Where to start a garden in the spring. Spring work in the garden. Sowing seeds and planting seedlings

We have prepared brief instructions for spring work in the garden and several "cheat sheets" with brief general information about plant life.

Early spring- time for preparing beds, sowing and caring for seedlings. And since we take care of the plants for the coming weeks and months, it does not hurt to refresh our heads with a brief general idea of ​​\u200b\u200btheir life.

The main thing

Vegetable Plants Need 5 Essential Factors environment: sunlight, heat, moisture, air, food. If all this is in abundance, then only then can we hope for full growth and a rich harvest. But the lack of any of these factors cannot be replaced by an excess of others, and it is this deficiency that will determine the future fate of the plant.

Photo: AiF / N. Belyavskaya

Greenhouse preparation

As soon as the weather permits, the soil in the greenhouse should be dug up onto a shovel bayonet. At the same time, fertilizers are applied: in the future cucumber bed - 5-6 kg of humus, 50 g of nitroammophoska or other complex fertilizer and 300 g of ash per 1 m   2. Where tomatoes, peppers and eggplant will grow, the dose of humus should be halved.

Warm beds

If you planned to do in a greenhouse warm beds for early sowing or planting, it is necessary to remove part of the soil (10-15 cm) and introduce biofuel in a layer of 20-30 cm into grooves 40 cm wide. Then pour 15-20 cm of fertile soil on top. Make ridges and cover them with a film to speed up heating and reduce heat loss.

Film greenhouse

It is necessary to stretch a new film on greenhouses in such a way that by the end of April, cold-resistant early ripening vegetables can be sown in it.

The first step is to prepare the frame. If necessary, it is repaired and painted in White color, since the film ages faster on a dark surface. Sharp corners and protruding parts of the frame are best wrapped with strips of old film or non-woven fabric.

Film for greenhouses can be combined into a single sheet right size soldering iron or iron through tracing paper or paper (film melting point - 120-140 ° C). So it will be easier to cover the greenhouse - in calm weather, the cloth is thrown over the frame and the edges are attached to the bottom of the structure.

Photo: AiF / T. Zavyalova

seeds

When purchasing seed, choose varieties recommended for your area - they are better adapted to the local climate and are more reliable. How do you know that a particular variety is zoned, because this information is usually not indicated on seed bags? Buyers have to trust sellers and specialist literature.

Clarifications from the Editor

A zoned variety is a variety included in the current Register of Breeding Achievements Russian Federation”and recommended for cultivation in one or more regions (it is in them that it has already successfully passed state tests).

Those who own the Internet can find out whether a variety has been zoned or not by going to the official resource of the State Commission of the Russian Federation for the Testing and Protection of Breeding Achievements: gossort.com. We find the “Register” section there and get into the “State Register of Breeding Achievements Approved for Use”. We select the culture we need (for example, we took a zucchini) and open the corresponding plate with varieties.

It may seem complicated, but we need only three adjacent columns - the name of the variety, its "year of birth" and the recommended growing regions, indicated by numbers from 1 to 12.

Residents of the Bryansk, Vladimir, Ivanovo, Kaluga, Moscow, Ryazan, Smolensk and Tula regions belong to the Central region. In the register, it is always indicated by the number 3. The gardens of summer residents of the Vologda, Kaliningrad, Kostroma, Leningrad, Novgorod, Pskov, Tver and Yaroslavl regions are located in the North-West region, which is marked with the number 2.

If the number of your region is indicated opposite the variety, then it is zoned there. For example, from our plate for the Moscow region, zucchini Apollo, Astoria and Aeronaut are recommended, and for the Leningrad region - Arlika and Aeronaut.

How many seeds do you need?

Seeding rates can be followed. For the final calculation, you need to know the approximate area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe beds.

Seeding rate, g/1 m 2
culture	Consumption
Pumpkin, zucchini, squash	0,3-0,5
Peas	15-25
Cabbage	0,2-0,3
Carrot, parsley	0,4-0,6
Radish	1,5-2,0
radish	0,5-1,0
Turnip	0,1-0,2
Salad	0,1-0,3
Beetroot	0,8-1,6
Beans	7-14

"Repeaters"

Last year's seeds should not be used without germination testing. It is done like this: you need to take 10-100 seeds of each type of vegetable, spread them evenly between the sheets paper napkins, place on a plate and moisten well. The temperature should be constantly around 20 ° C, and the napkin should be damp all the time. After seed germination, conclusions are drawn: if the germination rate does not exceed 10%, then sowing does not make sense. If 40% of the seeds germinated, the seeding rate should be doubled.

Sowing preparation

There are many ways to prepare seeds for seedbeds, aimed at obtaining friendly seedlings of healthy plants and increasing yields.

First you need to select the largest and "poured" seeds. Tomato and pumpkin seeds (except cucumber) are kept in a 1% potassium permanganate solution for 20 minutes, and then washed in water. Against fungal and bacterial diseases of cabbage, carrots, parsley, celery and beets, the seeds are heated in water at a temperature of 45-50 ° C for 20 minutes, followed by cooling.

Photo: AiF / T. Zavyalova

Attention!

All methods of "home" seedbed preparation refer to seed, which has not undergone industrial processing. If the seeds are colored bright colors, they are sown without additional manipulations.

Soaking is carried out immediately before sowing. Seeds swell, their shell softens and is freed from substances that inhibit germination. Pumpkin, cabbage, turnip, rutabaga, radish, radish, and legume seeds need twice their volume to soak, while carrots, parsley, parsnips, dill, beets, lettuce, and onion seeds need four times as much.

The duration of soaking at a temperature of 20-25 °C also depends on the crop. For cabbage, lettuce, turnip, radish, rutabaga, radish, pumpkin need 12 hours, for tomato, pepper, eggplant, beets, carrots, parsley, dill, parsnip, celery - 48 hours, and the water must be changed 2-3 times a day .

Photo: AiF / N. Belyavskaya

The arrival of an early harvest is accelerated by additional seed stimulation. For her, an infusion of wood ash is suitable: 2 tbsp. spoons are poured into 1 liter of water, insisted for 1 day, then the seeds are kept in a filtered solution for 6 hours. A 24-hour “bath” of seeds in diluted aloe juice is effective: 1 part juice 2 parts water.

The soil

A loose root layer gives the roots the opportunity to breathe and develop well without interference. As a result, the root system absorbs nutrients more efficiently, which will positively affect plants and crops. If the earth is loose, it is easier to deal with weeds and pests.

Sowing and planting of cold-resistant crops should be carried out when the soil is in a soft-plastic state. It is not difficult to determine it: the soil easily rolls into a non-disintegrating tourniquet 3-4 mm thick and does not stain hands (we are talking about loamy and clay soils. - Note. ed. ). During this period, the soil has already warmed up enough and contains the optimal amount of moisture. It stays like this for about two weeks.

Photo: AiF / E. Shutova Plants contain quite a lot of water. It maintains them in an elastic state and participates in all vital processes. With the help of water, nutrients move through the plant body, and evaporation protects it from overheating. With its lack of vegetables become coarse, hard, bitter in taste. On the contrary, with an excess of water during cultivation, the products will be watery, slightly aromatic, tasteless.

If the soil breaks into small pieces when rolling, but still forms a cohesive piece when squeezed, this is a hard-plastic state, which means that seeds and seedlings will need additional watering. If, when squeezed, the lump does not change shape and the pieces do not stick together, then the conditions for seed germination and seedling survival are very poor: there is no water in the upper soil layer.

spring digging

It is necessary to dig up the earth right before sowing or planting, so that moisture does not evaporate. If the digging is done, and the sowing is pushed back, the prepared bed can be covered old film by carefully pressing the edges with soil or stones.

In the spring they dig with the obligatory turnover of the reservoir. Even if you did the same work in the fall, this event must be repeated in the spring in order to detect and select the rhizomes of perennial weeds and soil pests - wireworms (larvae of the click beetle) and others. At the same time, fertilizers and other additives can be applied to the soil.

What to contribute?

Before digging, spread evenly over the entire surface of the emerging ridge mineral fertilizers. For 1 m 2 contribute: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, chlorine-free potassium fertilizer (30 g each per 1 m 2) or complex fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (100-120 g). Organic fertilizers are added right along the way in every third or fourth groove between the dug up and undigged parts of the soil.

Fresh manure can only be applied for cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin (5-8 kg per 1 m 2). If you "treat" them with potatoes, then this will cause him a scab disease; carrots, parsnips, root parsley will react with branching of root crops; in manured onions, the bulbs will ripen later. Semi-rotted manure and compost are applied under cabbage, potatoes, rutabaga (4-6 kg per 1 m 2). Carrots, parsley, parsnips, celery, turnip onions, radishes, lettuce, dill are grown in areas where organic fertilizers were applied last year. On poor soils for these crops, 2-3 kg per 1 m 2 of only completely decomposed manure or compost (humus) can be applied. Duration of action organic fertilizers on heavy soils - up to 3-4 years, on sandy soils - up to 2 years.

If there is a need for liming in the spring, then chalk, hydrated, quicklime, dolomite flour, cement dust, wood ash and other calcium-containing materials - 300-500 g per 1 m 2 - are scattered evenly on the soil surface along with mineral fertilizers and immediately dug up to prevent loss of nitrogen from mineral fertilizers.

Are garden beds necessary?

In the conditions of the North-West and in damp areas, it is better to grow vegetable crops on ridges or ridges - the soil in them warms up faster in spring and is freed from excess moisture. On light soils, the ridges are made up to 10 cm high, on loamy soils - up to 15-20, a convenient width - 1 m. In the process of forming the beds, the soil is loosened and leveled with a rake. The edges are formed so that along them rollers 5-8 cm high are obtained: they will prevent the erosion of the soil during irrigation or rain.

Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are the main nutrients that plants need. Most of all they need nitrogen, which promotes the growth of green leaf mass. Phosphorus gives plants energy and promotes root development, builds resistance to disease, and influences flower and fruit set. Potassium is involved in the formation of tissues and the construction of the whole plant, promotes the development of powerful roots. Increases resistance of plants to diseases and their cold resistance, provides better product safety. In addition to these three elements, plants need calcium, magnesium and trace elements in small quantities. Apart from them, vegetable crops humus (humus) is needed.

Sowing

The optimum temperature for seed germination of cold-resistant vegetable plants is 20-25 °C, and for heat-loving plants - 25-30 °C.

Photo: AiF / N. Belyavskaya

Sowing dates*

Sowing begins when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 3-5 ° C. Around this time, coltsfoot blooms en masse. You can sow cold-resistant crops: carrots, parsnips, parsley, dill, radishes, spinach, turnips, onions (seeds), lettuce, Beijing cabbage, peas, coriander (cilantro), watercress, mustard leaf. At the same time, seedlings of early, late white cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli are planted.

From May 20, when the soil warms up to 5-8 ° C (landmark - birch leaves reach the size of a coin of 10 kopecks), it's time to sow beets and beans. And only in late May - early June, if the soil temperature rises to 12-15 ° C (dandelions bloom), heat-loving crops are sown: cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini, beans, fennel, basil.

Affects all vital processes occurring in the plant throughout its existence. Although we may think that in open ground we can't regulate the temperature, it's not like that at all. Lighter soils, ridges and ridges, a mulched surface allow the roots to warm up faster during the day and cool less at night, and it is always warmer in places protected from the wind. If the weather is too hot, refreshing watering will help the plants.

If the cold weather drags on, the sowing and planting of heat-loving crops and potatoes can be shifted by more late dates. There is no need to rush here.

Seeding technologies

Dry soil before sowing must be thoroughly loosened and shed to a depth of at least 15-20 cm, then make grooves and sow the seeds, trying to comply with the seeding rate. Thickened sowing in the future will bring you a lot of trouble and problems. Shoots in the "brush" will stretch, the plants will shade each other.

When sowing any crops, ash is added (1 cup per running meter) or superphosphate (20 g), since phosphorus from the first days promotes the active growth of the root system.

The lack of nutrients in the soil affects the plant from the first days, and in the future it is almost impossible to completely compensate for their deficiency. Therefore, the main pre-sowing and pre-planting fertilization (during digging) is mandatory. In the future, periodic top dressing will also be needed.

For a normal life, plants need oxygen, and not only to all above-ground parts, but also to the roots and seeds sown in the soil. Leaves also need carbon dioxide, which is actively involved in the processes of organic synthesis.

The depth of sowing depends on the size of the seeds and the characteristics of the soil. Light, loose soils require deeper incorporation than heavy soils. The smaller the seeds, the closer to the surface they should be.

Small seeds of carrots, parsley, onions, radishes, various kinds cabbages are usually sown to a depth of 1-2 cm. Larger seeds - beets, spinach, cucumber - by 2-4 cm. Peas, beans, melon, zucchini and squash are deepened by 3-5 cm, onion sets - by 4-9 cm, pumpkin - 6-10 cm.

It is impossible to water immediately after sowing - the water will wash the seeds to a great depth and displace the air necessary for seed germination from the soil pores.

Photo: AiF / T. Zavyalova

Nuances

Zucchini, squash and cucumber seeds cannot be germinated. In the future, this threatens with diseases of the root system - rot. They can only be soaked for 12-24 hours in aloe extract, or in ash infusion, or in a solution of baking soda (5 g per 1 liter of water) or a soluble complex fertilizer (1 g per 1 liter). In the same solutions, you can soak the seeds of beets, onions, radishes and other crops.

It is good if high-stemmed plants grow in the open ground on adjacent rows on both sides of the cucumber and zucchini: beans, corn, peas. With such protection, the air temperature in cool weather around the "sissies" will be 2-5 ° C higher than in open space.

Early ripening greens: dill, lettuce, coriander, watercress, Beijing cabbage can be sown in portions throughout the summer at intervals of 10-15 days. In the North-West, it is better to sow radishes before the end of May, then take a break for the period of white nights until the end of July. With a long daylight hours, this culture does not form a root crop, but immediately proceeds to flowering.

Crops can be covered with old film, paper or a light, breathable and moisture-permeable non-woven material. Non-woven can remain on the ridges long time- under it, young plants will be better protected from frost, and then from pests.

Seeds germinate if there is at least 10% oxygen in the soil air. Usually it is sufficient, but with severe waterlogging, dense soil and under the soil crust, gas exchange in germinating seeds is hindered, which often leads to inhibition and death of seedlings.

Landing

Landing on permanent place any seedlings, it is good to add 0.5 handfuls of humus, 5-6 peas of superphosphate or one tablespoon of ash to each well.

Timing

From about May 20, you can plant seedlings of cauliflower, celery, lettuce, onions, onion sets, garlic, potatoes, seedlings of medium varieties of white cabbage.

The end of May is the right time for planting seedlings of broccoli, kohlrabi, and leek in open ground.

Seedlings of tomato and pumpkin crops are determined for permanent residence in the open air not earlier than June 10, when the danger of frost has passed. In the greenhouse, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers are planted earlier - be guided by the weather and, just in case, cover the plants.

This is the main source of energy that is spent on the formation (synthesis) of organic matter in leaves, vitamins and other needed by the plant connections. All vegetable plants need light, but some crops are considered more demanding (these are vegetables with edible fruits: tomato, pepper, cucumber, eggplant, pumpkin, beans), others - less (root vegetables, lettuce, cabbage, perennial vegetables).

Photo: AiF / N. Belyavskaya

Landing nuances

bulbs onion for seedlings for friendly germination, before planting, soak in warm (40 ° C) water for 2-6 hours and cut off “on the shoulders”, if it has not yet sprouted, or cut the bottom crosswise.

Plant seedlings of all crops better evening, wells before planting are abundantly watered to the depth of the arable layer. Plants are buried in the soil to the first true leaf, trying not to cover the growing point. The soil around the plants is mulched with a layer of 1-2 cm with peat, wet compost, humus and not watered, but only sprinkled with water. Post-plant watering will compact the soil, which can crust over.

For safety net, planted seedlings can be covered with non-woven material.

It is important to prevent thickening, thin out and remove weeds in time. Rows of plants are best placed from north to south so that they are evenly lit in the morning and afternoon. In the greenhouse, it is advisable to monitor the cleanliness of the roof: wash glass or polycarbonate, replace the film in time.

Competent work in the spring in the garden and vegetable garden are very important agrotechnical measures that allow you to perform the correct planting and get the highest possible yield.

Spring work in the garden and garden: when and where to start

Be sure to check and prepare for the upcoming season.

A number of activities are also required, including cleaning, pruning, removal of shelters, prevention, preparation for grafting and planting. As a rule, in the southern regions, such work can begin as early as March. IN middle lane our country and the northern regions, the deadlines are shifted by a couple of weeks.

gardening in spring

It is necessary to start carrying out the first spring work in the garden with the onset of the first warm days and after the majority of the snow cover has melted.

Garden cleaning after winter

Cleaning consists in removing all plant debris, as well as revision of the soil and garden plantings in the country. It is early spring - the period of the appearance of the first weeds. Roots that are not yet strong enough are easily removed from moist spring soil. The first warm spring days provoke active growth of shoots not only on the soil, but also on the surface of garden paths, which should be thoroughly washed with a strong jet of water from an ordinary garden hose.

Should be remembered that any spring activities related to water should be carried out only at positive temperatures, which will prevent the formation of ice. All planting containers, as well as flowerpots, planters and flower pots, intended for growing plants in the coming season, also need revision, high-quality cleaning, and, if necessary, restoration of integrity.

Work in the garden in early spring (video)

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs

In the spring, in most cases, sanitary cleaning is carried out, as well as removal of all old and redundant shoots and branches:

• annual raspberry shoots need to be crowned by cutting off the top five buds, which allows stimulating the formation of new root shoots. All frozen weakened shoots are subject to removal;
• currant bushes thin out in spring. On chokeberry, branches older than seven years are removed. On bushes of red and white-fruited currants, branches older than ten years should be cut. You also need to cut out excess root shoots and weakened shoots. All frozen tops are cut;
• starting from the age of three, it is required to thin out gooseberry bushes, as well as remove old branches and excess shoots, which improves the illumination of fruits and increases productivity;

• it is necessary to do spring pruning of bushy varieties of cherries very carefully, removing thickening and old branches, taking into account fruiting on last year's peripheral branches. It is best to shorten in the summer, after fruiting;
• the annual spring formation of fruit plantations allows maintaining the habitus and improves insolation of the aerial part. Any molding must be done with the determination of the direction of growth processes of skeletal branches;
• plums are best grown in stems, as bushy forms thicken faster and become less fruitful. Formation begins almost immediately after planting seedlings in a permanent place, which will create a productive crown by four to five years.

It is possible to form a crown of fruit trees in a tiered-sparse, horizontal or saucer-shaped, as well as a vertical or palmette version.

Rules and terms for removing winter shelters

or special designs must be inspected, thoroughly cleaned and rinsed.

After winter shelters dry, they can be put away for storage until the autumn cold. From the garden area, necessarily old and cut branches in the process of spring formation, fallen leaves and withered grass, as well as any other debris of plant and non-plant origin.

March in the country: protecting plants from sunburn in early spring

In the first decade of March, the illumination increases, therefore, in the daytime, the stem part and branches of garden plantations are able to warm up significantly, therefore, during night frosts, the heated wood dies off. For areas with sunburn darkening, peeling and cracking are observed.

Whitewashing the trunk and branching of skeletal branches can effectively reduce the heating of the bark. It is best to whitewash garden plantings in the fall or in the last decade of February, choosing a dry and sunny day for this purpose. Before proceeding with processing, it is necessary to revise the plants and, if necessary, take preventive or therapeutic measures. Whitewashing can be done with acrylic water-dispersion paint "VD-AK 0508" or "Dekoprof" means. It is also allowed to tie the stem part with white parchment.

How to process trees in spring (video)

How and how to treat trees in the spring from pests

The processing time varies depending on the type of plants and the composition of the solutions used for spraying:

• prevention of fungal diseases, damage by mosses and lichens before bud break, copper sulphate, diluted at the rate of 100-150 g per bucket of water;
• spraying the vine and soil around before bud break from bacterial cancer, spotted necrosis and anthracnose with iron sulphate at the rate of 200 g per bucket of water;
• mandatory processing of garden plantings before flowering from California scale insects, suckers, mites, weevils and flower beetles "Iskra-M", "Fufanon", "Iskra-double effect", "Karbofos", "Aliot" or "Biotlin";
• processing currants with "Commander", "Bison", "Tanrek", "Iskra Zolotoy" or "Inta-Vir" on blossoming buds and first leaves;
• processing gooseberries with "Topaz" or "Soon" before flowering.

It is also necessary to spray peach, apricot and cherry in order to protect against maniliosis, curliness and clasterosporiasis with "Horus", "Cuprolux", "Abiga-Peak" or "Ordan" after flowering.

Grafting and planting trees

As a rule, by the first decade of May, the planting of fruit and berry trees and shrubs is already over, and the time for grafting has come. It is best to perform such an event when the buds swell and slightly begin to open on the selected rootstocks. Spring grafting can be done in several ways:

• Copulation;
• butt;
• split;
• saddle;
• In a side cut.

Regardless of the method used, a prerequisite for obtaining a good result is the use of quality tool and special grafting tape.

Things to do in the garden in spring

In the spring, it is time for the main preparatory activities in the garden and in greenhouses. During this period, you need to pay attention to winter crops, perennial crops, as well as prepare open ground ridges and in greenhouses for planting and sowing.

Main activities

The garden is cleared of debris and plant residues. It is also required to remove all the shelters that were covered on winter period winter crops and the least cold-resistant garden crops.

As soon as the greenhouse soil warms up, it is necessary to dig it into one bayonet of a shovel. At the same time, the main fertilizers are required:

• on cucumber ridges is applied to each square meter about 5–6 kg of high-quality humus, with the addition of 50 g of any complex fertilizer and a couple of glasses of wood ash;
• on ridges prepared for growing tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, the dose of humus will need to be halved;
• when preparing “warm ridges”, the top 15 cm of soil should be removed, after which the biomass should be laid and sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

In the same period, film garden structures should be prepared. The time of stretching the film cover on the greenhouses must be calculated in such a way that in the last ten days of April it would be possible to sow the most cold-resistant and early ripening garden crops.

Important check the condition of the aerial part of the garden berries and replace the old mulch layer. It is best to use organic matter as mulch, presented:

• sawdust;
• compost;
• tree bark and chips;
• straw;
• rotted leaves.

A good result is the use of a mulching covering fabric. In March or April, garden soil is fertilized with complex universal fertilizers "Nitroammofoska" or "Azofoska".

When to start planting in the country

Sowing and planting cold-resistant garden crops should be done while the soil is still in a soft and plastic state. During such a period, the soil is already warm enough and contains the amount of moisture that is optimal for the growth and development of crops.

It is recommended to dig the earth immediately before sowing or planting, which will not allow moisture to evaporate. If necessary, all dug-up ridges, in order to preserve moisture, must be covered with plastic wrap before sowing, which is fixed with stones.

How to prune berry bushes in spring (video)

The harvest will depend on how correctly and in a timely manner the entire volume of spring work in gardens and orchards will be carried out. That is why the spring period is the most responsible time for everyone who is engaged in private gardening and vegetable growing.

The snow melted, the first Sun rays the earth begins to warm up, and all gardeners and gardeners are already in the country. Many will ask themselves: What can be done at this time in the garden, because there may still be frost? Experienced gardeners will answer that the season garden work ends when severe frosts set in and starts as soon as the thermometer shows plus. We will talk about the mandatory spring work in the country below.

• Trampling snow around trees. In this way, you can harm the roots of trees. The snow will melt longer, the roots will not be able to feed useful substances, as well as the soil to warm up longer.
• Scatter fertilizers, manure, peat, ash over the snow - it is better to do this in the fall, then the nutrients will enter the fertile layer, and not go deeper or evaporate with water.
• Upholstering snow and ice from branches, this method will only damage them and may leave them without a crop.
• early boarding young, awakened seedlings.

Before moving on to any work in the garden, they make up a checklist in which they consistently draw up a work plan, taking into account the weather conditions.

TOP 10 spring jobs

Cleaning old leaves, branches

The first work in the garden is better to start with cleaning the leftovers on personal plot. During autumn, a lot of foliage can attack, winds can cause different branches and grass. Therefore, cleaning is carried out with a rake with frequent teeth, which removes all plant debris, leaves and even possible pests wintering in them. If the garden was not dug up for the winter, then garbage collection with a rake will make it possible to make additional loosening of the compacted soil after snow.

Sowing green manure and fertilizing

Every year, when planting different crops, the soil becomes poorer, so many use it to fill it with nutrients. different types top dressing and sowing green manure.

In early spring, as soon as the snow melts and all the garbage is removed from the site, frost-resistant green manure is sown. The soil is shallowly dug up, harrowed, made soft and fluffy so that the film that formed after the snow melted disappears. It was also convenient to sow green manure. Harrowing will increase the air and water permeability of the soil.

Most often, gardeners choose siderates that are sown in late autumn or early spring:

• rye;
• rape;
• mustard;
• oats;
• phacelia;
• buckwheat;
• legumes (peas, beans, vetch plant)

Green manure can be sown both in ordinary rows and randomly scattered throughout the site. The green manure seedlings are mowed before they bloom, when they reach 8-12 cm. After that, they are evenly scattered over the site and the beds are dug up for sowing. Plant the first crops after mowing in 20-45 days, so that green manure has time to overheat.

Before digging up the garden, instead of green manure, other types of fertilizers are introduced, namely: rotted manure, litter, peat, leafy or soddy soil, compost, urea, saltpeter.

Trimming trees, shrubs

Prune early blooming and early varieties trees, shrubs:

• apricot;
• plum;
• cherry;
• cherries;
• gooseberry;
• currant;
• pear;
• Apple tree;
• peach.

Ornamental perennials, conifers are also cut.
Carry out pruning of old, frozen, cracked trunks and shoots. In the spring, it will be necessary to carry out not only sanitary pruning, but also forming. So gooseberry bushes, currants, yoshtas are pruned every 3-5 years. In pears, apple trees, first cut large branches and shoots growing inward. Then, on annuals, the 3rd part of the shoot above the bud is cut off, fruiting branches are formed.

Pruning is carried out before the start of sap flow. IN different regions deadlines may be subject to change. A stable weather to warming of at least +5 degrees should form.

Before pruning, a garden pitch is prepared, which will need to cover up the cut points, as well as sharpen the tool (saw, pruner) and process disinfectant. It is not worth cutting the same trees every year, otherwise it will come to its weakening and death.

Spraying against pests

During the spring, experienced gardeners spray 3-4 times, this can significantly reduce the number of pests on the site.

Spraying is carried out starting from March, at a positive temperature in the daytime, so that the preparations dry up on the branches and suddenly a frost does not damage them at night. The difference between the procedures should be at least 7 days and not more than 14.

• The first spraying, as soon as the snow melted - with Karbofos, Aktelik, Bordeaux liquid, copper sulphate.
• The second, when the kidneys swelled - Nitrofen, Hom.
• The third, when the buds began to bloom and the leaves are already forming - Aktara, Bazudin, Chlorophos.
• The fourth full blooming of leaves and flowers - Inta-Vir, Bordeaux liquid, Fitoverm.

In spring, not only the trees themselves are sprayed, but also the soil around them: many pests live in the soil. Gardeners, after spraying from a number of diseases and pests, spill the soil with various disinfectants: a solution of manganese, iodine, fluff, but only if frost is not expected.

Such treatment will reduce the population of awakened pests and protect plants from damage and diseases: aphids, weevils, sawflies, whiteflies, cherry and iris flies, Maybug, bronzovki, leaflet, spider and fruit mites.

Trunk whitewashing

In the middle lane and southern regions, whitewashing is carried out until the first days of March, in colder regions - until April. Before the procedure, the bark is first cleaned of dirt and dried parts with a brush. They whiten the trunks with slaked lime, adding complex preparations from pests and diseases. The age of shrubs and trees is taken into account, so it is better to whitewash young plants with smooth bark up to 3–5 years old with special paints, because the fluff will leave a burn. Spring whitewashing should be larger, like an autumn safety net.

What can be whitened, except fluff:

• Concord-Ost;
• Arbo-Flex;
• Gardener;
• paint Luck;
• Michurinka-2;
• Green Square.

Some new paints, especially acrylics, protect trees better and last longer. Whitening the trees, they avoid covering the cut points, they are covered with garden pitch. And also do not cover sleeping kidneys, but paint with whitewash around them with a thin brush.

Preparing a greenhouse and picking seedlings

Preparatory work in greenhouses begins at the end of February:

• Inspect the structure and containers for seedlings for damage, underheating, rot. If shortcomings were found, then they are eliminated, holes are closed, boards, oilcloth, containers are changed.
• The premises are cleaned with disinfectants, glass, film are cleaned, soil is spilled with manganese, bleach or fumigated with sulfur vapor.
• Partial soil replacement. Take off upper layer 5–8 cm, nutrient mixtures from peat, leafy, soddy soil, black soil, peat, biohumus, compost, rotted manure and litter are introduced from above.
• After that, the soil in the greenhouse is dug up, the boulders are finely crushed.
• The prepared soil is treated with boiling water to thaw the bottom layer of soil and kill the remaining pests.

After preparing the greenhouse in a few days, they are sown planting material or dive seedlings that were grown in room conditions. Picking is carried out for different cultures. To do this, the tip of the root is cut off to stimulate the growth of the lateral and form a strong stem. Seedlings dive when the real, first 2-3 leaves appear. Before manipulation, the seedlings are watered so that the soil is soaked and it is easier to get the seedlings out of it. After picking for 7-10 days, the growth of seedlings stops: the root mass grows. After the growth of a large number of lateral roots, the plant begins to grow sharply, and the stem becomes stronger.

Sowing resistant crops in open ground

In warm southern regions, sowing is carried out from February, in the middle lane, the Moscow region - from March, cold regions - from April to early May.

What to sow? Which crops will not freeze if there is a temperature difference? Such questions concern many novice gardeners.

They will respond most favorably to early sowing and well-moistened soil after snow:

• sorrel;
• black onion, sevok;
• parsley;
• dill;
• garlic;
• celery;
• fennel;
• basil;
• radish;
• radish;
• carrot;
• peas;
• beans;
• parsnip;
• potato;
• spinach.

The optimal time for planting these crops is when the soil warms up to + 5 ... 7 degrees. At this time, it is better to follow the weather forecast in order to have time to cover the soil with oilcloth for the night, if there are suddenly frosts on the soil.

Grafting work

Work on grafting trees and shrubs is carried out from March to early June. Scion (cuttings) are prepared in the fall. The main condition is that the buds have not yet blossomed. Before grafting work, they prepare garden pitch, electrical tape, oilcloth, sharp knives and secateurs, treated with alcohol or other disinfectant, and decide on the method of grafting. Stone fruit trees are grafted from the beginning of March, especially early varieties. Pome species from April, starting from early varieties, and closer to June - late varieties.

Spring vaccination methods:

• budding;
• improved copulation;
• in a split;
• for the bark;
• in an oblique side cut;
• ablactation.

Spring vaccination will quickly show whether it was done correctly or not, often such plants are stronger and bear fruit in the second year.

Removal of shelters

With the onset of a consistently warm temperature, excluding night frosts and sharp drops, from April they begin to remove shelters from fruit bushes and various ornamental shrubs and flowers. After the shelter has been removed, the bushes are inspected for the presence of pests, diseases and damaged shoots.

Sanitary and formative pruning is carried out, after which they are sprayed with fungicide and insecticide. After processing at night, the bushes are again covered with burlap or film. Within a few days, they remove the shelter, and cover it again at night. Thus, the plant is stimulated to awaken the kidneys. When they germinate, the shelter is completely removed, the soil around the shrub is shed with a phytocomplex from pests and fungi.

Renovation of flower beds and lawn

In spring, special attention is paid to broken flower beds, especially if early varieties of flowers (primroses) were planted there.

• Last year's foliage is carefully removed from the flower beds. It is better to carry out this procedure manually so that the rake does not catch the breaking sprouts.
• Loosen the soil around the sprouts with a small rake and mulch the compost or rotted manure.
• If roots or bulbs are exposed, sprinkle with soil and compact.
• For climbing plants, put props.

They also plant new flower beds or sow flower seeds. Open hilled irises, peonies, hydrangeas, roses, hostas, chrysanthemums, roses. You can sow stable flowers from the end of March: nasturtium, calendula, marigolds, forget-me-nots, escholcia, poppy, kosmeya.

There is always more work with the lawn in the spring, usually after the snow melts, bald patches and yellowed spots form on it. Required:

1. Make a drain for melt water.
2. Level and roll the lawn. After the snow melts, bumps may appear in some places.
3. Comb out dead parts and caked dried grass, leaves.
4. Pierce the lawn in different places for admission additional air And nutrients.
5. In this way, the lawn is aerated, which solves the problem of further dampening of pieces of the lawn.
6. Seeding a new lawn to fill bald spots.

After the resuscitation of the lawn, it is watered with warm water with fertilizers or pest control agents.

When all preparatory work carried out, they are moving on to the main ones: planting and sowing other more heat-loving crops, ornamental plants, flowers, as well as planting seedlings of shrubs and trees.

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With the end of winter, nature gradually comes to life, and new chores are added to gardeners. In this article we will tell you what spring work in the garden and garden must be done so that all plants on the site develop well and give good harvest.

Work in the country after the winter begins with the care of the garden. It is important not to miss precious time, since many activities need to be carried out before active sap flow and swelling of the kidneys. The health of trees and shrubs depends on how well the spring work in the garden is done.

Spring work in the garden

With the advent of spring, the first thing to do is to clear the garden of last year's foliage, windbreak and other debris that has accumulated over the winter. In plant residues, spores of fungal diseases and pest larvae can overwinter, so they are taken out of the site and burned. As the air temperature rises, winter shelters are gradually removed from trees and shrubs.

Before the start of sap flow, it is necessary to prune fruit and ornamental plants in the garden. Young seedlings, as well as ornamental early-flowering shrubs, are not pruned in spring; only damaged branches can be removed from them. For fruit trees, shaping and rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

Early spring is the time for the prevention of garden diseases and pests. Before the buds swell, the trees are sprayed with iron sulfate, Bordeaux liquid or urea to destroy the fungal pores. If an invasion of pests was noticed in the previous year, the garden is treated with Agrovertin, Iskra-Bio, or Fitoverm.

Tree trunks need protection in spring. After the winter, wind breaks and frost cracks may appear on them, which must be covered with clay mash or garden pitch. To protect against pests, trees are whitewashed with special paints, or "in the old fashioned way" they use lime mortar with the addition of copper sulfate.

In April they vaccinate fruit trees. First stone fruits, and a little later pome fruits. As a scion, pre-harvested cuttings or material after early spring pruning are used.

In the spring, plants in the garden need top dressing. Dry nitrogen-containing fertilizers (urea, ammophoska, ammonium nitrate) are scattered around the perimeter of the crown. After that, surface loosening of the soil is carried out, closing up fertilizers. From organics, you can make an infused solution of chicken manure or rotted manure. After fertilization, the soil under the trees and bushes is mulched with humus.

Work in the garden in the spring does not stop even after the beginning of flowering trees. Recurrent frosts often occur, and fumigation of gardens with smoke bombs or bonfires is used to protect against them. Reduce exposure low temperatures a humid environment also helps, so they put water containers under the trees, spill the soil and wet the branches.

Work in the garden in spring

In the garden in spring, there is no less trouble than in the garden. During this period, it is necessary to carefully prepare the soil for planting vegetables in order to get a good harvest. As soon as the snow melts, the beds are cleared of debris accumulated over the winter. It is advisable to burn the waste outside the site to prevent the spread of diseases and pests wintering in them. Cleans not only the soil, but also garden paths, on which garden debris accumulates and moss can grow.

After completing the cleaning, mineral fertilizers are applied. In the spring, urea, nitrophoska, ammophoska and other fertilizers containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are used. When the soil dries out a little, compost or humus is added. After that, the beds are dug up or deeply loosened. During loosening, young shoots of weeds must be immediately removed, as well as pests encountered.

spring work in the garden and vegetable garden include measures to improve the structure of the soil. River sand, ripened humus, and small sawdust are added to areas with heavy soil. Clay is added to sandy soil to make it more moisture-intensive. If necessary, regulate the acidity of the soil. Lime, ash, or dolomite flour are added for deoxidation, and sulfur (70 g per sq.m), malic or acetic acid is used to increase the pH level (acidification).

When the soil is prepared and fertilized, beds can be laid out on the site. For landing early vegetables create artificial heating of the soil. To do this, the beds are covered with dark material (black agrofiber or polyethylene) about two weeks before sowing.

When working in the garden in spring, special attention should be paid to beds with strawberries and raspberries. Shelter is removed from strawberries, dead bushes are removed, the soil is loosened and mulched. Raspberries are tied to trellises and sanitary pruning is carried out.

In the spring, cold-resistant vegetables and greens are sown in the garden: radishes, peas, lettuce, sorrel, onions, early carrots, beets. These crops develop well and yield even when sown in cold ground.

In flower beds in the spring, division of the rhizomes of perennials is carried out. Plants with overwintering foliage are renewed by removing frozen and damaged shoots, and plantings of early-flowering bulbs are loosened. Complexes of mineral fertilizers are introduced into flower beds as top dressings. To prevent diseases, flower beds are treated with copper-containing preparations.

Lawn care after winter

With the advent of spring, the lawn comes to life. Already at a temperature of plus 5 degrees Celsius, the grass begins to grow and requires attention. As soon as the snowmelt begins, mineral fertilizers are scattered over the lawn, which are dominated by nitrogen: ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, urea.

Cleaning the lawn begins after the soil dries. Leaves and debris are raked with a fan rake, after which scarification is performed. This procedure is also called "combing", is performed with a garden rake, a special manual fixture, or a scarifier device. It is necessary in order to break the integrity of the dense grass turf, renew it, and enable young shoots to develop.

After stratification, it is necessary to carry out aeration - piercing the turf and the top layer of soil to saturate the soil with oxygen. Do this using a pitchfork, an aerator or special shoe covers.

After cleaning, potholes are clearly visible, which may remain from accidental movement on a damp lawn, or when the soil settles. If the turf layer is not broken, it is dug up and sand is poured under it. Damaged areas of the lawn are cut out with a shovel and removed, the resulting pits are also covered with sand. After that, they are sown to restore a uniform lawn.

Outcome

With the advent of spring, it is necessary to pay attention to the garden and prepare fruit trees and bushes for the new growing season. In the garden, you need to improve the quality of the soil so that the vegetables give a good harvest, and in flower beds, take care of perennials. Gardening in the spring is hard work, but the end result will be a well-groomed yard with strong, healthy plants.

It always starts with tillage. To do this, use different garden tools: hoes, rakes, "cats" and cultivators. After digging, loosen the soil properly. The depth of loosening should not be too large: a maximum of 2-3 cm. The roots of plants grow better and develop precisely in loose soil because it is well supplied with oxygen. In the process of loosening, also cut and destroy weeds. It is better to get rid of them at the seedling stage than to deal with them later. tall grass. If you carried out a very deep digging of the soil, then the seeds of many weeds remained in lower layers earth. And from there they usually do not germinate.

Fertilization

In the spring, add only humus to the soil, and leave the compost and manure for the fall. Traditional application rate of organic fertilizers: 1 bucket per square meter. Methods for applying fertilizers are different. Lay them in the grooves when digging the earth, or sprinkle them evenly over the surface, and then dig up the soil. Instead of organic fertilizers, mineral fertilizers can be applied. So, in the spring, add nitrogen to the soil during loosening. This is especially true of the area where the beds and the flower garden will be located. For one cubic meter 30-40 grams of nitrogen fertilizers are needed.

Trimming trees and shrubs

In spring, trees and shrubs, as well as climbing plants and roses, are pruned. Remove diseased, withered branches and those that are poorly located. Try to carry out shaping pruning before the beginning of May or a little later. In any case, you need to hurry so that you do not have to cut the tree with already blossoming leaves. coniferous plants free from shelters only in early May, when the soil thaws. During loosening, fertilize with SOTKA Coniferous (50–60 g/m2) or other complex fertilizer.

After digging, mulch tree trunks and other perennials, mostly shrubs. Use sawdust or fresh compost as mulch.

Lawn care

After the snow melts, make sure that there are no puddles on the lawn. Be sure to aerate the soil with special cutting aerators or ordinary garden forks. So, you will improve the access of oxygen to the roots, the absorption of water and nutrients by the soil. Carry out drainage work in waterlogged areas. Be sure to remove last year's foliage from the lawn by combing the lawn with a rake.

Pest control

When the trees are about to bud, treat them for pests. Use one of such chemicals as copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, Abiga-Peak emulsion, colloidal sulfur, Neoron. blue vitriol dilute in the ratio: 100 grams per 10 liters of water. You can use biopreparations. They do not contain chemicals. Combinations are popular. They are used against several types of pests at once. Perform the treatment in the morning or evening when the sun's rays are not too active.