Recipes for preparation and application. We prepare an antiseptic for wood with our own hands: the composition and properties of impregnation Spraying trees with ammonia from birds

To give greater decorativeness and aesthetics to wood products, they are treated with wood stain. The solution changes the tone and emphasizes the texture of the wood. Modern stains have antiseptic properties and can significantly extend the life of the product.

Consider what types of stains are, how you can make a composition with your own hands, and what are the basic rules for applying stain to wood.

The purpose of wood stain

Stain is a tinting composition that is applied to treated wood to change the natural color of wood, plywood, furniture, chipboard, fiberboard and MDF. Morilka has a second name Beyts.

A special composition penetrates deep into the wood, so that the texture of the wood is preserved. Such an effect from enamel or paint cannot be achieved.

Some use wood stain to hide the true type of wood, such as painting inexpensive pine in the colors of noble woods. Others use wood stain to update a room or to highlight a beautiful texture. natural material.

With the skillful use of stain and a combination of several shades at the same time, you can turn an ordinary wood product into an artistic value.

In addition to decorative functions, some types of stains also have protective properties. Wood-protective compositions include stains on an oil-alkyd basis or solvents. Such stains are able to protect the tree from insect pests, the appearance of mold and fungi.

Types of stains for wood processing

The main criterion by which all stains are classified is the basis for making the solution. The most common stains are water, alcohol, oil, acrylic and wax based. Consider the features of each type.

Water-based stains are available in two forms: dry stains in powder form for self-dilution in water, and in a ready-to-use state. Water stains take a long time to dry, so it will take a long time to get a uniform tone.

The main inconvenience of using stain is that during processing, the composition raises the wood fiber. On the one hand, this emphasizes the structure of the tree, and on the other hand, it makes the product more vulnerable to moisture. Therefore, before applying the stain, the wood should be wetted superficially, left to soak for a while and carefully sanded.

Alcohol stain is a solution of organic dyes with pigments in ethyl alcohol. Alcohol compositions are used for antiseptic and decorative painting. wooden products. Such stains reduce pile uplift and do not cause swelling of the wood.

When using alcohol stain, it is difficult to achieve uniform staining, as the composition dries quickly, and stains can form. For toning small items, such stains can be suitable, but it will be very problematic to paint the parquet.

Alcohol stains are applied only with a spray gun (spray gun), and when painted with a brush, the result can be unpredictable

Oil based stain have many tones and shades. Oil stain contains dyes soluble in drying oil and oils. White spirit is used as a solvent.

Oil stain - the most convenient to use: it can be applied different ways, does not lift the fibers and is distributed evenly over the entire surface. Products treated with oil-based stains can be easily repainted and restored.

Wax and acrylic stains- the latest generation of tinting materials. Stains based on acrylic resins and wax form a thin colored film on the surface of the wood, which additionally protects the material from excessive moisture. These types of stains evenly "lay" on the surface and are well suited for processing wooden floors.

Acrylic stains have a wide range of tones that can be mixed to achieve subtler shades. The composition has no unpleasant odor, does not ignite and is suitable for all types of wood. Acrylic stains do not emit harmful fumes, and dry quickly after application.

When working with acrylic stain, it is important not to overdo it with the layer thickness. A good effect can be obtained when applying no more than 2 layers, if more, then stains may form.

Wax stains are very soft wax. They can be used directly on wood or pre-painted surfaces. Wax stains are applied with a cloth and spread over the wood with a rubbing motion.

Wax stains look most effective in combination with polishing. This technique is often used when finishing turning products, profiles and threads.

Important! Wax-based stains must not be used before wood treatment with two-component acid-curing varnishes or polyurethane.

Making a stain with your own hands: recipes for craftsmen

Plant stains

You can give wood a different shade with the help of plant components.

Wood stains based on coffee, tea and vinegar

Do-it-yourself wood stain can be made from improvised means: coffee, tea and vinegar.

You can give the tree a cherry, brown and dark brown hue with a solution of potassium permanganate: 50 g should be diluted in 1 liter of warm water, applied to the wood, and after 5 minutes wipe the surface with a soft cloth. In order to get a brighter shade, the treatment with potassium permanganate must be repeated.

After treating the wood with potassium permanganate stain, the surface must be coated with a protective compound, otherwise the potassium permanganate will fade

Stains with chemical components

If you want to get a lasting color, you can experiment and create a stain from chemicals.

Whitening stains

Bleaching wood allows you to prepare the product for painting and achieve expressive tone. Some species of trees acquire unexpected color shades when bleached. For example, walnut, which has a solid texture with a purple tint, after treatment with a bleaching stain, becomes a pale pink or scarlet pink. The bleaching of the apple tree makes the wood a noble ivory color.

Whitening stain: photo

For bleaching, you can use different solutions. Some act very quickly, others more slowly.

Solution of oxalic acid. Dissolve 1.5-6 g of oxalic acid in 100 g of boiled water. This composition is suitable for bleaching light woods: linden, white poplar, light walnut, birch and maple. Dirty tones or gray spots may appear on other types of wood. Veneer sheets after bleaching should be washed with a solution (composition: hot water - 100 g, soda ash - 3 g, bleach - 15). This treatment deresin the surface and raises the pile of wood.
Bleaching with 25% hydrogen peroxide is suitable for most woods except lemon, oak and rosewood. Products, after treatment with peroxide, do not need to be washed. Peroxide solution bleaches only finely porous tree species. Wood containing tannins is very difficult to lighten with such a stain. To improve the bleaching process, tannins must first be treated with a 10% solution of ammonia.

Whitening results different breeds trees:

birch after bleaching in a solution of oxalic acid gets a greenish tint;
ash and oak veneer becomes noticeably lighter after treatment with oxalic acid;
Anatolian nut, when bleached in hydrogen peroxide (peroxide concentration not lower than 15%), acquires a golden hue, and walnut - pink.

Methods for applying stain

Wood stain processing can be done in one of four ways:

Spraying. The stain is applied to the surface of the wood with an airbrush. Spraying allows you to achieve an even distribution of the stain and obtain an even texture.
Trituration. The stain is applied to the wood and evenly rubbed over the entire area of the product. The coating is transformed, the texture becomes pronounced. This method is optimal for porous wood species, and the stain should not be used to dry quickly.
Application with a roller or swab. This method is used when processing products with a small area, it helps to avoid streaks and ensures a uniform distribution of the stain over the surface.
Brush application. In the absence of a spray gun or swab, you can use a brush, but this method is not suitable for all types of stain. Experts note that when applied with a brush, wood gives a deeper, saturated color than with other methods.

The main principles of wood stain processing

In order to receive beautiful product from natural material, it is necessary to adhere to the basic rules of wood processing.

Applying stain: video

Possible defects and their elimination

It is necessary to apply the stain very carefully, since it will be quite difficult to remove the resulting defects.

The formation of streaks. This happens if the stain is applied in large quantities and dries very quickly. In this case, you should try to remove the stain layer as much as possible. Another layer of stain should be applied to the hardening layer, which will soften the drying one, and then remove excess solution with a rag.

If the stain is completely dry, then a paint thinner must be used to remove it. However, the entire pigment cannot be removed. The top painted layer can be removed with a planer or sandpaper.

Product spotting. If the treated wood has an uneven density or wavy, then the absorption of the stain may occur unevenly - the color will be richer in some places, and lighter in others.

Spotting on mahogany or walnut looks attractive, but on the wood of cherry, birch, pine, spruce and poplar - it does not look natural

Spotting is very difficult to remove. You can remove the layer of stained wood with a planer, in plywood you will need to remove all the front veneer.

It is better to prevent the appearance of spotting in advance:

test the wood - apply stain to an unnecessary piece of the workpiece;
use stain gel.

Stain-gel - a thick, pasty stain that does not spread and does not penetrate deep into the wood. In addition, helium stains have a low absorption rate.

An antiseptic, which has been familiar to many since childhood as an emetic medication, can be used at home, in the garden, and even as an odor remedy. It is nothing but potassium permanganate. And in the common people - manganese. The use of potassium permanganate in gardens and cottages is due not only to strong antiseptic qualities.

It is actively used as a fungicide, which is able to eliminate the deficiency of useful elements in the development of plants. Unfortunately, the drug is difficult to find, but if you manage to buy it, then not a single experienced farmer will miss such an opportunity: to buy potassium permanganate.

Description and composition of potassium permanganate

Potassium permanganate is not chemical, which harms the taste of the plant and humans. The substance is distinguished by its unique qualities:

an antiseptic that is suitable for the soil as a disinfectant for certain diseases;
disinfectant component for tools used in the garden, garden or greenhouse;
eliminates fungal spores (including parts inside garden structures);
helps to accelerate the development of young plants, used for seeds.

Potassium permanganate is sold dry in the form of crystals. Color: purple, almost black-purple. But it is used as a solution. Moreover, it is very economical, quite powerful, medicinal.

Literally all garden and garden premises, tools, soil, planting blanks, seedlings, seeds can be processed. Stages for processing: from spring to late autumn.

The formula for potassium permanganate is KMnO. Which indicates a complex connection with proteins. As a conclusion: contains natural ingredients. During contact with organic matter, a natural release of atomic oxygen occurs. Has names:

potassium permanganate or manganese;
potassium salt of permanganic acid.

Treatment, spraying or any other treatment with manganese of horticultural crops is different from human therapy. There is an instruction for use on the land.

Useful properties of potassium permanganate

If people have acquired a dacha, then the top priority is to treat the soil from pests, pathogenic spores and microbes. Disinfection of the earth with potassium permanganate provides a solution to the issue in full.

Manganese sulfate provides the gardener with:

Elimination of fungal spores, bacterial infection. These problems can kill the crop for initial stage development. A weak (pale pink) solution is used. Disinfection takes place by spraying, soaking seeds, seedlings.
Clean inventory from infections and other troubles. Any tool that is necessary for working with the earth or a plant must be processed. Cause: possible infection by pathogenic microorganisms. Activities of such a plan are carried out before starting work with the land.
Disinfection of seedlings, seeds before planting in the soil. Such a precaution does not hurt, as the farmer helps to protect young plant before infectious diseases.
Protection and destruction of harmful insects: aphids, wireworms, onion flies.
The elimination of mold, fungus, not only on the soil, but also on the walls of the premises for storing seedlings, crops, greenhouses.
The main advantage of manganese as a fertilizer is the stimulation of growth and development. Potassium in combination with manganese contributes to an increase in the green part. It nourishes the culture with ascorbic acid, which enhances the production of chlorophyll. The result will be accelerated ripening of the crop.

Manganese solution, even in a weak form, is used for preventive purposes. But no matter how wonderful manganese is, it can kill plants. If misused or diluted.

Pros and cons of using the substance

The composition of the salt of potassium permanganic acid has only two ingredients: potassium and manganese. Both are useful and necessary for all types of plants, provide disinfection of water and land before planting seedlings, during cultivation. There are much more positive aspects when using it than negative ones:

Interesting fact! The disappearance of manganese as a fertilizer, a medicine for indigestion, is due to a completely non-problematic use or harm to plants and people. The problem is that manganese began to be used as an ingredient for narcotic substances home production.

Application area

Growing seedlings, greenhouse and perennials should be correct. Otherwise, the time spent on planting and care will be wasted. Potassium permanganate has been widely used as a fertilizer and protection. It is actively used as:

antiseptic;
means for disinfection;
growth enhancer;
protective and prophylactic substance.

As a fertilizer for plants

Watering with potassium permanganate is possible with other fungicides as an enhancer of their capabilities. You can make manganese, both before sowing and after planting, during growth. In combination with boric acid, it provides active production of chlorophyll, ascorbic acid and fructose, which is extremely important for improving palatability fruits.

It makes no difference what it was used for, since an obvious improvement will occur both on vegetable crops, and fruit and berry (raspberries, strawberries, currants, gooseberries).

Soil disinfection

The question of whether potassium permanganate is suitable for the soil is asked by beginners in gardening. If manganese is definitely suitable as a fertilizer for 90% of plants, then it can not be used for all types of soils.

Reason: manganese salt is an oxidizing agent. Therefore, disinfection with potassium permanganate can be carried out on soddy soil or chernozem. But it is strictly forbidden to carry out manipulations on podzolic soil.

Treatment against diseases and pests

But manganese for plants is necessary not only for growth or providing taste, juice. Potassium permanganate destroys pathogenic microbes, fungal spores and harmful insects:

With the right dilution of the working solution, you can remove the problems associated with insects and diseases, if you water the flowers when attacked. Also for prevention purposes.

Useful properties for indoor flowers

Potassium permanganate for plants that are bred at home (not just seedlings) will benefit. It should be processed in the spring, despite the fact that houseplants well protected from frost, wind. Manganese is suitable for violets and as a top dressing for hydrangeas. Although these plants are considered tender and fussy.

Seed dressing

If there is a desire to protect the crop during planting, to give it the opportunity to develop intensively, use potassium permanganate to soak the seeds or roots. Strong solution disinfects planting material from pathogenic micro-organisms.

Disinfection of garden tools and greenhouses

Potassium permanganate as a fertilizer provides protection and elimination from bacteria and infections. Seed dressing makes it possible for the agrarian to plant obviously healthy seeds, get good harvest.

But you will need a room that is safe enough to store gardening products, to ensure the safety of seedlings or greenhouse plants. Potassium permanganate will also help here. Processing the premises by spraying, washing with a working solution gives 100% protection against fungus and the previously mentioned diseases.

Instructions on how to breed potassium permanganate

The preparation of a solution of potassium permanganate has different dosages. Depends on the purpose: treatment for pests or diseases, etc. It is important to consider for which cultures make the solution.

Required dosage

If the seeds are treated with potassium permanganate, then the working solution is made strong enough: 2 g per 1 liter. holding time: up to half an hour. There is an option for overnight soaking. In this case, the solution is made weak (pale shade of the liquid).

The concentration for treating plants varies depending on the species. So potato tubers are subject to soaking for 3.5 days. Solution: 5 l of water + 1 g of potassium permanganate. The result is a one percent solution.

For feeding vegetables

For tomatoes, manganese is essential as a flavor and growth enhancer. The application process is divided into several stages. The first occurs during the growing of seedlings (age 3 weeks). Solution: 10 l + 2 g.

When cultivating the soil, cucumbers, the solution is made the same as for tomatoes. But the processing is carried out during the fruiting period.

Feeding carrots or the need to process onions goes like spraying. The concentration of the substance does not differ from the previous version.

Garden tree processing

If you need to process plants in horticulture, then potassium permanganate will come in handy. Trees need potassium for rapid growth and development of ovaries.

The solution is different from the vegetable one: take 10 liters and add 3 g of powder. Be sure to add boric acid. At the same time there is feeding and protection.

For soil disinfection

The lack of manganese and potassium in the soil greatly affects the development of crops. After awakening the soil, manganese sulfate will help get rid of pests that increase in number during wintering. The antiseptic further promotes better absorption of nitrogen by crops.

The solution for disinfecting the soil is made weak: 3 g per bucket. It is recommended to spray, not pour into the soil. The liquid is thus better absorbed.

For disinfection of tools and greenhouses

A strong solution of potassium permanganate should disinfect everything gardening Tools. Even if they are used only in breeding rooms (greenhouses or in a greenhouse). Not only shovels or choppers are subject to processing. This includes:

buckets and boxes;
gardening scissors;
pots and containers for seedlings;
pruner and saw, other tools.

Security measures

Manganese vitriol can only be diluted in a glass container. Store also in glass, with a tightly closed lid. It is forbidden to keep the concentrated liquid warm and on sunshine. So the substance quickly loses its unique properties.

Manganese is not harmful to the human body. But don't be so careless about it. Security measures are fully observed:

Work with rubber gloves. Since crystals can cause irritation and burns.
Avoid contact with mucous membranes for the same reasons.
When working with a strong solution, moisten cotton wool or a rag in the liquid. Hands must have gloves.

Dilution water is taken provided that the pH is neutral. Exceeding the dosage promises problems for the culture, since the solution is able to burn tender green spaces, parts of the plant. Do not exceed the time for soaking, so as not to spoil the root, seeds.

We make hand sanitizer for wood.

When I was looking for information on this issue, I found only about bitumen, its heating and application. Will someone be truss system impregnated with heated bitumen? And if we are talking about a tree that will be in the ground, then it is easier to saturate it with used engine oil - in any car service they will be happy to hand you (or maybe hand ☺) the required amount - only your own container!

SENEZH Fire-bio does not protect from the appearance of fungus, mold and other nasty things, for nothing, which costs 1550 rubles / 25 liters. I can send a photo - they made a gazebo in SNT "Artist" in 2012. In 2014, the owner calls and says that moldy covered the whole gazebo. I came and got 25,000 rubles and 5 days of work for two carpenters - to dismantle everything, clean it (and we also covered it with yacht varnish - it grows right under the varnish), soak it with anti-mold, then with decorative impregnation.

Instruction:

We take a canister of 25 liters.

We buy iron vitriol (protects against the appearance of mold, fungus, moss, and, if available, kills) 100 gr. - on the market 70 rubles.

and potassium permanganate (for color) 10 gr. - in a pharmacy 50 rubles (water-based color can also be used).

We breed for 20 liters (not a typo - for 20 liters).

Stir and apply with a brush or roller (faster).

The price of such an antiseptic is 120 rubles + 20 liters of tap water (since we were forced to install meters, we will take 1 ruble / 1 liter, i.e. 20 rubles). TOTAL 160 rubles for 20 liters!!!

Why did I write this - I'm tired of the fact that they are trying to “divorce” us for money everywhere!

P.S. And one more thing: bleaches for wood are made on the basis of chlorine - it also costs not 500 rubles / 5 liters like Senezh EFFO. I'll try to make it with my own hands, I'll write.

Sincerely, Shchelkov Anton.

Summer residents who are used to harvesting a good harvest in their garden know that they cannot do without spraying trees from pests and diseases. What drugs to use, the best folk remedies in pest control, the most appropriate time to treat the garden is helpful information for every gardener.

Treatment of trees in winter from pests and diseases

IN winter time pest and disease control is not carried out. Plants, like pests themselves, hibernate. The first treatment of the garden with fungicides and insecticides is carried out in the spring before bud break, and the last autumn after leaf fall.

Treatment of trees from aphids and ants

Ants often settle in a garden that is infested with aphids. The fight against ants is carried out to prevent the spread of aphids around the site. Ways to fight are different:
- placed on tree trunks sticky tape and various ant traps;
- anthills are poured with boiling water;
- spray trees with boric acid;
- if there are a lot of insects and they cause significant damage, they treat the garden with insecticides of the peritroid series (Fury, Sherpo, etc.).

Aphids are also controlled with insecticides or folk methods(with a solution of soap, ash, tincture of garlic and a decoction of wormwood).

Processing of cherry, apple and pear trees in spring

If there are no traces of vital activity of harmful insects on the trees, you can get by with one preventive treatment in March. With any signs of infection, the spring treatment of the garden from pests takes place in three stages.

The first treatment begins when the air warms up to +5 degrees, around mid-March. Trees are sprayed with insecticides and fungicides, before that, dried branches are cut, and last year's foliage is removed.

Until mid-April, the second treatment of the garden is carried out, before the flowers bloom. For spraying, a solution of copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid and intestinal bioinsecticides (Lepidocid) are used.

The third processing of trees is carried out immediately after flowering. It will help get rid of pests - caterpillars, aphids, mites, leafworms and fungal diseases. Spray the garden with zinc sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, blue vitriol, Polyhom. To treat aphids, tobacco tincture is used (400 g of dry leaves per 10 liters of liquid), a decoction of tomato, potato, and wormwood leaves. Two weeks after flowering, another insecticide treatment is carried out - Benzophosphate, Karbofos or Chlorophos.

Spraying trees and shrubs in the fall from diseases and pests

Autumn pest control begins when the trees shed their leaves, in late October or November. Popular drugs used at this time include: Bordeaux liquid, copper and iron sulfate, urea. The treatment is designed to protect trees from fungal diseases.

Spraying trees with ammonia from birds

To scare away birds, spraying is carried out immediately after a good rain. The composition is prepared from 4 liters of water, 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap and 1 tbsp. l. ammonia. Spray fruit trees, shrubs and berries in the garden.

Spraying fruit trees with vinegar from pests

With the help of apple cider vinegar, they fight the codling moth. To prepare a solution, 200 ml of vinegar fermented for 3 days is diluted in 3 liters of water. Pour the resulting mixture into plastic bottles, and hung on the branches of trees at a height of 2 meters from the ground. Codling moth is collected in bottles. Traps are changed once a week.

With the help of ordinary vinegar, they fight aphids. A solution is added (1 tablespoon of vinegar per 1 liter of water), and the trees are sprayed 2 or 3 times with an interval of 10 days.

Treatment of trees with 5% iron, copper sulphate dosage and concentration, instructions for use

Iron vitriol is phytotoxic, so it is used for spraying after the foliage has fallen in the fall or before it appears in the spring. Approximately 1 tbsp. l. the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water to obtain a solution of 5% concentration. The solution is used immediately after preparation. During spraying, wear gloves, goggles and a respirator, as the product is poisonous.

Copper sulphate is treated with trees in the spring. Prepare a solution of 1% concentration (100 g of the drug per 10 liters of water) in plastic utensils. Spray trees with gloves and a respirator, as the solution is toxic.

Spraying trees with ash solution, calcium chloride with water, tobacco solution

To protect trees in the garden from fungal diseases and pests, an ash solution is used. 400 g of ash are dissolved in a small amount of water, the mixture is heated over low heat for half an hour. Then filter, mix with 40 ml of soap, bring the volume of the solution to 10 liters. And spray the trees.

To prepare a tobacco solution, 500 g of dry tobacco is poured into 10 liters of water, infused for a day, filtered, and the plants are sprayed.

For spraying with calcium chloride, a 0.5 or 1% solution is prepared (50 or 100 g of calcium per 10 liters of water). During the season, 5 treatments are carried out, the first one begins a month after flowering.

Spraying trees with a solution of potassium permanganate, urea, salt

A solution of potassium permanganate can increase the resistance of trees to fungal diseases. To prepare the mixture, 3 grams of potassium permanganate is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spray trees early in the morning or evening.

Plants are sprayed with urea 2 times per season - in early spring and late autumn. For spring processing, 500 g is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Such spraying will help destroy aphids, flower beetles, suckers, etc.

Garden pests are successfully destroyed with a salt solution. 1 kg of table salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water, and the trees are sprayed. In order for the pests to die, the salt composition must hold out on the leaves for 2 or 3 days.

Treatment of trees with laundry soap, tar, green

To protect against aphids, a solution is prepared from 10 liters of water and 200 grams of grated or liquid laundry soap. Spray trees in dry weather.

Treatment of trees with a solution tar soap repels many insects. To prepare it, 50 grams of tar soap are diluted in 10 liters of water (you can replace 1 tablespoon of tar).

Green soap based on potassium salt is used in different concentrations. It depends on the type of pest that is being controlled. For aphids, dilute 200 or 400 g of soap in 10 liters of water, for thrips 100 g in 10 liters, and 200 or 300 grams. Spraying is carried out 3 times per season.

Spraying trees with brilliant green and iodine in the country, tar, mustard

To combat late blight, 10 liters of water are mixed with a liter of whey, 40 drops of iodine and 1 tbsp. l. ammonia. Spray trees in dry weather.

With the help of brilliant green, they also fight late blight and powdery mildew. To do this, 40 drops of brilliant green are dissolved in a bucket of water. The resulting solution is sprayed on the trees.

Tar helps repel insect pests. To prepare a solution in 10 liters of water, dissolve 20 grams of liquid tar and 2 tablespoons of soap for better adhesion of the solution during spraying.

Trees are sprayed with a solution of mustard from pests 2 weeks after flowering. To prepare a solution, 100 grams of dry mustard powder is diluted in 10 liters of water, insisted for a day, diluted with water 2 times more, 50 grams of laundry soap are added.

Treatment of trees with succinic and boric acid during flowering

Succinic acid is a growth biostimulant. Spraying it with a solution of trees is carried out before and after flowering. For processing before flowering 10 grams succinic acid dissolved in 10 liters of water. After flowering, the solution is prepared from 20 grams of succinic acid and 10 liters of water.

To improve fruiting, trees are sprayed with a solution boric acid. For the first time, when buds appear (10 or 20 g of boric acid is diluted in 10 liters of water). The second dressing is done a week after the first. Spray trees in the morning or evening in dry weather. This procedure reduces the fall of the ovaries, improves the quality of the crop.

At the dacha, you want comfort and beauty so much! How to properly prepare the garden for future plantings, what to do with flowers, soil and trees in late autumn - in our material.

The main season of vegetables and fruits has passed, it's time to take care of preparing the garden for winter, or rather, its disinfection. In autumn, with high humidity in any area, the activity of pathogenic bacteria, fungi and pests of the garden increases. To prevent infection, it is necessary to take measures to protect the site.

Soil disinfection

After harvesting, the site from which it was harvested must be prepared for the next season. Digging up the soil or not depends on the agricultural technology that you use, but the disinfection of the earth is equally necessary for everyone. It should not be neglected, because pathogenic microorganisms, bacteria and pests could accumulate in the soil during the season.

most popular and in an efficient way disinfection with a solution of potassium permanganate (or simply potassium permanganate) is considered. Are these crystals dark color, which, dissolving in water, color it in shades of purple: at low concentration - in light pink, at high concentration - in purple.

Our grandmothers also knew about useful properties potassium permanganate: they washed wounds with it, treated poisoning, and used it in pest control in the garden. Such a widespread use of potassium permanganate explains its main property - it is an antifungal, antimicrobial drug. Due to active oxidation processes, potassium permanganate kills harmful microbes that cause various infections.

For autumn processing, a solution is made in the following proportion: 3-5 g (one bottle) of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water. They are watered the ground and left until spring.

The second most popular disease-fighting agent in the garden is copper sulfate (or copper sulfate). It is used both as a monopreparation and in combination with another chemical - slaked lime, obtaining a Bordeaux mixture. We will talk about it in more detail a little later, but now we will focus on the properties and characteristics of copper sulfate.

It is a bright blue crystals, the same shade has its aqueous solution. The substance perfectly copes with mold, fungus, pathogenic microorganisms. A solution for disinfecting the soil after harvesting is prepared as follows: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of copper sulfate. Water with this liquid should be moderate, since copper sulfate is a toxic substance.

In especially neglected cases, the soil can also be cultivated with ordinary bleach (bleach). It is produced in the form of a liquid (it is often used to bleach fabrics and disinfect surfaces) and powder. Approximately 100 g of bleach powder is added per 1 m2. It is scattered over the surface and embedded in the soil.

Approximately the same is done with formalin. Its effect is weaker compared to bleach - plants can be planted after formalin treatment in 15-20 days. First you need to dig grooves, pour formalin into them, cover with earth and leave for a while. After that, it is necessary to dig the earth well and leave it for two weeks. After that, the soil is again carefully dug up.

Boiling treatment. It also happens that there is nothing at all in the country: no special preparations, no other disinfectants, but you still need to cultivate the soil. Hot water will help. Yes, the most common boiling water can destroy pathogenic soil microorganisms. Here, in general, everything is simple: hot water fill a watering can with a sprinkler and water the surface of the earth. Then a well-spilled bed is covered with a film to keep the hot steam longer, and left in this form for a while.

Processing of trees and shrubs

SPRAYING. This is where Bordeaux liquid should be remembered. As we have already said, it is obtained from a mixture of copper sulfate and slaked lime in equal proportions or with a slight predominance of lime. Why is pure vitriol not used for tree processing? The fact is that its aqueous solution has an acidic environment, which can harm plants. Hydrated lime softens it, forming a turquoise-colored liquid suitable for spraying plants. It will help rid trees and shrubs of many diseases: gray rot, scab, purple spotting, coccomycosis, etc.

Spraying with urea also has a beneficial effect on plants. For example, if you carry out this procedure immediately after harvesting, thoroughly wetting the skeletal branches and trunk, you can protect trees and shrubs from scab. To prepare the solution, dilute 500 g of the product in 10 liters of water.

WHITEWASH. Autumn processing of trees also includes bark protection. In order not to find rather deep vertical cracks (frost cracks) on the trunk in the spring, a number of measures must be taken. Typically, these wounds are caused by sudden changes in temperature in winter, when the sun heats the bark during the day, and at night it cools sharply. Whitewashing the trunks will help to avoid this. The bark of young trees is very tender, so it does not have to be specially prepared, and old plants will have to be tinkered with.

Before you start painting trees, you need to prepare them. First you need to clean the trunk of moss, lichen, old peeling bark. This will not only make the whitewash better lie on the surface, but will also help to destroy insect pests that have prepared for wintering - the causative agents of many diseases: rust, powdery mildew, etc.

If possible, it is better to purchase a ready-made solution of water-dispersion paint. It already contains the additives necessary to protect the bark. The composition is also good because it does not prevent the tree from breathing and at the same time does not transmit ultraviolet radiation.

In the case when there was no paint, you can prepare whitewash yourself. You will need the most ordinary crushed chalk (ceiling whitewash). To prevent it from being washed away by the very first rain, wallpaper glue or starch is added to the solution, and for additional disinfection, copper sulfate is already well known to us (by the way, it will give the whitewash a beautiful light blue color). For 2 kg of whitewash, take 400 g diluted in hot water copper sulfate and 50 g of glue. The density of the solution is brought to the consistency of liquid sour cream - so that the paint does not drain from the barrel, but does not form a thick crust.

FUMIGATION. This method is used quite rarely because of its complexity and fire hazard. However, this is quite an effective and most environmentally friendly method for treating trees and shrubs from pests - carriers of diseases.

It is carried out as follows. Wet straw, fallen leaves or even peat are laid around the tree, on which several kilograms of tobacco dust (a by-product of tobacco production) - a natural insecticide - are poured. Some also use branches of coniferous trees, rich in essential oils, the smell of which is not tolerated by insects. Due to the fact that the base is wet, there will be practically no fire around the tree, but there will be plenty of smoke. It is this smoke that will cause the death of not only adult pests, but also their larvae.

In order not to burn the tree and not start a fire, you should follow the safety rules:
do not carry out processing in windy weather;
do not move away from smoldering straw;
constantly check for open fire;
have extinguishing agents with you.

Disinfection of utility rooms

It is also important to mention the disinfection of everything that helps us to receive, harvest or preserve the crop. We will talk about the disinfection of greenhouses and greenhouses, cellars, sheds, as well as garden tools.

GREENHOUSES AND GREENHOUSES. In order to have less work next year, you can tidy up the place for growing vegetables now. Greenhouses made of polycarbonate or glass are first cleaned of the ropes to which the plants were tied (after all, pathogens can also overwinter on them), and then the walls and frame are washed with a solution of bleach.

By and large, you can stop at this, but there is another way of disinfection - sulfur checkers. Such a checker is installed on a non-combustible base (for example, a piece of iron or bricks) in the center of the greenhouse and set on fire.

Don't forget to close all windows first. During the time that the checker is burning, acrid smoke will be released, which is extremely dangerous to inhale. It is he who will disinfect the room, penetrating into the smallest cracks. This method is also suitable for film greenhouses: until the film is removed, the smoke will disinfect the frame from the inside.

CELLAR AND SHED. Usually, for those who carefully manage the household, these rooms are always clean.

In the hozblok, before putting the inventory for storage, it will be enough to rinse the floor with bleach. If mold has formed somewhere or traces have become visible fungal disease- additional processing with copper sulphate is required. It is usually enough to process the cellars with the same sulfur bomb: the smoke will disinfect the vegetable store and thereby protect the new crop from spoilage. Sometimes, due to high humidity or flooding, cellar walls can become covered with mold and fungus. In this case, you will have to prepare a thick whitewash with a high concentration of copper sulfate and cover the surfaces with it.

GARDENING EQUIPMENT AND SHOES should also prepare for the new season. The first thing to do is to clear it of the remnants of earth, grass and leaves. Then, for disinfection, rinse with water with the addition of either bleach or potassium permanganate. Do not forget to treat the inventory shafts as well: bacteria can also persist on them. After that, garden tools must be dried and, if necessary, sharpened.

Information signs-beacons for landings should also not be thrown away. Collect them from all the beds and rinse with laundry soap, then dry - and they can be reused.

Garden gloves and aprons, depending on their quality and price, can also be saved: wash them by hand with laundry soap without adding any chemicals.

So next spring you will receive fully prepared inventory for the season.

EVENTUALLY
As you can see, garden disinfection is a very important and necessary process. It will not only disinfect the soil and cure the affected trees, but also protect healthy plants from infections, insects, and also allow you to get more high-quality crops.