diamond_d 08-07-2013 14:17

Dear comrades. I have 2 backpacks, one 55 l with an aluminum frame, and the other 90 l, but without it. There are holes for them, closed with Velcro. I'm just scratching my head of what you can do yourself? Their what material to be strong and light. Can you advise where to buy something?

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most people respects badge..."BR"...but everybody respects gun

STEPAN1983 08-07-2013 19:21

STEPAN1983 08-07-2013 23:02

north wind 08-07-2013 23:34

Well, or MOLLE II. They are sold on ebay for 500 re. Repair, of course, is more difficult than Alice's.

diamond_d 10-07-2013 23:07

Yes, I only need 2 aluminum sticks to put them in pockets along my back. Tell me where to get these 2 sticks are the same

diamond_d 11-07-2013 12:50

Maybe not sticks, but plates? In the photo, the backpack at the top sticks out a little ..

these are exactly what I need, and the pockets on my backpack are the same as in the photo, only longer. Here's where to get/buy/sleep@#$%&did?

Hunter07 11-07-2013 18:16

diamond_d 12-07-2013 10:41

quote: Originally posted by Hunter07:

I have at work. Length and width are up to you.

I'll take measurements today and let you know. I think about 80 cm, and the width is about the same as in your photo.

Bogdan-Omsk 12-07-2013 18:15

quote: Originally posted by North Wind:

Well, or MOLLE II. They are sold on ebay for 500 re. Repair, of course, is more difficult than Alice's.

where can i get it cheap??? with the transfer from them, it will probably come out a lot

Claude 12-07-2013 21:45

I would also like to find a frame from a Swedish backpack.

Hunter07 14-07-2013 10:23

diamond_d 14-07-2013 11:35

quote: Originally posted by Hunter07:

I have at work. Length and width are up to you.

and about what will this pleasure arise for me?

Hunter07 14-07-2013 16:13

quote: and about what will this pleasure arise for me?

I'll have to come to Lyubertsy. I tried on mine. 40X3 mm. I'll try to look for 35 mm, but 40 mm is better, a tighter band, it's still lumin....

diamond_d 14-07-2013 16:39

quote: Originally posted by Hunter07:

I'll have to come to Lyubertsy. I tried on mine. 40X3 mm. I'll try to look for 35 mm, but 40 mm is better, a tighter stripe, it's still lumin...

what if you put a pipe in there? will be even tougher.

Hunter07 14-07-2013 16:51

I don't have pipes

Bogdan-Omsk 14-07-2013 19:23

cut and paste an aluminum ski pole

alexeika 14-07-2013 20:58

yes, in household stores selling all kinds of aluminum profiles, there are also various plates ........... even if it turns out according to the standards http://www.intormetall.ru/prof1/6 clearly 35mm no, even manually with a hacksaw, and that more with a dremel ("grinder"), cutting is not a problem ......... or hammer in and put 30mm

Claude 14-07-2013 21:02

The tube is not a very good replacement. Flat armor bends (sometimes curved ones are also used), spring under load and the shape of the back. The tube is too stiff (compared to flat battens) and straight. It will tear pockets, put pressure on the back. Although I met a backpack with a tubular inner frame, it was U-shaped and of a given shape.

diamond_d 14-07-2013 22:52

Although I met a backpack with a tubular inner frame, it was U-shaped and of a given shape.

so I have such a backpack for 55 liters, which I wrote about in the first topic. It has just a tubular curved U-shaped frame

Bogdan-Omsk 15-07-2013 10:10

quote: Originally posted by alexeika:

or score and put 30mm

just like that, there will be nothing terrible, it will cope with all the loads, you can also use electrical tape, adhesive tape, or heat shrink on it - so that it does not spoil the backpack less. well, cut wide along the entire length
of course it doesn't make sense.

diamond_d 16-07-2013 20:02

so tubes don't fit at all?

Bogdan-Omsk 16-07-2013 20:14

rightly said, flat under the back arched. I think the tubes can and hurt the back to press. here is a slightly different design - not a frame in the literal sense.

Hunter07 17-07-2013 22:35

quote: so tubes don't fit at all?

so what? Do you need plates or not?

Rom1983 18-07-2013 12:34

and I will support ski poles - I have them in peak-99 instead of regular plates. they are much stiffer in bending and the ryuk holds its shape well with any load, but I can’t feel them with my back. I advise everyone to use sticks) manufacturers apparently use plates in order to save money.

korvettenkapitan 18-07-2013 08:22

manufacturers apparently use plates in order to save money.

I hasten to disagree, although, perhaps, in some places this fact takes place. But I am satisfied with my Bergen. The plates are working as they should. I think they don't save on the army in the UK.

Rom1983 18-07-2013 17:18

korvettenkapitan 18-07-2013 20:16

quote: Originally posted by Rom1983:

they save on the army everywhere. if you didn’t save money, then you would have a lower jumper on the armor, and the armor would not spring, but would rigidly transfer the load to the belt, and the back and waist pillows would damp the current

It's hard to agree. The armor is in tight pockets made of thick cordura. The back is hard.

Sam99 18-07-2013 20:50

The comrade fine-tuned his backpack "from the 90s" by making a frame from metal-plastic water pipes, put dried branches inside the pipe, for rigidity, cheap and cheerful.

Rom1983 18-07-2013 21:28

quote: Originally posted by Claude:

Flat armor bends (sometimes curved ones are also used), spring under load

quote: Originally posted by korvettenkapitan:

The back is hard.

well, it seems to depend on the execution, apparently ... but the tube is definitely more rigid in bending than the plate, and it can also be bent according to the shape of the back (previously filling it with sand and plugging the ends - in order to save round section in the place of the bend, then, of course, pour out the sand)))

Claude 18-07-2013 23:19

quote: Originally posted by Sam99:

Comrade fine-tuned his ryuk "from the 90s" by making a frame from metal-plastic water pipes,

I saw a frame for a backpack welded from PP pipes. Also very nothing.

A hunter, going on a hunt, must take a gun, equipment, equipment, products, a number of necessary devices. To carry all these items, you will definitely need a capacious hunting backpack. Such products may resemble tourist ones, but they have a number of features.

Types of backpacks

All bags, backpacks for hunting, tourism and fishing are divided by size, internal volume. The classification includes small (one-day backpacks), medium, large items.

Small duffel bags

These items are very popular with hunters. Their price is low, spaciousness is enough for one trip. Typically, such shoulder bags have a volume of up to 20 liters, they are great for traveling short distances, hiking without spending the night, tourist trips. The backpack for hunting will fit a change of clothes, water, food, hygiene products, medicines. As for the material, there are canvas models, with a frame, pendants, and others - they resemble army duffel bags.

Medium size models

Such products have a volume of 25-60 liters, are used for hiking over longer distances. They are durable, lightweight, comfortable to wear, ideal for catching waterfowl, upland game. Such a backpack will include prey, hunter's things - clothes, a thermos, warm clothes, traps.

Large Models

For professionals, the most popular models have impressive dimensions. Their internal volume is from 70 liters, even a tent will fit there, so you can go fishing with an overnight stay. The same bags are used when arriving at hunting bases.

The disadvantages of a large backpack include its serious weight when full. When hiking, you will often have to make halts, because the load on your back will be significant. According to reviews best models have a light anatomical frame, this design makes it easier to carry the bag.

Important! When choosing, you should pay attention to the suspension system - shoulder straps, chest straps, belt, straps for fitting the model. All of them must be adjustable so that the backpack is comfortable, does not interfere with walking, shooting.

Varieties of modern backpacks

Fishing, hunting carriers can be bought at any hunting goods stores - there is a huge selection of models. By design, they are standard, soft, frame, combined.

Standard Models

These are the most inexpensive easel models, resembling an ordinary military duffel bag, but equipped with a reinforcing iron frame, strong adjustable straps (suspension). The size can be any, but it is not recommended to choose large models due to the thick metal frame, they are very heavy. The disadvantages of this modification of backpacks include low ergonomics, high load on the lower back, back.

Models taking into account anatomical features

Such backpacks are "orthopedic" - they are soft, do not squeeze the muscles, the spine. They look like durable backpacks for tourists, they have back supports, straps, and a belt. Their weight is minimal, reliability is high. Minus - the risk of damage to fragile items inside the bag.

Frame structures

The difference between such a carrying and the standard model is the absence of a frame, the presence of special plastic plates. That is, the weight will be lower, while all things inside the carrier will be reliably protected from damage. Durable plates adhere to the back, which makes the backpack comfortable to wear. Some models have foam inserts instead of plastic, which makes them even easier to wear.

The frame of the backpack may have a different design. All of them are divided into the following types:

• internal and external;
• complex and simple;
• with anatomical profiling,
• without profiling.

The outer frames are made of plastic tubes, the inner frames are made of plates. Depending on their number, length, width, the frame can be the simplest and most advanced (complex).

Backpack with chair

For those who have to go far on the hunt, wait a long time, or go fishing in parallel, it is better to choose a combined carrying model. There are backpacks with a gun case where you can conveniently position the gun, but products with a chair are more popular. You can sit down and rest on such a chair at any time. Its design is convenient, because it stands even on uneven ground. True, the weight of such products is impressive and when ordering or buying, you need to take into account your own strengths.

Criterias of choice

You can order and buy a product in the online store with delivery, or choose a thing live, trying it on. In any case, you need to take into account a number of important parameters:

1. Material. The quality of the canvas, accessories plays a big role, low-quality backpacks quickly fail.
2. Functionality. When buying, you must individually determine what functions the hunter needs (the presence of pockets, a chair, the number of departments).
3. Weight. The lighter the backpack, the easier it will be to carry.
4. Spaciousness. It is measured in liters, directly determines the possibility of carrying things in this product.
5. Power load. Most modern backpacks are made according to special patterns, have a design that does not negative influence on the spine.

DIY backpack

Most good backpacks are imported, Russian production have a high price. If the options presented in the store did not fit, you can build a bag with your own hands. You just need to find a pattern on the Internet, pick up desired material, threads, accessories. Many sew backpacks from tarpaulin, but it is better to take a nylon avisent - artificial material, which does not dube, does not freeze, does not swell.

The colors should not be bright - it is better to buy a fabric for the "army" - a protective color, military style, reed, "blizzard". Parachute fabric is also suitable, as long as it is not rustling, too hard, while being waterproof, fireproof (preferably). A piece of even denser material should be bought for the bottom (base), or made double. Elastic capron is used for side pockets, so that you can get the necessary items out of it without unnecessary sounds and movements. A belt, straps, fasteners are also made from durable nylon. You can take ready-made car seat belts.

• belt - 10 mm thick, up to 25 cm wide;
• buckle - strong, easy to unfasten with any hand, without unnecessary time costs;
• cargo support to reduce the load on the back - made of polyethylene foam, lined with fabric;
• the inner part is made of cotton (to avoid slipping);
• zippers, rivets, buttons - durable, made of reliable metal;
• the bottom is made of leather, you can also use a plastic insert.

Note! You don’t need to save on fittings, otherwise the product will quickly fail. To prolong the service life, it is also recommended to line the inside seams with tack tape to reduce the risk of thread fraying. You can make another large pocket from the bottom of the product, where some of the things are put - so you won’t need to look for them at the very bottom, it will become much more convenient to get them out. For sewing an easel backpack, you additionally need to buy a frame made of aluminum, plastic, light alloy.

After preparing all the components, cutting out the details, they start sewing. Separate parts are sewn on a typewriter, often manual stitching, the use of self-tapping screws, and an awl are required.

What is in the backpack - filling

Usually experienced hunters already know very well what to put in a backpack. Beginners should make a list in advance, prepare content - items that may be useful on the hunt. Weapons, equipment are the main components, while the specific choice depends on the type of hunting, the season. Clothes are selected according to the weather (reserve set). Usually they take warm clothes with them, especially when they plan to stay overnight or until late in the evening.

Additionally, you can take:

• soap, towel (or wet wipes);
• documents - personal, for a gun, license;
• money;
• food, drinks (bread, tea, canned food, water);
• dishes (if necessary, a bowler hat, mug, cup, metal spoon);
• first aid kit with medicines.

Heavy items are usually placed at the bottom of the backpack, fragile - away from the back, on top. Essential items should be put in pockets. It is not recommended to tie equipment to a backpack, it will interfere with walking. If there is no other option, the items should be tightly wrapped, wrapped with a film from the rain.

Proper carrying of a backpack

When carrying a bag, you need to make sure that the place of fastening of the straps is in the middle of the shoulder blades, and the wide section distributes the load evenly over the back. The backpack should not slide down or be high, swing to the sides. It is also unacceptable that the load on one side be greater than on the other - this causes problems with the neck.

Overview of popular brands

In the ranking of the best backpacks there are products made in Russia, Europe, even Chinese models of good quality are sold. An example of a small good hunting bag is the Hunterman Tactic 32 32 liter model. In general, manufacturers are trying to combine ergonomics, convenience, spaciousness and high quality fabrics. Below is an overview of the three most purchased backpacks.

Remington

This brand makes high quality backpacks at a moderate cost. There are different models, with unequal volume, functionality. From small backpacks, the Saddle Hunting model (25 liters) is often bought, which has durable metal inserts and camouflage colors.

Chance

Chance backpacks are made from a special 600D Oxford material that does not react to moisture. They have many pockets, different volumes - from 30 liters. The straps are made of leather, the rivets are made of metal, there is a handle at the top for hanging the bag.

MBE

This brand (Russia) sells high-quality products made of Oxford material. Most of the products are frameless, lightweight, the hunter will be comfortable even with a backpack of 60 liters or more.

When choosing a backpack, you need to focus on your own needs, price and quality. In this case, he will serve for many years and become a faithful assistant in the hunt.

In Soviet times, almost every tourist sewed a hiking backpack with his own hands, because the shops were littered with soft Abalakovo or easel Yermaks, we saw new models only in photographs in the Tourist magazine. Although, of course, tailoring tourist backpacks was not an easy task, because everything was in short supply: from fabric to accessories.

But if you have a desire and free leisure, and suitable fabric and accessories are hidden in the bins, then my step-by-step instruction about how to sew a 90 liter hiking backpack (frame) will help you make a really useful product.

Useful articles:

Do-it-yourself hiking backpack: materials and accessories

In order to sew a tourist backpack with your own hands, you will need:

Dense nylon type avizent or cordura - 3 sq. m or cut 1.5*2 m
Thin nylon like parachute silk or bologna - 1 sq. m or cut 1.5*0.70 m
Isolon (tourist foam rug) - 1 sq. m, 1 cm thick
Sling narrow, 25 mm - 7 m
Sling wide 45 mm - 2 m
Tightening buckle - 14 pcs.
Snap-in buckle - 2 pcs.
Snap-in buckle, wide for belt - 1 pc.
Lightning - 20 cm, 1-3 pcs. depending on the number of pockets
Lightning - 30 cm, 1 pc.
Tape for strengthening the seams - 2 m, 1-1.5 cm wide
Tube rope - 1.30 m, 3 mm diameter
Aluminum tube - 2 pieces, length 70 cm, diameter 4 mm
or plate - 2 pieces, length 70 cm, width 2 cm

The dimensions on the pattern of the hiking backpack are indicated in centimeters, excluding seam allowances. If you want to sew not a 90 liter, but a 75 liter backpack, then reduce all dimensions of the “body” of the backpack by 10 cm, the height of the back of the backpack by 10 cm, and the circumference of the tube by 20 cm.

How to sew a backpack: cutting out the main elements

Sewing a tourist backpack begins with cutting out its main elements. Do not forget to melt the edges of the fabric with a lighter after cutting so that they do not fray. It is better to stitch the seams with nylon or lavsan threads, in a zigzag. If the machine does not zigzag, sew two parallel stitches.

Rice. 1. The “body” of the backpack is 75 * 80-85 with marked pockets if you need them (I recommend only one - the central one). At the bottom, in the corners, you can immediately sew on slings, 40 cm long and 25 mm wide, reinforcing them with fabric scarves.

Rice. a, b. Pattern of pockets, you need to sew a zipper into them (we leave the place of its sewing at your discretion, we advise you to decide on this in advance before you start sewing a tourist backpack with your own hands).

Rice. 2. The back of the backpack is 75*30 with a bottom 26*33 made of thick nylon. The bottom can be sewn separately, but it is better to cut them in one panel, which reduces the number of seams.

Rice. 3. Shoulder straps: two of thick nylon, two of thin. The same shape should be cut out two blanks of isolon (foam). The second strap must be cut in a mirror image.

Sew together a dense and thin part, stitching them to each other along the contour. Unscrew and insert a strip of isolon inside. On top of the dense side of the strap, sew a 25 mm wide sling, stitching it in 3-4 places across. The sling should end in the same place as the strap and end with a tightening buckle.

Rice. 4. Valve 32*26. Cut and sew, sewing on a thin fabric (Fig. c), as if making a box. Sew a 30 cm zipper, either along the seam or in the center of the wide wall, making a slit. Sew 4 tightening buckles on the corners.

We sew a hiking backpack: making a back

Now let's get down to the most difficult thing in such a matter as sewing a hiking backpack - making a back.

Rice. 5. Take the previously cut back of the backpack (Fig. 2). Sew 2 strips 2.5-4 cm wide to it (tunnels for the future frame - tubes or plates).

Under the tubes, a sling 25 mm wide is suitable, under the plates - a strip of dense nylon. Sew on 6 tightening buckles as indicated on Rice. 5, 4 slings of 25 mm - 2 at the top and at the bottom. In the center of the back, sew a handle loop from a 25 mm sling at a distance of 25 cm from the top edge.

Rice. 6. Sew the finished shoulder straps over the handle loop. If your height is 170-180 cm - at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom edge. If higher - 55 cm. If lower - 45 cm. If you are not trying for yourself, then check this parameter before sewing a backpack.

Rice. 8. Cut out the detail from isolon and soft nylon. Line them up with each other.

Rice. 7. Find the part from Fig. 8 on the back of the backpack over the straps. Sew the lower part of the part (trapezoid) with two lines across the back, so that a belt can be inserted between them.

Rice. 9. The belt is made in the same way as the shoulder straps (Fig. 3): dense fabric, isolon, thin fabric are sewn together. Sew a wide sling on top (you can use a car seat belt), sew a snap-on wide buckle on one side. Attach 2 additional slings 25 mm wide, 40 cm long to the edges of the belt (they will attach the belt to the “body” of the backpack), sew buckles at the place of their “docking” with the backpack.

Rice. 10. Take the "body" of the backpack (Fig.1) and sew on it slings with a width of 25 mm as shown in the figure.

Details Rice. 10 And Rice. 7 sew together inside out - pockets and straps inward, and seams outward.

Reinforce the main seams by attaching a braid to them.

Rice. eleven. Cut out a tube in the form of a pipe from soft fabric 30 * 110. Bend the fabric from its wide side to make a drawstring and stitch. The width of the drawstring is 1-2 cm, depending on the thickness of the rope for tightening the tube, which you are going to thread through it.

Sew the tube to the top of the backpack. Turn out the backpack. Insert into pre-sewn strips (Fig.5) aluminum plates or tubes cut to size before stitching the backpack. Fasten the valve, insert the belt and tuck the second part of the clip-on buckle into one of its straps. Fasten the belt with thin straps to the backpack.

Inspect the backpack, if something, in your opinion, is missing, add it. Ready! You managed to successfully sew a hiking backpack with your own hands!

Perhaps, having improved our patterns, you will sew a more perfect hiking backpack with your own hands.

Dmitry Ryumkin specially for

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When you go hiking, you want your back to be as comfortable as possible. Even if you don't know it before the hike, in the mountains you understand it within the first hour. Because if your back is uncomfortable, it is uncomfortable for you, the group, the leader, even the mountains seem to be sad because the backpack does not fit correctly on the back. So here it is so that your back is comfortable, you need to choose a backpack with a frame that suits you.

So, here they are, views of the “back” of travel backpacks.

Soft backpacks.

No frame, as a class, straps sewn stupidly on the bag for things. The size of both the shoulder and waist straps can be adjusted, but the size for the back is never. You choose such a backpack in the store once and for all just for yourself - either it suits you, or look for a backpack with other parameters. Due to the lack of a frame, such backpacks can weigh very little - there were specimens with a displacement of 100 liters and a weight of 600 grams. For comparison: an 80-liter frame Deuter weighs 3 kg (!) With a penny.

Try to imagine a bag with shoulder straps - this is how a soft backpack feels on you. So that nothing presses in the back (and something will press, even if the backpack is stuffed with cotton wool from top to bottom), something is usually slipped under the back inside instead of a frame. Most often, this is a carimat - either rolled into a tube or laid out along the back (by the way, it was from here that the custom came to roll the carimat inside the backpack, and not tie it with a roll outside).

In the USSR, soft backpacks were ubiquitous. The most popular option - "kolobok" - is still a nightmare for the old masters of sports in tourism. Now soft backpacks have changed their niche: they are bought mainly by easy-goers., which every gram is important in the campaign. Dudes put their 5-8 kilograms of precious weight there, and walk in this way without excess weight. Thus, soft backpacks are convenient when you are not going to load yourself with food and things to the point of unconsciousness.

Machine backpacks.

Easel backpacks were born as “modified” soft ones. In fact easel backpack is the same bag to which a metal frame is attached. As a result, the weight of the backpack itself increases significantly, but it becomes possible to carry a lot of things over long distances. True, this is damn inconvenient to do: a metal frame presses into the back, and never anatomical straps cut the shoulders and waist.

True, there is good news: in easel backpacks, they say, it doesn’t matter in principle what weight is inside the backpack, and they can be loaded to the fullest. As a result, easel backpacks were chosen water explorers, speleologists and lovers of long expeditions. And hipsters, definitely hipsters! Because in old films, backpacks look exactly like this - which means that there is no better props for work trips :)

Eventually rule for buying an easel backpack looks like this: either you know why you are buying it, or you are not buying it.

Anatomical backpacks with internal frame.

Evolution easel backpacks came to the fact that backpacks with an internal frame were invented. This is for today absolute market leader, 90% of backpacks in any travel store are of this type.

Rigid plates are inserted inside the back of the anatomical backpack(metal or plastic). Outside, waist and shoulder straps are sewn onto the fabric, which can almost always be adjusted to fit. required size back, changing the distance between the belt and shoulders. Plates on the inside of the backpack keep hard things from pressing against your back. In addition - almost always - they bend, giving the backpack the ability to follow the shape of the back or even ventilate it. Thanks to this internal frame it is much more convenient to walk with such a backpack than with previous versions.

The main disadvantage of anatomical backpacks is that they are many times heavier. in comparison with frameless ones (the frame itself weighs a lot, no matter what it is made of). But, given the ease of use, the pros still cover this only minus.

Anatomical backpacks with external frame (hybrid frame).

It's like the next model of easel backpacks. Remember, they did not care at all about the back of the unfortunate owner, who was forced to feel all the details of the metal frame? So, anatomical backpacks with an external frame solve this problem.

The frame in such backpacks is taken out and covered with mesh. The mesh when putting on the backpack takes 100% the shape of the back which is more convenient than with an internal frame. But there are a couple of nuances. Firstly, back is not adjustable: the straps are usually sewn to the backpack itself. That is, when buying, you need to decide exactly whether this particular model suits you or not. The second nuance is the shape of the inner space of the backpack. Because of such anatomical backpacks are flattened from the side of the frame, their internal volume is sharply limited, and it can be almost impossible to stuff especially voluminous things like sleeping bags into it. You have to tie it outside.

A tourist going on a trip on foot usually becomes at a dead end before the question - how to adapt things and provisions for carrying on the back, which are collected so much and which are so necessary on the way. Backpack ? But a backpack costs 8-12 rubles and you can get it only in large cities, which, of course, is not available to everyone.

In No. 10 of the "World Tourist" for 1928 there is a description of the "ponyaga" used by the Tungus and Russian hunters of the Angara region. But making a ponyaga is quite difficult (steaming and bending a tree) and requires a lot of time, which is always so short for a tourist going on a hike. Therefore, I want to bring to the attention of tourists the so-called "flyers", which we have been successfully using for several years now on short and long excursions in the Ussuri taiga.

fliers, recommended us explorer traveler VK Arseniev and used by the natives of the Far East, have two options.

The first option makes it possible to quickly strengthen the bale on the flyer, which saves time when stopping at the bivouac and when leaving it.

For the manufacture of flyers in the forest, two branches are cut that look like symmetrical forks, as even as possible. The type of tree is irrelevant. Excess knots and growths are cut off. Fork dimensions, given in the figure, destined for a person with a height of 170 cm; with other growth, they should be changed accordingly.

Then they find a piece of branch with a knot extending at an angle close to 90 °.

This piece of branch is attached by means of wire or twine to one of the forks, previously lightly notched to prevent slipping. Subsequently, when the flyers are ready, a strap is put on this transverse branch.

The strap is an ordinary towel made of the thickest, widest and most durable canvas possible. The same towel can be used on the way when washing. At each end of the towel, a loop of strong twine is tied in such a way that these loops can be moved along the towel to adjust the length of the strap, but if you pull on them, they should not slip.

Now the second fork is taken and tied with its thin ends to the ropes, which have a length equal to the thickness of the bale, that is, approximately 20-30 cm, and in turn are tied to the thin ends of the main flyer.

You can start packing things. This can be a blanket, a strong sheet, a tent cloth or an awning. No special bags are required - they will be dead weight. The blanket is spread out, luggage is compactly laid out on it and carefully wrapped in a spread out cloth so that a dense and long bundle is obtained with a center of gravity in the middle.

Then the main flyer is placed on the ground with the crossbar up. On the crossbar, hooking on perpendicular bitch, put on a strap. Now, putting the bale on the main flyer, they clamp it auxiliary with a flyer and tightly pull together the free (thick) ends of the flyers with a strong rope.

The result is a knapsack ready for carrying. Putting the knapsack on the back, adjust the length of the straps by moving the rope loops at the ends of the towel. Full adjustment is achieved after one or two days of travel.

For example, the crossbar may be tied too high in relation to the flyer, and then the knapsack strongly pulls the shoulders. Or vice versa , if the crossbar is tied too low , then the weight tends to go over the head .

The second option is somewhat simpler, but each time it takes more time to tie the knapsack. It differs from the first one in that it is limited to only one main flyer, and instead of an additional one, a rope serves.

A rope 3-4 mm thick is tied to both thin ends of the main flyer. and 45-50 cm long, and the same rope is tied to the middle of this rope, but 2-3 m long. With these ropes, the bale is tightly tied to the main flyer. That's all. Some of the readers may have a fear that the flyers will put a lot of pressure on the back, but if the branches are chosen fairly even and smooth, then they are not felt at all.

The advantages of flyers over a backpack are as follows:

1. The "dead weight" of a flyer is less than that of a backpack (especially when the wood is dry).

2. The volume of cargo is not as limited as with a backpack.

3. Thanks to the flyers, the load does not adhere tightly to the back with its entire surface, which is why the back sweats less.

4. Due to the high position of the center of gravity and the elongated shape, it is evenly distributed along the back and the straps pull and cut the shoulders less (if only they are thick and wide enough).

5. A knapsack with flyers lies on its back more stable than a backpack and, after some skill in its adapting, with a heavy knapsack you can jump over obstacles.

6. The cost of the flyer is zero!

7. In the event of a breakdown, the flyer is easy to renew, making it even along the way.

In conclusion, it is recommended that tourists get a piece of good oilcloth approximately 80X100 cm in size, sewn to two adjacent corners of the ribbon. In case of rain, you can close the knapsack with this oilcloth or close yourself with it by tying the ribbons at the neck. On bivouacs, oilcloth is placed under the bed, which eliminates the penetration of moisture from damp earth or grass.

And, finally, every tourist should buy a skin for sleeping. The skin can be any: sheepskin, bear, goat, seal, deer. Its size is 60 X 90 cm. and more. This skin is very light , takes up little space , but protects against colds and gives some comfort .

Practical Notes B. Roberg. (magazine "The World Tourist", 1930, No. 4, from the personal library of Ryazansky N.M.)