Installation of an acrylic bathtub recommendations. How to install a corner bath. Necessary materials and tools

Acrylic bathtubs due to their merits (lightness, high functionality, variety of shapes and sizes, reasonable price) are in great demand among the population. However, their main advantage associated with low weight is at the same time the main disadvantage - an acrylic product changes its shape under load and makes noise during filling with water.

Typically, the manufacturer supplies its products with a metal frame to which the legs are attached, but too often this equipment and assembly scheme does not provide the required level of stability. Repair and construction organizations, on their own or at the request of the consumer, have to take additional measures to ensure reliable installation, similar methods are used if installation is being carried out acrylic bath with your own hands.

Disadvantages of the factory design and the main methods for high-quality installation of an acrylic bath

Fitting an acrylic bathtub to factory fittings with legs is a fairly simple job that any homeowner can do if they read the owner's manual. But such an installation has the following disadvantages:

• The bottom settles under heavy loads if a standard design of two pieces of metal plates with legs located on the sides is used for installation on the floor.
• The side walls of the bathroom at the point of contact with the facing tiles sag, and the sealant covering the seam peels off - this leads to water leaks along the perimeter of the walls onto the floor. High humidity builds up in the bathroom, leading to mold on the decorative coating walls, ceilings and accelerates the corrosion of electrical outlets, lamps, household appliances.
• Not a single manufacturer takes measures for additional soundproofing of bathtubs, which, during filling, resemble an empty basin, which is hit by a water jet. The metal fastening profile exacerbates the situation even more, being an excellent conductor of sound.
• In all designs, the support strips and the frame are attached to the bottom with metal screws. During operation, the possibility of their self-unscrewing due to vibrations and deformation of the acrylic body from loads is not ruled out - this can lead to the mobility of the bath and, accordingly, loss of tightness of the silicone waterproofing around the perimeter.

To deal with these problems, the following methods are used:

• To eliminate the deflection of the side walls of the baths around the perimeter, observing the horizontal level, special factory support plates are attached, and if they are not included in the package, a metal profile or a wooden bar, on which the product is then laid. If the distance from the side of the bathtub to the wall is too large, a part of the trimmed gas silicate block is glued to the tile adhesive under the bottom or a solid support is mounted from them, gluing it to the wall from bottom to top.
• To avoid deflection of the bottom of the bath, various building materials are placed under it, mainly bricks and gas silicate blocks are used. In this case, the bath does not need legs, but they are often left to increase stability.

Another method of strengthening the bottom is the manufacture of a strong steel frame located under its surface (some responsible manufacturers complete their products with a similar design). The technique is used if household needs require maximum space under the bathroom.

• To combat the roar from the water jet, it is necessary to increase the mass and wall thickness, this is achieved by two main methods:

1. Self-adhesive soundproofing materials used in automotive technology are glued to the surface from the outside, while it should be borne in mind that many of them have a bitumen base, which, when heated, can cause a sharp smell of resin in the air. On sale there are special kits for soundproofing steel baths, which can also be used for acrylic products.
2. Cover the outer acrylic surface mounting foam. You should know that the service life of the foam is about 15 years, and it is afraid of exposure to ultraviolet rays, after which it decomposes, loses strength and crumbles.

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation technologies

When deciding how to properly install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, use modern technologies used when carrying out work by repair and construction firms and organizations. For self-installation, a specialized construction tool is not required, except for a puncher, which is used for drilling and strobe, and any homeowner can find screwdrivers, a hammer and a hacksaw for wood. For correct installation a building level is required, for certain work, a grinder with a disc for concrete and metal, a screwdriver, if available, will not interfere.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame

A number of manufacturers produce acrylic bathtubs complete with a rigid frame that reinforces the bottom; it is present in almost all three-dimensional models of complex shape or is included in the package of rectangular models. If the purchased bathtub does not suit the consumer in terms of rigidity, frame fasteners can be purchased separately for any standard size.

basis frame structure is a prefabricated or welded metal frame made of a rectangular metal profile with side stops at the corners and perimeter in complex structures, for installation on the floor, the package includes a number of legs in the amount of four or more pieces. Sometimes the bathtub comes with a factory-welded all-metal frame - it does not need to be assembled and the structure has a higher rigidity than a prefabricated one.

The standard set of the frame system includes vertical racks, legs with plastic thrust bearings, studs, nuts, self-tapping screws, plastic or metal plates for fastening to walls, screen clips if available.

Due to the complexity of the design and the large number of legs, the installation of the frame takes more time than systems on four legs with two plates. Do-it-yourself installation of an acrylic bathtub on a metal frame is carried out in the following sequence:

• They prepare a place for installation, freeing up space in one of the rooms, lay a sheet of cardboard from the package on the floor, place a bathtub turned upside down on it.
• The plastic screen fasteners are screwed with the self-tapping screws provided in the kit into wooden cubes placed under the board from the sides of the screen location.
• A rectangular frame is laid on the bottom, to center it, you can first draw two intersecting perpendicular lines in the middle of the bottom surface of the bath using a tape measure, and place a rectangular metal profile along this guideline. But usually the task is not complicated, the frame is placed in the center visually - the main thing is that it dimensions did not go beyond the perimeter of the bath, and the profile did not interfere with the installation of the screen.
• Through the holes on the frame profile, with the help of a screwdriver, the self-tapping screws included in the kit are screwed into the bottom.
• The legs are assembled by screwing them onto the studs along with nuts and washers: two nuts for the distant supports and three for the legs from the side of the screen.
• The studs are threaded into the holes at the corners of the frame, vertical metal stops are screwed to them between the profile and the side of the bathtub, and the corner fasteners for the screen are pressed with nuts from the front side. The operation is repeated for each of the four corners or around the perimeter for products of complex shape.
• Turn the bathtub over and install it in its location, using the building level, set it to the horizon and the required height.
• If fastening of the sides is provided, they press the bath against the wall and draw a line along the perimeter of the curb with a pencil, then measure the height of the side, deviate from the line this distance and draw another mark parallel to it below. Factory-made or home-made fasteners are installed on it, on which the side of the bath will rest and be fixed.
• After fixing it in the wall, install a decorative screen, screw it with screws to the previously installed plastic or metal corner mounts, close the screw heads with plugs.

On legs

Acrylic bathtub frameless installation on legs is mainly used in product placement rectangular shape, self-assembly is quite simple and does not cause difficulties even for an unprepared homeowner. Installation operations are performed step by step in the following sequence:

• They cover the floor with a sheet of cardboard to prevent scratches on the acrylic surface, laying the bath turned upside down on it.
• Using a tape measure, mark the middle at opposite edges, connect the two points with a longitudinal line with a construction pencil.
• In accordance with the instructions, the required distance is retreated from the edges of the landing site at the bottom (40 - 50 mm), a transverse line is drawn parallel to the short walls of the bathtub.
• Using a tape measure, find the middle of the metal mounting strips, mark it with a pencil, apply them to the pre-drawn transverse marks, aligning the center points.
• The legs are assembled by screwing them onto the studs along with nuts (3 pieces) and washers from the kit.
• Screw the planks to the bottom with self-tapping screws, insert studs into them with pre-installed legs and fixing nuts, adjustable or wrench press the supports to the slats in the corners.
• Turn over and put the bath in a permanent location, align it with a horizontal level and height.
• If the package provides for factory mounting to the walls, mark the lower edge of the side and screw the supports along the line using a perforator, placing them at the same distance from each other (the standard set includes eight mounting plates - four in length and two in width).

On bricks

Sometimes there are situations when the purchased bathtub lacks legs or a frame (for example, when buying “used” products), or the owner of the bathtub has such a weight that not a single frame can withstand, and thin plates with legs simply bend. In addition, with a large weight of the user, there is a threat of mechanical damage to the bottom of low-quality bathtubs without a frame support.

To solve the problem of the lack of factory fasteners and to avoid the above troubles, there is inexpensive way strengthening the bottom by installing the bath on brick supports. For its implementation, you will need several bricks, sand and some cement for diluting the cement-sand mixture, polyurethane foam.

The work is carried out in stages in the following order:

• The cement-sand mixture is diluted in a ratio of 1 to 4, having previously covered with waterproofing the floor area on which the support pad will be placed.
• They put the bath on the floor upside down at the location, outline its surface with a pencil on the floor in the areas of contact, in the absence of access at far points, connects the ends of the drawn contour.
• A support platform is laid out of brick, approximately in 3 - 4 rows, without going beyond the dimensions of the outlined contour and slightly short of the required height - it depends on further operations, for installation on a cement pad, the gap is made equal to 20 mm, when installed on foam, a distance of 20 mm is sufficient 10 mm. Usually, supports are made of several transverse parallel rows of bricks or lay out a solid rectangular area without gaps.
• After the brickwork has hardened, it spreads a cement-sand mortar on its surface and lowers a bath on it, fixing the sides in wall fasteners or laying the curb on the supporting rails from the profile for drywall or wooden beam. Excess squeezed out cement is removed and the cement-sand cushion is completely dry.

Note: It should be noted that a rigid cement support with a movable acrylic bottom is not too good option- the lower surface of the bathtub, when deformed during operation, can peel off the cement, which will create some discomfort during use.

A more successful installation method with good sound insulation due to the large total mass is gluing the bathtub to a brick support with mounting foam, for this:

• The dried brickwork is moistened with water, a bath is installed above it with a gap of about 10 mm (if the sides are not attached to the walls, pieces of tiles or other hard materials are placed under its bottom), several heavy bags with building materials or other cargo are placed inside.
• Foam the free space between the brick support and the bottom with mounting foam.

Sometimes, instead of brick, gas silicate blocks are used, the advantage of which is ease of installation - to obtain the required size, they can be cut with a conventional hacksaw for wood.

When using blocks, installation operations are carried out similarly to work with brickwork- install the bath on a gas silicate support covered with cement mortar or mounting foam.

On bricks and legs

If the purchased bath is installed on legs without using a frame, then two plates do not provide sufficient support rigidity under loads. In this case, an additional support made of bricks or gas silicate blocks is installed under the bottom according to the above technologies. At the same time, the work is greatly simplified:

• The bath is placed on the legs according to the level.
• Brickwork or gas silicate blocks are laid out under it, without removing it from the location and tracking the height (a gap of about 10 mm for the mounting foam) and the dimensions of the support in place.
• Next, a load is placed inside the bath, the surface of the support is wetted with water and the gap is foamed.

On a pedestal

During installation work acrylic bathtubs often situations arise when sewer pipes are located too high in the wall due to errors by unskilled plumbers or for technological reasons. The maximum rise in height by unscrewing the pins of the support legs is not rational - the bath will lose its stability, and a large unaesthetic gap will form between the floor and the factory screen. To solve this problem, a brick pedestal is used (less often it is made for decorative purposes), on which a bath is placed, raising it above the level of the subfloor. The device of this design is only possible for professionals - usually the podium is tiled after installation, and the tiler is engaged in all the work.

The procedure for mounting the pedestal consists of the following sequence of operations:

• The bathroom bowl is preliminarily placed in its location, with a level attached to the side walls, strictly vertically, its contour is transferred to the floor, outlining the boundaries with a construction pencil. If the podium protrudes beyond the dimensions of the bath, draw a line parallel to the marked mark.
• A brick is laid out along the outlined contour, placing it on the edge, the middle is also filled with brick or light gas silicate blocks with small gaps.
• With the help of a transition pipe, a drain sewer pipe is brought out over the podium.
• The surface of the pedestal is leveled with a screed or a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall is glued, on which tiles are then laid.
• The bath is placed on the podium in one of the above ways.

Wall mount

Due to the mobility of acrylic bathtubs, the gaps between the wall and the sides are closed only with elastic materials - silicone sealant, rubber linings. To avoid leaks, it is important to ensure the stability and rigidity of the beads - their movement can lead to peeling of the silicone insulation. There are several common methods for ensuring rigid fixation of the walls of acrylic bathtubs:

Fixing plates. Factory clamps are plates made of metal or plastic, which are screwed onto self-tapping screws using dowels along the perimeter of the sides to the walls at an equal distance from each other. The bath is lowered into them from above, the board fits snugly into the grooves with the support - this eliminates the deflection of the curbs and their displacement along with the bath to the side.

Support rails. The use of a metal profile for drywall or a wooden beam screwed to the walls with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter is the most effective solution to the problem of curb deflection. Unlike factory supports, a frame made of timber or a profile is often mounted for the further installation of a plasterboard-based tiled screen - in this way, the maximum stability of the bath is achieved from all sides.

strobes. Some craftsmen reinforce the walls of acrylic bathtubs by sliding them into slotted strobes - the method is rather laborious and does not look very aesthetically pleasing (a significant part of the side is placed in the wall, breaking the symmetry). It is much easier to make an artificial strobe - the board is led under the tiled lining, and strips of tiles are glued underneath it using waste and scraps of materials (instead of a tile, you can screw a thin wooden beam, metal corner or support).

Sealing joints between board and wall

The main disadvantage of acrylic products is the difficulty in sealing adjoining walls; the following methods are used to solve the problem:

Silicone sealant. The most commonly used method of sealing joints, due to its low cost and ease of application, is to stick a protective masking tape along the contour of the bathroom and on the wall, squeeze the sealant out of the gun into the seam and level it with a finger dipped in soapy water. With certain skills, you can achieve an almost perfect even sealing strip.

adhesive tape. The industry produces a special self-adhesive curb tape made of light rubber, which is glued to the walls and side surface of the bathtub. The technology of its installation is available to any housewife, but it requires accuracy; in case of errors, the tape can always be removed and pasted on another strip.

Plastic plinth. A special corner with rubberized edges is presented on the construction market - when installed, its body is inserted into the gap between the bathroom and the wall, pressing it so that the rubber edging fits snugly against the wall tiles and sides.

Screen installation

Decorative screens, with which manufacturers complete their products, have an aesthetic appearance, match the color of the bathroom, but have one significant drawback - they do not have a technological window (hatch) that allows you to quickly inspect or remove the siphon for preventive cleaning, store washing powders and other products under the bathroom household chemicals.

Therefore, many homeowners during the repair work when installing bathtubs, construction organizations prefer to order the manufacture of a screen or make it on their own from the following materials:

Drywall. Carrying out work on the installation of drywall using a metal profile is within the power of experienced professionals, in addition, a special construction tool is required - a puncher and a screwdriver. Moisture-resistant green plasterboard sheets are screwed to the assembled frame from the front side, on which the facing tiles are then glued. For the cover of the hatch, a rectangular frame is assembled from a profile, drywall of the required size is screwed to it and glued on top of the tile, another option is to purchase a ready-made factory hatch standard size with an outer surface for gluing ceramics on tile adhesive.

Brick. You can lay out the front part with bricks or gas silicate blocks yourself if you have a building level to control the vertical, however, tiling and installing the hatch will require special skills, so such work is usually done by a tiler. The door for the window, as in the above case, is made of a plasterboard profile and a sheet, or a standard size factory design is purchased.

Plastic panels. In this case, the frame for the screen is easier to make from a wooden beam, then it is nailed or screwed to it. plastic panels, a plastic hatch of the desired standard size is purchased from the distribution network and cut into the screen. Unlike previous works, install wooden frame and do-it-yourself plastic panels are much easier; you need a puncher to drill holes in the walls.

Bathtubs made of acrylic are more common products in everyday life compared to metal counterparts, however, when installing them, you have to solve problems associated with a typical drawback of all products made of plastic materials - low rigidity. To solve the problem, construction methods are used - assembly with different ways strengthening the sides and bottom, giving effective results, most of the work is easy to do on your own.

An acrylic bathtub is a construction that requires a reliable, rigid support, as it has thin, plastic walls. There are several ways to install it, but the most reliable and practical is metal carcass. Sometimes a combined method of fastening is also used. If the bottom is thin and sags underfoot, the frame is combined with brickwork supporting the bottom. How to install an acrylic bath with your own hands in detail in this article.

Required Tools

At the first stage of installation of the structure, you should prepare all the necessary fixtures and tools, namely:

• perforator with a drill of the required section and length - for arranging holes in the wall;
• screwdriver- for tightening fasteners when assembling the structure, in addition, they can drill holes in the bath itself, if necessary;
• open end wrench of the appropriate size - to adjust the legs of the bathroom frame in height;
• building corner– to inspect corners;
• roulette;
• building level- to align the structure along the horizon;
• pencil or building marker - for marking.

It is also worth taking care of additional consumables in advance: sealing tape or sanitary corner- for sealing joints between the wall and the bathroom. But you can use a simple silicone sealant if the walls in the room are perfectly flat.

Advantages over mounting on legs - which method is better?

To begin with, all manufacturers of this product recommend using specialized frames in the form of a frame during installation, on which acrylic bathtubs are installed.

Such a design 100% evenly distributes the load on the bowl, exerted by water and the weight of a person, prevents breakage and deflection of the body. At the moment, all manufacturers produce serial frames designed for certain models - there are no universal ones.

What is a framework? Herself frame frame- This is a construction of a square profiled pipe, which is coated with a special powder composition, which prevents its corrosion in a humid room.

The skeleton consists of special stiffening ribs, supports for each corner of the bath and legs that can be adjusted by twisting. Despite the fact that high-strength fibers are used in the production of acrylic bathtubs, it is impossible to install the structure securely without a rigid frame.

Frame advantages:

• uniform load distribution on the structure;
• the bottom of the bath does not “play” under your feet;
• reliable and durable installation;
• when mounted on a frame, fastening to the wall plays a purely symbolic function - so that the bath does not turn over. But such incidents do not happen in practice.

Flaws:

• are expensive;
• complicate installation.

As you can see, the advantages of the frame are obvious.

As for the legs, only their low cost is considered their main advantage. The design is flimsy and unreliable - two crossbars are attached to the bottom of the bath on different sides, and then the legs are screwed to them. It is not difficult to assemble, but it is worth understanding that if the bottom of the bowl is thin, then you will have to mount a brick frame under it. Otherwise, the weight of an adult will be able to bend it.

The advantages of this design:

• low price;
• ease of installation;
• ease of transportation.

Flaws:

• uneven distribution of the load, since the bath does not rest on anything in front;
• side mounts to the wall are required;
• the need to additionally build a frame made of bricks under the bottom of the bowl.

As you can see, there are many more disadvantages, besides this, no one will give you a guarantee that such a design cannot simply roll over if the wall mount is unreliable.

Choosing the optimal metal frame

There are several types of frames used depending on the quality of the material from which the acrylic bowl is made;

1. Frame without side stops for heavy-duty bowls. Complete with such products there are no side stops, there is only the frame itself and legs. Bathtubs with high quality characteristics mounted on a frame corresponding to the shape of the bowl. The bottom of the frame is designed in such a way that the load is distributed as evenly as possible. In this case, the sides do not need to be fixed to the wall, they are made of durable acrylic, and play the role of a reinforced upper frame. In no case should this type of support be chosen for cheap models, since their sides are not designed to withstand high loads on their own.
2. Rigid construction with side supports which also supports the sides of the tub. Despite the fact that such a frame is difficult to mount, it is considered the most reliable and versatile at the moment.
3. Frames for corner baths with hydromassage, made of a square reinforced profile with a high degree of reliability and stability. They are much more expensive, but there is no choice. Hot tubs have big weight and require strong support.

If the frame is not provided in the bath, and the manufacturer put only legs in the kit to reduce the cost of the product, it can be bought separately. The main thing here is to know exactly your font, the most popular: 170x70, 160x70, 150x70,140x70 .

It is worth saying that to save money, you can make a frame for an acrylic bath yourself, but the work is dirty, time-consuming and complicated.

How to properly assemble and install - step by step instructions

The process of installing an acrylic bathtub is not complicated, and it can be easily done on your own in a few hours, without the involvement of plumbers.

What is included:

• Metal profile with pre-drilled holes, cut into the desired dimensions;
• adjustable legs;
• thrust bearings;
• self-tapping screws;
• racks;
• nuts;
• locknuts;
• washers;
• stops for the wall;
• assembly instructions.

Before installation, you need to check the complete set, and if it turns out that something is missing, contact the seller.

How to fix and adjust the legs?

So, all the tools are assembled, the equipment is checked, you can proceed with the installation:

STEP 1. We unpack the bath and lay out all the components in one place for ease of assembly.

STEP 2. We cover the floor with soft rags or cardboard from the packaging to avoid it, and carefully turn the bath upside down. We put it in the middle of the room so that you can get around from any side.

STEP 3. We assemble the bathtub frame according to the instructions attached by the manufacturer: we observe all the indents and attachment points indicated by the manufacturer. It is necessary to put the two longest profile rails on the bottom and screw the horizontal strips for the legs to them with bolts.

Be sure to check with a square that all the planks are perpendicular to each other and the angles between them are 90 degrees. Only then can the bolts be finally tightened.

STEP 4. Collecting legs. On the studs you need to screw the plastic stops and washers with nuts in the sequence as shown in the picture.

STEP 5. We pass the studs with the free end up into the holes of the short profile.

We tighten the nut with our fingers so that the distance between the stop and the bath body is 1-2 mm.

STEP 6. We wind on the protruding end of the stud: a washer, 2 nuts, a washer and a leg - in this sequence. Steps 5 and 6 must be repeated for all other supports.

STEP 7. Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we fasten the longitudinal profiles to the bottom of the acrylic bowl, checking that all the indents specified in the instructions are observed.

Be sure to use the self-tapping screws included in the kit, otherwise you can easily damage the bottom of the tub if the fasteners are longer.

STEP 8. Adjust the length of all legs and carefully tighten all nuts on the studs with a wrench.

STEP 9. We turn the bathtub over and put it on its legs. By twisting, we adjust the height from the floor, it should not be more 65 cm- the most optimal and safe. You can check the horizon using the building level, and if there is a bias, it should be eliminated.

If you want the water in the bowl not to stagnate, then you can make a slight technological bias towards the drain, just half a centimeter is enough. For this, after installing the structure on permanent place, slightly raise the edge opposite from the drain by unscrewing the support leg.

Features of mounting a support for a corner and asymmetric font

The process of mounting the frame on a corner bath is practically is not different from its installation on a rectangular one, the only difference is that the number of profiles and fasteners varies slightly, it all depends on the specific manufacturer, so it’s worth studying the instructions in detail.

It is worth noting that the angular and asymmetric fonts have a fairly large volume, and the frame under them must be reliable and durable. It is highly undesirable to install such a font only on legs, even if they come with the product. Do not spare money and buy a frame for a bathtub from a profiled pipe.

How to attach to the wall?

If your frame provides for additional stops for wall mounting, you must use the following instructions:

STEP 1. On the underside of the sides on the wall we put marks with a marker.

STEP 2. We remove the structure and, using the building level and marker, draw a line for the side of the bathtub.

STEP 3. We attach the side supports, as shown in the figure, and mark the places for drilling.

STEP 4. Using a puncher and an 8mm drill (depending on the size of the dowels, but 8 is usually used), we drill holes to the depth indicated in the instructions.

STEP 5. We fix the side stops to the wall with dowels and self-tapping screws.

STEP 6. For a better fastening effect, we coat the places of support of the sides of the bathtub with sealant.

STEP 7. We put the bath together with the frame on the stops. We press well, fill it with water and coat the joint with the wall with sealant or close it with a corner.

Now you can deal with sewerage and screen installation.

Useful video

For methods of installing a bathtub on a frame, see the video below:

Conclusion

You can install an acrylic bath of any configuration on the frame yourself if you follow all the recommendations of experts and follow the instructions. But if there is no self-confidence, then it is better to turn to professionals. Remember, acrylic construction is very fragile and can burst from careless handling.

The bathtub is one of the most important and necessary elements of the bathroom. Conservative baths made of cast iron and steel have been replaced by more plastic and practical acrylic products. An acrylic bathtub is attached to the wall by adjoining it to the walls of the bathroom. This is done with brackets.

What is an acrylic bath

The main component of this type of plumbing is acrylic. In other words, it is a thermoplastic polymer, the so-called one of the varieties of plastic, widely used for the manufacture of sanitary ware products.

Such plumbing not only has a chic appearance, but also has a high degree of thermal insulation, that is, water collected in the bath long time can maintain the desired temperature. This significantly reduces the consumption of water and electricity in general.

Acrylic bath

These bathtubs are lightweight and have an original shape. It can be delivered from the store on your own, without the involvement of movers. There is a huge selection of a variety of shapes suitable for any interior design.

An acrylic bathtub does not have the property of delamination as it does not have an enamel coating. Caring for it does not require special skills. It interacts well with household detergents.

Preparation

Installation should be done as carefully as possible, this is an extremely delicate material and is easily damaged. It can easily be scratched or damaged even with the slightest pressure on it. First you need to very clearly take measurements of the place where the plumbing is installed. Thanks to various forms, these products are able to easily fit into the available space. Hot and cold water should be brought to the chosen place. cold water, make a drain that meets the standards. It is also worth preparing the necessary tools.

Regardless of the plumbing installation method, you will need the following basic tools:

1. hooks for fixing the sides of the bathroom;
2. level;
3. drill;
4. pencil for marking on the wall;
5. roulette.

Installation methods

As in several ways, described below:

• the most common way is to install on legs. This installation method is the easiest. It happens in the following order:

Legs are screwed to the plumbing, which are adjustable in height. Usually, when buying a bath, such details come with it in the kit. After that, you should move the bath as close as possible to the wall.

The next step is to adjust the legs to the level of the required height. After that, marks should be made on the wall corresponding to the sides of the bath. Hooks - clamps are attached along the lines of marks. They are necessary for a more stable position, acrylic is quite light and flexible material. And if you do not fix the sides, damage to the integrity of the bath is possible. Also, instead of hooks, you can use metal profiles or brackets;

It is possible to install a bath with your own hands. The main condition is the observance of technical and operational standards.

When connecting to the sewer, you should pay special attention to the size of the nozzles, the height of the knee and the bowl. Use only high quality drain gaskets. Only in this case the drain will be airtight, which is very important. If the level of sealing under the bathtub is insufficient, dampness and fungus can spread, which can subsequently provoke the appearance of mold and, over time, damage the finish of the bathtub.

When installing, it is undesirable to remove the protective film from the plumbing, it is better to do this after all the work has been done, in any case it will come into contact with a lot of building materials capable of damaging it. Acrylic is extremely sensitive to mechanical damage. You can independently install the bath, the main thing is to clearly follow and follow the installation instructions.

Side water supply

• draining must be done immediately before attaching the legs or other supporting parts;
• be sure to use hooks for a more secure fixation;
• the distance between the side of the bathtub and the wall must be covered with any solution intended for this. Most often, a special grout or a mixture of gypsum is used. The most practical is silicone sealant. It is a flexible solution capable of springing in cracks. Thus, the sealant reduces the load on the possible fluctuations of plumbing. In other words, the sealant is more flexible, which increases its suitability and longevity of the bath;
• for water resistance, special plastic plinths are installed in the seam joints. They not only protect the seam from water, but also serve as a beautiful finish on the sides of the product.

Installation steps

Regardless of the installation method, there is a specific instruction for the installation of plumbing. It includes several steps:

1. the product is turned over lateral side. An overflow pipe and water drain are being installed;
2. then the overflow and outlet pipes are connected to the siphon;
3. fastening legs (or frame) to plumbing;
4. after that, it is necessary to move the bath to the surface. The product must fit snugly against the wall to prevent moisture from entering outside the sides of the bath;
5. process the drain and siphon;
6. during installation, one side must be made slightly higher than the other. This is done on the drain side so that the liquid from the bath has the opportunity to leave faster and not stagnate;
7. fixing the bath with hooks;
8. after that, all existing seams and cracks should be well sealed.

Acrylic whirlpool tub

Whirlpool bath

It is better to entrust the installation of this type of bathtub to specialists, since the installation is directly related to the electrician. It is also possible to do this on your own, but you will need at least minimal knowledge in connecting electrical engineering. Before installation, it is necessary to carry out water supply and prepare a place for installing a bath. The pipe intended for draining should be no more than ten centimeters high. The bathroom socket should be located near the control units, near the pumps and compressors. Sealing the joints is a prerequisite, if moisture gets under the bottom, all the electronics of the bath may fail, that is, the bath will lose its main function, which will not be so easy to restore. During installation, all pipes should be placed in the front wall of the bath. In case of any malfunctions, the repairmen should have access to the sewerage system.

It is better to connect electricians under the supervision of professionals; in case of incorrect connection, there is a possibility of loss of warranty obligations from the manufacturer. After connecting the electronics and sewerage, it is required to install the mixers and the required panels. The hot tub is installed strictly on the level of the floor. This is a prerequisite for its trouble-free operation. After installing the bath, it is necessary to check its performance and tightness.

Post-installation period

After installation, the bath is ready for use. It is necessary to check its operational properties. To identify minor flaws in the installation, you need to draw liquid into the bath over the overflow hole. Thanks to this, you can see if all the pipes are connected correctly. But for a more attractive look, the installation site should be closed. The most common way is to decorate with plasterboard sheets. It is on them that the tile will be laid in the future.

Decorating is carried out only after attaching the acrylic bath to the wall and mounting it as a whole. A practical way to hide your location sewer pipes is closing it with sliding doors. Thus, in the event of a system malfunction, the cause can be easily determined without completely disassembling the structure. It can also be considered an advantage that under the bathroom you can organize a warehouse for the necessary household chemicals. Funds will always be at hand, while they will not be visible.

Acrylic bathtubs have a number of advantages, the main of which are durability and practicality in use.

On a stand in a plumbing store or in a photo in an online store, an acrylic bathtub, as a rule, appears assembled. Meanwhile, products manufactured by Aquanet arrive in the regions in a disassembled state, and chain stores often supply them in the form of a kind of “Assemble it yourself” constructor. As a result, the question arises of how an acrylic bathtub is installed. .

Task one. How to assemble an acrylic bath frame

Acrylic bathtubs ordered in the Aquanet online store are delivered to the customer with an assembled frame. It remains to install it, if necessary, fix it against the wall using fasteners. Isolate the junction of the bathtub to the wall using a special self-adhesive plinth or plastic corner, which is mounted on sanitary silicone. If the faucet is already installed, you can immediately use the bathroom. To help those to whom the bath came in a disassembled state, that is, the bowl is separate from the frame, instructions are given. And here you already need to apply your abilities as a home master.

To facilitate the task of assembling the frame, the most win-win way to quickly and efficiently install an acrylic bathtub is to contact the service department. At Aquanet, this also automatically doubles the equipment warranty. By the way, service specialists can also help if the bath has arrived at its destination with an already assembled frame. In this case, the craftsmen will level the product, connect the overflow, install, if necessary, the front panel, and process the joints with sealant. That is, they will prepare a turnkey bath, taking into account all the nuances, since they perfectly know the specifics of each model. The operation of an acrylic bath in this case is possible immediately after the departure of the service masters.

If you decide to assemble the frame yourself, then you should keep in mind that the frames are individual for different models of acrylic bathtubs. Moreover, the frame designs are different not only for asymmetric or angular products with an individual shape, but also for rectangular ones. Therefore, for the installation of each model of acrylic bath, a guide has been developed that will help you understand the intricacies of the assembly. It is included with every product purchased from Aquanet.

However, there is also general order actions, unified for all models. For example, let's take a look at step by step how to assemble the frame of a corner acrylic bathtub .

Step 1. Turn the tub upside down and place it on a flat surface that will not damage or scratch the tub. At the corners of the tub, measure a distance of 40 mm from each side to determine the position of the center of the upright.

Step 2 Screw the racks into the MDF mortgages located in the corners of the bathtub, using two 3.5 * 16 self-tapping screws in each rack.

Step 3 Place the frame on the bottom of the bath so that it does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the bath, and connect it to three vertical posts with a bolt and M10 nut through holes with a diameter of 13 mm.

Step 4 Screw the frame with self-tapping screws 3.5x40 to the mortgage on the bottom of the bath in five places.

Step 5 In mortgages from MDF, which are located along the perimeter on the front side, screw the corners to stop the front panel.

Step 6 Insert supports (flags) for fixing the front panel into holes with a diameter of 13 mm on the uprights and fix with M10 lock nuts.

Step 7 In open parts profile pipe insert plastic plugs 25x25.

Step 8 Install the legs into the holes on the frame with a diameter of 13 mm and fix them with nuts. Adjust the legs using a level. The leg height must be 640 mm.

Step 9 Install the front panel between the corners and the edge of the bathtub so that there is a 90 degree angle between the panel and the bathtub. At the same distance from the side of the bath, it is required to drill holes in the panel with a diameter of 8 mm opposite the flags.

Step 10 Screw the panel with self-tapping screws 3.5x40, then screw the decorative part of the plug.

Attention! According to SNiP ( building codes and rules), the height of the acrylic bathtub from the floor to the top of the bathtub should be 60 centimeters. If the bathroom is used by children, the disabled and the elderly, then this figure is less - 50 cm.

Task two. How to install an acrylic bathtub with legs

Budget models of baths, as a rule, are installed on the so-called eco-legs, and not on the frame. They come with a bathroom. You need to install them yourself. Instructions are included with each model. But let's take a look at all the nuances of installing a bath on legs together:

Step 1. On the M12 studs L = 200 mm, screw M12 nuts (locknuts) on both sides at a distance of 3-4 cm. Then, on one side, screw the M12 legs of black plastic and fix them with locknuts.

Step 2 Lay the tub upside down on a clean, flat surface. Measure the protruding part of the bathtub and mark the middle.

Step 3 Place the first load-bearing profile of the frame at the bottom of the bath, stepping back from the edge of the mortgage 50 mm. Connect the middle of the carrier profile with the middle of the mortgage and fasten it in four places with self-tapping screws 4.0 * 20, as in rice. 1.

Step 4 On the drain side, measure 10 mm and install the second carrier profile

Connect the middle of the profile with the middle of the mortgage and fasten in four places with self-tapping screws 4.0 * 20.

Step 5 Install the legs into the holes with a diameter of 13 mm of the carrier profile. From the side where the front panel will be installed, install the fastening box with an M12 washer and an M12 nut. On the other hand, install the legs and fix with an M12 nut, as in rice. 2.

Step 6 Adjust the legs for height. The recommended leg height is 160 mm from the frame.

Attention! When installing the bath, the front panel, if already installed, must be removed. It must be attached to the product last.

Task three. How to fix an acrylic bath

Perhaps the easiest of the tasks. With a reliable frame for installing a bath, it is usually not attached to the wall. But for inner peace, and especially if you put the bath on eco-legs, it is better to provide a secure mount. To do this, you need to take a number of actions.

Step 1. Measure the height from the floor to the edge of the edge of the bathtub and mark the places where the corners are attached (see fig. rice. 3).

Step 2 With a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, make holes in the marked places and install the dowels where the fastening corners should be screwed.

Attention! The bath should not hang on the corners of the fixture. To prevent this, you can adjust the height of the bath with legs.

Task four. How to install the front panel

If you do not sheathe the bath with drywall and do not plan to mount it in the podium, then it is best to close the front with a front panel.

Step 1. For the upper fastening of the front panel (if it is provided), screw the mounting brackets (4 pieces) with 4 * 16 self-tapping screws into the inserts located along the perimeter from the front side of the bathtub. When installing the mounting bracket, provide a distance to the edge of the bath, which is equal to the thickness of the front panel.

Step 2 Screw the M10 nut onto the front panel fastening flags (M10 stud with a welded perforated plate). Insert into the holes of the corners of the frame and fix so that when installing the panel there is an angle of 90 degrees between the panel and the edge of the bath.

Step 3 Position the front panel between the mounting brackets and the front of the bath rim. Align panel. Drill two 8 mm holes at the level of the flags and at the same distance from the edge of the front panel. Screw the front panel with 4 * 16 self-tapping screws with the threaded part of the plug to the fastening flags and screw on the decorative part of the plug.

Attention! If you ordered a model with hydromassage equipment, then you need to take care to make acrylic bath grounding.

If the plumber does not see the difference in installing acrylic and cast iron bathtubs This is not a real plumber. Fiberglass bathtubs have very special qualities, so at each stage of their installation there are subtleties of installation, which you will learn about from our detailed instructions on installing an acrylic bath with your own hands.

Assembling the installation kit

The bath must be turned upside down, on which there is a thickened pad in the center. Two mounting profiles must be placed on it so that all holes for attaching to the bath are no closer than 3 cm to the edge of the thickened section. Fastening is carried out only with self-tapping screws from the kit, if there are none, refer to the instructions and specify the allowable fastener length, otherwise there is a chance to literally pierce the bowl through and through.

Studs must be inserted into the holes at the edges of the profiles and nuts with washers must be screwed on both sides. Rubber shock-absorbing nuts are screwed onto the upper edges of the studs until they stop. By adjusting the position of the nuts, you need to set the height of each leg relative to the support profile. It is equal to the difference between the height of the decorative screen and the passport height of the bowl, taking into account the profile and the upper flanging.

After adjusting the nuts, tighten them well. The difference between large models of baths may be more legs and profiles, and bathtubs with seating may even have additional support system. But they are all going the same way.

Turning the bowl on its legs, you need to install a siphon and an overflow system. The drain pipe is then directed to the intended tie-in point in drainage system and is completed with corrugated PVC hose resistant to high temperatures. If there is a faucet, assemble and mount it, and screw on the flexible pipes for connecting to the water supply.

Bath insulation: why and how

A fiberglass bath conducts heat only slightly worse than cast iron. However, through the walls and bottom, the water cools quite quickly and this is the main way of heat outflow. To improve the thermal insulation of the bowl, it is covered with a layer of foamed polyurethane.

First you need to thoroughly wipe and moisten the back surface of the bowl with a wet cloth. Foam is applied first along the contour of the flanging, then rises to the bottom of the bath in thin (2-3 cm) strips. Apply the foam as quickly as possible so that the previous layer is still sticky and adheres well to fresh foam.

The bottom of the bowl and profiles are covered with a layer twice as thick. To save foam, it is recommended to glue the bottom sections free of profiles with expanded polystyrene plates, and then cover them with a thin layer of foam.

Warming is highly recommended, but not required. It makes sense to refuse foam coverage if you plan to equip a small niche under the bathroom and every centimeter of space is important. Although in such cases, warming even individual sections of the bowl still makes sense.

Installation and adjustment

The place for the installation of the bath must be in a state when the floor and walls are tiled, a gap in the laying of tiles under the bath is allowed. Another option is to install the bathtub before tiling or to fit it under the lowered edge of the tile. This option provides for the flow of water from the walls into the bath, and not under it, however, the shape of the side for such an installation must be appropriate.

When placing the bowl in place, it may require further adjustment. There are two reasons for this: the need to align the bath along the seams of the tiles or the rocking of the bowl on four legs. The adjustment is simple: unscrew the top nut and tighten the bottom nut, periodically checking the rack level and slightly rocking the bath. After that, holding the pin by the rubber knob, you need to tighten the upper nut, while the lower one will not turn in any way.

Remember also that it is not necessary to artificially create a slope to the drain hole, this is already built into the design.

Board fixation

The sides of the bathtub that touch the walls need additional fixing. This is done to compensate for lateral swings under the weight of a person and so that the bath does not move itself from linear expansion when heated.

A mark is applied to the wall under the adjoining side, a line must be drawn from it around the perimeter of the installation and a steel corner or a hardwood rail should be installed along it. The support contour can be fastened with quick mounting dowels of at least 8x80 mm in size every 50 cm. If a mistake was made when fixing the support rail, the legs may need to be adjusted again.

Before finally installing the bathtub, several L-shaped “legs” should be bent from a steel strip and tried on to the support rail so that, when pressed, the bent edge is 2-3 mm away from the tile or wall. These plates are installed every 50 cm, they are designed to tightly press the edge of the bath against the wall. If desired, they can be installed under the dowels for fastening the support rail, but in this case a wide washer should be placed under the cap.

When everything is ready to fix the sides, the bath is installed 20-30 cm from the wall, connected to the sewer and water supply. On the sides adjacent to the walls, you need to apply a sanitary sealant and, lifting the far edge, hook the side on the fasteners on the rail. Immediately after this, the bath is filled with water to the maximum and left for a day.

Bottom reinforcement

The value of the support legs is purely nominal, and the bath has a significant load on them. Fiberglass is a rather elastic material, it is subject to deflection and curvature, so the gap between the floor and the bottom of the bathtub should be filled with an incompressible material.

Directly on the floor you need to lay a few bricks and tie them in a small amount cement mortar. The masonry rises as close to the bottom as possible, the remaining gap is filled with mounting foam after the solution dries. The bath should be half full of water at the same time, so that the light bowl is not lifted by the expanded foam.

Additionally, the points of contact of the brick with the floor lining are foamed so that it does not move and the masonry does not expand. For low-set bathtubs and trays, the brick can also be replaced with expanded polystyrene, several layers of which are glued together with mounting foam.

Side panels and junction insulation

Most acrylic bathtubs have suitable decorative screens - if not supplied, then at an additional cost. For self-assembly, this method is optimal due to its simplicity, in addition, access to faulty plumbing can be obtained relatively harmlessly.

The screen installation process is very simple. First, clips are attached under the side of the bowl, usually an adhesive connection is preferred in these places. Then the upper guide profile is attached to the clips. If the bath screen is curved, fastening with clips is done every 15-20 cm.

With the help of a plumb line, the extreme line of the profile is transferred to the floor, where, after preliminary marking, the lower guides are installed and fixed with dowels. The shape of the profiles may differ depending on whether you have chosen a blind screen or with hinged doors. If you need to provide access, for example, to a siphon through a blank screen, nothing prevents you from cutting a rectangular opening in the flat part and fixing a light inspection door in it with liquid nails.