How to make a round table? How to make a solid wooden round table with your own hands Do-it-yourself round table on one leg

The round table highlights any room and looks elegant, emphasizing the unusual taste of the homeowner. The correct form with smooth outlines contributes to a relaxed, trusting atmosphere. It is not difficult to assemble a round table with your own hands, the main thing is to have the desire and follow the recommendations of the masters.

Varieties of round tables

The surface of the countertop of a round product is always round. The highlight is
the number of legs and their fastening to each other, as well as the material from which the components are made. One leg can be replaced with an exquisite cabinet, where you can place useful kitchen gizmos or appliances. Some also build in open shelves or drawers.

When making a round table, it is better to choose solid wood. The tree is environmentally friendly, safe to use, equally suitable for classic and modern interior rooms. What else create homemade countertops that do nothing
inferior to purchased products?

1. Chipboard, MDF.
2. Plywood sheets.
3. Natural stone or high-quality imitation.
4. Thick glass.
5. Plastic.
6. Metal.

What you need to make a wooden round table

Before taking on manual work, table parameters reflect on the detailed sketch. We offer right now to learn how to make a round table made of wood, equipped with three stable legs. From materials you will need timber and boards, wood glue for working with wood, three metal corners (they will be attached to each leg). Fastenings are represented by self-tapping screws. The table is protected by a waterproof compound that is coated on the wood. It can be replaced with varnish.

List of tools without which the work can be delayed:

• pencil or marker;
• ruler or wooden meter, tape measure;
• saw, electric jigsaw;
• screwdriver, screwdriver;
• drill and drills for it;
• clamps;
• brushes for processing the finished product;
• grinding equipment and sandpaper with different sizes of abrasive;
• large compass (construction).

Instructions for creating a round table made of wood

When the materials and tools are collected, you can start creating the product:

1. Apply carpentry adhesive composition on the ends of the boards, connect them. Tighten the structure with clamps. To make the tabletop reliable, fix it with slats, turning the surface inside out.
2. Armed with a construction compass, draw the circumference of the table. If there is no equipment, screw 2 bars using a self-tapping screw at the required angle. On one bar, fix the awl with tape, on the other - a pencil. Draw a line. Measure the circumference with a meter. If you are not sure about the same distance, measure and get rid of the bumps by hand.
3. The circle is cut out with a jigsaw. When reinforcing the countertop with slats, this step may take longer.
4. To make the surface smooth and pleasant to the touch, without burrs, process with a grinder. Go around the edges with sandpaper. Ideal look - there should be no chips on the countertop and ends.
5. The edges around the edges require rounding.
6. The legs are created from a bar measuring 40 × 40 mm. Get rid of excess length exceeding 70 cm and sand with a machine, emery.
7. Fix on the areas where you plan to fix the legs, metal corners. To ensure that they are located in the same plane, place the leg on a flat surface with the side with which you fix it to the table top. Attach the corners and mark with a pencil where they should be located. Next, fix the corners to the supports with self-tapping screws.
8. Place the table on stands to ensure stability.
9. Connect the legs to each other with crossbars.
10. Apply 2 coats of water repellent. Each must dry, this will take at least 8 hours.
11. Treat all internal and external surfaces of a homemade piece of furniture with varnish. To get a gloss and a rich shade, you need 3-4 layers of varnish.

How to set up a safe glass table

If a completely wooden table seems ordinary to you, the countertop can be replaced with a glass surface. Glass is bought shockproof, with a thickness of 5 mm or more. It is unique in that it can withstand heavy loads, does not crack or break. Mechanical damage can only be caused by a strong point blow to the rib. And even if this happens, the glass will not fall apart into fragments, but will turn into rectangular pieces that are not dangerous to humans.

As you understand, to cut such glass, you need special equipment. Contact the workshop for help. Remind the craftsman to sand the glass circle, round the edges, and polish the felt circle with polishing paste.

You can fix the finished circle to chrome legs equipped with heels. They are fixed with glue, which exhibits its properties under the action of a UV lamp. Another reliable option fasteners - make holes in the glass circle with a drill bit with an abrasive and insert nickels into them. If the drill slips, plasticine is molded onto the glass and water is poured, a smaller bar is made and placed inside. When you start drilling, gradually add water to the glass.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be meaningful and even key element interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called joiners, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate from the living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and better - with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

Wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; complete plastic replacement they don't have yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tool and skills table for the gazebo, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for tables industrial production fastened with split sides, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover PVC end edging (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

Table base with non-removable legs - simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, very complex and time-consuming, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

Table in main room at home should be to face the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be striking for the time being, and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. factory same coffee table-transformer rarely when it pulls less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality for moderate this class products price. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the tabletop (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or removes a very complex mechanism back into the underframe, but it manual options available to make at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at first.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

Making your own round will help save money.

The result is an elegant piece of furniture that will match personal preferences and fit perfectly into the design of the room.

It is necessary to carefully consider the design of the product, select materials and draw up a drawing.

It is very popular in the manufacture of tables. It is characterized by advantages over other materials:

Wood provides ample opportunities in the field of processing and painting..

Based on financial capabilities, you can make a table from inexpensive soft wood: cedar or pine. The material is easy to process, but it is prone to shrinkage and deformation. Solid wood (birch, beech, oak) is more expensive because it is moisture resistant. Acacia, yew, hornbeam are superhard rocks with a dense structure. Their cost is high.

To make a round table, you can also choose simple materials - MDF sheets or. The material is tear resistant and durable.

Important! To create a piece of furniture, it is better to buy plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 35 mm.

A disk is cut out of plywood - the basis for attaching the legs and connecting the table structure.

An inexpensive and practical table will be made from MDF. The material is characterized by:

• high strength;
• resistance to deformation;
• safety and environmental friendliness.

High-quality furniture is made from MDF panels. Thanks to a wide color scheme easy to choose the right texture.

Scheme and drawing

Before making a drawing, you need to decide on the design of the product. original variants- a round table on one support, single-support four-column. You can make a traditional table with four legs.

Reference. The design solutions of round tables are not limited to the number of legs. The interior item can be folding or sliding, transformer, with built-in shelves in the lower part.

Before drawing up a drawing, you need to decide on the dimensions of the future product. Depending on the purpose, the table can be large, medium or small. The dimensions of the room in which the piece of furniture will be located are also taken into account.

Reference. You can draw a drawing yourself or modify the option found on the Internet.

For hand-made circuit making, it is advisable to use a special computer program and print the circuit.

The table includes 4 elements:

• whole;
• support disk;
• cross bars (4 pieces);
• (4 - classic version).

To make a drawing with your own hands, do the following:

1. Draw a circle using a compass right size on thick paper.
2. Cut out the circle.
3. Folds are made through the center (4 times).

The result will be 8 identical parts. 5 cm recede from the edge on each face and put down dots, connect them in series.

Tools

Before assembling a piece of furniture, it is necessary to prepare tools and other inventory:

To fasten the mounting nodes, you need PVA glue.

Manufacturing and assembly

Table blanks sawed out with a jigsaw according to drawings. Every detail is cleaned with sandpaper.

Lay out on a diagram and connect the workpieces together with glue. A disk is cut out of plywood according to a paper template. The legs are made of timber with a section of 12x5 cm.

Reference. If we take a standard bar 3.5 m long as a basis, 4 legs of 76 cm each are obtained from it. This is the optimal size.

The circle is glued to the finished bars. Inside, cut out bars of a given size and grind them. Next steps:

1. Harvested Parts fix with glue in the circle made and pressed from above.
2. When the platter is ready, fasten the legs using 4 bolts, having previously made holes for them. Initially, a plane with a diameter of 0.8 cm is drilled, then an end face of 0.5 cm.
3. Form a countertop and cross bars.

Attention! The dimensions of the crossbars depend on the parameters of the standard workpiece. The length of plywood is one and a half meters. The diameter of the outer support must be 128 cm and 104 cm internal. The legs are installed inside the flat part. Plank dimensions 12x106 cm.

Finishing

When the table is ready and the glue at the attachment points dries, you can proceed to the decorative finish. A piece of furniture can be coated with paint or stain, treated with a transparent furniture varnish using a foam roller. The table used in the country house in the garden can be coated with water-based acrylic paint.

There are many ways to make a table a stylish decoration for a kitchen or living room. decoration:

Original finish "under glass":

1. On the surface of the table make indentations various shapes.
2. Fill in recesses dry flowers, pebbles, fragments of colored glass.
3. Above cover with glass, cut out under the parameters of the table.

Dining round table will look impressive if you decorate it

Useful video

Conclusion

Thus, making a round table with your own hands will not be difficult even with minimal carpentry skills. It is necessary to outline the scope of work, determine the size of a piece of furniture, correctly draw up a drawing and choose a method of decorative finishing.

In contact with

We continue to equip the summer cottage. Today we’ll talk about how and with what to fill the dining area or recreation area. It is difficult to imagine a cozy gazebo or a shady canopy without a table and comfortable benches or chairs.

Today, garden furniture manufacturers offer a huge variety of tables: large and small, wooden, forged, wicker or plastic.

Of course, you can buy a finished product, but many prefer to make garden furniture with your own hands.

About how and from what material to make a table, how to decorate the countertop will be discussed in this article.

Design and construction depend on where the product will be installed. The table can be placed in country house, on a semi-open space (terrace or pergola), or on an open-air street, for example, on a lawn under a tree.

Classification of structures depending on the shape:

• rectangular or square - the most common shape, easy to manufacture;
• round or oval - accommodates a large number of people;
• triangular, with a wavy edge, hexagonal, etc. - impractical and difficult to manufacture shapes.

If guests are gathering at the dacha, a table that is elongated in length is convenient. It can be placed against the wall and moved away for the duration of the reception, increasing the number of seats. The rest of the time it is used for economic purposes, without cluttering up the area.

The table can be folding and ordinary. Folding is more difficult to make. For summer cottages, standard non-folding products are usually made with a quadrangular or rounded tabletop on four legs.

On summer cottages you can see furniture of the most unusual design, such as this low wide table in the photo, with wheels instead of legs, knocked together from massive boards taken from an old wooden pallet.

It can be placed in a country house or on a lawn.

The product can have the most primitive outlines, like this set in the photo, made from partially processed logs.

It is not difficult to make this kit even for a novice master - you will need the very minimum of tools and skills.

Paint and varnish materials and glue

Wood must be protected from decay by soaking it twice with a water-polymer emulsion with an interval of 3-5 days. If the parts are glued together, you will need BF-2 wood glue or building PVC.

Bonding technology:

1. Apply glue to both parts of the product.
2. Dry a little.
3. Connect details.
4. Keep loaded for 3 days.

If you plan to treat the tree with stain, varnish or paint, the composition must be applied before assembly.

When choosing a paintwork material, they proceed from where the product will be located - on outdoors or indoors. Outdoor garden furniture must be treated with outdoor paint: alkyd, nitrocellulose, oil. Furniture for the room is covered with more environmentally friendly compounds: acrylic paints, varnish.

Compatibility of compositions:

• alkyd varnish + Oil paint;
• acrylic lacquer + acrylic paint.

The order of mixing varnish and paint:

1. Add a small amount of varnish to the paint container and mix thoroughly.
2. Pour the resulting mixture into the rest of the varnish and stir.

If the task is to preserve and highlight the texture of the wood, and at the same time leave the countertop as environmentally friendly as possible, any water-based varnish will do. It does not smell, is not hazardous to health. On furniture covered with such a composition, you can put food without the risk of poisoning.

To make the protective film stronger, the composition is applied in 2-3 layers. The first is slightly diluted with water and used as a primer. It will soak into the wood. The last layers will create a decorative film.

The hardest varnish is parquet and yacht.

Any varnish can break if the product is used outdoors. Insufficiently elastic lacquer film cracks when temperature and air humidity change. Therefore, many experts recommend treating country furniture not with varnish, but with oil or oil wax. These compositions are hydrophobic, unlike varnish, they do not form a film that can crack, they are repairable.

The ideal option for coating wooden country furniture is wax and oil. The disadvantage of this finish is high price.

But, having spent about 2000 r. for a jar of composition, the buyer receives in return:

• a coating that can highlight the natural texture of wood;
• maximum wood protection;
• beautiful colour;
• 100% environmentally friendly.

The oil is applied in two layers.

In the photo, wood treated with oil wax:

What tools will be needed?

For work, you need the simplest set of tools.

Set hand tools:

• hammer;
• wrench;
• construction ruler-corner;
• measuring tape and pencil;
• brush;
• saw.

From the power tool you will need:

• drill with a set of drills;
• manual electric milling machine for cutting at the ends of parts of fastening elements (grooves, ridges).

Table top - options

The surface of the table can be made in two ways:

• prefabricated (from several boards);
• monolithic.

The first way to do big tables with long and wide tabletops, the dimensions of which allow you to receive many guests at once.

There are several ways to join boards for countertops. In some cases, you can not do without ordinary nails.

Schemes of options for docking boards for countertops:

To get a beautiful and even countertop, nails need to be driven in correctly:

• when working with solid wood, nails are driven into passages pre-drilled with a drill with a diameter smaller than that of fasteners;
• when punching through the boards, the fasteners should be 30% longer than the thickness of the lumber;
• the end of the nail is bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the fibers of the wood material, otherwise the board will crack;
• so that the attachment point is as reliable as possible, the fasteners are driven in a little obliquely;
• when making a key with reinforcement, the nails are driven in in a checkerboard pattern.

For the manufacture of a monolithic carpentry shield, you will need a jointer - a special long planer for finishing the surface.

An elementary way to assemble a monolithic surface is to glue several boards and strengthen the fastening using the tenon-groove method. You can immediately buy a tongue-and-groove board, assemble the countertop and fasten it additionally from below cross bar screwed on with self-tapping screws. This is how massive, durable and rough-looking tables are built, which fit perfectly into country interiors.

A monolithic countertop must have a protective edge around the entire perimeter. It is made from 4 bars made from the hardest wood, such as birch. It is better not to use oak, as its wood is too heavy.

Cover installation:

• along the edges of the tabletop, a one-sided comb is made with a manual milling cutter or a circular saw;
• grooves are made in the beam corresponding to the thickness and shape of the ridge;
• glue the bars;
• tighten the countertop with a vise until the adhesive composition has completely hardened;
• to strengthen the fastening, they tighten the bar and the countertop with self-tapping screws, screwing them obliquely and drowning the hats in the wood (subsequently, the fasteners can be covered with wood putty).

Attaching the cover on the photo:

In the photo, the installation of underframe screeds:

Making a wooden round table with your own hands:

1. Buy lumber 250 mm wide of any length.
2. Fold the boards end to end and draw a circle of the desired diameter.
3. Cut with a jigsaw along the marked line.
4. Fasten the lumber together in the same way as in the case of a rectangular countertop.

To get a perfectly even edge, you will have to make a special device for a manual router out of plywood, which works like a compass.

The photo shows a round table, which is quite capable of being made by a novice master with his own hands:

Similarly, oval countertops are assembled.

The easiest way is to make a round table from a saw cut of a thick tree. Having covered the round with varnish, you can get the original product without excessive effort, as in the photo:

Table with straight legs

The legs are not attached directly to the tabletop, but to the support frame. This part is assembled from bars connected by metal corners. The frame is glued to the back of the tabletop, retreating from the edges of at least 2 cm.

It is better to additionally fix the part to the countertop from the inside with self-tapping screws.

The legs are cut from a bar of the required length.

Fixing the legs is the most difficult and responsible work in the manufacture of tables. The reliability of the entire structure depends on it.

Leg making:

1. Accurately measure and saw off parts with a saw desired length.
2. Put them together and check the length - it should be the same.
3. Glue the legs to the corners of the base frame where the parts meet each other (use a vise to hold it while the glue dries).
4. Additionally, secure the legs with self-tapping screws.

Master class on video:

X-shaped legs consist of three elements: two crossed slats and an upper horizontal support on which the countertop will be attached.

Manufacturing:

At all stages of work, glue is used to fasten parts and metal fasteners.

An example of a drawing of a table with x-shaped legs with dimensions:

Possible options

Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and, with the right approach, will organically fit into any room. Manufacturers wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:

• with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
• corner - help save interior space;
• transformers - multifunctional structures;
• folding and sliding - allow you to accommodate a large number of guests;
• "Books" - a common modification of a folding table.

It is noteworthy, but all of the listed options for tables can be made in artisanal conditions, literally from improvised materials.

Regardless of the design and shape, a homemade wooden table must meet two requirements. Firstly, to match the interior of the room, if you do not follow this rule, even a beautifully designed carved tabletop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.

Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.

Preparatory stage

Even a simple rectangular table with four legs cannot be made without some preparation. Let's figure out what the home master needs in the production process.

This is a prerequisite that will allow you to visualize the future table, determine the size and amount of material. Ready-made drawings can be searched on the Internet: many craftsmen willingly share the results of their work with Web users, describing in detail each stage of production.

If we are talking about a unique table design that you plan to create according to your own project, you cannot do without a drawing. You can draw a future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. It is recommended to pay special attention to the following points:

• external dimensions (length, width, height);
• fixing the legs to the tabletop. Round models usually have one support post located in the center, rectangular designs require 1 support at each corner;
• mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).

It is necessary to carefully consider how all the details of the table will be assembled together, what additional processing of the wood will be required before assembly or after it.

Material

It's no secret that wood different breeds has different properties and not the entire array is suitable for artisanal processing. Depending on the species, all wood can be divided into 3 groups.

Soft. This includes almost all conifers (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many hardwoods (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). Such material is easy to process, but the table made will require additional protective coating, especially if it is supposed to be used outdoors. Coniferous wood is dependent on external factors, prone to deformation and cracking. An exception, perhaps, is larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for the manufacture of tables.

Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Such a beam, even without impregnation, is resistant to a humid environment and the effects of direct sun rays, but in the process of processing you can not do without a power tool.

Heavy duty. This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is possible only in the workshops of industrial enterprises.

Tool

The simplest rough board table can be assembled with your own hands with just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for a more accurate execution, you will need additional tools:

• electric jigsaw;
• grinder;
• Screwdriver Set;
• drill with a set of drills of various diameters;
• roulette;
• simple pencil;
• square.

In addition, wood is recommended to be pre-treated with special antiseptics, which will make the finished product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sidewalls, then you will need special cutters. A great help to the master will be turning or milling machine on wood, but not everyone has such tools.

Homemade tables for a summer residence

The simplest and most practical option for arranging a summer cottage is a table made of wooden pallets. Unnecessary, at first glance, pallets are ready-made raw materials that require little to no additional processing, but offer several options for use. For example, from 2 pallets you can make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelving unit or for small friendly gatherings.

Such a design is made elementarily. One pallet is attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. Installation height is selected individually. The working part - the table top - is attached to the fixed base. The elements are articulated with each other by two chains that will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 loops are placed at the junctions of the pallets; in addition, a locking mechanism can be installed, for example, a hook that will hold such a table in the closed position.

More difficult option- a coffee table made of pallets that will look organic on a veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are carefully disassembled into their component parts, polished, painted. After that, the boards are knocked together into a rectangular tabletop, fixed around the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. This design is made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening tea parties and family holidays.

Using leftover building materials

Almost on any personal plot there are boards left after the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating a simple rectangular table that can be placed on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining or utility table.

Here you need to follow the following instructions:

assemble the frame

To do this, you need 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To save the geometry, we use a square. At the junctions, you can put iron corners, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;

fasten the legs

For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length is chosen arbitrarily: 80-100 cm. Support posts are installed with inside frame, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws;

stiffening rib

Approximately in the middle of the legs, an additional crossbar made of wood is nailed. A cross member is installed on both sides, making the structure more durable and stable. In addition, these crossbars can later be used to install a shelf where you can place dishes or other little things necessary in the household;

countertop

The remaining boards go here, which are best placed across the frame. The material is sawn with a hacksaw along the width of the table, attached to the frame with finishing nails.

At the final stage, all surfaces are treated with a grinder, primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in this case, the tree will last much longer. And if you walk along the boards with a brush for brushing and apply a stain on top, you get an antique table.

Table with benches

This option is great for a garden, a wooden structure is installed permanently, depending on the chosen size, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. A garden table and benches are made of boards separately, then the elements are fastened together threaded connection: steel studs.

The manufacturing process begins with benches. To do this, the boards are sawn to size, according to the drawn up drawings. To assemble the bench, you will need:

• 3 long boards who will go to the seat;
• 4 short pieces, cut at the edges at an angle of 45 ° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
• 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
• 1 board is shorter by 25-30 cm of the length of the seat - a stiffener.

Please note that all of the listed elements are duplicated, since there are supposed to be 2 benches for such a table.

Shops are assembled according to this scheme. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short crossbars. Legs are installed, which are clamped by the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, are pulled together with pins.

Seat boards are nailed on top of the frame. It is not necessary to put them close, it is better to leave small gaps.

The finished seats are interconnected by four boards 160-180 cm long. The fastening is carried out at the bottom of the legs in such a way that the support posts are clamped by the boards on both sides.

After preparing the base, a table is assembled. The tabletop and areas for mounting the support posts are made according to the principle similar to benches. The legs themselves are made cruciform, fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches. The result is a convenient kitchen table, made of wood with your own hands, which can be used for family holidays.

Round tables

Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table with your own hands from wood is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if in the courtyard of a multi-storey building or next to personal plot there is a felling of old trees, you can get the original round table top without any extra effort. For this, a saw cut of a tree made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable. Such a round shape 5-7 centimeters thick is varnished and can become a key table installed in the hallway.

If you are unlucky with fallen trees, you can create a round-shaped countertop on your own. This will require 4 boards of the following sizes:

• length - 2000 mm;
• width - 250 mm;
• thickness - 40 mm.

The boards are tightly connected to each other (not fastened), a circle of the desired diameter is drawn on the surface. After that, the boards are cut with an electric jigsaw exactly along the intended line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs from the bars. The shape is selected depending on the number of legs. If 3 support posts are supposed, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The tabletop is installed with the help of corners, after assembly the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, then it can be installed in the apartment in the kitchen or in the living room.

An oval table is assembled according to a similar principle. The only difference is that on the interconnected boards, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-ovals along the ends. Boards are cut with a jigsaw along the line. The frame is also made of bars, but has a strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be located 10-20 cm from the edge of the countertop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, for the manufacture of carved supports, certain knowledge will be required, so it is better to order such elements at furniture production.

Computer desk

If we are talking about a factory product, computer desk appears to be a rather complex structure. It has a pull-out keyboard shelf, storage boxes for discs and other items that require experience to make. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of parts necessary for working at a computer.

Here you can try something like this:

• steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle made of corrugated pipe with 4 support posts. On the one hand, a frame is immediately made under the shelf where the system unit will stand, and two similar elements from the other end;
• the countertop is made from cut-to-size boards or a fiberboard sheet;
• shelves are made of a material similar to the countertop.

All elements are interconnected by a threaded connection or a corner. Of course, such a design is inferior to factory counterparts in terms of external design, but it is many times cheaper and does its job quite well.

Wooden outdoor table

Undoubtedly, the most malleable and environmentally friendly material is wood. Wooden table can be made round, square, rectangular or irregular shape, it all depends on the size of the gazebo or the number of seats. As a tabletop leg, you can use a regular stump.

The shape and appearance of the table largely depends on the style of your country house and exterior. A log house can be supplemented with furniture made from logs and boards. The main tool for processing parts is Sander, since the surfaces of the tabletop and benches must be smooth, without notches.

The tabletop can be made from slats or a narrow board, strung on metal rods, or by connecting them with short slats.

A table made of wooden saw cuts looks interesting, especially if there are paths from the same elements on the site.

There are several ways to make such a table:

• connect the saw cuts to each other with brackets or tongue and groove, forming a flat surface;
• fix the cuts on some kind of base (in this case, the parts must be of the same thickness to form a flat surface). The product must be sanded and varnished. If desired, the gaps between the cuts are filled epoxy resin, after drying of which, the surface is polished again and covered with a protective compound.

A garden table made of wood with benches, made of a single design, looks great both in the gazebo and in the open area.

It's easy to make. Use the diagram below to make your own drawing and calculate materials.

When drawing up a drawing, consider some generally accepted standards:

• bench seat height from ground level - 400-500 mm;
• seat width - 300-400 mm;
• tabletop height from floor level - 700-750 mm;
• tabletop width - 580-900 mm.

The length of the table and benches is individual. The figure shows an example of the manufacture of a table with benches located on two long sides of the tabletop. Similarly, you can make a design with benches on four sides.

And here is a variant of a small round table with stationary benches-stools for four seats. It is easy to move it to the place you need at the moment: to an open area, under a canopy or in a house.

If you wish, you can purchase or make your own folding garden furniture, which can be easily installed in any part of the garden or in the house.

Such furniture will last longer, as it will not be constantly exposed to precipitation. The weight of such products is small, they can be easily and quickly transferred to a permanent storage place in a house or barn, where they do not take up much space.

In order for the product to serve for a long time, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic and coated with varnish, wax or paint. To give the wood the desired shade, use a stain or a special impregnation with pigment.

We select wood

So, as noted above, wood is the most suitable material for the manufacture of furniture for the bath. It is incapable of heating up as much as metal, with appropriate processing it does not deteriorate from steam, like chipboard, does not emit harmful substances from hot air, like plastic, and also creates a special atmosphere of coziness and comfort.

The main requirement for the wood that the master is going to use in order to make a table with his own hands: it should not be resinous.

Firstly, the heat will make the resin stand out, and secondly, such a tree has a rich specific smell, which not everyone likes. Therefore, conifers are not used, especially when it comes to making a table for a steam room.

Wood must meet the following requirements:

• low heat conductivity;
• high density;
• ease of processing;
• lack of flaws (knots, wormholes, rot).

In addition, the masters recommend choosing the material in such a way that it looks nice, has a beautiful texture and color. The latter is selected taking into account the fact that the tree must be treated with stain, varnish or other special impregnations. They will protect the material from the effects of water and steam.

Of the types common in our area, tables for use in the bath are most often made from the following breeds:

• poplar;
• Linden;
• aspen;
• alder.

Let's talk a little about each of the breeds. Oak is a strong and reliable material, has a high density. But it can play a disservice during assembly: dried wood sometimes cracks when screws are screwed in. Therefore, during assembly, it is better to drill holes for fasteners. Linden is softer, has a beautiful structure and looks good in the interior of the bath.

Poplar has a beautiful wood, well processed, like aspen. The latter is famous for its resistance to various kinds of bark beetles and mold. And this breed is also famous for the absence of knots and other small inclusions characteristic of other breeds.

Alder has a similar structure, it is easily processed. Due to the structure of its wood, alder can be "disguised" as more expensive species.

Making a table

Having stopped his choice on a suitable material and presenting the shape of the future table, the master should draw up a drawing. standard sizes for a table for six people are as follows:

• height (legs and tabletop) - 740 millimeters;
• length - 1400 millimeters;
• width - 800 millimeters.

Dimensions may vary, the master can make his own calculations based on individual needs.

To work, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• ruler;
• corner;
• level;
• marker or pencil;
• hacksaw;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• Grinder.

In addition, nails or screws will be needed.

At the first stage, boards and bars are made for the table top, legs and table joints. Having cut out the parts of the desired size from wood, they are ground so that there are no gaps and cracks between the boards during assembly.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the structure, wooden parts are coated with protective compounds, insect and mold impregnations. But varnishing bath tables is not recommended, especially if they are located in the steam room itself or next to it. A layer of varnish to emphasize the texture of the material can only be applied if the table will stand in a rest room where there is no high temperature and humidity.

When assembling the structure, both self-tapping screws and furniture bolts can be used for its fastening. They look beautiful, giving the homemade table a “signature” look.

In conclusion, we note that the furniture must match the interior and design of the room. Only then will a commonality of all components be created and the bath will look like a single whole. Therefore, the shape of the table, its dimensions and color are selected by each master individually, taking into account the general style.

Now that our readers know how to make a wooden bath table, this task will not seem overwhelming to them. And after a short time, the owner of the bathhouse will receive guests for beautiful table handcrafted.

Material selection

Let's start with the fact that the vast majority of craftsmen will make a wooden sauna table. And what else to put in a wooden or wood-lined bathhouse? Who even thinks of doing high-tech on the site? So the question of the material can be safely reformulated into the question of the type of wood.

When it comes to lounge furniture, we have no (!) restrictions on the choice of wood.

ATTENTION! Humidity in the bath when taking procedures is always increased in any of the rooms.

But high humidity is not a reason to give up some preferences, you just need to take care of protecting the surface of the tree.

So, you can consider breeds by other qualities. Particularly in terms of hardness. By this criterion, we select the following classes for an example:

Everyone also knows about the division of species into coniferous and deciduous, which speaks primarily of the content of resins and, at times, the number of knots (conifers often have more of them).

You can choose the right wood by color, texture, and cut direction, but this is aesthetics (although the cut direction also affects the physical and mechanical properties). There are sound and non-core species, that is, either there is or there is no color difference between the inner (core) and outer (sapwood) parts of the wood. The core with the core is usually darker than the outer one.

IMPORTANT! It's good if you have a moisture meter with you when you buy wood. Standard humidity should be 12-18%.

Remember that wood that is too wet can become unusable when dried, because warping is almost irreversible.

So, if you decide to make a table in a wooden bath with your own hands, then you need to decide on the tools (if it is manual, then softer rocks may be preferable, although it will be easier to accidentally damage them in the future), with what the sellers offer in your area, with a budget (the cheapest species are aspen, pine, spruce, linden). In general, any tree is suitable, and then - according to the circumstances.

Design choice

Material and design can be selected in parallel, although one does not depend on the other in any way. The shape of the table can be any, but still the number of basic options is limited:

• square;
• rectangular;
• round;
• oval;
• polyhedron.

This is about the shape of the tabletop. In addition, it can be retractable.

The number of legs at the table can vary:

• one;
• four.

As for three legs - a variant, of course, rare, but possible. If the number of legs is less than three, then their stability will directly depend on the crossbars on the floor on which these legs are installed. For a one-legged one, this will be a cross, for a two-legged one, a single perpendicular on each leg.

In addition to the tabletop and legs, there may be other structural details. These include the transverse beam, which connects the legs, if there are two of them at the table, as well as strips that mask the junctions of the legs with the frame, which at the same time give rigidity to the structure.

Yes, and it would also be worth mentioning the folding tables, which can be used not only in the rest room, but also in other rooms. Such a table is mounted on the wall, when folded it takes up very little space, and when unfolded it is no worse than a stationary table.

BY THE WAY! Those who love the original may remember hanging tables, like on a ship.

Sizes that are comfortable for a person

This moment cannot be avoided in any way: there is a certain relationship between the size of the table and how many people can comfortably (or without it) fit behind it. Therefore, each owner of a bathhouse should estimate in advance how many people will most likely gather at the table in the relaxation room or on the veranda at the same time.

Second an important factor the choice of size (and, possibly, shape), will be the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. After all, you need not just to place a table, but to make sure that the person sits down and gets up from the table freely, so that there is a place for passage, etc. To do this, you need to add a few more parameters to the dimensions of the table - the width and depth of the seat, the width of the seat of one person at the table, and also the minimum width of the passage.

For our part, we will give the standards of ergonomics, which is the science of how to adapt things to the human anatomy.

REMEMBER! To make it comfortable to sit at the table, a person needs 70 cm of space. This is called seat depth (see picture). Add these 70 cm to the dimensions of the table from all sides - you get a spot that you allocate for this area. The minimum passage behind the seated person, if necessary, must be at least half a meter.

Now the dimensions of the countertops themselves (according to the estimated capacity):

A person is comfortable at the table if he is provided with at least 60 cm of table space in width. It's minimum.

A double table of square or round shape must be 60 cm in side or in diameter. However, the "spot" of the zone, together with the chairs, is calculated as 120 by 210 for a square and 120 by 200 for a circle.

A triple table is possible only for a round shape, but the dimensions increase: the table diameter is 80 cm, the spots are 220 cm.

Quadruple seating can be either cruciform or parallel. The side of the square is 85 cm, the side of the spot is 225 cm. The diameter of the circle is 90, the spots are 230 cm. The rectangle is 85 by 125 cm, the spot is 185x225 cm.

Five-seater - circle 100 cm, spot 240; rectangle, measuring 135 by 85 cm, spot - 235 by 225 cm.

Six-seater - three types. Circle: diameter 120, spot 260, rectangle parallel seating - 85x175, spot - 235x225 cm, around the perimeter - 85x145 cm, spot - 285x225 cm.

We will probably stop at eight-seaters. Circle - 140 cm in diameter, spot 2.8 meters. Rectangle: parallel seating - 80 x 250 cm, spot 220x285 cm along the perimeter - 85 x 195 cm, spot 225x285 cm.

Also worth mentioning is the design called the "corner". It looks cozy and fills the space well. The module of the proposed scheme is a seat measuring 55x55 cm. A corner measuring 220 by 165 cm is composed of them. The table is also square with a square side of 85 cm. Single seats in front of the table are the same dimensions as the module.

In principle, the schemes that we have given above can already be a source of inspiration when creating a table.

Next, we present several drawings that we found in the vastness of the worldwide computer network. We do not claim authorship and do not know their authors, therefore we cannot provide links to primary sources (see appeal to copyright holders).

Let's go through the options already mentioned above. Let's start with a one-legged table made in the form of a polyhedron. It rests on a cross, and for greater strength (and, in part, more decorativeness), the connections of the leg with the cross and the tabletop are reinforced with braces. Parts are fastened with glue and self-tapping screws.

The table on two legs also looks very attractive in the rest room. In addition, it is not difficult to manufacture. As can be seen from the drawing, the cross beam is inserted into the holes made for it in the legs and fixed with pins.

Three-legged tables are not used for feasts. Therefore, we will immediately move on to the "classic" - a table with four legs.

As you can see, the table is very simple, without frills, but correct in design and suitable for manufacturing even for beginners.

Here we will take it as the basis of our instructions.

How to do: instruction

So the model is quite simple. She doesn't even need an expensive tool.

Tools

• any saw - hand, miter, circular, even a jigsaw;
• (possibly) an electric drill with drills for the diameter of the dowels;
• any grinder - manual, grinder, ordinary electric.

ATTENTION! It is assumed that you purchased high-quality material, and you do not have to joint the boards, bringing them to the same dimensions.

Material

• boards 30x100, 20x100 mm;
• beam 60 mm section;
• glue;
• self-tapping screws;
• (possibly) dowels.

Actions

First you need to file the parts of the desired size in accordance with the drawing. These will be:

• 7 boards 30x100 mm, 120 cm long;
• 2 boards 20x100, 100 cm long;
• 2 boards 20x100, 62 cm long;
• 2 boards 30x100, 58 cm long;
• 4 bars 60 mm in cross section, 67 cm long.

In details of 58 cm, grooves are cut at both ends for the legs of the table - 60x60 mm. From future legs, a chamfer is removed from one (only one!) Of the corners.

The surface of all parts is pre-treated by grinding.

ADVICE! A second sanding can be done after the table surface has been varnished for the first time.

Now like this important point: fastening parts is variable. They can be put on self-tapping screws, on screws, on dowels with glue. In addition, the methods can be combined.

Since we do not provide for turning any of the usual carpentry joints of parts, we decided that in some cases, dowels can be used to improve the reliability of fastening. An alternative way would be to mount metal corner. But first things first.

So, you have processed all the blanks. We start assembly.

First of all, the tabletop boards are laid on a flat surface and fixed. Then, according to the drawing, 58 cm boards are placed on them, which fasten the countertop with self-tapping screws. They are screwed in from below, and along the length they should go into the tabletop board by about half its thickness. That is, the length of the screw or self-tapping screw is 2 + 1.5 = 3.5 cm.

The next step is to attach the legs to the grooves in the crossbars we just screwed on. We recommend gluing the connection, and then also fixing it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in perpendicularly, fastening the leg to both sides of the groove.

To increase the rigidity and strength of the structure, you also need to make side ribs. Please note that the side ribs on the short sides have where to fasten even without the participation of the countertop - there is a bar along the entire length, and the side ribs along the long side are fixed only 10 cm from each end.

Therefore, we offer two options: either connect them to the table top with dowels, or a metal corner screwed on the inside of the rib.

If dowels are chosen, then three on each of the two long sides are sufficient. Under the dowels with an electric drill, holes are drilled half the thickness of the board. The connection is put on glue.

IMPORTANT! Why are dowels better than a corner? The fact is that any wood joints tend to "breathe", which loosens any metal fasteners over time (therefore, they should be tightened sometimes), and the wooden dowel moves with the tree.

You can put one corner in the middle or several along the entire length - this is optional.

This table is ready.

Option 1. A round dining table that is easy to make even for a beginner

Materials:

For a tabletop: a square of birch plywood or laminated chipboard 1500x1500 mm. For a binder ring: a square with a side of 1280 mm of the same material. For table legs, 4 bars 120x50x750 mm are needed. and 2 strips measuring 1110x120x25 from the material of the countertop.

First, we cut out the countertop, the underframe ring, the planks. Moreover, the edges must be carefully sanded. The next step is to make a base for a round table:

In the slats, we cut out grooves for a cruciform connection (Fig. 2). We connect the slats groove into the groove. With the help of confirmations, we connect the legs with the slats, as shown in Fig. 3. We attach the finished pairs of legs to the connecting ring, also using confirmations (in Fig. 1, 2). We attach the tabletop to the underframe using self-tapping screws , 35-40 mm long.

We carefully grind all the surfaces of the table and paint it in the desired color - if the table is not made of chipboard. We close the heads of confirmations with plugs to match the color of the table.

Everything, the process is completed - you can enjoy the well-deserved comfort for a round dining table!

If the size of your kitchen does not allow even a small round table to be placed there, and your dream is to dine at just such a table, do not be discouraged. Making your own folding round table is almost as easy: it will require a little more material and a few additional fasteners.

Folding round table - one base, several options

Folding round table, made according to the principle of a book table - best option for a medium sized kitchen.

Having folded one semicircular wing, it can be placed along the wall, and if necessary, you can move it to the center of the room and sit behind it with the whole large company.

Knowing the principles of connection wooden parts, from diagram No. 4 above, you can easily understand the entire design of the folding round table. All dimensions are affixed - it is only necessary to decipher some designations.

1 and 2 - table top, and part 1 is static, and 2 is movable;

3 - legs of a round folding table attached to the bars of the crossbeams 4.5 and 6 with the help of metal furniture corners (end, flat - 2 for each leg);

Moreover, the crossbar 5 cuts into the crossbar 4 exactly in the middle, and the crossbar 6, together with the leg, serves as a support for the folding part of the round table and moves on the simplest hinge, arranged from a conventional bolt (the turning point is marked with a cross).

7 - removable decorative strip, fastened with wooden dowels to the end part of the folding "wing".

8 - stopper of the movable leg.

It remains to be added that the procedure for making a table remains the same: cutting, fitting parts, assembly, finishing. Your dream came true with your own hands, congratulations!

Not only in the country, but also in the apartment, furniture made independently can serve as a real decoration of the interior. And to make, for example, a round table with your own hands is not at all difficult. In this case, you can take into account the dimensions that are necessary for you. And then the whole family will be able to gather on the veranda or in the living room for a gala dinner or evening tea. It is only necessary to decide in advance on the upcoming front of work.

Figure 1. Scheme of a round wooden table.

Preliminary installation steps

Many novice craftsmen have a question about how to make a round table on their own. It is believed that this form of countertops is difficult to manufacture. But if you know some of the nuances and tricks of the upcoming work, then even a novice carpenter will cope with the assembly. First of all, you need to decide on the design of future furniture. The drawing of the simplest self assembly table is shown in fig. 1.

In this case, the furniture consists of the following elements:

• solid tabletop;
• support disc (bundle under the tabletop);
• cross bars (stiffening ribs) - 2 pcs.;
• legs - 4 pcs.

In the diagram shown, the cross bars are simply superimposed on each other and fixed to each other. If you make the legs of the furniture long enough, then the sitting people will not touch them with their knees. But a more reliable fastening will turn out if you put one bar into another, forming the corresponding grooves in them.

Figure 2. Scheme of assembly of round table parts.

In addition, one bar can consist of two parts. Then the crossbars are fixed between themselves with corners and they are also attached to the tabletop. In this case general design It turns out stable, but not too beautiful.

For the manufacture of countertops and supports for it, a separate drawing will be required. His example is shown in Fig. 2.

You can provide your own dimensions and make the necessary adjustments to the table layout. But cutting such a countertop is quite difficult. Much easier to go to the workshop. An experienced craftsman will make parts of any shape according to your size.

If you decide to make a round table yourself, then you must first draw the desired part on the wood, then drill holes along the entire diameter (at a distance of 5-7 mm from each other). And only then cut the element by inserting the jigsaw blade into the first hole. In this case, it is easier to use power tools.

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Necessary materials and tools

The easiest way is to make a table with your own hands from an MDF sheet or thick enough plywood. In this case, the thickness of the material should not be less than 35 mm. Instead of plywood, you can use ready-made furniture board, but in this case, the cost of the entire product will increase significantly.

Figure 3. Drawing of a round table top.

The lower disk, which serves as the basis for attaching the legs and connecting the structure to the tabletop, is cut out of plywood 20-30 mm thick. This will be enough to securely fix all the elements together and not damage the table top. From the same sheet cut out the transverse strips.

The legs are made from a bar with a section of 12x5 cm. If you take a standard bar, the length of which is 3.5, then from one workpiece you can get 4 legs of 76 cm each. This size is considered optimal.

To process parts and mount the table, you will need the following tools:

• an electric drill and a set of drills designed for woodworking;
• jigsaw;
• grinder or a special nozzle for a drill;
• a set of hex keys of different sizes;
• screwdrivers;
• a set of sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• paint brushes and foam roller.

For additional reliability, experts recommend coating all attachment points and mounting points with wood glue or PVA. In this case, the fixed parts must be pulled together with clamps and left until the adhesive is completely dry. And only then proceed with the installation.

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Assembly of the round table

First you need to cut out all the blanks for assembling the table. Experienced carpenters advise pre-processing each of the elements in 4 steps. Polish first wooden surface, then varnish it. And after drying, repeat the operation.

The fact is that even after very thorough initial sanding, wood fibers can begin to bristle under a layer of varnish. This can spoil the appearance of the table, and later burrs form on the surface. If you are going not to varnish the furniture, but to cover it with stain, then the procedure must be repeated 3 times.

After the blanks are completely dry, you can begin to assemble the table. General scheme assembly is shown in Fig. 3.

First, the legs are fixed to the support disk. As fasteners, you can use ordinary self-tapping screws.

But the design will turn out to be more reliable and stable if you take confirmations (Eurobolts).

Then the table will be able to withstand a large load.

But it is wiser to take not standard, but elongated mounts (0.5x18 mm). Legs are attached with 4 screws. First you need to prepare nests for confirmations. First, the plane is drilled, and then the end face. In the first case, the diameter of the nest should be 0.8 cm, and in the second - 0.5 cm.

Next, the table top and cross bars are formed. The diameter of these parts depends on the dimensions of the standard workpiece. The side length of ordinary plywood is 1.5 m. Therefore, the outer diameter of the support element will be 128 cm, and the inner diameter will be 104 cm. The legs are installed with the flat part inside. Accordingly, the dimensions of the bar will be 12x106 cm.