Round timber house: construction technology. Do-it-yourself log cabin: step-by-step instructions on how to make a log cabin yourself How to build a log cabin from roundwood

The traditional material for the construction of the Russian bath is a solid log. Apart from affordable price, a sawlog (aka round timber) also attracts with another feature: a person with little experience in carpentry can make a log house with his own hands. You will need: the availability of time, the desire to self-study and theoretical training, combined with practice. Hence the purpose of our article - to intelligibly tell how to properly cut down a log sauna with a steam room.

We collect a bath from logs

The first task that needs to be solved in advance is the allocation of a site for the construction of a bath. Find a place near your home, preferably near a body of water or a pool. The recommended location of the building and indents from other objects on the dacha or personal plot shown in the diagram.

The next step is to draw up a layout of the premises, taking into account the allocated area. As a rule, 3 rooms are made in the sauna - a washing room, a steam room and a dressing room, which at the same time serves as a rest room. You can read more about the correct breakdown of the area. Now that the planning is done, let's take a closer look at how to cut and assemble your log cabin.

So, the production of works is divided into the following stages:

Selection of materials and preparation of tools.
The device of the foundation for a log house.
Cutting the first crown and subsequent assembly of the walls.

Lumber selection

It is customary for us to build log houses from coniferous wood - pine, spruce and larch. It is better to lay the latter in the first 2-3 crowns, since it resists moisture well. Freshly cut wood is allowed to mature and dry for 1 month.

Reference. The ideal forest for the construction of a log house is a part of a tree from the root (butt) to the beginning of the crown of a combat pine. There are almost no knots in this area, and the density of the tree is greater than at the top.

To build a reliable and durable log house for a bathhouse with your own hands, select and prepare timber, taking into account our recommendations:

Discard trunks with obvious curvature, cracks or rot.
Do not take too thin or thick round timber. The diameter of the sawlog should be in the range of 20-35 cm (excluding bark).
Try to purchase winter lumber from forestries, as this wood contains more resins that resist decay.
Remove the bark from the logs with a special tool - a scraper, it least affects the tree.
After debarking, let the trunks dry for 3-4 days, otherwise you will have to draw marking lines on a wet surface, which is very inconvenient.

Sawlog diameter decreases from butt to top

When choosing logs, consider one important feature: the diameter of the trunk necessarily decreases from the butt to the top. The technical name of the phenomenon is taper, ideally it should not exceed 8 mm per 1 meter of running round timber.

Advice. It does not matter when the taper exceeds the specified value. Before cutting down the bath, you need to disassemble the logs into pairs with the same indicator, and during construction, lay them according to the butt - top - butt scheme. An experienced carpenter will tell you in detail about this laying technology in his video:

Tool for the job

Experienced craftsmen can deftly and quickly work with an ax, but even they now use power tools, which greatly facilitate the work in the construction of log structures. The optimal set of a carpenter-builder looks like this:

chain saw - electric or gasoline;
ax and hand saw;
wooden and ordinary hammer;
electric planer;
drill;
chisels of various sizes;
measuring instruments - tape measure, ruler, plumb line, square and building level.

To mark the trunks, you will also need a special device shown in the photo - a feature (otherwise - a scriber). To make it, you need to take a thick steel wire, sharpen the ends and bend in the form of a compass.

Foundation laying

Log houses are heavy structures, and therefore it is better for them to pour a strip-type concrete foundation. An exception is a mini-bath 3 x 3 m in size, under which you can make brick or block pillars, and then put the first crown on these cabinets. In other cases, it is necessary to mark the contours of the building on the ground and dig a trench 40-50 cm wide along the perimeter. You need to go deep to a stable layer of soil lying 0.5-1.5 m from the surface (depending on the region).

Seal the bottom of the trench and make a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick. Compact the sand too.
Fabricate and install formwork wooden shields, whose height should be equal to the level of the future basement. To prevent the sides from moving apart, use supports made of timber and boards, as shown in the photo.
Cover the pit along with the formwork with plastic wrap so that the cement milk does not go into the ground when pouring.
From the reinforcement - "corrugated" Ø10-16 mm, tie the frames with cells 100 x 150 mm and place them in the trench. The lower reinforcement belt should be raised above the bottom due to spacers 4-5 cm high.

The pouring is carried out with concrete of a grade not lower than M150, prepared from 3 parts of sand and 5 of the same volumes of crushed stone per 1 measure of Portland cement M400. During the laying process, the concrete mixture is compacted with vibrators, and in their absence, with long steel rods. It will take 4 weeks for the base to harden, the formwork can be removed after 7-9 days.

Advice. In order not to have to chop or longitudinally cut the logs of the first crown and thereby reduce the durability of the structure, make a foundation tape at different levels. How this is implemented in practice, see the following video.

Installation of the first crown

The first step is to protect the wood from soaking and subsequent decay. To do this, lay a waterproofing of two layers of roofing material on the foundation, and treat the trunks with an antiseptic composition. It is also possible to make an additional padding from a bar 50-100 mm thick under the lower tier. Then the most interesting begins - the cutting of the crown crown.

There are several ways to join logs in the corners:

in the upper or lower bowl;
the same, with a hidden spike (tail tail);
in the paw;
using simple rectangular cutouts (the so-called Russian corner).

The simplest cutting of corners

Reference. Russian cutting methods are listed here, in addition to them, Canadian and Norwegian technology is used, but it is more difficult to perform.

Bowl cutout

The connection with a rectangular groove, shown in the photo, is suitable only for the construction of a barn. Due to direct gaps, even if they are caulked, such an angle will turn out to be cold, which is unacceptable for a bath. Docking "in the paw" is more reliable, but is rarely used by modern carpenters because of the complexity. For beginners, we suggest mastering a relatively simple and “warm” option - cutting into the upper bowl with a hidden spike, otherwise - into a flail.

Before assembling the flashing crown, it is necessary to cut the round timber along the entire length in order to increase the contact area with the foundation. The width of the contact spot should be at least 12 cm. To ensure it, lay the log on a concrete tape and mark it with a line resting at one end on the foundation surface.

Drawing a line with a scriber

To speed up the work, make cross cuts with a chain saw every 10-15 cm, then cut the wood along and cut down the excess with an ax. Make a fine selection with an electric planer, or better with a scraper.

Advice. In the center of the beveled side, try to make a hollow up to 5 mm deep for a good seal. How the master does it, you should watch the video:

Now let's look at how to cut the corner of the crown crown:

Lay the trunks in the design position, one on top of the other, and align them horizontally with the help of pads. Mark the contours of the bowl in the upper log with a line, leaning with the second end on the lower one. Its depth is equal to half the diameter of the supporting round timber, which is shown in the diagram.
The maximum height of the hidden longitudinal spike is 5 cm. Also mark it before sawing.
Using a chainsaw, make several transverse cuts, not reaching the marking lines by 3-5 mm.
Cut off the excess wood and clean the edges of the bowl with an ax strictly along the line. Form a spike in the same way, and cut a groove on the counter log.

Important point. During the construction of the log cabin of the bath, the finishing teska is made with an ax or a staple, mechanized processing is used only for the formation of cups and grooves. The fact is that electric planers, grinders and chain saws strongly open wood fibers, where moisture is subsequently absorbed.

When all 4 corners are cut down, the trunks are laid on a foundation with a layer of moss or jute fiber (it is also stuffed into the joints of lumber) and tightly seated in the grooves using a wooden manual rammer. Please note: connection with concrete base is not used, the design is rigidly fixed on the groove-thorn joints and stands confidently due to its decent weight.

Walling

The remaining crowns are mounted on the salary using the same technology - bowls with spikes are cut out at the corners, which cover the logs of the previous tier. After a dense nozzle with a moss lining, an additional connection with wooden dowels is required, they are also dowels.

Note. Traditional technology does not include any of the metal connectors often used by today's builders. Being in the thickness of the tree, cold metal covered with condensate, causing rust and accelerated decay of timber.

Moss is the best interventional insulation for a chopped bath

A few words about how to assemble the second and subsequent log crowns:

The lower part of the trunks is not hemmed evenly, but in the form of a semicircle in order to clearly cover the previous round timber.
When marking, lay the logs in such a way that the centers of all wall elements are on the same vertical.
Do the cutting of cups and grooves with an allowance of 8-10 mm for laying the sealant - wild moss, felt or jute.
After forming the bowls, try on each barrel in place. If it fits with a gap of more than 5 mm, an adjustment will have to be made. The whole process is shown in more detail in the video:

So that in the process of shrinkage and further operation, the chopped bath does not squint from the horizontal movement of the elements, they must be fastened together with dowels. These are rods carved from dry wood with a diameter of 22-30 mm, hammered into vertical holes after laying each crown. Hole drilling step - 0.8-1 m, depth - at least 2 log diameters. In order not to fall into the previous dowels during subsequent drilling and driving, they should be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

Vertical connection of crowns with dowels

When you need to grow a log in length, use one of two connection methods - a root tenon and a dovetail. In the first case, a vertical groove and a spike at the end of the log are made rectangular shape, and in the second - trapezoidal, which is shown in the photo. When joining the elements of the outer walls, a clearance of 8 mm must be provided for the sealing packing.

Splicing with root tenon (left) and dovetail (right)

An important point. After laying the connected trunks into the wall of the log house, the joint must be shingled on both sides.

The log walls of the bath are covered from above with a gable roof. It is easier to assemble it from bars and boards, which is described in detail. Do truss system it is possible from logs, but this process is much more complicated.

Pit of openings

There are 2 ways of edging door and window openings:

Into the deck. In this case, a spike measuring 5 x 5 cm is formed along the perimeter of the opening, on which the casing is subsequently attached.
With a mortgage bar. A groove is cut along the ends of the logs, where a mortgage beam is then installed for mounting the pigtail.

The first option is more expensive and time-consuming - shortening the logs for sawing out the spike must be provided for even at the construction stage of the bath. The casing box is made with an internal groove, which is mounted on the finished crest. Along the perimeter, the pigtail is sealed with the same material that was used for interventional insulation (caulking).

The second method is implemented after the construction of the log house by cutting a groove in the ends of the round timber. Then a mortgage beam is hammered into it, forming the same spike. Further order the installation of the box is repeated, as shown in the diagram.

Conclusion

If, in the process of building a log house with your own hands, you follow the above technology and work without haste, then you will surely get a solid and strong bathhouse that will last for decades. But do not rush to put the building into operation - the log structure needs to stand for at least 1 year to shrink. After that, you can do the caulking of the joints and the internal arrangement of the bath rooms.

Wooden frame has been used in Rus' since time immemorial. And even in our time, despite the fact that new building materials have appeared, wooden house quite popular. Such a house is considered environmentally friendly, and in terms of its strength it is not inferior to stone and brick houses.

For the construction of a log house, coniferous trees are the best suited.

It is quite possible to build a wooden house on your own if you know the installation technology and all the subtleties of assembly. To know how to assemble a log house, you need to make a house project, prepare the wood and choose the right type of foundation.

Log building technology

A log house is a construction of horizontally laid logs that form walls.

Each row of logs along the perimeter is called a crown. The bottom row is the crown.

The structure at the corners is formed by connecting logs with protruding ends. If the house is represented only by external walls, then it is called a four-wall, and if there is a partition inside, then it is a five-wall log house with a T-shaped connection of logs inside.

To build such a house, softwood or hardwood is needed. It is desirable that the trees are freshly cut and in winter time. Such wood contains less moisture. For a log house, it is preferable to choose coniferous wood. The best option there will be a pine.

For the construction of a wooden log house, logs with a diameter of 25-26 cm are used. For areas with a warm climate, logs 22-23 cm in size are suitable. The material must be of high quality: without a wormhole and rot.

The construction of a log house consists of several stages:

Designing a house project. This stage includes the development of drawings, the choice of materials, the type of foundation and all design features future building.
Preparation for work. It includes the construction of the foundation, the preparation of logs.
The erection of the walls of the log house. This is, in fact, the main part of the construction.
Roof arrangement.
Wall finishing and interior finishing work.

To properly assemble a log house, you need to choose a technology. At the moment there are three of them: Russian, Canadian and Norwegian. The first two are based on the use of large rounded logs, and the Norwegian technology is based on logs hewn on both sides. These technologies are distinguished by a different approach to harvesting and stacking wood.

Any technology requires careful preparation of the material: calibration, grinding, selection of logs by diameter.

Under wooden frame Suitable foundation types:

Columnar. Suitable for small houses. Their construction requires careful calculations.
Deep foundation. This is the most expensive foundation. It is used for the construction of bulky buildings with a basement and a garage.
Shallow. It is considered the best for wooden house. This base is suitable for any soil, and it is also reliable and economical.

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How to properly assemble a log house

The scheme of fastening logs.

First you need to remove the bark from the felled trees and cut logs of the same length, equal to the length of the walls plus 100 cm of allowance. If there are no identical long logs, then they can be obtained by splicing short ones using the “comb-groove” method. But the first crown of the log house must necessarily consist of a solid high-quality material. Logs intended for internal works must be cut on both sides.

There are two ways to collect:

using wooden dowels;
with nails.

The first method is preferable, since the area of contact between the dowel and the logs is larger, which means that the structure will be securely fastened.

The dowels are connected in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between which should be no more than 2 m.

In the case of assembly with nails, it is necessary to correctly calculate the length of the nails. If the wall thickness is 100 mm, then the length of the nail must be at least 250 mm. The head of the nail is deeply recessed into the wood so that the material does not shrink.

When the foundation is dry, its surface is covered with a waterproofing material: roofing material. Next, you can lay the first crown of the thickest logs. For strength - transverse bars-laying. The lower crown and gaskets should be carefully covered with an antiseptic and tar.

The gaps between the lower salary and the foundation are closed with bricks and concrete mortar on a previously laid roofing material.

The connection of logs at the corners is most often carried out by the "cup" method or the "paw" method. The first method involves tying at the corners with an allowance of logs, and "in the paw" - without an allowance. The cup method is for round logs. Claw cutting is used for both round and hewn logs. But this method is more economical, as there is no excess wood left at the corners.

During assembly, it is necessary to control the evenness of the corners and the verticality of the walls.

The uppermost crown of the log house - Mauerlat, serves as a support for the roof. The upper crown is made of strong and high-quality logs.

Leave appropriate openings for doors and windows. But it is possible to cut these openings even after the construction of the log house. This method is preferred, since during the construction of the structure, a uniform load on the foundation is ensured. This means that the house will not warp.

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Wall finishing and interior work

After the construction of the log house, its walls should be caulked with moss, felt or tow. You can use artificial materials based on natural rubber. These materials hermetically close the gaps between the logs, due to which the walls acquire a monolithic waterproofing structure.

Caulk vertical surfaces start from the bottom with a hammer and caulk. This procedure should be done around the perimeter. This means that if you caulk individual walls, the structure may warp. When the processing of the outer walls is completed, they proceed to caulk the inner surfaces.

Next, the wood must be covered with antiseptic compounds. Treatment with fire-fighting substances is mandatory in those places where the stove, fireplace and in the chimney area will be installed. These procedures will significantly extend the life of the house.

Cutting in the "oblo" bowl down.

The final stage of the assembly of the log house will be its shelter waterproofing materials. This procedure is carried out for six months, so that the house gives a natural shrinkage.

When the walls are ready, they proceed to the installation of the roof and interior decoration of the room.

Usually high-quality wood is sanded and simply varnished. To do this, you can use both a transparent and colored coating.

If you still want modern design interior, then the inner walls can be sheathed wooden clapboard or drywall. But before that, you should take care of the installation of electrical wires. Electrical wires must be insulated: with copper conductors in metal tubes.

Wooden log cabins do not need additional insulation at all, so laying foam between the walls and facing material need not. If necessary, mineral wool can be used for insulation.

The floors in the log house are made of boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. They are tightly stacked to each other, fixed, polished and processed according to the example of walls. You can varnish the floor, you can lay a laminate.

Tool Removal of bark Laying out the log Initial marking Cutting down the share Cutting the planes of the shares Adjusting the planes of the shares Logging grooves

Cutting down a log house yourself is quite real. Now we will find out all the details and see, well, the ax is in your hands.

You will not find such material on the Internet anywhere else, since everywhere you can see the felling of a log house from first-class logs, but it is not easy for an inexperienced person to get first-class round timber, so we will cut from what God sent, not at the expense of quality.

At that time, God sent a forest felled by a hurricane, and there is no question of the first grade even close. Nevertheless, we will cut down an excellent log cabin for a bath from it.

Get the first grade - excellent, make your job easier.

Tool

For the manufacture of a log house, you will need the following tool:

2. Hacksaw or chainsaw

3. Scherhebel planer or electric planer

4. Level 40 - 60 cm.

5. Metal ruler 40 - 60 cm.

6. Building cord-malka.

7. Template.

About the template in more detail, as it has to be done. Template for paw Canadian (dovetail). Here he is:

Template dimensions

A - width, taken relative to the top (thin) part of the thinnest log. The width of the template is taken already this part by 4 centimeters. For example, if the thickness of the log is 20 cm, then the width of the template is 16 cm.

B - 3/4 of A

C and D - 2/4 of A

E - 1/4 of A

Bark removal

First of all, we remove the bark from the logs. From all. So that the log under the bark does not rot, and in warm weather, the bark beetle would not become active under it.

This operation is done with a shovel, sharpened like this:

With the bark removed, the logs can lie for a very long time, but if the expected storage period exceeds six months, it is necessary to ensure ventilation, and cover the foot from above with roofing material, or something similar.

Log layout

Work begins with the laying out of the log. To do this, two stands are made with recesses, on which the log is given the position necessary for marking.

If the material is of the first grade, without noticeable bends, the log is laid out along the annual rings so that the part where the annual rings are thinner will later turn out from the outside of the log house.

If the material is not of the first grade, then the log is laid out in accordance with the existing bends, which must be turned either up or to the outside. Or both. Just not down and in.

Be careful. At first glance, the log may seem very straight, but a look along it will immediately determine the curvature.

When laying out, we also determine the direction of laying the log in the log house relative to the previous one. The butt part fits on the crown, and vice versa.

Initial markup

The logs are selected as follows: the first crown is the thickest, then thinner and thinner towards the middle. from the 7th ring thicker again, and the last clamping ring is thick.

For marking, the log is trimmed. There are no special devices for this - it is done by eye, but the smoother the trimming is done, the less will be the fit and the likelihood of cracks in the corners.

Trimming is done exactly in size, the same for all logs of the wall.

After trimming according to the level, we draw a horizontal line along the widest part of the end of the log (in the first grade this is the middle), mark its center, and take the width of the template from the center.

We draw two lines along the width of the template, along the vertical level, thereby starting the outline of the cheeks of the paw.

Then, along these lines, we stretch the thread between the ends of the log, and along it we draw the longitudinal part of the cheeks, 25–30 cm long. Only all are the same.

As a result, at the ends of the log you will get the following markup:

Paw cutting

By marking, we cut out the cheeks of the paw.

We adjust the width of the cheeks exactly according to the width of the template so that it fits snugly, but without tension. While the hand is not full, it is better to make them with a small margin, and then hone with an ax to the desired size.

A chainsaw for cutting cheeks is used when there are knots on them for years. If there are no knots, then the entire segment is cut down with an ax.

We proceed to the manufacture of the seat of the paw. The first two logs have one seat - the top one.

We put a template on the paw in the middle and draw along the upper border. The narrow part of the template is on the outside of the wall.

From the edge of the border outlined by the template, we draw a line upward along the vertical level on both sides. The distance from the border to the top of the log, on the wide (inner) side, must be at least 5 centimeters.

Then we outline the edge of the seat, cut through the end, and cut down the log segment. It is important when cutting the butt, not to make a cut below the border of the template.

A paw is also made at the opposite end of the log. Then, according to the same instructions, a second log is made, which in the log house will be parallel to the first.

We pass to the transverse logs of the first crown. Trimming, marking and cheeks on the transverse log are done in exactly the same way as on the first one. But the paw is a little different, since it is already full, with two landing sites, upper and lower.

First, the lower platform of the paw is made. We measure about 5 cm from the bottom of the log, set and outline the template.

Why about 5 cm? Since the logs do not differ in perfect evenness, and the trimming will most likely not be perfect at first, the template will most likely lead the plane away, so it will need to be adjusted along the lower paw, and this adjustment can eat another 1 - 2 cm.

As a result, we will get the normal paw depth. The depth of the paw should be approximately 0.5 of the width of the groove, so if the average groove width is 12 - 14 cm, then the paw depth is normally 6 - 7 cm.

Don't forget that the narrow end of the template is on the outside. The upper edge can not be drawn yet. I have outlined it here to make it clearer for you.

Now we draw the inner edge of the paw according to the level.

We turn the log over, and, just like on the first log, we draw an edge and make a cut, and we also cut out the paw, only if the top of the paw was made on the first log, now, on the transverse one, we make the bottom.

We do not touch the upper landing yet, since the lower one will still have to be adjusted.

After that, we take an electric planer and process the knot protrusions. If there are sharp bends, protrusions on the log, then we trim them as well.

It remains for us to adjust the planes of the paws of the longitudinal and transverse logs, but how to do this, so as not to repeat again, I will show on the second log, on which there will already be a groove.

In the meantime, let's set the transverse and display the entire structure along the diagonals and the level. The level is taken from the bottom of the first logs.

Adjustment of the planes of the paws

We have ready the top of the paw of the first log and the bottom of the paw of the first transverse. Now you need to fit these planes.

First of all, we draw a vertical. This is done with the help of a level and a wedge.

Having exposed the log in this way, we look at the gap, determine and outline the places on the paw that need to be hemmed so that there is no gap and the log lies strictly vertically.

After fitting, we measure the resulting depth of the lower plane of the paw, and according to this size we draw according to the template and cut down the upper plane. Thus, the paw will be located exactly in the middle of the log.

Now we are preparing a triple log. It will be longitudinal, with a groove, and all subsequent logs will be made according to the same instructions.

We expose the log as mentioned above, cut out the cheeks and cut down the bottom of the paw with a depth of about 5 cm, process the knots and ledges with a planer and install it on the previous one.

We expose the vertical with the help of a wedge, and look at the gap between the logs.

Wooden housing construction is gaining momentum, which is no wonder, because living in an environmentally friendly facility in the age of the stone jungle is much healthier. standalone device the house of your dreams is quite possible, provided that the owner of the suburban area has the skills of carpentry. Below are descriptions of the important processes that precede such work, the answer to the question of how to make a log house with your own hands, as well as recommendations for its operation after installation.

Site preparation

What is it? The site must be cleared of any kind of vegetation. Moreover, after uprooting all the shrubs, you should water the ground with chemicals so that the roots do not stretch again. If this is not done, then you can wait for the appearance of trees in the log house. Perhaps, from a design point of view, it will look stylish and unusual, but broken floorboards and constant dampness are unlikely to suit the owners.

The cleared site is fenced, thereby preventing the passage of other people's vehicles and marking the boundaries of the construction site. It is necessary to ensure the arrival of special equipment, if any, and conduct electricity and water to the site. Thus, the area can be considered ready for the next stage - the foundation.

It would be nice to equip a place for storing wood. Usually this is a canopy that protects the material from natural actions. In addition, it will need to be covered with a film if the construction is delayed.

Foundation construction

When choosing a foundation for a log house, one should proceed from its size and terrain conditions:

Tape. Suitable for any type of building. Works well on problematic soils. You can be sure that the log house will not “go” over time. Minus - it requires a large amount of concrete, which cannot reduce the cost of construction, even if you make a log house yourself.
Pile. Suitable for light one-story buildings. It behaves perfectly on heaving and rocky soils, reduces construction costs, but you can forget about floor insulation: a walking wind sweeping snowdrifts under a log house is a common thing. It is built in warm areas.
Columnar. First of all, it is intended for damp lands. It is too capricious: after shrinkage, the level will definitely move, so its construction should be left to specialists. Economical.
Slab. The most reliable, but expensive. Represents the basis which is completely filled in with concrete. It shows itself perfectly on problematic soil: it does not lead, does not allow dampness or heaving. Laborious.

Below is a description of the installation for a strip foundation as the best in terms of price-quality ratio.

For work you will need:

shovel;
level;
measuring instruments;
formwork - boards, boards;
crushed stone, sand;
fittings;
insulation;
concrete pour.

The process starts with markup. Each bearing wall the log house must be firmly placed on the foundation. With that condition, a contour is outlined. It is very convenient to use wooden stakes and harsh threads.

Then ditches are dug along the marked lines. The soil must be immediately stored separately, it may still be needed. Depth, depending on freezing, cannot be less than 70 cm.

After that, the future foundation must be insulated. Styrene is used for this. The plates are laid on the sides of the ditch and fixed with pins, piercing and thus fixing them along the walls. If you neglect the insulation, then later it will affect the quality of operation.

Reinforcement is being installed. It is absolutely necessary for the rigidity of the structure. To do this, steel rods are shifted by crossing and boiled at the nodes and at the corners of the future log house.

The formwork is set up to the edge of the basement. Shields or boards are strengthened in accordance with the level so that the future foundation is even.

Do concrete pouring. To save money, rubble is poured into the ditch - construction waste: crushed stone, broken bricks, stones, and so on. Filling is carried out slowly, until complete shrinkage, each time pouring water until a milky foam appears on the surface. This is done so that the surface of the foundation does not crack. Then he should be given time for complete solidification - 2-3 weeks.

After the formwork has been removed, construction cannot begin immediately. Shrinkage of the base occurs during the year. During this time, it is possible to review all the nuances of the material.

Thus, the construction of the foundation can be considered completed. If the owners in the future want to have any extension, then you need to think about this even when planning the site. It is best when a common log house is made on one basis.

Direct material selection

Probably, even before the moment of walking around the offices, the owners had already decided on the choice of wood for their future brainchild. Based on financial capabilities, the material in the log house corresponds to them. An array is considered more expensive, but with it you can be sure that the house will be warm and durable. In addition, due to the beauty of a wild or rounded log, there is no need to decorate it. No less beautiful will be profiled or glued beams. In this case, construction with such materials will be easier due to the correct geometric shape of the material.

Types of logs that are used for log cabins.

The problem with the question of how to properly make the log house itself lies in cutting corners. Without the appropriate skill, you can get at least material consumption. The greater evil is the windswept house. There are many types of felling. The most popular were "in the paw" and "in the bowl." In the first case, the consumption of material decreases, but the corners become cold bridges. In the second, skill is required, but a house with such a cabin is reliable.

It also makes sense to choose softwood or hardwood. The advantage of conifers is the presence of phytoncides, which serve as protection against mold, fungus and bark beetles for the tree. The downside of coniferous trees is that, due to their resinous content, it is not recommended to build bathhouses from them. The resin flows and poses a threat to people with high blood pressure, as it clogs all ventilation. The choice should be optimal in terms of price, decent quality and durability.

The laying of the first crown begins - the main element in the entire frame. To make it of high quality, it is recommended to choose larch for such a case. This tree has established itself as an excellent material that does not interact with moisture. An example of this is the piles in Venice, which have stood in the water for many hundreds of years. They were made from Russian larch, by the way.

So, layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation, or it is tarred with bituminous mastic. Then a beam or log with already cut grooves is placed. Naturally, strictly according to the level. Also, you can not forget to stock up on interventional insulation. It can be moss, jute or tow. Although the builders refuse the latter. Logs for the subfloor are immediately installed (for the convenience of the entire installation process).

The following crowns do not differ from the installation of the first. The only difference is that the initial log or beam should be somewhat wider than the rest. The work is carried out according to the plan or project, accurately combining the drawings with the realities. That is, window openings or doorways should be in place immediately, and not later. The fastening material is usually wooden dowels. The use of metal is undesirable, since the appearance of corrosion will lead to the destruction of wood. The work is carried out to the desired height, shifting the crowns with a heater. The last two rows in the log house are not fixed with anything. After shrinkage, they must be removed in order to properly mount and strengthen the truss system. Thus, you can build a log house yourself. This is not the most difficult, but responsible work.

Caulker and some nuances of construction

Construction, of course, is not over.

The log house needs at least a year for final shrinkage.

At the end of the laying of the crowns, you can carry out a preliminary caulk, but you should not get too carried away with this. Due to inexperience, you can overdo it, and then the house will turn out to be crooked, with bulging elements. However, without preliminary caulking, later you can not see the flaws in the construction.

What is a caulk? This is the sealing of the interventional gaps with a suitable material. For this purpose, moss, tow, jute, lnovatin and rope are used. Tow is considered the worst. Over time, it will turn into dust. In addition, birds are very fond of her and will pull her out even before the owners start using the house. When buying jute, you need to be careful not to purchase jute felt instead. No matter how the seller assures that its properties are the same as those of the above material, it is worth knowing that felt is a favorite delicacy of moths. For beautiful rounded logs, you can use a rope so that the aesthetic appearance of the log house is complete.

Caulking is carried out with special tools: a spatula, a mallet and an extension. The essence of the process is to plug all the cracks and gaps between the logs, even if they are not visible at first glance.

There are two methods: in a set, and stretched. The first is good for thread seals. A thread is twisted from the material and pushed through the slots by means of a set of loops. The second is faster and better: the material spreads along the entire length of the log, and one edge is tightly tucked into the gap. The second rolls up and goes there. It is worth knowing that caulking is carried out from the bottom up and from both sides of the log house. After another 3-5 years, the process must be repeated.

After caulking, you can erect a roof and proceed to internal insulation and decoration.

The described process of how to independently make a quality log house is simple only on paper. At wooden construction lots of nuances. You can comply with them subject to a responsible approach to business and the study of supporting information. Only then will the operation of a house built by oneself fully please the owners and make them proud of themselves.

Building a bath from a log house is not an easy task, but the construction technology, the choice of materials, and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.

This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camping stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries of competition with baths and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, give the body good rest- all this is achieved by visiting the bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it works in general - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Location and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a fresh water reservoir located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrast bath - after taking a steam bath in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, a natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which arose quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Today, there is no particular need to link a country bath to a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse are: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from outsiders (dense bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire-prevention distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main premises of the bath are a waiting room, a washing room and a steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 for one person. In addition, in the dressing room there should be a place for furniture (locker for clothes, benches for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and a place for sunbeds.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bathhouse of the following sizes is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bath of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bath can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, relaxation rooms, etc. to it.

In temperate and cold climatic zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bath is located in the south, and window openings- on the western (south-western) side of it. Such an arrangement of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will make it possible to illuminate its premises with sunlight longer.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

Procurement of basic materials.
Selection and laying of the foundation.
Creation of a foundation for a stove-heater (if necessary).
Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bath.
Assembling the log cabin.
Roof construction.
Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
Caulking bath walls.
Laying or installation of a furnace, installation of a chimney.
Electricity and water supply of the bath.
Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful structural material for the Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, removing excess moisture to the outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, baths are built from pine or spruce round timber with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bath - oak, larch and linden. For example, the lower crowns and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the very juice" (that is, not deadwood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made from larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for building a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bath - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of coniferous species, dryness, a sanded surface, the absence of rotten areas and places of damage by woodworms.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundation for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying the foundation of any type: cleaning the site from debris, complete removal of the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid clay or fluid plastic.
Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (dusty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bath

Arranged on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junctions of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation are easy to make directly at the construction site of the bath; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, the auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

Foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be done independently. This will require a collapsible formwork made of boards, smeared from the inside with a non-hardening lubricant of the Emulsol type. Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For casting foundation pillars inside the pits dug for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is covered with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then the concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is lifted by 400 mm by rocking, sand is poured from the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is smooth enough, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be covered with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

Between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bath and internal walls the steam room is laid out with brick walls, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried in the ground by 250 mm.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are brought to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. At the ends of the pillars, during casting, mortgages of the required shape made of metal are installed - they are designed to fasten the log cabin of the bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a tape monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

Marking the construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
Formwork installation.
Reinforcement tab.
fill concrete mix.

The reinforcement laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5:3:1 (crushed stone:sand:cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). It is quite simple to calculate the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

0.3 x 0.4 x 22 \u003d 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in the preparation of a dry mix of concrete is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of gravel, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or wire probe, tap the outside of the formwork with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, the formwork after pouring concrete must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the period allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

Ruberoid.
Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), section from 32 to 57 mm.
The grid is masonry.
Red brick.
Masonry mortar.

Roofing material (roofing) is cut into strips sufficient for flooring on a concrete foundation, then laid out on top of the foundation on bituminous mastic(for roofing - tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row dressing method: a masonry mortar is laid out on a roofing material layer, the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis) is laid on it, then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are laid, but already “in a spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying "in spoons" and "poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bond rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired height of the foundation.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the solution is sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the bath house. If a major laying of the heater is supposed, it needs an independent foundation, i.e. not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earth, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. On the surface of the bath floor is usually laid wooden lattice, cork mats or mats - their task is to relieve bath visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring rises above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and an unpleasant odor. The wooden flooring wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, after 6-8 years may require replacement. More practical for bath flooring will be tile- it is easier to take care of it, it is not affected by moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms must be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep warm), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm lower than the floor level in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a concrete floor with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid in series. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay a roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

First option- flooring with a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can proceed to tile work.
Second option- 50 mm cement strainer containing perlite (expanded sand). Composition of the mixture: perlite:cement:water as 5:1:3. After a full week from the moment of laying the perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Correctly observe the proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bath above the ground (from 300 mm), wooden logs of square section (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs will be supported by the logs. For larger sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support pillars for logs must be placed on a multilayer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the log, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewerage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

Solution floor covering in this case, it is as follows: the concreted space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation, a layer of 200 mm foam can be laid), a draft floor of 29 mm edged boards is attached to the underside of the lags. Then a PVC film is laid, foil mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top we pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the foundation for the furnace to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm grooved boards made of softwood.

An important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic Construction Materials- the condition is especially important for the steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain wastewater from the bath, you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for Wastewater and pipes that carry dirty water to the pit and further to the sewer.

The pit is torn off outside the foundation of the bath, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it from the steam room and washing room ( metal pipes rust quickly).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, a 110 mm drain pipe (pipes) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drains, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the farther the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid under a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main sewage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully tamp each layer.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To avoid freezing in winter period the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), lay felt between them, and cover the top cover with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Shed, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers; its manufacture is quite difficult. The finished log house, disassembled, must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. Crowns are fastened with 25 mm steel spikes with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The design of the roof of the bath includes rafters, a crate is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on roofing with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (better to the penultimate one) with the help of staples-thorns. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of a single or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Shed rafters, located at an angle, are fixed with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are interconnected, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap on the walls of at least 500 mm.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

Along the perimeter of the foundation, we perform a blind area: we completely remove upper layer soil, deepen by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay the expansion joints (19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), pour a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - dry cement is covered with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bath must be covered with bitumen for its waterproofing.

Caulker of a bath house

It is carried out for warming the log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, linen tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt are traditionally used for caulking. natural materials for caulking, it can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax and felt - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to moth and fungus damage, and it is easier to work with factory material, because it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of the log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the construction of the roof, a complete caulking is carried out - from the outside and inside log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house settles down - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet, you can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking spatula looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, handle thickness 30 mm, blade width at the base 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the impact part diameter is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is performed in two ways - “in a set” or “in a stretch”. In the second way, we caulk like this: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it in with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller around them and drive it into the groove with the help of a spatula and roller - with force, until we are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover grooves (slots) of large width. We twist the material for caulking with 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the slot. Loops are recruited in an amount sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only after that - along the bottom;
we start work on caulking from the slots of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move on to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the next one in the nearest wall (right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

In no case do not caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the log house to skew, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Recall once again: caulking is performed in the direction "from bottom to top" along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the oven

There are many design options for sauna stoves, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated by electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick ovens in baths are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry joints must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. Only red brick is used for laying stoves. The firebox of the stove is taken out into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are in the washing room (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast-iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters installed for those who like to take a steam bath are equipped with a chamber containing stones different weight(from 1 to 5 kg). But, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the chamber of the heater. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to stoves, heaters differ from them in a wider pipe or in the presence of a chamber with stones.

To get the most high temperature in the steam room, cast-iron ingots must be added to the stones at a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of a steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

If a distance of 40–50 mm is observed in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of a comprehensive blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better traction, you need to withdraw chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When passing the chimney through the attic space, be sure to fluff the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near the roof sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

At least 8 liters are required for washing one bath user hot water. There are several ways to provide such an amount: heat a container of water on the stove, use geyser, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bath is led from the main house - the water from such a pipeline system must be drained in winter, otherwise it will freeze and break the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and supplying such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

To the bath you need to stretch an independent line for the supply of electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, stopping at two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a carrier cable. But it is extremely difficult to carry out installation work with it, because it is too thick (the minimum cross section is 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of the bath along fire regulations, it is required to mount it on special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed on a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on a wire insulated with plastic, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), pulled through the air to the bath, the optimal cross section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what kind of electrical equipment the owner of the dacha wants to power from it in the future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel must be outdoor installation only. According to the rules against fire safety it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Do not joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bath should be done only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed to special clips, cable passage through partitions - only through steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple fixtures - a metal case, only a glass cover. All connections of the internal wiring of the cable are only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of RCDs, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you yourself are not one!

Installation of partitions, ceiling, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

The internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, with subsequent heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts are made in it with masonry in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually carried out in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the decoration scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing exterior and interior decoration, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because log logs will be covered with sheathing and will not be able to carry out full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - draft and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing / steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the draft ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a fine finish - lime, pine grooved board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

Bathroom needs windows small size(on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that you can look out through them to the person sitting on the bench. The windows in the bath are always double-glazed, depending on the size - with a window or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in the sauna rooms must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened to the dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, with increasing humidity, the sash will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimum door size washing department baths - 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it is uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep warm). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles- wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. Minimum shelf length - 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the "floors" of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to ceiling covering- 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the caps of which are sunk into the tree; bottom with screws. For fastening choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the design of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas have a higher density and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and timber without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace furnace, make sure that the furnace doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing equipment nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure that you can freely open the doors of the steam room and washing room when kindling the bath. Do not block passages, the space in front of doors and windows.