Methods for making a forge forging with your own hands. Forge forge: device, fuel, designs, drawings, how to make your own Melting forge with your own hands

In blacksmithing, a forge is used to warm up and heat up metal blanks before heat treatment. The operating temperature in this device rises to 1200 degrees. By design, the device can be stationary and mobile (that is, it can be placed directly in a specially equipped forge or transferred to a place convenient for work). For industry, equipment is equipped with various devices, for domestic use the bugle is made in the simplest version.

Features of a household blacksmith forge

Because of high cost melting plants, not every user can buy such equipment for special purposes. For domestic needs, it is not difficult to assemble a gas forge forge with your own hands subject to the correct determination of the form, power and structure of the pressurization system. Household simple forge for artistic forging or non-ferrous metal castings can be assembled from several fireclay bricks and sheet steel.

Making a horn at home for working with ferrous metal is not difficult. Craft the simplest design it is possible from a metal container, in the side of which it is necessary to make a hole for a gas burner. The fuel supply system can be assembled from a piece of pipe and a coupling; long bolts are suitable for the support structure under the tank. The lining of the gas chamber is carried out by filling a solution of alabaster or gypsum, sand and water.

The horn must be equipped with a protective cover, a ceramic tube or a suitable bottle. After lining and drilling a hole for gas supply, the device is installed in convenient location but away from flammable materials. The advantages of the design include the ability to move the furnace, adjust the degree of heating of the workpiece, which is especially convenient when working with different forging materials.

The principle of operation of the installation

Before proceeding with the assembly of the thermal installation, you need to understand the principles of operation of a homemade forge for forging metal to simplify the design of the stove for home use. The operation of the device is based on the energy yield during the combustion of a mixture of carbon and oxygen, the percentage of metal release in molten form. During the smelting process, carbon stops the oxidation reaction of the metal, the constant blowing of gas into the fuel quickly increases the temperature in the hearth.

The process of heating metal requires certain skills and specific knowledge. It is not enough to assemble a mini-forge with your own hands, you need to learn how to control the supply of oxygen to the fuel, the volume of which should be no more than 95%. If the workpiece overheats, carburization of the metal occurs, the steel becomes brittle, turning into cast iron.

When developing a drawing of a future forging tool, special attention should be paid to the type of energy substance that affects the design of the hearth. By type of fuel for the furnace is:

gas (butane, propane);
liquid (diesel oil, fuel oil);
solid (charcoal, coke);
mixed (gas-liquid).

Depending on the planned work and the size of the workpiece, the thermal furnace can be with an open or closed hearth zone. Home master it should be remembered that household gas can be used in the hearth only after preliminary purification from sulfur by the method of "running" through liquid naphthalene. Products made of metal heated by a gas burner cannot be used as loaded parts.

The main requirement for the security of the wizard is the installation of a powerful forced ventilation system, even if a household soldering machine that runs on bottled gas is used for the forge device. The device will allow you to manufacture decorative elements interior and exterior in your own garage.

Making a stove from a blowtorch

When making a forging forging with your own hands, you need to install a blowtorch in a recess, along the perimeter of which lay fireclay bricks with a grate. When laying refractory bricks, it is necessary to observe the distance between the enclosing elements in order to ensure the flow of air masses into the combustion chamber. The angle of the blocks relative to each other building material determined by the master.

Charcoal or coke is poured into the recess, equipped with bricks on the grate, a pipe is put on the blowtorch, which is brought under the grate. The blank for forging is placed in the gap between brickwork, coal concentrate is ignited from below. To remove smoke, a probe, tent or chimney is installed above the grate.

Solid propellant forge device

The simplest model of a solid fuel device for a private forge is an outdoor open oven, which does not require the installation of a ventilation system. The construction of the structure provides for the pouring of reinforced concrete base, at the heart of the structure it is necessary to lay a wall brick. The table is set at a comfortable height, a hole for the blower is left in one wall.

The mountain hearth is laid out from fireclay bricks supported by steel corners; a cavity for the grate is left in the middle part of the structure. A chimney or a probe will help to ensure sufficient draft in the hearth, the air supply system is mounted at the final stage construction works. The installation of an electric fan in the chimney or the installation of bellows will help to strengthen the draft.

In the home forge, the tank for hardening parts and the gas-air chamber are not mandatory elements. They can be useful in the case when, in the process of working with damask steel, it is required to carry out thermal or shock hardening. In the gas-air chamber is carried out:

drying and heating of oxygen;
filtration of oxygen from condensate and impurities;
mixing air with filler substances for steel alloying.

To melt precious metals and create an alloy of non-ferrous metals, it is necessary to make a crucible from a heat-resistant material. The device, made in the form of a cap, allows you to increase the working temperature in the furnace without the risk of overheating the workpiece and the formation of soot.

Home forge on gas

For the manufacture of a simple home forge on gas, you can use parts from an old bicycle. If on lathe to turn the "asterisk" from the gearbox, the device can operate on butane or propane, heat closed small-volume horns. An important condition for using a portable design is the ban on the operation of the burner with acetylene, since the high temperature of the flame can burn the former "asterisk", and the furnace simply explodes.

It is not difficult to assemble such a device, while a home-made forging forge is not much inferior to industrial ones, but it is much cheaper. The main thing is to observe the safety rules in the manufacture and use.

Just for you. In this tutorial, I will tell you how to make a powerful mobile forging furnace. With this furnace, you can easily perform metal forging, the temperature here is more than enough. And, of course, now there will be no problem with steel hardening. And if you wish, if you come up with a forge, with the help of this device you can completely melt aluminum and other metals with a not very high melting point.

The stove is powered by coal, and in order to heat it up to the desired temperature, you will need forced filing air. For these purposes, the author used a small electric compressor. It can be powered by a battery, so we do not need an outlet. Directly the place of burning is made of a metal barrel, also suitable gas bottle. And the frame in which the compressor and battery are installed is made of boards, it is simple and practical. So, let's consider in order how to make a forge furnace.

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- ;
- copper or others metal pipes, as well as corners;
- tap;
- boards;
- plastic brackets for pipes;
- self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts;
- steel barrel or gas cylinder;
- steel corner;
- aluminum corner;
- foil;
- glue (to glue the foil);
- heat-resistant sealant;
- heat-resistant paint.

List of tools:
- drill;
- drilling machine;
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- gas-burner;
- screwdriver;
- welding;
- a hacksaw for wood or a cutting machine.

Forging Furnace Manufacturing Process:

Step one. Frame assembly
To assemble the frame, we need boards. We cut them into the desired pieces, and then assemble the frame with self-tapping screws. If desired, glue, sealant, and so on can be applied to the joined surfaces. I note right away that the original design was redone, as there were problems due to high temperature. The frame is made only for equipment, and the furnace itself was made of metal in the future.
To strengthen the structure, the author pulled it together with long bolts and nuts. They will also serve as a support for pallets.

Step two. Fastener for
To install the compressor, we will make an adapter for it, into which the bow will be inserted. To make it, we need a board, as well as a drill with special nozzles. In the end, we just need to cut a “washer” out of wood.
We fix the made washer in the right place of the frame with the help of self-tapping screws.

Step three. Collecting pipes
To transport air to the destination, the author decided to use copper pipes. It's not very a good option, since copper transfers heat well, so the length of the pipes should be maximum. Otherwise, heat can reach the compressor and melt the plastic. Pipes can be used metal, and you can simply bend them into desired length coil. The author assembles the desired design, soldering is used to connect the parts.

Step four. Making a battery clamp
We will power the system from a battery, so to install it, you need to make a clamp. For these purposes, we will need an aluminum plate. With the help of a vise and a special nozzle, the author forms it in the form of the letter "P". However, this can be done with a regular vise or even pliers if you have a good eye. Drill holes for fastening the clamp with screws to the base.
We drill holes at the base, on the other hand, the author installs nuts. That's all, now the clamp will be very convenient to tighten using the screws.

Step five. Finishing the frame with foil
Initially, the author planned to install several pallets on a wooden case, on which coals would burn. And to further protect the wood, he glued it with foil. Now, even if the coal falls from the pallet, the wood should not catch fire, and the foil itself works as a heat shield.

Step six. Installing the stuffing
First of all, we install pipes; plastic holders were used for their fastening. It's not very reliable option if the pipes get very hot. We also install a compressor, for its fastening the author used an aluminum corner.
At the end, we fix the battery, earlier we made a clamp for it from an aluminum plate.

Step seven. The final stage of assembly and testing (first attempt)
Now we will install pallets into which we will pour coals, the author has two of them. We drill a hole in the pallets and insert a steel pipe that will supply air to the furnace. The pallets are in a hanging state, they rest on two bolts installed across the frame.

That's all, now the oven can be tested! We fall asleep coals and kindle with a burner or liquid for ignition. The oven worked perfectly, but there were problems. The pallets heat up so much that they burned the foil under them, and the heat also began to burn the wood. As a result, this design collapsed, and it was decided to redo it.

Step eight. Making a furnace from a cylinder
The author cut off the part of the frame on which the pallets were located. It was decided to make the furnace more reliable. As a result, as the source material was taken metal barrel A gas bottle will also work. If you use a balloon, do not forget to clean it well of the contents, there are a lot of instructions and recommendations on the Internet for this, otherwise everything can end in an explosion and serious injuries.

First of all, we clean the balloon from paint, for this the author uses a grinder with a suitable nozzle. Next, cut off the bottom of the balloon at a suitable height. At the end, we cut a “window” in the workpiece through which you will use the oven.

Step nine. Manufacturing of mounting brackets
To attach the oven to wooden structure with a compressor, you need two corners. We cut the corner to the desired length, bend the edges at the desired angle. Also, to strengthen the connection, you will need two steel plates.

Drill holes in the corners and plates for fastening parts with self-tapping screws. In addition, the author welded pieces of pipes to the corners, resulting in excellent legs.

Step ten. We make a "tray" for the furnace and install
The pallet is needed so that coals burn on it, to which air enters from below, these are a kind of grate. For these purposes, we need Sheet steel, and it should be as thick as possible, since a thin one will quickly burn out from high temperature. From steel, you need to cut a circle of such a diameter so that it can go inside the furnace as tightly as possible.

Now many men are inflamed with a passion for blacksmithing. The beauty of red-hot metal, transforming before our eyes into a beautiful forged product, fascinates. Many of those who want to join this craft are frightened by the technical side of the issue: where to get or make a forge, what tools are needed, how to equip a forge so that a fire does not happen, etc. Here we will consider only the question of how to make a forge at home. All other issues, if there is a strong desire, can also be easily resolved.

Blacksmith craft involves the presence of a forge and is not so difficult to create even at home.

Varieties of the blacksmith's forge

A forge is a special device for heating metal.

He can be the most different designs and use different kinds fuel. Lone blacksmiths prefer to use a forge that runs on coke. This type of fuel has a rather high price, but at the same time, its ease of use, as well as high combustion temperature and a small amount of waste, compensates for any costs. One of the varieties of fine coke is called "coke", most craftsmen prefer to use it, since there is no need to chop the coal yourself. Other types of coal can be used as fuel, as well as wood, but why take the worst if you want to do everything right? Petroleum products or natural gas are usually used in large plants.

The second sign by which the forge can be divided into varieties is its design feature, as openness, that is, there are open and closed types of forge.

Scheme of the device of a mobile forge of open type.

A closed horn is a little more difficult to make than an open horn. Its peculiarity is that the device has a special chamber in which the metal is heated. This type of forge is much more economical, but it imposes a limit on the size of the workpiece outside of its chamber.

The most common simple type of forge is the open one. It is extremely simply arranged, as it consists of a certain container. A grate is installed on top, on which coals will burn, and air is supplied from below. Such a hearth has no restrictions on the size of the workpiece; it is laid for heating directly on hot coals.

Well, how we love wild abstruse definitions: special heating devices in order to increase the plastic characteristics of the metal. Let's try to translate all this disgrace into human language.

The forge is essentially a stove. It is clear that with its own characteristics, varieties and technological nuances, but still - this is a stove. It is needed to heat metal parts to a temperature so that they can be forged, that is, subjected to deformation.

This is the main and general fact for all kinds of forges - from primitive country crafts on bricks to industrial furnaces with many technological features of application and purpose.

Two main and only properties are required from a forge furnace: to give a very high temperature, up to 1200 - 1500 ° C and the ability to maintain the desired temperature for a certain time. In other words, we need a strong and even heat.

At what temperature can metals be forged, that is, they begin to be ductile? This is different for all metals and alloys. But a visual sign that the metal part has heated up to the desired temperature is also common - this is the orange color of the part.

All metals respond to heat by changing color from dark red to piercing white. So the orange color is a signal that you can start real blacksmithing on metal.

Drawing of a blacksmith's forge.

The only metal that behaves rather meanly and does not change its color when heated is aluminum. It is not the easiest metal to forge and weld in principle, with aluminum there are many special requirements to be aware of and apply.

So here is the absence orange color while it was already heated for forging - a significant factor that makes it difficult to work with this capricious metal and its alloys. After all, you can't overheat. Underheating is also no good.

Classification of forges

There are several criteria by which you can breed all these stoves into neat types.

Most often, forges are divided according to the type of fuel on which they work:

solid fuel forges

They work on coal. Their use is becoming rarer, as coal is a fuel that does not give a stable and even fire, which is the most important requirement for a forge. Not only that, such stoves require not just coal, but high-quality coking wood or coal of the same quality.

There are lovers of such exotics, so below we will focus on a couple of tips on arranging such a stove.

Gas forges

We will talk about this type of stoves in detail: they are the most common in both home handicraft workshops and professionally equipped blacksmith centers. The gas forge is without a doubt the favorite tool of domestic blacksmiths.

liquid

Here the main type of fuel is fuel oil.

Coal forge.

According to the design solution, the forges are divided into closed and open. They are small, medium and large in size. That, in fact, is the whole classification of blacksmith forges. A homemade forging forge is a very real thing and, most importantly, necessary in the household.

The main thing is to decide what kind of bugle will suit you. And for this, you must clearly know what kind of blacksmith products you are going to make, for whom and in what quantity.

The basic design of a homemade forge

The first question is: what kind of horn to make - open or closed? The answer will depend on your plans - what are you going to do in your blacksmith shop? If this is a hobby in the form of artistic forging in small quantities exclusively for the home and gifts for relatives, then it will be quite enough for you to get an open forge.

It is much simpler and will cost you less in terms of cash and labor costs. On an open hearth, it is easier to heat massive or long parts.

If you plan to work with metals seriously in order, for example, to earn money, then we would advise you to build a closed-type forge with your own hands.

Here are the details that make up a well-assembled forge:

frame on racks for support, everything should be made of steel;
under - the bottom or lower part of the furnace wall;
gate valve with special holes to accelerate the heating of the metal and save fuel;
fan;
smoke exhaust pipe
lining - thermal protection of the stove in the form of fireclay bricks;
heat exchanger - a special device for recovering the heat released in the form of furnace gases and, thus, effective use resources.

Building a solid fuel forge

The main disadvantage of solid fuel hearths is that coal itself cannot produce the desired temperature above 1000 ° C. Therefore, in such stoves, an air jet is always needed. Previously, these were furs, now more often air is supplied through a pipe with a welded end, also made of steel.

The easiest way is to dig such a stove right in the ground - it is enough to cover the hole with refractory bricks. A homemade forge can be made differently: from a steel plate with a decent thickness, build a table with a grate of cast iron or steel.

Grate for the forge.

The plate for the table must be made from a blank with a thickness of at least 5 mm. If the bugle open design installed outdoors, it will not be necessary to specially deal with ventilation.

Here are the main steps for building a homemade coal-fired forge:

Build a platform for the base with concrete and reinforced rods.
Fold the bricks in the form of a rectangular base, the surface of the table can be of any height.
Make a hole for the blower in any wall of the base.
Assemble the underside of special refractory bricks on the base.
Install a grate with holes, which must also be made from refractory material, for which the cast-iron door from the old stove is perfect.
After installing the grate, report the walls from the same refractory brick.
Do not forget to leave a hole in one wall for air supply, it is better to do this immediately when laying bricks.
Install a fan in the air supply pipe.
If you are making a closed structure, be sure to build a chimney, which is absolutely necessary for draft.

Such a horn can be made mobile - it all depends on you. An old gas stove can serve as an excellent frame for a solid fuel forge.

Building a gas furnace

Before you start building a gas forge with your own hands, you need to determine the parameters of the hearth - its area.

There is a tricky formula for this:

N is the productivity of the hearth, which depends on the tension H and the area of the hearth F. It is calculated that the gas supply rate in the range from 1 to 1.5 m/s is sufficient to optimally maintain the required temperature in the hearth.

Scheme of a gas burner for a forge.

You know the area of your workshop and the approximate number of forging parts in kilograms that you plan to produce. With this data, you derive the tension of the hearth with a maximum allowable upper limit of 150 kg/m².

Required materials to get started:

refractory brick type dinas or fireclay;
plates with a thickness of at least 5 mm from heat-resistant steel;
steel profile for racks, frame and forge damper;
pipe for the chimney and ventilation duct made of steel;
putty for sealing cracks between bricks with heat-resistant properties;
sheet metal or an additional layer of refractory bricks for lining on the outside;
from double-circuit boilers of high power;
fan;

Gas forges can also be open. With it, everything is much simpler, it will be enough to arrange grates with air supply for greater heating efficiency. In this case, combustion gases are removed by a fan made of heat-resistant metal.

The support frame is best placed close to one of the walls of your workshop. The choice of wall must be made taking into account the fact that a chimney and a ventilation pipe will be needed, so it is better not to use adjacent walls, if any.

The most important condition is the strict observance of the rules fire safety, which consists in using only refractory and heat-resistant materials. It doesn't hurt to check what the walls of your workshop are made of. We treat all kinds of drywall constructions with great care.

Racks and the frame itself are best welded from low-alloy steel according to drawings that can be downloaded on the Internet. Low alloy steel is strong, light and, most importantly, resistant to specific high-temperature corrosion. The outer lining must be thought out in advance in order to immediately make holes in the support frame for its fastening.

Now about refractory bricks and masonry. It is important to buy real certified fireclay bricks made in accordance with GOST 390-79. If you buy a non-standard brick, you run the risk that ordinary bricks will start to melt in you already at a temperature of 1000 ° C.

Real cream-colored fireclay bricks with small pores in small quantities, they are much heavier than ordinary ceramic ones, the weight of one fireclay brick of large dimensions reaches 5 kg. The most suitable brands of fireclay are ShB, ShA and ShPD.

Forge device.

The second type of refractory bricks is dinas. These bricks are more expensive, but more resistant to high temperatures: they withstand the regime with a level of 1800 ° C. They are lighter than fireclay bricks due to the high proportion of silicon salts in their composition.

If you have the opportunity, it is better to lay out the hearth with dinas bricks: forges made of refractory dinas bricks are more durable and withstand the most severe temperature conditions.

Lay the bricks with a mortar of refractory clay with the addition of chamotte and dinas powder in a clear proportion of 60:40. Treat the chimney and fan around the perimeter with metal corners.

The most important final stage is the drying of the entire structure. After it, you need to check how the fans for the forge forge work. And only then it will be possible to make a test inclusion.

How to make a gas stove burner

In addition to general instructions on how to make a forge, there are rules for installing a gas burner. gas forge can be purchased at the store, or can be made independently.

Do-it-yourself gas furnace burner must be made with the obligatory consideration of the requirements for it:

gas ignition must be completely safe;
combustion must be stable;
resistance to humidity inside the hearth;
safety when changing thrust and the risk of an explosion of a combustible substance.

The burner is installed through a pre-prepared lining hole. The mouth of the burner is attached to the confuser, which is pulled through a steel gasket. Then pipes for supplying gas and air are installed.

Gas is supplied from or network controlled by regulators. A test run of gas is carried out to check the regulators and pressure, monitor the smell.

If you are one of those people who melt metal in their hands, and you dream of your forge, then you need a blacksmith's forge. We invite you to use our example, and you can make a forge for yourself with your own hands, which will help you master the art of blacksmithing.

Carpentry or carpentry is, of course, good. Wood processing is traditional for Rus'. But we want to talk about metal. More precisely, about the forging of metal. What do you need to do forging? The first is the blacksmith's forge.

You may be surprised, but the forge is the easiest forge to organize.

The task of the forge is to heat a piece of metal to a temperature that will allow it to be crushed without destruction.

The horn is, of course, fire. You can burn gas, liquid fuel, fuel oil or crude oil, coal and firewood. Only now firewood gives little heat until it turns into coal. Firewood can only be considered as a raw material for obtaining charcoal, but already charcoal is an excellent fuel for the forge. Perhaps the best, but also the most expensive, although the most affordable. Charcoal for barbecues and barbecues is sold in any supermarket. So let's stop at the coal version.

If we talk about a forge that runs on coal, then there are two options: with a side blast and with a lower one. Side blowing is the best suited for charcoal, and also the easiest to implement. The simplest option- a hole in the ground where air is supplied through a pipe. You can also lay out a hearth of bricks and roll it with earth.

With the help of such a forge, novice blacksmiths try their hand. A hose is inserted into the pipe, connected to the blowing hole of the vacuum cleaner.

The disadvantage of this forge is that you have to work while squatting, and this is not very convenient. However, you can put together a box of the required height, fill it with earth and make a forge in it. But if you go this way, then you should do something more capital. There is one more thing. A side blast hearth is not very suitable for hard coal, while a bottom blast hearth through a grate is more versatile in this regard. That is, a forge with a lower blast can work on both charcoal and stone. But the design will be more complicated.

We will need:

steel sheet five millimeters thick about 100x100 cm;
sheet steel 2 mm thick;
corner 30x30;
six fireclay bricks ShB-8;
angle grinder, popularly called "Bulgarian";
sweep circle;
cutting wheels for cutting steel and stone;
welding machine and electrodes;
two wing screws (eye nut).

The horn consists of a table with a horn nest. Below, under the forge nest, there is an ash chamber where air is supplied. The table is made of steel sheet with a thickness of five millimeters. The size of the table is arbitrary, but it is more convenient when you can freely place work pliers, a poker and a scoop on it so that they are at hand. We cut off a strip 125 mm wide from a five-millimeter sheet, it will still be useful to us, and we make a table from the remaining piece.

Diagram of a horn with a horn nest

In the middle we cut a square hole for the future mountain nest. Here you need to decide on the size of the nest. big nest will require a lot of coal. A small one will not allow heating large workpieces. The depth of the nest to the grate also matters. Without going into details, let's say that a depth of ten centimeters will be optimal, regardless of the size of the nest in the plan.

To prevent the metal from burning out, it must be lined (overlaid) with fireclay bricks. We use brick ShB-8. Its dimensions are 250x124x65 mm. These dimensions will determine the size of the forge nest - 12.5 cm at the grate, 25 at the top, 10 cm deep. Given the thickness of the brick, the size of the hole in the table will be 38x38 cm.

From the cut piece we cut out a square with a side of 25 cm. In the center of the square we cut a square hole with a side of 12 cm. We also need four plates in the form of an isosceles trapezoid with base lengths of 38 and 25 cm, a height of 12.5 cm. So the strip cut off earlier came in handy . Now we need to weld it all.

From two millimeter steel, we roll a square pipe with a side of 12 and a length of 20-25 cm. This will be an ash collector. In the middle of one of the walls we make a hole for the duct. We weld a pipe into the hole. We use a piece of ordinary water pipe for 40.

The bottom of the ash receptacle is closed with a lid. We do it on the screws with the lamb.

The table is ready. It remains to place it on the base or weld legs to it from the corner. You can make a base of foam concrete blocks.

We pay attention to the opening. An air duct will pass through it.

Using a grinder with a cutting disc on a stone, we cut out a lining from a brick. Be sure to use a respirator and goggles. And follow the safety precautions when working with angle grinders.

You can connect a vacuum cleaner and try to kindle a forge.

First, lay the chips and finely chopped firewood. We set fire to them with a weak blast, and when the firewood flares up well, we fill it with coal. Now you can increase the blow.

The vacuum cleaner can be connected not directly to the air duct of the forge, but through a homemade air supply regulator. This device allows you to adjust the amount of air supplied to the hearth, that is, to reduce or increase the blast.

Usually, a damper is installed to regulate the air supply to the duct. But blocking the flow increases the load on the vacuum cleaner motor. The vacuum cleaner is usually used old, and in order not to overload it, an air supply regulator is built. The air flow is not blocked, but diverted to another duct. For this, a box with three pipes was made. Two opposite each other - the entrance from the pump and the exit to the furnace. The third branch pipe, on the upper wall, is the discharge of excess air. The third branch pipe is shifted relative to the first two by the value of the diameter of the holes.

Inside is a plate bent at a right angle, half the length of the box wide. The plate can be moved from one extreme position to another by means of a wire rod. As far as the hole for supplying air to the horn is blocked, the discharge hole will open just as much.

The box is closed with a lid with a hole for traction.

Now we have a working forge suitable for outdoor use. To protect from rain, you need a canopy, which must be non-flammable. A forge needs an umbrella and a pipe to collect and remove smoke.

We make an umbrella from sheet iron two millimeters thick. Firstly, such an umbrella will last longer, and secondly, it is more difficult to cook thinner iron by manual arc welding.

For the umbrella to be as effective as possible, the slope of its walls must be at least sixty degrees to the horizon. The umbrella should be located above the hearth so that an imaginary beam directed from the hearth point closest to the edge, tilted outward at an angle of sixty degrees to the plane of the table, falls inside the umbrella. This means that the higher the umbrella above the hearth, the larger it should be. On the other hand, the lower the umbrella above the table, the more inconvenient it is to work. Here we must proceed from the available material and our anthropometric data.

The umbrella is supported by angle steel posts. We put a pipe on top of the umbrella, which we also weld from a steel sheet of two. The pipe must be covered with a spark arrester, which is made of a metal mesh.

If you direct the air discharged from the throttle through the air duct (it will go water pipe 1 inch) to the beginning chimney, then you get an ejector that increases the efficiency of flue gas removal.