesh there.

After 3 weeks (complete hardening time concrete mix) put a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt impregnated with clay mortar or basalt cardboard. After that, you can start laying the body of the furnace.

To properly lay the foundation of the furnace under the wooden floors, use the same algorithm, but instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (you can use it) to the level floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or rubble and concrete from above. Further - a sheet of metal, felt soaked with clay and a solid first row of oven masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video on the topic:

Rules for the construction of the stove

The heating or cooking stove is built on a clay-sand mortar without the addition of cement, which contributes to cracking. To prepare it, use the instructions on the package in order to observe the proportions of clay and water. Print the order on paper and proceed to the masonry itself, guided by the following rules:

First, each row is laid dry to fit or cut the stones if necessary.
Before placing the bricks in the mortar, submerge them in a bucket of water.
The thickness of the mortar layer between the bricks is no more than 5 mm. Light tapping of stones is allowed, but you should not move them in a horizontal plane after laying.
Every 2 rows, check the vertical with a plumb line and the horizontal with a building level.
Remove excess solution squeezed out with a trowel. Inside the firebox and gas channels, the masonry of the furnace is wiped with a damp cloth as it is built.
To install doors and other fittings, tie a wire to it (there are special holes), and make a backup from the outside. In places of contact with bricks, wrap the tank and doors with asbestos cord, and plug the cracks with mortar.

An important point. The first row is the one indicated in the order. But there is also a "zero" row, laid solid on the foundation, regardless of the design of the furnace.

The clay-sand mortar does not harden, but dries, and this happens quite slowly - 2-3 days, or even more. Previously, you can’t kindle the stove if you don’t want to redo the cracked masonry. How to build a brick oven is described in the video:

Conclusion

Do not think that the first time you will be able to build a decent stove out of bricks. Perhaps it will look unsightly, and after kindling it will crack in some places. This is all uncritical, the cracks are sealed with the same mortar, and the masonry can be decorated from the outside by tiling or painting. Another thing is important: the stove should heat well and not smoke into the room through small cracks that were previously invisible. The first ignition will reveal all the defects, and your task is to successfully eliminate them, for which it is recommended to watch the second part of the video:

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Russian oven: drawings of brick ovens

Previously, such designs were found in every home, but now they are already a rarity. Despite this, the Russian stove can successfully fit into the interior of the room. Also, Russian brick ovens are not only a heating device - they also have a hob.

For laying the furnace, the following materials will be required:

solid red brick - 1610 pieces;
a view for a valve measuring 0.3x0.3 meters - 2 pieces;
dry clay mortar in dissolved form;
samovar 14x14 centimeters - 1 piece;
damper 43x34 centimeters - 1 piece. See also: "Laying the Russian stove: ordering."

The pipe of a Russian stove is traditionally laid out of brick, but modern technologies make it possible to install a round structure of good tightness with safe and convenient passage through floors and roofs (read also: “Heating stoves for a brick house - we do it ourselves”).

To work, you will need the following tools:

trowel - for laying and leveling the solution;
pickaxe - a multifunctional hammer with a blade located perpendicular to the axis of the handle. At its other end is a square windshield;

bubble level for masonry and hydraulic for the first row;
rule - serves to align the bricks of each row;
plumb lines - one of them must be permanently attached to the axis of the chimney (overlap), and with the help of the second, the verticality of the corners is checked;
brush - needed for grouting;
cord - it is pulled over each row of masonry.

Drawings of brick ovens for any type of house are as follows:

Cooking chamber. For masonry, a 3/4 ground corner brick with locks is used.
Under. From the back there is a slope, for the purpose of which the space is covered with sand, on which the brick is laid.
Covering the bottom. The structure is covered with bricks along bars, corners or sheet blanks.
Vault with lock. In some cases a central lock is used, in others the last two symmetrical bricks are used.
Rows to the lower vault. The laying of a brick oven is carried out in the usual way, in the future, a vault template assembled from chipboard or springs cut from wood is installed on top of it.
Wells. They are tied rows, in which they leave a hole leading to the undercook.
Underbay. Bricks are laid on foundation mortar, hollow stones are not allowed.
Code VK. For convenience, the bricks are cut to a wedge shape.
Covering the channel above the samovar. It is solid, only whole stones are used.
Holes are reduced above the shestak. The brick is cut in accordance with the drawing.
Wall alignment. At the same time, the overtube is reduced, the channel of the samovar is laid.
Installation of a samovar. The structure is closed with a separate cover.
View installation. To build in the structure, two rows are laid.
Chimney. The height of the pipe from the bottom to the top must be at least 5 meters. The upper rows form a visor that prevents precipitation from entering the chimney.

Thanks to this stove, high-quality heating of the house is provided.

Buslaevskaya oven: projects

The design has a built-in hood. The oven is small. It is ideal for any private home, as it allows not only to heat the premises, but also to cook food. Despite its compact size, the stove heats spacious rooms well, so there are ready-made projects for houses with a stove.

Special schemes for laying brick ovens will help you get the job done without complicated calculations.

For installation, you will need the following materials:

doors - fireboxes (0.2x0.25 meters), VK (0.39x0.5 meters), blower (0.14x0.14 meters);
refractory - 43 pieces;
solid brick - 382 pieces;
oven-cabinet 28x33x50 cm;
cast iron stove 0.7x0.4 meters with burners (removable rings of different diameters);
valves - steam exhaust (12x13 centimeters) and smoke (12x25 centimeters);
grate - grate 30x20 centimeters;
corner - three blanks of equal-shelf rolled products 1 meter long and 45x45 millimeters in size;
steel - a piece of 0.3x0.28 meters;
strip - 4 pieces of meter (4 millimeters), 0.25 meters (2 millimeters), 0.35 meters (3 millimeters);
cast iron stove - 0.4 x0.25 meters; 40x15 centimeters.

Projects of brick ovens of this type are as follows:

Complete row.
The door blew.
Window opening for cleaning.
The bottom of the oven is laid out from refractory, three sides are lined with iron.
Installation of the furnace door, grate, under the furnace - refractory, cleaning cover, blower door.
DS installation.
Laying refractory on the edge around the LH.
Laying according to the scheme.
The upper coating of the oven with clay (1 centimeter) is carried out, the DT overlaps, a stove with burners is attached.
Installation of smoke circulation with cleaning windows, the plate is not laid. In the future, the brick is placed on the edge.
Cleaning is covered, channels are created, 25 cm strips are laid.
The cleanings are finished, the fixing wire is embedded.
The cap is installed.
Installation of the ceiling VK, while the hoods remain.
The stoves are laid out according to the scheme.
The small stove ends with sheet iron, the laying is carried out in the order of the brick oven.
A cleaning hole of a large stove is laid out, the edges of the side walls of the channels are crimped.
Protrusion masonry.
The protrusions are duplicated and the corner is mounted.
The chimney of the BP overlaps similarly to the 19th row.
A three-row neck is made, the size of the chimney is reduced to a section of 26x13 centimeters for the top valve.
A chimney with grooves is created on this and subsequent rows.

The dimensions of the structure increase when using clinker facing bricks, so it is not recommended to use them instead of solid material. When finishing with tiles, durability is ensured (the material lasts for decades), in addition, it can be dismantled for facing other heating structures.

Sauna stove ordering: schemes

Projects of brick heating stoves show the location of fireclay and clay bricks in each row. Explanations for the order:

1, 2 row. A blower is created (window for air supply), dressing is used.

3. A window is left for the main chimney.

4. A damper, an ash pan door are installed.

5. A grate, a firebox are mounted, and a refractory is subsequently laid on them.

6. The shape of the chimney and firebox is repeated, doors are installed.

7-11 rows. The firebox ends on the 11th row.

12-14 rows. The heater box is installed.

15-16. The mine expands and halves by analogy with 6 next.

18. The cleaning door is installed.

22.23. The shafts are combined, while the edges of the brick are ground off. Then the shaft above the heater is completely blocked, only the chimney remains.

Frame structures can facilitate the installation process. In this case, the brick is present only in the outer walls, and all internal elements are welded from metal. This can speed up the process of laying the furnace. See also: "Orders of brick sauna stoves."

Features of the orders of brick ovens

The technology of laying furnaces differs from the construction of load-bearing structures. Usually the rows or the whole product are laid out without the use of mortar. Stitching is carried out, corner trimming grinder material, and during normal masonry, bricks are chipped off with a pick (read also: “How to make outdoor brick ovens with your own hands”).

Furnaces often serve as interior decoration, so they are lined with clinker, tiles, tiles. The diagonals in the first row are carefully measured, and a plumb line is hung in the center of the chimney, which is removed on the last rows of the pipe. Also, the diagonals are controlled every 4 rows, and on each row a cord is pulled when laying, which is checked by the rule.

Instead of a cement-sand mortar, it is recommended to use clay, regardless of the type of furnace being built. Ready-made dry mortars significantly save time spent on clay preparation. So that the composition does not dry quickly, the brick must be moistened with water before laying.

Operating costs will be less if there are no rectangular ledges inside the structure. To this end, when creating an overlap (ledge), the stone is tried on without mortar, the line of overlap is outlined, and the excess material is cut off with a grinder. Internal seams during laying are regularly monitored, and excess mortar is removed from time to time. The pipe is cleaned after completion of work.

Brick ovens are laid out from several materials:

outer cladding;
masonry bricks (main structure);
fireclay - refractory material lay out places exposed to strong heat (furnace, under);
brick with high density edges - located inside the furnace.

Clay bricks cannot be mixed with fireclay, and ovens, hobs, rods and grates of grates, water tanks are not embedded in the masonry - this is due to different expansion coefficients during heating. If the metal elements are rigidly embedded in the masonry, then the structure will soon collapse.

heatspec.com

Materials and devices

Brick

Furnace brick differs from refractory fireclay, in some sources they are confused. Their overall size is: building brick 250x125x65 mm, standard oven 230x114x40 mm. If you look, then the stove brick is a high-quality M150, red. It is suitable for building Russian and Dutch oven. With a heat resistance of 800 ° It can also be used to make stones for the home, but it cools quickly and absorbs little heat, so it is used only for open sources of fire where heating is not needed.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace sections of the furnace with a high thermal regime: bath, Swedish, bell-type. Heat resistance - 1600 ° C, which is enough for a home oven. Its high heat capacity makes it an excellent heat accumulator. But because of these features, the stove is not made entirely of fireclay bricks, otherwise it quickly heated up and also cooled rapidly. From the outside, the masonry should be lined with ceramics, at least half a brick.

Chamotte clay from different deposits has a different color, but this does not affect the characteristics in any way and it will not work to determine a quality product by appearance. The size and designations are no different from the usual.

How to find out good brick:

Fine-grained structure without pores and inclusions.
When tapping a brick with a hammer, a good product has a ringing sound, a bad one has a deaf one.
If you drop a good brick from a height, it will shatter into large pieces, and a bad one into small pieces and dust.

When laying the internal openings of furnaces for the home, clinker bricks have proven themselves well. It consists of ceramics and with a nondescript appearance shows good indicators of heat resistance and strength. Clinker is cheaper than fireclay, but more expensive than red.

Sand

If you expect your stove to last 10 years without regular repairs, then you need to use mountain sand without impurities in the solution. Other types contain a large amount of organic matter, which leads to cracking of the seams. Clay sand - ground broken brick, it is cheaper than mountain brick, and the quality of the masonry is in no way inferior.

Masonry mortars

When laying stoves for the home, clay and sand mortars are used. For fireclay, white kaolin and fireclay marl are used. With ceramic bricks - ground clay with refractory qualities (gray or blue Cambrian, gray kaolin). For 100 pcs. you need 40 kg of clay.

When buying clay, pay attention to the smell, if you feel it, this indicates impurities, which is not suitable for building a furnace. Before laying, you need to determine the fat content, i.e. the combination of viscosity with adhesiveness, for the correct ratio of sand. Clay of the same quality, but from different deposits, differ in this indicator. To check, 1 kg of powder is poured with water to the upper edge and allowed to stand for a day. Chamotte marl turns sour in 2 hours.

Soured clay is moistened with water and stirred until the consistency of a thick dough is reached. The resulting composition is divided into 5 equal parts and each is mixed with sand, in different proportions (10%, 30%, 50%, 70%, 100% by volume). Then dry for 4 hours.. From each sample, sausages are made with a diameter of 1.5 cm, at least 30 cm, wrapped around a round object with a diameter of 5 cm and look:

If the solution has settled down without cracks, then it will fit for the construction of any furnace.
The dry crust was torn, small cracks appeared - the material is suitable for use.

Cracks have spread 1 mm deep - for furnaces whose temperature does not rise above 300 ° C (cottage fireplace, barbecue).

Breaks, deep cracks, breaks - great content sand, unusable.

Testing brick sand to find the right ratio will save you a lot of money, quality clay is more expensive.

The working solution is made according to the same principle:

From the forging of commercial clay, 4 buckets of mortar are obtained.

Furnace appliances

Furnace appliances (latches, doors) are attached to the furnace with a mustache that falls on the seams or with a steel skirt wrapped in 5 mm asbestos cord. The first option is the cheapest, but not suitable for the oven, created fireboxes and flame dampers, quickly becomes unusable. And for replacement, it is necessary to break the masonry, which is bad for the furnace.

Laying and dressing

Depending on which side of the brick is outside, the masonry is divided into bonder and spoon. "Bed" masonry, when a brick is laid on a spoon or poke, is prohibited by SNiP due to fragility, but is applicable in extreme cases, for exterior decoration.

The laying is carried out with dressing of the seams, the rows of bricks should go with an offset. Otherwise any microcrack will go beyond the place of origin destroying the integrity of the structure. There are a large number of dressing methods, they often have to be changed during the construction of a complex chimney according to the drawing.

Principles of laying bricks:

The tychkovy row begins and ends the masonry.
Each brick must stand on top of 2 others.
Adjacent rows of bricks should overlap by 1/4 in width and length.
If the vertical seams are not filled with mortar, then the masonry will spread into layers.
There should not be a coincidence of the vertical seams of the spoon and butt rows.
Areas under the beams, protruding thresholds, liners - only bonded.
Hewn bricks are not used outside.

The minimum seam width is 2 mm, the maximum is 3 mm. Allowed broadening in masonry up to 5 mm, in the vault and ceiling rows - up to 13 mm. In places where ceramic and fireclay masonry meet, the maximum width is 5 mm. All rows of masonry must be tied.

When constructing partitions, bypass windows are made at the bottom and at the top. The pass is made simply - 2 bricks are skipped. But this will not work with overflow, otherwise there will be a hanging wall. Poking supports alternate every 3 rows with spoon windows.

The walls of the convector are made in order, and the shield is made with spoons with the usual dressing.

The vaults in household stoves are made semicircular. Laying order:

The seams on the wings should not coincide with the castle. To avoid this in the drawing, they are performed in a mirror image, and not in a shift. The angle of divergence should not exceed 17 degrees. To do this, you need to use a brick of a standard size, the thickness of the internal seams is 2 mm, external 13 mm.

Number of bricks

Before the widespread use of computers, the number of bricks per building was calculated by special coefficients for projects with an addition of 15%, for marriage and theft. But at current prices for materials, this approach is unacceptable. Now all buildings are calculated on CAD ( computer-aided design systems). The program will automatically issue the required number of full-size, shaped and longitudinal bricks, according to the drawing. But with the independent construction of the furnace, the most in a simple way will be counted in order. For an average oven, this will take an hour, but will allow you to calculate materials with an accuracy of 2%.

"Buslaevskaya" oven for home

The design is equipped with a built-in hood and is well suited for the home, as it can be used not only for heating (lower), but also for cooking (upper). To build the "Buslaevskaya" furnace, you will need:

The order of the "Buslaevskaya" furnace:

I - full row.
II - blew.
III - cleaning window.
IV - the bottom of the oven is laid out from refractory, lined with iron on three sides.
V - a furnace door, a grate, a cleaning cover are installed.
VI - installation of LH.
VII - around the LH, the refractory is installed on the edge.
VIII - complete row
IX - the upper part of the oven is coated with clay (1 cm).
X - smoke circulation is set.
XI - creating channels and laying 25 cm strips, overlapping cleanings.
XII - installation of the fixing wire and completion of cleaning.
XIII - cap.
XIV - overlap.
XV–XVI - picurki.
XVII - a small picurka is lined with iron.
XVIII - the edges of the side walls are hewn.
XIX - masonry ledges.
XX - installation of a corner, duplication of a ledge.
XXI - chimney overlap.
XXII - reducing the diameter of the chimney to 0.26x0.13 m.
XXIII - and all the following rows - is a chimney.

When used for facing clinker bricks, the dimensions of the furnace increase. It is not recommended to use instead of full-bodied. Facing the structure with tiles will ensure a long service life.

The technology for creating stoves for the home is different from the traditional one. Often they use laying rows without using a solution, according to the order. To give desired shape the brick is cut and trimmed. The dimensions of the furnace are smaller than the walls of the house and carefully measure the diagonals before building. Check every 4 rows. It is convenient to do this with the help of a stretched cord and a rule.

Using a ready-made solution will help save a lot of time. You will not need to soak the clay for 2 days, filter through a sieve, knead to the desired consistency. To prevent rapid drying, the brick is pre-moistened with water. The absence of rectangular ledges in the design will help save on operating costs. During masonry, control the thickness of the joints, remove excess mortar. When building a furnace, use different materials and for their docking, use different solutions. Chamotte brick is not tied up with clay, ovens, cast iron and steel plates, rods, water tanks, gratings are not embedded in the masonry. It's connected with different indicators expansion of materials during heating.

kotel.guru

Advantages of a brick oven

Why does the brick oven remain competitive, more and more are being built, so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to operate, and according to manufacturers, have a greater efficiency (coefficient useful action). But why are bricks still in demand in some areas or buildings. One of the reasons is that the brick stove “breathes”.

This means that when the furnace is heated, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, the moisture reabsorbs. Due to this, it maintains a normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that "a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house."

The ability of a brick oven to "breathe" not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. During the heat engineering calculation of the house, the temperature indicators during the heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. At the same time, air humidity should be optimal for health. The furnace for the house provides optimum humidity of air, at a temperature of warming up about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort, clothes, bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity can be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they dry the air a lot). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of economy, than modern systems, with indicators of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the heat loss of the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting the size of the furnace surface

Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to choose the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be her appearance and ease of construction, and heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a place for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the highest heat transfer. This factor determines when choosing a place.

Different models have different forms:

Rectangular;
In the shape of the letter T;
With a bed or kitchen equipment for cooking food.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space separator.

For a small house area, you should not choose too massive structures, even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To warm up the entire furnace, a lot of fuel is needed, while the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove, relative to the living rooms, is also important, and the criterion is the insulation of the whole house.

The structure of the stove for the house, stoves for the house of the classical scheme

The furnace consists of 3 main parts. Furnace body, foundation and chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

Foundations - foundation;
waterproofing material;
Shantsy. They are holes, they make you create heating in the lower part of the room. They perform the function of "legs" in the design;
Blew;
The opening of the air channel, contributes to the heating of the room along the entire height;
Door for blower;
grate grate;
Kindling door;
Furnace part;
Arch of the furnace part;
“Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with a nozzle is called a hail);
door for cleaning;
Dusnik pass;
Dusnik;
Valves regulating the direction of travel;
Convector channel;
A valve that closes the chimney after heating the furnace. Close after heating, so that the furnace does not cool down.
Air outlet door;
flue hole;
Overlapping (upper part of the furnace);
Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
overlap;
Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the furnace is made separately from the general foundation of the house. Use conventional reinforced concrete strip foundation. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. Asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (cast iron is best, but it is very expensive, normal fit roofing metal), and covered with felt on top. Felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after that they begin laying. By itself, the litter is needed so that the foundation does not take on all the thermal energy of the furnace. In simple words"so that the heat does not go into the ground."

masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique hatching from a simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The furnace part is laid out of red ceramic bricks, in combination with refractory (chamotte) material. As a solution, a clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the furnaces. Removal of a metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked, knocking to the floor.

Unlike a cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries rather than sets. Therefore, under the constant action of moisture (especially in winter period), the solution soaks. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures(up to 300 degrees Celsius), put on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made of a rounded appearance. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (bottom transition). It is much easier to clean soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

The chimney is laid out of red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such a brick is cheaper than fireclay, and the solution is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly, in the event of a soot fire, and thereby gives less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions, is a side for rain to drain. From the height of the pipe, the draft in the furnace will hang.

Place for the stove in the house

It will depend on the place of installation of the furnace effective work. The best location will be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the outlet, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for proper operation and the possibility of full cleaning.
The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, as its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
The location must be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This must be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the furnace.
In front of the door of the furnace part, there must be a flooring that can withstand fire. (sheet of metal or ceramic tile) to prevent accidental fires.

Do-it-yourself equipment and building materials for building a furnace

Brick

There are sources on the Internet claiming that brick for furnaces and refractory are one and the same. In fact, they have only linear dimensions in common. The dimensions of an ordinary single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm., And the standard stove has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes there are 230 by 114 by 65 mm. In the construction of the furnace, a special high-quality brick of grade 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used for laying furnace channels in the furnace part. It withstands high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish ovens or sauna ovens. It is able to withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens, this temperature does not happen. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to keep warm for a long time. It does not make sense to build the entire body of the furnace from it, since it is very expensive and has poor strength.

In order to distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality fireclay, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since chamotte can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way checks - check to sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be loud and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of the material is radical. The brick is broken in half and looked at the break. Qualitative fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, clinker bricks are sometimes used in furnace construction. It is that de red ceramic, only it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

Quarry sand of medium fraction is used as sand in a cement-sand mortar. It is sifted through a sieve to sift out large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn out from heating, due to which the masonry will crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

For laying the furnace, you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

cement;
Lime;
clays;
Fireclay.

Clay-based mortar is characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap. Clay can be easily found on almost any land, after cleaning it. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. Such a mixture dries out under the action of high temperature, but becomes wet when exposed to moisture. The stove masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But it is impossible to lay the foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in furnace parts. Such a solution withstands the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is strong enough, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but the fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for laying a chimney. It has the best indicators of strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not let smoke through and dig into the room and provide good draft for the firebox.

Brick oven projects examples

Furnace for giving

The average size of a country house is about 15-20 square meters. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove, 2 by 3 meters in size and with a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the furnace part is made of refractory bricks, and the whole body is built from ceramic red.

Such a simple option can easily be made of bricks with their own hands by every beginner, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with ordering, ordinal instruction

Despite the small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm., while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your experience.

For such a furnace, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Material Quantity:

You will need about 210 pieces of ordinary brick, about 75 pieces of fireclay. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cu. m. One grate, door for furnace, blower and cleaning. Two smoke dampers. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, as there will be a certain percentage of brick battle.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. On such an oven you can cook food and there is a stove bench in its design. Laying and erection schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is the design feature, due to which it heats only the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What does it consist of:

A) the ward part;
B) niche;
B) six;
D) bugle;
D) stuffy part;
E) shield;
G) valve;
H) chimney pipe;
I) Repainting the crucible.

Large, small and medium-sized furnaces are built according to their size. Consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Brick red about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. From steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar, measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on lime mortar with the addition of cement. There is a formation of the ward part;

Row number 2 to number 4 is laid out well. All sutures are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a lock is being erected for the vault;

Row number 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the stove;

Row number 12 is laid out "under". It is made from a special brick;

Row No. 13 the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Row No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 set the vaults of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the walls of the furnace;

Row No. 19 of the wall of the vault;

Row No. 20 with the help of halves of bricks narrow the hole above the hearth;

Row No. 21 align the walls;

Row No. 22 stage of alignment and reduction of the pre-pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows from No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney masonry. In a Russian stove, a chimney is laid in 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying furnaces, you should try to lay out at least one without mortar in order to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

kirpichguru.ru

Heating stove by V. Bykov

This oven is for heating purposes only as it does not include a stovetop or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, as it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is able to heat even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, while its height without a chimney is 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple in laying, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, so the designer himself called it a "thick warm wall." Heat transfer from the entire structure is 2400 kcal/h, but at the same time, 920 kcal/h fall on the side walls, and only 280 kcal/h on its front and back parts. The cross section of the flue duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Thanks to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, opening into a third room, for example, into a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The whole design of this model is conditionally divided into two compartments - this is the upper gas outlet and the lower one is the furnace. In the lower part there are two channels - ascending and descending. They help heat the furnace part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the building, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are overlapped by ⅔ of bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The walls of the channels not only direct the heated air in the right direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of the furnace. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the exit of warm air into the pipe.

For this oven model you will need the following materials:

Red refractory brick - 407 pcs.
White fireclay brick SHA-8 - 197 pcs.
Furnace door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
Grate 250×252 mm -1 pc.
Chimney damper 130×250 mm -1 pc.
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, 500 × 700 mm in size - 1 pc., ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.

Bykov furnace ordering

The laying of the furnace takes place on the foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation must be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before laying, it is laid with a layer of waterproofing - roofing material.

ordering	Description of works
	According to this scheme, two zero rows are presented, which are below the level of the finished floor. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry, located on the same level with the finishing floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is lined with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1 row - a blower chamber is formed. At the entrance to it, a hewn brick is installed, which facilitates the selection of combustion waste. For laying this row, 21 bricks are needed.
	2nd row - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. For laying this row, 20 bricks are required.
	3rd row - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the ears of the door is embedded in the seams of the masonry. For a row, you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are stacked near the installed door.
	4 row - the front part of the blower chamber is blocked with bricks along with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the swivel well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
	5th row - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the blower chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which the combustion waste will slide into the ash-blowing chamber through the grate installed on the same row. A gap of 5 mm must be left between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. It will take 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	6 row - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the chimney well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	7th row - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. In this row, 11 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 fireclay bricks cut obliquely across the entire width were used.
	8 row is laid according to the scheme, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. A row will take 15 bricks.
	9th row - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the oven is placed according to the scheme.
	10 row - bricks are laid according to the scheme in compliance with their direction. This row needs 16 bricks.
	11 row - a brick on the back wall of the furnace and at the entrance to the drop-down channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks.
	12 row - there is a combination of a falling chimney channel and a fuel chamber. For a row, you need 13 whole and 2 in ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid, according to the presented scheme, and it uses 10 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row also fits according to the scheme, it will take 10 whole and 6 in ¾ bricks.
	15 row - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	16 row - the combined descending channel and the fuel chamber are completely blocked with bricks. This and the next row divide the building into two parts - the gas-air upper and the fuel lower. For a row, 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are used.
	17th row is laid out of red brick. An opening of the ascending channel is left in it, along its edges hewn obliquely bricks are mounted. Used 14 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
	18 row - a horizontal channel of the furnace is formed, it is the basis for mounting five channels that will go vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row, you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	19 row - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the building, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower furnace part of the furnace. The bricks that form this channel must be cut obliquely from below. Used 11 whole and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	20 row - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in the subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal traction. In a row, 7 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks are used.
	21 row - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. Bricks placed at the base of the walls dividing the channels are pressed together from below, as in previous cases. For a row, you need 11 whole, 5 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the scheme in compliance with the formation of channels. For a row, you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the scheme and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	24 row - on this row, the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The upper brick in the wall is hemmed from the two upper sides obliquely. For a row, you need 9 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	25th row - it completes the laying of the walls between the second and third vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry, you need 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 5 in ½ bricks.
	26 row - completion of the wall masonry between the third and fourth vertical channels. The upper brick of the wall is also pressed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
	27th row - work is proceeding according to the scheme, and it requires 9 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
	28 row - it uses bricks made in ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole ones are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely over the entire thickness.
	29 row - in it, the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. For its masonry, 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2- ½ bricks will be required.
	30 row is also laid out solid, according to the scheme, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 in ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the scheme and 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	32 row - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out, for it you will need 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swede" A. Ryazankin

Quite popular, due to its efficiency, the heating and cooking stove of the "Swede" type. Its design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

Such an oven is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of the house, positioning it so that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swede designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both a spacious and a small building, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of their living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height, excluding the pipe. At the same time, it is necessary to provide for the fact that the fireplace portal will protrude 130 mm beyond the building. The foundation must be larger than the size of the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Swede reaches 3000 kcal / h.

For the construction of this model of the furnace, the following materials will be required:

Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm — 1 pc.
Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm — 8 pcs.
Oven 450×360×300 mm - 1 pc.
Two-burner cast-iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
Grate 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm - 2 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×920 mm - 3 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×530 mm - 2 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×480 mm - 2 pcs.
Fireplace grate, you can make it yourself from reinforcing bars.
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace masonry

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast-iron elements of the fireplace stove, and the description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire oven dry to begin with, that is, without mortar, adhering to the scheme and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of the stove.

Another trick of experienced craftsmen is the preliminary adjustment and laying of each of the rows without mortar during work. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or hemmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be done much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When performing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only the diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the furnace. It will also help - it will allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnaces.

So, the laying is done as follows:

The first, continuous row of the furnace is laid on a roofing material laid on a finished foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first it is worth marking the roofing material with a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, relying on the scheme and observing the brick laying configuration, the first row is assembled dry, and then - laying on the mortar.
2 row. Metal elements are laid in it, consisting of pieces of reinforcement, on which a fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element is completely immersed. The rest of the laying is carried out according to the scheme.
3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are mounted, previously wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, a wire is used, which is threaded into special eyelets of a cast-iron frame. Further, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is fixed with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until the final fixing, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

4 row. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, but the series is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be brought out perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, as well as all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which are wrapped or lined with asbestos, in order to avoid its premature burnout.

6 row. On this row, a furnace door is installed, wrapped with an asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

7 row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme, a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
8 and 9 rows are laid out according to the presented scheme.
10 row. The front wall of the furnace is being strengthened, since a cast-iron hob will be mounted in this part of the building. A steel corner is fixed to the wall with the help of two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid on the place of installation of the plate, and the plate itself is installed. In the same row, the door of another cleaning chamber is fixed.
11 and 12 rows are laid out according to the scheme without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row there is an overlap of the cleaning chamber door.

From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed scheme, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
16 row. The device of the walls of the chamber is being completed, located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks for the next row.
17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
19 row. At this stage, two more doors of the cleaning chambers are mounted, which are fixed in the same way as the previous ones.
20, as well as 21 rows are placed according to the scheme.
22 row. Two more doors of the cleaning chambers are being installed.
23 row. The laying goes according to the scheme.
24 row. A chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the mortar.

25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the scheme.
31 row. At this stage, the third, last chimney valve is installed.
32-33 rows. In this area of \u200b\u200bthe design, there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When laying a pipe through an attic floor, it is necessary to isolate combustible materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box is arranged around the chimney with sides 100 ÷ 120 mm higher than the thickness of the ceiling. This "difference" remains in the attic.

If the oven walls are not covered decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The Swede oven can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project presented in the video.

heating-expert.com

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal furnaces and boilers, which is replenished from year to year with newer and newer models. But despite all their advantages, the owners of non-gasified houses still have an ordinary brick oven in honor - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but also introduce the reader to various types furnaces and do-it-yourself brick-type construction technology.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

So, let's try to understand why an old heating device is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

The body of the furnace is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick oven has to be heated much less frequently than a conventional steel and even cast iron one. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be thrown into the firebox of a metal stove every 4-6 hours.
The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
The outer surface of the furnace does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly cause harm to health.

A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ones) emits steam when heated, and absorbs it again when it cools. This process is called kiln breathing. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When using any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel furnace has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it has to either be heated often, putting small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one tab of fuel increases, but it burns out with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other environmentally harmful substances - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick oven produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while from the chimney of a steel oven in which the fuel is smoldering, black smoke constantly pours. Metal solid fuel heaters are deprived of this disadvantage. long burning(full-fledged, and not the so-called gas-generating furnaces, only simulating gas generation). But they are very expensive, have a complex design and need electricity, without which a brick oven can easily do.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven warms up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector that will heat the air in forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be built along with the house. And ideally, this should be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

The use of brick ovens

The scope of application of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

Smoking meat and fish.
Remelting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
Firing of ceramic products.
Heating blanks in a blacksmith shop.
Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above scheme in different furnaces may be modified. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very successful version of the heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

Efficiency at the level of 60%;
in the oven, a heat exchanger can be installed on the side for heating water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven roof;
gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
a convector with this shape heats the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
near the Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell-type furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complicated to manufacture (high loads take place in the design). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove bench

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. It does not include a convector.

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector is not provided for in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:

Efficiency reaches 80%;
the building has an interesting appearance;
become available for cooking such dishes of our national cuisine, which you can’t cook otherwise than in a Russian oven.

The Russian stove can be folded independently, if you clearly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General arrangement of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick array there is a chamber with a door in which the fuel burns - the furnace (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. Under the grates there is another chamber, called an ash pan or blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, outside air enters the furnace and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. Hailo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (pos. 16).

Walls gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). A door (pos. 18) is installed at its outlet, which is closed in summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

cleaning door (pos. 12): the smoke channel is cleaned through it;
valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
view (pos. 17): it is also a valve, through which, after kindling, when the entire carbon monoxide already evaporated, block the chimney in order to retain heat.

Thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the crossing area attic floor and roofing, called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the overlap, the walls of the chimney are made thicker. This broadening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It does not allow rain moisture to penetrate into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other items:

1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
5 - the beginning of a special air channel (ventilator), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
10 - furnace vault;
13 - the bend of the air convector, called the overflow or pass;
20 - overlapping of the furnace;
22 - attic floor.

Preparing for construction

Required materials, selection

When building a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

Construction ceramic brick (red). They lay out the lowest rows - the so-called sub-fire part (indicated by oblique shading in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
Furnace ceramic brick. It is also red, but compared to the building one it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the oven are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The furnace brick lays out the flame (furnace) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
Chamotte brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay bricks combine high heat capacity (it is a very "capacious" heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick in this case can not be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with oven bricks at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of the furnace. Often its quality is recommended to be determined by the color depth, but this method is valid only for those products for which clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a qualitative sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should make a sonorous and clear sound, and when it falls from a certain height, it breaks into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds to tapping, and when it falls, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar.
High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if irregular furnace firing is expected. The fact is that a dried clay solution with insufficient heating can be saturated with moisture and become sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique hatching with filling), a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used instead of clay. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: mortars of excellent quality are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so its amount in the solution is sought to be minimized.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

clay is soaked for a day, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the mortar is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

trowel;
pick hammer;
cutting for seams;
mortar shovel.

The stove-maker should have a rail-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By setting 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heater

The method of calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires great experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 of the furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values are accepted:

under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of 17.5 m 2, will produce 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be enough for a house with an area of 80–100 m 2.

The calculation of the furnace is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. Rather than design and manufacture a home-made firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

The firebox in size and location of fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
For a furnace that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded firebox from sheet steel; for permanent use, you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
The depth of the ash shaft (lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace is fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if wood fuel or pellets are the main one.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, head height above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the furnace, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the furnace begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to make an accurate calculation by hand is to simply count the bricks in orders, which will only take about an hour. More modern version- simulate the furnace in one of the computer programs designed for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a place, schemes

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location in it. various premises. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will qualitatively heat the entire building, and in summer, with open window, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

IN big house with permanent residence, the furnace can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.

And in this way, a brick oven can be installed in an economy class dwelling:

When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:

A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
The chimney must not come into contact with attic beams and roof rafters. In this case, it should be borne in mind that in the intersection area of \u200b\u200bthe attic floor, it has a broadening, called fluff.
The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating plate, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is capable of withstanding a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations internal walls(including T-shaped). Wherein minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
It is allowed to build a small Russian stove on the basis of wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), based on the ground or rubble masonry of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consists in laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, it can be rubble. An ordinary oven (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the furnace by at least 50 mm.

The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:

roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
it remains to lay last layer- basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can begin only after upper layer dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work on the floor in front of the future stove, it is necessary to build a fireproof coating, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating must be at least 300 mm from the furnace, while its side edges must extend beyond the furnace by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The stove is placed in accordance with the order (see Fig.).

Adhere to the following rules:

The seams between the bricks in the vault of the firebox and the underfire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
Bandaging of seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry cannot be done - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
The laying must be carried out with dressing of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by an adjacent brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that the verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and they are guided in the future.
Doors and shutters are fixed in the masonry by means of a binding wire laid in the seams, or with the help of clamps made of a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and flame dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In the fluff and otter, only the outer size of the chimney increases, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and properly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are advised to lay out the furnace part of the furnace in the formwork.
After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
Next, lay out the flame part, for which they use furnace and fireclay bricks.
Before laying, the blocks are cleaned with a brush from dust. Ceramic brick must be moistened by lowering it into a container of water, then shake it off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution with their hands, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be immediately laid correctly, without correcting or tapping. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after removing the mortar smeared on the brick - it can no longer be used.
After laying a few more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
Install the furnace door - in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
Spread the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being erected, then the row of bricks above the furnace door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast-iron sheet when it is opened.
The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in pure heating furnaces). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
Further, the laying of the furnace is continued according to the order, making out the gas convection system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it can be easily removed, the height of the lower inter-channel transitions (overflows) must be 30-50% higher than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes must be rounded off.

Having completed the construction of the body of the furnace, proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

Vaults are of two types:

flat: arches of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. A flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the furnace using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:

They begin with the installation of extreme support blocks - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size, on the solution.
After the solution dries, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
Keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without violations, this process will take place evenly throughout the arch.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular arch should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss at the level of 10% due to uncontrolled air flow through it.

You also need to heat the stove correctly. With a strongly open blower, from 15 to 20% of heat can fly into the chimney, and if the furnace door is open during fuel combustion, then all 40%.

The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Raw firewood gives less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in them, a large amount of acid condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel bookmark to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

Ignition of the bulk of the fuel is carried out with a torch, paper, etc. It is forbidden to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to cover the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. Optimal mode combustion is characterized yellow fire; if it turned white - the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances are released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including from soot)

Cleaning and repair of the furnace is usually carried out in the summer, but in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and with a large amount of it, the stove will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.

The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any damage or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold the oven with your own hands

Whichever version of the brick oven you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, there will be no friendship between them.