Appliances for cold. How to make beautiful products by cold forging. Do-it-yourself cold forging of metal

Looking at the fences, gates and wickets, as in the picture, at houses that are clearly not of an elite class, a person who has some idea of the equipment of the forge and the nature of the work there may think: where do they get so much money from? A more knowledgeable blacksmith will not have such a question: these beauties, as well as the metal decor of furniture, light garden buildings, swings, benches, etc., are created in a way cold forging.

prices for cold artistic forging affordable because production costs and initial equipment costs are low, and labor productivity is not bad for artisanal conditions. Therefore, an individual blacksmith specializing in artistic cold forging can count on a fairly quick start and good profitability. Perhaps one of the owners of the samples in Fig. made your own: cold forging with your own hands is doable in a garage or barn without experience, and forged parts for small pieces of furniture, balusters, barbecues and all sorts of other metal utensils (see, for example, the figure on the right) can even be done at home conditions.

The basis of the "cold forge" is a cold forging machine. For a complete production cycle that can satisfy any conceivable fantasies of yours or the customer, 5-7 types of machines will be required, 3-5 main ones of which can be made by hand. However, in the beginning, before spending money on a machine or materials for it, it is highly desirable to master the beginnings of blacksmithing. Therefore, some methods for making artistic forging parts without a machine tool and equipment for them, which can be quickly made from improvised materials, will also be considered below.

Stamping, forging and bending

So what is cold forging? It differs from stamping in that the metal under the influence of the working body almost does not flow or flows weakly. Take a look at a beer can or, say, an aluminum or tin kettle. They are extruded with one blow of the punch of the punch press; kettle etc. . products of complex shape - a composite sliding punch. It is impossible to obtain the working force necessary to create such a high pressure at home, except for one case, see below.

Cold forging differs from hot forging, of course, in that the workpiece is not preheated. Actually cold forging, which is forging, is the riveting (hardening) of a part with a long series of regular blows of a certain force. In this case, the structure of the metal changes significantly: the hardness of the surface layer increases, and the core provides overall toughness and fracture strength. Handicraftsmen - toolmakers and gunsmiths - literally hunt for buffers and wheel tires of railway cars, pieces of rails.

Riveting of steel is carried out with a mechanical hammer. You can make it yourself, and even easier than some types of cold art forging machines. But this publication is devoted specifically to the latter subject, and cold art forging is essentially bending (bending) of metal: its structure in detail does not undergo significant changes, and a change in the physical and mechanical properties of the metal for the quality of the final product is not significant. Therefore, we will leave cold forging, which is forging, until a suitable occasion, and let's deal with forging, which is bending. For brevity, let's just call it artistic forging, and where it is necessary to mention hot forging, it will be specifically mentioned there.

Machine tools and equipment for cold forging

The main equipment for do-it-yourself artistic forging is several types of hand-operated machines and fixtures. The electric drive is used infrequently, because. the resulting increase in productivity is not always equal to the complexity of manufacturing and the cost of electricity. However, we will still remember about the electric drive for home forging machines while we deal with the “handbrakes”. Almost all elements of the products in Fig. at the beginning can be done on the following types of machines:

Twisters (twisters), pos. 1 in fig. - form flat spirals and other curls with a narrow core (core).
torsion machines, pos. 2- allow you to get a helical twist of a bar and elements from volumetric spirals, the so-called. filaments: baskets, lanterns, bulbs.
Inertial stamping machines, pos. 3- on them, the ends of the rods are splashed into shaped tips (pos. 1 in the figure below), decorative clamps are stamped to connect the details of the pattern (pos. 2 in the same figure), a small wave and relief are squeezed out on long details.

Bending machines are push, broaching and combined, pos. 4. The former allow you to receive only waves and zigzags; broaching - rings, curls and spirals with wide cores, and the latter all these types of products.

Note: in the technical literature, especially in English, all machines that form parts by torsion or winding are often called twisters. Initially, a twister is a machine for winding springs. But in relation to artistic forging, it would be more correct to consider winding machines as twisters, and twisting machines as torsion ones.

What are gnats?

In technical vernacular, bending machines are called benders. However, in amateur and private metalworking, the name "gnutik" has established itself behind a desktop device for obtaining waves and zigzags, see fig. on right. By changing the roller or wedge in the bend, it is possible to vary the step and height of the wave or the angle of the zigzag within certain limits.

A bend for rods / pipes up to 12-16 mm is relatively inexpensive, but it is difficult to make it yourself at home: you need precise processing of special steels. Try with an ordinary electric drill with an ordinary drill for metal to drill an ordinary open-ended wrench. And in the gyne, the workloads are much higher than on its sponges. Therefore, it is better to buy a bender, in addition to forging on the farm, it will be useful for the manufacture of elements of welded metal structures, as a pipe bender for small thick-walled strong pipes, and in other cases.

Twisters

From time immemorial, blacksmiths have twisted curls cold according to a mandrel template with a horn lever grip, pos. 1 in fig. This method is unproductive and not for squishy people, but it allows you to quickly and easily make a variety of bending mandrels from an ordinary steel strip: the end (thrust) horn of the lever does not allow the template to move under the pressure of the workpiece. It is advisable to make the middle (bypass) horn sliding with fixation: the work will go slower, but, especially in inexperienced hands, more accurately.

Another simple device for manual form bending is durable board with support pins - spacers, pos. 2; ordinary M8-M24 bolts are suitable as them. Depending on how friendly you are with a home simulator, you can work with a strip of up to 4-6 mm. They bend the strip by eye, the work goes slowly, but you can draw patterns up to Ilya Muromets on a horse in full armor or Buddha in a lotus flower. The last, perhaps, and completely self made: people who have fully mastered hatha and raja yoga are able to twist steel fittings into a pattern with their hands.

snails

The twister machine - a snail is most popular among those involved in artistic forging: its capabilities, in comparison with the simplicity of design, availability for do-it-yourself manufacturing and ease of use, are amazing. Actually, the snail machine is a slightly mechanized and improved bending arm, but such a “little” did possible job on it for beginners. Snail machines are divided, in turn, into machines with a gate and a rotary share and lever machines with a fixed template and a bypass roller.

Snail with a plowshare

The device of a bending snail with a plowshare is shown in the diagram below; the technology of working with such a machine is also described there.

The advantages of this type of twister bending machine are as follows:

It is possible to work on a snail with a rotary share and a gate in an unequipped room: the vertical component of the working load is negligible, and its horizontal components are partially transferred to the support.
Due to the previous point, the supporting structure can be quite simple and light, welded from ordinary steel profiles.
We can carry out the working process alone: turning the gate with one hand, with the other we press the bar or strip to the plowshare-template. As it bends, its links will fall into place on their own.
In a cold way, on a snail with a rotary share, you can twist spirals up to 5 turns.

Drawings of a snail machine for artistic forging with a specification of parts are given in fig. We will talk about the dimensions of the links (segments) of the folding share further, but for now, pay attention to the steel grades: there are heavy loads on the share. If you make it from ordinary structural steel, the template will lead to the middle of the gate or section of the fence.

Note: more detailed drawings of the snail machine similar design with a description and details, see the link: //dwg.ucoz.net/publ/osnastka/instrument_dlja_kholodnoj_kovki/5. In the same place you will find drawings of a homemade bender and devices for bending rings.

The material for the folding swivel share, as well as the complexity of its manufacture, are not the only weak points of the snail machine with a collar. An even more serious problem is the articulation of the share links (shown by red arrows in the figure on the right). The joints of the share segments must:

It is difficult to fulfill all these conditions together and in a well-established and equipped industrial production, therefore, the resources of folding templates for cold forging are generally much less than their material by itself would allow. Poor use of material properties is a serious disadvantage. In addition, for the same reasons, another weak point of the snail machine with a collar is the eccentric clamping of the part. Therefore, home-made snail machines for artistic forging, made according to a lever scheme, work more successfully for beginner homemade blacksmiths.

Snail with lever

The lever snail for cold forging is designed similarly to everything known. Homemade machine- lever-type snail with a fixed template is significantly inferior in performance to a snail with a collar. The workload in it is more fully transferred to the base, therefore, a strong frame made of special steel or a thick plate of ordinary steel, securely fixed to the supporting surface, is required. As a result, a room is required for a workshop or production area on outdoors. Work on the lever snail is progressing slowly: turning the lever until it is jammed, you need to move the pressure roller. It is possible to curl on a lever snail up to 3-4 turns. However, the advantages of a lever snail for home craftsmen are significant, especially when working for yourself:

All parts, except for the pressure roller, can be made of ordinary steel.
It is possible to use a standard roller bearing as a pressure roller.
The use of the material properties of the parts is almost complete: the template and the bed made of ordinary steel can withstand more than 1000 work cycles.
You can bend both according to the template (pos. 1 in the figure below), and along the spacers, pos. 2 there.

In addition, the lever snail machine allows you to use a technological technique that is considered the prerogative of industrial twister machines: the template is shifted to the side, and a spacer is placed in the center, pos. 3 in fig. Thus, a small reverse bend is obtained in the core of the curl. The detail looks spectacular and, when working for sale, the product is valued more.

The lever snail has another rather fat little plus: on such a machine, you can bend flat curls with a small core from a strip laid flat. A snail with a collar and a swivel share here completely fails: the workpiece will go in a vertical wave. Wide curls and flat strip rings can be bent on a broaching machine with grooved rolls, see fig. on right. But the broach speed, so that the workpiece does not lead, this requires a significant one, so that a narrow core of the curl will not work.

On a lever snail machine, this problem is solved by installing a pressure roller as high as the thickness of the strip and with a flange (rim), like a railway wheel, only wider. Bending with this method takes a lot of time: the lever must be applied a little bit, otherwise the inner edge of the workpiece will wrinkle; from this rebord does not save. But it is impossible to get a curl from a flat strip with a narrow core in a handicraft production in another way.

In general, at the start of blacksmithing and art activities or making a forged fence, gate, gate, bench, swing, gazebo, etc., arranging a garden for yourself, it is still better to use a lever snail machine for cold forging. Moreover, it can be made from improvised materials without accurate and detailed drawings, see for example. next video.

Video: do-it-yourself artistic forging machine is simple

How to build a curl?

There are enough sketches of curls for artistic forging on the Internet, but when trying to adjust their sizes to those required for oneself, it often turns out that the product loses spectacularly due to a seemingly insignificant violation of proportions. Therefore, it is also desirable to be able to build forging patterns of curls, which obviously have aesthetic merit.

Patterns for cold forging of artistic curls - volutes - are built on the basis of mathematical spirals. The logarithmic spiral is most commonly used; it is one of the widespread natural forms, expressing the fundamental laws of nature. The logarithmic spiral is found in the shell of a mollusk, and in our hearing aid, and in the form of a treble clef in musical notation; in the fretboard of the violin itself, too.

The principle of constructing a logarithmic spiral by points is that when the radius forming it rotates, starting from a certain initial R0, by a fixed angle φ, its length is multiplied by the spiral divergence index p. For volutes p, as a rule, they take no more than 1.2, because the logarithmic spiral diverges (unwinds) very quickly; on pos. In fig. for example, a logarithmic spiral with p = 1.25 is shown. To make it easier to build a spiral point by point with sufficient accuracy for blacksmithing, take φ = 45 degrees.

In the case when a denser arithmetic spiral is required, when the radius forming it is rotated by the same 45 degrees, 1/8 of the spiral pitch S is added to the previous radius, pos. B. In both cases, R0 is taken equal to or greater than the diameter d of a workpiece of uniform cross section, pos A. If the initial end of the workpiece is pointed, R0 may be less than d, up to the ductility limit of the metal.

It remains to decide how to lay a visually harmonious spiral with the opening size a specified for it. To solve this problem analytically, i.e. using formulas with any predetermined accuracy, one will have to solve equations of cubic and higher degrees. Computer programs for the numerical technical calculation of volutes are not found on the Internet, so we will use an approximate method that allows us to get by with one worker and, possibly, one verification graphical construction. It is based on the assumption that for small p the sums R2+R6 and R4+R8 do not differ much. step by step algorithm building a volute for a forging template, it follows from this:

based on the available material, we determine R0;
we take the number of turns of the volute w according to the principle: as God puts on the soul of the left hind paw of his beloved cat;
using the data of the table in Fig., we calculate the diameter of the volute b such that it is slightly less than the width of the opening under it a, see pos. G;
we calculate the working initial radius R according to the formula in pos. G;
we build a volute profile on a scale by points;
if necessary, we fine-tune R according to the same formula and build the profile of the working template finally.

Note: if you will calculate intermediate values from the table, do not forget - you need to take them in geometric proportion!

torsion bars

It is possible to twist rods for artistic forging with a screw without a machine at all, see fig. on right. To prevent the workpiece from bending at the root (clamped in a vice) end, a wooden block or something like it with a V-shaped cutout at the top must be substituted under the end of the guide tube farthest from them; it is better to grab the pipe to this support with a clamp, and fix the stand on the workbench. The pipe should be shorter than the workpiece and inside about 1.5 times wider than its largest diameter, because. the workpiece, when twisted, is pulled together and distributed in breadth.

Torsion machine for cold forging allows you to increase productivity and improve the quality of the parts obtained. The working force in it is transferred to the support to a large extent, so the frame is needed strong, in the form of a spinal frame from an I-beam from 100 mm or a pair of welded channels of the same size; the pipe will visibly deform. On the supporting surface, the frame must be securely fixed with the help of paws welded to its ends from the same profile, pos. 1 in fig.

The workpiece - a square bar - is held by mandrels-chucks with sockets also of a square section; they are visible there in pos. 1. Because the bar is shortened in length during twisting, the cartridges in the spindle and tailstock must be securely fixed with screw clamps. For the same reason, the tailstock is sliding. To make it possible to twist individual sections of the workpiece, a sliding stop with an insert with a square hole is also used.

If you only want to make a fence for yourself or something smaller, you can hastily build a torsion machine from scrap and improvised materials, pos. 2. In principle, filaments can also be obtained on both machines by inserting a bundle of 4 bars half the size into cartridges. But do not think that you can make a good flashlight or basket just by pushing the tailstock with a lever. It will turn out something like the one on the sidebar in pos. 1 and 2. Blacksmiths call such incidents a well-known word, but not used in literary speech. When twisting the filament in a simple torsion machine, the branches of the filament must be spread out in breadth with a hand tool, which is difficult and does not provide the proper quality of work.

Beautiful filaments (pos. 3) are twisted on torsion machines with a fixed tailstock and screw feed of the spindle, pos. 4. Now let's go back to fig. with types of machines at the beginning, to pos. 2 on it. See the thing with the green exclamation mark? This is a replacement spindle. There are 2 of them in the set: a smooth one for spiral twisting along the long axis of the workpiece and a screw one for twisting filaments. In this design, the bed is welded from a pair of channels with a longitudinal gap, and a shoe with a threaded hole for a locking screw is welded to the tailstock. A shoe is needed with a sole from 100x100, because. fixation of the tailstock in the filament mode is frictional and only partly jammed: the locking screw gives only the initial clamping force.

About the torsion bar electric drive

Work on a torsion machine with manual drive spindle is tedious. But the main thing is the stable quality of products such as in pos. 3 fig. with torsion bars, it is even more difficult to achieve. The reason is that it is difficult to create a uniform torque in a circle with your hands, like with any other lever drive. Therefore, a torsion cold forging machine is just the case when the use of an electric drive is justified no matter what. The best option from improvised materials - the axle shaft of the drive axle of a rear-wheel drive vehicle with a gear pair from the differential from the same place, see fig. on right; don't forget the protective cover! Motor - 1.5-3 kW and no more than 900 rpm. Other design options are also possible, see e.g. video clip:

Video: homemade electric cold forging machine

Spiral like a spiral

In some cases, ordinary straight straight ascending spirals are used as an element of artistic forging. It is absolutely unrealistic to make a spring twister machine for this on your own. But remember: there is no need to spring the spirals in the forged pattern and it can be wound from ordinary ductile steel using a simple device (see the figure on the right). The step (ascent) of the spiral is determined by the horn of the gate (filled in red); bending the horn up and down, you can get thinner and thicker spirals. A square bar is taken on a workpiece or a round one, it doesn't matter. You can also twist spirals from a bar twisted on a torsion bar.

Wave and zigzag

Now we have in turn a tool and equipment for wave and zigzag bending of long workpieces. Mentioned at the beginning of the bend and lingering-push bending machine are not reproducible by hand. In addition, the first allows you to adjust the pitch and profile within relatively small limits, and the second is expensive. However, a universal wave bending machine can still be made with your own hands on the model of what is on the left in Fig. Only rollers will have to be ordered, they must be made of chromium-nickel or tool steel; the rest is from a simple structural one, a sheet (strip) of 8 mm is needed for the brackets and the arc. Limiters are installed in the arc to accurately maintain the wave profile, but the workloads are transferred to it to a large extent; in fact, the arc provides transverse rigidity of the structure.

It is possible to bend only smooth, but very diverse, waves by adding a gate for waves to the snail machine with a rotary plowshare, on the right in Fig. The handles are used the same, because. they are screwed into threaded sockets on the head of the gate. It is desirable to make the root (central) roller separate and fasten it to the frame with sunken bolts. In this case, placing rollers different diameter(diameters), it is possible to form waves of a variable and asymmetric profile. And if the bypass roller is made adjustable (for which a number of holes are checked in its carrier), then the wave step can also be changed within a fairly wide range.

About connecting elements and painting

Forged parts need to be assembled into a single composition. The simplest way- welding and subsequent smoothing of the seams with a grinder with a cleaning wheel: it is thicker than a cutting wheel (6.5 mm) and withstands bending forces. But connections with shaped clamps look much more impressive, they are stamped from a strip of 1.5 mm on an inertial stamp; it can also be hot forged quickly and without experience, see below. The clamp blank is made in the form of a U-shaped bracket on a mandrel in the size of the parts to be joined and its wings are bent from the rear in place with a large metalwork hammer or a 1.5-2 kg sledgehammer in a cold way. They paint the finished product, as a rule, with blacksmith's enamels or acrylic paints for metal. Enamels with a blacksmith's patina pigment are more expensive, but better: dried, they are of a noble color, somewhat antique, do not peel off, do not fade, wear and heat resistant

How to get around the stone

Those. a stumbling block in all of the above: shaped tips of rods; without them, a fence is not a fence, a gate is not a gate, and a gate is not a gate. The inertial stamping press (pos. 3 in the figure with machine types) is expensive, but effective. It works on the principle of a flywheel: first, smoothly rotating the rocker (bar with weights), the screw head is pulled back until it stops. Then a replaceable stamp is inserted into the socket, a blank is placed. Next, quickly unwind the rocker in reverse side(this is a traumatic moment!) and leave it to rotate freely - the working stroke has begun. At the end of it, the striker hits the die shank very hard; due to the inertia of the loads, a force sufficient for stamping is developed.

Loads, especially impact ones, in an inertial stamping machine are large, fall on small areas, and the accuracy of manufacturing its parts needs to be high, so it’s better not to try to do it on your own. It is possible to make a manual rolling mill on your own, see fig. on the right, but only partially: special steel rolls, shafts and bearing bushings will have to be ordered, and gears will have to be bought or looked for second-hand. On such a mill, you can only get goose foot and leaf (spear) tips, and it will immediately be clear from their necks that this is machine work.

Meanwhile, the same, and some others, rod tips can be hot forged without being an experienced blacksmith. A good, obviously handmade tip-sheet is forged simply with a sledgehammer and a hammer, and a forging stamp (stamp) for the paws is made from an unusable file in which grooves are selected by a grinder. Do you need a forge for this? For occasional small work, it is not at all necessary; the main thing is to heat the metal. A propane burner is not suitable, the heating must be uniform on all sides and without overburning. So, we come to the conclusion that cold and hot forging do not exclude each other: in order to obtain high-quality products with the help of simple cold forging machines or even improvised means, it does not even hurt, in addition to them, a small forge from improvised materials.

Any master, equipping a home forge, acquires a minimum set of tools and accessories. But, as a rule, the simplest technological operations with metal blanks are made only at the first stage.

With gaining experience with iron, there is both a desire and a need to do artistic forging - this is both a home decoration and additional income. Unfortunately, the machine for giving samples a spiral shape - a snail - is practically not found on sale. One way or another, but home craftsmen, as a rule, make it with their own hands. Features of self-design and assembly of a snail for cold forging are the topic of this article.

Snail Features

The author specifically decided to draw the reader's attention to a number of points. This will help you avoid some mistakes in the future. For example, having dealt with the device of the snail and the principle of its functioning, someone will want to assemble their own device, different from those whose drawings will be presented below.

Such a device will completely (if we are talking about do-it-yourself equipment) allow bending samples with a cross section (square side) of no more than 10 - 12 mm. A snail model with "manual control" is implied. With more overall samples in everyday life, almost no one has anything to do. The machine can be improved by installing a drive and an electric motor.

But how rational is this for a small home forge?

Cold forging is carried out at low speeds. A sharp change in the geometry of the metal leads to the appearance of cracks (ruptures).
You will have to not only select the power of the electric motor, but also the gear ratio of the gearbox. Plus, to mount the automation circuit with the installation of the appropriate elements (buttons, starter, and so on). All this greatly complicates the manufacture of the machine.

Conclusion - for a home forge, a snail is enough, with which you can bend metal products manually. Anyone who understands all the nuances of its design and understands at least something in electrical engineering will be able to independently install an electric drive on it.

Making a snail

Several devices are shown in the figure. Approximately so (basically) it should turn out.

Assembling a snail with your own hands is one of the options for self-design, when to give recommendations indicating the exact parameters of all constituent parts doesn't make sense. Here you need to focus on your own idea of \u200b\u200bwhat and how it will bend (radii, the number of turns of the spiral, and so on). But if the essence of the manufacturing process becomes clear, then the assembly itself will not cause difficulties.

desktop device

The cold forging process requires a lot of effort. If you already have a finished workbench, then you may have to strengthen it. When making a snail from scratch, the table frame is made only of metal - a channel, a corner, a thick-walled pipe.

It is clear that the countertop must also be metal. During the operation of the cochlea, it will be subjected to both static and dynamic loads. Therefore, an ordinary iron sheet is not suitable. Only a plate, and not less than 4 mm.

Marking and installation of "mounted" equipment

Perhaps the most creative stage of work. You can do everything with your own hands. But how, taking into account the prospect or limiting the production of the same type of samples?

Option 1. The easiest. The meaning of the operation is that a spiral outline is drawn on the tabletop.

In fact, this is a sketch of future figured parts, for example, from a bar. After that, it is enough to cut out several segments from thick strip iron, bent along the radius. They are welded to the tabletop, and the bending mechanism is basically ready.

Someone will find this performance more attractive - with a solid strip.

But practice shows that it is more difficult to work with such a snail. For example, when removing a finished product from it, certain difficulties will arise.

Option 2. The same, but several contours are drawn. Holes are drilled along each, in which threads are cut. It remains only to prepare templates for the stop segments. With their own hands they are made, as a rule, from thick cardboard or plywood.

Overlays are made from metal on them, in which, after the next marking, holes are also drilled, coinciding with the landing “nests” in the plate. This design will allow to organize the production of spiral blanks with different radii on one table. It will only be necessary, depending on the shape of the bend, to install the corresponding segments in certain places. Their fastening to the base is bolted. You can do it differently. Instead of such stops, put cylindrical ones.

For fixing, they are attracted by bolts (from the bottom of the plate) or are made immediately with legs (+ thread) and screwed into the tabletop. Much more comfortable with them. And if you have your own, then carving it with your own hands is a matter of a couple of hours.

Option 3. Prepare several removable modules, which can be changed as needed.

Snail assembly

A ploughshare is installed, levers are attached, a side stop. All this is clearly seen in the figures.

Everything that is in the barn (garage, in the attic) will go into action - trimming pipes, rods, corners, and the like. If the principle of the snail's operation is clear, then no more hints are required.

Health check

This is always implied, so no comments.

In principle, making a snail for cold forging is not so difficult. Moreover, some common standard does not exist for such devices. Someone will say - isn't it easier to buy a factory model? First, as already mentioned, you have to look for a long time. Secondly, it is not a fact that its capabilities will coincide with the fantasies of the master. Thirdly, you will have to lighten the wallet by about 19,000 (manual) and 62,000 ( electric model) rubles, at least.

Good luck in making a snail with your own hands!

For the manufacture of forged products two methods are used - cold and hot processing. The first method is characterized by low labor intensity, but requires the presence of a special tool. In most cases, you can make a cold forging machine with your own hands, guided by standard drawings.

Principles of cold forging of metals

For the production of metal forged products, it is necessary to ensure the process of their controlled deformation. In this case, the structure of the material, its technical and operational properties should be taken into account.

The principle of cold forging is based on the influence of external factors on the crystal lattice of the material. It is made up of grains. irregular shape. As a result of the distortion of the structure, which is performed by the cold forging machine, there is a compaction and a change in the configuration of the workpiece. Since one of the conditions is the preservation of the properties of the part, it is necessary to select drawings for the production of machine tools.

Features of cold forging metal, requirements for fixtures for this:

it is possible to process only low-carbon steels, which have a high degree of ductility;
bars of various sections are used as blanks;
preliminary calculation of the dimensions of the final products. In the process of their production, constant monitoring of geometric parameters is necessary;
use of various machines to form the desired configuration.

Currently, a number of special tools are used for the artistic processing of metals by cold forging. Some of them you can do yourself. But for this it is necessary to first study the drawings and the specifics of production.

Forged products can perform several functions at the same time - aesthetic and operational. This applies to barrier structures of various configurations, for example, a wave.

Snail for cold forging

The most common and in demand are home-made snail-type cold forging machines. With their help, spiral blanks are formed. The design of the equipment allows you to make it yourself.

The drawing of the "snail" machine can be adapted for the production of a specific type of artistic forging product. To do this, you need to know the following parameters:

minimum and maximum radius of curvature of the workpiece;
geometric parameters and shape of the source material;
planned performance.

For mass production, it is necessary to make an electric forging machine. If you plan to work at home, manual models are suitable.

As a basis for the design of the volute, it is necessary to use a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. This will allow you to bend large cross-section bars.

For the formation various angles needed manual gnutik- one of the most required devices for cold forging metal. It consists of a steel plate on which there are two support shafts and a moving stop.

The workpiece is placed between the support shafts and the wedge. The latter has a displacement mechanism towards the stops. As a result of this action, bad things happen. steel bar processing. In this way, forged products of various shapes can be made.

Features of the use of a bender, necessary for the correct drawing up of its drawing:

preliminary calculation of the deformation angle;
an additional bending part can be provided in the design. To do this, install another rotating shaft;
table mounting bracket.

It is necessary to use tool steel for the production of bending. This is due to the high loads during operation. Additionally, you can collect elements of the "wave" type on it, but for this you need to upgrade the original drawing.

Minimum and maximum bending radius for thin. forging must be calculated based on the geometric parameters of the workpiece.

Twister for cold forging

It is difficult to imagine modern artistic forging without screw-shaped elements. For the production of such thin. parts are designed twister - a home-made machine for cold forging.

A feature of this tool is the unwinding of the twig along the axis. Structurally, the drawing of the machine consists of two parts - fixing and movable. The part is attached between them and its information is performed with the help of a rotary knob.

Performance features of the device:

calculation of the pressure lever to minimize the efforts for the production of blanks;
the ability to change the distance between the fixing elements of the tool. This will allow you to make parts of various lengths;
it should be taken into account that the formation of the spiral occurs from the side of fixation.

Thanks to the twister, it is possible to make forged elements for window bars, steel barriers, etc.

This is the main list of cold forging machines. But besides them, various equipment is used, designed to create a truly thin. products.

The video shows examples of machines for cold forging metals at home:

Equipment "Snail" for cold forging - mandatory hand tool any master who is engaged in the manufacture of forged products without heating the metal. "Snail" is designed for bending a metal bar during cold forging of metal. Making a "Snail" for cold forging with your own hands is not so difficult.

With the help of home-made cold forging machines, you can make a lot of openwork metal products. Forged fences, fences, gates, gates, railings, benches amaze with interesting outlines, rounded smooth lines. It is the curved forms of forged products that are made using a "snail" - a machine for cold forging metal.

The production of the “snail” tooling takes place in several stages.

In the next video, you can see how the craftsman made a home-made "snail" with his own hands, as well as how and what blanks can be made on such cold forging equipment.

This video features another interesting view a home-made "snail", on which it is convenient to bend forgings into curls and volutes. According to the master, "everything is made more convenient and easier on this machine."

The following video contains a drawing and description of the snail device and necessary materials for the manufacture of a bed and patterns for the production of forged curls.

In this article I will tell you how to make a cold forging machine with which you can make various decorative elements from metal bars or taverns, they can decorate your backyard.

In order to make a cold forging machine, you will need:
* Metal corners in sizes 63 mm and 40 mm
* Ball bearing with number 6310
* The rod from the front shock absorber from passenger car
* Bearing from a car pump
* Welding machine, electrodes
* Quick release clamps
* Protective welding mask, leggings
* Bench vice
* Ruler, marker
* Can of hammer paint
* Angle grinder and cutting disc
* Safety goggles, earmuffs and gloves
* Masking tape

Step one.
First of all, we measure 70 mm from the base of the shock absorber rod, for greater accuracy we make markings with masking tape.

Now we pick up an angle grinder with a cutting wheel installed in it and cut off the threaded part from the stem, and then the necessary part according to the markings made earlier. When working with an angle grinder, be careful to hold the tool firmly while cutting, and do not forget to use personal protective equipment such as earmuffs, gloves and goggles.

Step two.
After sawing off the stem, you need to pull the bearing out of the car pump.
This can be done in two ways, saw the pump body with an angle grinder, and then get full access or remove it on the press. We choose any method you like, if the case is not a pity, then the first option will do.

Step three.
We fix metal corner 63 mm in size into a bench vice, further from it, using an angle grinder, we saw off two identical workpieces 150 mm long each, these parts will be the base of the tool.

I will clarify that the length is taken solely because of the size of the vise available, if you use this fixture on a workbench, then instead of a corner, you can use a sheet of metal.

Now you need to slightly modify the sawn off parts of the corners with an angle grinder, at the end of processing the part should look like this.

The rounded edges are made to give the tool beautiful view, as well as to reduce the risk of injury when working on it. We saw off with the help of angle grinders the 40th corner, its length should be 250 mm, we make the same roundings along the edges as with the previous corner, and in the structure itself we cut out a small square at the end.

Step five.
The parts for this homemade product are completely ready, it remains to fix them with each other in a certain order using a welding machine.

It should also be noted that the presence of a bearing from the pump is not a mandatory item; if not, you can freely install a cut of the shock absorber rod in its place.
Let's proceed directly to the welding of parts. When working with a welding machine, be careful, do not forget to wear a welding mask and leggings so as not to catch "bunnies" and not get burned.
First we fasten the large corners to each other and weld them together.

Using a hammer, remove the resulting slag at the weld.

Next, we weld the bearing to the outer race of the bearing with the number 6310, fixed in a vice.

Step six.
Now we weld the shock absorber rod to the base of the two corners.
We weld a handle from the remaining segment of the rod to the large bearing, and for greater strength we weld small triangular metal plates.

The part with the handle must be welded to the rod, which is attached to the base, for this we put 1 mm thick plates for a gap, this will ensure free movement without jamming even after painting.

Using a welding machine, we weld the inner race of the bearing to the rod by welding, for fixing we use quick-clamp clamps.

After the part is stuck in several places with welding points, we thoroughly weld the parts, and then take out the plates and check how the movable mechanism rotates. We weld a 40 mm corner to the rod and the inner race of the bearing, in which a cutout for the rod is just made.

In the end, it remains to clean the homemade product with a metal brush and paint it with a can of hammer paint.
Step seven.
After the paint has dried, the tool can be checked in action.