How to properly process wooden products: advantages and disadvantages of methods, application rules, decorative effect. Spraying trees Decontamination of garden tools and greenhouses
wood pickling- This is the process of staining wood with special stains, as a result of which it acquires more beautiful colour(for example, walnut, or ebony).
Hardwoods are more susceptible to pickling than others. And if you pickle conifers, then this can not always give the desired effect.
There are two ways in which deep toning is achieved:
1. Hand staining. In this case, a swab or an old paint brush is used. For a tampon, a linen fabric is suitable, which should not leave fibers on the treated surface.
2. Soaking in pickle. There is no set time limit for curing wood in a stain. The fact is that it depends on the specific tree species, as well as on its moisture content and thickness. Therefore, be guided by your own impression of the resulting color.
Before you pickle the wood, dampen it a little.
All compositions for stain etching are divided into three groups. We list them and describe the basic principles of working with them.
1. Wood stains water based. They are bred as written on the package. Before you begin, be sure to check the tone on an unnecessary piece of wood. After all, if you make the tone lighter than necessary, then this can be quickly corrected. But a darker tone is unlikely to be lightened. Coat the floor before applying the stain. Old newspapers are suitable for this. The stain must be applied with a brush in the direction in which the wood fibers are located. Slightly tilt the furniture or its element and start painting from top to bottom. At the same time, so that the composition does not lie in spots, you should not take a lot of stain on the brush.
2. Oily stains. This variety is applied to wood, after which the furniture should dry out within a day. To make the tone darker, the stain is applied again. When the wood is completely dry, you need to sand it with a fine sandpaper. Then wipe the surface with a cloth dipped in turpentine.
3. Homemade stains. The result from home-made stains is no worse than the action of purchased ones. At the same time, their huge advantage is lower cost. Next, we will talk about how you can make your own stains. One general rule: Paint is added to water, not water to paint!
All etchants are very toxic, so use special clothing and rubber gloves for protection. Well, if you will be in a respirator.
So. Mordants are called dyes necessary for deep toning. There are enough of them. These are copper and iron vitriol, potassium and sodium chromium peaks, potassium permanganate, copper sulfate and chloride, calcium chloride, ammonia, alum, ferrous sulfate and chloride, zinc sulfate and others.
Potassium permanganate good for enhancing brown or Brown wood. If you make a mixture of potassium permanganate and magnesium sulfate in equal proportions, you get the best dye. This mixture must be diluted hot water. Thanks to dyes based on potassium permanganate, the wood is first dyed cherry, and then brown. Be aware of one subtlety: under the influence sunlight wood painted in this way brightens.
- If you want to stain the sliced veneer in blue or black, then it must be soaked in an infusion of iron powder and oak sawdust. To achieve such an interesting effect, you will need to wait 5-6 days.
- Gonna get blue wood? Then you take nitric acid diluted with water and pour copper filings into it. Bring this mixture to a boil and watch the copper filings dissolve. Allow the resulting composition to cool and dilute it in equal proportions with water. When you finish soaking the wood, treat it liberally with a solution of baking soda. /li>
- For creating brown stains for oak, walnut or mahogany will need crystals of potassium permanganate, Vandyke brown or walnut pigment. They can be purchased at specialty stores. The crystals dissolve in warm water.
Aniline paints needed to obtain various shades of brown. They are sold in powder form and are highly soluble in water, oil or turpentine. To make a dark stain, you need to mix Bismarck brown and Vandyke brown paint. To do this, dilute each paint in warm water. In each of the solutions add a drop of vinegar and 7 ml of glue. After that, mix them and look at the shade: if you need a shade lighter, then add more water.
Thanks to blue vitriol the oak takes on a gray-blue tint, and the tone of the mahogany is muted. Dilute copper sulfate crystals in water and cover the wood. The peculiarity of copper sulphate is that the effect of its impact is manifested only after the wood has dried.
Ammonia makes oak wood even darker. For this purpose, 88% ammonia is suitable. It is necessary to work with it with extreme caution, it is better to fresh air. Remember that the ammonia-based mixture loses its properties after an hour, so work quickly and do not knead a large amount of the mixture at once. Generally adding a drop ammonia in any stain is useful for better adhesion of paint to wood.
At the end of the work, be sure to check that the color tone is uniform. In no case should there be unpainted places. That is why the stain is applied in a place that is well lit. Ideally, work in daylight.
The process of etching wood ends with a layer of varnish, polishing or waxing. It already depends only on your desire.
Some gardeners seriously believe that the garden will produce excellent fruit without special treatments for diseases and pests. This is wrong! The infection is fast. First you lose in crops, then you lose trees. In the end, the whole garden may die. The real owner must know what to do in order to protect fruit trees, berries from diseases and other misfortunes.
Insecticides are substances that kill insects or other small pests. The substances of these drugs are of three types - depending on the mode of their action. Contact insecticides kill pests on contact. These agents are used against sucking insects (aphids and bedbugs).
Insecticides applied to the leaves form a film that is poisonous to insects. They are used against leaf-eating caterpillars. These substances can be used after contact insecticides. Drawback: They are washed away by rain.
Systemic insecticides penetrate the plant and spread with cell sap to all parts of it. They are used against sucking insects and some caterpillars.
Fungicides are pesticides that are needed to combat disease-causing fungi. They are ineffective against bacterial infections. There are two main types of these funds, which are used depending on the nature and stage of the lesion. Preventive fungicides form a film on the plant surface that kills fungal spores. The first spraying is preferably carried out before signs of the disease appear.
Systemic fungicides penetrate the plant and are carried along with the juices. They are more effective than those of the preventive action, since they penetrate into all parts of the plant.
In the processing of the garden, I have my own system. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts (around the end of March), I spray the bushes of black and red currants, gooseberries. I use any insecticides (I buy the most inexpensive ones - Inta-vir, Decid, etc.). And before flowering, I spray the plants from diseases with a red solution of potassium permanganate, adding Topaz and iodine to it.
The main treatment is with the onset of swelling of the kidneys. I spray with a three percent solution of Bordeaux crown liquid fruit trees. If it rains after that, repeat the treatment. After flowering, I carry out two or three protective treatments with Horus and Skor preparations. They must be alternated.
At the first appearance of pests (aphids, caterpillars, beetles), it is recommended to spray trees and shrubs with a solution of one of the pesticides (Danadim, Iskra, Decis, Inta-vir). It is especially necessary to ensure that the plants are not captured by the sucker (a white worm with a black head, its length is 3 mm and thickness is 1 mm). The pest loves to live in the buds of flowers, sucking out their juice, which is why the flowers turn yellow and crumble. In most orchards, it is the sucker, and not the weevil, as they say in the books, that destroys the crop of apples and pears. To combat it, at the beginning and end (before blooming flowers) of budding, sprinkle the buds with one of the above preparations.
I want to warn you that with all spraying, liquid soap (50-100 g per 10 liters of water) must be added to the solution to form a good foam. This is done so that pesticides adhere better and are not washed off so quickly by rain, dew and fog.
At the first signs of the appearance of scab on apple and pear trees (brown and black spots on the leaves), they should be sprinkled with the Skor preparation. At the first signs of coccomycosis disease ( brown spots on the leaves of cherries and sweet cherries), clasterosporiasis (the same spots on the leaves of plums, cherry plums, apricots, terry almonds) or moniliosis (drying of flowers and twigs in stone fruits), plants should be sprinkled with copper-containing preparations, such as copper oxychloride or others.
When dealing with pests and diseases, the main thing is to follow two rules. It is necessary to start spraying at the first sign of diseases and pests, otherwise it will be difficult to cope with them. Be sure to add liquid soap to the solution.
So that the gooseberries do not get sick with powdery mildew, I spray the bushes once before and after flowering with a Topaz solution. If the plants have already begun to get sick with powdery mildew ( white coating on the branches, the ends of which turn black), then they must be sprayed every three days (at least five times) with a solution of the same drug. The affected ends of the branches must be cut off. If the disease reappears, then the gooseberry must be treated until the powdery mildew disappears forever. Nevertheless, every year in the spring it is necessary to process the bushes in the manner described above. Do not spray - get white, almost inedible berries.
Summer residents who are used to collecting in their garden good harvest, know that spraying trees from pests and diseases is indispensable. What drugs to use, the best folk remedies in pest control, the most appropriate time to treat the garden is helpful information for every gardener.
Treatment of trees in winter from pests and diseases
IN winter time pest and disease control is not carried out. Plants, like pests themselves, hibernate. The first treatment of the garden with fungicides and insecticides is carried out in the spring before bud break, and the last autumn after leaf fall.
Treatment of trees from aphids and ants
Ants often settle in a garden that is infested with aphids. The fight against ants is carried out to prevent the spread of aphids around the site. Ways to fight are different:
- placed on tree trunks sticky tape and various ant traps;
- anthills are poured with boiling water;
- spray trees with boric acid;
- if there are a lot of insects and they cause significant damage, they treat the garden with insecticides of the peritroid series (Fury, Sherpo, etc.).
Aphids are also controlled with insecticides or folk methods(with a solution of soap, ash, tincture of garlic and a decoction of wormwood).
Processing of cherry, apple and pear trees in spring
If there are no traces of vital activity of harmful insects on the trees, you can get by with one preventive treatment in March. With any signs of infection, the spring treatment of the garden from pests takes place in three stages.
The first treatment begins when the air warms up to +5 degrees, around mid-March. Trees are sprayed with insecticides and fungicides, before that, dried branches are cut, and last year's foliage is removed.
Until mid-April, the second treatment of the garden is carried out, before the flowers bloom. For spraying, a solution of copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid and intestinal bioinsecticides (Lepidocid) are used.
The third processing of trees is carried out immediately after flowering. It will help get rid of pests - caterpillars, aphids, mites, leafworms and fungal diseases. Spray the garden with zinc sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, blue vitriol, Polyhom. To treat aphids, tobacco tincture is used (400 g of dry leaves per 10 liters of liquid), a decoction of tomato, potato, and wormwood leaves. Two weeks after flowering, another insecticide treatment is carried out - Benzophosphate, Karbofos or Chlorophos.
Spraying trees and shrubs in the fall from diseases and pests
Autumn pest control begins when the trees shed their leaves, in late October or November. Popular drugs used at this time include: Bordeaux liquid, copper and iron sulfate, urea. The treatment is designed to protect trees from fungal diseases.
Spraying trees with ammonia from birds
To scare away birds, spraying is carried out immediately after a good rain. The composition is prepared from 4 liters of water, 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap and 1 tbsp. l. ammonia. Spray fruit trees, shrubs and berries in the garden.
Spraying fruit trees with vinegar from pests
With the help of apple cider vinegar, they fight the codling moth. To prepare a solution, 200 ml of vinegar fermented for 3 days is diluted in 3 liters of water. Pour the resulting mixture into plastic bottles, and hung on the branches of trees at a height of 2 meters from the ground. Codling moth is collected in bottles. Traps are changed once a week.
With the help of ordinary vinegar, they fight aphids. A solution is added (1 tablespoon of vinegar per 1 liter of water), and the trees are sprayed 2 or 3 times with an interval of 10 days.
Treatment of trees with 5% iron, copper sulphate dosage and concentration, instructions for use
Iron vitriol is phytotoxic, so it is used for spraying after the foliage has fallen in the fall or before it appears in the spring. Approximately 1 tbsp. l. the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water to obtain a solution of 5% concentration. The solution is used immediately after preparation. During spraying, wear gloves, goggles and a respirator, as the product is poisonous.
Copper sulphate is treated with trees in the spring. Prepare a solution of 1% concentration (100 g of the drug per 10 liters of water) in plastic utensils. Spray trees with gloves and a respirator, as the solution is toxic.
Spraying trees with ash solution, calcium chloride with water, tobacco solution
To protect trees in the garden from fungal diseases and pests, an ash solution is used. 400 g of ash are dissolved in a small amount of water, the mixture is heated over low heat for half an hour. Then filter, mix with 40 ml of soap, bring the volume of the solution to 10 liters. And spray the trees.
To prepare a tobacco solution, 500 g of dry tobacco is poured into 10 liters of water, infused for a day, filtered, and the plants are sprayed.
For spraying with calcium chloride, a 0.5 or 1% solution is prepared (50 or 100 g of calcium per 10 liters of water). During the season, 5 treatments are carried out, the first one begins a month after flowering.
Spraying trees with a solution of potassium permanganate, urea, salt
A solution of potassium permanganate can increase the resistance of trees to fungal diseases. To prepare the mixture, 3 grams of potassium permanganate is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spray trees early in the morning or evening.
Plants are sprayed with urea 2 times per season - in early spring and late autumn. For spring processing, 500 g is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Such spraying will help destroy aphids, flower beetles, suckers, etc.
Garden pests are successfully destroyed with a salt solution. 1 kg of table salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water, and the trees are sprayed. In order for the pests to die, the salt composition must hold out on the leaves for 2 or 3 days.
Treatment of trees with laundry soap, tar, green
To protect against aphids, a solution is prepared from 10 liters of water and 200 grams of grated or liquid laundry soap. Spray trees in dry weather.
Treatment of trees with a solution tar soap repels many insects. To prepare it, 50 grams of tar soap are diluted in 10 liters of water (you can replace 1 tablespoon of tar).
Green soap based on potassium salt is used in different concentrations. It depends on the type of pest that is being controlled. For aphids, dilute 200 or 400 g of soap in 10 liters of water, for thrips 100 g in 10 liters, and 200 or 300 grams. Spraying is carried out 3 times per season.
Spraying trees with brilliant green and iodine in the country, tar, mustard
To combat late blight, 10 liters of water are mixed with a liter of whey, 40 drops of iodine and 1 tbsp. l. ammonia. Spray trees in dry weather.
With the help of brilliant green, they also fight late blight and powdery mildew. To do this, 40 drops of brilliant green are dissolved in a bucket of water. The resulting solution is sprayed on the trees.
Tar helps repel insect pests. To prepare a solution in 10 liters of water, dissolve 20 grams of liquid tar and 2 tablespoons of soap for better adhesion of the solution during spraying.
Trees are sprayed with a solution of mustard from pests 2 weeks after flowering. To prepare a solution, 100 grams of dry mustard powder is diluted in 10 liters of water, insisted for a day, diluted with water 2 times more, 50 grams of laundry soap are added.
Treatment of trees with succinic and boric acid during flowering
Succinic acid is a growth biostimulant. Spraying it with a solution of trees is carried out before and after flowering. For processing before flowering 10 grams succinic acid dissolved in 10 liters of water. After flowering, the solution is prepared from 20 grams of succinic acid and 10 liters of water.
To improve fruiting, trees are sprayed with a solution boric acid. For the first time, when buds appear (10 or 20 g of boric acid is diluted in 10 liters of water). The second dressing is done a week after the first. Spray trees in the morning or evening in dry weather. This procedure reduces the fall of the ovaries, improves the quality of the crop.
Copper, brass and bronze products are degreased in a solution containing 100 g of trisodium phosphate and 10-20 ml of liquid glass in 1 liter of water. After degreasing, the product is thoroughly washed in hot water and immersed for 30-60 seconds in 5% hydrochloric acid to remove the layer of metal oxides, after which the product is washed again with water and immediately transferred to the coating solution.
For "coloring" copper products in different colors recommend using the following recipes17. Dissolve 4 g of sodium hydroxide and 4 g of lactose (milk sugar) in 100 ml of water, boil the solution for several minutes, and then add 4 ml of a concentrated solution of copper sulphate in small portions with continuous stirring. The defatted product is immersed in a hot solution, and depending on the duration of treatment, its surface acquires a color from golden to green, brown or even black. As a result of redox chemical reaction copper sulfate with lactose in an alkaline medium, gluconic acid is obtained and a precipitate of copper (I) oxide is released. First, a thin yellow Cu2O film is formed, which gives the copper surface a golden hue. With prolonged heating, the Cu2O crystals coarsen, become dark red, hence the change in the color of the coating
18. Prepare a solution of 2 g of nickel sulfate, 4 g of Bertolet salt, 18 g of copper sulfate and 0.2 g of potassium permanganate in 100 ml of water. Processing copper products with a warm solution of this composition gives them " bronze" view
19. Dissolve 12.5 g of ammonium carbonate in 100 ml of water and add 4 ml of ammonia. The resulting solution is applied with a brush to the surface of the product and a surface is obtained. greenish color. Under the action of ammonia on the copper surface in the presence of atmospheric oxygen, a complex salt is formed, which then interacts with ammonium carbonate, releasing a green precipitate of copper hydroxide carbonate Сu2CO3 (OH) 2 on the metal surface.
20. Copper slander weed liver solution. To obtain a sulfuric liver, 1 part (by mass) of sulfur and 2 parts of potash are fused in an iron can. After cooling, the glassy black mass is removed from the jar and finely crushed. You can store sulfur liver only in an airtight container. Make a 10-15% solution of sulfuric liver in water, bring the solution to a boil and lower the parts into it. Blackening time 0.5 - 1 min. If the product is complex - it consists of parts, then they are blackened and polished before assembly.
21. Brass is blackened in the following solution: 200 g of copper carbonate and 1 g of ammonia (25%) are dissolved in 1 liter of water. Parts are processed in a solution at a temperature temperature 30-40°С, treatment time 3-5 min22. "rust converter"turns it into a durable brown surface coating. A 15-30% aqueous solution of phosphoric acid is applied to the product with a brush or spray gun and the product is allowed to air dry. It is even better to use phosphoric acid with additives, for example, 4 ml of butyl alcohol or 15 g tartaric acid per 1 liter of orthophosphoric acid solution.Orthophosphoric acid converts rust components into iron orthophosphate FePO4, which creates a protective film on the surface.At the same time, tartaric acid binds part of the iron derivatives into tartrate complexes.
23. Old recipe ointments to protect the metal from rust is as follows: melt 100 g of lard, add 1.5 g of camphor, remove the foam from the melt and mix it with graphite, ground into powder, so that the composition becomes black. The metal is lubricated with a cooled ointment and left for a day, and then the metal is polished with a woolen cloth.
Padding walls, an operation to create an intermediate layer (primer), firmly bonded to both a plastered surface and a layer of putty, whitewash or paint. Cracks are closed at the same time.
Mixtures for priming on drying oil.
24. Vitriol primer: dissolve 150-200 g of copper sulfate in 2-3 liters of boiling water, separately dissolve 200 g of wood glue in 2-3 liters of water. Add 25-30 ml of drying oil to the glue solution, filter and add a solution of copper sulfate, 250 g of planed laundry soap and 2-3 kg of chalk powder, and then add water to 10 liters. The mixture is filtered through a mesh cloth (for example, through gauze)25. Alum primer contains 150-200 g of potassium alum, 200 g of soap, 200 g of wood glue, 25-30 ml of drying oil and 2-3 kg of chalk powder in 10 liters of water, and it is prepared in the same way as vitriol
26. Soap primer consists of 2-3 kg of slaked lime, 500 g of soap, 100 g of drying oil and water. First, dissolve the soap in 2-3 liters of boiling water and pour drying oil into this solution with thorough mixing. Then slaked lime is added to the resulting emulsion, mixed with a small amount of water to a doughy state. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and water is added to 10 liters.
