How to make a drywall wall with your own hands without any hassle? Building a drywall wall with your own hands is easy! Building a plasterboard wall

Make a redevelopment in the apartment, divide the space in a private house or just embody the original design solution- a drywall wall is a universal option. And thanks to the ease of installation, even a beginner can handle its installation!

What you need to know about profiles and drywall?

The desired dimensions of the rooms will be somewhat different from those planned, because part of the area will be “eaten” new wall. To understand what to expect in the end, you need to know the width of the profiles and the thickness of the drywall sheets (GKL).

Characteristics of profiles and their purpose

Before you buy materials and start marking rooms, you need to understand the purpose and differences between the profiles. So, according to their purpose, they are guides (PN) and rack-mount (PS).

As the name implies, the guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling and vertical racks are already inserted into it.

• D - rack and guide profiles 60x27 mm and 27x28 mm, respectively, designed to fix drywall on one side only;
• W - profiles for the formation of a full-fledged wall, sewn on both sides;
• C - rack profiles with a rib height of 50 mm;
• U - guides with a rib height of 40 mm;
• 50, 75, 100 - the width of the profile, which must match the racks and rails.

For example, marking CW 100 means that this is a rack wall profile with dimensions of 50x100 mm. It requires a guide profile UW 100 (40x100 mm). When choosing a profile, you need to focus on the desired thickness of the insulation / sound insulation. So, for profiles with a width of 75 mm, a standard insulation laid in one layer (for example, mineral wool) is suitable.

The length of the profiles also depends on their purpose. The guides are produced in the same length - 3 m, but the racks can be 3, 3.5 and 4 m. The thing is that it is highly recommended not to “build up” the guides in height - this will weaken the entire structure and can lead to cracks. Therefore, before buying racks, you need to measure the height of the ceilings.

Drywall sheets - thickness, dimensions and characteristics

Wall drywall is available with a thickness of 12.5 mm - this is its minimum allowable value. The load on the wall in this case cannot exceed 40 kg per square meter. Such a sheet is quite enough for finishing for painting or even laying tiles with your own hands. If you plan to install heavy equipment, shelves or other interior elements, you should choose sheets:

• 15 mm thick - for loads from 40 to 50 kg;
• 18 mm thick - for loads up to 70 kg;
• double sheets - for large loads from 70 kg.

The dimensions of the sheets are standard - the width is 120 cm, and the height can be from 2 m to 3 m in increments of 0.5 m. Also, do not forget that only moisture-resistant GKL is suitable for the wall in the bathroom. Also, fire-resistant sheets are becoming more and more popular - they do not flare up, but slowly smolder and quickly go out in the absence of a source of fire.

Based on these data, it is possible to determine the dimensions of the future room - at least 8.75 cm must be retreated from the initial markup (7.5 cm for the profile + 1.25 cm for drywall). If it is necessary to lay in the walls water pipes or large diameter corrugated cables, the walls are built from two rows of CD and UD profiles, and the width of the wall will depend on the chosen distance between them.

Plasterboard wall installation

Often, there are no perfectly even walls, especially in houses of old buildings, therefore, when dividing a room, you need to bind not to one, but to two opposite walls. This will minimize the visual unevenness of the future space.

If all surfaces are sheathed with drywall, before making a new wall, first, with the help of profiles and plasterboards, the existing ones are maximally leveled. This will allow you to achieve even right angles, which will greatly simplify the finishing work in the future.

Profile mounting

Installing profiles is quite simple, but requires a lot of precision. To align the racks, it is advisable to purchase a laser level to speed up the process, but you can limit yourself to the usual plumb line. Installation is carried out in stages:

1. The profiles adjacent to the walls, floor and ceiling are pre-pasted with sealing tape. It performs a shock-absorbing and soundproofing function.



2. PNs are attached to the floor and ceiling along a pre-marked line in increments of up to 1 m. wooden surface- self-tapping screws 50 cm long, and to concrete - dowels 75 cm long. In the second case, it is necessary to pre-drill holes with a perforator.



3. Both load-bearing and rack-mount profiles can be fixed to the walls. It is important to remember that it must be continuous, therefore, with a ceiling height of more than 3 m, only longer substations will have to be used.
4. If a doorway is provided, a gap is left in the floor profile in this place for the width of the opening. It is important to decide in advance on the width of the door - if the standard leaf is 80 cm, then the doorway must be made 88 cm (for installation door frame).
5. PS begin to install from the doorway - they will determine its width. First, the profile is fixed on the floor, after which it is leveled and fixed on the ceiling.
6. The step of installing the racks is any convenient. Often they are placed to fasten sheets along the edges and in the center - therefore, you need to know in advance the dimensions of the plasterboard. The joints of the sheets should fall in the middle of the PS, this must be taken into account when installing profiles.



7. The more often the step of the racks, the higher the strength of the wall, but also the higher the final cost. Also, to make it more rigid, they insert into the profiles limiting the doorway wooden beam or carrier profile. For the same purpose, transverse struts made of PS are used, reinforced with the same beam. They are installed in places of horizontal joints of the GKL.





8. A jumper is also installed above the doorway. The height depends on the size of the door. For a standard two-meter canvas, the height should be 205 cm.
9. The jumper is made of PS, which is cut 20-30 cm longer. On each side, retreating from the edge of 10-15 cm, respectively, cuts of 45⁰ are made on the side walls so that the bevel is directed outward. The cut sides are folded down, giving the profile a U-shape. (9) The vertical sides are put on the posts and fastened with metal screws. The corners sticking out after cutting on the horizontal part are also screwed to the racks - this ensures maximum fastening reliability.

Important nuances of drywall installation

The sheets are attached to the profiles with special self-tapping screws with a press washer - they do not pierce the cardboard, but are well embedded in the sheet. To improve the quality of seaming, all cut edges are chamfered from the upper side (for factory edges, this is not necessary, it is already there).

The main task of repair in apartments and houses is to bring the walls back to normal. Just a few decades ago, almost no one heard of perfectly even walls. Aligned, based on the principle of "at least somehow." The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: remove the old plaster and re-plaster the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls with GKL (plasterboard sheets).

The second task, which is most often solved in the process of repair work, is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed, and new ones are mounted in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using drywall. This article will discuss how to level and install drywall walls with your own hands: photo, video.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when it becomes necessary to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching drywall sheets to walls:

1. On a base of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, however, it is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate, first you have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cutting off the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fasteners on wooden bars is that when not dry enough (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they can “lead” during drying, therefore, the whole structure will warp. There is also the possibility of destruction of wood by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since lumber prices are much lower than profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a frame made of galvanized profile allows you to get a perfectly flat surface with any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled, so that the front part of the jumper and the rack lie in the same plane. Since the plasterboards are at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of the frame from the profile is the possibility of laying a sound pickup and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without a heater it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of drywall sheets immediately on the walls.

In other words, installing GKL on glue. Use "liquid nails" or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with slight differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in heaps, if there are differences, and in strips, if the walls are even), then the sheet is mounted in place, set using a level, fixed with props and wedges.

The latest technology - landing drywall on glue, the fastest, however, it also has disadvantages. Not everywhere there is glue under the sheets, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you previously planned to fix something to the wall, install a mortgage beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences, the surface is not perfectly smooth (difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the "pieces" of glue, the GKL bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video

So, when sticking a sheet on a wall, no fasteners are required, we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The fastening rules for wood are exactly the same, they just use special self-tapping screws for wood.

The purpose of drywall sheets and their dimensions

A few words about how to put GKL on the walls and what sizes they are. The standard dimensions are: height - 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are "non-standard", slightly shorter lengths. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm - designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm - universal material for ceiling and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets, such as those used to finish uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be deployed inside the room.

How to join sheets

If it becomes necessary to join drywall sheets in height, try to arrange the joints so that a long line does not form, they are laid with a shift or apart, it is desirable that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By shifting the seam, with almost one hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed offset by half the width (60 centimeters).

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall mounting rules: photo, video

During installation, drywall sheets are pressed against the frame and fastened with special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 self-tapping screws (25x3.5 mm), in stores they are called “for drywall”. Color - white or black (more often breaks), length - 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, flat-head self-tapping screws of similar size are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the desired depth: the cap should be drowned in the sheet, while not tearing the cardboard, it must also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, so you reduce the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each drywall sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls on the middle of the profile.

Having indented from the edge of 10-12 millimeters, screws are screwed in. They can be displaced or placed above one another. Mounting step - 250-300 millimeters. Mounted on the middle profile and around the perimeter.

Another important point is the height of the installed sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for the change in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Partition for a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photo, video

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step.

1. Markup.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If there is no laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and a building level ( High Quality). Then, using the level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting line should be located strictly above the line on the floor, this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on it.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the marked line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW - bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6 * 60 or 6 * 40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is not more than 40 centimeters.

PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. From the width of the carrier profile will depend on how thick soundproof material or insulation can be laid there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the bearing capacity, make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the carrier, they must be identical. It is between them that a heater is installed.

Racks to rails are attached in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides, fastens two parts. Fans, during independent repair work with GKL, are attached to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (the holes do not need to be drilled). On each side of the rack is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

An important point, if you put a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the junction of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent the appearance of creaking. During walking, a vibration occurs that is transmitted to the profiles, as a result, the profiles rub, and a creak occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the drywall sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If, however, the gap is more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or in this area the sheet will bend and stagger. Another important point lies in the fact that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is fixed with screws inside the profile. To prevent the timber from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are stiffened with the help of jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are located at the height of the joining of two sheets, they must be fixed. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, put 80 cm each, if it is small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are a prerequisite for plasterboard sheathing. It is also desirable to strengthen them with a wooden bar.

1. Laying communications, plasterboard walls with your own hands: photo, video.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin to lay electrical wiring and communications. It is desirable to install all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on wooden frame or in wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses / apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked "NG").

1. Sheathing with heat / sound insulation and drywall.

After laying communications, they begin to mount drywall sheets. They are installed exactly as when sheathing. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with plasterboard on the other side. For partitions and walls use conventional insulation.

• Styrofoam. One of the varieties of foam. Differs in cells of the closed form thanks to what possesses the best performance: fungi do not develop, do not like rodents, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and is easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. Minus - high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent characteristics in terms of heat and sound insulation, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg / m3). It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burning, it releases hazardous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This is stone wool (basalt is best), slag wool or glass wool. Basalt is considered the most environmentally friendly, because it does not contain formaldehyde. It is quite easy to work with them, they hold well by surprise, they are easy to cut, they are less afraid of moisture, they do not need respiratory and skin protection during installation. Their downside is high price. The most affordable option of these heaters is slag wool, glass wool has an average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other heaters, but the ones listed above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When sheathing walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. This will require a clerical knife, a long, even object (rule, level, timber, board, ruler, etc.) and wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you want to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video tutorials

Unfortunately, not all features of this process can be described, some are better to see with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. Since this is really one of the most time-consuming work, and how well the frame is formed depends on how even the partition and wall will be.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really tough. This method must be used if a full-fledged partition between rooms is erected from the GKL, in which case the reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: grooved or smooth?

The market has various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of the metal, it is stiffer. How good it is in practice, look at the video.

The layout of any living space is a purely personal matter, and what one likes may not suit others radically. In order to be able to make your own adjustments, reshape the space for yourself, there is a simple but reliable way that involves the use of drywall sheets, which even a beginner can work with. The main thing is to know exactly how to make a wall from this material.

Peculiarities

The house is a real fortress for everyone, therefore it is so important to equip it in such a way as to feel confident, comfortable and good in it. Buying a new home or changing the number of occupants of an old one may require redevelopment of the space so that everyone is comfortable in it. In an old house, additional space may be needed if there is a replenishment in the family or one of the relatives needs a personal closed space in which to be alone.

The issue of planning in new buildings of a free type becomes especially acute., where there are no clear boundaries of the room, and each tenant can make the design that he likes. erect brick walls it is possible, this has its advantages, because such a design will last a long time and nothing will happen to it. But it is not easy to build such piers, and most importantly, it requires a large amount of materials. For those who have never laid a brick, it will not be easy to cope with this task and make a high-quality and durable partition.

In view of all these circumstances, one of the most simple and convenient options is the construction of plasterboard walls. Such designs are easy to make on your own and even non-professionals can do this process. In this matter, it is important to know what is needed to build a wall and what difficulties you will face.

Plasterboard wall has a number of important advantages compared to brick - it is easy to install, does not create big weight on the floor due to the framework of thin profiles and plain sheets, the thickness of which does not exceed a centimeter.

Another factor that can be considered an advantage of such structures is the possibility of erecting partitions, walls and partitions without obtaining the appropriate permission for redevelopment, which will speed up the process and eliminate unnecessary procedures. For work on creating new boundaries of the premises, it is necessary to determine what and where will change, mark the territory and calculate how much materials will be needed.

Drywall sheets are quite compact in thickness and when stacked one on top of the other, a lot of material can be brought at once. Its weight is also small.

In order for the new walls to be warm and not let in sound, insulation and sound insulation are placed inside the structure. It is possible to conduct wiring in it, install a switch and a socket so that the functionality of the room does not suffer from its redevelopment.

When planning the alteration of large-scale objects, it is important to understand how justified the use of this or that material will be, therefore it is simply necessary to clearly understand what the pros and cons of drywall are and what exactly it will allow you to create in a residential area.

Advantages and disadvantages

The use of drywall made it possible to obtain fantastic opportunities that were previously extremely difficult, if not impossible, to implement using brick as the main material and building walls, piers and partitions from it.

From this material indoors you can make:

• a wall that will divide the room;
• a partition that will allow you to zone the space or give decorative effect due to the intricate design;
• complex decorative design and achieve original shapes and textures in the room.

A feature of drywall is the ease of working with it. In order to build a wall, you need to form a frame and sheathe it with sheets. frame structure can be both from metal profiles and from wood. The resulting structure is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

Sheets can be ordinary, waterproof and flame retardant, their choice will be dictated by the place where the new wall or partition is being created. When one wall is sheathed, glass or mineral wool so that the piers not only help to divide the room into two parts, but also perform the function of heating and sound protection.

Among the advantages of this material are:

• ease of installation of structures of any type and complexity;
• the ability to erect structures of any shape and type;
• when carrying out work on the construction of walls or partitions, you do not need to have any special or expensive tools;
• inside the wall, you can put wiring, a telephone cable, an air duct, which makes it also functional;

• the resulting wall will be absolutely even and smooth, therefore, the work on its alignment will be reduced to grouting the joints between the plates and puttying the entire surface for further decorative work;
• after all preparatory work the finished wall can be painted in any color, wallpapered or even tiled.

This material also has its drawbacks, which include:

• change in the properties of the material upon contact with water, drywall can swell from this;
• any load must be thought out in advance and the place of attachment of the picture, sconce, lamp or lamp must be initially strengthened;
• too heavy objects should not be installed on this surface, which should be initially taken into account when planning and determining the places of each decor element.

So, with the help of drywall, you can make a wall of any shape and appearance, which can only be imagined, while the sound insulation and heat in the room will be at high level, because for this, the corresponding filling is placed inside the structure. Sockets with switches will allow you not to limit the possibilities of a new space.

Materials and tools

When planning the construction of a drywall wall, you need to choose the right materials and have everything with you. necessary tools so that the work process takes as little time as possible and does not take a lot of effort and energy. In order for the wall to be strong enough, a frame is erected for it from a metal profile. For for various purposes There are also different profiles.

Most often, for such structures, two options are used:

• Profile, but which will be attached directly to the drywall itself. It is smaller and conventionally designated as "D".
• A profile with which the main frame of the wall will be erected. It should be more powerful and larger, conventionally designated as "W".

For each of the above profiles, there are two more options, one of which is a support and is designated as "C", and the second is a guide and has the designation "U". The guide profile is simpler, it has the form of a U-shaped structure and smooth walls. The support profile is inserted end-to-end into it. It also has an additional difference from the guide in the form of ribbing, which gives greater strength to the material and does not allow spontaneous bending.

As the main load-bearing element of the frame, you need to use a supporting and smaller profile, to which the drywall sheet will be attached. Its size is 60 by 27 millimeters. As guides for fixing this design, you need to use a narrow guide profile with dimensions of 28 by 27 millimeters. In order to form a wall frame, you need to take a supporting and large profile with dimensions of 50 by 50, 50 by 75 or 50 by 100 millimeters. As a guide for this design, a large guide profile with dimensions of 50 by 40, 75 by 40, 100 by 40 is used.

There is another version of the profile, which is a thicker and reinforced version of the large supporting profile. For building simple walls used only wide profiles, but for more complex structures in which it is planned to lay any communications, it is already necessary to use thin profile options.

In order for the profile to be connected into a frame, you need to have a direct suspension or use a universal connector. The twisting process is carried out using small flea screws, which have a drill at the end. In addition, special self-tapping screws for metal are used, which have a countersunk head. To fix the frame to the wall, you can not do without plastic dowels and impact screws.

The optimal thickness of drywall sheets for the wall is 12.5 millimeters. A mandatory element should be a wide chamfer on the side of the sheet. Depending on the room, you need to choose the appropriate material - a moisture-resistant sheet is needed for the kitchen and bathroom, and for ordinary room Normal will do too. hallmark color will serve - for moisture-resistant sheets it is green, for ordinary sheets it is gray.

Thus, the crate of a drywall structure is most often made of a metal profile, but in some cases wood can also be used. Depending on the type of construction, it will be possible to choose one or another material and choose its thickness.

Tools that will be needed during the construction of walls from plasterboard sheets:

• tape measure not less than 3 meters long;
• level by 80 or 120 centimeters;
• plumb lines;
• fishing line with a rope;

• network or cordless screwdriver, hammer drill with nozzles for self-tapping screws;
• perforator;
• scissors that can cut metal;
• construction knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• plasterboard grater.

frame

In order to make a high-quality and even plasterboard wall, first of all, it will be necessary to erect a metal frame, on which the sheets will already be attached. In order for the installation to be carried out correctly, certain patterns must be taken into account. The first step will be marking the territory where the construction of the structure is planned. The next step is to check the evenness of the corners.

Due to the fact that the walls in the room are often not very even, when building a new wall, you need to focus not only on one wall, but also take into account two opposite sides. If the walls have too uneven corners, the easiest way is to cover each of them with drywall, which will align them. Only after that, approach the installation of a new profile.

To level the racks, a laser level is best., but if it is not there, you can apply a simple plumb line. Before mounting the profile for walls, ceiling and floor, you need to glue it with a special sealing tape. It will help in cushioning and soundproofing. Before you start fastening the profiles, you need to make a clear marking of the places on the floor, wall and shelf, where the base for the frame will be attached.

When everything is ready, you can begin to fix the guide profile, taking a step up to one meter. If the fastening goes to a wooden surface, then the distance is 50 centimeters and the adhesion goes with the help of self-tapping screws. If the work is done with a concrete surface, then the frame is screwed with dowels in increments of 75 centimeters. In this case, it is important to make holes in advance.

Both the carrier and the rack profile can be attached to the wall, but it is important that it be solid. If the height of the ceilings is more than three meters, then longer materials will have to be used for the construction. In the event that a door is planned in a new wall, it is important for it to leave an opening of the desired width on the floor. In the case of standard door dimensions of 80 centimeters, it is important to make the opening 8 centimeters wider in order to be able to install the door frame.

The rack profile is installed from the doorway and determines its width. The first place for fixing the profile is the floor, then the level of the entire structure is checked and it is attached to the ceiling. Racks can be installed with any step, it depends on the drywall sheets. Most often they are installed as a fastening tool for sheets at the edge and in the middle of the entire structure. The joint of two sheets should lie clearly in the middle of the profile.

If racks are installed frequently, then the strength of the wall increases, it will withstand a lot, but the cost of work also increases. As for the profile framing the doorway, for greater rigidity, a wooden block or a supporting profile can be placed in it. You can also use cross braces, which are also reinforced with a bar and installed where there is a horizontal drywall joint.

The doorway on top is additionally equipped with a jumper. The installation height depends on the dimensions of the door. If it is two meters, then you need to install the jumper at a height of two meters and five centimeters. They make it from a rack-mount profile, which needs to be cut off longer - not 20, but even 30 centimeters. Stepping back 10 or 15 centimeters from each side of the profile, you need to make an incision at 45 degrees. The bevel should look outward.

The sides that were cut should be bent down and given the structure a U-shape. The vertical parts must be put on racks and secured with metal screws. When working with drywall sheets, it is important to use only special self-tapping screws that have a press washer. It is she who helps to easily pass through the canvas, while not damaging the cardboard and allowing the hat to deepen to the required distance.

Step by step installation instructions

If you need to create a drywall construction with your own hands, you need to properly organize the progress of work. The first thing that is needed is to level the floor and walls to which the structure of the future wall will be attached. Only after that, you can make markings on the floor, taking into account both parallel walls to derive the correct angle for the structure. In case nearby standing walls will also be covered with drywall, then initially a crate is erected for them, and after that the installation of the frame for the new wall begins.

According to the markings that are applied to the floor and walls, only the profile needs to be leveled., and the width of the entire wall will increase after the installation of drywall and putty. Be sure to note the location of the doorway, if any. After marking is completed on the floor, the next step is to mark the wall and ceiling. To do everything perfectly accurately, it is better to use a laser level. If this is not available, a simple plumb line will do.

When everything is ready, a metal frame is erected. The first profile is fixed to the floor with dowels. The second stage is the construction of part of the structure on the ceiling. When both parts are ready, they are combined into general design with support legs CW. If there is a door or a window, you need to use the same racks for them. Installation takes place from the bottom up, the front side should be directed inside the window or door openings.

The next step is the installation vertical supports from the same CW profile with a distance of 55 and 60 centimeters from each other. When everything is ready, all the supports are checked by level. After that, work is underway to install horizontal edges with a UW profile. When all these works have been completed, you can begin fastening drywall sheets.

Based on the fact that this material has standard dimensions of 2 by 1.20 m, 2.50 by 1.20 m and 3 by 1.20 m, for different ceilings different sizes will be required. If the room is not high, then the sheet will most likely have to be cut, the same principle is used for ceilings over three meters, when the length has to be increased.

In order to cut the sheet, use a construction knife.

The cutting process consists of the following steps:

• laying the sheet on the surface, which should be as even and firm as possible;
• you need to draw a line along which the incision will go with a pencil;
• you need to cut carefully and only the cardboard itself;

• the sheet is shifted to the edge of a flat support to the drawn line, by pressing it is necessary to make a break along it;
• flip the drywall over and draw the same line with reverse side on which to make the same incision;
• move along the notch line, press and completely break the GKL.

The next step is to attach drywall sheets to the finished frame.

For this you need:

• On the first sheet, the side chamfer is removed, for which a strip of 55 millimeters is cut off.
• Sheets are fastened from the bottom corner of the wall. It is important to make a small indent from the floor of 10 or 15 millimeters.
• Fastening the sheet to the crate using self-tapping screws 3.5 by 35 millimeters. The edges are fastened first, and then they move to the middle. The width from the self-tapping screw to the self-tapping screw should not exceed 25 centimeters. Hats need to be slightly deepened into the surface of the sheet.

• After installing the first element of drywall, you need to measure the distance left to the ceiling and cut off the appropriate piece.
• Formation of a chamfer on a sheet.
• Install it on the frame.
• It is important to fasten the following sheets in a checkerboard pattern, but there is no need to cut the chamfer. This is how the whole sheet is fastened, without trimming. Mounting goes from ceiling to floor. Thus, the entire side of the future wall is sheathed.

When work on one side has been completed, it is important to consider whether wiring and telephone cable will be needed in the new room. If yes, then the next step is to install them. For wiring, you need to prepare corrugated pipes and run wires into them. After that, it is necessary to make holes in the profile with a diameter of 3.5 cm and thread pipes with wires into them. It is important to determine the holes for the sockets and the switch and make them in advance.

To build a quality wall, you need to supplement it inner part relevant materials, which will have sound insulation and will make it possible to feel confident and comfortable, as if behind a stone wall. This must be done correctly by using rolled mineral wool 6 or 12 centimeters thick. Cotton wool fits tightly between the profiles, this will be enough for a good fix. After everything is done, you can put up a second wall.

The technology of its sheathing is the same. Once all installation work is completed, the a new stage, where the finished wall is subjected to the processing process:

• joints between drywall sheets are glued with a sickle;
• wall treatment with starting putty;
• processing the wall with finishing putty, leveling the places where the screws are located;
• grouting putty with sandpaper;
• decorative wall decoration.

A false wall can be prepared quickly enough, it all depends on the skill of the master and his experience. A beginner can also assemble such a design, it just requires him more time.

Interior walls will serve for a long time, the main thing is to monitor the conditions of their operation. As a decor for such elements, you can use paint, wallpaper or tiles, it all depends on the room, interior and the desire of the owners themselves.

Design

Drywall - very comfortable material for work, especially for creating interesting and unusual images in the interior. This becomes possible due to the fact that the sheets can take a wide variety of shapes, they can not only be cut, but also bent, for which it is enough just to wet the sheet and give it the desired shape.

You can use this material anywhere.- both in a private house and in an apartment, and in each of the cases, the design can be completely different. Options for exactly how a particular space may look may differ in style, shape, and texture. It is possible to build structures with plasterboard in the bathroom, bedroom, corridor and any other room, only the finishing material will differ. For rooms with increased level humidity use moisture resistant sheets.

The false wall is completely similar to the usual one, moreover, it can be equipped with a door and fully serve its owners to separate certain areas of the room. To fulfill such an idea, when designing, leave room for an opening and later place doors in it.

For space zoning, it is not necessary to build entire walls, you can limit yourself to a small partition, which will look spectacular with lighting from above and decorative boxes. The implementation of the partition is not a continuous canvas allows you to give the design lightness. Complete with shelves will help add comfort and hide small things in a secluded place. This option is best suited for the living room, but you can use it in the hall.

A distinctive characteristic of drywall is the ability to apply any decoration methods to it. To create a cozy atmosphere in living rooms, you can glue the wallpaper on the finished wall or paint it in any color and even overlay it with natural or artificial stone. The latter option is especially well suited for a fireplace, which can also be made from plasterboard. In the kitchen or bathroom, painting is also an option, but you can also lay tiles to keep the walls from excess moisture and create the full feeling of a real brick wall.

When planning the construction of a plasterboard wall, it is initially necessary to prepare the room. There should not be anything superfluous in it, because it will not be easy to place a sheet 2 or 3 meters long in it. The room should be clean enough so that the drywall sheets do not get dirty, because then you will need to get rid of the stains so that they do not show up on the surface of the wallpaper or paint.

It is important to plan the room correctly, take into account the heating system, and if necessary, bring the batteries into the new living space. It is necessary to take into account the light that will overlap new design. If the windows are located only on one side, it is important not to completely block access to them.

If it is not a wall that is formed, but a partition, it is better to do it with shelves, and not a solid structure, which will allow you to divide the space, make a storage area, and provide light access to the second part of the room.

Examples in the interior

A plasterboard wall can become a real highlight in the interior, the main thing is to correctly approach the process of its design, choose the right materials, which will help to decorate the room and emphasize its features.

In the bedroom with drywall, you can create an original and unique design. The wall by the bed is made with the help of ornate lines, soft shapes give comfort and contribute to good rest. The presence of shelves allows you to store small things there and use them as a place for lamps.

For the living room, especially when it borders on the kitchen and is not separated by walls, you can use the original semicircular design, which rises from the wall to the ceiling. The space is divided into two zones. In this case, use white color best of all helps to increase the space of both zones.

A plasterboard wall can be designed with a doorway to divide the space between two rooms. Doors can be single or double, with glass or deaf, it depends on the design of the room.

How to make a drywall partition, see the following video.

The main task of repair in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal. Indeed, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly even walls. Aligned on the principle of "at least somehow." You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster over the lighthouses. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: to level the surface of the wall with drywall (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the repair process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions, put new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using drywall. How to align and install drywall walls with your own hands and we will tell in the article.

How to sheathe walls with drywall

To begin with, consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing drywall on glue - is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. The first is that not everywhere there is glue under the finish, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan to fasten something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install a mortgage beam, which will also be an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another disadvantage is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. There is a difference of 2-3 mm. Between the "pieces" of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, it's not a bad way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall on the wall, see the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to the wall, we will talk about the frame and mostly metal. The rules for fastening to wood are the same, just use self-tapping screws for wood.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets are and how to put drywall on the walls. The standard dimensions are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there is a “non-standard” of shorter length: it is easier to work with small ones, but more seams are obtained, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are ceiling. But manufacturers do not have such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers positions thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front. It is deployed inside the room.

How to dock

If you need to join the sheets in height, arrange the joints so that you do not get a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid apart or with a shift. At the same time, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By shifting the seam, you will get rid of cracks with almost 100% probability (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet located on top should be installed so that the junction of the bottom one falls on its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

What to fasten and with what step

During installation, the sheet is pressed against the frame and fixed with a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is assembled from metal, take TN25 self-tapping screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores, they are called “for drywall”. Length - 25 mm, color - black (more likely to break) or white. For a frame made of wood, they are selected close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

It is important to tighten the fasteners to the desired depth during installation: the cap must be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard must not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To learn how to simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the desired depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two along the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls on the middle of the profile.

Stepping back from the edge of 10-12 mm, screws are screwed in. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Mounted around the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the ability to compensate for the change in height without cracks (especially true for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (excluding the features of installing profiles).

Drywall partition

Installing the partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

markup

First mark the place of installation of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular building ( good quality) and plumb. First, mark the line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the line connecting them must be exactly above the line on the floor. Like it or not, you can check with a plumb line, lowering it from the mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Partition marking using a level and a plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider the assembly of the frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the marked line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6 * 40 mm or 6 * 60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN-profile has a standard depth (wall height) - 40 mm, but can be of different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as how thick the insulation and / or soundproofing material can be laid there.

Bearing racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are labeled CW or PS - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing the load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the carriers: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that a heater is then installed.

Racks to the rails are attached in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, holding two parts together. amateur builders independent work with drywall, mounted on "fleas" (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). Racks are fixed on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you put a partition in a high-rise building or on the first floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material between the junction of the rack and the ceiling rail, which will prevent squeaking. When people walk, there are vibrations that are transmitted to the profiles, because of which they rub and creak. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided and there are no unpleasant sounds.

Rack spacing is 60 cm or less. This distance is due to the width of the drywall sheet (drywall), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bump” - the sheet will stagger and sag. Another point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside, and attached to a pair of self-tapping screws. You need to use dry wood so that the beam does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are given greater rigidity with the help of jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of the three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

Jumpers are usually located at the height where two sheets will be joined. Their edges are necessarily fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - put it in 60 cm, if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars are required above the doorway: at the height of the door frame. It is also desirable to strengthen them by putting a wooden block inside.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can start laying communications and electrical wiring. It is desirable to mount all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If you put a partition in a wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized steel frame, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses from non-combustible raw materials (there is a “NG” mark).

Plasterboard sheathing and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, they begin to install drywall sheets. They are mounted in the same way as when sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall sheathing begins on one side. Then, on the other hand, a heater and / or a sound insulator are installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the GKL wall is sewn up on the other side.

Insulation for walls and partitions made of drywall use the usual:

In principle, it is possible to use other heaters, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making drywall walls with your own hands, you will have to cut sheets: they do not always become whole. To do this, you will only need a sharp clerical knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it's not necessary, it's just easier with it. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line on the front side with a pencil along which drywall should be cut;
• we apply a ruler (bar, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a clerical knife;
• we put a bar under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, because of which the gypsum breaks along the cut line;
• break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece, cut the remaining whole cardboard.

Everything is really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described, some are better to see. We have selected videos in which there are features of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of the frame from profiles. This is really the hardest part. And on how correctly the frame is made, it depends on how even the wall or partition will be.

How to make a false plasterboard wall

How to make reinforced racks in the partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but this does not mean that it is wrong. Racks are really more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged drywall interior partition. This is where reinforcement comes in handy. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved. There are different models of profiles on the market, including those with uneven, but rough walls and sidewalls. With an equal thickness of the metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at work? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here the installation of the partition is filmed step by step. Everything is quite affordable, you can take it as a basis and build plasterboard walls with your own hands.

If we consider the question of how to make a wall of drywall with your own hands, it is important to take into account not only the features of the installation technique, with your own hands, but also the nuances associated with the material itself. The fact for which premises and for what purposes the performance of these works is also important.

Partitions and walls made of plasterboard in the interior
Finished wall with many niches
Wall arrangement
Using drywall to model a room
Any interior comes to life with non-standard solutions

There are two options for installing drywall:

1. adhesive (frameless);
2. frame.

Adhesive mounting is the most affordable in terms of costs, it can be done by hand without purchasing special tools and materials. The main advantage of this method is the speed and ease of attaching gypsum boards to the wall surface. The only thing that is required for this is an adhesive solution or putty.

The disadvantages of mounting GKL on glue include the inability to use sound insulation between the wall and gypsum board; the occurrence of difficulties with the repair of communications laid under the surface of the sheets. Among the advantages - the maximum savings in space.

At frame type mounting erected load-bearing metal constructions to which drywall sheets are attached. Due to the fact that the mass from the plates acts on the profiles, and not on the wall itself, such installation can be carried out even in the most dilapidated rooms.

The advantage of using frame technology is the ability to design niches, decorative shelves, false walls and partitions, arches various types and outlines.

Fastening GKL on glue and frame

material requirements

If we consider do-it-yourself installation, then the frame method is certainly more difficult. For its implementation, you will need to measure the room, make detailed drawings, purchase Additional materials for arranging false walls from plasterboard. These include:

• UD format profile with dimensions 50/75/100 by 40 mm, which is attached to the floor and ceiling parallel to the load-bearing wall, forming a frame for mounting the main frame;
• the CW format profile is used with dimensions corresponding to the width of the back of the supporting bars, that is, 50/75/100, but already with a shelf width of 50 mm - for greater reliability;
• self-tapping screws for fixing the GKL to the frame are used in two types - up to 12 mm for metal strips and up to 25 mm for working with gypsum boards at the rate of 8 pcs / m² of the first and about 40 pcs / sheet of the second;
• at least 5 pcs. dowels of the "fungus" type for fastening one carrier profile (keep in mind that there will be several of them);
• sealing and reinforcing tapes for processing gypsum board joints between themselves, with walls and a frame;
• priming and putty compositions for finishing plasterboard walls.

Arrangement of the wall in several stages

It is recommended to use moisture-resistant slabs with a thickness of 12.5 mm as floor sheets for the installation of false walls and partitions. If necessary, they are additionally insulated. Purchase materials (mineral wool, polystyrene, etc.) also in advance.

Layout plan various materials for the installation of walls from plasterboard

In the case of do-it-yourself installation, it is recommended to initially prepare equipment for marking walls (chalk, pencil, plumb line, thread or twine, level), adjusting the material to required dimensions(shears for metal, a knife or a jigsaw for processing GKL), its fastening (screwdriver, hammer, perforator) and processing (roller, spatula).

Frame device

The most important point of installation is the correct marking, the reliability and evenness of the future false wall depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

Markup order:

1. Designate the place on the floor from which it is planned to start fixing the carrier bar. Transfer the resulting figure to the ceiling. The distance from the markings to the wall shows the width of the frame.
2. Perpendicular to the floor on the wall, using a plumb line, make markings for rack profiles. It consists of vertical lines across the surface. bearing wall with a step of 60 cm. With the subsequent fastening of the GKL to the CW plank, the edges of the sheet will be located just in the middle of the profile.
3. The height of the GKL sheet is not enough to completely cover the wall, so it is fixed in a checkerboard pattern. On the wall, they calculate where the whole sheet will be, and where its cut. At the junction of the whole sheet with the trim, lines are drawn perpendicular to those that are marked to indicate the fastening of the rack profiles - additional stiffeners are located in these places.

This is how the final marking on the wall under the frame for the GKL looks like

At the end of the marking work, the direct assembly of the frame begins:

• along the line drawn on the floor and ceiling with metal screws, a guide profile is fixed, under which a sealing tape is placed;
• according to vertical markers, CW strips are attached to the UD profile, it is recommended to start their installation from the corners, to form support posts
• stiffening ribs are installed on the screws;
• then they lay electrical wiring, fill the resulting sectors with thermal insulation;
• a GKL sheet is applied over the frame, installation begins from the corner of the room;
• the resulting edges of the sheets are sealed with putty and reinforcing mesh, polished;
• a primer layer is applied on top of the GKL.

Fastening GKL to the frame and finishing the seams
Making a frame for an arch
Wall as a partition
wall cladding
Metal carcass
Wall at the stage of plasterboard cladding

After the primer has dried, a layer of plaster is applied to level the false wall or the surface is left untreated if painting is to be carried out. See detailed description Do-it-yourself installation of walls from GKL can be done on the proposed videos below.

GKL walls as a functional way to decorate a room

Regardless of the type of installation used, plasterboard walls are one of the most affordable and popular ways to redevelop a room and cosmetic repairs, which guarantees:

• lack of dust and dirt;
• creating a neat, even surface with your own hands in a short time and with a minimum expenditure of money;
• complete creative freedom and the ability to design various design figures for redevelopment, zoning of the room, creating various visual effects with the help of false walls, built-in niches, partitions from plasterboard.

Wall with niches and lighting
Non-standard solution entrance to the second floor
Wall with arched spans
Partition with open niches
Drywall partition

It is thanks to these features of the material and installation that wall repair through the use of gypsum boards has become a favorite decorative technique used by designers to decorate rooms.