Features of easel backpacks, selection criteria and benefits. Homemade wooden machine for a backpack Dmitry Ryumkin specially for
For any tourist at some point in time, the question arises of choosing a backpack. Here an important role is played by functionality, price, quality, reliability, spaciousness. It is better to go camping with a half-empty backpack than with a small one, in which half of the necessary things simply do not fit. A good backpack from a well-known company is expensive, not everyone has the opportunity to buy it. And buying a bad backpack, you risk throwing money away.
Below is an opportunity to save money without losing quality. Homemade backpack! And not simple, but composite, i.e. consisting of several sections. Each section can be used both in a module with main parts, and separately. Our backpack will consist of the main part - a bag, two side pockets, an add-on on top and two hanging pouches attached to the belt.
The volume of the main compartment is 60 liters, which will allow you to place up to 30 kg of cargo in it; the upper part occupies 30 liters and holds another 10 kg, the 15 liter valve - 5 kg, the side compartments of 10 liters - another 10 kg. It turns out that the capacity of our backpack is 55 kg, which will be very useful on a long hike. This weight is considered optimal for a hiking backpack. It will be filled to the maximum only at the beginning of the trip. In your travels, you will snack, and the weight will decrease. Important attention is paid to the shoulder straps, which will create a load on the shoulders. They should be wide so as not to dig into the skin, and hard enough.
Homemade Composite Backpack:
1 - belt, 2 - hanging pocket, 3 - side compartment, 4 - main part, 5 - handle, 6 - shoulder strap, 7 - tube, 8 - coupler, 9 - valve.
At the bottom, the straps are attached to rings sewn to the bottom of the backpack. The weight belt serves to evenly distribute the weight. The part adjacent to the back is reinforced with foam, giving the backpack a rigid shape. This design allows you to place overall things in a backpack that will not dig into your back.
Rings are attached to the front of the backpack, to which you can attach a mug and other small necessary things. Sew-on pockets can hold a camera and documents. On top of the backpack there are also double-tape handles for easy transportation on halts.
To regulate the volume of the backpack there is a side lacing. However, with this option, the backpack becomes not monolithic, and you can tip over with it, climbing a mountain. To exclude this possibility, a tube and a valve are made.
Main part:
1 - handle, 2 - side compartments, 3 - pocket attachments, 4 - shoulder strap attachment, 5 - belt, 6 - eyelet, 7 - reinforcing strip, 8 - back frame, 9 - tightening strap, 10 - waist belt, 11 - bottom, 12 - rings, 13 - fasteners, 14 - frontal part.
The valve is equipped with a zipper, so you can put things in it that will be used more than others on a hike. It is possible to adjust the position of the valve by means of belts. The valve is removable, it can be used separately from the backpack as a handbag. The side segments can be detached. You can use them as small backpacks for small trips. They are attached to the bag with straps and ribbons sewn on the sides of the main bag.
Modern backpacks are made of high-strength synthetic materials. They are resistant to different climatic conditions. Most the best option will use technical tarpaulin to make a backpack. Thinner fabrics will tear, quickly lose their shape on a hike. However, they can be used to make additional pockets of a backpack that are not subject to heavy loads. There is also a combination option.
The cord for shoulder straps is made of nylon. Metal rings are used as fasteners. Lightning should be chosen large, plastic.
Assembling a composite backpack.
When starting assembly, it is recommended to perform the following actions: sew fasteners for screeds on the sides of the main section, and rings to the bottom. Connect all parts of the backpack, fasten the ties. Sew the weight belt, shoulder straps, making them from several layers, and, lastly, the sides of the main bag to the bottom. Having fixed all the seams, sew the tube and secure the rest of the composite backpack.
diamond_d 08-07-2013 14:17
Dear comrades. I have 2 backpacks, one 55 l with an aluminum frame, and the other 90 l, but without it. There are holes for them, closed with Velcro. I'm just scratching my head of what you can do yourself? Their what material to be strong and light. Can you advise where to buy something?
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most people respects badge..."BR"...but everybody respects gun
STEPAN1983 08-07-2013 19:21
STEPAN1983 08-07-2013 23:02
north wind 08-07-2013 23:34
Well, or MOLLE II. They are sold on ebay for 500 re. Repair, of course, is more difficult than Alice's.
diamond_d 10-07-2013 23:07
Yes, I only need 2 aluminum sticks to put them in pockets along my back. Tell me where to get these 2 sticks are the same
diamond_d 11-07-2013 12:50
Maybe not sticks, but plates? In the photo, the backpack at the top sticks out a little ..
these are exactly what I need, and the pockets on my backpack are the same as in the photo, only longer. Here's where to get/buy/sleep@#$%&did?
Hunter07 11-07-2013 18:16
diamond_d 12-07-2013 10:41
quote: Originally posted by Hunter07:
I have at work. Length and width are up to you.
I'll take measurements today and let you know. I think about 80 cm, and the width is about the same as in your photo.
Bogdan-Omsk 12-07-2013 18:15
quote: Originally posted by North Wind:
Well, or MOLLE II. They are sold on ebay for 500 re. Repair, of course, is more difficult than Alice's.
where can i get it cheap??? with the transfer from them, it will probably come out a lot
Claude 12-07-2013 21:45
I would also like to find a frame from a Swedish backpack.
Hunter07 14-07-2013 10:23
diamond_d 14-07-2013 11:35
quote: Originally posted by Hunter07:
I have at work. Length and width are up to you.
and about what will this pleasure arise for me?
Hunter07 14-07-2013 16:13
quote: and about what will this pleasure arise for me?
I'll have to come to Lyubertsy. I tried on mine. 40X3 mm. I'll try to look for 35 mm, but 40 mm is better, a tighter band, it's still lumin....
diamond_d 14-07-2013 16:39
quote: Originally posted by Hunter07:
I'll have to come to Lyubertsy. I tried on mine. 40X3 mm. I'll try to look for 35 mm, but 40 mm is better, a tighter stripe, it's still lumin...
what if you put a pipe in there? will be even tougher.
Hunter07 14-07-2013 16:51
I don't have pipes
Bogdan-Omsk 14-07-2013 19:23
cut and paste an aluminum ski pole
alexeika 14-07-2013 20:58
yes, in household stores selling all kinds of aluminum profiles, there are also various plates ........... even if it turns out according to the standards http://www.intormetall.ru/prof1/6 clearly 35mm no, even manually with a hacksaw, and that more with a dremel ("grinder"), cutting is not a problem ......... or hammer in and put 30mm
Claude 14-07-2013 21:02
The tube is not a very good replacement. Flat armor bends (sometimes curved ones are also used), spring under load and the shape of the back. The tube is too stiff (compared to flat battens) and straight. It will tear pockets, put pressure on the back. Although I met a backpack with a tubular inner frame, it was U-shaped and of a given shape.
diamond_d 14-07-2013 22:52
Although I met a backpack with a tubular inner frame, it was U-shaped and of a given shape.
so I have such a backpack for 55 liters, which I wrote about in the first topic. It has just a tubular curved U-shaped frame
Bogdan-Omsk 15-07-2013 10:10
quote: Originally posted by alexeika:
or score and put 30mm
just like that, there will be nothing terrible, it will cope with all the loads, you can also use electrical tape, adhesive tape, or heat shrink on it - so that it does not spoil the backpack less. well, cut wide along the entire length
of course it doesn't make sense.
diamond_d 16-07-2013 20:02
so tubes don't fit at all?
Bogdan-Omsk 16-07-2013 20:14
rightly said, flat under the back arched. I think the tubes can and hurt the back to press. here is a slightly different design - not a frame in the literal sense.
Hunter07 17-07-2013 22:35
quote: so tubes don't fit at all?
so what? Do you need plates or not?
Rom1983 18-07-2013 12:34
and I will support ski poles - I have them in peak-99 instead of regular plates. they are much stiffer in bending and the ryuk holds its shape well with any load, but I can’t feel them with my back. I advise everyone to use sticks) manufacturers apparently use plates in order to save money.
korvettenkapitan 18-07-2013 08:22
manufacturers apparently use plates in order to save money.
I hasten to disagree, although, perhaps, in some places this fact takes place. But I am satisfied with my Bergen. The plates are working as they should. I think they don't save on the army in the UK.
Rom1983 18-07-2013 17:18
korvettenkapitan 18-07-2013 20:16
quote: Originally posted by Rom1983:
they save on the army everywhere. if you didn’t save money, then you would have a lower jumper on the armor, and the armor would not spring, but would rigidly transfer the load to the belt, and the back and waist pillows would damp the current
It's hard to agree. The armor is in tight pockets made of thick cordura. The back is hard.
Sam99 18-07-2013 20:50
The comrade fine-tuned his backpack "from the 90s" by making a frame from metal-plastic water pipes, put dried branches inside the pipe, for rigidity, cheap and cheerful.
Rom1983 18-07-2013 21:28
quote: Originally posted by Claude:
Flat armor bends (sometimes curved ones are also used), spring under load
quote: Originally posted by korvettenkapitan:
The back is hard.
well, it seems to depend on the execution, apparently ... but the tube is definitely more rigid in bending than the plate, and it can also be bent according to the shape of the back (previously filling it with sand and plugging the ends - in order to save round section in the place of the bend, then, of course, pour out the sand)))
Claude 18-07-2013 23:19
quote: Originally posted by Sam99:
Comrade fine-tuned his ryuk "from the 90s" by making a frame from metal-plastic water pipes,
I saw a frame for a backpack welded from PP pipes. Also very nothing.
Our housewives, especially the elderly, have long and appreciated the gurney - a small two-wheeled cart with a bag attached to its frame, resembling a tourist backpack in shape. How many different purchases they carry on these gurneys, returning from the market or from the store! It turned out that a small gurney, whose official carrying capacity is only 20 kg, can withstand 30, 40 or more kilograms!
The gurney was quickly adopted by tourists, primarily kayakers. It was on her that huge bales with packed collapsible boats migrated from their backs. Outside the city, at the bivouac, the cart facilitates chores, such as transporting water and firewood to the camp kitchen.
And why not throw a heavy backpack off your shoulders and put it on wheels? Now it is difficult to say which of the tourists was the first to come up with such an idea - to abandon the ancient method of carrying weights - “on your own hump”. Yes, it doesn't matter. An excellent design of a one-wheeled trolley for a tourist backpack was sent to us from Ufa by a restless DIYer - V.V. Vitaly Vasilievich turned a two-wheeled gurney into a one-wheeled vehicle, thanks to which its cross-country ability and maneuverability have greatly improved, and weight has been reduced.
A general view of the wheelchair "Tourist" is shown in Figure 1; a diagram in two projections is in Figure 2. The wheel size 12X2 1/2 is taken from a children's scooter, the fork is from a scooter or a bicycle. If it is not possible to get the finished plug, it is made from a thin-walled steel tube Ø 20 mm, bent according to the drawing or welded from three children. In order to bend the tube, it must be tightly packed with well-dried sand, and the ends closed with wooden plugs. Then, on a forge or in the flame of a strong blowtorch, heat the pipe to a bright red heat and bend it on a metal mandrel of the appropriate diameter.
A drawbar made of a steel pipe with an outer Ø 30 mm is welded to the fork, having two crossbars made of a steel angle for attaching the loading platform, a folding stand and a handle. The drawbar can be made folding (breaking or telescopic), then the unassembled wheelchair can fit in a backpack. The cargo platform is made of plywood 5-6 mm thick and is attached to the crossbars with M3 bolts. Depending on the type of backpack available, it is advisable to rivet ears or rings to the cargo platform for quick “mooring” it during loading. It should be borne in mind that the backpack, when transported on the described stretcher, must be tightly packed and tightly tied to the platform, otherwise the stability of the entire system deteriorates and transportation becomes tedious.
FROM THE EDITOR:
In our opinion, the design of the wheelchair proposed by V.V. Petrovsky opens up wide possibilities for “transferring to the wheel” various loads that tourists still carry on their backs. So, for example, the new Ermak easel backpack, which has recently gone on sale, can become much more convenient to use if it is equipped with easily removable wheels, etc.
The editors hope that tourists will share their experience in creating various inventory and equipment on the pages of the magazine: boats, kayaks, tents, sleeping bags, backpacks, campfire equipment.
In recent years, automoto tourism has become more and more popular. Of great interest in this regard are various trailers to cars, roof and motorcycle trunks, sleeping complexes.
In Soviet times camping backpack Almost every tourist sewed with his own hands, because the shops were littered with soft Abalakovo or easel "Ermaks", we saw new models only in photographs in the magazine "Tourist". Although, of course, tailoring tourist backpacks was not an easy task, because everything was in short supply: from fabric to accessories.
But if you have a desire and free leisure, and suitable fabric and accessories are hidden in the bins, then my step-by-step instruction about how to sew a 90 liter hiking backpack (frame) will help you make a really useful product.
Useful articles:
Do-it-yourself hiking backpack: materials and accessories
In order to sew a tourist backpack with your own hands, you will need:
Dense nylon type avizent or cordura - 3 sq. m or cut 1.5*2 m
Thin nylon like parachute silk or bologna - 1 sq. m or cut 1.5*0.70 m
Isolon (tourist foam rug) - 1 sq. m, 1 cm thick
Sling narrow, 25 mm - 7 m
Sling wide 45 mm - 2 m
Tightening buckle - 14 pcs.
Snap-in buckle - 2 pcs.
Snap-in buckle, wide for belt - 1 pc.
Lightning - 20 cm, 1-3 pcs. depending on the number of pockets
Lightning - 30 cm, 1 pc.
Tape for strengthening the seams - 2 m, 1-1.5 cm wide
Tube rope - 1.30 m, 3 mm diameter
Aluminum tube - 2 pieces, length 70 cm, diameter 4 mm
or plate - 2 pieces, length 70 cm, width 2 cm
The dimensions on the pattern of the hiking backpack are indicated in centimeters, excluding seam allowances. If you want to sew not a 90 liter, but a 75 liter backpack, then reduce all dimensions of the “body” of the backpack by 10 cm, the height of the back of the backpack by 10 cm, and the circumference of the tube by 20 cm.
How to sew a backpack: cutting out the main elements
Sewing a tourist backpack begins with cutting out its main elements. Do not forget to melt the edges of the fabric with a lighter after cutting so that they do not fray. It is better to stitch the seams with nylon or lavsan threads, in a zigzag. If the machine does not zigzag, sew two parallel stitches.
Rice. 1. The “body” of the backpack is 75 * 80-85 with marked pockets if you need them (I recommend only one - the central one). At the bottom, in the corners, you can immediately sew on slings, 40 cm long and 25 mm wide, reinforcing them with fabric scarves.
Rice. a, b. Pattern of pockets, you need to sew a zipper into them (we leave the place of its sewing at your discretion, we advise you to decide on this in advance before you start sewing a tourist backpack with your own hands).
Rice. 2. The back of the backpack is 75*30 with a bottom 26*33 made of thick nylon. The bottom can be sewn separately, but it is better to cut them in one panel, which reduces the number of seams.
Rice. 3. Shoulder straps: two of thick nylon, two of thin. The same shape should be cut out two blanks of isolon (foam). The second strap must be cut in a mirror image.
Sew together a dense and thin part, stitching them to each other along the contour. Unscrew and insert a strip of isolon inside. On top of the dense side of the strap, sew a 25 mm wide sling, stitching it in 3-4 places across. The sling should end in the same place as the strap and end with a tightening buckle.
Rice. 4. Valve 32*26. Cut and sew, sewing on a thin fabric (Fig. c), as if making a box. Sew a 30 cm zipper, either along the seam or in the center of the wide wall, making a slit. Sew 4 tightening buckles on the corners.
We sew a hiking backpack: making a back
Now let's get down to the most difficult thing in such a matter as sewing a hiking backpack - making a back.
Rice. 5. Take the previously cut back of the backpack (Fig. 2). Sew 2 strips 2.5-4 cm wide to it (tunnels for the future frame - tubes or plates).
Under the tubes, a sling 25 mm wide is suitable, under the plates - a strip of dense nylon. Sew on 6 tightening buckles as indicated on Rice. 5, 4 slings of 25 mm - 2 at the top and at the bottom. In the center of the back, sew a handle loop from a 25 mm sling at a distance of 25 cm from the top edge.
Rice. 6. Sew the finished shoulder straps over the handle loop. If your height is 170-180 cm - at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom edge. If higher - 55 cm. If lower - 45 cm. If you are not trying for yourself, then check this parameter before sewing a backpack.
Rice. 8. Cut out the detail from isolon and soft nylon. Line them up with each other.
Rice. 7. Find the part from Fig. 8 on the back of the backpack over the straps. Sew the lower part of the part (trapezoid) with two lines across the back, so that a belt can be inserted between them.
Rice. 9. The belt is made in the same way as the shoulder straps (Fig. 3): dense fabric, isolon, thin fabric are sewn together. Sew a wide sling on top (you can use a car seat belt), sew a snap-on wide buckle on one side. Attach 2 additional slings 25 mm wide, 40 cm long to the edges of the belt (they will attach the belt to the “body” of the backpack), sew buckles at the place of their “docking” with the backpack.
Rice. 10. Take the "body" of the backpack (Fig.1) and sew on it slings with a width of 25 mm as shown in the figure.
Details Rice. 10 And Rice. 7 sew together inside out - pockets and straps inward, and seams outward.
Reinforce the main seams by attaching a braid to them.
Rice. eleven. Cut out a tube in the form of a pipe from soft fabric 30 * 110. Bend the fabric from its wide side to make a drawstring and stitch. The width of the drawstring is 1-2 cm, depending on the thickness of the rope for tightening the tube, which you are going to thread through it.
Sew the tube to the top of the backpack. Turn out the backpack. Insert into pre-sewn strips (Fig.5) aluminum plates or tubes cut to size before stitching the backpack. Fasten the valve, insert the belt and tuck the second part of the clip-on buckle into one of its straps. Fasten the belt with thin straps to the backpack.
Inspect the backpack, if something, in your opinion, is missing, add it. Ready! You managed to successfully sew a hiking backpack with your own hands!
Perhaps, having improved our patterns, you will sew a more perfect hiking backpack with your own hands.
Dmitry Ryumkin specially for
