Installing a heavy door in a drywall partition. Correct frame Complete set and standard dimensions

The most important step in installing a door is fastening. door frame against the wall - the video below will confirm this. Weak fasteners, non-compliance with the level and other installation errors can lead to the canvas not entering the box or the door opening randomly. In the worst case, the whole structure will simply fall.

We suggest you explore several installation methods, and choose for yourself the one that seems to you the most optimal in your situation.

If you are changing old door to a new one, after removing the trim, carefully dismantle it with a nail puller, after sawing the box and wringing it out of the opening. Firmly seated old fasteners for the door frame can be cut down with a grinder.

Then it is necessary to examine the slopes for their strength, and the walls adjacent to them - for verticality and evenness. Inconsistency with the level and curvature of the walls will lead to the fact that visually the door will seem to be placed crookedly, and the platbands will not adhere to the plane of the walls.

Therefore, all the shortcomings should be tried to be corrected at this stage with the help of plaster or cladding along the frame.

In addition, even before the start of installation, you should make sure that the door leaf will enter the opening not only in width, but also in length. The instruction says that there should be a gap of about 1 cm between it and the floor. Keep this in mind if the floors have not yet been leveled or the flooring has not been laid.

Note. The opening should be slightly wider than the outer dimensions of the box. If this is not the case in your case, you will have to expand it or choose a different door model.

If the opening is too wide for the selected door, it will have to be reduced by bricking it or by embedding a drywall box in it. Leave a big gap and fill it mounting foam Not recommended. This will weaken the fixation and make it problematic to fix the skirting board at the door frame.

Mounting methods

There are several ways to fix the door frame in the wall opening. Each of them uses its own type of fastener. And each of the options provides a certain level of strength and reliability of the structure.

The choice of method depends both on the material of the walls and on the weight.

Foam mounting

The algorithm for performing work is simple:

• The assembled box with a hinged door leaf is inserted into the opening and fixed in it with wooden wedges;

• The building level determines its correct position relative to the vertical. Moreover, the level must be applied to two adjacent faces: inner and side;

• Spacers 3 mm thick are inserted between the frame and the closed door on top and on the sides;

Advice. In order not to stain the canvas with foam and not damage it, you can use spacers made of wooden slats or special adjustable fixtures instead.

• Foaming foam small areas between the wall and the box;
• When they dry, the entire perimeter is filled with it. You can’t do this right away, because, expanding, the foam will put pressure on the box. Foaming the perimeter, you should not fill it completely, initially half the volume is enough to leave room for expansion.

The basis of the door set of interior doors is the door frame. The operational properties of doors largely depend on what it is, what it consists of and how it is installed.

What is a door frame?

Door frame - part door block, which is attached to the doorway, and already to the box door hinges the door leaf is attached. This element of the door is called a box because with the threshold it forms a rectangle into which the door leaf is inserted. Used to install swing doors.

Door frame in the doorway.

A standard door frame for a single-leaf swing interior door without a threshold consists of two and a half sticks (one stick on the right, one stick on the left and at the top of the floor of the stick - a crossbar). The standard door frame stick has dimensions: 70 mm - width, 30 mm - thickness and 2100 mm - height. Each manufacturer may have slightly different sizes.

When measuring doorways to order doors of the required width, it is important to know the exact dimensions of the frame in order to determine the width of the door block together with the frame and thereby know whether the door block will fit in the opening and, if so, how much space will be left on the sides. In addition, it depends on the width of the door frame whether extensions are required or not.

Sectional door frame post

Telescopic and simple door frame

According to the method of attaching the platbands to the door frame, a simple box and a telescopic one are distinguished. The telescopic door frame has a slot for inserting a telescopic casing into it. Simple platbands are attached to a simple door frame using special nails without a hat or glue.

What material is the door frame made of?

The door frame coating is almost always the same as the door leaf coating (veneer, laminate, eco-veneer, PVC), but the base can be of two types: homogeneous and combined. A homogeneous box is a box made of a single material, usually solid pine or MDF.

In our online store of doors, doors of the Okean factory and economy class doors for painting "Canadian" are completed with solid wood boxes. MDF boxes - almost all laminated doors.

The combined material of the box necessarily includes MDF and some other material, for example, thick plywood, chipboard, solid wood, etc. This method of manufacturing the box gives it rigidity, and also ensures that the box is resistant to deformation from temperature and moisture.

door frame seal

This is a soft element in the form of an overlay, which is attached around the entire perimeter of the porch of the box - in the place where the door leaf adjoins the box. The seal provides sound insulation, thermal insulation, prevents the penetration of odors. In addition, the door closes softly and silently, does not rattle against the box.

Embedded fittings

The door frame is mainly sold in the form of sticks (blanks), which, at the place where the doors are installed, are sawn by the craftsman to the desired size and at the desired angle, and the hinges and strike plate for the latch are cut into the frame.

But doors with already embedded fittings are also sold in the factory. Hinges and a reciprocal level are already cut into the box, and the box itself is sawn down to the desired angle and size. Such doors with embedded fittings include almost all doors with a vestibule (otherwise they are called "Finnish doors"). In our online store of doors with a porch, you can find doors from the manufacturers "Cabinet Maker", "Mario Riolli".

Threshold for an interior door

This is a part of the door frame (lower crossbar) that serves to tightly close the door, which provides significant sound and heat insulation. In a residential area, the provision of these conditions is required mainly only for a bathroom. That is why it is customary to install the threshold only on the doors to the bathroom and toilet.

Although modern tendencies repairs show that many do not put thresholds in the bathroom, preferring simplicity and convenience. As an alternative, you can use an automatic threshold that is built into the door leaf and lowers when the doors are closed.

Door frame installation

The door frame is installed in such a way that the gap between the door leaf and the frame at the top and sides is uniform and is no more than 3 mm, and at the bottom between the door leaf and the floor is 8-10 mm, depending on the evenness of the floor. The door must not close on its own when in the open position.

In the doorway, the box can be attached in three ways:

First way- the box is fastened with dowels in three places - in the places where the hinges are attached and under the striker plate. This is a more aesthetic way of fastening, when all fastening points are hidden under the fittings.

Second way- the box is fastened with dowels in six places, three on each side. The box is drilled through from the front side, and after installation, the holes are closed with plugs, similar to how it is done when assembling cabinet furniture. This method of fastening is more reliable and durable.

Third way fastening the door frame - the frame is attached with iron plates (canopies). The plates are attached to the inside of the box in six or more places, and then these iron plates are attached to the doorway. This mounting method combines the advantages of the first and second methods, but is more laborious and more expensive in terms of installation costs.

If extensions are attached to the box, then it is better to install them together with the box. In the box for extensions, there must be a groove (recess) where extensions are inserted. Otherwise, when installing extensions, the master will have to prepare a box for extensions, which will cost extra money.

On sale the door unit is found in the assembled state or in parts. In the first case, the canvas is matched to the block, and all parameters are adjusted by the manufacturer. If the acquired door does not fit into the opening, then it is expanded. In the second case, you can purchase parts of the door frame and the leaf separately and fit the block to the doorway.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

• self-tapping screws;

• screwdriver or screwdriver;

  hacksaw with a blade for wood and metal;

  pencil or marker.

Door Installation Tools

So, let's start assembling the door frame.

On a flat horizontal surface (floor or large table) we spread the material that will serve as protection against scratches during assembly.

We lay out 2 vertical bars, a disassembled box. They have a vestibule - special grooves that fix the canvas.

We put the door leaf into the porch, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm.

We align the racks of the box and apply the top bar.

Mark the length of the top of the box and cut off the excess. It’s worth cutting strictly in size, but if you missed a little, it doesn’t matter, small imperfections will be hidden by the casing.

Screw the top rail to the uprights using self-tapping screws or carefully nail it.

Measure the doorway again and cut off the excess.

The doors to the bathrooms are equipped with a threshold. Measure another short threshold beam in the same way as the top rail.

The door frame is ready for installation.

Assembly order

The technique is a right angle. At self assembly it is recommended to fully mount the structure, and only then place it in the opening.

In some step-by-step instructions, a different technology is considered - the preparation and installation of individual parts of the frame in the opening, their alignment with linings and further connection into a single whole. This method is much more difficult, and without proper experience it is better not to practice.

1. Preparation of the workplace: free a certain segment on the floor, put together several tables of equal height. The task is to provide a smooth, solid foundation. Otherwise, it will not work to make a high-quality assembly of the box for the entrance, interior door.
2. Measuring the dimensions of the opening. Produced in 3 levels (width) and 3 points (height: center and sides). In accordance with this, the required dimensions of the box are determined; there should be a technological gap between it and the walls (recommended within 4 ± 1 mm).

1. Open samples. It is done if their dimensions in length do not match the opening. To do this, you need a pencil (draw lines) and a hand saw.
2. Pre-assembly of the box. All parts are laid out according to the scheme, taking into account the direction of opening the canvas. That is, it takes into account which side of the rectangle the porch and the loop jamb should be on. After aligning the “shape”, its geometry is controlled, the sizes match, and marks are applied to select a part of the quarter.
3. Connection preparation. Notches are made along the marked lines, after which a part of the part is removed with a chisel. To increase the reliability of the joint, the cut is leveled to an ideal state - with a knife, file, grinder.
4. Marking for fittings and material selection. It is more expedient to immediately prepare the “nests” for the hinges, the striker of the latch (lock), than to do this after the door frame is installed in the opening. But modern canopies (for example, "butterflies") should not be fixed. They are fixed on the box when hanging the canvas. The only exception is for loops of old modifications, collapsible; one half of them is installed on the frame during its assembly.

1. The connection of the parts of the box. For each "line" - at least two fasteners. The interval between them is chosen so that they are located at least 5 mm from the edge.

Note. If a threshold is provided, then it is placed in a box with the expectation that there should be at least 10 mm from it to the canvas. This is necessary to ensure the natural circulation of air currents.

It remains only to check the correctness of the geometry, to process the joints in order to eliminate possible differences in height and install the door frame in the opening.

It turns out that there is nothing super complicated in the assembly of the jamb. In the process of work, cutters, a laser level and other special tools (equipment) will not be needed. All that is needed for the "design" of the box is accuracy, attentiveness and marking accuracy.

Properly taken size is the key to success

Standard door leaf sizes are

• height 2000 mm
• width 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm and 900 mm

All other sizes outside the scope - as a rule, are custom items. (I mean single canvases, not swing)

70 mm must be added to the size of the canvas - this is the standard width of the door frame. If the dimensions of the door frame are different, then the size will naturally change up or down. And we also add 6 mm - this is the technological gap between the leaf and the door frame.

Now you need to check how the door frame becomes in the doorway. If it needs to be expanded, then we are not in a hurry to break everything at once. We soberly assess the situation - it may be necessary to strengthen the opening with jumpers. If you need to reduce the opening, then we lay it with a brick, or we “sew” the bars - it all depends on the situation.

In order for you to understand what size of the doorway is needed, then we look at the formula:

Door leaf size + door frame size + 6 mm tech. gap + 60 mm (30 mm on each side for mounting foam and wedges that will be needed when mounting the box)

Normally, doorway sizes are controlled at the construction stage, but in older private homes (like mine) there are "hard" inconsistencies.

The next important dimension is the gap from the floor to the door leaf. Before you calculate it, you need to check the level of the floors for the width of the “opening” of the door.

You can do this in two ways:

1. With the help of a hydraulic

On the side walls of the opening, we set marks at the same level. We measure the distance from each mark to the floor plane. The difference you get from the measurement should be added to the minimum height of the posts so that the door does not hit the floor when opened. If you still “miss” this moment, then you can eliminate it only by trimming the door leaf, and this is still “hands-on” :(

2. With a laser level

If you happy owner laser level, then everything is greatly simplified. We set the level and, using a building square, determine the curvature of the floors. The resulting values ​​are taken into account when setting sizes

The minimum gap is 10 - 15 mm, depending on what kind of flooring is planned. But it is better to immediately lay linoleum, or carpet, or, and then carry out the installation.

See the table of correspondence of door blocks and openings.

And here is another table of typical sizes of door frames

Operation and maintenance of interior doors

In order to interior door lasted longer and retained its original appearance, you must adhere to simple rules for care and use:

1. It is recommended to use interior doors under conditions of room temperature from +10 to +30C° and humidity not more than 65%.
2. It is not recommended to allow a sharp temperature drop or an increase in air humidity in the room, which will lead to damage to the structure.
3. For rooms with high level humidity, or in unheated buildings it is strongly not recommended to install MDF doors.

   For such rooms, a glass door is suitable.

4. If the room has high humidity, in order to prevent damage to interior doors, it is necessary to constantly ventilate the room.
5. It is necessary to open and close the door in such a way as not to cause damage, chips or scratches on the door leaf or frame.
6. In order not to spoil the appearance of the doors, it is necessary to carefully treat any mechanical influences.
7. It is recommended to wipe the door from dust and dirt with specially designed wood care products in order to avoid damage to the coating.

   Can be varnished

8. The door must be cleaned with a soft cloth or cotton cloth.
9. Never use acid or alkali for cleaning.

Before you purchase a door leaf, you need to carefully check the appearance and the necessary equipment.

By following simple rules, you can ensure that the doors will delight with their beauty for a long time.

Interior doors from MDFInterior doors from solid wood

Interior doors made of glassMetalplastic interior doorsCombined interior doors

Assembly and installation of an interior door frame: dimensions, how to properly assemble the structure, make and connect a box with an MDF threshold for a door measuring 80 cm, installation of door jambs, loot, washed down the corner of the beam, video, photo

Features of assembling a box for wooden baths

Wood is an excellent building material, which differs from others in the ability to settle after construction, which is not too pleasing to the owners. Openings in baths and houses made of logs or timber should not be equipped at all in the next couple of years after the construction of the crowns. Moreover, it is necessary to find out how to properly install the door frame in a timber or log opening.

There are 2 options here:

• If the width of the opening formed during the construction process corresponds to the design solution, a groove is cut in the end right in the middle and then a beam is hammered into it. It is to this beam that the box can be nailed, it is impossible directly to the walls, because even after shrinkage they continue to “settle” a little.
• If the opening is not formed, you need to cut a hole for the passage with a width less than the design one by two thicknesses of a kind of ridge. Box timber in such cases is made with a groove.

In both versions, the elements of the box at the same time serve as a connector for the crowns. A gap is always left above the opening to protect it from deformation during the shrinkage period.

Which of the methods of collecting the box to use is up to the owner to decide. A lot depends on the specifics of operation and on the properties of the building material. With the most significant moments and the subtleties that you should not forget, we tried to acquaint.

Inserting and hanging hinges for a door frame

I’ll immediately draw your attention to the fact that without a professional tool and experience, you are unlikely to be able to install high-quality mortise hinges. Cutting is done with a manual milling machine, and not with a chisel and a hammer, as many people think and are mistaken

Therefore, I recommend buying overhead hinges, as in the photo. They do not require tie-in, and their installation does not take much time and effort. The overhead loop consists of two parts entering one into the other and forming one plane. Lesser inner part fastened to the door leaf, and a large one to the rack of the box.

Mark on the end of the door leaf 20 cm from each edge. Inspect the canvas carefully and decide in which direction the door will open

Here it is important not to make a mistake and correctly position the loops. The hinges of the hinges must face the direction of the opening of the door.

Position the hinge at the end until the hinges stop. Do not strongly press the hinge to the edge of the canvas. The loop should rotate freely on hinges, without touching the canvas. If, when opening the hinge, you notice that the hinge scrapes along the canvas, leave a small gap of 1mm.

Put a mark in one of the hinge holes and drill a hole slightly thinner than the self-tapping screw that comes with the hinges. No need to drill all four holes at once. You can make a mistake in the markup, and the loop will be taken to the side. After screwing in one self-tapping screw, and making sure that the loop has not moved out and sits evenly, drill the remaining holes and secure it. Do the same with the second loop.

Now fasten the counterpart of the loop to the rack of the box. For convenience, it is better to put the door leaf on the floor and place the rack of the box next to it. In order for the hinges to lie flat on the box, the door needs to be slightly raised by adjusting the height with wedges. Leaning the rack of the box against the end, make sure that it protrudes slightly above the canvas along the length, which after assembly will allow the necessary gap of 3 mm to form. Then drill holes to secure the hinge. Now you don’t need to completely screw the hinges yet, because you still need to assemble the box, and it’s more convenient to do it without a canvas.

The sequence of the simplest assembly scheme

There are not too many people who want to mill or painstakingly choose spikes with grooves without experience, and not everyone stocked up on equipment for perfect sawing diagonally. Therefore, most home craftsmen stop at the simplest scheme with the joining of elements at a right angle.

Now let's find out how to properly assemble the door frame. It is more convenient to work by laying out all the components at the same level horizontally. Most often this happens on a floor covered with cardboard or other soft material, less often on two tables moved together, four stools can be adjusted.

When buying a timber separately from the canvas, please note that the base for fixing the door in the opening should not be narrower than the canvas, and wider than the wall.

• On the site equipped for work, we lay out the box beam with the front side up, that is, outward with the porches. If the beam is wider than the canvas, we bring the plane of the door to the same level with the future box, placing paperback books under the canvas. According to any of the selected schemes, first three standard elements are involved in the work: a feigned and looped jamb and an upper crossbar.
• top crossbar door frame installed in a brick or foam concrete opening, it is recommended to make the boxes wider to increase the bearing capacity. Usually it is 0.5 cm narrower than the opening. To search for attachment points for vertical bars to it, first find the center of the lintel, then set aside equal distances in both directions.
• To form an equal gap around the entire perimeter between the canvas and the boxed beam, cardboard or old linoleum cut into pieces is laid.
• Having marked the gaps, we outline the cutting points without scratching the surface. It is better to press lightly with your fingernail. A pencil, especially a poorly sharpened one, is not recommended for marking by experienced craftsmen. It will not provide accuracy.
• We saw off the crossbar according to the chosen scheme.
• It is desirable to mark with an awl or a sharp scalpel a part of the feigned profile, which must be removed so that a plane forms at the junction. Then we “cut off” the marked area neatly with a chisel or saw it off. This is one of the most significant stages in the assembly of the box, which does not tolerate inattention and mistakes. A slight shortage in the length of the box bars will still be covered by the platband, and poorly cut with a chisel or sawn off ledges of the vestibule will be visible. Have you decided to drink? Take a hacksaw and cut so as not to accidentally tear off the veneer from the underlying plane. For insurance, it is better to cover it with cardboard. After we have done washed down to the depth of the protrusion, we clean off the excess with a chisel.
• We lay out the sawn-down bars back around the canvas with cardboard in the gap. With maximum accuracy, we note the location of the loops. The standard is an indentation for installing hinges of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the web. Without forgetting about the upper gap, we set aside a point on the hinge bar at a distance of 20.03 cm from the intersection of the lintel and the jamb.
• We put on two screws a loop map to the hinge bar and mark with a scalpel or awl the shape of the nest and the points of the holes for the screws. Slowly, scrupulously remove the veneer or array to a depth equal to the thickness of the card.
• We put the flags of the loops in the nests and fix them there with self-tapping screws. The lock striker on the box is installed only after the box is fixed in the opening and the canvas is hung, as there may be discrepancies.
• We return the loop bar to its place. We carefully verify the perpendicularity of the elements to each other. We fasten the crossbar and racks, distributing two self-tapping screws per connection.

The threshold is made in the same way as the lintel.

Opening measurement

Opening height measurement

For those who like to do everything with their own hands and reduce the cost of work, a short instruction is offered to help you correctly and quickly measure the doorway:

• Measurement should be carried out on "bare" walls. To do this, the door leaf and frame are removed before starting work.
• The distance between the walls is measured in several places: top, bottom and center. The smallest value is recorded.

Tip: If it was not possible to dismantle the door leaf and the frame, it is necessary to measure the door leaf or the size from the center of one of the trim to the center of the other opposite trim. This will give approximate figures for the size of the opening.

Opening width measurement

• The distance from the lowest point of the floor to the top of the opening is measured. or the distance between the floor and the center of the upper casing is calculated if the box could not be removed.

Opening measurement scheme

• The depth of the opening is equal to the width of the wall. Therefore, the width of each wall is measured: on both sides of the opening and from above, or the thickness of the door frame is measured, the wall protruding beyond it, if any, is added to it.

Opening size calculation

After taking measurements, you can correctly calculate the size of the door leaf.

This takes into account:

• The height of the door leaf and its width.
• Thickness and width of the door frame.
• Platband width.
• If there is a threshold, its dimensions.

For example, the calculation of the opening for a door leaf with dimensions is taken:

• Height - 2 meters.
• Width - 80 centimeters.
• Thickness of a box for a door - 25 millimeters.

When calculating the dimensions of the opening for an interior door, it is necessary to add the thickness of the box on both sides to the width of the door. In addition, the calculation also takes into account mounting gaps on each side, approximately 15-20 millimeters.

In this case, the width of the opening will be equal to: 800 + 25 + 25 + 15 + 15 = 880 millimeters. An example for counting is shown in the photo.

Scheme for calculating the width of the door opening with a frame

This width of the doorway is almost ideal for manufacturers of interior doors. Doors are easily mounted in the standard sizes of apertures of premises.

The height of the opening is calculated in a similar way, taking into account mounting clearances and the presence of a threshold. The height of the doorway will be: 2000+25+10+15=2050 millimeters.

As a result, for a door leaf with dimensions of 2 x 0.8 meters, an opening in the wall is 2.05 x 0.88 meters.

Scheme for determining the height of the opening

What is the thickness of the door frames? Usually the standard size is 75 millimeters. This must be taken into account when installing the door.

Otherwise, you will need to use a box expander or saw it off lengthwise. In this case, problems may arise during the subsequent installation of platbands, which will lead to damage appearance doors.

Scheme of installation of an additional element

To determine the parameters of the wall, it is necessary to measure its thickness from all sides in three places. If the parameters along the perimeter of the doorway are the same, an interior door with non-standard dimensions is ordered. With different thicknesses at these points, a door frame is sawn or an extension is placed.

Scheme of mounting a box with an extension

Watching the video in this article will allow you to correctly calculate the opening for installing the door leaf, taking into account the style, material characteristics, and operating conditions.

Assembling a door frame without a threshold

Consider assembling a door frame with your own hands using an MDF box as an example. We connect the upper parts at 45 °, as this is the most aesthetic way.

1. The first step is to trim the parts of the box. This is done in order to eliminate irregularities or factory defects.

If you have to use hand tool, then it is better to use a "fine-toothed" or a hacksaw for metal. Start making cuts from the side of the veneer so that the chips, if any, remain on the invisible side.

2. “Saw down” at 45 ° the hinged beam and the porch. It is best to do this with a miter saw, but if there is none, then you will have to work on a miter box. To avoid unevenness when washing down, the miter box must be fixed. We use a hacksaw with a small tooth.

3. Next, we move on to the most difficult part - “sawing” the upper part of the box - the lintels. You need to clearly set the size and not miss the corners. You can use a tape measure, but there is an easier way. To do this, we apply the lintel to the top of the door and mark the marks with a sharp pencil “in place”. To comply with the technological gap, you can use packing cardboard - its width is just 3 mm.

4. We mark the height of the hinged and feigned beams. How to find out the required height, I told a little higher. This is the height of the door leaf + the top gap of 3 mm + the bottom gap. If the floors are even, then 10 mm is enough. When opening the door leaf should not cling or rest against the floor. A very high gap should not be made - 10 - 15 mm is enough for normal air circulation. If the room is damp, then large values ​​\u200b\u200bare allowed.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

If there is a drop at the door installation site and there is no way to fix it, then the height of the racks may be different. The highest point of the drop is taken as zero.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

We constantly and scrupulously check all the applied dimensions before washing down. If the box is smaller than the canvas, then you will have to buy a new bar.

5. After all the components are sawed down, we assemble the MDF door frame together, having previously drilled holes with a smaller diameter drill to prevent the box from splitting. For connection we use self-tapping screws 50 cm on wood. It is more convenient to carry out work on the floor by placing cardboard or other material under the box.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

When you tighten the door frame, press its parts as tightly as possible, as the self-tapping screws will stretch them.

Well, this is the result you should get.

How to fix the door frame in the opening detailed instructions

The stronger and more securely the box will be fixed in doorway, the longer the door will last without requiring repairs. There will be no particular difficulties if you follow all the tips and instructions. When installing an interior door, it should be fixed so firmly that you can, for example, attach children's jumpers to it.

When fixing the door frame in the opening, you can additionally read the instructions

How to fix the door frame correctly:

• After the door has been fixed with spacers, three holes must be drilled on each support;
• Anchor bolts or metal rods are driven into the prepared holes, the ends of which are flattened;
• If the installation is carried out in concrete wall, then special dowels are driven in;
• All cavities are carefully filled with mounting foam with the expectation that it can double in volume;
• In a narrow passage for fastening door frames, wide metal plates with holes are used, into which self-tapping screws are screwed or anchors are driven in.

Choosing a material

I don't have a definitive answer here, as the choice depends on your preferences and budget. I will give examples of the most common materials used for door frames.

MDF doors

MDF is a fibreboard. Doors are cheap but look good. The advantages include lightness and environmental friendliness. Cons - this is a reduced impact resistance, poor sound insulation and a short service life.

Glued array

Glued board or "euro-beam".

These doors are not made of solid wood, but of parts glued together under high pressure. The joints are almost invisible. Doors are quite strong and cost a little more than MDF. The price and quality are acceptable.

Solid wood doors

Doors are much more expensive than glued ones. Strong and durable. The disadvantage is improper processing by the manufacturer, as a result of which the tree is excessively saturated with moisture.

Doors made of chipboard and fiberboard

Wood-fiber or wood-pressed boards. These doors are very cheap, as they are made from leftover material. The advantage of these doors is good mechanical strength, and quite good sound and noise insulation. The disadvantage is low moisture resistance, as well as the presence of a volatile substance in the adhesive, which adversely affects health. Another aspect is the complexity of installation, since self-tapping screws do not hold well in such doors.

In addition to those described, there are also plastic, glass, aluminum, veneered. Doors with honeycomb filling, laminated, etc.

The choice of material is up to you, but it should be appropriate and practical.

Dimensions of interior doors

Their elements are made of boards or pine timber, and on top it is decorated with veneer of trees of more valuable species.

Box thickness

In standard apartments built in the Soviet era, this size is 7.5 mm, so a box with a size of 10.8 cm is selected for them. If the thickness interior partitions equals 10 cm, then you need to install a box of 12 cm. These are standard sizes that are accepted by domestic state standards. In interior doors of foreign manufacturers, the range of door thickness is wider and goes from 8 to 20.5 cm.

If the thickness of the wall is greater than the selected box, then it can be grown using additional elements or use a compensatory frame, which can be telescopic, expandable or act as a transformer.

In the photo - the thickness of the box

When measuring interior doors, the thickness of the opening may be different, this is due to the peculiarity of the walls, they can be load-bearing or installed as partitions.

It is regulated and can be from 190 to 200 cm. These dimensions will satisfy the dimensions of the opening, which are in the range from 194 to 203 cm or 204-211 cm.

When calculating the height of the future door, you need to take into account the threshold. It can be from 1 to 2 cm, and in the end it can turn out to be 208 cm, and without it 206 cm. This is the ideal height that meets the standard sizes of many door frames.

Door construction width

It is measured from one to the second wall. Between this distance, the canvas and two side elements of the box should fit. The standard value is a width of 800 mm. Almost all manufacturers adhere to this particular dimension.

Dobor sizes

They can be as important as the box itself. Due to them, you can eliminate the hollow section of the doorway.

They are of two types:

1. Planks with a protective edge. They are fixed in the opening with nails or adhesive. Their width can be changed by sawing, and the height is 2 meters.
2. Telescopic extensions. Suitable for solving any deficiency in width. Their installation is carried out at the expense of a special lock, which is a "thorn groove". The groove is made in the box, and the spike is on the extension. Their width is adjustable from the side of the casing.

The feasibility of using extensions can be established after measuring the width of the doorway.

On the video dimensions of the extensions:

Dimensions of double-leaf specimens

Comfortable for use are dimensions for the width of the doors, which are 120-180 cm. If the opening does not allow them to withstand, then the door leafs will be different in width, one smaller leaf is fixed in its place, and the second with larger dimensions is used as a regular door. The latter has standard dimensions, and its smaller counterpart comes with dimensions equal to 1/3 of it.

Pictured are bi-fold doors.

The height of such doors can be from 2 to 2.5 m. The standard depth of double-leaf doors is from 7.5 to 11 cm.

It is not difficult to set the parameters of doorways if you know in what places they need to be measured. The obtained parameters are adjusted taking into account all gaps. If a mistake is made when installing interior doors, then it can be corrected by sawing the box or installing additional elements, the situation with the front door is not so simple. In the case of a large gap between them and the wall, it may be necessary to install a counter-box.

Side preparation

Then, on one of the side parts, which will be located on the side of the loops, you need to mark the places where the loops will be. Do this by attaching this part to the side surface of the door. The depth of the groove is made equal to the thickness of the hinge leaf. The recesses for the hinges are cut out very carefully so as not to damage the door leaf. With your own hands, this is easy to do with a chisel and a hammer, while experts usually use an electric cutter.

Next, you need to put the loops into the recesses prepared for them in this way, and using a drill, make recesses for self-tapping screws on the side surface. Moreover, the diameter of the recesses should be less than the diameter of the screws that will be located here. Then, using self-tapping screws, the hinges are attached to the door leaf.

A latch lock is installed on the other side surface of the door.

Assembling a box from complete parts

When buying a door in a complete set, you are faced with the fact that only the canvas corresponds to the size of the opening. The box has to be mounted and adjusted manually - the manufacturer cannot assemble it in advance, since he does not know Exact size opening.

There are also no hinges, handles on the doors (see Handles for interior doors - how to choose the best ones) and locks, because the fittings are installed depending on the direction the door opens. By the way, there may not be a threshold, and the thickness of the wall may turn out to be such that it will be impossible to block it without additional planks. Therefore, before assembling the door frame of the interior door, all these nuances must be taken into account.

Docking parts

The main snag when assembling the door frame is to correctly cut and connect the standing parts to the lintel. The crossbars and jambs have a profiled structure, and for an inexperienced person, the most difficult may be to cut at 45 degrees, and even more so - cutting grooves and tongues, performed before joining the parts.

If you type in the query string: “how to properly assemble a video door frame”, you will find a lot of videos with which you can clearly see what and how the craftsmen do. As for the theoretical part of the work, you can familiarize yourself with them by reading our article.

How to properly assemble an MDF door frame: connection by grooving

• You can use a regular miter box to make angled or straight cuts, but if you have the ability to use a miter saw, the cut will be much neater and more precise. But to make a spiked connection, which is shown in the photo above, you need a manual milling cutter.
• It should be noted that this option for joining the parts of the box is the most reliable. Tongue-and-groove joints are considered nailless, but for greater strength, craftsmen additionally reinforce them with galvanized nails. The spikes are formed over the entire thickness of the box beam, which must certainly be taken into account when marking out before cutting the parts to length.

Note! There is no big difference on which of the parts: vertical or horizontal, spikes will be cut, and on which grooves are selected - the main thing is that the connection is rigid. .

Cutting a blank for assembling a box with a miter saw

But if we look at things realistically, we understand that a router is a professional tool, and it is unlikely to be found in any home. And even more so, few people want to painstakingly choose the grooves in the beam with a chisel with their own hands. Therefore, home craftsmen choose more affordable connection options, preferring to join the box parts at an angle.

Assembly technology

The assembly of the door frame is carried out in several stages.

Stage 1

Door frame layout

1. Lay the bars on the floor door structure.
2. Carefully inspect the available material and make sure that the shortest bar of the structure has grooves (their presence is important for the convenient connection of all parts).
3. Carefully fit the grooves on the top bar together with the side bars, and then knock all these elements down. In order not to damage the material, use a wooden mallet.
4. Fasten the parts together with screws and check the reliability of the resulting structure.
5. In the absence of grooves in a short bar, all parts of the structure are fastened with nails or screws.

Stage 2

1. Compound Saw off the protruding ends of the wooden blocks (so that they do not interfere with the assembly).
2. Pay attention to the surface of the resulting door structure - it should be flat and smooth.
3. Check all corners of the structure - it is important that they are straight.
4. Take accurate measurements of the width of the top of the door frame.
5. Cut the rail so that its length is slightly longer than the measurement obtained, and attach it with nails to the side rails.
6. Cut off the unnecessary ends of the rail.

The next step is to install the door hinges.

Stage 3

Installing the hinges on the box

1. On inside measure 20 cm from the top edge.
2. Attach the door hinge and circle its outline with a pencil.
3. It is known that the folded hinge leaves a small gap from the door to the frame (0.4 cm). Given the thickness of the hinge, calculate the depth of its installation.
4. Using a router, make a platform for attaching the loop. If you didn’t have an electric mill, you can use a set of chisels for this purpose.
5. Similarly, make a seat for the bottom door hinge. But keep in mind that the distance from the bottom edge of the structure should be 21 cm (1 cm is allocated to the bottom gap).
6. Attach the door frame, with the hinges installed on it, to the door and mark the places on the door where the hinges will be attached. Arrange the slots on the door for the hinges in the same way that you previously made them on the frame.

Stage 4

Using a plumb bob during installation

1. Take measurements of the height of the side part and then transfer the obtained dimensions to the side bars of the door structure.
2. Keeping safety in mind, carefully lift the U-shaped box from the floor and proceed directly to its installation in the opening. Using a plumb or level, carefully check the verticality of the box, the perpendicularity of all its constituent elements and the horizontality of the top bar. From the first time, the frame may not “fit” into the opening (even if you have made all the measurements correctly). But that's not a problem. The resulting gaps between the opening and the box can be easily and quickly eliminated using wooden wedges or mounting foam.
3. After you install the frame in its place, be sure to secure it. Screw the door frame with dowels to the slopes of the opening.
4. Make sure that the door frame you assembled fits securely into the doorway.
5. Remove the temporary braces and battens, and don't forget to saw off the protruding parts of the wooden wedges.

Installation scheme

Proceed to hanging the door on the hinges and fastening the trim.

Fasten platbands with nails, screws, or glue. After installation, the nail heads are usually overwritten, and if self-tapping screws were used, decorative plastic caps are put on them.

As you can see, the installation of a door frame requires not only knowledge, but also experience. installation work and patience.

Door frame dimensions

The dimensions of a wooden door frame are determined by several parameters:

• The first is the dimensions of the door leaf selected for the box.
• The second is the purpose and characteristics of the premises.

Before starting work, you should read the instructions on how to assemble the door frame. It is worth saying that the different rooms there are different requirements for ventilation and sound insulation, and these, of course, must be provided by the installed door. So, for example, the door to the bathroom should not let cold air in, and at the same time, warm air should not leak out. Other rooms, such as storage rooms, on the contrary, need ventilation so that the materials inside do not deteriorate. If the door is installed in the boiler room, then it would be useful to make additional ventilation, especially if there is gas equipment.

To prevent heat loss, the design of the door frame is built from four bars. As a result, it will be a closed rectangle in shape. At the same time, the design of the door itself will contain such details as a feigned and hinged vertical beam, as well as lintels. Between the box beam and the door around the entire perimeter, it is necessary to maintain a gap of 3 mm so that the door moves freely.

If necessary, to ensure ventilation, the box is assembled from only three parts. In this case, instead of the threshold, a technological gap of 16-18 mm is left. The door base will then have the shape of the letter P. In this case, the necessary indentation of 3 mm must be observed only along the upper beam and vertical racks. In addition, a gap of 2.5-3.5 mm must be maintained between the threshold and the new floor covering in order to compensate for the expansion of the material during temperature changes.

A closed box is usually larger in height than an open one. This is due to the fact that the height increases due to the thickness of the threshold, and, consequently, the thickness of the door frame will be greater. This must be taken into account when carrying out calculations and measurements. Otherwise, the door will be too long and will have to be shortened to fit the opening. This is highly undesirable, especially if the canvas has a veneer coating. If you have to saw such a coating, it is best to start from the side where there is decorative trim, and then move to the side where this finish is not. In this case, the design of the box will not be violated.

How to install a frame in an opening

The door frame assembled from any material must be correctly inserted into the opening intended for the door, so that it performs its functions for a long time without squeaks and jams.

Installing an interior door with a frame

To do this, you need to work as follows:

• Carefully move the assembled structure to the proper place and temporarily fix it with foam or packing cardboard. The level is used to check the verticality of the surface with the side where the loops will be attached. The strength of the structure is necessary so as not to knock down the evenness of the installation, therefore, fixation is inserted into the gaps with wedges. They are made from wood waste.
• The installation for such fastening is carried out from below the loop arrangement, there will be fastening with dowels or screws. Stakes are hammered in the upper corners, they achieve a stable position of the entire frame. Spacer wedges are driven in one by one on each side, trying to combine them with each other in cut parts. On one side, the installation of extensions is carried out, the other is carried out with the alignment of the door frame with the wall surface.
• The fastening of the door frame takes place with the help of holes prepared for the fasteners in order to install the hinges. Wedging must necessarily be present there so that deformation moments do not occur at the time of screwing the screws. At the same time, the feigned side is slightly fixed, not brought to the final stage. In order not to knock down the dimensions, the installation of this part occurs after the door leaf is installed.
• For stability, foam is applied to the gaps.
• Install all door hardware.
• They put a gasket under the canvas and screw the hinged parts alternately, you need to start from the top.

After completion, completely close the door, using spacers, finish the installation of the vestibule. After that, proceed to the application of foam around the perimeter of the entire structure. Experts recommend using spacer stakes, only they will provide reliable stability and prevent the risers from skewing.

You should not increase the number of fasteners, since the door leaf acts with its load with the help of hinges, so the focus is on these places. . Extra hardware can create the appearance of unnecessary holes and only under the hinged base will the fasteners securely hold, which must be screwed tightly

It is impossible to hide unreliable screwing with foam, it is not able to get rid of the problem.

Extra hardware can create the appearance of unnecessary holes and only under the hinged base will the fasteners securely hold, which must be screwed tightly. It is impossible to hide unreliable screwing with foam, it is not able to get rid of the problem.

Do-it-yourself door installation is shown in the video:

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Door frame assembly process

In this kind of work, preparation plays a big role. The process of assembling the door frame usually does not cause much difficulty. To do this, prepare the most necessary tools (drill or screwdriver) and screw several bars into one common structure.

In order for the installation of the box to go quickly and in an organized manner, you need to prepare a number of devices:

Door frame assembly tools.

• roulette;
• pencil;
• drill with drills different diameters or perforator;
• screwdriver;
• chisel;
• electric jigsaw;
• planer for leveling door elements;
• plumb, level;
• hacksaw for wooden surfaces;
• mounting foam;
• screws;
• finishing nails.

Installation of the door frame begins with the preparation of the drill. A drill 2-3 mm in diameter is screwed onto it, then the corner of the future box is carefully aligned with the end of the support and 2 holes are drilled. You can’t do without them, because screws can damage the wood when screwing in. Once the holes are drilled, you need to take a Phillips screwdriver and screw 50-60 mm screws into the finished hole. Other corners are done in the same way.

Diagram of the assembly of the door frame.

These are the main points used in the construction of the door leaf

To check the matching of sizes, you should put it in a box, focusing on gaps, the allowable dimensions of which will be 2-3 mm. As soon as the appropriate measurements are made, the products are combined into one design.

The door frame can also be assembled in another way, supports and lintels with a threshold can be cut at an angle of 45°. However, this approach is complex, so it is best to entrust it to specialists. Here you will need special equipment, experience in carrying out such work.

Step by step instructions on how to assemble the structure. Photo

In order to do the installation of the interior door box with your own hands, first you need to cut the timber, according to pre-measured dimensions.

1. Initially, you need to cut parts with a longer length, be sure to take into account the gap from the floor to the door (depending on the thickness of the flooring).
2. Next, cut off the rest of the bars, exactly with the measured dimensions.
3. Any trimming of the canvas that is required is best done with a “circular” in order to exactly maintain the size - 45 º.

   Cutting blade at a 45 degree angle

4. Connect long and small parts that have been cut off, clamp them with a clamp and drill through accurately. Perform drilling for two (according to the same principle) on both sides and tighten the elements together with self-tapping screws.

The main thing is to carefully monitor that in no case there is a mixture or skew of the combined elements.

1. After the side into which the door will open is selected, you can install the hinges and lay the U-shaped box. Attach door leaf. It is worth considering that there should be a gap of 3 mm between the box and the canvas (for accounting, you can put cardboard between the two elements).
2. Check whether the right angle is observed everywhere and whether there are necessary gaps.
3. Next, you can start marking the place for mortise lock and loops.

   lock inset

4. Now you can remove the door leaf from the box.
5. At this stage, it is necessary to embed the counterpart of the lock to make the corresponding groove.
6. Fasten the parts with screws and screw the hinges to the door leaf.

   Hinge installation

7. After that, carefully check everything again, try to turn the door leaf in the direction in which the door will open.
8. Then you can proceed in two ways:
9. Install the entire unit: box, canvas and necessary parts;
10. Box separately with spacers.

The door leaf must be covered with adhesive tape or film in order to protect it from mounting foam, which will then be very difficult to remove.

1. Place the canvas in the box carefully in the opening and use wedges to fix its upper part.

   Fixing the door leaf

2. Check alignment with a level or plumb line and vertical position established design.

Even if the doorway has some vertical deviations, the door is still installed vertically, otherwise, it will not close later.

1. After the wedges fix the structure, a spacer is installed (door width + 6 mm), clearly opposite the wedges located below.
2. Now you can foam the structure, with closed door and after it dries, remove the wedges and excess building foam.

   Foaming the box

Mounting foam is unsafe, so it is recommended to work with it only with gloves.

Recommendations on how to connect a box with an MDF threshold for an 80cm door

The threshold is a frame expander and includes special strips that fit the width of the opening, which are matched in color and texture to the door leaf or to the frame.

Thresholds are most often made of MDF and generally have a height of up to 20 mm.

Special strips for the threshold are attached to the box with screws, and building foam is blown into the gaps formed from the wall.

Provided that the door is 80 cm wide, the box will be mounted in the doorway, everything must be carefully measured so that the box fits the threshold.

Based on the previously made measurements, according to the classical scheme, a box is installed and, before blowing foam, a threshold is set, the size of which should differ by 80 cm + 6 mm for gaps.

Advantages of pressing

The choice of many owners of MDF doors and boxes is due to the following advantages:

• the provision of not large load effects on the bearing elements due to the lightness of the materials
• products are made with a homogeneous structure, which is the reason for their integrity, in addition, the stability of fasteners is noticed
• development technological processes in the field of decor, produces products with imitation of expensive natural finishes

The disadvantages of cheap panels include:

• poor resistance to direct contact with water, swelling and deformation of geometric parameters occur
• changing forms leads to the installation of a thin door frame and a heavy door leaf
• requires careful handling of mechanical damage
• installation contains time-consuming procedures

If we compare MDF and wooden boxes, of course, natural material takes precedence from all sides.

Even having lost its original appearance over time, it is easy to return it with the help of repair and restoration. But consumers often in the first place is their ability to pay.

The materials and tools for carrying out the work are no different from the list above, except for the MDF elements themselves. The main condition for the assembly is the formation of a resulting rectangle.

The work must be carried out on a flat surface on which the following occurs:

• door panel installation
• on the side sections have details of vertical risers
• cut the workpieces, adjusting the height with the appropriate 3mm. gaps at the top and bottom, if a threshold is provided
• the jumper at the top is also cut in accordance with the width and side gaps

Then they proceed to the connecting actions of the jumper and the vertical riser. As soon as the assembly is completed, it is necessary to check whether a structural distortion has occurred.

Making a door frame

Scheme of manufacturing a door frame.

You can assemble a box for interior doors on your own from a standard wooden box profile (beam). First, the height and width of the doorway are carefully measured. 30 mm is subtracted from the height of the opening; two beams of this length are measured and cut off for the side racks. The upper crossbar is prepared in the same way. Using a special tool - a miter box - the upper ends of the side posts and both ends of the crossbar are cut at an angle of 45º. A special tool is used to accurately form the corner. When preparing the crossbar, it should be noted that the length of its smaller side after cutting the corners should be the width of the door leaf plus 7 mm.

The side stand and the crossbar are joined along the cut so that the bars are strictly perpendicular. Beforehand, a soft sealing gasket of small thickness (approximately 3 mm) is laid between them. The bars are compressed and fixed with clamps. Two holes are drilled in a long element perpendicular to the cut plane with a diameter of 4 mm. Through the holes, the joint is tightened with screws. It is advisable to coat the joint planes with carpentry glue. Similarly, the second corner of the box frame is pulled together. For temporary strengthening of the structure, it is recommended to install a removable jumper at the bottom.

Even greater confidence in the strength of the joint can be achieved by installing a dowel. To do this, a hole with a diameter of 12-15 mm is drilled in the middle of the joint perpendicular to the plane of the cut (the joint of the bars) and a wooden dowel is hammered into it. The hole and the connecting element are pre-coated with wood glue.

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How to install a door frame for an interior sash

Looking for the most acceptable option for an interior door, you can not leave out the question of a door frame for a vending product. The choice and installation of the door frame is sometimes simply impossible due to the unacceptable wall thickness or the unfortunate location of the opening. In order to correctly select and then correctly install the structure in question, careful measurements and calculations are necessary.

The width largely determines the aesthetics of the design and the opening itself: for example, with a narrow interior door, the space has to be blocked by installing additional elements or platbands. At the same time, a door frame that is too wide causes significant alterations in the partitions or walls of the room.

Before starting the required calculations, it is necessary to perform a number of measurements. Without this, the installation process will be quite tedious and may not work the first time. The measurements are subject to:

• the actual width of the existing opening (taking into account the space remaining after all dismantling works);
• the actual height of the opening (limitations are the same as for the width);
• wall thickness at the location of the opening;
• distance to the nearest corner of the room/room.

The described list is valid in the event that the opening will not be transferred, and everything will be limited only to the installation new door. Otherwise, the situation will become even more complicated.

First of all, it is worth analyzing the standard sizes of door frames for interior doors. Of course, with the availability of appropriate funds, it is possible to order a non-standard design. Especially when it comes to arranging interior transitions in large halls or living rooms.

You should also take into account the country in which the interior door is made. Products imported from France, for example, have dimensions that differ from those generally accepted in our country.

Fortunately, there are no more exceptions - all products of Italian and Spanish production have already been adapted to domestic standards.

Canvas size, mm

Box size in plan, mm

The information given in the table applies only to the minimum and maximum dimensions of standard canvases produced by domestic furniture factories. For more detailed information, please contact the manufacturer directly.

In the selection process, the subsequent installation site of the finished product should also be taken into account. For example, formally, a design with overall dimensions 670 × 2047 mm, but if it is then impossible to bring into the room washing machine, then all the work will be in vain.

Preparing the bars and assembling the box

Our door is flat and therefore for our door the length of both vertical beams will be 2010 mm (door leaf height 2000 mm + two gaps between the door leaf and the box beam of 5 mm at the top and bottom). Be sure to check the cut on each side of the timber, as they often do not meet the 90 degree angle from the factory. To ensure a smooth cut and a 90 degree angle, it is better to use a miter box. The lintel and the threshold are also the same for us, 860 mm each (door width 800 mm + two gaps between the door leaf and the box beam of 5 mm on the left and right + 50 (two thicknesses of the box beam without taking into account the size of the porch, which has a height of 10 mm). Further a very crucial moment follows, shown below in the figures.To tightly connect the horizontal beam with the vertical one, it will be necessary to saw off the rebate on both sides, both at the lintel and at the threshold, in our case by 35 mm (this is the thickness of our box beam, taking into account the rebate). 4 cuts that must be done carefully and carefully so as not to damage the side visible surface of the box beam with the teeth of the saw.To do this, do not cut the porch to the end, leaving somewhere 1 mm (it is better to carefully remove it with a chisel or file) and be sure to put it under the side visible surface of the box beam is a protective, dense and thin material (a piece of sheet of tin or transparent plastic).It is better to play it safe and be patient, the work is very delicate, because if you overdo it a little, the surface will remain damaged, which will spoil the appearance of the whole structure. When cutting the porch, it is necessary to ensure that the further connection of the perpendicular bars is without any gaps, using the same washed down at 90 degrees, discussed above.

Let's start twisting the box.

NOTE! When twisting, check the correct assembly with a square. And so that the process of screwing in screws (especially by hand and long ones) is easy and fast, use the old, time-tested, “old-fashioned” method, lubricating the threaded part of the screws with soaked soap (shown in the figure)

As fasteners, we use wood screws (70-80 mm long), having previously drilled holes with a drill (2.5 mm in diameter) in those places where it will be screwed in so that the beam does not burst. For a better and more reliable connection, it is recommended to drill holes to a depth slightly less than the length of the self-tapping screws (somewhere 60-65 mm for 70 mm fasteners), and, of course, the diameter of the drill should be less than the diameter of the shurpa core (that is, without a spiral external thread of the fastener element). We screw in two screws on one side of each corner of the box. If you want to make the box more durable, you can add another self-tapping screw in the middle on the other side of the corner.

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Assembly methods

The installation guide for the door frame depends on how it is assembled. Designs come with or without a threshold and with different nuances fastening details.

How to assemble a door frame at 45° and without a threshold

Usually, MDF products are placed according to this scheme. detailed instructions to make a box in this way:

1. To eliminate irregularities, it is necessary to trim the box blanks.
2. The hinged and feigned beams are sawn in the upper part, at 45 degrees inward. For work, it is better to use tools with fine teeth or a hacksaw for metal, this will help to avoid damaging the finish. When working with products made of eco-veneer or laminated MDF, it is best to saw from the wrong side so that possible cracks remain on it.
3. After processing the side parts of the box, you can proceed to sawing the lintel. It is sawn from both sides at 45 degrees inward. It is important to carefully measure everything so that the assembled parts form a right angle. Do not forget that a gap of 3 mm must be observed. Measurements can be made both with a tape measure, and by attaching a beam directly to the doorway, making notes with a pencil.
4. Next, you need to adjust the hinged and feigned timber in height, from the bottom, to the beginning of the sawn corner. In the absence of a threshold, it is enough to add two gaps to the height of the door, 3 mm + 10-15 mm. After hanging, the door must close sufficiently tightly, without obstacles to opening, and not touch the floor.
5. Once all the components are sawn down, you need to move on to assembling the parts. It is easier to work by laying them on the floor. For safety, it is better to use a drill with a small diameter. Self-tapping screws must be for wood, they are also screwed at an angle of 45 degrees. When fastening the parts, they must be pressed tightly against each other, as the screws stretch the parts.
6. After assembly, the structure must be tried on in the doorway, if the calculations are accurate, it will fit into it without any problems.

The measurements must be checked several times. If a mistake is made and the door frame is small for the canvas, you will have to purchase new material.

How to assemble a door frame with docking 90

The easiest assembly option that a beginner can handle is also often used when working with wood fiber materials. How to assemble with a docking of 90 degrees in stages:

1. The side beams are adjusted to the height of the doorway, taking into account all the gaps. They will reach the very top of the doorway.
2. The upper part is fixed between the hinged and feigned, so it must be shortened by as much as the width of both side beams. After connection, the three parts should fit snugly into the opening in width.
3. After preparing the components, you can proceed to the assembly. Holes for self-tapping screws are made in advance to avoid wood cracks, they should enter from the sides, at an angle of 90 degrees.

Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Structures equipped with thresholds are usually installed at the entrance to houses, as they retain heat and make the box more durable. Even though a new part is added, assembling the parts is not difficult. The first steps are identical to those performed during the installation of boxes without a threshold. The lintel and side rails can be installed at angles of 45 and 90 degrees. The threshold is always set at a right angle. Step-by-step instruction for assembling a box with a threshold:

1. The threshold beam must be cut exactly at a right angle, observing the width, from one side part to the second, you can also focus on the formula: door width + 6 mm gap. To correctly determine the height of the threshold, it is necessary to put the structure in the door leaf.
2. Next, you need to carefully cut down the stubborn quarter on the feigned and hinged timber, to the height of the lower board, for tight fastening of the threshold. Measurements must be accurately taken, otherwise you can simply spoil the material.
3. Once the components are prepared, you can proceed to their connection, also tightening tightly so that the parts do not spread. When working with entrance doors It is better to use galvanized screws.

Door frame pin connection

A less common way of connecting the parts of the box can be done without the use of self-tapping screws, however, it is best to use galvanized nails or a special mounting adhesive to ensure strength.

The principle of this method is that at the junction of the components, it does not matter whether they are placed at a right angle or at 45 degrees, spiked joints are cut out. One of the parts has the connection itself (thorns), and the second has grooves machined for it, into which it is tightly inserted.
.

We prepare material and tools

Since we are talking about improving the interior of the room, before starting the assembly, you need to decide on the material:

• Metal - has excellent strength, so it is best suited for front doors. But keep in mind that working with metal requires special tools, skills and high costs energy.
• Wood is an excellent combination of strength and environmental friendliness, so it is a versatile option. Noble varieties of wood are suitable for both exterior doors and interior doors.
• MDF (wood fiber board) is an environmentally friendly material made from sawdust with a natural binder, has a smooth surface, looks good, and therefore is perfect for the case when you need to install interior doors. MDF is easily processed, is not afraid of moisture, and in many respects is not inferior to wood at a price almost two times lower.

The material should be enough:

• a beam under the door frame (two lengths L + 8 cm, where L is the height of the door and two more lengths N + 8 cm, where N is the width of the door leaf);
• platbands and extensions (in case the width of the doorway is greater than the width of a standard beam).

If the box is without a nut, then only one beam of shorter length will be needed - on the upper crossbar.

Prepare essential tool. We will need:

• slick;
• hammer;
• a hacksaw (ideally, a special power saw with a rotary mechanism would be suitable, but we will proceed from the fact that you are not a specialist and do not have expensive tools);
• an electric drill with a replaceable bit, which can also be used as a screwdriver;
• level;
• carpentry knife.

For fastening, we will use screws of different sizes with a fine pitch.

Suppose you have already carefully dismantled the door frame that you want to change.

How to assemble a box

Novice masters choose the most easy way, join parts at right angles. To proceed with the procedure, you need to collect all the structural elements on a horizontal platform. A floor surface covered with any available material or shifted tables is suitable.

The technological process consists of the following working order:

• The bars are laid out with a front display, the door plane is aligned with the future box. Regardless of the selected connection, the elements consist of a hinged, feigned jamb and a lintel.
• The crossbar related to the ceiling frame, if it is installed in an opening made of foam concrete or brick, should be larger in width than the box, this increases the bearing capacity. Then they determine in which places to attach the jambs to the lintel. From the middle of the ceiling beam, equal dimensions are measured on both sides.
• Form the same gaps between the frame and the door leaf on all sides with the help of various gaskets.
• If necessary, they are determined with points for cuts.
• Carry out the manufacture of the crossbar.
• With an awl or scalpel, a simulated profile area is marked, for its further removal, in order to form an area for connecting points. According to the marks, neat saw cuts or cuts are carried out.

Installation actions are carried out with special attention. The tolerance of minor errors in the dimensions of the bars masks other elements, unaesthetically acts on feigned areas

Excess formation can be removed with a chisel if the recess is cut correctly.

The next assembly step consists of the following steps:

• Pieces of bars prepared with the necessary cuts are laid out where gaps are indicated on the canvas by gaskets. Mark the places where the loops will be located. If selected standard door, the upper gap is attached to this dimension and a point is determined equal to the distance of 2.03 m from the intersections of the jamb with the lintel.
• The hinged sashes are screwed onto the corresponding beam with screws, the border is marked with a sharp object, along which the material will be removed and traces at the points, mounting holes will be drilled there. According to pre-made measurements and markings, selective actions are carried out on the section of the bar. The recess should be equal to the thickness of the hinge element.
• After the forms for the hinged doors are formed, they are placed in the prepared recesses and screwed with screws.
• The verification of the correctness of all the fasteners carried out will complete the work, the crossbar element with the racks is fixed.

Only the accuracy of measurements, checking the level for compliance with all details, the literacy of fixing them without distortions, will provide the opportunity for good work for everything.

Final stage

The final stage is the installation of platbands on the door frame. They give the door block an aesthetic appearance and hide minor installation flaws.

Completion of the installation of the interior door

First of all, the length of the clypeus is determined. To do this, you can use the size table, or determine yourself by measuring by extreme point box length and width design. To join the architraves, it is necessary to make a side cut at an angle of 45 °. You can use the miter box ( special device, which allows you to cut wood products according to the specified angle parameters) or a jigsaw, having previously measured the required angle with a protractor.

Further, each of the side trim is nailed to the box with two nails (bottom and middle). The upper horizontal platband is measured and sawed with an angle of 45 °. After that, all 3 strips are finally nailed.

Advice. In order for the nails not to peek out of the lining of the casing, they must be drowned. Cut out with a drill, with a diameter corresponding to the size of the nail head, a recess of 1-1.5 mm.

Determining the dimensions of door frames in a newly manufactured opening

And in this case, you can not do without careful measurements and calculations. Correctly installing the door frame means not only getting rid of unnecessary work during installation. The size of the door together with the frame can affect the subsequent arrangement of furniture, the availability of free space in the room, etc.

The sequence of actions in order to correctly determine what the thickness of the door frame should be is as follows.

The dimensions required for installation are determined. Initial data:

• overall dimensions of the door leaf,
• overall dimensions of the door frame,
• the presence or absence of a threshold,
• platband width.

The width of the opening is calculated according to the dependence: Shp \u003d Shd + 2Vk + z / 2, where Shd is the width of the interior door; Vk - the thickness of the door frame; z = 30-40 mm - mounting gap between the interior door and the frame. Such gaps are arranged to improve air exchange, and for the kitchen the gap is taken as the maximum allowable. Given the above, the width of the door frame is set.

From similar considerations, it is possible to determine the required opening height Hp: Hp = Hd + Vk + z / 2 + Npr. Here Hd is the height of the door leaf, Hpr = 10-20 mm is the height of the threshold (if the threshold is not provided, then twice the value of the mounting gap must be substituted into the formula instead of the value z / 2). It should be noted that the presence of a threshold reduces heat loss in rooms such as bathrooms or toilets, and will also help stop the spread of water in case of flooding.

Essential convenience for subsequent installation is provided by the telescopic frame of the interior door. This design option is equipped with special grooves that exclude the use of platbands, therefore, the fastening of the entire product assembly is simplified. Such a design is intended mainly for main walls, where fastening in the standard way is difficult. Fastening and assembly is carried out with your own hands before pasting the wall with wallpaper, and there is no need for extensions.

What is the root problem

The complexity of a number of operations for the assembly of the base frame for hanging the door lies in the specifics of the production of cuts and in the connection of the components. Simple in the eyes of an inexperienced layman, the work is hampered by the presence of a feigned recess on the profiled jambs and crossbars of the future box.

Two schemes for building a box

You can dock them by doing the cuts:

• at an angle of 45º, for which you need a good miter box with an award, but it is much better if you can saw off the excess beautifully with a miter saw;
• at an angle of 90º, the implementation of which will require not only a fine-toothed saw and the accuracy of the performer, but also knowledge of the technological subtleties of essentially not too complicated work.

To perform a strong docking of components, galvanized self-tapping screws or “nailless” spiked joints are used. Spikes can be formed at both of the above angles. However, they are milled mainly perpendicular to the full thickness of the box beam, which must be taken into account when calculating and marking the length and width of the door frame-box.

It doesn't matter if the spikes of the transverse bars of the box will fit into the grooves of the horizontal ones or vice versa. If only the connections were strong and unshakable, for which they are sometimes reinforced with additional nailing with zinc coating.

The shape and dimensions of the structure

The geometric parameters of the base box under construction determine two conditions:

• the width and length of the door leaf itself, for the coverage and support of which this frame is intended;
• purpose and category of the equipped premises.

Therefore, even before the starting stage of work, it is necessary to clearly define where and how to install the door frame the owner of the door and opening in his personal property wants to install.

Depending on the purpose of the premises, the requirements for ventilation or insulation, which the door must provide, change. The entrance door to the bathhouse and the door to the steam room should not let the cold in and release the fertile warm air out. washing department on the contrary, it needs additional ventilation so that the excess vaporization is spontaneously unloaded and the building materials do not rot. Additional ventilation is required in the boiler room, especially if gas equipment is installed there. What can be done:

• If it is necessary to provide a barrier against heat leakage, the construction of the door frame will require four bars, which, after connection, will turn into a closed rectangular frame. The door frame will consist of a feigned and hinged vertical bar, a lintel - an upper crossbar and a threshold connecting two vertical elements in the zone of their junction with the floor surface. A 3 mm technological gap must be maintained between the box beam and the door leaf along the entire perimeter for the free movement of the door.
• If it is required to ensure a natural outflow of steam and polluted air, the box is assembled only from three parts, since instead of a threshold that prevents aerodynamic processes, a gap of 15.0 - 20.0 mm must be made. In such cases, the door base resembles the letter P. The 3 mm gap laid down by the technology passes only along the vertical pillars and the lintel.

Between the threshold and the newly laid floor covering, a gap of 2-3 mm should be left in case of thermal movements.

A closed box, of course, is higher than an open analog, as it is increased due to the thickness of the nut. This nuance must be taken into account in the calculations so that the door leaf does not have to be "shortened", which is especially undesirable if it is covered with veneer.

Important. If you still need to cut on a veneered surface, start on the finished side and work your way to the non-decorative side.

So the veneer will suffer the least, the chips will be insignificant.

Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Now it is worth considering the process of assembling a door frame with a threshold. We will connect the elements of the box, for a change, not at an angle of 45 °, as in the case described above, but at an angle of 90 °. We do this on purpose in the hope that extra knowledge will not hurt anyone.

Construction of a door frame with a threshold

Wooden threshold in the construction of the box

In addition, such a connection of the elements of the door frame is considered more durable. If in the first case the length of the self-tapping screws was limited by the thickness of the corner joint, now these restrictions are removed, the self-tapping screw can enter the body of the bar by 2–3 centimeters. A stronger connection increases the stability of the threshold of the door frame, and significant forces can act on it.

Measurements and preparation

Checking the condition of the doorway, checking the level of the floor in the corners, taking measurements, preparing places for installing hinges and drilling for the screws for fastening the frame is no different from assembling a door frame without a threshold. And then the differences begin.

Step 1. Saw off the top horizontal bar of the box. Its length should be equal to the width of the door leaf plus 6 millimeters for gaps on both sides of the box. There are two such blanks to be made - one is used under the door threshold.

Marking and cutting blanks

Step 2 On the vertical bars of the box, you need to remove the protruding persistent quarter. Keep in mind that when clean, the size of the vertical posts should be equal to the height of the door leaf plus 6 mm for gaps on both sides. In addition, the left and right vertical posts of the door frame must take into account the difference in floor height at the corners of the doorway. We have already described all technological operations in the first example, there is no point in repeating.

To remove a quarter, attach a horizontal part to the end of the vertical post of the box and mark its width. Take measurements with maximum accuracy, do not allow gaps to appear in the connection. No matter how you close them up later, a real master will always see flaws. Carefully file the protruding quarter along the marked line, the depth of the cut should be equal to the height of the quarter. Saw only with a hacksaw with fine teeth, the tool, as always, must be in proper condition.

Removing a quarter box

Sawing a quarter

Step 3 Remove a quarter from the end of the vertical bars with a chisel. Do your work very carefully. The plane of the bar after removal should be perfectly flat across the entire width. While working, hold the chisel correctly. It has a bottom flat part, and the top is sharpened at an angle. The upper plane must always be visible, otherwise the chisel will spontaneously crash into the tree, a flat surface will not work. This rule applies to all cases of working with a chisel. Do the same work on all sides of the door frame.

Step 4 Lay the parts on a flat surface and connect the top of the door frame first. Before screwing in, you must first drill holes in the parts with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. This will eliminate the possibility of cracking or the appearance of a gap between the parts during connection.

Assembling the top of the box

Corner Assembly Diagram

Step 5 We advise you to check the conformity of its dimensions and the correct location before assembling the threshold. To do this, carefully place the assembled box frame of two vertical and one horizontal elements on a flat area and put the door leaf in place. Mark the exact position of the hinges on the leaf, check all the gaps around the perimeter of the door frame and leaf. While there is no threshold, the vertical posts can be moved a little. Check the distances again, check the correct manufacture of the threshold and, if necessary, correct the mistakes made, in this position you have the opportunity to slightly correct the dimensions.

Door frame installation - photo

Classic door threshold

Video - Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Mounting the box in the doorway

In order to initially “keep” the door frame in the opening, you will need hanging strips that are used during installation metal frame for plasterboard walls. The order of installation of the box will be as follows:

1. Hanging planks are attached to the wooden profile bars from the side adjacent to the wall with self-tapping screws so that their mustaches go on both sides of the wall by 5-7 cm. 2-3 such bars will be enough for vertical bars, 1-2 for horizontal ones.

The box is installed in the opening and fixed to these strips. The mustache is attached to the wall on both sides with anchors or self-tapping screws with dowels.
Below, in the absence of a lower bar, it will be necessary to install a spacer bar equal in width to the upper bar.

Wooden wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between the frame and the doorway to stiffen the structure. At the same time, it is constantly necessary to control the level of strict horizontality and verticality of the bars.

Along the perimeter of the box, several holes are drilled at an equal distance for anchor bolts to securely fix the box. It will need to be deepened to the width of the cap, after which the hole can be sealed with a primer or special wood putty.

The door leaf is hung, the gaps between the frame and the wall are filled with mounting foam.

Platbands are installed, fastening them with furniture nails, after which the joints are covered with wax mastic.

Right mounted box will allow the door to open and close easily, without noise and extraneous sounds. We hope our tips will help you to install the door frame yourself quickly and efficiently.

For further steps when installing an interior door, read the following review.

How to properly assemble a box for an interior door yourself

The door frame is mounted in the entrance opening of the wall and is part of the door structure, on which the leaf is hung with the help of hinges, which serves as an obstacle to entering the room or exiting it. The box is made of MDF, chipboard or wooden beam 75-85mm thick. With a wall thickness of more than 85 mm, extension strips are used, which are installed in special grooves of the beams. The door frame has a cutout 1/4 deep equal to the thickness of the leaf.

For the installation of hinges in the box, material samples are made by an amount equal to the thickness of the hinged sash. This is necessary for a snug fit of the door leaf to the jambs of the box. Butterfly door hinges are installed without a tie-in.

The door frame is a frame structure. Its vertical components are called jambs, one of which is looped, the other is feigned. The hinge bar bears the main load of the door leaf. The horizontal upper box jumper is called the "lintel", and the lower one is called the "threshold". The threshold in the box is not obligatory element. It is installed if necessary to eliminate drafts, blocking the gap under the door leaf. Often doors with thresholds are installed to keep spilled water from entering adjacent rooms. The gap between the floor and the threshold hides the thickness of the floor covering. Therefore, the assembly of the door frame with the threshold is carried out before laying linoleum, laminate and other materials used to finish the floor.

Requirements for a door frame

Door frame size chart.

In order for the box to perform its functions, several conditions must be taken into account when choosing or manufacturing it. First of all, the door frame must correspond to the size of the doorway - be 20-30 mm smaller than the size of the opening in all directions. The side racks of the box must be strictly vertical, and the upper crossbar must be strictly horizontal. The thickness (width in the transverse direction) of the box must be chosen so that the casing rests on its side face and the wall without distortion. The thickness can be adjusted by adding.

The interior door (its box) usually has a height of 207 cm and a width of 80 cm. In bathrooms and bathrooms, the opening width is most often 70 cm.

The door frame must have sufficient mechanical strength to hold the leaf without the slightest deformation. In interior boxes installed in the bathroom and bathroom, it is desirable to install thresholds (height above the floor is about 2 cm), which play the role of some kind of sealing of the room. In the kitchen, on the contrary, the threshold is undesirable, and the door leaf has a gap of up to 20 mm at the bottom for ventilation.

Introduction

In this article I will tell you how the door frame is assembled, namely how to saw down and assemble the door frame in two different versions:

• Washed down boxes at 45°
• I washed down the boxes at 90 °.

Assembling the door frame

Door frame with seal

box with seal

Door frame without seal

An interior door consists of a door leaf, hinges, a mortise lock or latch, and a door frame. As a rule, a door frame, for doors of the middle price class, is supplied in the form of a do-it-yourself “constructor”, that is, unassembled. The box consists of three profiled wooden beams covered with veneer or film to match the color of the door leaf. The length of the vertical beams is 2100-2200 mm; the length of the horizontal beam is 1000-1100 mm. Door frames differ from each manufacturer in their readiness for installation.

Door frame with factory cut 45 degrees.

For some manufacturers, door frames are already sawn and cut at an angle of 45 °, just the size of the door leaf and fully prepared for assembly. But most of the boxes are delivered unprepared. They need to be prepared.

Consider two options for assembling the door frame

Option 1. Washed down and assembled the box at an angle of 45 °

Washed down boxes at 45 degrees

Correct docking of the door frame in the corners

Washed down boxes on a stool

Door frame ready to assemble

• Take two future vertical bars of the box. With a blade size of 2000 mm and a finishing flooring at 30 mm, the length of the short side of the beam should be -2000 + 30 + the gap between the canvas and the finishing floor: 10-15 mm = 2040-2045 mm.
• Make a mark on the inside of the Box Bars for the desired length of the canvas.
• Cut off the excess at an angle. The sawing angle of the timber should be 135° on the inside or -45° on the outside. The length of both vertical Beams of the box must be the same.
• Do the same procedure with a horizontal short beam. The only difference is that you will have to saw off from two sides. Be careful with sizes. The main thing in all carpentry work: Measure seven times, cut once.

When marking, do not forget that the gap between the canvas and the box itself should be 3 mm.

Option 2: Assemble the box at a 90° angle

90° box assembly

Type of door frame for direct connection

90 degree door frame connection

Preparing for Direct Box Connection

With this assembly option, in the vertical racks of the future box, the so-called box porch is removed by the thickness of the vertical bar. See drawing.

Assembling the door frame step by step

Assembling the door frame

Collecting a door frame with a gash

After preparing the box, we proceed to assemble it.

Place the prepared box pieces on the floor. Connect the corner joints of the box with self-tapping screws, two self-tapping screws in each corner. In door frames sawn at 90 °, the screws are screwed in at a right angle (photo above left). In door frames sawn at 45°, the screws are screwed in at an angle of 45° (photo above right). The box is almost complete.

In order to keep the vertical posts parallel and match the distance between them according to the size of the door leaf, lay the door leaf on the “almost assembled” frame, as it will stand in the opening. Fix the gap between the canvas and the box by inserting identical pieces of hardboard or wedges into the gap.

Fixing the canvas in the box for its proper assembly

Now the box needs to be fixed in this position. You can do this in several ways.

Ways to fix the door frame, in the desired position, before installation

Method 1. Fix the door frame with not thick rails. Nail the slats perpendicular to the uprights, with thin nails at the very edge of the vertical uprights. There should be two rails: in the middle and at the bottom.

Mounting bracket for box assembly

Method 2. Strengthen the joints of the box beams of the future box. Add wide and rigid power corners with holes for fastening to the screws. Screw the power corners, strictly checking the perpendicularity of both vertical and horizontal Beams. But I advise adding another fixing rail to the bottom of the box.

The assembly of the door frame is over, remove the canvas from the box. The assembled box is ready for installation.

Do-it-yourself door frame - a step-by-step assembly and installation process

IN full set The door unit includes a leaf, a box and hinges. It can be difficult to purchase a ready-made assembly, so there is nothing left but to make a door frame with your own hands from a profiled beam or entrust this task to specialists. The box, most often, has to be selected separately, and it is not a construction ready for installation, but several elements that need to be adjusted in accordance with the size of the opening, make the necessary cuts and assemble. The door frame is not so easy to assemble with your own hands, so in addition to the tool, it would be nice to have at least a little carpentry skill.

door frame material

The box serves not only as a frame for the door leaf, but also as a supporting base. The strength of the entire structure and its durability depend on the quality of the material and installation of the product. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the door and the material of the leaf itself. metal-plastic and metal doors usually supplied in a complete set, so we will consider only those cases when the manufacture of the door frame has to be done independently. As a rule, in this case we are talking about two types of material: wood and MDF.

• Natural wood has different densities and is sorted into soft and hard. The cheapest and most popular product is pine, but when it comes to installing entrance doors, you should focus on a harder and more expensive type of wood, such as oak. It will provide durability, strength and reliability of the structure.
• MDF is used exclusively for interior doors. If you have to assemble a box from this material, you should treat all cut edges with nitro-lacquer to provide protection from moisture.

Complete set and standard sizes

The box for the door consists of several strips: two side, top and bottom, if the design provides for a threshold. If the depth of the doorway exceeds the corresponding parameters of the beam, your kit must be supplemented with extensions that will increase the depth of the box.

Standard sizes of door blocks vary in width and height. The correspondence between the parameters of the door leaf, block and opening is indicated in the table.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly is carried out taking into account the following points:

• Between the inside of the box and the door leaf along the entire perimeter there must be a technological gap, 3 mm wide.
• The gap between the wall and the top of the box must be at least 20 mm.
• The gap between the side planks and the wall is 10 mm from each side. When installing on mounting foam, it is necessary to increase the gap to at least 20 mm.
• The gap between the lower part of the sash and the box or floor depends on the material and the installation location of the structure. For dry rooms, these parameters can vary within 5-15 mm, for wet rooms, in order to ensure ventilation, - 50 mm.

Options for connecting structural elements

The main difficulty in assembling door frames is the process of connecting individual elements. Docking horizontal and vertical strips of the product can be done in two ways:

1. By means of washed down at an angle of 45 degrees. This process is best done with a miter saw, but in its absence, a miter box will do.
2. At a right angle of 90 degrees. To cut the workpiece, you will need a saw with fine teeth.

The joining of the planks is carried out by means of spike joints or galvanized self-tapping screws. The figure shows options for spike connections, which clearly show how to assemble the door frame yourself in order to ensure high strength connections.

When calculating the parameters of the length and width of the profile rails, it must be taken into account that the length of the spike must be equal to the thickness of the box beam. Studded connection provides sufficient strength finished construction, but if desired, additional reinforcement of the joints with zinc-coated nails can be made.

Door frame assembly process

Consider how to properly assemble the door frame . As a starting material, we need a profiled beam made of natural wood or MDF.

The box is assembled in the following order:

Step by step installation process

To fix the assembled frame in the opening and put the doors with your own hands, you must perform the following steps:

Tip: Before foaming, it is necessary to clean the surface of dust and moisten with water from a spray bottle. These measures can significantly improve adhesion.

Another important condition, so as not to disturb the geometry of the frame during installation, is the use of spacer wedges that correspond to the width of the box and are inserted across.

The final stage of installing the box and door - decoration platband openings.

How to assemble a door frame

In the last article, we figured out how to cut holes for installation. door handle and latches. It's time to deal with the assembly of the door frame.

door frame consists of two lateral vertical elements and one upper horizontal element connecting the first two. Less often, the lower horizontal element is also used as a threshold, but this is rather an exception to the generally accepted rules.

How to properly cut the ends of the door frame

One of the rules of "good form" is filing box joints and platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. The highest quality cut is made with a miter saw. If you do not have the opportunity to use this tool, you can use a miter box and a special hacksaw for an ultra-clean cut with a “pass” or “spike”. I highly recommend to start practicing on ordinary bars and “fill your hand”.

First washed down side elements of the box. Do not immediately cut the racks to length. I'll explain why. If you make the wrong 45-degree top cut, you will no longer have the opportunity to correct the mistake by cutting off again, because the rack is already shortened, and there will simply be nowhere to make it even shorter. First, file down the most difficult, that is, the upper corner joints and check the correctness of the washed down with a square. The angle should be clear, without deviations, and the cutting plane should be perfectly even. With a deviation of even a couple of degrees, when assembling the box, you will not be able to achieve an angle of 90 degrees at the joints, which is a prerequisite for quality work.

Having finished with washing down the racks, we move on to transverse element of the box. Here you also need to be very careful. After all, the second end will need to be cut not only at an angle, but also along the length, so that the necessary gaps remain between the door leaf and the side posts of the box. The length of the inner part facing the door leaf should be 8 mm. more than the width of the door leaf . If the width of the door leaf is 60 cm, then the length will be 60.8 cm. Make an accurate markup and cut.

Now you need to cut the side racks to length. There is a small nuance here that should not be overlooked. Not only do we need a gap above the top of the door leaf, we need a gap at the bottom of about 10 mm. But the floor on which the box will be installed may not be perfectly flat, or “off level”. In this case, if we cut off the side posts of the same length, then the door frame will warp during installation, because one post will be higher than the other.

To avoid this, it is necessary to check the floor plane in the doorway according to the level. It is most convenient to use a laser level here, but you can also successfully see the difference with an ordinary rack level. It is only necessary that the level itself fit in the width of the doorway. If the level is short, then do the following simple operation. Cut an even bar of the required length, and put a level on it, thereby increasing its length.

So let's say for example that you found a difference in floor height at the edges of a doorway of 6mm. How to be further? The rack, which will rest on a low place, needs to be made longer by these same 6 mm. We do the calculation in this way. Side racks should be 13 mm. exceed the length of the door leaf, and equal to 2.013 meters, which includes the length of the leaf (2 meters), the gap above the leaf (3 mm.) And the gap below it (10 mm.). Let's add a difference of 6 mm to the rack resting on a low place. and get 2.018 meters. If the floor is even and clearly level, then the racks should be the same length (2.013 meters).

Now that all the elements of the box are sawn down, it would be possible to start the assembly, but first you should mark the places for the hinges on the door leaf and the box.

Inserting and hanging hinges for a door frame

I’ll immediately draw your attention to the fact that without a professional tool and experience, you are unlikely to be able to install high-quality mortise hinges. The insert is made using a manual milling machine, and not with a chisel and a hammer, as many people think and are mistaken.

Therefore, I recommend buying overhead hinges, as in the photo. They do not require tie-in, and their installation does not take much time and effort. The overhead loop consists of two parts entering one into the other and forming one plane. The smaller inner part is attached to the door leaf, and the larger one to the box post.

Mark on the end of the door leaf 20 cm from each edge. Examine the canvas carefully and decide in which direction the door will open. Here it is important not to make a mistake and correctly position the loops. The hinge hinges must face the direction the door opens.

Position the hinge at the end until the hinges stop. Do not strongly press the hinge to the edge of the canvas. The loop should rotate freely on hinges, without touching the canvas. If, when opening the hinge, you notice that the hinge scrapes along the canvas, leave a small gap of 1mm.

Put a mark in one of the hinge holes and drill a hole slightly thinner than the self-tapping screw that comes with the hinges. No need to drill all four holes at once. You can make a mistake in the markup, and the loop will be taken to the side. After screwing in one self-tapping screw, and making sure that the loop has not moved out and sits evenly, drill the remaining holes and secure it. Do the same with the second loop.

Now fasten the counterpart of the loop to the rack of the box. For convenience, it is better to put the door leaf on the floor and place the rack of the box next to it. In order for the hinges to lie flat on the box, the door needs to be slightly raised by adjusting the height with wedges. Leaning the rack of the box against the end, make sure that it protrudes slightly above the canvas along the length, which after assembly will allow the necessary gap of 3 mm to form. Then drill holes to secure the hinge. Now you don’t need to completely screw the hinges yet, because you still need to assemble the box, and it’s more convenient to do it without a canvas.

Twisting or assembling the door frame

Lift the door leaf off the floor and set it aside to make room for the door frame. It is also more convenient to roll the box on the floor, as you will soon see for yourself. To get started, the following preparations are required. Take the upper part of the box and in the plane of the cut, perpendicular to it, drill two holes on each side for self-tapping screws, about a centimeter from the edges, as in the photo. In the racks of the box, make one hole in the middle, also perpendicular to the plane.

Now, correctly positioned box elements, alternately, continue drilling to the adjoining part, then twist them with self-tapping screws. No need to look for any special screws. Any will do, for example, those that are used to fix drywall to metal profiles. The most important condition here is a clear junction of sawn ends.

To make the parts fit snugly together, put plywood under them. If you have a very flat floor, then you can do without it. I repeat that the most important thing here is to keep the plane from slipping at the moment of twisting. If you have strong brushes, then you can avoid skew by simply holding the box with one hand while you tighten the screw with the other.

How to assemble a door frame with your own hands

Doors are an important part of any room, as they provide protection against unwanted penetration, keep heat and sound insulation. In order for the design to cope well with its functions and last longer, you need to know how to assemble the door frame if it is not possible to turn to professionals for help.

Components of a door frame

In order to understand exactly how the door frame of interior doors is assembled, it is necessary to study its structure and components. These include:

• lintel - a "ceiling" bar located on top of the structure;
• loop bar - side part, loops cut into it;
• the feigned part - opposite to the loop, closes with the door when closing, the reciprocal side of the lock is installed in it;
• threshold - a bar located below.

Required Tool

In order for the assembly of the door frame to be quick with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools that will be needed during the work. In addition to the components of the box, the following devices are needed:

• a simple pencil, tape measure, square and level;
• electric jigsaw or circular saw;
• perforator;
• drill or drill;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• screws, mounting foam, fasteners;
• necessary fittings.

How to measure

To assemble a high-quality construction, it is important to take measurements correctly, otherwise, the door will not fit in the box. There are several rules for taking measurements at home:

1. First of all, the doorway is measured, the external parameters of the box should exceed it by 70 mm. As for the internal parameters, a gap of 3 mm around the perimeter must be maintained between the door leaf and the edge of the frame.
2. For the gap located below, there is a separate rule, its height can be from 10 to 15 mm. This is necessary to ensure air circulation in the room, which is especially important for closed rooms, like a bathroom or pantry. When installing compartment doors, it must be taken into account that profiles will be installed.
3. Often, during the construction of baths, the owners do not make a large gap at the bottom of the door, this is acceptable, but, in this case, it is necessary to carefully measure the threshold of the door with a level in the corners.

These parameters are mandatory, if a discrepancy is found, the doorway must be expanded or reduced. It is easier to work with artificial openings made of drywall.

Assembly methods

The installation guide for the door frame depends on how it is assembled. Designs come with or without a threshold and with different nuances of fixing parts.

How to assemble a door frame at 45° and without a threshold

Usually, MDF products are placed according to this scheme. Detailed instructions for making a box in this way:

1. To eliminate irregularities, it is necessary to trim the box blanks.
2. The hinged and feigned beams are sawn in the upper part, at 45 degrees inward. For work, it is better to use tools with fine teeth or a hacksaw for metal, this will help to avoid damaging the finish. When working with products made of eco-veneer or laminated MDF, it is best to saw from the wrong side so that possible cracks remain on it.
3. After processing the side parts of the box, you can proceed to sawing the lintel. It is sawn from both sides at 45 degrees inward. It is important to carefully measure everything so that the assembled parts form a right angle. Do not forget that a gap of 3 mm must be observed. Measurements can be made both with a tape measure, and by attaching a beam directly to the doorway, making notes with a pencil.
4. Next, you need to adjust the hinged and feigned timber in height, from the bottom, to the beginning of the sawn corner. In the absence of a threshold, it is enough to add two gaps to the height of the door, 3 mm + 10-15 mm. After hanging, the door must close sufficiently tightly, without obstacles to opening, and not touch the floor.
5. Once all the components are sawn down, you need to move on to assembling the parts. It is easier to work by laying them on the floor. For safety, it is better to use a drill with a small diameter. Self-tapping screws must be for wood, they are also screwed at an angle of 45 degrees. When fastening the parts, they must be pressed tightly against each other, as the screws stretch the parts.
6. After assembly, the structure must be tried on in the doorway, if the calculations are accurate, it will fit into it without any problems.

The measurements must be checked several times. If a mistake is made and the door frame is small for the canvas, you will have to purchase new material.

How to assemble a door frame with docking 90

The easiest assembly option that a beginner can handle is also often used when working with wood fiber materials. How to assemble with a docking of 90 degrees in stages:

1. The side beams are adjusted to the height of the doorway, taking into account all the gaps. They will reach the very top of the doorway.
2. The upper part is fixed between the hinged and feigned, so it must be shortened by as much as the width of both side beams. After connection, the three parts should fit snugly into the opening in width.
3. After preparing the components, you can proceed to the assembly. Holes for self-tapping screws are made in advance to avoid wood cracks, they should enter from the sides, at an angle of 90 degrees.

Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Structures equipped with thresholds are usually installed at the entrance to houses, as they retain heat and make the box more durable. Even though a new part is added, assembling the parts is not difficult. The first steps are identical to those performed during the installation of boxes without a threshold. The lintel and side rails can be installed at angles of 45 and 90 degrees. The threshold is always set at a right angle. Step-by-step instructions for assembling a box with a threshold:

1. The threshold beam must be cut exactly at a right angle, observing the width, from one side part to the second, you can also focus on the formula: door width + 6 mm gap. To correctly determine the height of the threshold, it is necessary to put the structure in the door leaf.
2. Next, you need to carefully cut down the stubborn quarter on the feigned and hinged timber, to the height of the lower board, for tight fastening of the threshold. Measurements must be accurately taken, otherwise you can simply spoil the material.
3. Once the components are prepared, you can proceed to their connection, also tightening tightly so that the parts do not spread. When working with entrance doors, it is better to use galvanized self-tapping screws.

Door frame pin connection

A less common way of connecting the parts of the box can be done without the use of self-tapping screws, however, it is best to use galvanized nails or a special mounting adhesive to ensure strength.

The principle of this method is that at the junction of the components, it does not matter whether they are placed at a right angle or at 45 degrees, spiked joints are cut out. One of the parts has the connection itself (thorns), and the second has grooves machined for it, into which it is tightly inserted.

Installing a box in a doorway

This step is best done with a helper, as the door unit can be heavy, especially if the door is used with a slab core, which can be difficult to work with. The structure is mounted in the doorway in several stages:

1. The structure is inserted into the opening and fixed in it with wedges. Then, its position is completely aligned so that it stands perfectly relative to the horizontal and vertical axes. Once the exact position is determined, holes are drilled in the opening itself and the box for dowels.
2. When the structure is firmly fixed in the opening, you can begin to prepare the door for suspension. First of all, loops are screwed to it, and their second part is fixed on the loop bar. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the height, since the door will not be located evenly. If everything is done correctly, after you hang the canvas, all gaps will be observed.
3. Then, the box is fixed, this can be done with the help of mounting foam, it is also used to fill the gaps allowed between the beam and the opening.
4. As soon as the work is completed, you can proceed to the installation of telescopic or simple platbands, cashiers and other fittings.

Errors when installing and assembling the door frame

Not everyone can competently install and install the door block, without making mistakes. The most common of them:

1. Incorrectly selected tools and self-tapping screws, which can damage materials or make the structure fragile. For example, doors made of fiberboard have a fibrous structure and a different density, unlike PVC, which means that different fasteners must be used.
2. Insufficient vertical alignment of the door may cause the door to open or close on its own.
3. Carelessness when observing the direction of door opening.
4. When working with mounting foam, it is important to consider that it tends to expand; if too much is applied, the box may bend.

Do not be afraid to ask questions to experienced installers, only an experienced installer will be able to give right advice and avoid potential errors. If the actions are performed incorrectly, you have to purchase new material, which is not profitable with everything and takes a lot of time.

When starting the installation of an interior structure, prepare the materials and tools required for this. This will reduce the duration of work and improve their quality. It is advisable to cut off in advance all the elements of the box of the interior structure in advance, having prepared a beam of suitable length. At the same time, remember that the box, like the door leaf, can be made of various materials. Before choosing timber, take a look at all the options available to decide which one is best.

Materials used in the manufacture of boxes

In order for the interior door to serve for a long time, you need to properly install and select the appropriate material for the manufacture of all structural elements. Usually, for the manufacture of an interior door frame, it is used:

• Fiberboard. Distinguished by a presentable appearance, such material does not always become an ideal option for making a box due to its low strength. It is highly likely that during operation the rack will begin to bend under the action of applied loads. Especially if the weight of the door leaf is significant. If you use this material, please refrain from installing a door made of natural wood or MDF;
• Untreated wood. A material close in cost to fiberboard, however, in this case, dry profiled timber, which is highly durable, is used to make the box. If there is a choice, instead of fiberboard, it is better to purchase raw timber. Considering the condition of the surface of the assembled box, take care of the materials for processing the timber in advance. It is also advisable to purchase a composition that will prevent rotting and warping of the door material under the influence of moisture;
• Laminated wood. In this case, the surface of the bar for the manufacture of the box is initially covered with a layer of decorative paper. The service life of the box and the interior system as a whole largely depends on the characteristics of the latter. If the thickness of the laminated layer is insufficient, characteristic scratches and abrasions will soon appear on the surface of the timber, which will worsen the appearance of the box. Sometimes they appear already in the process of installing the door.

The choice of material that is used to make the box depends on where the particular interior door will stand. When it comes to a bedroom or an office, you can not worry and feel free to purchase fiberboard if its characteristics and appearance suit you. For other rooms it is recommended to purchase wooden beam, which is better for making door frame rack.

Types of door panels

Doors on the market are presented in a wide range, which creates certain difficulties in choosing suitable option. When choosing, it is important to know what technology was used in the production of the canvas, since the installation order depends on this. Typically, interior doors are made of wood, MDF and fiberboard. There are also combined options.

MDF door

The door made of fiberboard has frame structure. In the process of its manufacture, laminated fiberboard sheets are attached to the natural wood frame. This door is affordable. It does not create problems during the installation process, which can be done on its own. That is why the preference for fiberboard products is given by those people who decide to install the door structure on their own.

For those who are not going to change the door in the next 10-15 years, it is recommended to refuse to buy a fiberboard canvas. Such a canvas can be easily damaged during installation or subsequent operation. Even a careful attitude does not guarantee that after a couple of years the door will not lose its presentable appearance. In addition, fiberboard is afraid of moisture.

MDF door

The best option in terms of price-quality ratio. MDF products are durable, not afraid of moisture, and therefore are installed in rooms with high humidity. Provide an acceptable level of sound insulation. Installation of MDF doors can also be done by hand. Wherein installed design will definitely last longer than a fiberboard door.

wooden door

door out natural material has undeniable advantages in terms of appearance and performance. However high price such products forces buyers to pay attention to cheaper products. In addition, there are certain requirements for the installation process. Given that the solid wood door is heavy, it is attached to strong hinges.

Assembly and installation of the box

When choosing a beam for interior doors, from which the rack and other elements of the box will be made, make sure that its moisture content corresponds regulatory requirements. Otherwise, some difficulties may arise during the operation of the interior door. After a while, the canvas will definitely begin to jam, and then it will stop opening altogether.

Web size control

Before buying, make sure that the geometry of the canvas is correct. Even if during visual inspection there is a feeling that all sides are equal, check this with a tape measure. Sometimes manufacturers offer canvases in which the opposite sides differ by only 2 mm.

It would seem that the difference is relatively small, but during installation it is very difficult to eliminate such an error. Especially if a budget model of an interior door is purchased. In such a situation, you will have to figure out how to ensure a uniform gap around the entire perimeter of the canvas. Sometimes the task may turn out to be impossible, and you will either have to hang the door in the form it is, or buy a new one.

Before installing the canvas in the box, prepare a landing hole for the lock. Work very carefully so as not to damage decorative coating interior door. If this still happened, it is worth trying to repair the canvas. Otherwise, you will have to buy a new one.

An example of calculating the dimensions of the box elements

For example, let's take a door with a standard leaf 2 m high and 80 cm wide. Such products are mounted in most living rooms and offices. To install it, first a box is assembled from a bar of a suitable size. The beam is taken slightly longer than the height and width of the doorway. When ordering moldings, carefully calculate the required quantity. A post formed from two elements will have lower strength characteristics compared to a product made from a solid bar.

In order for the rack to be installed in a specific doorway, it must first be correctly measured and then cut off. Before fitting the rack to the dimensions of the box, make cuts at the top at a 45° angle. In this place the beam of the box will be connected. The tightness of the fit of the structural elements depends on how smoothly and accurately the saw is made. It is better to do the job with a miter saw. Only professionals can handle a hand saw and a must.

Considering that initially the rack is larger right size, it will have to be cut. When calculating the final length, the size of the upper and lower gap is taken into account. A minimum of 4 mm is left between the upper end of the door and the box. Below - 1 cm, so that the installed interior design can work properly. Both racks must be the same size.

Attention! Adding together the height of the blade and the gaps, you get the internal dimension of the rack. This must be taken into account! In the given example, the internal dimension of the cut timber will be 2.014 m.

When determining the size of the lintel, proceed according to the same principle. To the width of the door leaf, add the gap between the door and the side posts. The latter should be about 4 mm. As a result, the length of the lintel will be 808 mm (it is determined by the inside). To ensure that the lintel fits snugly against the post, make cuts on both sides at an angle of 45 °, carefully controlling the beginning of the cut.

The order of assembly and installation of the door frame

The box is assembled before the installation of the door. Installation requires special equipment and tools. Work is done on the floor. The elements of the box are interconnected by self-tapping screws with a flat press head. If we are talking about a rectangular box, the beam should be at a right angle.

Attention! If MDF is used instead of timber, it is mandatory to drill holes for mounting first. If this is not done, installation will be difficult and the material may burst.

Once the box is assembled, proceed to install it. Given the operating conditions of the door, the box is fixed in the doorway as securely as possible. Otherwise, it is likely that in the event of a sharp slamming of the sash, the interior structure will simply fall out due to improper installation.

The box is fixed at three points, after ensuring its spatial position. The longitudinal beam must be strictly vertical to prevent jamming of the door leaf. For the convenience of fixing the box in the opening, you can use pegs of suitable thickness. Self-tapping screws are twisted in the places where the hinges and the reciprocal part of the lock are installed. Considering that the elements listed above will be located on top, the fasteners will be invisible.

After the box is fixed with self-tapping screws, the gap is foamed, which is necessarily formed during the installation process between the vertical beam and the wall. The foam is poured in several stages, waiting for the complete drying of the previous layer.

After the installation of the box is completed, proceed to the installation of the canvas. Hinges are attached to it in advance, then hanging the door will not take much time. If at this stage the sash jams or the lock does not open / close well, you must immediately correct the mistakes made during the installation process. If this is not done, the door will soon stop working properly, and the installation will have to be repeated again.

To properly assemble the box for the interior door, you should prepare the tool and the right amount of material in advance. The beam must be of a suitable size and have the necessary characteristics. Following the advice of professionals, you will quickly assemble the box, install it in the opening and hang the sash. If everything is done correctly, the interior door will last a long time and will not deform.

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