How to make an attic: do-it-yourself installation process. Making an attic: construction stages How to build an attic floor

Creating an attic - a popular type of room - with your own hands today is not difficult. Let's look at all the stages of construction, as well as the pros and cons of this design.

Peculiarities

Home is a place where we would like to surround ourselves with comfort, have the opportunity to relax with our families and work. Sometimes this becomes impossible due to lack of square meters. How to make housing spacious and comfortable? Construction technologies have stepped far ahead - resources have appeared that allow you to expand the occupied space with your own hands through extensions. But if there is not enough land, then the attic will be the most successful option!

Currently, this is a fashionable design for private houses. Back in the 17th century, the attic was conceived as a way to expand housing for the poor. And thanks to the French architect Mansard (fr. Mansard), the conversion of roofs into residential apartments has become very popular among the rich. From here, by the way, the name came - attic.

Many people ask the question: "Attic or additional floor?". It is worth clarifying right away that these are two different things. Before choosing one or another option, weigh all the pros and cons, the pros and cons, consider the purpose of your home (dacha or permanent place accommodation), your Family status as well as the budget. It will be much more economical to build an attic than a full-fledged second floor.

In this article, we will tell you how to significantly transform the usable area with minimal investment. And with the implementation of all the necessary activities, you can handle it on your own.

Installation and arrangement of the attic, the facade of which is completely or partially formed by the surface of a sloping roof, is a vast scope for imagination and creativity. So much space shouldn't be wasted! A great studio, office or storage space for unnecessary things will come out here. But isn't it too wasteful to turn precious square meters into a warehouse?

Usually attic space is provided to children who like to be placed on high levels, and besides, low beams for adults often cause some inconvenience. This floor is the last one, and the higher, the better the view, no doubt. The presence of pipes, the proximity to the roof, a remote balcony, a sloping ceiling - all this will become a stylish help for creating an architectural design.

An objective assessment of the specifics and knowledge of the constructive qualities of this type of superstructure give a chance that everything will work out as well as possible, the load-bearing walls and foundation of the house will not be harmed, and the dwelling will last a long time. Believe me, the attic is a very useful thing!

The most successful solution is a frame attic. Before you begin to develop a superstructure plan, you must make sure that the lower floor can withstand the additional load. After all, every person who encounters a building knows that the main building is placed on a supporting structure, which is calculated based on the entire mass of the building. Therefore, at the beginning of construction, it is necessary to make necessary calculations and also check the foundation for cracks or any damage. If necessary, the base will need to be strengthened. At this stage, it is best to turn to professionals.

Based on how the roof is arranged, appearance attic can be different. As a rule, the attic occupies the entire top floor, although sometimes there are options located on one side of the longitudinal axis of the building. It is not often possible to see attics that extend beyond the lower structures.

Most often, the roof is gable or broken. More complex view gable configuration is popular: the roof consists of two planes, as it were. But we will discuss each of them in more detail a little later. Windows, large or small, located on the ceiling let in many times more light than ordinary windows in the rooms on the lower floors.

When choosing roofing observe harmony so as not to disturb the combination of the shape of the attic floor and the roof.

You can also immediately insulate the room with SIP panels. As a result, you will get a lightweight construction, which consists of more than 50% of lightweight polystyrene foam, therefore, it does not create a load on walls and ceilings.

There are several design features that cannot be ignored.

take seriously the thermal insulation, which should be strengthened, because it is the roof that often “suffers” from frequent and sometimes strong temperature changes;
it is important to make waterproofing conscientiously, so that over time the insulation does not get wet;
between the thermal insulation layer and the roof, ventilation must be done properly.

Options roof structure must be due to the further construction of thermal insulation, which is placed between the timber rafters and has a thickness of at least 20 cm. The rafters must be at least 25 by 25 cm.

The main indicators of wood that are important for the design of the system are flexural and compressive strength, the desired density and moisture content.

Wooden rafters, in turn, require treatment with antiseptics or fire and bioprotective structures and must have fire resistance limits.

Designers are advised to leave the attic space intact. Nevertheless, if it becomes necessary to separate rooms, then it is better to build partitions using drywall.

Consider also the disadvantages of this type of adjustment:

due to the sloping roof, unlike the usual floor, the size of the attic area will be smaller;
the height must be optimal, otherwise there will be problems with closing / opening the doors;
psychological factor: sometimes it seems to people that there is not enough air, every time you want to bend down, a person may feel discomfort;
regardless of the type of roofing and even the correct installation of sound insulation, sounds from rain will penetrate into the room;
it is important to think over the heating system correctly;
the stairs leading to the attic may be too steep and therefore unsafe.

Design options and materials

Using the advice of experts, carefully develop a future attic project. After that, prepare the design of the attic, as this is not just a certain number of square meters, but the individuality of the facade - the pride of the building. The appearance and interior depends on the methods of coating and materials for the roof.

There are several types of roofing.

Shed

The simplest option, which is a sloping area fixed on load-bearing walls. Advantages: ease of calculation and installation work, due to its low weight, it is suitable for buildings on foundations of a simplified type. Disadvantages: not the most attractive appearance, sensitivity to loads (snow).

gable

One of the most common options. Such a structure consists of two opposite slopes, which lie on the walls of the building that serve as a support and are connected at the top with a ridge. Material investments in gable roof small enough, while it looks aesthetically attractive. The gable roof device includes: rafters, lathing, inclined planes, mauerlat, horizontal ribs, ridge, valleys, overhangs.

broken line

The broken roof structure is a subspecies of the gable roof, but with a more complex configuration. Because of the shape and the presence of broken lines, this name came about. Such a roof gives the house solidity and solidity.

Four-sided or hip

One of the strongest and most resistant strong wind and leaks during precipitation of roofing systems, where two triangular slopes are installed instead of gables. Complex installation is a minus of this design: it requires accuracy in calculating the truss system and installing the frame. For this reason, designing is usually trusted to professionals.

Multi-forceps

Among all the designs, the most complex, but at the same time the most interesting is considered to be multi-forceps. It is characterized by the presence of several gables (from 3 or more). A big plus is the ability to cover several rooms with one level. But in general, this type of attic works mainly on architectural style and design.

The attic part is divided into two types. She may be:

single-level- enough practical option in execution, which does not require complex development and serious calculations;
two-level- This is a building that is difficult to erect, the project of which is created immediately together with the house.

Current building technologies make it possible to make different types of balconies in the attic. To select the desired design, you should consider the design features of the lower floor. And it doesn't matter if the balcony was already included in the plan, it can be done at the end of all stages of construction.

Most good option location - from the end. In this case, the balcony will resemble a loggia. It is erected together with the attic, which allows you to use part of the roof as a canopy, and the ceiling of the floor as a floor.

Another type of construction is the option when the balcony is located in the roof part. At the stage of roofing, part of the building is left uncovered so that a balcony can be equipped there.

Drawings and calculation

The main parameter when planning the attic floor is the ceiling level, the optimal height of which should be at least 2.5 m. Make a drawing before direct construction, evaluate everything and indicate accurate calculations so that everything can be built accurately. The most ideal option is a broken line of two pitched roof, but then as many bearing supports as possible should be installed for sufficient reliability, since this type of roof increases the pressure on the walls.

Do not forget to include the ventilation system in the calculations, as well as windows and furnace heating pipes, if any.

The height of the superstructure itself has no limit, but the lower ends must be at least 90 cm.

The plan should contain all the information about the shape features, geometric dimensions and slope angles of the slopes.

After the exact calculation of the mansard roof truss system is completed, all the necessary materials should be purchased and the roof should be prepared. Only after that, you can start building.

Do-it-yourself attic manufacturing steps

It is very important to choose the design and style of the interior at the initial stage, as well as decide on the materials for decoration. You should listen to the opinion of professional designers who advise using only high-quality raw materials. We will guide you step by step through all stages of construction.

Roof

So, the first stage is the development of a project for a new future roof in an old room. It does not matter whether it is single-pitched, double-pitched or broken, without a doubt, the appearance of the result will directly depend on the structural properties of the roof, as well as the raw materials used. Make a diagram in different perspectives to better understand how to place the elements of the truss system. The most important thing is to accurately calculate the height of the roof ridge, because the size of the area under it depends on it.

We take the height of the ridge about 3.5 m - with the independent construction of the frame, which allows you to straighten up to your full height.

It is important to remember that in order to build a frame with your own hands, you must be aware of the existence of two types of truss systems: inclined and hanging. They differ from each other by the method of attaching nodes to the walls.

In houses where there is no load-bearing wall, the mechanism of hanging rafters will be used, which will be held only on the walls of the house and connected to each other with nails or screws using corner plates. In this case, the width of a single-span building, where this particular type of rafters is assumed, cannot exceed 6 m. If the parameters of the house are larger, for example, when the span width exceeds 9 m, then you have to do large quantity struts.

In two-span houses, where there is only an average supporting wall, layered rafters are made. In this case, the three base points (two on the outer walls of the house and one on the inside) depend on the width of the building: more than 10 m - one support, and with a width of about 15 m, two supports will be needed. The rafters are attached to each other with the help of corner plates. The crate itself is made of slats or boards.

Steam and thermal insulation are key steps in creating an attic. A membrane-type film is laid on top of the crate, which will protect against moisture penetration, and with inside glass wool for insulation.

The next stage is the installation of the roof, interior processing and design of walls and partitions, as well as the installation of windows.

As we have already mentioned above, the most successful will be the use of metal tiles or corrugated board as a material for roofing.

floors

First, take care of sound and thermal insulation from the floor below. This task can be accomplished in several ways: backfilling of expanded clay or laying mineral wool slabs. Both methods involve protection from moisture with hydrofilms. Also pay attention to the wooden floors. Here, the insulation is performed with dressing of the seams of the insulation and beams.

Choose the flooring of your choice. It can be ceramic, parquet or laminate.

Window

Windows for the attic - quite laborious, although worth it process, so consider if you can do it alone. In fact, they do not differ much from facade ones, but there is one serious difference - a special type of opening. In addition, during installation, you will have to disassemble the metal tile, while trying to maintain waterproofing. But this is not scary, because it is thanks to the windows that the room becomes much lighter and more spacious!

It is very important to know that if snow and ice are not cleared regularly, the window may be subject to temperature changes, so it is important to select models in accordance with the climate in which you live.

Heating selection

For a comfortable stay and use of the premises, you also need to take care of heating the attic. It should not only maintain and retain heat inside, but also be safe and economical.

All details must be taken into account early stages design. We bring to your attention several methods of heating the attic floor.

Fireplace. Efficient, comfortable and completely safe way.
If your house already has a heating system on the ground floor, then you only need to install additional pipes and batteries.

Installation of an independent heating system only for the attic - the most correct solution. It is possible to install absolutely any heating boilers, while observing necessary measures security. But more comfortable - turbocharged gas boilers, not requiring a separate room. They are wall mounted and very easy to use.
"Warm floor". To create a comfortable microclimate in the room, you can install underfloor heating. This can be done both with your own hands and with the help of specialists. In any case, this is a fairly economical option.

Important point- Proper arrangement of ventilation. Only in this way will attic heating work well.

Warming and ventilation

Since the attic has the largest area of contact with the street, compared to the lower floors, its insulation should be taken very carefully. Today the market offers a variety of insulating materials. However, when solving this problem regarding full-fledged thermal insulation and vapor barrier for the house, do not forget about the main conditions, and then this will not only reduce heat loss and heating costs at home, but also protect the ceiling and walls from dampness, rot and sputum, the formation of ice on the roof . The choice of materials for the "roofing pie" must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP.

When you choose a finish in a store, focus primarily on the characteristics of your home. For example, where it is hot in summer and frosty in winter, the insulation must be resistant to external circumstances. Therefore, one of the main conditions will be thickness. The colder, the denser it should be, and, conversely, if you live in the south, where the temperature practically does not drop below zero in winter, you can choose a thinner material.

The most versatile and most budgetary - based on mineral wool, polystyrene foam is used less often. Sometimes it is possible to use a heat-insulating layer consisting of modern filling agents or materials in the form of a liquid sprayed onto the walls and solidifying into a solid form. In all these cases, the roof will come out no less stable.

With the correct assembly of the "roofing pie", the design of which consists of metal tiles or corrugated board, battens, waterproofing membrane, truss system, properly equipped under-roof space ventilation is sure to extend the life of your roof. Never play the lottery "will carry it - will not carry it", but "wind it on your mustache" the advice of experts.

To create a beautiful and cozy living space, you can use wood as a finishing material from the inside, different kinds composite panels, HPL panels (or in Russian LVD - high pressure laminate). No less popular is the attic, decorated with your own hands using drywall sheets (gypsum plasterboard).

Roofing should be made of lightweight materials: corrugated board, metal tiles and similar materials that can lighten the weight of the mechanism, taking into account the load that will be transferred to an existing building.

To begin with - before altering the attic - you need to make drawings and draw up an estimate. This way you will see in advance what difficulties you will face.

It is not easy to develop a plan for a mansard roof alone: certain knowledge and skills in designing and carrying out specific calculations are important here. You can’t make mistakes: then the structure of the building will be unreliable, and besides, it can damage the overall building. Although if the idea is not too complicated, then you can do it yourself.

Everything must be included in the estimate: from the beginning of construction to the design of the premises.

Partitions

One of the easiest tasks that you can definitely do with your own hands is the device interior partitions. Usually, drywall and metal profiles are used for these purposes. Everything is done quickly and at minimal cost.

The design is simple: a frame, and gypsum boards are attached to it. At the end, the lining of the partition is made. To do this, you can use lining, block house, imitation timber or even plywood with wallpaper - a matter of taste.

Finishing work

After warming the attic, you should think about finishing. Of course, it all depends on how you will use this room. The peculiar geometry provides excellent prospects for creative design solutions. Immediately, we note that the finishing process is a complex of tasks, each of which has its own function. Let's take a closer look at finishing materials.

The most popular material plastic lining . Advantages: uniqueness, budget, environmental friendliness. The installation of the board can be different: diagonally or in a circle, horizontal or vertical. Of the minuses, it is worth noting fragility and, perhaps, weak resistance to negative factors.

Not the most expensive material plywood sheet. Covering the walls with them is quite easy. It also has excellent sound and heat insulating properties; no pre-leveling of the surface is required before installation.
Finishing the attic with drywall will allow to embody the most original design solutions: it can be used to create dropped ceilings, arches and even columns. At the same time, this material easily absorbs moisture, which is its negative side. But if you choose a special type that is resistant to moisture, then this finish will last you a very long time.

So, let's sum up and summarize the above.

To design a beautiful and high-quality attic you will need:

careful design of the future extension;
strengthening load-bearing walls and foundation;
roof removal;
erection of the frame (it will be easy enough for you to assemble it with your own hands);
roof insulation, waterproofing;
window installation;
interior decoration and insulation.

With excessive savings, as practice shows, the house can eventually turn out to be of poor quality and unattractive. Therefore, choose materials wisely, take into account the recommendations of experts, consult relatives and friends, as well as those who already have similar experience.

Its arrangement is the easiest and fast way increase the usable area. Rooms in the attic acquire a certain romantic areola and become a favorite pastime of the household. The main advantage of these premises is the large number of fresh air and light. But you need to approach it with all responsibility, otherwise you risk becoming a hostage to weather conditions.

The shape of the mansard roof can be any, but most often it is gable. And if it is also broken, then with its help the space is used most rationally. A huge plus of the attic floor is that its construction is much more economical than the construction of a full-fledged floor with main walls.

The power structure of the roof, where there will be an attic or one under which there will be no living quarters, does not differ. The strength and stability of the roof depends entirely on its truss system.

rafters- This is the main load-bearing structure of the roof. They must withstand both the weight of the roof and the load in the form of rain and wind. The truss system is calculated based on the selected roofing material, as well as depending on the climatic conditions of the area.

For the construction of a power truss system, ferrous metal is used according to GOST, galvanized thin-walled cold-formed profile or wood, as well as combinations of ferrous metal and galvanized profile, metal and wood. In hard-to-reach places for installation, it is better to use a thin-walled profile.

The choice of material directly depends on the length of the spans to be covered. For long distances, ferrous metal or trusses are suitable.

It is very important to use only lightweight materials and structures for the construction of an additional floor. The advantages of a thin-walled profile are that it does not require welding and can be assembled in place on bolted joints or rivets.

Wood, as a material, is also well suited, but requires additional treatment with an antiseptic.

Rafters, frames or trusses are erected from load-bearing structures. They are mounted on the Mauerlat, and then runs are made on them. If the step is large, this also becomes part of the power structures.

Mauerlat- this is part of the roofing system in the form of a beam laid on the perimeter of the wall and accounts for the lower rafter support.

An important task is how to make the attic warm, that is, to organize a warming cake. The difference between a dwelling and just a roof is the need for its thermal insulation. As an additional load, all insulation is not significant and does not affect the load-bearing structure of the roof.

The main principle in design is that the load-bearing structure must be placed either in warm contour, or in the cold, but not be in the middle. Preferably a warm placement, then the whole insulation pie comes out.

The most common mistakes:

lumber is not treated with antiseptic and fireproof impregnations and this shortens the life of your roof
rafter legs are fused with cuts without the use of heat-insulating gaskets, which leads to freezing and cold bridges
sections of rafters and their installation takes place “by eye” without taking into account loads
rafter legs are not attached to the Mauerlat or are attached with nails, which is the same thing with a strong gust of wind
the waterproofing film is laid face down inside the room, and not outside, as it should be
insufficiently reliable fastening of the joints of the rafters with girders, sometimes it's just a couple of nails.

As a result of non-compliance with building technologies, many get a disastrous result, even if not immediately. To avoid this, consider in detail how to do it.

An example of how to calculate the attic

Before starting the construction of the attic with your own hands, you will need to make a drawing. If you do not own, for example, the AutoCad program, you can do it by hand. It is important that you clearly see the projection of your attic from the front, side and top view.

To begin, mark the load-bearing walls of your house in the front view (looking at the gable of the building).

So, let's say there is a house with the following initial parameters:

Three load-bearing walls made of aerated concrete with a thickness of 300mm.
The distance between the walls is 4m.
The floor beams of the first floor are laid with the release of a cornice of 50 cm.
Because the maximum length wooden beam- 6m, then this value is taken as the basis for the width of the attic ceiling. Based on this, we get a drawing of a gable sloping roof.
Height from ceiling to beam - 2660mm.
The length of the side and top rafters (roof breaks) is 3300mm each. When these values are the same, then, in addition to the fact that it looks harmonious, it will be easier to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe roofing.
The angle of inclination of the side rafter is 60°, the top rafter is 25°.
The thickness of the floor beam is 250mm, the rafter beams are 200mm.
Vertical racks of 150 mm were installed, on which a strapping beam was laid, and an attic floor beam, side and upper rafters were attached to it.
The total height of the roof is 4260mm, and the height of the living space is 2250mm. According to the norms, this is the permissible ceiling height for rooms for temporary stay, that is, bedrooms, children's rooms.

In fact, the attic is a frame consisting of several racks, beams and rafters.

If the length of the transverse ceiling exceeds 6 m, and, accordingly, one beam is not enough, then the upper part of the attic can be made in the form of a truss with a rack, truss and an additional rack. Sprengels can also be installed in the side part, which burst the rafters. In this case, these details are not necessary.

When calculating, you must have at hand a set of rules and tables on the technical standards of construction, which is called "Loads and Impacts". It contains not only general provisions, but also formulas with coefficients, for example, of melting, snow drift and uneven distribution of snow over the roof area.

When calculating how to build an attic, it must be remembered that 4 types of loads act on it at once:

own weight (it is relatively easy to calculate, knowing what kind of insulation cake will be in the ceiling and rafters)
pressure on ceilings of people inside, furniture, etc.
snow load on a slope less than 30 ° is 1.52 kPa; if the slope is steeper than 60 °, then such a load does not fall on it
wind, which acts evenly on all rafters from the windy side, and suction occurs on the leeward side at this time, “tearing off” both the upper and side rafters.

Also, the tearing force of the rafters is especially effective when the wind blows into the pediment of the building. These loads are calculated by formulas using the appropriate aerodynamic coefficient.

We build an attic with our own hands

Installation sequence:

First of all, floor beams with a section of 70 (50) x 250 mm are laid in increments of 1 m (this is calculated individually for each wall length, the main thing is that the pitch is the same). In this case, this is also explained by the fact that a ladder will go into one of the gaps, and it should not be already 90 cm. If you take a step smaller, the floor beam would have to be cut and strengthened, and these are additional worries.
On the sides to the beams, bars are stuffed, on which it is laid sheet material or boards.
After mounting the beams, racks are attached to them in 2 rows, which are leveled using a level with a plumb line, and then temporary jibs are made to them, perpendicular to each other and nailed, along and across from the roof axis. This additionally secures the beams and prevents them from deviating to the side. For the jib, you can use any board.
A rope is stretched between the two extreme racks and the rest of the racks are leveled along it. Their step is always equal to the step of the floor beams. All racks are fixed similarly to the extreme ones. The result should be two parallel rows of racks, on which the strapping bars are then placed.
Runs are laid and fixed on racks with 150 mm nails and corners on self-tapping screws.

Crossbars from a bar 50 x 200mm are placed on top of the edge, which increases their rigidity. Since subsequently they are not subjected to a significant load, this section, as a rule, is sufficient. But in order to insure them at the time of installation, supports from a bar no thinner than 25mm are placed under them. At this stage, the rigidity of the attic is provided only in the transverse direction; longitudinally the structure is unstable. From above, until the rafters are installed, one or two boards can also be temporarily strengthened on the crossbar.
The lower rafters are installed with a section of 50 x 150mm. First, a template is made from a 25 x 150mm board (it is easier to process). The length is measured, applied to the upper beam and the shape of the joint is drawn directly on the board, which is then sawn out. Next, the template is tried on at all other places for mounting the rafters, and if it matches them, all legs are cut out according to the template. However, the lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat, is cut out in place. The rafters are fastened with corners with self-tapping screws and nails. You can mount beams with rafters in parallel, that is, when all elements are attached at once in one span, or you can sequentially, when all floor beams are installed first, and then all side rafters.
The so-called wind connections are being established. These are wooden braces that burst the top point at the level where the attic beams are installed.
Upper rafter line. At the level of the ridge, for convenience, sometimes an overlay is made and a tightening in the middle in order to put together the rafters on the ground, and then raise and unfasten them in place. The center of the roof is marked with a temporary stand, which is nailed to the Mauerlat and extremely tightened from the end so that this board goes up the center of the roof. This will be the guideline for the rafters. Further, as in the case of the lower ones, a template is made, applying it with one end to the edge of the installed board, and with the other end to the run on which the upper rafters will rest. They cut it out, try it on to all points on both sides of the roof. If the posts were fixed in parallel, there should be no problems with the upper rafters.
According to the template, the required number of rafter legs is made. They are placed on longitudinal beams on cuts, fastened with the help of corners and connected in the upper part with scraps of boards on self-tapping screws or metal plates. Often they are reinforced with cuts to the transverse beams: hanging racks 25 x 150mm are fixed between the junction of two rafters and the attic puff.
Next, the attic ceiling is installed in the same way as the floor, when boards are laid on the sides on the nailed bars.

Installation of a frame for sewing up a pediment, it is called half-timbered. The window opening is also indicated here. A board 50 x 150 mm in increments of about 600-700 mm can act as its racks. Important: the edge of the rack should go across the gable, creating additional rigidity.
Now you can start sewing the gable with boards. It is worth doing this before laying the sheathing, so that later, if some boards go beyond the rafters, it would be easier to cut them down. If you do the opposite, you will have to adjust the corner of each board to fit the existing crate. Up to the attic floor beam, the pediment is sewn up with boards horizontally. The remaining piece of the pediment is sewn up vertically.
Upper connections are made. Since the gable frame beams were attached to a fairly flexible floor beam, it is necessary to make a kind of stiffening truss by using the next floor beam.
A brace is installed, which bursts the upper part of the rafters. With its base it is attached to the third floor beam from the edge, and with its end rests against the very extreme point skate. This element is used more often with soft roofing, when the rigidity of the ridge is not enough.

If the house is completely framed, then it is necessary to establish such connections in the floor of the first floor. If the house is reinforced concrete, then a stiffening belt already passes in the upper part of the ceiling and does not need connections.
In some cases, it is also necessary to provide for stiffness ties in the rafters. If corrugated board or metal tiles are used as roofing, then the rafters do not have to be strengthened: the sheet material will serve as a stiffness diaphragm if it is properly installed.

The fastening of elements to each other can be very diverse, for example, staples with nails, wooden or metal linings, MZP (metal gear plates, whose teeth are driven in with a sledgehammer). It is important to remember that the length of the nails should be at least twice the thickness of the board you are nailing.

Lathing fastening

Depending on the chosen roofing, at the final stage of the construction of the attic, a crate is laid.

The crate is a structure made of beams that are laid perpendicular to the rafter legs, attached to them. The function of the batten is to bear the weight of the roofing, holding it securely in place.

Sheathing for sheeting is a continuous crate and is made of edged boards of 25mm. Width should be no more than 140mm, as wide boards have a tendency to deform. If there is more than 1 m between the rafters, then it may be necessary to speed up the course of the rafters with special bars, and then lay out the boards. Next, roofing material or glassine is placed, and roofing material is spread on top. It should be noted that such a crate makes the roof extremely reliable and is suitable for absolutely all types of coatings, while reducing rain noise.

Sheathing for metal roofing make it rarefied and, if possible, adjust the tiles to the course of the wave. Mounted from edged boards 25(30) x 100mm in increments of 80-100cm. The peculiarity lies in the fact that before installation on the rafters, a hydro-windproof membrane is strengthened. The first board from the eaves should be installed higher than the others by the height of the wave of the tiles. If short boards are used, their joints are best staggered.

Sheathing for ceramic tiles and other piece elements is considered the most difficult. Work also begins with the installation of a hydro-barrier, and then a sparse crate is made of 50 x 50 mm bars. The difficulty is to maintain the exact rhythm between the elements, since one step is equal to the covering surface of one tile.

There are always several approaches to the process of any construction. Here we have described how to make an attic with our own hands on an already erected house, however, there are cases when the attic is assembled in position on the ground and put in place with a crane, and then strengthened in the right places.

Modern people try to use the area of their home as efficiently as possible. Therefore, the proposal to equip additional space under the roof is always met with enthusiasm. It is much easier to plan the construction of an attic at the stage of building a house, but you can make an additional superstructure above the old building.

How to make an attic on an old house

The presence of an attic not only increases the living space, but also gives the building a colorful look.

Attic turns Vacation home in a fabulous building

An old house can be updated by building a superstructure in accordance with existing standards.

The attic superstructure begins with calculations of the strength of the old house

First you need to decide whether the existing foundation and walls can withstand the load of the attic floor and the new roof. If they have a sufficient margin of safety, then you can start remodeling the house. Otherwise, they should be strengthened.

old brick walls sometimes they seem strong, but with additional load, cracks may appear in the solution over time. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately consider their condition, and, if necessary, tie them with a rigid belt. This is done as follows:

metal poles with a section of 10x10 cm are inserted into the foundation with the lower edge, and connected with the armored belt of the first floor with the upper edge. Installed around the perimeter of the house every 2 meters;
metal fittings with a cross section of 12 mm are placed in strakes and tie the house along the walls: from the bottom of the window every 2 meters up;
a metal mesh with a cell size of 2x2 cm is laid on top of the reinforcement, which, after completion of all work, is covered with plaster.

Strengthening the foundation is carried out by tying with a reinforcing belt from all sides.

If the old foundation cannot withstand the attic, then it must be sheathed with reinforcement

Having decided on the strengthening of the building, you can proceed to the choice of the project of the future superstructure. It should look harmonious against the background of other buildings and match the style of the whole house.

The type of mansard roof will determine the calculation of the dimensions of the inner upper room and necessary materials for construction

There are several types of attics:

single-level with gable roof- low ceilings with little living space;
A single-level attic with a gable roof is the simplest type of superstructure for small buildings
single-level with a sloping gable roof - increased interior space, but serious costs and time for construction;
A single-level attic with a broken gable roof is usually built on a brick house
single-level with cantilever extensions - a complex structure that allows you to get even more area, since the attic frame extends beyond the building, and the windows are installed vertically;
A single-level attic with cantilever extensions allows you to get a lot of internal space by increasing the upper structure
multi-level with mixed roof support - used in the construction of a new house, built only by specialists.
A multi-level attic with a mixed roof support on old houses is usually not installed due to the complexity and large amount of work.

Video: converting half of the old roof into an attic - an easy way

Alteration of the roof under the attic is a relatively cheap way to increase living space. In a private house, a pitched roof is usually placed, so you can make an additional spacious and bright room with your own hands.

Internal wood paneling makes the attic warm and bright

And if the house is large enough in length, then the attic can turn into a real floor: with several rooms and even a balcony.

A large attic allows you to divide the area into different residential areas

Advantages of creating an attic:

the possibility of arranging one or more new living rooms;
An attic with low ceilings under a gable roof is most conveniently furnished with low sunbeds
low costs compared to the construction of a full-fledged floor or a side extension to the house;
renovation of the exterior of the building;
A house with an attic under construction always attracts the eyes of passers-by and is interested in the final result.
opportunity to observe beautiful view from the attic window.
A lot passes through the windows in the attic sunlight illuminating the room all day long

However, this solution also has certain disadvantages that must also be taken into account:

the need for insulation and soundproofing of the ceiling and a new roof, the installation of several double-glazed windows;
the difficulty of conducting additional heating and lighting in the upper part of the old house - you will have to combine it with home wiring or use an autonomous connection;
To heat the attic with access to the balcony, you can use a potbelly stove
layout of a part of the home space under the stairs leading to the attic;
The stairs leading to the attic must be fenced for safety.
the need to purchase special furniture for a sloping roof or purchase squat models: low cabinets, sofas and tables.
Low furniture is best suited for attic interiors

The presence of sloping walls makes the room unusual and romantic, but with this decision you will have to take a more responsible approach to design development. You can make furniture for an inclined superstructure yourself or assemble a single complex from existing multi-level models, painting everything in one color.

Furniture that repeats the slope of the attic can be made independently

So, the main disadvantage of converting an attic into an attic is the need to invest, but it's worth it.

Building an attic will cost much less than creating an additional floor, regardless of what materials will be used to build the walls. Indeed, to create them, you will need the main material, insulation and decoration, while for the attic superstructure you only need roof insulation and a new truss system.

The superstructure is made in a symmetrical or asymmetrical shape. Internal walls are designed both inclined and vertical.

Having studied the schemes of single-level attics with different types roofs, it is easier to make a choice when planning

Alteration of the attic into an attic does not require the dismantling of all existing structures. But you need to make sure that the ceiling is reliable: check its condition, reinforce it with wooden or metal beams, sheathe it with a new board. Then it will be able to withstand the weight of furniture and people.

For frequent climbing to the attic, you will need to make a comfortable staircase, provide for the installation of ventilation, natural and artificial lighting, and perform interior decoration - all this will create a cozy and comfortable room.

A superstructure with a sloping roof, decorated in light colors, visually increases the space, and color spots add brightness to the interior

When building an attic floor, the following conditions must be met:

rafters are made of glued timber with a thickness of at least 250 mm so that the required amount of insulation can be laid;
foamed polystyrene is used for insulation due to its low weight and high thermal insulation characteristics;
a gap is left between the thermal insulation and the roofing material to provide natural ventilation;
a hydro- and sound-proof layer must be laid.

Alteration of the roof under the attic do it yourself

During the construction of a house, there is usually not enough money, so many refuse to build a second floor. Or another situation may arise when an old one-story house of a small area is purchased along with the site. In both cases, there is an affordable option for increasing the place to live - do-it-yourself restructuring of the attic space into an attic.

Create a project

Before starting work, you need to draw up a plan and develop a project with accurate drawings. The correct calculation will allow you to get a cozy, durable and reliable room. You can perform all the calculations yourself or entrust it to specialists.

You can draw a plan and develop a draft design yourself by studying different variants in the Internet

Reinforcement of walls and foundations may be necessary in case of complete replacement rafters. If the roof is partially redone, then reinforcement may be needed only for overlapping. You also need to immediately decide what types of windows will be used in the attic: the reinforcement in the truss system will depend on this.

The location of all windows in the attic roof must be thought out in advance and this data entered into the project plan

truss system

Rafters can be layered or hanging. The former rest on the inner walls of the house or additional supports, and the latter on the outer walls.

In the attic, layered and hanging rafters are used.

Hanging rafters are best suited for the attic.

Attic with hanging rafters looks prettier and wins in the size of the internal area

The attic usually occupies the entire space of the attic, and its walls are combined with the outer ones.

The best option for creating an attic is a layered truss system.

The rafter system consists of different load-bearing bars. To understand the structure of the entire structure and build it correctly, you need to understand the purpose and operation of its individual elements.

The image of the individual elements of the truss system helps to understand the structure of the entire structure

Refurbishment of the premises

With a sufficient height of the attic, the truss system does not need to be redone. It is enough to inspect the old rafters, identify possible flaws and eliminate them.

If the truss system is in good condition, you can proceed to the arrangement of the floor. Insulation is first laid between the lags, after which the surface is sheathed with ordinary boards or sheets of OSB, chipboard.

The floor in the attic is insulated and covered with boards

Before laying the insulation, all necessary communications are mounted between the rafters, places are cut in the roof for installing windows. carried out before warming.

All wires and pipes of communications must be placed in special corrugations

Care must be taken to create natural ventilation of the under-roof space through the vents so that moisture does not accumulate inside the room.

Roof insulation

It is necessary to insulate the roof correctly and efficiently - the microclimate under the roof will depend on this. Usually used as a heater mineral wool, polystyrene or sprayed polyurethane foam.

A thick layer of heat insulator is tightly laid and fixed between the rafters so that there are no gaps or gaps anywhere. On the upper part of the roof - between the roof and the insulation - waterproofing is mounted, then it is laid thermal insulation material from the side of the room. Then from the inside the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film.

For better ventilation, a small distance is left between the roofing material and the insulation: this is how air circulates through the holes in the eaves and ridge. If the roof is covered wavy sheets, then the thickness of the gap should be 25 mm, but if it is a flat material, then it is necessary to bring it to 50 mm.

When creating attic thermal insulation, it is necessary to strictly observe the sequence of layers

When planning an ascent to the attic, you need to take care of the convenience and safety of movement. Therefore, the ladder is usually mounted inside the house. It is constructed from wood or metal: it can be either a screw or a marching structure.

The stairs to the attic can be different kind and design, which allows it to fit into any interior

An opening is cut in the ceiling of the first floor, which is reinforced along the perimeter with metal or wooden strapping.

The design of the stairs to the attic must be durable, reliable, safe and beautiful.

Interior decoration

For wall cladding, in most cases, gypsum boards are used, the seams between them are plastered. Wallpaper is glued on top or decorative plaster is applied. An alternative option is lining or natural wood.

If some rafters protrude through the walls into the attic, then they can be designed as decorative elements and even use it as a horizontal bar for hanging a hammock, swing, chandelier and other fixtures.

The design of the visible parts of the rafters in the interior of the attic is an interesting and creative business.

It is not recommended to use heavy finishing materials in the attic, as they increase the load on the walls, ceiling and foundation of the building.

There are many options interior decoration attic, but it is advisable to use only light materials

To cover the floor, you can use a laminate or linoleum, and it is better to refuse tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Roof of the attic floor

The roof of a residential superstructure should consist of the following layers (in order - from the street to the interior):

Video: why and how to properly lay layers on the roof of the attic

Mansard roof calculations for a house

Determination of the total weight of the roof

To calculate the total weight roofing materials, necessary specific gravity multiply one square meter of coverage by the total area of the mansard roof. To obtain the weight of one square meter, you must add the specific gravity of all the materials that make up roofing cake, and multiply it by the safety factor (1.1).

If the thickness of the crate is 25 mm, then its specific gravity is 15 kg / m 2, a 10 cm thick insulation has a specific gravity of 10 kg / m 2, and ondulin roofing material has a weight of 3 kg / m 2. It turns out: (15 + 10 + 3) x1.1 \u003d 30.8 kg / m 2.

According to existing standards, the load on the ceiling in a residential building should not exceed 50 kg / m 2.

Roof area determination

To calculate the surface of a sloping roof, you need to break it into simple figures(square, rectangle, trapezium, etc.) and determine their area, and then add everything up. To determine the surface of a gable roof, it is necessary to multiply the length by the width, multiply the resulting value by two.

Table: determination of the attic roof area

When calculating the angle of inclination, the climatic zone in which the house is located is taken into account, and that it is convenient to move in the attic in full growth

It is also necessary to calculate the slope of the roof. Usually the angle is 45–60 degrees, but when determining it, one must take into account the climatic zone in which the house is located, the type of attic construction, snow, wind loads, architectural decoration of the house.

The greater the angle of inclination of the roof, the less will be the load on the truss system, but the consumption of materials will increase.

Calculation of the truss system

When choosing a truss system, you can stop at the following options:

hanging rafters;
oblique type;
skating run;
combined design.

If the length of the roof is more than 4.5 m, then support runs and struts can be used for reinforcement. With a length of more than 7 meters, a ridge beam is installed.

For wooden rafters, a bar with a thickness of at least 70 mm is used. The step of their installation should be 50 cm.

On a large area, it is better to fix a metal truss system: due to the increase in the distance between the rafters, the absence of spacers and struts, the weight of such a structure will be less than that of a wooden one, and the strength will increase significantly.

If the attic area is large, then it is better to install metal rafters

Calculation of the required amount of materials

To carry out the calculation, you need to know the following parameters:

width, thickness and pitch of the rafters;
distance from the edge of the roof to the rafters;
the size of the boards for the crate and the step between them;
size, type of roofing material and overlap between its sheets;
type of steam, hydro and thermal insulation material.

The roof is divided into simple shapes and the required amount of each of the materials is determined. For this, simple mathematical formulas are used.

The results obtained are converted into standard values: for a tree - into Cubic Meters, for roofing materials, steam, hydro and thermal insulation - in square meters. And you can go to the store.

Common Mistakes

Most often, with self-calculation, errors are obtained during the determination of the required amount of insulation. If the climatic conditions are severe, then its volume will have to be increased, otherwise it will not be possible to create comfortable living conditions in the attic. The insulation is laid on the floor of the house, the walls of the gable and the slopes of the roof. But everywhere the thickness of the insulation can be different.

Video: calculation of a mansard roof with diagrams and loads

The attic floor allows you to get additional living space and gives the private house a modern attractive appearance. It is not difficult to create an attic with your own hands, you just need to draw up a project correctly, perform calculations and carry out high-quality installation of all materials. And the result will please the owners for a long time.

Attic called the roof, under which the living rooms are equipped. The shape of the mansard roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. The most rational solution that allows you to get the maximum usable area of \u200b\u200ba residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular one, as well as the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
Racks - vertical supports supporting the truss system;
Runs - horizontal supports for rafters;
Rigel - transverse horizontal elements that pull the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
Suspension - a suspension rack that supports puffs and redistributes the load between the rafters;
Sheathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing over them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
Filly - boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross section of the roof elements is determined by calculation, the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

The device of a broken mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have a different shape of opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume is significantly increased attic room. The lower part of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as a frame. internal walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks resting on floor beams, purlins and puffs connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits the internal dimensions of the attic. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, to strengthen the truss and eliminate the sagging of the crossbars, hanging supports - grandmas are installed. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with racks using contractions. The elements are fastened with nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the mansard roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic device is the height of the ceilings - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the mansard roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the inner lining of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finishing floors.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and the construction of the roof, it is necessary to draw a detailed drawing, which will indicate dimensions houses, the line of slopes and the height of the attic.

Drawing - mansard roof dimensions

The technology of erecting a broken mansard roof

Install the Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. In wooden buildings, the upper beam or log serves as the Mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - structures, the Mauerlat beam is attached to studs or anchors fixed in the walls during masonry at a distance of no more than 2 meters. The Mauerlat is leveled along the inner plane of the wall, the wall remaining outside is later laid with decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber from dry softwood usually has a section of 100 or 150 mm. Saw off a bar desired length, straighten the anchor studs if necessary and lay the timber on top of them. Lightly tapping with a hammer. Dents from the studs remain on the beam, a hole of the required diameter is drilled through them. You can also mark the beam with a tape measure, but the probability of error in this case is higher. Laid on the wall roll waterproofing, you can use the usual roofing material in two layers. Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.
For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. Floor beams are placed either on top of the Mauerlat with an exit beyond the plane of the walls by 0.3-0.5 meters, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the extreme ones in level, then, pulling the cord, they align the intermediate ones along them. The step of the floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient step is 60 cm, which allows you to lay the insulation boards without trimming. To equalize the height of the beams, they are hemmed or board linings are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be treated with coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material. Align them in the same way.
Racks are installed on the extreme floor beams. The end posts are made of timber 100x150 mm, the height and installation line of the posts is determined according to a previously prepared drawing. Racks are leveled using a level and a plumb line and temporarily fixed with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviations in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A cord is pulled between the extreme drains and the rest of the racks are set along it with a step equal to the step of the floor beams, that is, for each beam. All racks are fixed in the same way as the extreme ones. You should end up with two rows of uprights of the same height, running parallel to each other.
Runs from a board 50x150 mm are laid and fixed on racks, runs are fixed on nails 150 mm and on corners using self-tapping screws. Crossbars from a 50x200 mm board are placed on the runs with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbar during operation, this section of the board is quite enough, however, in order to exclude their deflection and increase reliability during installation, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports from the board are placed under them no thinner than 25 mm. On top of the crossbar, they are fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, before the installation of the rafters. At the same time, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the puff - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, girders and crossbars, you get a rigid structure that limits the interior of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently fixed with struts and contractions.
Installed from a board 50x150 mm. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper run, washed down the shape directly on the board and cut out. A template is applied to the run at the installation sites of the rafters, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws and on nails.
To perform the upper rafters, it is necessary to mark the center of the roof. This can be done with a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tightening from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, a template is prepared from a 25x150 mm board, applying it to the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the run on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
According to the template, the required number of rafter legs is performed. The rafters are installed on the girders and connected in the upper part with the help of overhead metal plates or board scraps for self-tapping screws. In the run, the rafters rest on the cuts and are fixed on the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are fixed with the help of struts installed with the lower end on puffs. So put all the rafters. Hanging racks are attached - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the puff.
They put struts under the lower rafters from a board of 50x150 mm, resting them with their lower oblique cut into the floor beam and fixing them on the corners, and the upper edge is attached to the side to rafter leg, nailed on one or two nails, and then drilled through hole and fastened with a bolt or stud. After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and racks.
Gables are sewn up, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in the pockets of the walls, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form a roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the Mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillies.
corresponding to the type of roofing - solid or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the crate and the roofing is installed, for example,.

A sloping mansard roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space formed under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces the heating of the attic rooms in summer and provides additional thermal insulation in winter. Therefore, when sewing gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the floors of the attic floor.

Video - instructions for building a mansard roof

The construction of the attic floor is possible both during the construction of the house itself, and after, if these actions were not planned initially. In both cases, do-it-yourself attic - this good way get more living space.

Arrangement of the attic floor with attic walls

With an attic wall, as a rule, an attic is installed with a simple gable roof, as in the diagram above. In the case of the manufacture of a hipped sloping roof, such walls can not be built. The design provides attic ceiling heightnecessary for comfortable use of the room.

Do-it-yourself frame attic: construction is carried out from wood, there is no need to attach attic walls

Reinforcing lining of the walls of the attic floor

Now you need to perform the reinforcing strapping of the walls. Its installation is mandatory, regardless of whether we laid out the attic walls or not. This will ensure the strength of the structure made of aerated concrete or brick, and will not allow it to spread to the sides. Also, due to the strapping of the floor, the Mauerlat will be attached, on which, in turn, we will build the attic roof truss system.

The reinforcing strapping is made monolithic, and goes inextricably along the entire perimeter of the walls. It is assembled from longitudinal reinforcement bars intercepted by clamps. In the figure below you can see what this design looks like. The distance between the longitudinal rods may vary depending on the thickness of the walls.

How to build an attic: an armored belt device in cross section

Important: reinforcing strapping should be connected only with clamps, welding cannot be used. The construction of the building will never be 100% static, and even with small movements, the welded strapping can break. The use of clamps will give the armored belt the necessary elasticity.

We arrange fixed formwork for tying. To do this, we use either U-shaped blocks, as in the upper part of the picture, or, if the walls are brick, we make a prefabricated formwork. You can see both options in the photo.

Do-it-yourself attic: photo of laying the frame of the armored belt in the formwork of foam blocks

When the strapping frame is laid in the formwork, we install studs or anchors with a thread and a nut into it for the subsequent installation of the Mauerlat. Studs must be taken with a diameter of 12 mm, the distance between them is 1.0 m.

Attic device: the reinforcing belt is poured with concrete, anchors are visible from the outside

Important: between the frame and the outer wall of the formwork, it is necessary to lay a layer of insulation. In the future, it will have to dock with the mansard roof insulation, so the material should be the same there and there. Thermal insulation should protrude to the surface in the thickness of the Mauerlat.

We fill the frame with concrete and wait for it to solidify completely, after which it will be possible to continue construction.

Superstructure of the attic floor: an armored belt with insulation is installed on the attic wall

Now we are building the pediments. They can be both with windows and without them - in this case, window openings are made in the attic roof. After that, you can proceed with the installation of Mauerlat. In the photo you see the construction of the attic floor with your own hands with the construction of attic walls.

Do-it-yourself attic, photo taken at the stage of building gables

Do-it-yourself attic: video contains useful information, which is worth studying before starting construction.

Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat is made of timber with a cross section of 150 mm. If there are no bars of the required length, then we connect several short ones using anchors. In the bars we drill holes for the anchor, which we previously installed in the armored belt of the attic floor.

We lay a layer of moisture insulation on the armored belt. For this purpose, roofing material cut into ribbons is suitable. The material is overlapped and fused. Now we lay the Mauerlat so that the anchors enter the holes made for them, tighten everything with bolts from above. We leave the structure to stand for two or three days, then we tighten the bolts again. The figure below shows the scheme of fastening the Mauerlat to the armored belt of the attic floor.

Attic design: installation of a Mauerlat frame

If the house is built from a log, then the Mauerlat installation is not required, the rafters will rest against the upper logs of the bearing walls.

How to properly attach attic floor: emphasis of the rafters on the log of the load-bearing wall

Do-it-yourself attic construction: Mauerlat mounting video.

Important: before installation, the Mauerlat bars, like the entire truss system, must be treated with an antiseptic composition. If this is not done, the frame will be subject to fungal infections and decay, which is fraught with a loss of strength for it, and, consequently, the destruction of the entire structure of the mansard roof.

Now that the installation of the Mauerlat is completed, you can start building and insulating the mansard roof, laying thermal insulation on the gables and walls, and finishing work.

We make the superstructure of the attic floor

The construction of an attic, unplanned earlier, will give you some trouble: here is the construction itself, and obtaining permission for it. However, the result will fully justify the effort. Despite some time and financial costs, building an attic with your own hands will be more profitable than purchasing a separate house or apartment.

Important: before making an attic on an old house in which it was not planned, you must first find out if this is possible. The extension will increase the load on the walls and foundation of the house, and to assess their bearing capacity, you will have to call a specialist who will make the necessary calculations for the construction

Construction work on the attic floor

After all permissions for the superstructure have been obtained and its drawing has been made, you can proceed with the construction. First of all, we need to dismantle the roof and the old truss system, and then the gables of the floor. The latter are disassembled due to the fact that we will need to increase them in height.

Raising the gables should be carried out to the height of the Mauerlat, approximately two bricks, or to the height of the attic wall, if one is to be built. The picture shows what it will look like. Alternatively, stone gables can be replaced with sip panels, so you reduce the load on the foundation and walls.

We build an attic with our own hands: raising the gables

The next moment of the superstructure of the unplanned attic floor is the installation of the Mauerlat. If we are building an attic with an attic wall, then further steps can be taken according to the technology described above for complex construction. If this wall is not built, then the Mauerlats will have to be fixed with brackets and wooden plugs. In the picture below you can see how this can be done.

How to make an attic with your own hands: fastening Mauerlat with brackets

Important: the bars for the construction of the Mauerlat should be as long as possible. The fewer butt joints there are, the stronger the whole structure will be. In addition, if the Mauerlat is made under the frame roof and has the shape of a closed frame, then it must be reinforced with brackets in the corners.