How to feed blueberry seedlings. Blueberry garden: planting, care and reproduction. Video: "Garden blueberries: description and cultivation"

Similar to blueberries, tasty and juicy blueberries are increasingly grown by gardeners in their summer cottages. The plant is extremely demanding, it needs constant care and attention. One of the most important ingredients for success is proper preparation blueberries for winter.

Under a good layer of snow, blueberries are able to withstand frosts down to -25 C. However, in a snowless winter, the maximum allowable temperature threshold decreases and freezing becomes very likely. This is especially true of late-ripening varieties of this plant.

Making your own cover

To avoid such a development of events, blueberries should be additionally insulated for the winter. First of all, the bushes need to be properly prepared for the upcoming winter. Branches should be bent to the ground, and wire arcs should be installed around them.

After the onset of stable frosts, burlap or non-woven materials are placed and fixed on the arcs. It is advisable not to use polyethylene film for these purposes.

On top of the shelter, you can additionally throw branches of spruce branches and sprinkle it well with the first fallen snow. Blueberries must be under this natural white blanket throughout the winter, so periodically check the shelter and, if necessary, add snow.

With the advent of spring, gradually dismantle the winter protection. For any frozen blueberry twigs that you find during inspection, cut off the tips.

Don't worry about blueberry flowers during the subsequent spring cold snaps, as these plants tolerate frost well down to -7 C.

The article will tell you in detail about blueberry varieties, the rules for growing it and caring for the plant.

Blueberry is a plant that is not only beautiful due to the bright blue color of the berries, but also useful, since its fruits and leaves are often used in folk medicine and are used for food. Planting blueberries on your suburban area, you can get an unusual hedge and productive shrubs that give a berry for the warm season.

INTERESTING: Blueberry is a wild plant, taiga shrub. Its cultivation took place not so long ago, only 90-100 years ago. There are many varieties of blueberries and only 10 of them are quite common.

Blueberry varieties:

Bluegold - the most popular variety, which is characterized by fairly large berries of a light blue hue. The flesh of this blueberry is dense, but very fragrant. It is also worth noting the disadvantage of this species - sprawling. Bluegold bushes require constant pruning to look nice and tidy.

Blueberry of the Bluegold variety is considered “early” and the berry ripens already at the beginning of the summer period. One "adult" bush can produce approximately 4 kg of berries in one season. This blueberry tolerates frost well, but does not like heat, and therefore, if not picked on time, the berries quickly wither, and then completely crumble.

Variety "Bluegold"

Bluecrop - Another popular variety, which is often called the "American" blueberry. The berries of this variety are very large and have a rich dark color. Blue colour, the pulp of "Blucrop" is elastic. You can recognize the variety precisely by the way the berry looks - it is a little flattened.

Blue Ray - the most "rich" variety of blueberries, which pleases in spring with lush pink blooms, and in summer with a bountiful harvest. In addition, in autumn, the shrub is covered with fiery foliage. But, this is not all the advantages of "Bluray". The berries of this variety have a rich blue color, which literally strew the entire shrub.

If you have chosen Blueray for your plot, you should also be aware that the excessive fruiting of this shrub plays a cruel joke on the plant and blueberries are often depleted during the harvest season. This variety tolerates winter very well and easily withstands even severe frosts. Blueray berries keep well and do not crack if overripe.

Sort "Bluray"

Bonus - This blueberry variety has the largest berries. This variety of shrubs can be safely classified as tall and it is often found in summer cottages. The harvest of berries pleases with juiciness, aroma, rich sweet taste. From the berry, you can cook a lot of blanks and freeze it fresh. The variety is good because it easily tolerates a harsh winter and pleases with a good harvest in season.

Variety "Bonus"

Herbert - this variety of blueberries is popularly considered the “best” for summer cottages and garden plots. This variety has one clear difference - the height of the shrub, which can reach more than 2 meters.

Along with this, it should be noted that the fruits of Herbert blueberries are not the largest, but they have a pleasant taste, elasticity and density, which does not allow them to crack after overripe. "Herbert" is good because it is well propagated and it easily tolerates harsh winters. The blueberry bush is large and therefore can produce a lot of crop per season - up to 9 kg.

Grade "Herbert"

Jersey - the most “adult” blueberry variety that has survived far from one summer cottage or garden plot. Its popularity lies in the fact that the plant is not at all demanding on the weather and its conditions. Even in an unfavorable year, "Jersey" bears fruit well and pleases with a plentiful harvest.

Another feature of this blueberry is that it easily takes root on any soil. "Jersey" is indifferent to harsh winters and frosts, the shrub has good resistance to viruses and pests. But, at the same time, blueberry berries are not large, have a light blue color and a neat round shape, as well as a mild sweet taste.

Variety "Jersey"

Duke - a variety of this blueberry is common in the West. The shrub is well tolerated by adverse weather and severe frosts, both in winter and in spring. The advantage of the variety is always a stable and large harvest in the middle of summer. The berries are quite elastic and heavy, but very fragrant and sweet. During the ripening period, it is important to fully harvest the crop so that the branches do not break under the weight of the berries.

Variety "Duke" or "Duke"

Northland - if someone owns English language, then the translation of the name of the variety can already tell him a lot (“Northland” - “northern country”). This type of blueberry grows where the frost in winter can reach up to -40-45 degrees. The plant is very hardy and during the season pleases with a plentiful harvest - up to 8 kg of tasty and juicy berries from one bush. Along with this, the berries are not large, but they feel very sweet. Another advantage of the variety is its resistance to various pests. It is worth noting that Northland has a fairly strong root system, but the bush itself is not tall.

Variety "Northland"

Patriot - a feature of the variety is its ability to take root on any type of soil, the main thing is that there is enough moisture in the ground. The shrub is very resistant to various pests. "Patriot" pleases with the beautiful ripening of berries, which in the season from green are filled with colors and first acquire a red tint, then purple and only then blue with a blue tint. The berries of the "Patriot" are sweet, the yield of the bush comes in mid-July.

Variety "Patriot"

Elizabeth - boldly called "the most delicious blueberries." The shrub has very large berries, they are elastic and filled with juicy, as well as sweet pulp. Ripening of berries lasts several weeks per season, that is, not all berries ripen on shrubs at once, but gradually over 2-3 weeks. The main advantage of "Elizabeth" is that the shrub is easy to propagate, the main disadvantage of the variety is intolerance to sandy soil. The soil for this variety should have a sufficient amount of peat.

Variety "Elizabeth"

The difference between blueberries, depending on the variety

a brief description of blueberry varieties with a visual image

What kind of land, what kind of peat is needed for planting blueberries?

To be precise, blueberries are not a “purebred” plant, blueberries are a bush from the blueberry genus, and her family is “lingonberry”. There are two main types of blueberries that you can find in nature:

Swamp Russian blueberry(grows in the forest zone, in soil with peat and "acid reaction"). Such blueberries are almost impossible to cultivate, they are considered "wild" and can be found mainly in coniferous-deciduous forests.
tall american blueberry(as the name implies, it is much higher than swamp blueberries). It is not so resistant to low temperature changes, but, nevertheless, it is easy to propagate it in summer cottages and it always pleases with a bountiful harvest.

IMPORTANT: It does not matter which variety and subspecies of blueberries you choose for your site, the main thing is to properly prepare the soil for the shrub. This will allow you to get a good harvest in season and avoid problems with the root system of the plant.

How to choose the right site and soil for blueberries:

First of all, you should be aware that there should be a lot of sun in the selected area, which should fall on the shrub throughout the day. Lack of sun will affect the yield of blueberries.
Another important condition is to protect the area with blueberries from cold winds and drafts. So, you can achieve good soil warming and less evaporation of moisture. In addition, such protection will be a good prevention against the appearance white plaque on berries.
When choosing a blueberry variety, give preference to those that ripen the earliest and tolerate frost well. They are easier to take root and tolerate any weather conditions.
An important requirement is a drained area, that is, they should not linger on it. surface water. If the soil moisture is too high, you run the risk of “losing” the shrub, because it will simply die.
Do not forget about soil moisture, because blueberries also do not tolerate drought. For the same reason, do not plant the plant next to fruit trees.
Blueberries are demanding on soil acidity, the level of which should be pH = 4-5. The most ideal soil for blueberries is peaty, drained, with a layer of litter of rotted foliage.
Blueberries will not grow and bear fruit in clay soils (they have poor water permeability).

Creating conditions and preparing the soil for blueberries

How to plant garden blueberries with seedlings in the fall?

Planting blueberries by planting cuttings (seedlings) is much easier than, for example, from seeds. Cuttings should be cut in the autumn, when an adult shrub completely gets rid of its foliage. Cuttings should be cut off at the very rhizome, choose those that have a length of 12-15 cm.

INTERESTING: The thicker you choose to cut the cutting, the sooner it will be able to grow its root system.

In order for the seedling to take root faster in the soil, first hold it for a day in a room with a cool temperature (from 1 to 5 degrees). Only after that, transplant the cutting into a specially prepared soil mixture of peat and sand. Put another 1-3 cm of peat on top. Cuttings should be inserted into the soil mixture at an angle.

After the seedling takes root, they should be washed and cut a little with secateurs. This will help the plant to give additional branching of the roots. The seedling should be planted in pre-acidified soil, then gently press the soil and water well.

How to plant garden blueberries with seedlings in spring?

IMPORTANT: It is also possible to cut cuttings from an adult blueberry bush in the spring, but it is important to observe the time frame and choose the period when the plant is experiencing sap flow.

A seedling should be planted in the soil even when the swelling of the kidneys has not occurred. If you purchase a seedling, choose one that was grown in a pot or plastic cup - so you can be sure that its root system is healthy and protected. Before planting in the ground, lower the container with the seedling into the water for 15 minutes. After that, carefully remove the seedling and plant it in the prepared soil, water it.

How to plant blueberry cuttings in the ground?

How to grow blueberries from seeds at home?

Growing blueberries from seeds is a long process that requires patience. In order to collect the seeds, you need ripe berries. They knead with their hands and the contents are taken out of the pulp. Dip the pulp with seeds in water. Half will float, part will remain at the bottom - exactly what is required for landing.

Selected seeds should be dried. You will need a lot of seeds, and therefore it will be necessary to sort out a large number of berries. Of course, it is easier to buy ready-made seeds, but it is not a fact that they will be of high quality and will be able to sprout with 100% probability.

Preparing seeds for planting is a complex and lengthy process. To do this, the seeds are laid out on a layer of moss or wet sand and kept there for 3 months. Of course, you can also sow those seeds that were only removed from the berries, but this is done in the middle of summer. Prepared seeds can be planted in spring.

For planting seeds, a special soil mixture from peat should be prepared. You should not deepen the seeds, just put them on top of the peat, and cover with sand on top by 3 mm. The same sand can be replaced with sawdust, the height of which should be about 5 cm. Planting seeds is best done in a box or cups. From above, they are covered with glass or a layer of transparent polyethylene that allows the sun to pass through.

IMPORTANT: You can remove the glass or film when the first shoots appear. Until the seedlings turn into seedlings, it will take about a month.

blueberry seeds

Caring for garden blueberries at their summer cottage in spring, summer, autumn: tips

blueberry care	Spring	Summer	Autumn
Watering	(1-2 times a week)	Depending on weather conditions (1-2 times a week)	Reduced or completely eliminated.
Mulching	Produced in spring or autumn every year, pine needles or rotted sawdust are used as mulch.
top dressing	Application of complex mineral fertilizers	Reapplication of mineral fertilizers
Fertilizer	Only mineral fertilizers without organic matter
pruning	Should be produced only after the first year after planting. Pruning is done in the spring, before the buds ripen.
Soil acidity test		Acidification using acetic acid 9% (60-70 ml per bucket of water)
Soil moisture	As the soil dries out during the hot season
Spraying leaves with moisture		Allowed in hot weather in the evening
Preparing for winter	Shelter from the cold wind, press the branches to the ground with arcs, cover with canvas from frost.

Proper Care for blueberries

What and what kind of fertilizer to feed garden blueberries in spring, summer, autumn?

Top dressing of blueberries depends on what type it is: low or tall, or marsh. Requirements for fertilizers differ only in one variety - tall, as it is less whimsical. Other species need to be fed only as soil is lost. nutrients namely, spring and autumn.

Blueberries should be fertilized only on the principle of "do no harm". Top dressing is introduced in small quantities, not exceeding the dosage, so as not to harm the plant. The type of fertilizer is selected according to what the blueberry lacks. This can be determined visually.

What is missing:	How it manifests itself in a plant:
*Nitrogen*	Blueberries grow slowly, the leaves turn yellow or even worse - the yellowness covers the entire bush, and then acquires a red tint.
*Phosphorus*	The foliage of the shrub is covered in red, after the redness a purple hue may come. The leaves are slightly "pressed" against the stem.
*Calcium*	The edges of the foliage of the shrub are covered with a yellow tint, salient feature- the sheet is deformed.
*Potassium*	The edges of the leaves and the tips of young shoots begin to die off.
*Magnesium*	The tips of the leaves are starting to turn red.
*Bor*	Shoot growth stops, the leaf may have a slightly blue tint.
*Iron*	The foliage turns yellow and a green "mesh" appears on top
*Sulfur*	The leaves lose color, sometimes acquire a whitish coating.

IMPORTANT: Blueberry is a plant demanding on the quality of fertilizer. In addition, overfeeding can only harm the plant. Before fertilizing, it is important to consider the age of the plant.

When to feed:

First stage: start of sap flow in spring
Second phase: beginning of May
Third stage: the beginning of June

Proper feeding and blueberry fertilizer

Do I need to cover blueberries for the winter?

Blueberries must be prepared for winter period. For this you need to do a number of important events:

Spread the branches of the bushes
Press them to the ground with metal staples (can be strengthened with twine). This is necessary in order to protect the plant from the cold wind.
In frosty weather, blueberries must be wrapped. To do this, it is good to use burlap or canvas, and put spruce branches on top.
The shrub should not be unraveled until the frost is over so that the blueberries do not die.

Pruning blueberries: how to do it right?

Pruning of blueberry bushes should be done twice a year - in autumn and spring. This is necessary in order for the plant to bear fruit for a long time and abundantly. The cut part should be thrown away or burned - it is unusable. The first pruning should be done when a strong "skeleton" is formed in the shrub, as a rule, a plant of 2, 3 and 4 years. Pruning an "adult" plant prolongs its life.

Weak pruning consists in removing only damaged leaves, shoots and branches. You can also cut those stems that no longer germinate. You can reduce the number of branches, especially those that bear fruit, but lie on the ground.

IMPORTANT: If you cut blueberries during the fruiting period, you can save large size berries. Also, in order for the crop to be large and large, branches that are older than 5 years should be cut.

blueberry bush

Propagation of garden blueberries: how does it reproduce?

Blueberries reproduce in several ways:

With the help of seeds. They are dried for 3 months and germinated in acid peat, planted in the ground.
cuttings. They are taken from stiff shoots in spring or autumn. The growth of the cutting should be up to 14-15 cm. They should be germinated in a mixture of sand and peat.
With the help of offsets. To do this, bend the branches and deepen them into the substrate (usually from peat, sand or sawdust). After that, the layers are covered with a film, the next year a young bush should grow from the mother bush.

Garden blueberry transplant: how to transplant?

Repotting a shrub may be a necessity that will allow the plant to bear fruit and not get sick again. The transplant should not be deeper than it was planted before, namely, at the level of 5 cm, when the soil covers the roots. Transplantation can only be done in an adult plant (when the seedling has at least 50 cm of growth).

IMPORTANT: Before you plant a shrub in a new soil, you should completely remove all buds and green shoots. When transplanting, be sure to fertilize the soil.

How to acidify the soil for garden blueberries, how to water blueberries with vinegar?

The soil for blueberries is acidified in several ways:

Sulfur powder. Used for already planted and "adult" shrubs. The powder should be applied to moist soil, you need to do it carefully so as not to damage the root system.
mineral fertilizers. Such substances must contain ammonia or ammonia sulfate. To do this, you can use urea, ammonium sulfate or potassium.
Acidified water. For cooking, you can use any acid: acetic, citric, oxalic. The proportions are simple: 10 ml of acid per 1 liter of water.

What year does blueberries bear fruit after planting, when the berries ripen?

After deepening the seedling into the ground, you should wait for its development and growth. The bush grows stronger and matures for about 5-7 years, depending on how much proper care he received. By this time, fruiting begins, which will intensify every year.

Blueberry diseases and how to treat them?

shrub disease	Cause	How does it manifest	Method of treatment
*Mummification of berries*	Mushroom Monilinia vaccinii-corymbosi	Defeat of young shoots and inflorescences, fruits, death of leaves	Removal of affected areas, mulching
*Gray* *rot*	Mushroom Botrytis cinerea Pers	Brown bloom, turning into white, withering away of fruits and leaves, branches	Bordeaux liquid treatment
*black spot*	Mushroom Phomopsis viticola	Tip dying, brown and black spots on leaves	Processing with substances containing copper
*stem cancer*	Mushroom Godronia cassandrae Peck	The plant becomes covered with ulcers and dies	Salvation is impossible, you can do prevention with nitrogen fertilizers
*powdery mildew*	Mushroom Sphaerotheca mors	The plant acquires grey colour, dries up, dies	Treatment with chemicals
Any abnormal visual manifestations on blueberries: change in leaf pigmentation, fruit drying, rot and spotting can occur for two reasons: The appearance of a disease in a plant His malnutrition (it is necessary to make mineral top dressing). Video: "Garden blueberries: description and cultivation"

Blueberries are called "black pearl, the berry of millionaires", and I would call it "the berry of intellectuals." Blueberries are a demanding crop, but you can make friends with them. The cultivation methods to which we are accustomed are absolutely not applicable to it: manure, ash and occasional watering ... Blueberries will not grow without an acidic, loose and moist substrate.

1. Wrong choice of blueberry seedlings.

Seedlings should be, first of all, healthy, with green, spotless leaves. If you're buying seedlings in early spring or late fall when the foliage has fallen and you can't tell if the leaves are healthy, look at the bark. On the branches, it should be without characteristic spots of burgundy or Brown, which indicates a disease with go-dronia or phomopsis.

If, nevertheless, you happened to purchase seedlings, for example, by mail (when it is impossible to control their health) and something worries you, just cut the diseased branches to healthy tissue. Never buy blueberries with an open root system. The plant should be grown in a pot or container with an acidic substrate.

2. If blueberry root ball do not soak and mash before planting, then your blueberries will not give growth and there will be no harvest.

Therefore, before planting, immerse the pots with plants in a container of water for 3-4 hours to saturate the clod of earth with roots with water. After that, carefully remove the plant from the pot, turn the bush over with its roots up and down (to a depth of 4-5 cm), cut the root ball crosswise or knead it with your hands, starting from the middle of the coma. Blueberries have very thin roots, the Americans call them "angel hair", and in order for them to grow to the sides, we carry out the above operation.

Place the blueberry bush in the hole prepared before planting, spread the roots to the sides and cover with the prepared substrate. Make a hole around the bush and pour until completely saturated with water.

After that, mulch the hole with bark, coniferous litter or straw (8-10 cm layer) to reduce moisture evaporation and keep the substrate loose. In addition, soil bacteria, processing this mulch, form citric and acetic acids, which is so necessary for blueberries.

It is necessary to shed the soil so that not only the soil around the blueberries is wet, but also the clod of earth in which the blueberries grew in a pot is soaked with water (even if you actively stirred it up). Otherwise, this clod of earth, densely braided with roots (it differs in composition from the planting mixture prepared by you) will remain dry in the planting pit!

The soil around the bush will be wet, and the blueberries will suffer from its lack (I had this with a rhododendron, they are with blueberries from the same family: although the soil around was very wet, the bush suffered due to the fact that the root ball was completely dry). Therefore, it is very important to watch the blueberries often until you see that they have begun to actively grow shoots (a summer gain of 50-70 cm indicates that you liked the blueberries).

It is highly recommended to use drip irrigation for the care of blueberries in the garden. When you squeeze the earth in your hand, you should feel moisture, but water should not flow.

3. The substrate for blueberries must be special.

Remove and DO NOT use all selected soil from the planting hole. Because you probably once brought ashes, manure, bird droppings to your garden, and blueberries absolutely cannot stand this! Enclose the excavated recess with boards, logs (this should be done in order to make it easier for you to maintain the necessary soil acidity and moisture) and fill it with the previously prepared substrate from riding red peat, coniferous litter, bark, sand, old sawdust.

Take half a bag of sugar for each component, it should be enough for one bush. On light soils, where there is no likelihood of stagnant water, a hole is dug 40-50 cm deep and 70-80 cm wide.

On heavy loamy soils, the pits are made wider and shallower (25-30 cm) and bushes are planted on a small hill (do not forget to fence and mulch after planting). Low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 0.8-1 m from each other, medium and vigorous - at a distance of 1.2-1.5 m.

On the plantation in our farm, we do not use mineral fertilizers, but the right agricultural technology can successfully replace them.

4. Wrong choice of planting blueberries.

Blueberries love the sun and dislike the wind. The place should be open and sunny. To protect against the wind from the north side, you can offer a fence, a screen made of agrofabric or hedge. A fence 1 m high breaks the wind into 10 m, that is, behind a fence 1 m high there will be no strong wind, which manages to erase the bark on the branches, where the infection then easily gets. Ripening berries lose their delicious blue bloom due to the wind and are poorly stored.

5. Incorrect soil acidity for blueberries.

For blueberries, it should be between pH 4 and 5.5. This is a very important indicator, otherwise the bushes will not grow well and bear fruit. Usually the acidity of the soil on our acres is pH 6-7, it is possible to acidify the soil to a better value with colloidal sulfur, which is sold in garden stores. 1-2 tbsp. spoons around the bush will be enough. Soil bacteria oxidize sulfur, resulting in the formation of sulfuric acid which causes a decrease in pH. Usually sulfur is applied in the spring, but for a good result, the soil must be both moist and well aerated. Further acidify the soil (in case blueberries do not give good (50-70 cm) growths and the foliage has a light green tint), preferably with oxalic acid - 0.5 teaspoon per 1 bucket (10 l) of water.

6. Blueberries don't like being crowded.

The distance between the bushes should be at least 1 m, so that each berry has enough sun and heat.

Planting and caring for blueberries - personal experience

My first blueberry planting experience was unsuccessful. After analyzing the mistakes, I discovered this culture in a new way.

The soil must be acidic. At first, the mixture was prepared using peat from nearby swamps. But the forest land turned out to be ideal (I’m renting upper layer), which grows wild blueberries.

The farmer from whom I bought the first seedlings did not explain that in a 2-year-old plant from a container, when planting, the roots need to be spread in the soil! Otherwise, they grow towards each other, intertwined - and after a few years the plant dies.

In my area, light loam.

Blueberries need a breathable substrate. This is exactly what she filled the landing pits, but ... did not protect their walls. Over time, due to rains, watering, heavy soil ended up in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root system. As a result, due to a lack of oxygen, the processes of respiration and metabolism are disrupted, the roots rot and die. Now I enclose the walls of the landing pit with roofing felt, metal plates, and slate.

After planting, it is important to mulch the soil under the bushes with sawdust - preferably pine (a layer of 10-15 cm). They retain moisture well Sun rays- and the root system does not overheat during the heat (+ 25 ... + 30 degrees). .

Roots garden blueberries are sensitive to chlorine, so chlorine-containing fertilizers are not suitable for the crop! I use complex mineral fertilizer for blueberries (I bring in spring and early summer, but no later than mid-June).

Larvae are very harmful to blueberry roots Maybug. When I enclose the walls of the planting pit, I leave 10 cm high sides above the soil level. The pest does not lay eggs in such “wells” with sawdust.

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When growing fruit and berry bushes in a summer cottage, some residents of the middle lane prefer blueberries. Another, less common name is gonobobel. In the wild, the shrub grows in most of the northern hemisphere. Despite the fact that the plant seems unpretentious, actively growing on swampy soils, in the tundra, as well as on the slopes of the mountains, in the garden under the strict care of summer residents, blueberries often refuse to grow. Garden blueberries - planting and caring for them will require a lot of skill and patience. Only having knowledge of the technique of growing shrubs, you can achieve good growth and further fruiting.

How to plant blueberries in the garden?

Blueberries are a capricious plant, so one of the spring days is chosen for planting a seedling. It is believed that over the summer the bush is able to gain strength and grow stronger, such seedlings tolerate winter frosts much better. The plant should be purchased in a specialized nursery, in appearance it should be strong and healthy. Seedlings at the age of 2 years and with a closed root system are the most successful choice. They can be planted by transshipment without disturbing the coma of the earth, in addition, young specimens are much more likely to take root in a new place than shrubs aged 3–4 years.

Variety selection

If the shrub has taken root on the site, then it will grow for a long time, some specimens can grow up to 90 years. With proper planting and care, blueberries begin to bear fruit already in the fourth year, they have good immunity and rarely suffer from diseases and pests. There are a lot of species and varieties of plants, the most popular when grown on garden plots V middle lane Russia:

Blueberry tall Bluecrop - this variety is recommended for growing berries on an industrial scale, up to 9 kg of crop can be harvested from one bush;
Blueberry tall Nelson - large berries, the plant has good frost resistance;
Blueberry marsh variety "Blue placer" - the taste of berries is sour, fell in love with summer residents because of their unpretentiousness.

Site selection, soil preparation

For growing blueberries, the plot should be selected sunny, protected from gusts of cold wind and drafts. Surrounded by plantings, there should not be other shrubs or tall trees. acidic soils best suited for planting blueberries, caring for it does not require close attention, under favorable conditions, the shrub will willingly grow and bear fruit. The optimal pH is 4–5.5. If the site has heavy loamy soil, it is diluted with peat (top layer) or a substrate from a pine forest, as well as river sand, maintaining a ratio of 3: 1. Poor and depleted soils are fertilized using mineral compounds that contain all the necessary trace elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. After fertilizing, the bed is carefully dug up and left in this form until the day of planting.

planting blueberries

Proper planting of blueberries and caring for them in the future will determine how comfortable the shrub will feel in a new place. Landing pits are made in the size of 100x100x60 cm, where 60 cm is the depth. The root system of the plant develops horizontally, so the hole should be wide, but moderately deep. At the bottom of the pit, drainage from broken bricks, crushed stone or other material is necessarily laid. In group plantings, you should correctly determine the distance, tall plants are planted at a distance of 2 meters, and undersized plants - 1 m.

Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted quickly enough by placing a clod of earth extracted from the container in the hole. After that, the plant is sprinkled, watered abundantly and mulched. Sawdust, shavings or softwood chips are best suited as mulch. The layer of material should be 7-10 cm. Special attention should be paid to specimens with an open root system: carefully straighten the roots and sprinkle with soil, deepen the root collar by 3 cm.

Features of blueberry care

After planting blueberries, caring for them is as follows: watering, mulching the soil, fertilizing, pruning and shelter for the winter.

Watering blueberries

Proper hydration plays a critical role in getting good harvest. Berries need enough moisture to ripen, especially in July and September, when the weather is often dry. However, stagnation of water in the roots can lead to the death of the plant, so it is important for the gardener to observe the measure. It is enough to carry out the procedure 2 times a week, dividing the total amount of water into 2 parts. The first time the shrub should be moistened early in the morning, and the second time after 19.00 hours. In just a day, two garden buckets of water should be used up.

On especially hot and dry days, spraying from a spray bottle will also benefit, however, the procedure should be carried out after 17.00 hours so that the leaves do not get burned from the sun's rays. It is recommended to update the mulch layer annually or at least once every 2 years. Despite the mulching material, blueberries need regular loosening of the soil, good aeration is important for the root system. The procedure should be carried out carefully and not very often, otherwise the topsoil will dry out.

Top dressing

Healthy and fruitful blueberries - planting and caring for it will not do without additional dressings. It is important for the gardener to know that organics are contraindicated for blueberries both at the stage of preparing the planting pit and in the future. It should be excluded: cow and horse manure, bird droppings. But a variety of mineral-containing compounds will only benefit. It is recommended to use the following substances:

ammonium sulfate,
potassium sulfate,
superphosphate,
magnesium sulfate,
zinc sulfate.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in 3 stages, adhering to the following scheme:

March or the first half of April - 90 g,
the first week of May - 70 g,
first week of June - 60

Superphosphate is used 2 times a year, other substances - 1 time per year, choosing the dosage recommended by the instructions.

blueberry pruning

In the second year after planting, when caring for blueberries, it is important to form the skeletal branches of the shrub. This will not only give the plant nice shape, but will also have a positive effect on fruiting. In early spring, even before the appearance of the kidneys, 4-6 powerful branches are selected and left. All weak and damaged shoots are cut out, the basal shoots are removed. In the future, they look so that the bushes do not grow and, if necessary, cut off old, unviable branches.

Harvesting and sheltering blueberry bushes for the winter

In the fall, blueberries begin to bear fruit; berries can be picked every 5-7 days. The reference point will be not only the bluish color of the fruit, but also the softness of the skin. If the berries are hard to the touch, harvesting should be delayed, the fruits still need time to fill up and become sweeter.

If the winter is expected to be frosty (below -25 ° C), but with little snow, the bushes are less winter-hardy varieties needs to be covered. To do this, the branches are carefully bent to the ground and fixed, and burlap and spruce branches are thrown on top. As soon as the first real snow falls, a snowdrift can be thrown over the shelter.